このガイドを使ってSamsung Galaxy S6 Edge のスクリーンとフロントプラスチックフレームを交換します。このガイドでは、フレームからデジタイザ、OLEDディスプレイ、ディスプレイフレームとホームボタンを含めたコンポーネントを全て取り出します。

ディスプレイアセンブリとフロントプラスチックフレームを同時に交換する場合は、このガイドをご利用ください。 交換用パーツにプラスチックフレームが付いていない場合は、こちらのガイドを参照してください


  1. 交換用パーツが1番目の画像と類似している場合は、次のディスプレイアセンブリとフレームの交換ガイドを参照してください。 交換用パーツが2番目の画像と類似している場合は、次のディスプレイアセンブリの交換ガイドを参照してください。
  2. 紙クリップかSIMカード取り出しツールを、デバイス上部のSIMカードスロットの穴に差し込みます。 ツールをマイクの穴に差し込まないようにご注意ください。破損の恐れがあります。SIMカードトレイがどこにあるか確認してください。 ツールを押し込んでSIMカードトレイを取り出します。
    • 紙クリップかSIMカード取り出しツールを、デバイス上部のSIMカードスロットの穴に差し込みます。

    • ツールをマイクの穴に差し込まないようにご注意ください。破損の恐れがあります。SIMカードトレイがどこにあるか確認してください。

    • ツールを押し込んでSIMカードトレイを取り出します。

    • 電話本体からSIMカードトレイを取り出します。

    First thankful sir that you have a good idea for people to creat like this.. I am very happy from your website its too good. All things i learn from your website thank you..

    Lovely Khan - 返信

    My issue is my tray is stuck

    James middleton - 返信

  3. 電子レンジに付着している汚れがiOpenerに付いてしまうことがあるので、使用前に電子レンジの底をきれいに拭き取ってください。 iOpenerを電子レンジ中央に置きます。
    • 電子レンジに付着している汚れがiOpenerに付いてしまうことがあるので、使用前に電子レンジの底をきれいに拭き取ってください。

    • iOpenerを電子レンジ中央に置きます。

    • 回転型の電子レンジ:iOpenerが電子レンジのターンテーブルで回転しているか確認してください。iOpenerが作動中に留まってしまうと、熱しすぎや焦げてしまいます。

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - 返信

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 返信

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 返信

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 返信

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 返信

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 返信

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - 返信

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - 返信

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - 返信

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - 返信

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - 返信

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - 返信

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 返信

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - 返信

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - 返信

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - 返信

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - 返信

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - 返信

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - 返信

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - 返信

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - 返信

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - 返信

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -


    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - 返信

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - 返信

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - 返信

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - 返信

  4. iOpenerを30秒温めます。
    • iOpenerを30秒温めます。

    • 修理作業中はiOpenerが冷めてしまいますので、使用毎に電子レンジに30秒入れて温めてからご利用ください。

    • 作業中、iOpenerを温めすぎないようにご注意ください。温めすぎるとiOpenerを破裂させてしまうことがあります。

    • 膨らんでいる状態のiOpenerは絶対に触らないでください。

    • 適切に温められたiOpenerは約10分間、温かい状態を保ちます。

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 返信

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 返信

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 返信

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 返信

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 返信

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 返信

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 返信

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.


    Karl Marble - 返信

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - 返信

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - 返信

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - 返信

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - 返信

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - 返信


    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 返信

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - 返信

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - 返信

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - 返信

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - 返信

  5. 電子レンジからiOpenerを取り出します。iOpenerの中央は熱くなっているため、両端の平面になっている部分を持ってください。
    • 電子レンジからiOpenerを取り出します。iOpenerの中央は熱くなっているため、両端の平面になっている部分を持ってください。

    • iOpenerは大変熱くなっていることがあります。必要であれば、オーブン用のミトンカバーをご利用ください。

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 返信

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - 返信

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - 返信

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - 返信

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - 返信

  6. 電子レンジがない場合は、熱湯の中にiOpener をいれて温める方法もあります。 鍋を十分な量のお湯で満たして、iOpener を完全に沈めます。
    • 電子レンジがない場合は、熱湯の中にiOpener をいれて温める方法もあります。

