はじめに

Use this guide to replace your inverter/AirPort cables.

Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
  • Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

  • Lift the battery out of the computer.

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Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.
  • Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.

  • If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw 180 degrees in either direction and try again.

  • Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.

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  • If the computer does not have an Airport card installed, skip the next two steps.

  • Push the wire clasp toward the Airport card and pull it up to free it from the RAM shield.

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  • Grasp the clear plastic tab on the Airport card and pull toward the right.

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  • Hold the Airport card in one hand and use your other hand to remove the antenna cable.

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  • Remove the two 2.5 mm Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.

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  • Grasp the metal bracket on top of the RAM shield and pull upward to remove the shield.

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  • Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.

Note: The cable may have adhesive holding it to a shield. Pull in an upward direction gently, with an evenly distributed force across the cable until it comes loose from the shield.

gsp - 返信

I feel this step needs clarification: Are just lifting the cable away from the shield, or are we removing the cable entirely?

David Maag - 返信

  • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

Don’t we need to remove the screws before the next step?

David - 返信

  • Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound out port.

isn’t this step out of order? It belongs much later I think

panakabear - 返信

  • Remove the three 5.2 mm newly-revealed Phillips screws.

Screw sizes are 2.5mm x 6mm flat low profile head or cheese head.

XnriquX - 返信

this should be after step 12 no?

panakabear - 返信

  • Use a pin (or anything you like) to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

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  • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.

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  • Remove the one 10 mm and two 20 mm hex screws using a 2mm hex. Alternatively, a T8 Torx screwdriver key will do.

FYI, the two screws at the top of this picture are longer than the one in the middle of the case. Don't mix them up!

JuciusMaximus - 返信

Top screws are 20 mm, middle one is 10 mm. These have thread lock.

commenter - 返信

The 3 long screws (not the ones under the rubber feet) are 2.5mm x 20mm metric. Head style is cheese head. i found replacements for these at ACE hardware, for about $0.08 each in a flat head drive style which IMO are better than the hex style that can easily be stripped.

XnriquX - 返信

I'm using a T9 here as my T8 is way too small.

MN73 - 返信

  • Remove the two 4.2 mm Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.

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  • Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.

  • Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.

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  • There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

If your iBook's been opened many times (Like mine has been) then this piece may be broken.

If it's cracked down the middle or a little off, what you'll want to do is use your bent paperclip from a few steps later (or another screwdriver) and pull the second piece away from the shell when you start lifting. should pull right out

Christian Wacker - 返信

  • Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

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  • Once the front and sides of the lower case are free, turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free (it may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down).

You might wanna use your spudger to pry up those back tabs to. You might break the bottom case just wiggling around waiting for it to pop loose.

neato - 返信

The orange screw on my machine has no head on it and is simply a flat surface. There is no way to remove it and consequently I completely trashed my unit attempting to remove the top cover.

There went a few bucks all for nothing as I had a spare HD sitting here ready to put in!

Calum - 返信

Be aware that you may need to use a spudger at the front of the computer to separate the metal shield from the bottom case.

michael leahy - 返信

  • Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.

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  • Remove the following 4 screws on the bottom of the computer:

    • Two 3 mm Phillips from the left side of the computer.

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips near the latch mechanism (this screw may be missing in 800 MHz iBooks)

    • One 14.2 mm Phillips near the front, right corner.

This photo is a little confusing. The shield should be off, which would show the correct positions of the yellow and orange screws. (The orange circle is in the wrong place.) Furthermore, these screws don't need to be removed at this stage (they hold the logic board to the frame). And finally, on my 800 MHz machine, BOTH these screws are 6 mm in length.

commenter - 返信

Quote from commenter:

This photo is a little confusing. The shield should be off, which would show the correct positions of the yellow and orange screws. (The orange circle is in the wrong place.) Furthermore, these screws don't need to be removed at this stage (they hold the logic board to the frame). And finally, on my 800 MHz machine, BOTH these screws are 6 mm in length.

The two red screws and the orange screw have to be removed (iBook G3 600 MHz).

florguh - 返信

Quote from Rolf Hug:

The two red screws and the orange screw have to be removed (iBook G3 600 MHz).

As well the yellow screw has to be removed according to description

florguh - 返信

  • Use a straightened paperclip to open the optical drive tray.

