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はじめに

このガイドを使用して、トップシェルとAppleロゴを含む、Retina MacBook 2016の完全なRetinaディスプレイアセンブリを交換してください。

    • 先に進む前に、コンセントを抜いてMacBookの電源を切ります。 ディスプレイを閉じ、表面を下にして柔らかい表面に置きます。

    • 下部ケースを固定する以下8本のネジを取り外します。

    • 2本の1.8 mm P5ペンタローブネジ

    • 4本の2.9 mm P5ペンタローブネジ

    • 2本の6.1 mm P5ペンタローブネジ

    • ネジを取り外すときは、ネジの向きに注意してください。ネジを少し傾けて再度取り付ける必要があります。

    • この修理全体を通して、各ネジを紛失しないようにし、デバイスの損傷を避けるために元の位置へ正確に戻すよう確認してください。

    IMPORTANT. You’re not removing the bottom, yet. This step is solely to separate the panel from its clips, permitting inside access.

    Chris Leeds - 返信

    The screws go in tangent to the curve of the case. If you aren’t used to handling small hardware try turning the screw counterclockwise while you feel for the hole until you feel it drop, that means the threads have aligned. It takes only light finger torque when they are threaded correctly

    abscate - 返信

  1. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 2、 3の画像 1 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 2、 3の画像 2 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 2、 3の画像 3
    • MacBookの背面からヒンジの間に向かって、上部ケースと下部ケースの間に指を差し込みます。

    • 下部ケースと上部ケースを接続するケーブルの損傷を防ぐため、下部ケースを少しだけ持ち上げます。

    • しっかりと握りながら、下部ケースが上部ケースからわずかに離れるまでしっかりと持ち上げます。

    • 下部ケースを持ち上げるときに、強い抵抗を感じる場合があります。2つの隠れた固定クリップを外すため、必要に応じてオープニングピック、または静電気ESD安全のこじ開けツールを下部ケースの側端に沿ってスライドさせます。

    • 再組み立て中、クリップを再装着するには、クリップが所定の位置にカチッと収まるのが聞こえるまで、下部ケースの両側の端の近く(3番目の画像でピックが挿入されている場所の近く)をしっかり押します。

  2. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 3、 1の画像 1
    • 下部ケースを持ちながら、Appleロゴが上を向くようにMacBookを慎重に裏返します。

  3. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 4、 2の画像 1 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 4、 2の画像 2
    • 上部ケースとディスプレイを一緒に前端から持ち上げ、約45°の角度まで起こします。

    • 次の手順の準備として、この位置でMacBookを開いておくと便利です。

  4. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 5、 3の画像 1 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 5、 3の画像 2 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 5、 3の画像 3
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、小さなゴールドの”バッテリーの切断”ボタンを長押しします。

    • 電源LEDが点灯している場合、LEDが消えるまでボタンを長押しして離します。 これには最大10秒かかります。

    • LEDが点灯していない場合、5〜10秒後にボタンを離します。 再度、5〜10秒間押し続けてから離します。 最後に、3回目として5〜10秒間押し続けてから離します。

    • この手順により、MacBookの電源が完全に切れて、安全に作業ができるようになります。

    cannot turn on the led after replacing the new screen, even after following the turn on instructions upper…

    Laurent Pierre - 返信

    on reassembly, I had to plug my laptop in to reactivate the LED light

    aaron_vandyke2003 - 返信

    Does anyone know how to turn it back on..? I plugged the laptop in and saw the LED Light, but it won’t turn on

    mmcsorley - 返信

    After reassembly I could not restart my MacBook using the power button or after SMC reset (shift-ctrl-option-pwr). I had to connect my MacBook to its charging cable to get the battery LED to re-illuminate. After that it was all normal.

    Richard Lovatt - 返信

    It took a few minutes on the power adapter for my computer to turn on after it was reassembled.

