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はじめに

iMacの内部パーツにアクセスするには、LCDを取り出さなければなりません。

    • 作業を始める前に、iMacの電源を切り、画像のように本体を倒して、柔らかい表面上に載せてください。

    • ガラスパネルの上部コーナーの2箇所に吸盤カップを取り付けます。

    • iFixitが販売している吸盤カップを取り付けるには、まず吸盤カップの持ち手ハンドルをガラスパネルの表面に対して水平になるように上げてください。ガラスに吸盤カップを軽く装着して、もう一方のハンドルも平行になるように上げてください。

    • 吸盤カップがうまく装着しない場合は、ガラスパネルと吸盤カップを中性洗剤などで綺麗に拭き取ってください。

    imac 2544 2.5 core i5 i touched the motherboard to supply and it spark now it is not powering

    please tell me the directions

    thanks witting for answering .

    tahir - 返信

    Im sorry to say, If it sparked when you touched it your motherboard s now fried. You need a new one.

    Robert Wacker -

    Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

    kctipton - 返信

    Success replacing the stock ST31000528AS with a STBD3000100 (Dead 1TB to new 3TB, both Seagate). First try. Using another Mac and a quality Firewire 800 cable, I formatted it using Target Disk mode, 2 partitions (defaults, except I made the first one bigger than the second). To the second, smaller one, I copied a bootable Install OS X Mavericks partition. Tried to boot. It booted, and I installed; nary a glitch. (Running the Installer over Firewire would have been faster, but I didn't want to reboot this machine.)

    See part 2 below...

    Matthew Elvey - 返信

    (Part 2:)

    I SKIPPED steps 6, 7 AND 8! Instead, after doing Step 5, I noticed I then had enough room and cable length to access the screws in Step 11 if I lifted the LCD up an inch or so, rotated it about 20-30 degrees clockwise and moved it a couple inches toward the base, and put it down. After removing them (Step 11), I propped up the LCD (with a spare spudger) and had enough room to do Steps 12, 13, and 14 without much difficulty. Felt safer/less work and risk than not skipping steps 6-8. No risk of the damage Ersan and Michael caused performing Step 7!

    Matthew Elvey -

    I just edited that step to add a note about the shortcut.

    Matthew Elvey -

    What the ???

    Geoff Wacker has REJECTED my edit: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/history/ste...

    I wonder why. What's the deal, Geoff? I mean I'd understand if I suggested folks didn't need the suction cups, as that could cut into iFixit's income stream, but what's wrong with suggesting that a few steps aren't needed? It worked for me; the EMC 2389 I fixed is humming along with a new 3TB HD I installed while skipping those steps.

    Matthew Elvey -

    I did not have to remove a single cable! After undoing the torx screws from the sides, I was able to rotate the LCD out of the way enough to reach all the screws holding in the ODD bracket. One of them was a bit challenging to get to, but I never felt that I was risking the cables by leaving them connected. Also, it wasn't totally clear, but you have to actually remove the ODD itself from the ODD bracket - 4 torx screws. The SDD mounts into the hard drive enclosure, then the enclosure is screwed into the bracket. Those holes (enclosure <-> Bracket) did not line up correctly for me, and I had to go with only three of them connected in the end. Seems to work fine.

    cdansmith1 - 返信

    Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

    MaximBorzov - 返信

    You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

    Deepsurvival - 返信

    That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

    Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

    max damage -

    Hello, I just need to replace a slightly cracked screen on my iMac. Where is it best to place the suction cups? Thanks in advance

    michelemiller0 - 返信

    No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

    Nikolas Lintulaakso - 返信

    Nails worked for me too

    Rob Dale - 返信

    Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

    Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

    osienna - 返信

    I have an odd question -- I want to remove the polarizer from the LCD. With some monitors this is trivial, others not so much. My question is whether it is bonded to the Liquid crystal, or whether it's loose, or cutting it with a razor blade would remove it. Obviously I'd like to know before I go to the trouble of dismantling the thing... Thanks. Paul

    Paul Kwiat - 返信

    I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well

    jc3Dcx - 返信

    I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!

