• 引きちぎれてしまったケーブルです。

One option is to cut the protruding plastic. Just be careful not to cut the wires inside as these will be soldered to the cable. If this does not work, then you can proceed to opening the casing. I recommend this if you are hesitant to violate the integrity of your adapter.

marcellus124 - 返信

  • AC電源コードの接続を外します。


  • このブルーの線を確認してください。これは電源アダプタの横にまっすぐ走っています。この部分は内部を開口されないように、強力な接着剤で留められています。

  • ナイフでプラスチックの間の隙間をカットします。小さなスペースですが、ナイフを差し込み、周辺全体の接着部分を割きます。

  • この作業はプラスチックの四方をカットしなければならないため、時間がかかります。ほぼ全体に切り込みを入れたら、触感で外れてきていることが確認ができます。

  • この赤で囲まれたコンポーネントにご注意ください。作業中、切断しないように作業は慎重に行ってください。

Die Öffnung klappt relativ gut mit einer O-Ring Zange, ohne Aufschneiderei. Start bei den aufklappbaren Flügeln.

Kay Ackermann - 返信

  • マイナスドライバーの平面側先端を、電源アダプタのプラスチックの間に差し込み、開口します。この作業には少し力が必要です。

  • ドライバーで全面が剥がれても、依然としてまだ蓋が開きません。プラスチックの両面全体に接着剤が着けられているからです。

  • 2番目の画像を参照に、アダプタ上部にドライバーを差し込み、プラスチック製カバーから内側に付けられたフォイルを丁寧に剥がします。アダプタの内部パーツからフォイルを剥がさないようにご注意ください。

A few note's to make it look like new! And without damaging the outside.

Tip1. Flip up the bunny ears and use the back of a lighter (or something else plastic that fits) between the gap and twist it open on both sides.

Tip2. Use a small drill to clean out the rubber cable guide so u can re use it.

Tip3. Use super glue and clamp the charger long enough for the glue to dry. (don't rush it!)

peter van der Leij - 返信

Mine frayed at the computer end. Do you have any instructions for repairing that end?

Jason Smeed - 返信

I used a C ring pliers between the gap to pop it open. Refers to Tip 1

Chaozhouzi Chaozhouzi - 返信

As mentioned above, this is the simplest way to open it: https://youtu.be/Yqa9uUKuddw?t=28s

Max - 返信

  • 前の作業の後、ここではプラスチックケースの一面が外れています。

  • 次に電源コネクター反対側の接着剤を緩めるためにドライバーを使います。

  • まだ外れていないプラスチックケース側にドライバーを差し込み、残りの接着剤を丁寧に剥がします。


  • 作業後は、このようなプラスチックのブロックが手元に残るはずです。プラスチックケースは保管してください。


  • 電源アダプタに付いているケーブル上の小さなプラスチック製パーツを掴みます。

  • このプラスチックのパーツに近いところでケーブルを切断します。


  • ナイフやワイヤーカッターでケーブルからプラスチックを剥ぎ取ります。


  • MacBookに繋げるケーブルを手に取り、ナイフやワイヤカッターでケーブルの外側を剥ぎ取ります。

  • 内部にある白色のケーブルが出てくるまで、縺れを直してワイヤーをまっすぐに伸ばします。

  • 取り分けた外側の白色ケーブル以外を綺麗に巻いて束にし、白色のケーブルは電源アダプタに繋げるため、ケーブルの先端を少し剥がします。


What is the use of the outer wire in the cable ?



Natasha John Williams - 返信

  • 白色のケーブルワイヤを重ね合わせて半田付けします。

  • この電源アダプタから出ている白いケーブルは、MacBookコネクターに繋がっているケーブルの白いワイヤに必ず半田付けしなければなりません。

  • ケーブル上の黒色の絶縁カバーチューブは、後でケーブルを分離するために使います。チューブは温めると縮みます。

  • 一番最後の写真は黒色の絶縁カバーチューブです。適度な長さに調節して切断します。

  • 特に重要な点は両方のワイヤを絶縁しなければなりません。絶対に両方のワイヤを接触しないでください。ショートしてしまいます。

Angenommen ich bin so klug und teste das MacSafe einmal nach dem Zusammenlöten ohne die Kabel zu isolieren . Ich sehe ein Lämpchen. Die Freude ist von kurzer Dauer, denn DDDDDRRRRRRRRRTTTTT beide Kabel berühren sich und es kommt zu funken -.-

ist das Magsafe jetzt hinüber? Gibt es eventuell eine Sicherung? Jemand ähnlich Geniales passiert?


LLK - 返信

What if I short-circuited because of non-isolating the cables? Is the magsafe out of order right now?