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  • Pull the optical drive out just enough so that you can access and remove a Phillips screw near the battery compartment.

this is the most difficult part in the whole repair

karel b - 返信

i think that we can leave that one out on re-assembly

Chris Green - 返信

It's quite hard to get to the screw and loosen it.

florguh - 返信

If you fully extend the tray it's fairly easy to get to the screw by going inside the rails. And grab it with tweezers.

Ty Leavitt - 返信

When re-installing use something sticky on your screwdriver to hold the screw in place, or it's never going in. The sleep magnet is nasty at grabbing your screw and pulling it away. (Doesn't hurt to have something sticky on it for taking it out too...)

Christian Wacker - 返信

There is no way to go in STRAIGHT without risking to damage the tray! The screw head is just too far off to the left and is covered by the tray. So I opened completely the tray and I could barely remove it from inside the try guide.

taf - 返信

Hey Steve; My advice would be to NEVER replace a tray drive with a slot drive! In my-not-very-humble opinion, slot drives are garbage, and are unfit to be used in ANY Mac computer.

dentoni - 返信

If you're doing this type of work, what's wonderful is to have a set of technicians magnetic drivers. I have a set of twelve that are about 6"long, and very skinny. Phillips 1, 0, 00, & 000 . . . Torx 6, 7, 8, 9, & 10 . . . and slotted 5/64", 3/32", & 1/8". I wish I could remember where I got them, but you could probably Google it. One of the smaller magnetic Phillips was perfect for removal AND replacing this screw. A word of CAUTION, though . . . probably best to keep any magnetic tools away from sensitive components on the PC board.

Tom - 返信

  • Pull the optical drive a bit more so that you can access and remove a second Phillips screw near the power receptacle.

This one is tiniest (shortist) so far

Rufleyboy - 返信

Be sure when installing a slot drive to replace these screws before installing the drive!!

steve - 返信

  • Turn over the computer and open it.

  • Use tweezers (or a refrigerator magnet) to remove the magnet covering a Phillips screw near the middle of the computer.

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  • Remove the following 4 screws on the edges of the keyboard area.

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips underneath where the magnet was.

    • Three 6 mm Phillips in plastic depressions.

the three 6mm screws may require more torque than previous screws.

tir38 - 返信

  • Peel up the foil tape covering the speaker cable near the ports.

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  • This is a diagram of the trackpad ribbon clamp connector you will disconnect in the next step.

  • 1) With your fingernails, grasp the locking bar on either side and pull up a small amount (about 1/16" or 2 mm).

  • 2) After disengaging the locking bar, slide the cable out of the connector.

tweezers work better than fingernails for this step.

tir38 - 返信

  • Loosen the trackpad connector by pulling the top piece up slightly, freeing the trackpad ribbon.

  • Slide the orange trackpad ribbon out of the connector.

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  • Before you can jerk the upper case off with joy, you must disconnect both the blue and white power cable and red and black speaker cable as described in the next steps.

  • Lift the upper case from the left side and use your other hand to pull out the right side in order to clear the power receptacle.

  • There may be a thin metal bar fastened to the upper case by the two screws on either side of the optical drive. This bar provides rigidity around the optical drive; don't forget it when reassembling.

I had one (800MHz), that on the B&W power cable, it was so tight that it pulled the socket from the PC board. Never had that happen before, although the potential exists on many of them. Needless to say, that machine is now allocated as a parts unit. What I found is the safest way, and really not all that much trouble, is the remove the 5 screws, peel back the tape, and remove the speaker/switch units from the top cover. Worked for me, and avoided the risk mentioned above.

Tom - 返信

  • The connectors at the ends of the cables are attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.

  • Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connector from its socket. Make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

blue up and white down

edosso - 返信

Not unless you have to! Most parts can be removed with this left in. Don't try pulling on it unless you have to, it can easily break the logic board. Just tilt the upper case up to lean it on the display.

QEII Student IT - 返信

Much easier if you do this after Step 37.

Benn Snyder - 返信

when putting back the connectors I bent the bloody pins, do it when you are relaxed............

bgfra - 返信

Quote from bgfra:

when putting back the connectors I bent the bloody pins, do it when you are relaxed............

Can easily repair them using a watch repair magnifier (3 euros)

bgfra - 返信

It is alot easier to get at after you pull the speaker cable out. Use something small to pop it out of place though, I broke my extra spare being a little too hasty.

Christian Wacker - 返信

This connector has a small catch on the right. slipping a sharp object (eg: pin) between the connector and it holder will release the catch. The connector should now come off easily.