    3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.

    Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

    I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.

    Good luck!

    ivan birks - 返信

    I did it several times with one suction cup at the end of a kitchen brush. Once with the blade of a swiss army knive, also ok. And i’m pretty sure it works with fingernails too

    Tai - 返信

    Fingernails are all you need to free the glass from its magnetic hold. If you don’t have them, slip something thin and plastic, like a spudger, at a top corner.

    Max Powers - 返信

    Minha dúvida é a seguinte: após o técnico trocar o HD do meu iMac de 21,5 polegadas, a câmera parou de funcionar. Seria por causa da troca do HD? Tem solução?

    Claudio - 返信

    Creio que o cabo da camera não foi plugado ou deu mau contato… ou até danificado.

    glecyo@gmail.com

    glecyo medeiros -

    I can’t get my glass to budge. I’m replacing a cracked one and now it’s about to shatter.

    jamboxmitchell - 返信

  1. ゆっくりとガラスパネルをLCD表面に垂直になるように持ち上げて、スチール製のマウントピン ガラスパネルをiMacの底側端から引き抜き、丁寧に脇に置いてください。
    • ゆっくりとガラスパネルをLCD表面に垂直になるように持ち上げて、スチール製のマウントピン

    • ガラスパネルをiMacの底側端から引き抜き、丁寧に脇に置いてください。

    • 再組み立ての際には、ガラスパネルの内側やLCD表面を綺麗に拭いてください。デバイスの電源を入れると、ほこりや指紋が内部に閉じ込められ、視界が遮られてしまうことがあります。

    What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

    Steve Speirs - 返信

    Try your best not touch it in the first place

    Brian -

  2. アウターケースからディスプレイを固定している8 mm T10トルクスネジを8本外します。 最後の2枚の画像はディスプレイ両側の詳細です。 最後の2枚の画像はディスプレイ両側の詳細です。
    • アウターケースからディスプレイを固定している8 mm T10トルクスネジを8本外します。

    • 最後の2枚の画像はディスプレイ両側の詳細です。

    On reassembly, it is REALLY HARD to align those screws, because of the field of the strong magnets that hold the glass cover on. I'm sure there's a trick to it, but I'd love to know what it is for future reference.

    Peter Shenkin - 返信

    I used needlenose pliers and the T10 to align the screw into the hole. Otherwise the screw keeps jumping to the magnet. And patience with this NON-CAPTIVE screw design (c’mon Apple, even **I** came up with that, and I’m an idiot!)

    finnik2d - 返信

    A short piece of small gauge vinyl tubing that fits tightly over the head of the T-10 driver leaving an 8th of an inch or so in which to insert the screw to engage the head will hold the screw long enough to keep it away from the magnet and get it going in the hole.

    Paul Boudreau - 返信

    I use non magnetic SS curved tip tweezers together with a magnetized #10 torx bit both to remove and reinstall the screws. You can magnetize and demagnetize the bit using the strong magnets on the LCD frame. Don't worry too much during removal, you can recover the screw. But loath the moment you drop the last screw during reassembly. For that reason, reinstall the screws near the magnets and hardest to get to first.

    Michael Ben-Yehuda - 返信

  3. アウターケースからディスプレイ上部端をわずかに持ち上げます。
    • アウターケースからディスプレイ上部端をわずかに持ち上げます。

    • あまり高く持ち上げすぎないでください。ロジックボードとディスプレイは数本のケーブルで繋がったままです。

    When putting the display back I have resistance from the foam elements (on the top end where the iSight is) and have to press down really hard. Is that okay?

    gm.konsortium - 返信

    Well, stupid me put the 3.5" to 2.5" cage the wrong side up. ;)

    gm.konsortium - 返信

    Standing the imac upright on its stand really helps this step! Laying it falt makes getting under the panel a real hassle.