    Luk Chl - 返信

    mine doesnt turn on w anything, i forgot to click the buton to disconnect :_/

    cristian.campuzano - 返信

    Same issue as above peeps. Followed ifixit directions verbatim and wasn't getting anything after screwing everything back in. Plugged in original 45W power block and waited, after few minutes battery LED came on and a min. or two after that, was able to get screen to turn on. Hope this helps somebody else.

    Brandon Elliott - 返信

    May I ask how to get screen to turn on. I cannot get it work..

    Xiubo Zhang - 返信

    There needs to be mention of procedure for getting the repaired MacBook to power up again after the repair is completed.

    I also am running into the issue described by others. MB will not come on again, even after being plugged into power and performing an SMC reset.

    Kinda stuck….

    Carlos Perez - 返信

    Hi, I tried everything and my MacBook will not start up after replacing the bottom case with a battery installed. I decided to put back on the old case with the battery that needs servicing and it still will not power on. I am fairly experienced taking apart laptops I was an Apple service tech for 15 years. this has me baffalled. Any hints BTY the logic board does not show any power coming from the AC charger the power LED is not lit up

    eestern - 返信

    I had trouble with this as well. What worked for me is to plug in power using the stock 29W USB C power brick that originally came with this Macbook. Trying other, lower powered, power adapters did not work. Use this advice with caution as there are multiple (i.e substantiated) comments that indicate that first power up should only be with a 5W adapter! So perhaps try this strict sequence: try with a 5W adapter, then and only then try with the 29W adapter. Or even slightly better, if everything else has completely failed, only then try full power 29W adapter.

    LexxOne - 返信

    How long did you wait to get it power back on? I replaced my logic board and tried to connect the power charger but it doesnt still turn on.

    Herb -

    The easiest error to make when working on this motherboard if applying full voltage after re-assembly. According to the big A, the motherboard on these Macbooks need to be “woken up” with a 5 watt (phone size) charger. Applying the normal 29 watts may render your system unusable.

    Noah - Feb 18, 2021

    Hello Noah,

    It seems your remark is only valid for the 2015 and not the 2016 edition.

    David - Mar 3, 2021

    While it’s true that the internal documentation specifies this for a 2015, after frying 2 motherboards with a normal charger, I spoke with the engineers and they told me that this also applies to 2016 and 2017 macbook main logic boards. I say- It can’t hurt to try to wake them up with a 5 watt charger first! Please take 5 minutes to save your motherboard.

    Noah - Mar 4, 2021

    Noah - 返信

    I plugged in my charger and the LED came on. The computer gets warm but the screen is not turning on. The keyboards doesn’t seem to respond to recovery options. Any suggestions?

    J'Trel Sapp -

  5. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 6、 1の画像 1
    • MacBookを閉じて、慎重に本体を裏返します。

  6. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 7、 1の画像 1
    • 前端から持ち上げて、下部ケースを約45°の角度で開きます。

    • MacBookにと下部ケースを繋げているリボンケーブルを、傷つけないように注意してください。

  7. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 8、 2の画像 1 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 8、 2の画像 2
    • ピンセットを使用して、トラックパッドケーブルのZIFコネクタを覆っているテープをはがします。

    Where can I find a replacement cable?

    John Comix - 返信

  8. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 9、 3の画像 1 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 9、 3の画像 2 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 9、 3の画像 3
    • スパッジャーを使用して、トラックパッドケーブルのZIFコネクタ上の固定フラップを慎重に持ち上げます。

    The small retainer flips up about 90 degrees from locked position

    abscate - 返信

    The keyboard and trackpad don't work after the repair, what can I do? They don't even show up in System Report.

    bredelet - 返信

    I found that the connector was not pushed enough in. Works now.

    bredelet -

  9. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 10、 2の画像 1 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 10、 2の画像 2
    • フレームのスロットから慎重に引き抜いて、トラックパッドからトラックパッドリボンケーブルの接続を外します。

  10. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 11、 3の画像 1 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 11、 3の画像 2 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 11、 3の画像 3
    • Appleのロゴが上向きになるように、慎重にMacBookを閉じてもう一度裏返します。

