はじめに
このガイドを参照して、お持ちのRetina MacBook 2016のロジックボードを交換しましょう。
必要な工具と部品
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下部ケースを固定する以下8本のネジを取り外します。
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2本の1.8 mm P5ペンタローブネジ
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4本の2.9 mm P5ペンタローブネジ
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2本の6.1 mm P5ペンタローブネジ
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上部ケースとディスプレイを一緒に前端から持ち上げ、約45°の角度まで起こします。
This displays two black pics to prop up the MacBook, but the kit only includes one black pic.
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、小さなゴールドの”バッテリーの切断”ボタンを長押しします。
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電源LEDが点灯している場合、LEDが消えるまでボタンを長押しして離します。 これには最大10秒かかります。
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LEDが点灯していない場合、5〜10秒後にボタンを離します。 再度、5〜10秒間押し続けてから離します。 最後に、3回目として5〜10秒間押し続けてから離します。
cannot turn on the led after replacing the new screen, even after following the turn on instructions upper…
on reassembly, I had to plug my laptop in to reactivate the LED light
After reassembly I could not restart my MacBook using the power button or after SMC reset (shift-ctrl-option-pwr). I had to connect my MacBook to its charging cable to get the battery LED to re-illuminate. After that it was all normal.
mine doesnt turn on w anything, i forgot to click the buton to disconnect :_/
Same issue as above peeps. Followed ifixit directions verbatim and wasn't getting anything after screwing everything back in. Plugged in original 45W power block and waited, after few minutes battery LED came on and a min. or two after that, was able to get screen to turn on. Hope this helps somebody else.
May I ask how to get screen to turn on. I cannot get it work..
For those whose Mac won't turn on.
See step 16
To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then "PRESS DOWN" on the middle of the bracket.
There is a connector under the bracket, which you can't see if you don't see under.
Not having it in mind, you will not PRESS DOWN the middle of the bracket and there is no connect.
hls2005 -
Thank you @Xiubo Zhang - This solved my problem! Please everyone check this connector if you have trouble turning your Macbook on after replacing the battery.
Miksu -
There needs to be mention of procedure for getting the repaired MacBook to power up again after the repair is completed.
I also am running into the issue described by others. MB will not come on again, even after being plugged into power and performing an SMC reset.
Kinda stuck….
Hi, I tried everything and my MacBook will not start up after replacing the bottom case with a battery installed. I decided to put back on the old case with the battery that needs servicing and it still will not power on. I am fairly experienced taking apart laptops I was an Apple service tech for 15 years. this has me baffalled. Any hints BTY the logic board does not show any power coming from the AC charger the power LED is not lit up
I had trouble with this as well. What worked for me is to plug in power using the stock 29W USB C power brick that originally came with this Macbook. Trying other, lower powered, power adapters did not work. Use this advice with caution as there are multiple (i.e substantiated) comments that indicate that first power up should only be with a 5W adapter! So perhaps try this strict sequence: try with a 5W adapter, then and only then try with the 29W adapter. Or even slightly better, if everything else has completely failed, only then try full power 29W adapter.
How long did you wait to get it power back on? I replaced my logic board and tried to connect the power charger but it doesnt still turn on.
Herb -
The easiest error to make when working on this motherboard if applying full voltage after re-assembly. According to the big A, the motherboard on these Macbooks need to be “woken up” with a 5 watt (phone size) charger. Applying the normal 29 watts may render your system unusable.
Hello Noah,
It seems your remark is only valid for the 2015 and not the 2016 edition.
While it’s true that the internal documentation specifies this for a 2015, after frying 2 motherboards with a normal charger, I spoke with the engineers and they told me that this also applies to 2016 and 2017 macbook main logic boards. I say- It can’t hurt to try to wake them up with a 5 watt charger first! Please take 5 minutes to save your motherboard.
I plugged in my charger and the LED came on. The computer gets warm but the screen is not turning on. The keyboards doesn’t seem to respond to recovery options. Any suggestions?
After reassembly I could not restart my MacBook using the power button or after SMC reset (shift-ctrl-option-pwr). I had to connect my MacBook to its charging cable to get the battery LED to re-illuminate. After that it was all normal.
