はじめに
This guide applies to other oven/range in the 970-XXXXXX (e.g. 970-687633) series.
My oven was not heating up, only the convection element worked (it's on 120VAC).
No 240VAC was present at either the bake or broil element. All elements tested good at 14-25 ohms.
This simple guide will point you to the faulty joint and/or relay, a 5$ part, that will fix your oven.
Be careful and always unplug the oven from the wall outlet when working on it.
I didn't plan on making this guide prior to fixing the oven so don't hesitate to ask questions if needed.
必要な工具と部品
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This won't show you how to diagnose or open the back of your oven, you need enough skill to get here.
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Remove the PWR board by removing the clips. Be careful, you have to pull out "locking" clips with pliers before you can press in the other locking clips. Once you see them you'll figure it out quickly.
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If necessary, you can remove the whole clock assembly by unscrewing the 4 screws.
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Inspect the back of the board. The relay you need to check is the big black one, circled in yellow in Step 1, the T9AV5L12-12.
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If there is a melted solder joint on one contact, and you can hear the relay clicking when you set the oven in BAKE or BROIL mode, this might be the only issue. Resolder the join.
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If the relay needs to be changed, desolder and solder the new one in.
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Reassemble and test the oven.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
14 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
40 件のコメント
Do they have fuses?
OK so lets say that I am new to replacing a relay on a board. I get the concept but have never done it.
Is this something that can be done somewhat easily? or do i risk damaging the rest of the board?
I would appreciate if you have time to respond.
Also what was your problem with the stove initially?
My oven was not heating up, only the convection element worked (it's on 120VAC).
No 240VAC was present at either the bake or broil element. All elements tested good at 14-25 ohms.
It’s easy to replace the relay, just some good soldering work and nothing else can be damaged. Also the relay solder points are large, you wouldn’t need any magnifying equipement that you would need for smaller work.
Patrice, thanks very much for your article. I just fixed my oven control board, and I’d like to add a couple of points for other people who find this page.
(1) On my stove only two of the white connectors were locking. The others just needed wiggling out.
(2) The spade lug feeding L1 was a major pain to get off. The socket is of the locking kind, and in the end I had to open up the top halves of the socket to pull the supply wire away from the board. That was the hardest part of the job (for me today).
(3) I also had one melted joint. I replaced the relay (since I had it now anyway) but I tested the old relay after taking it out and it checks out OK.
I suspect had I just re-soldered the melted connection it would have been fine. (The melted connection is the common 220V leg of the relay, and given how small the 220V pins are, I am guessing that there is too much current through too small a pin and the solder just melts away eventually. A bad part choice by the control board designer, IMHO.)
Thanks Jim (And Patrice).
My oven was not heating up too.
I’ve just repaired the melted connection at the common 220V leg of the relay (without changing relay or any part) and the oven is now working as before. Took one hour and a half. I’ll try to upload a photo of the melted leg Ito show what it’s like.