    • 前端から起こして、上部ケース/ディスプレイアセンブリを約90度の角度まで持ち上げ、 手で固定する必要がないように、安定した頑丈な衝立に立てかけます。

    • 上部ケースを固定するためトラックパッドの近くにテープを貼り、不用意な動きを防ぎます。

    • MacBookを完全に開き、両側を水平に配置することもできます。しかし、この状態の場合、フレックスケーブルが損傷する可能性があるため、お勧めしません。

  11. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 12、 1の画像 1
    • バッテリーコネクタをロジックボードに固定している2.9 mmのT5トルクスネジを1本取り外します。

    From my experience it’s important to carefully press and hold the small button above left of the Battery Discharge label. Use a plastic spudger or finger tip. The illuminated yellow LED to the right will go off. I believe this discharges remaining electricity from logic board protecting it during repair.

    * I cannot find any documentation to support this, but I have damaged boards by not including this step.

    Chris Leeds - 返信

    What is with the all plastic end of this cable that appears to just be glued right on top of its connector?

    Does the new one just stick back right on top?

    (In this photo it is the bottom side of the cable below the white water indicator sticker)

    Elizabeth Erkelens - 返信

    • 追加の予防策として、ロジックボードとバッテリーコネクタの間にバッテリー絶縁ピックを挿入して、バッテリーを物理的に外すことができます。

    What happen if you don’t disconnect the battery? I didn’t and I saw smoke coming out when I connected the pad flex cable and the computer still started up

    DSANTIAGOSOY - 返信

    If you don’t disconnect the battery you might accidentally short something on the logic board since power is still running through everything while you’re working on it. You can complete the repair without disconnecting the battery, but you risk accidentally breaking your logic board. It’s much safer to keep the battery disconnected while you’re working.

    Adam O'Camb -

  12. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換, USB-C/オーディオジャックの取り外し: 手順 14、 1の画像 1
    • USB-Cポートケーブルのブラケットを固定している2本のネジを取り外します。

    • 1.1mm #00 プラスネジ

    • 3.5 mm T5トルクネジ

    I’m at this point and the 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw won’t budge and now I fear it could be stripped? Now what???

    Y'vonne Feeney - 返信

    You could try to cover the tip of your screwdriver with a thin rubber glove to improve the grip on the screw while applying a little more downward force for the initial jolt. That might loosen the screw.

    Tobias Isakeit -

    The USB-C ribbon cable breaks very easily when being attached. Any particular tricks for ensuring that it won’t snap somewhere while being installed?

    bfg737 - 返信

    With my iFixit screwdriver kit, these were Philips #000, not #00.

    Paul Nishikawa - 返信

    This was #000 for me as well

    Adam Hupp - 返信

    I was at the 1.1 mm and couldn't get it open with the 00. I ordered the 000 but it still won't budge. I tried the glove idea and as much pressure as I'm comfortable giving. I'm pretty sure the screw is stripped. Any ideas or advice or am I in trouble?

    johnny gutierrez - 返信

  13. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 15、 2の画像 1 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 15、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの平らな端を使って、USB-Cポートケーブルのブラケットをロジックボードからまっすぐ持ち上げて外します。

    • このケーブルを再接続するには、最初に金属製ブラケットをネジ穴に合わせてから、ブラケットの中央を押し下げます。 正しく位置合わせされていることを確認してください。正しく配置されていないと、コネクタが損傷する場合があります。

    At re-assembling, when you reconnect this cable, pressing centre of metal plat is extremely important. You should feel tiny click when it connected properly. I encountered unrecognised external HDD and external monitor through USB-C even though charging in/out was OK, i.e failure of data transmission. I needed to re-open the back cover and pressed the metal plate again, then USB-C connection worked properly.