I had basically this when doing a screen replacement (and the ZIF connector ribbon which basically crumbled to dust as I touched it). Including no sound, no light, no boot, no logos, I had a USB connected sound once when plugging it into my windows PC which i guess confirmed it wasnt totally fried, but I had left it plugged in to a few different chargers (not the 20w or whatever one since I read it could damage it if it was not powering normally. could be total BS) and had it sit from 15-30 minutes on each. all nearly no sign of life, though one re-disassembly showed the previously unlit power LED was on again. I went to let it sit on the officical charger overnight thinking it was dead, but it just randomly booted and is working fine now. TLDR be patient with apples BS.
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ピンセットを使用して、トラックパッドケーブルのZIFコネクタを覆っているテープをはがします。
Where can I find a replacement cable?
John Comix - 返信
Just worked on one that was missing the tape from the factory, so yours may not have it either.
maccentric - 返信
that cable got damaged, and now my macbook won't turn on anymore. Does this cable prevent the macbook from working?
I have the same issue. Th trackpad cable snapped while I was replacing the LCD screen. I have ordered a new cable from Amazon but I am not sure if that would cause the laptop to not power up (it's not power related)
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スパッジャーを使用して、トラックパッドケーブルのZIFコネクタ上の固定フラップを慎重に持ち上げます。
I flipped up the small retainer -- but when I tried to flip it down, it flew off. The tabs that mount the retainer are very small, and I couldn't get it back on. Left it out, taped down the cable.... and so far the computer, battery, and trackpad are working.
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バッテリーコネクタをロジックボードに固定している2.9 mmのT5トルクスネジを1本取り外します。
From my experience it’s important to carefully press and hold the small button above left of the Battery Discharge label. Use a plastic spudger or finger tip. The illuminated yellow LED to the right will go off. I believe this discharges remaining electricity from logic board protecting it during repair.
* I cannot find any documentation to support this, but I have damaged boards by not including this step.
I don't know what guide your on, but step 6 of the guide to replacing the USB-C cable has you press this button (3 times even).
What is with the all plastic end of this cable that appears to just be glued right on top of its connector?
Does the new one just stick back right on top?
(In this photo it is the bottom side of the cable below the white water indicator sticker)
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追加の予防策として、ロジックボードとバッテリーコネクタの間にバッテリー絶縁ピックを挿入して、バッテリーを物理的に外すことができます。
What happen if you don’t disconnect the battery? I didn’t and I saw smoke coming out when I connected the pad flex cable and the computer still started up
If you don’t disconnect the battery you might accidentally short something on the logic board since power is still running through everything while you’re working on it. You can complete the repair without disconnecting the battery, but you risk accidentally breaking your logic board. It’s much safer to keep the battery disconnected while you’re working.
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USB-Cポートケーブルのブラケットを固定している2本のネジを取り外します。
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1.1mm #00 プラスネジ
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3.5 mm T5トルクネジ
I’m at this point and the 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw won’t budge and now I fear it could be stripped? Now what???
You could try to cover the tip of your screwdriver with a thin rubber glove to improve the grip on the screw while applying a little more downward force for the initial jolt. That might loosen the screw.
With my iFixit screwdriver kit, these were Philips #000, not #00.
I was at the 1.1 mm and couldn't get it open with the 00. I ordered the 000 but it still won't budge. I tried the glove idea and as much pressure as I'm comfortable giving. I'm pretty sure the screw is stripped. Any ideas or advice or am I in trouble?
Got stuck here too. Bought a Chinese laptop/phone servicing kit and guess what? No 1.1mm philips. The 1.2mm it does include doesn’t sit tightly enough. Had to order separately….
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スパッジャーの平らな端を使って、USB-Cポートケーブルのブラケットをロジックボードからまっすぐ持ち上げて外します。
At re-assembling, when you reconnect this cable, pressing centre of metal plat is extremely important. You should feel tiny click when it connected properly. I encountered unrecognised external HDD and external monitor through USB-C even though charging in/out was OK, i.e failure of data transmission. I needed to re-open the back cover and pressed the metal plate again, then USB-C connection worked properly.
After this step, I flipped the Macbook over once more and opened it up 90 degrees, supported on the back. Proceeded directly to step 25. Seems safer, those fragile connectors and flimsy cables give me heebie jeebies.
maccentric - 返信
I endorse maccentric's comment above. I think it's better to remove the battery (carefully) with the logic board in place. I did that and the computer works fine after reassembly.
In fact, I removed a couple more cables than this step, but got creeped out by the many delicate cables being moved, and user comments about failed disconnect and reconnect, so I skipped to step 25 lower down. -
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オーディオジャックボードのリボンケーブルを、ZIFコネクタからまっすぐ引き抜いて取り外します。
Make sure at reassembly that you insert the ribbon cable in to the jack board fully. It seems to take an extra push. The white line should disappear when it is seated properly. I didn’t get it in all the way by a fraction of a mm and had no sound (internal speakers weren’t even recognized). Went back and seated the cable fully and sound was back.