LLK - 返信

  • 次の作業は、ACチャージャーからの黒色ケーブルをMacBookコネクターの外側のワイヤに半田付けします。

  • ワイヤを絶縁します。外側ワイヤの延長部分全体をカバーする必要はありません。カバーする部分は、ACアダプターの配線基板や白いケーブルと接触しない長さで十分です。

  • 黒色のラバーチューブか絶縁テープを使います。黒色のチューブを使用する場合、ワイヤをカバーする前に半田付けの熱によってチューブが縮まないように、できるだけチューブを離してください。

Which solder or soldering Iron you guys used? I am trying to do everything with my Goot 40W soldering iron and nothing happens:-

1. I tried to join black wire but my 60/40 solder won't stick to it at all.

2. i tried to replace the whole cable with a new cable bought from Amazon and I am unable to get the joint on PCB to get melted.

Please help!!!!

varun_ag - 返信

  • 半田付けをした白と黒/外側ケーブルの残りを絶縁テープでカバーして巻きます。

  • そしてこれらを絶縁テープで束ねて一つのケーブルを作ります。プラスチックケースの一方にACチャージャーを配置します。

  • MacBookのため、白色の絶縁テープの方が見た目はきれいです。

  • 小サイズの結束バンドを3本取り、ケーブルの周辺に巻きつけて結束し、プラスチックの筐体から飛び出さないようにします。

Very useful instruction. I almost bought an expensive replacement. Thanks! I also tied a knot from the wire before soldering. The knot was small enough to fit in the housing where the "round piece" was. The knot will help reduce the chance that the wires being yanked out if you accidentally trip over it.

hiennguyen - 返信

This guide was great, thank you for saving me the costs of a new charger. I found it was possible to use the original plastic attachment between the cable and the ac adapter for the repair.

I first used a 3mm drill bit and removed the bit of cable in the plastic/rubber piece. I then used a 4mm bit to open the hole further and soften the rubber part of the piece. I then threaded the cable through the piece before soldering in step 10. It makes the fix look more like the charger in the beginning and also prevents the wires being pulled through the opening.

kilian - 返信

  • プラスチックケースの合わさる端にスーパーグルーを少量付けます。ケース周辺の端全体に接着剤を塗布したらAC チャージャーを閉じます。

  • チャージャーのケーブルを巻いているプラスチック製のつまみをお忘れなく…このつまみがケーブルを切断してしまう最大の要因でもです!私はケーブルが再度切断しないように、このつまみをケースに接着剤で取り着けたり、外側に外したままにします。


  • 4本の結束バンドを両側に2本つづ留めて、ケースを固定します。

  • 見た目を良くするために接着剤のみの使用を好む人もいます。しかし、結束バンドを使用するとより安全になります。結束バンドなしで使用したい方は、接着剤を付けた数時間は完全に乾いて両面がしっかりと固定されるまで結束バンドを利用してください。


  • グルーガンを使って、残りの隙間を埋めます。

  • 付けすぎないようにご注意ください。接着剤は外側から隙間がない程度です。

instead of glue, put liquid silicon for bathrooms, that's easier to remove if you need to / however to give a form, when not yet dry, some difficulties ( it sticks on fingers )

Christophe Siekierkowski - 返信

I use my macbook at school and I'm on my 4th charger :( https://vidd.me/SuY

Tess - 返信

instead of glue i suggest Sugru for the finishing touch.. https://sugru.com/

sebastianfrith - 返信

Instead of using the stub wires I soldered the cable ends directly to the PCB. Although it worked I cannot recommend it as the PCB is easily damaged when removing the pins to which the wires are connected. Pulling off a PCB track would step up the difficulty of repair considerably....

bommels - 返信

Kind of mangled the case when prying it off so I just wrapped it up in duct tape. Ghetto, but works.

Ola - 返信

Also ich halte diesen Reparaturweg für KEINESFALLS fachgerecht. Zunächst lässt sich das Netzteil sehr wohl ganz sauber öffnen und mit Kunststoffkleber (Revell) wieder sauber verkleben. Es schadet natürlich nicht, das Gehäuse zur Sicherheit mit einem Textilband zu verkleben, um 1000% sicher zu sein. Aber doch nicht mit mehreren Kunststoffstrapsen.

Und bitte nicht mit Heißkleber. Wie viele Tage soll das bitte halten? Bei den Rep.-Kabeln sind doch die Gummitüllen dabei und wenn Ihr nur das alte Kabel abschneidet, könnt Ihr die alte Tülle weiter verwenden.

Dann lässt sich das Kabel auch sehr gut in die Platine einlöten. Der Zeitaufwand ist dabei unter 30 Minuten. Nein, schwierig ist das keinesfalls. Es gibt bei Youtube auch ein sehr schönes Video dazu. Also keine Angst, ist ganz leicht. Aber ACHTUNG! An Hochspannungsbauteilen haben nur Leute herumzubasteln, die wissen, was sie tun.

Christian F. - 返信

Thank you very much, just saved myself a decent amount of money!

Conor Martin - 返信


188 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。



Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! 貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Angela Penaherrera

メンバー登録日: 2013年05月06日

11,857 ポイント


Some tips:

* There is a better way to open the enclosure without damaging the edge: using a pliers to push the two sides apart where the bunny ears lift up (google for videos).