    • 鍋を十分な量のお湯で満たして、iOpener を完全に沈めます。

    • お湯を沸かして熱くなったら火を止めます

    • iOpenerを熱湯の中に約2−3分間沈めます。iOpener全体が完全に浸かっているか確認してください。

    • トングなどを浸かって、温まったiOpenerをお湯から取り出します。

    • タオルでiOpener全体を拭き取ります。

    • iOpenerが非常に熱い場合は、先端のタブを持って火傷をしないようにご注意ください。

    • iOpenerの準備は整いました。iOpenerを再度温める必要がある場合は、お湯を沸騰させて、火を止めてからiOpenerを2-3分間浸してください。

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com - 返信

  7. デバイスを開口すると、防水機能を失います。作業を始める前に、交換用接着剤を準備するか、接着剤を交換しないで組み立てをする場合は、デバイスの防水性能について留意してください。 ガラスにひびが入っている場合は、取り外し作業の間ガラスを固定する必要があるため、パネル全体に透明の保護テープを貼り付けてください。
    • デバイスを開口すると、防水機能を失います。作業を始める前に、交換用接着剤を準備するか、接着剤を交換しないで組み立てをする場合は、デバイスの防水性能について留意してください。

    • ガラスにひびが入っている場合は、取り外し作業の間ガラスを固定する必要があるため、パネル全体に透明の保護テープを貼り付けてください。

    • 温めたiOpenerをリアパネルの上に約2分間のせて、ガラスの端に沿ってつけられた接着剤を柔らかくします。

    • iOpenerを数回にわたって温め、デバイスについている接着剤を柔らかくする必要があります。オーバーヒートを防ぐため、iOpenerの使用方法を参照してください。

    • iOpeneをパネルの残りの部分に移して、約2分間のせて温めます。

    • ヘアドライヤー、ヒートガン、ホットプレートでも対応できますが、デバイスのオーバーヒートにはご注意ください。OLEDディスプレイや内蔵バッテリーは熱によるダメージを受けやすいためです。

    the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure

    get it fixed - 返信

    After did that with my own heat pad, the white paint got ripped off but luckily glass back cover did not break. So I scratched all white part of the back cover and now its all transparent.

    Jae Chung - 返信

    haha, the same happened for me after using a hair dryer. While still hot, the paint peeled of very easily. (too bad the mid-frame visually blocks most of the circuits…)

    Michael -

    I used a purpose built heating device at 100 degree celsius. Lower temperatures didn't work.

    ken - 返信

    I used a blow dryer, attached my multimeter heat sensor to the back to monitor the temperature. At 54 degrees Celsius I could separate the back with a suction cup from my phone without damaging the paint.

    LRD - 返信

    I gave up on the hot bag after 4 heat and apply cycles. I was only getting the back up to 60c using an infrared thermometer. I switched to a harbor freight 1500w heat gun set to Low, moving constantly around the back, until the back read 95c. The back came off easily at that point.

    Nathan Wray - 返信

    I found another site that said temps of 203F/95C were required to soften the glues. Once I started using those temps with my heat gun, as well as a tool I made by just cutting the flat front/back panel from a package of screws (any plastic package that has a flat panel will work) , I had the back off in no time. Had I continued to use the plastic pick shown in the instructions, I really doubt I would have gotten the back off since I couldn’t get enough force on the back from my suction cup. The thin package plastic acted almost like a knife as I moved it around the outside edge. WARNING: If you have to reheat the back, REMOVE THE PACKAGE PLASTIC!! It will start to melt from the heat of a heat gun. Good Luck!!

    morttormjch - 返信

    I had a pristine s6 edge I’m replacing the battery in. I can agree with many others about the amount of heart needed and need to where gloves. I had to heat several times using a heat gun. After several attempts phone broke free from suction cup went flying and now I have a phone with broken screen. Oh well, glad it’s not my primary phone. After getting it above 100c, the back glass finally started to separate. You need another person to be ready with a pick. Once you get one pick in, the rest is .

    Brian Gillan - 返信

    Neither I had any success with the iopener. I ended up heating with a hair dryer. The metallic edges become quite hot.

    BTW: My phone’s “Rear Glass” is actually plastic. It didn’t seem like it would crack very easily.

    Michael - 返信

    To get an even heat distribution at just the right temperature to easily pry the back off I used a steam iron, dry, set between wool and cotton. To hold down the phone I clamped it at the long edges with 2 strips of 1/4” furniture grade plywood cut at 7 degrees, screwed to 2’ 2x6; and then clamped the 2x6 to my work table. This made it much easier to persuade to back off without any oops!