    Aki Mochi - 返信

  14. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 16、 2の画像 1 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 16、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーを使用して、オーディオジャックボードケーブルのZIFコネクターを保持しているフラップを裏返します。

  15. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 17、 1の画像 1
    • オーディオジャックボードのリボンケーブルを、ZIFコネクタからまっすぐ引き抜いて取り外します。

    • 再組み立て中、写真のように白いストライプのある側が手前になるようにリボンケーブルを向けます。

    • この時点で、フレックスケーブルに損傷を与えることなく、Macbookを完全に開き、テーブルの上に平らに置くことができます。

    Make sure at reassembly that you insert the ribbon cable in to the jack board fully. It seems to take an extra push. The white line should disappear when it is seated properly. I didn’t get it in all the way by a fraction of a mm and had no sound (internal speakers weren’t even recognized). Went back and seated the cable fully and sound was back.

    Timothy Dinkelman - 返信

    I had that same problem, too.

    lyonmissions - 返信

    Had the same problem, (no audio after reassembly) it did have the startup chime though.
    after re-seating the ribbon cable, it worked for a few days, but then nothing after waking up.
    not even the startup chime.
    Any body got pointers on how to check if i broke the cable or the board? (looks fine...)

    Christian Stanner - 返信

  16. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換, 下部ケースアセンブリの取り外し: 手順 18、 2の画像 1 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換, 下部ケースアセンブリの取り外し: 手順 18、 2の画像 2
    • ピンセットを使って、ディスプレイケーブルコネクタを覆っているテープをはがします

    I won’t have my daughter’s MacBook with its banana encrusted USB-C port until she returns home during spring break — just doing some homework before then. But if the case can lie flat after the audio board ZIF cable is detached, why do you need to detach the display cable connector (Steps 19-24)? It seems that you could jump straight to Step 25 to replace the USB-C port and avoid those steps.

    John Conklin - 返信

    Hi John, disconnecting the display cable is not necessary, but is recommended to avoid accidental damage to the cable during the rest of the procedure. If you feel confident in the safety of the cable then you can skip ahead. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    I skipped ahead to step 25 successfully by making a secure stand for the display and being careful to not strain cables. If you are decently motor skilled this saves you 15 minutes or so. Not recommended if you live with cats who love little screws to chase

    abscate - 返信

  17. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 19、 2の画像 1 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 19、 2の画像 2
    • テープに装着したまま、ディスプレイケーブルコネクタのメタル製保持フラップが開いてしまう可能性があります

    • その場合は、ピンセットでテープを剥がしながら、スパッジャーの平らな端を使用して保持フラップを押し込みます。

  18. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 20、 1の画像 1
    • スパッジャーの平らな端を使って、ディスプレイケーブルコネクターの保持フラップを開きます

    • テープに触れないようにしてください。さもないと、再付着してケーブルの取り外しが困難になります

    I found it helpful to stick one of the triangular picks in between the table and the retaining flap to keep them separated.

    Kofi Kantanka - 返信

    • スパッジャーの平らな端をディスプレイケーブルの下に慎重にスライドさせて、下部ケースに固定させている接着剤から離します。

    • ケーブルを傷つけないように注意してください。接着剤が非常に硬い場合は、ケーブル直下のケースをiOpenerで温めて、接着剤を柔らかくしてから、もう一度試してください。

    Great, another new fragile display cable to deal with. Thanks Apple.

    maccentric - 返信

  19. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 22、 1の画像 1
    • ディスプレイケーブルをコネクタからまっすぐゆっくりと引き出して取り外します。

    • 保持フラップを直ぐに閉じます。

    • 再組み立て中にケーブルを再挿入する場合、フラップは閉じたままにしておく必要があります。ゴールドの接点を下に向けてケーブルを並べ、閉じた状態のコネクタに向けて慎重にスライドして差し込みます。ケーブルを圧着したり損傷したりしないように注意してください。完全に挿入すると、側面のくぼみが見えなくなります。

    I’m pretty sure I understand the instructions here, but I had to think about it a little longer because “… must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly …” was not clear to me right away. The retaining flap I discovered, is super delicate, and hence my paranoia, so I wanted to point this out in case anyone else felt like me: ''''Is it correct to assume that your instructions could be interpreted as:

    “After disconnecting the cable, close the retaining flap for now to avoid damaging it. When reinstalling the cable, flip up the retaining flap once again, realign and slide the cable with gold contacts facing down.”