I had that same problem, too.
Had the same problem, (no audio after reassembly) it did have the startup chime though.
after re-seating the ribbon cable, it worked for a few days, but then nothing after waking up.
not even the startup chime.
Any body got pointers on how to check if i broke the cable or the board? (looks fine...) -
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ピンセットを使って、ディスプレイケーブルコネクタを覆っているテープをはがします
I won’t have my daughter’s MacBook with its banana encrusted USB-C port until she returns home during spring break — just doing some homework before then. But if the case can lie flat after the audio board ZIF cable is detached, why do you need to detach the display cable connector (Steps 19-24)? It seems that you could jump straight to Step 25 to replace the USB-C port and avoid those steps.
Hi John, disconnecting the display cable is not necessary, but is recommended to avoid accidental damage to the cable during the rest of the procedure. If you feel confident in the safety of the cable then you can skip ahead. Good luck with the repair!
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スパッジャーの平らな端を使って、ディスプレイケーブルコネクターの保持フラップを開きます
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テープに触れないようにしてください。さもないと、再付着してケーブルの取り外しが困難になります
I found it helpful to stick one of the triangular picks in between the table and the retaining flap to keep them separated.
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スパッジャーの平らな端をディスプレイケーブルの下に慎重にスライドさせて、下部ケースに固定させている接着剤から離します。
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ディスプレイケーブルをコネクタからまっすぐゆっくりと引き出して取り外します。
I’m pretty sure I understand the instructions here, but I had to think about it a little longer because “… must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly …” was not clear to me right away. The retaining flap I discovered, is super delicate, and hence my paranoia, so I wanted to point this out in case anyone else felt like me: ''''Is it correct to assume that your instructions could be interpreted as:
“After disconnecting the cable, close the retaining flap for now to avoid damaging it. When reinstalling the cable, flip up the retaining flap once again, realign and slide the cable with gold contacts facing down.”
I bent the USB-C corner of the lower case from a short drop onto laminate flooring, so in I went to shape it so the edge wouldn’t snag or scratch things. I am typing on my MacBook that received the body work.
Thank you for your guidance!
For @seriouslyjohn and anyone else who might be wondering: “the flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted” means keep it closed. Do not reopen the flap to insert the cable; just insert it carefully while leaving the flap closed. I know it probably runs counter to the procedure you’re used to, but Apple’s documentation is very clear on this, and I have to think it’s for a reason. My advice is to follow the instructions as written and don’t try to reinterpret them ;) Congrats on a successful repair!
Oops! I most definitely did NOT reinsert the cable into a closed connector. We can only wonder why Apple instructed this step to be counter-intuitive. I’ll pay closer attention to any weirdness that may arise, but the MacBook has been traveling and performing as it should; I’m going to avoid reopening the case, as easy as it is, until I have a good reason to do so. Thank you for replying and updating the guide!
I would argue that you should NOT close the retaining flap. I followed the directions to the letter, and when I started up the MacBook, the display did not register since the I wasn’t able to reseed the cable fully without worrying about tearing the cable. I did hear the computer charging and saw that the keyboard lit up, so I knew the MacBook was working besides the display. I looked up another video on Youtube that left the retaining flap open when reinstalling, so I took apart the Macbook again and tried it that way, and IT WORKED! The cable wasn’t fully reseated with the retainer open and I’m not sure if that was my fault or not, but with the retainer flap open, it was easier to see that. My 2 cents. Good luck everyone!
I initially tried inserting the cable with the retaining flap closed (as described), however after completing reassembly the MacBook could be heard to start but without any display action (no backlight, no graphics - also tried resetting the SMC). Being suspicious of this step based on the comments above, I tried re-inserting the cable with the retaining flap open before subsequently closing the flap. It may have just been my perception but insertion with the retaining flap open certainly appeared to result in a more robust mating of cable and connector. After reassembly and reset of the SMC I at least saw backlight action although no graphics still. A subsequent boot into to diagnostics mode resulted in the graphics coming to life.
Maybe my re-insertion while the retaining flap was closed was not quite correct (although I was certainly trying to be careful), but my experience was that success was achieved making the cable insertion while the retaining flap was open.