    Michael Bielec - 返信

    I used a hot and cold gel pad usually intended for injuries. It needed about 4 cycles of warming the phone but then worked like a charm.

    Sam Turner - 返信

  8. リアガラスが熱くて触れない程度になったら、ガラスの下側端に吸盤カップを取り付けます。 吸盤カップを引き上げて、リアガラスの下に小さな隙間を作ります。開口ピックを隙間に差し込んでください。 オプションで開口ピックを差し込んだ後、隙間にイソプロピルアルコールを数滴注入すれば、接着力を弱めることができます。
    • リアガラスが熱くて触れない程度になったら、ガラスの下側端に吸盤カップを取り付けます。

    • 吸盤カップを引き上げて、リアガラスの下に小さな隙間を作ります。開口ピックを隙間に差し込んでください。

    • オプションで開口ピックを差し込んだ後、隙間にイソプロピルアルコールを数滴注入すれば、接着力を弱めることができます。

    If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.

    I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.

    dougpender - 返信

    Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!

    Jessie Brooks -

    Be careful during this step- reapply heat before attempting this one (battery issues tend to melt internal “areas” ) and this area is most prone to crack during the lifting of the back plate.

    [deleted] - 返信

    I think it is just about impossible to do this without at least removing some paint on the edges. Order a new back before you attempt this. It has the adhesive already on it and costs less than $10 on eBay.

    Thomas Hayes - 返信

    In order to get in more easily, I normally use the iFlex (the metal one) which is thin enough to create a little space, and then i insert a thinner plastic sheet, just like the default screen protector you might find on some huawei or xiaomi phones. That plus half a drop of alcohol should do the trick. Use caution and be very patient.

    Stefano Restuccia - 返信

    Ridiculous. I put a heat gun on mine for 30 seconds, 3 times, couldn’t get the screen to move AT ALL while pulling very hard with suction cups.

    Enough of this ‘you don’t get to mess with the battery’ nonsense. Quit screwing people over. Also, I love my ifixit kit. I had to make the post less negative.

    Adam Talbott - 返信

    Really struggling removing the screen. It’s not budging at all.

    Paul Knight - 返信

  9. デバイス下側端に沿って開口ピックをスライドして、リアガラスを固定している接着剤を切開します。 その後、ピックをそのままにして、次の手順に進むときに2番目のピックを準備しておくと便利です。 ピックを挿入したままにしておくと、切開した接着剤の再接着を防ぐことができます。
    • デバイス下側端に沿って開口ピックをスライドして、リアガラスを固定している接着剤を切開します。

    • その後、ピックをそのままにして、次の手順に進むときに2番目のピックを準備しておくと便利です。 ピックを挿入したままにしておくと、切開した接着剤の再接着を防ぐことができます。

    • 必要に応じて、リアガラスを再度温めて、接着剤の冷却に伴う硬化を防ぎます。

    Be careful that the bottom of the phone is well heated, and add a drop or so of isopropyl alcohol. When I removed the back glass of my S6, some of the black coating on the glass stayed stuck to the adhesive, so to return my phone to its original appearance, I’ll have to get a new back glass.

    Gary F - 返信

    I needed help of a second person to insert the first pick. Apart from that, it was a one person job for me.

    Michael - 返信

  10. デバイスの残りの3辺においても同じ作業を繰り返してください。 接着剤が再装着しないように、各エッジに開口ピックを残しておきます。 接着剤が再装着しないように、各エッジに開口ピックを残しておきます。
    • デバイスの残りの3辺においても同じ作業を繰り返してください。

    • 接着剤が再装着しないように、各エッジに開口ピックを残しておきます。

    At this stage I didn’t use a plastic pick as I think they are too thick and will crack a screen that’s not already cracked. I used a stainless steel

    I sesame blade which does a much better job of cutting through the adhesive. Just be careful not to insert it in too far. I sometimes put a mark on my blade to ensure it doesn’t go in too far.

    Wayne Lyell - 返信

    I used a card like the ones people use to play poker or any card game with. Only one was needed to separate the back without any damage to the paint.