    finnik2d - 返信

  4. iMacの左上隅付近にあるLEDドライバボードのソケットから垂直の同期リボンケーブルを引き出します。 垂直の同期リボンケーブル端はZIFになっていますが、ソケットにはロックや固定フラップが付いていません。 ケーブルをソケットからiMacのオプティカルドライブ側に引き抜いて、LEDドライバーボードから外します。 垂直の同期リボンケーブル端はZIFになっていますが、ソケットにはロックや固定フラップが付いていません。 ケーブルをソケットからiMacのオプティカルドライブ側に引き抜いて、LEDドライバーボードから外します。
    • iMacの左上隅付近にあるLEDドライバボードのソケットから垂直の同期リボンケーブルを引き出します。

    • 垂直の同期リボンケーブル端はZIFになっていますが、ソケットにはロックや固定フラップが付いていません。 ケーブルをソケットからiMacのオプティカルドライブ側に引き抜いて、LEDドライバーボードから外します。

    The vertical sync cable was snug initially and now is loose. I checked and the cable is intact. Has anyone had experience with making it fit better?

    Rajan - 返信

    Scotch tape on the upper side and sliding this in helped to secure the cable.

    Rajan - 返信

    Reassembly of this part was the closest I came to disaster on this project. I tried inserting the connector a few times without success, and when I looked it it the leads, which are fragile, were all mangled. I smoothed them out by hand as best I could and and reinserted, very carefully this time. The trick is that the tip of the connector should be pointed somewhat upwards when reconnecting.

    I was pretty sure that when I was done, I would reboot but have no display; but fortunately, everything worked.

    Peter Shenkin - 返信

    Hi, I still have a question. What is the "Job" of the vertical sync ribbon cable. Thanks

    Lutz Blum - 返信

    So let’s say someone wanted to suck some of the dust off the back of the display before reassembly. Let’s just say that. Someone would likely suck this forsaken cable up into the vacuum tube then, wouldn’t they? They might. And if it were to oscillate in a rushing torrent of air, it might get munged? It might.

    Here’s how you overcome such a disaster:

    1) cut the end fresh, as close to the end as you can while cutting off any frayed end.

    2) abrade the end gently, repeatedly, along the connector wire axis. I used emory paper. Your goal is to expose the copper conductors in the last 1/4” of the fragile evil wire.

    3) Tape a small stiff cardstock to the back of the end of the connector. This is essential to press the connector wires into the connector.

    4) Gently insert, taking special caution to not peel the copper off of the connector.

    5) Tape that connector down deftly, without letting it move a millimeter and securing it for all time.

    sydnius - 返信

    I just leave it connected. After disconnecting the other cables, there is enough slack to lay the display on its backside if you’re working on a flat surface.

    Duane Johnson - 返信

    I have replaced the hdd in this model about 8-10 times - I have never had to disconnect any cables other than the sata and temp sensor cables on the hdd. I just prop the lcd up with an egg carton (or something about 3 inches high that is soft and light) and access the hdd that way. The only thing I ever have trouble with are is putting the LCD screws back in around the magnets - but I have pretty much perfected that with a sissor/ tweezer tool.

    Suzanne Levy - 返信

    Could you put up some photos of this procedure - egg carton etc…

    Peter Barnett -

    Any ideas where to replace this cable?

    Danny Shaw - 返信

  5. LEDバックライト電源ケーブルをLEDドライバボードから接続を外すため、ディスプレイをアウターケースから外します。 コネクタをソケットから引き離しながら(iMacの下端に向かって)ロック機構を押し下げて、LEDバックライト電源ケーブルの接続を外します。 コネクタをソケットから引き離しながら(iMacの下端に向かって)ロック機構を押し下げて、LEDバックライト電源ケーブルの接続を外します。
    • LEDバックライト電源ケーブルをLEDドライバボードから接続を外すため、ディスプレイをアウターケースから外します。

    • コネクタをソケットから引き離しながら(iMacの下端に向かって)ロック機構を押し下げて、LEDバックライト電源ケーブルの接続を外します。

    I found it easier to very slightly lift the front edge of the black connector with a small spudger, then gently pulling away towards the bottom of the iMac. Pressing felt a little crude and didn’t work for me.