It is kind of nice that I don't have to worry about that. The screen cable is literally plug & play. Super easy.
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ピンセットを使って、2つのZIFコネクタ（1つは右スピーカーケーブル用、もう1つはオーディオジャックボードケーブル用）を覆っているテープを剥がします
Removing the logicboard must be safer way, but battery replacement can be accomplished if you skip here to step 32, and omit 36.
I'm not sure removing the logic board is safer, you have many more opportunities to break something. I left it connected but removed the screws so I could maneuver the battery underneath. Faster and safer imo.
I would strongly advise anyone tempted to follow this advice and skip to 36 to NOT DO THAT. The hardest part of this whole project is removing the old batteries and adhesive. You’re going to want to use the adhesive remover liberally. Getting that on your board, or accidentally gashing at it when you’re trying to wedge out the old battery, is going to ruin it. Trust me, you would hate to go through all this just to find out you fried your board because of this (admittedly tempting) comment. There are seemingly a lot of steps from here to 36, but they’re all pretty easy and fast. KEEP GOING! KEEP FOLLOWING THE INSTRUCTIONS. YOU WILL MAKE IT!
RDG -
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ツル首タイプのピンセット片方を、最初のアンテナコネクタの金属の下に差し込み、こじ上げて外します。
The supplied tweezer is no good. You need one with grooves as shown in the picture. When re-inserting the antenna connectors, make sure that they are seated properly before pushing down. If you have magnifying equipment, use that to get visual confirmation. I used tactile feedback from my fingers to discern proper alignment. Try not to force it.
I used the tweezers provided by iFixit. I struggled with both connectors and finally managed to disconnect both, but when I came back to reconnect them, I realized that both connectors on the logic board were loose. Long story short, it turns out that my little exciting adventure changing the battery cost me $530 to send it for repair at Apple Care. I am quite good at troubleshooting Mac and used to work for Apple for many years. This one step is more dangerous than it seems, because you can end up like me, without wifi on your mac. Honestly, for those who think they can do it, think twice. You can thank me later…
For me this step was the only point where I had a bit of trouble. The supplied tweezers were not the best for disconnecting the antenna connectors as Ki Park points out already. In my case the outer ring of one of the connectors on the logic board bended slightly. It bended back in place during assembly and the wifi works as normal again after the repair. It is very tricky though, really be careful in this step and use other tools as necessary.
BY FAR THE MOST DANGEROUS PART OF THE JOB!. I broked one connector and spent an hour with high powered magnifiers to try a repair. Wasted an hour on this. Id suggest leaving the logic board in place if possible
Crisis Guy - 返信
F. I broke one
I actually put one of the tweezer tines under the connector and used it as a lever gently to pop the antenna connector off the housing. Worked well, but I had to be super careful not to break anything.
These connectors are incredibly finicky to reinstall. Precise alignment is critical. You can sort of get a sense of when the connectors are properly aligned by trying to slide them side to side with your finger, but mostly it's a case of trial and error. Don't apply excessive force because you risk damaging the edges of the connectors. When properly aligned they don't exactly click, but you do feel them go in.
DO NOT REMOVE THESE. As others have stated these are fragile and finicky to remove and reinstall. Instead, leave them intact and lift up the logic board at a 70 to 80% angle. Use a piece of tape secured to the bottom edge of the computer and the top edge of the logic board to hold it up and out of the way. If you are diligent, you can remove the batteries without touching or messing with the logic board. Use caution, don't get too overzealous, take your time.
tough one - you guys scared me... SOLUTION: HOLD A SECOND TWEEZERS WITH STRAIGHTEDGE ON THE INSIDE EDGE WHILE GENTLY USING PROVIDED POINTY TWEEZER ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE TO PRY UP THE CONNECTOR. FLAT TWEEZER PROVIDES JUST A HINT OF BACK PRESSURE, KEEPS THINGS STRAIGHT WHILE YOU INSERT THE POINTED TIP AND PRY UP GENTLY. INSERT AND LEVER IT UP - I.E. AFTER INSERTION, TWIST THE POINTED END SO PRESSURE IS STRAIGHT UP, FROM UNDER THE MIDDLE OF THE CONNECTOR - DON'T INSERT AND PUSH AWAY FROM YOU. MINE POPPED RIGHT UP THIS WAY (after exploring all other options). IMPORTANT - THE POINTED TIP (PRY SIDE) COMES FROM OUTSIDE OF CASE , OPPOSITE SHOWN IN PICTURE (AS MENTIONED BY PRIOR COMMENTER.). I ACTUALLY NEED RELATIVELY LITTLE PRESSURE USING THIS METHOD TO GET THE CONNECTORS TO POP. INSERT POINTY TIP UNDER THE NARROW SPOT JUST AHEAD OF THE WIRE, BUT BEFORE THE SOCKET
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二つ目のアンテナコネクタをソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げて接続を外します。
Broke a connector. Now what?
chrisadams - 返信
BEWARE - there are no instructions on how to reassemble this. It goes to step 52 - battery installed and that is it. Easy to pull out, almost impossible to put back in afterwards. So STUDY this to get an idea of how to reattach.
