はじめに

Changing the top case will also give you a new trackpad.

Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
  • Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

  • Lift the battery out of the computer.

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Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.
  • Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.

  • If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw 180 degrees in either direction and try again.

  • Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.

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  • If the computer does not have an Airport card installed, skip the next two steps.

  • Push the wire clasp toward the Airport card and pull it up to free it from the RAM shield.

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  • Grasp the clear plastic tab on the Airport card and pull toward the right.

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  • Hold the Airport card in one hand and use your other hand to remove the antenna cable.

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  • Remove the two 2.5 mm Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.

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  • Grasp the metal bracket on top of the RAM shield and pull upward to remove the shield.

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  • Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.

Note: The cable may have adhesive holding it to a shield. Pull in an upward direction gently, with an evenly distributed force across the cable until it comes loose from the shield.

gsp - 返信

I feel this step needs clarification: Are just lifting the cable away from the shield, or are we removing the cable entirely?

David Maag - 返信

  • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

Don’t we need to remove the screws before the next step?

David - 返信

  • Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound out port.

isn’t this step out of order? It belongs much later I think

panakabear - 返信

  • Remove the three 5.2 mm newly-revealed Phillips screws.

Screw sizes are 2.5mm x 6mm flat low profile head or cheese head.

XnriquX - 返信

this should be after step 12 no?

panakabear - 返信

  • Use a pin (or anything you like) to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

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  • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.

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  • Remove the one 10 mm and two 20 mm hex screws using a 2mm hex. Alternatively, a T8 Torx screwdriver key will do.

FYI, the two screws at the top of this picture are longer than the one in the middle of the case. Don't mix them up!

JuciusMaximus - 返信

Top screws are 20 mm, middle one is 10 mm. These have thread lock.

commenter - 返信

The 3 long screws (not the ones under the rubber feet) are 2.5mm x 20mm metric. Head style is cheese head. i found replacements for these at ACE hardware, for about $0.08 each in a flat head drive style which IMO are better than the hex style that can easily be stripped.

XnriquX - 返信

I'm using a T9 here as my T8 is way too small.

MN73 - 返信

  • Remove the two 4.2 mm Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.

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  • Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.

  • Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.

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  • There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

If your iBook's been opened many times (Like mine has been) then this piece may be broken.

If it's cracked down the middle or a little off, what you'll want to do is use your bent paperclip from a few steps later (or another screwdriver) and pull the second piece away from the shell when you start lifting. should pull right out

Christian Wacker - 返信

  • Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

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  • Once the front and sides of the lower case are free, turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free (it may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down).

You might wanna use your spudger to pry up those back tabs to. You might break the bottom case just wiggling around waiting for it to pop loose.

neato - 返信

The orange screw on my machine has no head on it and is simply a flat surface. There is no way to remove it and consequently I completely trashed my unit attempting to remove the top cover.

There went a few bucks all for nothing as I had a spare HD sitting here ready to put in!

Calum - 返信

Be aware that you may need to use a spudger at the front of the computer to separate the metal shield from the bottom case.

michael leahy - 返信

  • Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.

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  • Remove the following 4 screws on the bottom of the computer:

    • Two 3 mm Phillips from the left side of the computer.

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips near the latch mechanism (this screw may be missing in 800 MHz iBooks)

    • One 14.2 mm Phillips near the front, right corner.

This photo is a little confusing. The shield should be off, which would show the correct positions of the yellow and orange screws. (The orange circle is in the wrong place.) Furthermore, these screws don't need to be removed at this stage (they hold the logic board to the frame). And finally, on my 800 MHz machine, BOTH these screws are 6 mm in length.

commenter - 返信

Quote from commenter:

This photo is a little confusing. The shield should be off, which would show the correct positions of the yellow and orange screws. (The orange circle is in the wrong place.) Furthermore, these screws don't need to be removed at this stage (they hold the logic board to the frame). And finally, on my 800 MHz machine, BOTH these screws are 6 mm in length.

The two red screws and the orange screw have to be removed (iBook G3 600 MHz).

florguh - 返信

Quote from Rolf Hug:

The two red screws and the orange screw have to be removed (iBook G3 600 MHz).

As well the yellow screw has to be removed according to description

florguh - 返信

  • Use a straightened paperclip to open the optical drive tray.

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  • Pull the optical drive out just enough so that you can access and remove a Phillips screw near the battery compartment.

this is the most difficult part in the whole repair

karel b - 返信

i think that we can leave that one out on re-assembly

Chris Green - 返信

It's quite hard to get to the screw and loosen it.

florguh - 返信

If you fully extend the tray it's fairly easy to get to the screw by going inside the rails. And grab it with tweezers.

Ty Leavitt - 返信

When re-installing use something sticky on your screwdriver to hold the screw in place, or it's never going in. The sleep magnet is nasty at grabbing your screw and pulling it away. (Doesn't hurt to have something sticky on it for taking it out too...)