    Antonio Caira - 返信

  6. ロジックボード上のソケットからディスプレイデーターケーブルコネクタの接続を外すため、2つのコネクタケーブルのアーム両側を掴みます。
    • ロジックボード上のソケットからディスプレイデーターケーブルコネクタの接続を外すため、2つのコネクタケーブルのアーム両側を掴みます。

    • ディスプレイデータケーブルのコネクタを、ロジックボードのソケットから引き抜きます。

    • このケーブルは簡単にダメージが入ってしまうため、ケーブルの接続を外す時、再接続するときはご注意ください。

    in Step 7, my connector (new 21.5 iMac - Dec 2010) was not attached that way and just came of easily.

    erin - 返信

    Aperte as duas exibição do conector do cabo de dados braços juntos para desbloqueá-lo de seu soquete na placa lógica.

    Darlan Perira da Silva - 返信

    I accidently broke the data cable socket on step 7. Any advice on what i should do?

    Sam Tang - 返信

    I feel pretty silly. I spent wayyyy too long trying to get these cables disconnected. Happy I found this guide; hopefully, I won't struggle with such simple things since you provide pretty good details! Thanks.

    J.w. - 返信

    Pas beaucoup de place pour déconnecter ce cable ! En essayant d'ouvrir trop l'écran pour passer mes "grosses mains" j'ai cossé le connecteur : je suis dans le caca :-( (et pourtant j'en fait des démontages !) Alors ATTENTION !!!

    divers - 返信

    Il vaut mieux déconnecter la partie du côté écran en premier (sous l'autocollant noir)

    divers - 返信

    Je suis d’accord. C’est plus facile. Merci mon ami

    Antonio Caira -

  7. ロジックボード上のソケットからLCDサーマルセンサケーブルのコネクタを外します。
    • ロジックボード上のソケットからLCDサーマルセンサケーブルのコネクタを外します。

    • 作業完了後に、ファンがフルスピードで回転している場合は、この接続またはハードドライブのサーマルセンサーケーブルを点検してください。

    This is important regarding the fan running full speed

    http://blog.macsales.com/19617-diagnosin...

    tobykirkland - 返信

    Is there a way to test the power supply to see if it's dead?

    professorminh - 返信

    Achtung! Dieser Stecker kann sehr fest sitzen, hier hilft ein guter Fingernagel um den Stecker abwechselnd rechts und links zu Hebeln

    bluesoundsmusic - 返信

  8. iMacの上部端に向けて、ディスプレイを丁寧に引き抜いてください。そしてアウターケースから持ち上げて取り出します。作業中、ケーブルが引っかかっていないか確認してください。
    • iMacの上部端に向けて、ディスプレイを丁寧に引き抜いてください。そしてアウターケースから持ち上げて取り出します。作業中、ケーブルが引っかかっていないか確認してください。

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

30 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

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Andrew Bookholt

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618のガイドは作成済み

i have a problem with my pc.

when i turn on my computer couple i had lot of times the LCD turned off.

is the time to change it? The boot and the system runs ok... what's the problem?

need help guys!

Massimiliano Sartorello - 返信

good morning everyone. I have a problem with my iMac. unfortunately the screen starts to look with horizontal stripes. after verifying that it is not by the graphics card, I bought a led a different model and some connectors are different. He led riding my iMac is lm215wf3 (sl) (a1) and I bought by mistake lm215wf3 (sd) (a1). several problems. the temperature sensor input is different, and led backlightsync also is different.

Borja - 返信

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