はじめに

I received this headset at a garage sale. At 10$ the price was right. From comparing picture on the internet this seems to be a H10-36 set. That is the best identification I could find. The headset has seen better days and was well used. Both the left and right dome were loose, the left dome was cracked, and there was a suspicious rattle in the left dome. One of the pins to hold the dome to the stirrup had broken out of the dome. The boom microphone as well as the mic mount on the dome, were missing. The crossover cable had been previously repaired and was just hanging between the left and right dome.

Clearly visible damage on the left dome. Broken dome, missing retainer pin and clip as well as completely missing mic and mount as well as volume control button.
  • Clearly visible damage on the left dome. Broken dome, missing retainer pin and clip as well as completely missing mic and mount as well as volume control button.

  • Close up of the damaged dome.

  • This is the mounting hole for the boom mic

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Since this dome does not have any of the retainer pins or clips, it simply slides out of the fork
  • Since this dome does not have any of the retainer pins or clips, it simply slides out of the fork

  • This view shows the well worn filters (foam)

  • This is the connector for the boom mic.

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  • One more view of the complete headset

  • Start removing the earseal by simply lifting it out of the groove in the dome.

  • Remove the earseal

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  • Remove the foam filter

  • The speaker is now visible with more foam filters

  • Remove the next filter

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  • one more filter removed shows the screws for the speaker.

  • Remove the next filter. Notice the different shapes of the filters.

  • After the filter removal, inside damage of the dome becomes visible. In this case the standoff for the speaker screw was broken off.

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  • Remove the mounting screw for the filter.

  • Lift the speaker out of the dome. The wires are still attached, so do not try to pull to hard.

  • Flip the speaker over to reveal the wire connection and the last filter. Originally this headset will only have three different foam filters

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  • This is the last foam filter. All the wiring will be beneath this filter

  • Here is the complete wiring

    • Crossover cable

    • Microphone cable

    • Main cable (Communication cord)

    • Volume control

    • and more broken pieces. The screw comes from the boom mic guide.

  • Long screw was originally for the speaker, The short screw and washer are from the boom mic guide. Plenty of plastic from the broken standoff inside the dome.

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  • One more look at all the wiring.

  • and here a bit closer. This will be needed for reassembly.

  • Remove the speaker wire by loosening the two slotted screws

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  • Remove the speaker

  • More views of the wiring.

  • Here is the broken standoff with the missing plastic.

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  • First to remove the mic cable. All connections in this headset are soldered. If possible, slide the heat shrink off the soldered connections to separate them with a soldering iron

    • these are the cord clips holding which prevent the cables from being pulled out of the dome.

  • The connections where the heat shrink tubing can not be removed, are cut with a pair of pliers.

  • With the mic cable connected, pull the cable inside the dome to gain easy access to the cord clip

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  • Squeeze the cord clip with a pair of pliers.

  • Remove the cord clip

  • Remove the mic cable

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  • Next remove the crossover cable.

  • If the heatshrink tubing can not be removed from the connection, cut it with a pair of pliers.

  • Pull the cable into the dome

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  • Pull the crossover cable toward the inside of the dome to gain access to the cord clip

  • Place a pair of pliers on the outside tabs of the cord clip

  • by squeezing the pliers shut, the cord clip will expand and can then be easily removed.

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  • With the cord clip removed, simply pull the crossover cable out of the dome.

  • The last connection is the main cable to the volume control potentiometer

  • unsolder that connection (or cut with pair of pliers if unable the heatshrink tubing)

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  • Volume control and main cable are now disconnected .

  • Pull the main cable into thedome to get access to the cord clip.

  • Place a pair of pliers on the long tabs of the cord clip,

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  • by squeezing the pliers shut, the cord clip will widen and come loose

  • remove the main cable.

  • Next use a small jewelers screwdriver and push on edge of the rubber grommet into the dome

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  • carefully work around the grommet pushing it gently into the dome.

  • Remove the grommet

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  • Again use a small jewelers screw driver for the grommet of the crossover cable

  • The elongated grommet for the main cable will have to be removed from the inside out.

  • Here are the two small grommets for the mic and crossover cable, as well as the elongated one for the main cable.

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  • The speaker control potentiometer is held in place with a 5/16 hex nut.

  • remove the hex nut.

  • Remove the volume control from the inside of the dome.

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  • All the cables and parts have now been removed. On the left is the replacement dome.

  • Here is my replacement David Clark Aviation Headset Microphone Mic M101. this is not original for this model headset.

  • Here is the new boom mic guide kit hardware.

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  • Each boom mic guide kit could be different, so follow the instructions the accompany the set.

  • Here is the boom mic guide mounted to the left dome. For the rest of the reassembly, follow this guide in reverse order.

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まとめ

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

4 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

oldturkey03

メンバー登録日: 2010年09月29日

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