    LRD - 返信

    Be sure to apply a decent amount of heat when removing the last bit of the rear glass, cracked the rear of my screen (only a small amount mind) trying too use too much force not enough heat for the last spot.

    spank2103 - 返信

  11. 開口ピックを使って、残りの接着剤を切開します。 背面ガラスを取り外します。
    • 開口ピックを使って、残りの接着剤を切開します。

    • 背面ガラスを取り外します。

    The rear glass is very fragile. I cracked mine across the camera opening while cleaning off the old sealant. Next time ( I will have to order one and do it again…doh) I’ll place it on a flat surface while cleaning it.

    Greg Scott - 返信

    This is also a really good time to remove the SIM tray

    John Murphy - 返信

  12. 新しいリアガラスをインストールするには ピンセットを使って、デバイスのカシスから残りの接着剤を綺麗に除去します。
    • 新しいリアガラスをインストールするには

    • ピンセットを使って、デバイスのカシスから残りの接着剤を綺麗に除去します。

    • 高濃度イソプロピルアルコール(90%以上)と糸くずの出ないマジックワイプで接着面を綺麗に拭き取ります。前後ではなく一方向にむけて拭いてください。こうすることで、新しい接着剤用の表面を整えることができます。

    • 新しいリアガラスから接着用シールを剥がしてください。リアガラスの一端をデバイスの筐体に向けて慎重に位置を揃え、しっかりとガラスを本体に向けて押し込みます。

    • 古いリアガラスを再利用する場合や、プレインストールされた接着剤のついていないリアガラスを使用する場合は、このガイドを参照してください。

    You should note that the adhesive strip may need to be fully removed from the frame in order to proceed with repairs. The adhesive on my phone covered all of the screws exposed in the next step.

    Sean Cruz - 返信

    When I did my battery, the adhesive stayed almost 100% on the back glass and was still in good shape. What didn’t remain attached only lifted slightly and I was able to coax it back to its original location with tweezers. I didn’t bother to remove and replace the adhesive layer because mine was still good. I set the glass out of the way where it wouldn’t get dirt on the adhesive while I finished the battery swap. I added some additional heat (hair dryer) after reattaching the glass to make sure the adhesive made the best seal.

    Wayne Thomason - 返信

  13. ミッドフレームから3.3 mm #00プラスネジを13本取り外します。
    • ミッドフレームから3.3 mm #00プラスネジを13本取り外します。

    Do yall sell the screws and the screw organization mat

    The lit asf Channel - 返信

  14. バッテリーの裏側を下にして、デバイス本体からミッドフレームの端を持ち上げて外します。 バッテリーの裏側を下にして、デバイス本体からミッドフレームの端を持ち上げて外します。 バッテリーの裏側を下にして、デバイス本体からミッドフレームの端を持ち上げて外します。
    • バッテリーの裏側を下にして、デバイス本体からミッドフレームの端を持ち上げて外します。

    Difficile étape

    Easy Repair - 返信

    this was the most difficult step for me; the given instructions make it look/sound easy, however these two parts do NOT come apart easily and I found myself forcing them apart with a knife blade, using the heat gun.

    georgew94703 - 返信

    the photograph is misleading

    georgew94703 - 返信

    BE Extremely careful I broke my screen, this is a point of no return! Beware!!

    James middleton - 返信

    As everyone knows a Samsung screen replacement on old phones is pointless, for the same money you can buy a new phone

    James middleton -

  15. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、マザーボードからバッテリーリボンケーブルの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、マザーボードからバッテリーリボンケーブルの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、マザーボードからバッテリーリボンケーブルの接続を外します。

    Hello ! Is there a way i can buy only this flex cord that you are showing . A GSM service broke it and wont fix my phone

    Lica Mihai-Alexandru - 返信

  16. マザーボードからホームボタンリボンケーブルの接続を外します。 マザーボードからホームボタンリボンケーブルの接続を外します。
    • マザーボードからホームボタンリボンケーブルの接続を外します。

  17. スパッジャーの先端を使って、マザーボードから2本のアンテナインターコネクトケーブルの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、マザーボードから2本のアンテナインターコネクトケーブルの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、マザーボードから2本のアンテナインターコネクトケーブルの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、マザーボードから2本のアンテナインターコネクトケーブルの接続を外します。

  18. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、マザーボードからディスプレイリボンケーブルの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、マザーボードからディスプレイリボンケーブルの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、マザーボードからディスプレイリボンケーブルの接続を外します。