Lawrence Lau - 返信

I put this comment in the last step, but perhaps it should go here as well:

I had one (800MHz), that on the B&W power cable, it was so tight that it pulled the socket from the PC board. Never had that happen before, although the potential exists on many of them. Needless to say, that machine is now allocated as a parts unit. What I found is the safest way, and really not all that much trouble, is the remove the 5 screws, peel back the tape, and remove the speaker/switch units from the top cover. Worked for me, and avoided the risk mentioned above.

Tom - 返信

  • Lift the upper case off completely and disconnect the red and black speaker cable from the logic board. As before, make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

There is a magnet covering a screw to the left of the serial number located in the upper center of the upper case. Remove the magnet, smooth,round and small, and loosen (doesn't need to come out) the screw to remove the upper case. Proceed to disconnecting the speaker and power cables. NOTE: this magnet is not the same one indicated in step image 33.

Marsha - 返信

  • There is a magnet that allows the computer to detect when the laptop is closed. If this magnet is not present your computer will not automatically go to sleep. Be sure the magnet is in the position indicated.

The DC board can be removed now. Disconnect the cable from the DC board. There is enough play to lift the board out. There is no need to remove the top shield.

tyler - 返信

  • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

I found that at this point I was able to avoid any further steps by removing the screw from the DC in board and the flip the machine over to reveal its connection to the board. I removed this connection and then was able to wiggle the board out and snake the cord out. Avoiding Step 38 saves a lot of screw removal. Not to mention not having to remove the CD Drive also saves a lot of time.

Just be careful when doing this that you do not force the board out of its place. There is room to remove it, but it is a gentle task.

scottgriz - 返信

  • Remove the following 14 screws (some models may be missing a couple of screws):

    • One 2.5 mm Phillips.

    • Six 3.5 mm Phillips.

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips near the sleep light with a small shaft.

    • Two 4.5 mm Phillips with larger shafts.

    • Four 5 mm Phillips

    • If a screw is inserted in the left hole, the 14.2 mm screw in step 24 can not be inserted to hold the top case down.

If your iBook is like mine (700MHz) The yellow screw was attached from the bottom through the bottom case and had to be removed earlier in order to remove the bottom case. Also the the green screw pictured to the left was missing already removed.

neato - 返信

Quote from neato:

If your iBook is like mine (700MHz) The yellow screw was attached from the bottom through the bottom case and had to be removed earlier in order to remove the bottom case. Also the the green screw pictured to the left was missing already removed.

It's the same to iBook G3 600 MHz

florguh - 返信

It is also the same for the iBook G3 500 MHz (late 2001)!

MN73 - 返信

  • Peel back three strips of yellow tape in the bottom left corner.

  • Peel back one strip of foil tape in the upper left corner and another near where the trackpad connects to the logic board.

The foil tape next to the trackpad connector is not marked in the pic

Rufleyboy - 返信

There is also foil tape, cetre front, in the cutout for the catch mechanism

Mark Pearse - 返信

  • Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner, which may catch on the metal framework.

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  • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

  • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

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  • If you have already removed the hard drive in a previous step, your iBook may differ slightly from the picture.

  • Disconnect the microphone cable from the front, left corner of the logic board.

  • Peel back the black tape and free the microphone cable from the hard drive.

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  • Use the black plastic handle to disconnect the display data cable from the logic board.

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  • If you have already removed the modem in a previous step, you can skip this step.

  • Remove the single Phillips securing the display data cable to the metal framework.

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  • Deroute the display data and microphone cables.

ended up leaving the display cable routed, had a piece of steel framing i could not get it around without the risk of tearing the cable.

Flynn Stewart - 返信

  • Peel back the yellow tape securing the inverter cable to the optical drive.

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  • Disconnect the inverter cable from the logic board.

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  • Carefully deroute the inverter cable from beneath the optical drive.

  • Deroute the Airport antenna cable from beneath the optical drive.

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  • Support the display with your free hand while removing the following screws.

  • Remove the single Phillips screw on the outer edge of either hinge (two screws total).

  • Tilt the display back to get over two small nubbins, and then slide it directly from the case and away.

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Suvadip Kar - 返信

  • Use a 1.5mm hex screwdriver to remove the two hex screws on either side of the display (four screws total).