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スパッジャーを使って、ロジックボードから左側スピーカーケーブルコネクタをまっすぐ持ち上げて、接続を外します。
Reassembling NOTE. The left speaker cable needs to be below the logic board when screwing in the right screw. Otherwise you will have to backtrack.
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コネクタからトラックパッドケーブルを慎重にまっすぐ引き抜き、ロジックボードから接続を外します。
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再組立ての際は、ZIFコネクタのフラップが跳ね上がっているか確認したあと、ケーブルを再挿入します。
Once the logic board has been replaced, when following these instructions in the reverse order it should be pointed out that the all the flaps are flipped down. A distracted person might try to force in the flat connector before realising that he has to flip up the flap of the new logic board.
Ok, went decent but on reconnecting the trackpad cable which I had to replace, it isn't clear which side goes up and which side goes down. From the photos, it appears the copper coated side is down at least on the logic board. Is this the same on the trackpad connector?
I can't quite find a clear photo of the copper surface position on either end of the ZIF trackpad insertion.
HELP!
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ロジックボードの前端を跳ね上げます。
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ロジックボードを下部ケースに固定しているEMIテープを持ち上げて取り外します。
“Reattach the tape securely during reassembly.”
In my case the tape did not stick properly to the lower case anymore and also came a bit loose from the logic board. Nonetheless my macbook works fine after the repair, so I'm not sure how important the EMI tape is. If I experience problems in the future I might open the macbook up again and check the tape and perhaps reattach it better with some new glue. There is probably special glue needed, so I'll look into that when it becomes an issue.
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ロジックボードを取り外します。
If you are replacing the logic board once the machine has been rebuild the 2015 model has to have a 5W power adapter plugged into the machine first before the full 29W power supply otherwise there is a risk of damaging the logic board. Once the power is supplied the battery disconnect LED will switch on and once this has occurred you can remove the 5W and supply the machine with the full 29W power adapter.
While it’s true that the internal documentation specifies this for a 2015, after frying 2 motherboards with a normal charger, I spoke with the engineers and they told me that this also applies to 2016 and 2017 macbook main logic boards. I say- It can’t hurt to try to wake them up with a 5 watt charger first! Please take 5 minutes to save your motherboard.
Noah -
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デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。
デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。
21 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
7 件のコメント
Following this guide for repair will likely kill your MacBook… just saying.
Best to visit an Apple Authorised Service Provider.
How so? Enlighten us if you would be so kind good sir...
Hortman -
Because this is a Logic Board replacement guide, if I had to guess… I’d say their MacBook is already “dead.” 😉
Are you suggesting that they will damage their newly purchased Logic Board during installation? It’s not unheard of.
Well, hence my MacBook Pro is dead, and a repair would cost about 800€, I think I’ll try. If it fails, I just buy a used one for about the same money.
The easiest error to make when working on this motherboard if applying full voltage after re-assembly. According to the big A, the motherboard on these Macbooks need to be “woken up” with a 5 watt (phone size) charger. Applying the normal 29 watts may render your system unusable.
Hello Noah,
It seems your remark is only valid for the 2015 and not the 2016 edition.
David -
While it’s true that the internal documentation specifies this for a 2015, after frying 2 motherboards with a normal charger, I spoke with the engineers and they told me that this also applies to 2016 and 2017 macbook main logic boards. I say- It can’t hurt to try to wake them up with a 5 watt charger first! Please take 5 minutes to save your motherboard.
Noah -
IMPORTANT. You’re not removing the bottom, yet. This step is solely to separate the panel from its clips, permitting inside access.
Chris Leeds - 返信
The screws go in tangent to the curve of the case. If you aren’t used to handling small hardware try turning the screw counterclockwise while you feel for the hole until you feel it drop, that means the threads have aligned. It takes only light finger torque when they are threaded correctly
abscate - 返信