    I bent the USB-C corner of the lower case from a short drop onto laminate flooring, so in I went to shape it so the edge wouldn’t snag or scratch things. I am typing on my MacBook that received the body work.

    Thank you for your guidance!

    John Torquido - 返信

    For @seriouslyjohn and anyone else who might be wondering: “the flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted” means keep it closed. Do not reopen the flap to insert the cable; just insert it carefully while leaving the flap closed. I know it probably runs counter to the procedure you’re used to, but Apple’s documentation is very clear on this, and I have to think it’s for a reason. My advice is to follow the instructions as written and don’t try to reinterpret them ;) Congrats on a successful repair!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Oops! I most definitely did NOT reinsert the cable into a closed connector. We can only wonder why Apple instructed this step to be counter-intuitive. I’ll pay closer attention to any weirdness that may arise, but the MacBook has been traveling and performing as it should; I’m going to avoid reopening the case, as easy as it is, until I have a good reason to do so. Thank you for replying and updating the guide!

    John Torquido - 返信

    I would argue that you should NOT close the retaining flap. I followed the directions to the letter, and when I started up the MacBook, the display did not register since the I wasn’t able to reseed the cable fully without worrying about tearing the cable. I did hear the computer charging and saw that the keyboard lit up, so I knew the MacBook was working besides the display. I looked up another video on Youtube that left the retaining flap open when reinstalling, so I took apart the Macbook again and tried it that way, and IT WORKED! The cable wasn’t fully reseated with the retainer open and I’m not sure if that was my fault or not, but with the retainer flap open, it was easier to see that. My 2 cents. Good luck everyone!

    Sulmo Kim - 返信

    I initially tried inserting the cable with the retaining flap closed (as described), however after completing reassembly the MacBook could be heard to start but without any display action (no backlight, no graphics - also tried resetting the SMC). Being suspicious of this step based on the comments above, I tried re-inserting the cable with the retaining flap open before subsequently closing the flap. It may have just been my perception but insertion with the retaining flap open certainly appeared to result in a more robust mating of cable and connector. After reassembly and reset of the SMC I at least saw backlight action although no graphics still. A subsequent boot into to diagnostics mode resulted in the graphics coming to life.

    Maybe my re-insertion while the retaining flap was closed was not quite correct (although I was certainly trying to be careful), but my experience was that success was achieved making the cable insertion while the retaining flap was open.

    Paul Richards - 返信

    It is kind of nice that I don't have to worry about that. The screen cable is literally plug & play. Super easy.

    lyonmissions - 返信

  20. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 23、 1の画像 1
    • 上部ケースアセンブリを下部ケースアセンブリから離します

  21. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換, オーディオジャックボード: 手順 24、 2の画像 1 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換, オーディオジャックボード: 手順 24、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーを使って、デュアルマイクアセンブリのリボンケーブル用のZIFコネクタ固定フラップを跳ね上げます。

  22. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 25、 2の画像 1 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 25、 2の画像 2
    • コネクタからマイクアセンブリのリボンケーブルをまっすぐ引き抜き、接続を外します。

    Does anyone know were I can buy the “microphone assembly ribbon cable“? It is the most delicate cable and cant seem to find spare part.

    Vernon Roth - 返信

  23. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 26、 1の画像 1
    • オーディオジャックボードをケースに固定している3.2mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。

  24. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 27、 1の画像 1
    • オーディオジャックボードを取り外します。

    After jack replacement my internal speakers stop working. Any solution?

    piotr2503 - 返信

    There must be a bad contact in the jack socket or the card has been damaged, the sound therefore remains blocked on it

    Ludovic - 返信

  25. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換, USB-Cポート: 手順 28、 1の画像 1
    • USB-Cポートを固定している2.5 mm #00 プラスネジを2本外します。

    I didn’t notice this when removing the USB-C port, but it seems to be a little loose under the screws. I have another MacBook of the same vintage and found that its USB-C port also has a little movement when a cable is plugged in. Not much movement, just a little.

    woikelaw - 返信

    I missed this comment when I did this job but observed the same

    No apparent effect on function

    abscate - 返信

    It would have been a help to have pointed out that actually folding the end of this ribbon cable at the USB C end, as shown in your pictures, before attaching it will help to prevent the cable breaking at one of its inner corners while being installed.

    bfg737 - 返信

    As with my comment above, for me, these were #000 not #00. Other than that, if you work slowly and deliberately, you will find the right angle. It does go in without any force, but you have to find the right way.