Christian Wacker - 返信

There is no way to go in STRAIGHT without risking to damage the tray! The screw head is just too far off to the left and is covered by the tray. So I opened completely the tray and I could barely remove it from inside the try guide.

taf - 返信

Hey Steve; My advice would be to NEVER replace a tray drive with a slot drive! In my-not-very-humble opinion, slot drives are garbage, and are unfit to be used in ANY Mac computer.

dentoni - 返信

If you're doing this type of work, what's wonderful is to have a set of technicians magnetic drivers. I have a set of twelve that are about 6"long, and very skinny. Phillips 1, 0, 00, & 000 . . . Torx 6, 7, 8, 9, & 10 . . . and slotted 5/64", 3/32", & 1/8". I wish I could remember where I got them, but you could probably Google it. One of the smaller magnetic Phillips was perfect for removal AND replacing this screw. A word of CAUTION, though . . . probably best to keep any magnetic tools away from sensitive components on the PC board.

Tom - 返信

  • Pull the optical drive a bit more so that you can access and remove a second Phillips screw near the power receptacle.

This one is tiniest (shortist) so far

Rufleyboy - 返信

Be sure when installing a slot drive to replace these screws before installing the drive!!

steve - 返信

  • Turn over the computer and open it.

  • Use tweezers (or a refrigerator magnet) to remove the magnet covering a Phillips screw near the middle of the computer.

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  • Remove the following 4 screws on the edges of the keyboard area.

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips underneath where the magnet was.

    • Three 6 mm Phillips in plastic depressions.

the three 6mm screws may require more torque than previous screws.

tir38 - 返信

  • Peel up the foil tape covering the speaker cable near the ports.

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  • This is a diagram of the trackpad ribbon clamp connector you will disconnect in the next step.

  • 1) With your fingernails, grasp the locking bar on either side and pull up a small amount (about 1/16" or 2 mm).

  • 2) After disengaging the locking bar, slide the cable out of the connector.

tweezers work better than fingernails for this step.

tir38 - 返信

  • Loosen the trackpad connector by pulling the top piece up slightly, freeing the trackpad ribbon.

  • Slide the orange trackpad ribbon out of the connector.

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  • Before you can jerk the upper case off with joy, you must disconnect both the blue and white power cable and red and black speaker cable as described in the next steps.

  • Lift the upper case from the left side and use your other hand to pull out the right side in order to clear the power receptacle.

  • There may be a thin metal bar fastened to the upper case by the two screws on either side of the optical drive. This bar provides rigidity around the optical drive; don't forget it when reassembling.

I had one (800MHz), that on the B&W power cable, it was so tight that it pulled the socket from the PC board. Never had that happen before, although the potential exists on many of them. Needless to say, that machine is now allocated as a parts unit. What I found is the safest way, and really not all that much trouble, is the remove the 5 screws, peel back the tape, and remove the speaker/switch units from the top cover. Worked for me, and avoided the risk mentioned above.

Tom - 返信

  • The connectors at the ends of the cables are attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.

  • Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connector from its socket. Make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

blue up and white down

edosso - 返信

Not unless you have to! Most parts can be removed with this left in. Don't try pulling on it unless you have to, it can easily break the logic board. Just tilt the upper case up to lean it on the display.

QEII Student IT - 返信

Much easier if you do this after Step 37.

Benn Snyder - 返信

when putting back the connectors I bent the bloody pins, do it when you are relaxed............

bgfra - 返信

Quote from bgfra:

when putting back the connectors I bent the bloody pins, do it when you are relaxed............

Can easily repair them using a watch repair magnifier (3 euros)

bgfra - 返信

It is alot easier to get at after you pull the speaker cable out. Use something small to pop it out of place though, I broke my extra spare being a little too hasty.

Christian Wacker - 返信

This connector has a small catch on the right. slipping a sharp object (eg: pin) between the connector and it holder will release the catch. The connector should now come off easily.

Lawrence Lau - 返信

I put this comment in the last step, but perhaps it should go here as well:

I had one (800MHz), that on the B&W power cable, it was so tight that it pulled the socket from the PC board. Never had that happen before, although the potential exists on many of them. Needless to say, that machine is now allocated as a parts unit. What I found is the safest way, and really not all that much trouble, is the remove the 5 screws, peel back the tape, and remove the speaker/switch units from the top cover. Worked for me, and avoided the risk mentioned above.

Tom - 返信

  • Lift the upper case off completely and disconnect the red and black speaker cable from the logic board. As before, make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

There is a magnet covering a screw to the left of the serial number located in the upper center of the upper case. Remove the magnet, smooth,round and small, and loosen (doesn't need to come out) the screw to remove the upper case. Proceed to disconnecting the speaker and power cables. NOTE: this magnet is not the same one indicated in step image 33.

Marsha - 返信

  • There is a magnet that allows the computer to detect when the laptop is closed. If this magnet is not present your computer will not automatically go to sleep. Be sure the magnet is in the position indicated.

The DC board can be removed now. Disconnect the cable from the DC board. There is enough play to lift the board out. There is no need to remove the top shield.

tyler - 返信

まとめ

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

14 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

添付文書

iRobot

メンバー登録日: 2009年09月24日

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