  19. マザーボードからイヤホンリボンケーブルの接続を外します。 マザーボードからイヤホンリボンケーブルの接続を外します。
    • マザーボードからイヤホンリボンケーブルの接続を外します。

  20. マザーボードは静電気にとても弱いコンポーネントです。注意して作業を進めてください。iFixit ではこの性質のコンポーネントを扱う際にはダメージを防ぐため、 ここに翻訳を挿入する
    • マザーボードは静電気にとても弱いコンポーネントです。注意して作業を進めてください。iFixit ではこの性質のコンポーネントを扱う際にはダメージを防ぐため、

    • ここに翻訳を挿入する

    • ここに翻訳を挿入する

    • ここに翻訳を挿入する

    Better to remove the antenna connector from daughter board and keep the connector on main board, as You will planning to remove it you will need to take from it anyway.

    Gabriel Pinho - 返信

  21. マザーボードの裏側からドーターボードのリボンケーブルの接続を外します。 マザーボードの裏側からドーターボードのリボンケーブルの接続を外します。
    • マザーボードの裏側からドーターボードのリボンケーブルの接続を外します。

    I had trouble removing the daughter board connector so I gently folded the main board back and was able to remove the battery.

    Eric Bornstein - 返信

  22. バッテリーの下に開口ピックを差し込み、下に付けられた圧着材を切り込みながらスライドします。 バッテリー裏側の中央部分にはフレーム補強材が付けられていません。 バッテリーをこじ開ける際に、ダメージを与えやすいディスプレイパネルを損傷しないように注意してください。 こじ開ける作業中、バッテリーを変形させないようにご注意ください。柔らかいシェルリチウムイオン電池は、アクシデントで損傷してしまうと危険な化学物質を漏出させたり、引火、爆発する可能性があります。 過度の力を加えたり、メタル製工具でバッテリーに作業をしないでください。
    • バッテリーの下に開口ピックを差し込み、下に付けられた圧着材を切り込みながらスライドします。

    • バッテリー裏側の中央部分にはフレーム補強材が付けられていません。 バッテリーをこじ開ける際に、ダメージを与えやすいディスプレイパネルを損傷しないように注意してください。

    • こじ開ける作業中、バッテリーを変形させないようにご注意ください。柔らかいシェルリチウムイオン電池は、アクシデントで損傷してしまうと危険な化学物質を漏出させたり、引火、爆発する可能性があります。 過度の力を加えたり、メタル製工具でバッテリーに作業をしないでください。

  23. バッテリーを完全に外すには開口ピックを捻りながらスライドし、バッテリーを取り出します。 バッテリーを一度取り外した後は、再使用しないでください。使用すると安全上の問題が生じる可能性があります。 新しいバッテリーに交換してください。
    • バッテリーを完全に外すには開口ピックを捻りながらスライドし、バッテリーを取り出します。

    • バッテリーを一度取り外した後は、再使用しないでください。使用すると安全上の問題が生じる可能性があります。 新しいバッテリーに交換してください。

    • 新しいバッテリーが正しく装着されているか確認するには:

    • デバイス本体から残っている接着剤をすべて取り除き、イソプロピルアルコールと糸くずの出ないリントフリーの布で接着部分を綺麗に拭き取ります。

    • 交換用バッテリーを所定の位置に取り付けますが、まだ接着剤を装着しないでください。 マザーボードが所定の位置にインストールしてから再組み立てを再開します (手順18)。

    • プレカットされた接着剤または両面テープを、バッテリーコンパートメント周囲に貼り付けますが、中央の長方形の切り欠き (実際にはディスプレイの裏側)は不要です。

    • バッテリーコネクタをマザーボードに一時的に接続して、バッテリーが正しく装着されているか確認します。

    • バッテリーを所定の位置に5〜10秒間しっかりと押し込みます。 バッテリーの接続を外して、再組み立てを再開してください。

    Hi Sam, in conclusion and reassembling is the heat pad (used at the appropriate step in reverse) sufficient to re-adhere the panels or should new adhesive be applied. If new adhesive is required, can you recommend a satisfactory product please.



    Warren Redding - 返信

    You should apply new adhesive when reinstalling your rear panel. You can use this 3M Double-Sided Adhesive Tape that we sell, or look around online for adhesive tape cut specifically for your phone.