    Paul Nishikawa - 返信

  26. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 29、 3の画像 1 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 29、 3の画像 2 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 29、 3の画像 3
    • ピンセットを使用して、ヒンジのネジの真上でUSB-Cポートを持ち上げます。

    • ポートを取り外すために、ディスプレイヒンジの上に引き上げスライドさせます。

    • USB-Cポートを取り外す、および取り付けるとき、ほとんど隙間がありません。十分なスペースがない場合、無理に押し込まないでください。必要に応じて、隙間を確保するため、ディスプレイのヒンジのネジを外し、ヒンジを動かしてみてください。

    Successful completion of USBC in 20 minutes with following notes

    1 the replacement part has to have the ribbon folded to match the original or will it foul the display case large screw. You know this when you can’t put the two big Pentalobe screws in on the final case install

    2 my USBC part looks identical to the original, but the port has some motion even with the screws tight. I’m wondering about this a bit. I’m confident I did not cross thread the screws.

    i measure the thickness of the original USB C port board at the two Phillips screws as 325 microns +_25 umicrons

    abscate - 返信

    I found the same problem with the new part moving a lot after installation even with the screws tight, and realised the problem is the new part does not come with the black rubber seal that goes around the connector (you can see it in pic 3 step 25). I moved that across from the old part to the new one and now it seems very tight.

    Gabriele Nicotra - 返信

    Step 25 only has one pic

    John M -

    He means 3rd pic of step 26.

    dmjenks -

    If you are removing the screen (to replace the top case, for example), do this step afterwards. It is much easier this way.

    maccentric - 返信

    No luck, the port seems to be wedged in behind the computer’s hinge. But you need to remove USBC port BEFORE you remove the display. Soooooooo any other tips?

    The screws on the hinge aren’t in the way, it’s hitting right up near the edge of the computer itself.

    John M - 返信

    remove the two screws under the rubber piece to disconnect the display. I didn’t have to completely remove it, just enough to slide the pieces in and out

    Seth Ferguson -

    totally worked! saved me about $550 doing it myself so you have my eternal gratitude

    Seth Ferguson - 返信

    I found it impossible to remove the USB type C port during this step and instead continued with the next 2 steps and after separating the display found that the USB type C port was effortlessly removed……hope that helps someone

    Steve Harris - 返信

    I think it’s a pretty $@$*!& tutorial. Sorry to be blunt.

    It is essentially missing about 3 final steps that show the replacement piece so one can appreciate it.

    I read the tutorial, thought it’s all clear and then bought the piece except it was an incomplete piece. Since the tutorial is missing the last three steps, I could not judge the piece and essentially got lured buying an incomplete piece.

    Mark Schira - 返信

    I don’t understand why here in this picture it looks like the black ribbon is turning away from the port but for the piece I bought, die black ribbon goes in the same direction as the port: Retina MacBook 2016 の分解 .

    Miriam Guth - 返信

  27. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換, ディスプレイアセンブリ: 手順 30、 3の画像 1 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換, ディスプレイアセンブリ: 手順 30、 3の画像 2 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換, ディスプレイアセンブリ: 手順 30、 3の画像 3
    • ディスプレイケーブルアセンブリを固定している3.3mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。

    • 右側のネジの下にある小さな固定ブラケットをなくさないように注意してください。緩んでしまった場合は、ここで示す向きに注意して再組み立てしてください。外側の左端にある小さなタブは、穴の開いた金属シールドの下に引っ掛けられる必要があります。

  28. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 31、 1の画像 1
    • ディスプレイを完全に開きます。

    • 図のように、MacBookの右端をディスプレイが反対側になるように置きます。

    I found putting the laptop keyboard down on the edge of a table (With screen open, and going down the side of the table) To be easier. It allowed me to put in the torque needed in unscrewing the screen.

