はじめに
Follow this guide to replace the earpiece speaker of a Samsung Galaxy Note9.
必要な工具と部品
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Insert a SIM card eject tool straight into the hole in the SIM card tray.
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Press to eject the SIM card tray.
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Power off your phone before beginning disassembly.
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Use a hairdryer, a heatgun, or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the back of the phone for about a minute to soften the adhesive underneath.
If using an iOpener it will need to be fully heated and set on for at least 5 minutes. You’ll know the phone is hot enough when its almost too hot to touch.
Just came here to say exactly that. The instructions should be amended to state that: "Get it fully hot and leave it there for at least three minutes solid."
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Apply a suction handle to the back cover.
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Lift with a suction handle to create a gap between the back cover and the frame of the phone.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap.
It takes so much heat that it is concerning that damage might be caused to the internal parts. It is difficult to heat the glue, pull the case apart and insert the pick at same time. May need some more pointers to handle these situations first, to prevent possible damage. Also what about the glue that is heated and then cooled before opening? Does it run inside and cause greater adhesion after it cools? Another thing, the handling may cause the phone to turn back on while working to separate. Don't know that that is of concern.
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Note that there is more adhesive along the top edge and around the camera bezel than around the rest of the phone.
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Cut carefully around the left edge near the fingerprint sensor or you risk damaging the ribbon cable inside.
It's extremely easy to crack the back glass when nearing and rounding the corners. It's probably a good idea to soften the adhesive with heat as you go.
Step 5 is NOT "cut through the adhesive", that's steps 5-10. Step 5 is "Begin the careful process of cutting through the adhesive, starting at the right side where you already softened it. Proceed carefully, slowly, and warmly through the following steps."
These comments are spot-on. I never break a phone, and I cracked the back glass following the instructions without seeing these comments first. Heat the back much more than you think you need and go super, super slow.
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Starting from the center, cut the adhesive up and down the right side with an opening pick.
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Leave an opening pick in the upper-right corner.
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Use another opening pick to cut the adhesive around the bottom-right corner.
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Leave that opening pick in the phone.
There seems to be a lot of glue at the bottom, I broke the glass as I was cutting past the charging port - not sure if it was already fractured or just not enough heat (I used Sellotape so it didn't break up into pieces!)
I think LOTS of heat & patience is the key!
Be very careful around the corners and bottom (probably top too, but I didn't have a problem there). Make sure you've cut in far enough down the side first (go in about 1cm) but less round the corners and work in slowly.
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Use a heat gun or hair dryer or apply a heated iOpener to the left side of the rear panel for at three minutes to soften the adhesive underneath.
If using an iOpener it will need to be fully heated and set on for at least 5 minutes. You’ll know the phone is hot enough when its almost too hot to touch.
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Using the inserted opening pick, carefully cut the adhesive around the upper-left corner of the rear panel.
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Finally, cut the last of the adhesive along the top of the phone.
Be VERY patient as you slide the opening picks around the periphery of the glass, and use heat very liberally. Make sure the smooth, clear aspect of the iOpener is against the glass, not the rough black portion.
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Separate the right side of the rear cover first.
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Tilt the cover up along the left edge to expose the fingerprint sensor ribbon cable.
Thought I'd done something wrong here as there wasn't a cable attached to the back - the fingerprint reader hadn't come away with the back, but had stayed with the phone.
Exactly the same experience. Made life a little easier.
Happened to me as well.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry the fingerprint sensor ribbon cable up and out of its socket.
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Remove the back cover.
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Use tweezers to peel away any remaining adhesive from the phone's chassis. Then clean the adhesion areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth to prep the surface for the new adhesive. You don't have to clear out adhesive down to the plastic but larger pieces should be removed.
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Turn on your phone and test your repair before installing new adhesive and resealing the phone.
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Carefully apply the new adhesive to the back cover, then line up one edge of the glass against the phone chassis and firmly press the glass into the phone.
I am installing a new backplate (this is my first repair; I was CERTAIN that I would crack the back glass, and I was NOT wrong) but I’m not sure how tweezers are meant to remove gooey adhesive! I simply used the blue plastic pry tool as a scraper and gently rolled up the goo. Maybe the glue is different because I have a refurbished phone? That may also explain why I had so much trouble with Step 1. Hope that this helps!
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手順14 Remove the upper midframe
注意: 手順 14-17 は、作業進行中としてマークされている ガイド から引用されています。
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the nine 4 mm screws securing the upper midframe.
There are two more screws on the bottom right corner of the little side frame that the Qi plate is glued to. I took those out as it put less stress on it.
John Stone - 返信
It helps to hold the fine tweezers with your non-dominant hand to support the screw heads and ensure they come straight out; you can also gently lift as you unscrew.
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Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the orange ribbon cable connecting the battery to the motherboard.
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Remove the nine 4 mm Phillips screws from the plastic cover next to the battery.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry the front camera connector straight up and out of its socket.
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Use tweezers to remove the front camera.
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Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the iris scanner from the motherboard.
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Use tweezers to remove the iris scanner.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the front sensor connector out of its socket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display cable from the motherboard.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the charging assembly from the motherboard.
These screws are supposed to be 3.2 mm because when I took out these screws, they were shorter than the ones you take out first
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Insert one side of a pair of angled tweezers into the gap in the side of the phone's earpiece speaker slot.
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Gently pry the earpiece speaker free from its adhesive.
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Lift the earpiece speaker out of the slot.
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To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
4 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
4 件のコメント
One question, if I go through the aluminum mesh, with a pin to the bottom, do I hit the plastic or the speaker? it's a curiosity that is altering me a little haha. Thanks
I have not taken apart the speaker on the Note9 so I don’t know for sure but I think you would hit the speaker.
Metal i mean
Elliot -
It is a curiosity that I would like to know, and it is that I can not find any photo taken from above, only from a side angle. Thank you
Elliot -