    Evan Noronha -


    Der Rahmen unter dem Akku ist an den verklebten Längsseiten nur ca. 5mm breit. In der Mitte befindet sich kein stabiler Schutz zwischen Akku und der Rückseite des LCD-Panels. Also besser wirklich nur die Ränder lösen und nicht mit einem Spachtel oder Ähnlichem hinter dem Akku herumhebeln, denn das könnte das LCD beschädigen.

    Oliver Edler - 返信

    Valueable comment !! - Should be in the step20/21 !!!

    Jens H.S. Tingleff -

    I’ve updated the step to include the comments. Thanks for the suggestion!

    Arthur Shi -

    Beachten bei Akku Einbau!

    Die Position des Akkus muss in Längsrichtung unbedingt anhand des Anschlusssteckers ausgerichtet werden und nicht an dem Kunstoffrand des Bodens. Das Flachkabel ist nicht flexibel und der Anschlussstecker hat kaum Toleranz (+- 1/10 )

    Das ist etwas knifflig, denn man sieht die richtige Lage nur, wenn die Hauptplatine in Position ist.

    Am besten, man überprüft das, bevor der Kleber am Akku angebracht ist.

    Wer den Fehler gemacht hat, weiß was ich meine. :/

    Oliver Edler - 返信

  24. 2.5mm  #00プラスネジを2本外します。
    • 2.5mm #00プラスネジを2本外します。

  25. 軽く接着剤で固定されている小さなドーターボードの一部をスパッジャーの先端でこじ開けます。 軽く接着剤で固定されている小さなドーターボードの一部をスパッジャーの先端でこじ開けます。
    • 軽く接着剤で固定されている小さなドーターボードの一部をスパッジャーの先端でこじ開けます。

    small section of daughterboard ribbon is broken is there any solution to fix it in this condition

    i am unable to find connections/ data sheet / diagram

    Zeeshan Jafri - 返信

  26. ドーターボードを持ち上げてデバイス本体から外します。 ドーターボードを持ち上げてデバイス本体から外します。 ドーターボードを持ち上げてデバイス本体から外します。
    • ドーターボードを持ち上げてデバイス本体から外します。

    I think this step needs to add the need to carefully remove the soft key contacts? That’s where I’ve come unstuck :(

    Simone Casey - 返信

  27. スパッジャーの先端をバイブレーターの下にあるディスプレイフレームの隙間に差し込み、接着剤から解放します。 バイブレーターをディスプレイアセンブリから取り出します。 残ったディスプレイアセンブリと交換用のディスプレイアセンブリを比較してみてください。ホームボタンやディスプレイフレームのようなコンポーネントを追加で移す必要があるかもしれません。
    • スパッジャーの先端をバイブレーターの下にあるディスプレイフレームの隙間に差し込み、接着剤から解放します。

    • バイブレーターをディスプレイアセンブリから取り出します。

    • 残ったディスプレイアセンブリと交換用のディスプレイアセンブリを比較してみてください。ホームボタンやディスプレイフレームのようなコンポーネントを追加で移す必要があるかもしれません。

    Forgot to mention removing the ear speaker.

    Ralph G Harris - 返信

    If your replacement part doesn’t come with an earpiece speaker, follow this earpiece speaker guide to remove it!

    Sam Goldheart -



62 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。


en jp


Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! あなたも貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Sam Goldheart

メンバー登録日: 2012年10月18日

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4 件のコメント

Would it be possible to point out which connectors are for the LCD/touch screen, as my screen is not broken but part of the my touch screen will not work and I would like to check the connector is applied properly. Also would it be possible to purchase that suction cup somewhere?

Nina Borseth - 返信

It does not seem as though steps #25, #26, and #27 are necessary for this specific project: Display Assembly Replacement. Otherwise an excellent guide!

Liam K - 返信

You are right! The guide has been re-organized to leave those steps out now.

Arthur Shi -

Does anybody know if there is actually any difference between the CDMA and GSM screens? I got a galaxy s6 edge with a broken screen, and the back said verizon, but when I opened it up, the charging port flex cable said, SM-G925A, which is the AT&T version right? I have a working screen I took off of a working verizon phone, but it doesn’t work on the ATT phone. I’m not sure if its that the motherboard is damaged, or if the Verizon screen won’t work on the AT&T phone.

Reed Deemer - 返信



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