    Michael Daken - 返信

  29. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 32、 2の画像 1 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 32、 2の画像 2
    • ディスプレイのヒンジを固定している4つの4.8 mm T8トルクスネジを外します。

    • ヒンジのネジにはゴム製のカバーが付いている場合があります。ネジを外す前にこれを取り外し、再組み立て中に交換してください

    The screws were tight and my cheapo torx driver from Amazon was not up to the task. Bought a good one and the screws came out easily.

    bredelet - 返信

  30. Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 33、 3の画像 1 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 33、 3の画像 2 Retina MacBook 2016ディスプレイアセンブリの交換: 手順 33、 3の画像 3
    • 片方の手でディスプレイアセンブリを持ち、もう一方で上部ケースを持ち、それらを一緒に少し押して、ヒンジを上部ケースのくぼみから外します。

    • ヒンジとケースの間の遊びは数ミリだけあれば良いので、遠くまで押す必要はありません。

    • ディスプレイを静かに引きながら、上部ケースを前方に押します。

    • 2つのディスプレイヒンジが上部ケースから外れたら、ディスプレイを取り外して脇に置きます。

    I had to give the screen just a little force here, for it to pop out. Its an incredibly tight fit.

    Michael Daken - 返信

終わりに

デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください

21 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Adam O'Camb

メンバー登録日: 2015年04月11日

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418のガイドは作成済み

11 件のコメント

Hi, I did the tutorial and everything worked out except for one thing. My Macbook isn’t detecting when I close it and open it. I would like some help, does anyone know how to solve it?

Arthur Rezende de Faria - 返信

will a 2015 screen work on a 2016 machine?

Mac Simple - 返信

did you ever find the answer to this? I have a 2016 machine and looking for a new screen.

Omar Ramirez -

I followed the instructions, seemingly without problems, but the laptop won’t power up now. I have disassembled and reassemble twice, but haven’t found anything obviously missed or out of place. Any ideas on what might be preventing it from charging and restarting?

E.D. van Eerten - 返信

hi E.D. I had the same problem,but i got it to reboot with the help here https://www.macworld.co.uk/how-to/mac/ma... this

Dominik Ziegler - 返信

Thank you. Although I had plugged the computer in for 30 minutes and tried the SMC reboot several times unsuccessfully, I left it plugged in. After charging all day, it is actually working again. Phew! I assume that in my reassembly I tightened/connected something better and it needed the full charge to get it operational.

E.D. van Eerten -

Terrific guide! I was able to replace a broken display with a used one from eBay for $200. I purchased the iFixit essential toolkit. The only step that gave me trouble was step #29. I had to remove the screws from the hinge, as recommended. However, there was still not enough room. I just wiggled it for a while until it magically got free. Putting it back in was the same problem.

Pankaj Surana - 返信

Isn’t the rest of the disassemble missing? This just shows how to take the top part off, far from showing how replace the LED panel, glass or other elements of the display assembly.

Finn Renard - 返信

This is to replace the entire ‘display assembly’ not elements of it.

Dominik Ziegler -

I cracked the screen on my laptop by dropping it. Ordered a replacement off ebay and used these instructions to change. These are really good instructions. I was a little nervous since it didn’t have the instructions for putting the new one on, but once you take it off, it makes sense how to put the new one on. I was afraid it wouldn’t turn on given some of the comments, but I plugged mine in for about 30 minutes and then it booted up with no issues! Thanks so much for such great instructions!

Michelle Eble - 返信

Be EXTREMELY careful around that USB C port! I strongly recommend removing the hinge screws and opening that hinge to get enough clearance to slide the port out without any resistance. It's very easy to damage and a new one is about $150

Chris Wilson - 返信

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