  • If you don't have a 1.5mm hex driver, you can probably get these screws out with a T6 Torx screwdriver. However, if you use a T6 Torx driver you'll be more likely to strip the screws.

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  • Use your thumbs to slightly separate the rear bezel from the front bezel.

  • It is helpful to hold the opposing corner of the display stationary to aid in flexing the rear bezel away from the display.

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  • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the front and rear bezels.

  • Rotate your spudger until it is parallel to the front face of the display.

  • Run the spudger around the perimeter of the display to separate the rear bezel from its retaining clips.

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  • Lift the rear bezel off the display.

Here is your chance to clean the edges! Lots of gunk accumulates here.

tommalschaert - 返信

  • Remove the large piece of tape near the lower right corner of the display.

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  • Remove the single screw inserted through the piece of EMI tape near the bottom edge of the display (it's the first of the two clutch cover screws).

  • Use the tip of a spudger to remove the small washer under the screw you just removed.

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  • Peel the aluminum/EMI tape as one piece off the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges.

  • It is not necessary to peel the tape off the thin steel LCD cover.

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  • Remove the pieces of readily removable tape from around the perimeter of the display.

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  • Remove the piece of aluminum tape near the center of the LCD cover.

  • Peel back the piece of tape securing the display data cable ground loop to the thin steel LCD cover.

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  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing each side of the LCD to the clutch hinge frame (four screws total).

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  • Lift the thin steel LCD cover off the LCD.

All the RF shields are aluminum, and the frame is cast magnesium, fwiw.

Theron Ninth - 返信

  • Remove the second of the two Phillips screws securing the clutch cover to the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges.

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  • Pull the clutch cover away from the front of the display.

  • Keep track of the two covers that close the ends of the clutch cover. The third picture shows their correct orientation on the clutch cover.

To reinstall the two covers, hold one with tweezers, push clutch cover up. Tilt it and do the other side.

tommalschaert - 返信

  • Remove the two pieces of tape over the display data/microphone cables near the lower edge of the display.

Check the microphone cable where it enters the display. The outer layer is often cracked and this causes the microphone to short out. Wrap a single layer of the yellow tape around the area where it touches the screen metal frame.

tommalschaert - 返信

  • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the microphone out of the front bezel.

  • De-route the microphone cable from around the top and side of the display.

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  • Disconnect the display data cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the LCD.

  • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the LCD.

  • Remove the display data cable from the display.

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  • Remove the two pieces of tape covering the inverter/AirPort cables along the lower edge of the display.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to push the backlight connector while gently pulling its cables away from the socket on the inverter.

  • Lift the LCD out of the front bezel and set it aside.

Tweezers work a lot better than the spudger to remove the backlight connector...

dentoni - 返信

  • Remove the three Phillips screws securing the reed switch board and the AirPort antenna to the front bezel.

    • If you have a 1.33 GHz 12" G4 iBook, the reed switch board is located near the optical drive. Please skip to the next step.

  • De-route the reed switch/AirPort antenna cables around the side of the display.

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  • Gently peel the inverter cable ground strap off the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges.

  • While pulling the inverter cable away from its socket on the inverter board, use the tip of a spudger to push the connector out of its socket.

  • If the connector won't budge from its socket, insert a metal spudger or similar tool into the gap between the connector and its socket and twist to separate the two pieces.

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  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the AirPort antenna to the front bezel.

  • De-route the AirPort antenna cable along the edge of the display.

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  • If you have a 1.33 GHz 12" G4 iBook, simply remove the Inverter/AirPort cables.

  • For all other models, use the flat end of a spudger to remove the antenna board from the front bezel.

  • The antenna board is very thin and delicate.

  • Remove the inverter/AirPort cables.

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まとめ

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

8 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

添付文書

Ben Eisenman

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59のガイドは作成済み

Ugh. I just went through this entire hellish process to replace the inverter board, only to discover it's not curing the 'more than 45 degree tilt' problem - it's the same as before, so I guess my inverter isn't the issue. Must have been the tilt switch or whatever it's called.

maxplanar - 返信

Got a couple of used dental picks from a dentist; one of the most useful tools I have!

dentoni - 返信

Excellent guide.

I have been through about half of this, replacing a failed hard disk. After an hour or so, it's like "You gotta be kidding me..."

If it makes you feel any better, this iBook disassembly is easier than its sibling, the lampshade iMac.

Boyd Waters - 返信

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