* The cable can actually be threaded through the rubber/plastic grommet if you have the patience to remove the broken cable from it and make the two small holes bigger with a drill bit. This can be frustrating but is the only way to keep the original appearance. Be sure to leave enough cable after the grommet for soldering.

* Thin (2-3mm) heat shrink is a good way to insulate the exposed wire after threading it through the grommet.

* If you trust your soldering skills, consider de-soldering the old cables from the terminals.

* Applying a little super glue along the edge and clamping for a few hours is all that is needed to keep it closed permanently.

don - 返信

Thanks for the tips! If you have pictures of the processes please feel free to modify this guide (especially the opening of the enclosure!) ^__^

* I have seen that in some tutorials and I wanted to to drill a hole through the rubber plastic grommet but didn't have a drill at my office =(

* I did consider de-soldering the old cables but that involved de-soldering other components that are attached to copper plates to get to those terminals. In earlier versions of the AC Adapter this can be done with not so much trouble.

I really appreciate your feedback! Thanks!

Angela Penaherrera -

I didn't try that... We actually ended up just heating it to soften the plastic and that worked, wouldn't advise it though

deavisdude -

Same for me, don: see this as a much easier way to open the case: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yqa9uUKu...

Would be nice if you refer to this solution as alternative, befor starting to cut the case.

Thanks for the manual, I just fixed it!

Lukas -

Is it possible to remove the cord entirely from the circuit board and solder new replacement? I have ordered a replacement and I wonder if its safe to do so? Thank you for your prompt response!

Shawn - 返信

Yes it is possible. Depending on the model of your charger you might need to de-solder some copper plates on the bottom of the circuit board in order to be able to reach the spots for soldering the replacement cable.

Angela Penaherrera -

I found out a more elegant way of disassembling this thing, and posted a guide here:

Restoring Apple AC Adapter Broken Cable

Darie H - 返信

Hi! thanks for sharing! I used that guide on another AC charger and was so much easier to take apart!

Angela Penaherrera -

this was so helpful I did a variation of what was described and I'm very happy!!!

jdebrofsky - 返信

This worked great! It literally took me 15 minutes using a dremel tool.

stevenmcconnon - 返信

I managed to reuse original wire hose instead of tape and hot melt glue.

That required some lengthy cleanup of remainders of the wire and some knife work but the charger looks almost as new.

Oleg Urzhumtsev - 返信

Muchas gracias, muy buen material de ayuda

Javito - 返信

Hello i did it and when i plug it into the power my MacBook only charge for like 5 seconds. Can anyone help please?


Sarel Prinsloo - 返信

Hi ! I have the same problem. Did you manage to find the answer ?

John Dupont -

omh my &&^& this is so %#*@ &&^&^$^ helpful thanks a lot man &&^&^$^ thanks

sai sorm - 返信

10 min start to finnish just needed info on opening the case thanks work like new.

bullfrog8910 - 返信

%#*@! Thank you so much for this. My charger is up and running. ;) Cheers!

Ankit Yes - 返信

Mine does't work when I put both sides of the casing back on. Works fine with only one side. I tested the soldered contacts - they are fine. I did rip off some of the tin foil by accident thoug. Any clues?

Simon Schneider - 返信

1.5 hours and very straight forward. I would reiterate the importance of making sure ADAPTER MUST BE UNPLUGGED!! before attempting to remove casing or anything further. I feel like electrical hazards were overlooked in the tutorial.

Joshua - 返信

Joshua, sorry to say that, but do you really think anybody in his right mind would attempt to remove the adapter casing before unplugging the adapter? Is such a thing even possible? You gotta give people some credit. I doubt such morons even exist. If they do, maybe it's best they don't reproduce. Darwin Awards, you know?


I'm attempting to do the repair as well. Just to say, I had two adapters I wanted to repair, one was a 85W: almost impossible to open. It took ages. I cut it with the knife, all around, then took some pliers to it to force it open, I ended up cracking the case. All that before realizing my soldering iron was toast. I was planning on borrowing one so I didn't give up. I took the other adapter, a 45W, this time, no knife, I went directly with the pliers, it opened directly, no damage. I think there are a lot of different versions of the adapters. Depending on the one you get, you might be lucky.

Both of mine, I need to unsolder to open any further. I'll come back with more news.

nessdufrat -

Thanks Angela - a very useful guide. I used a fine toothed saw to open up the power supply and a drill to scour out the plastic stopper. White duck tape to keep it closed after I glued it back again. Sure beats buying a new one! Time spent - 45 minutes.

cshop - 返信

Hello, I recently had the same problem and successfully fixed it using this guide so thanks. However, I'm curios, if the adapter does for some reason short circuit, what's the worst that could happen? Will the damage be in my macbook only or is there a risk that I might damage the whole wirings in the office?

DevMan - 返信

Inspired by this guide. I fixed mine without opening the adapter. I hacksawed the upper part (protruding from the adapter) of the plastic piece connecting the cable to the adapter. Then reconnected the wires as described here (without opening case).

marcellus124 - 返信

Used the pliers method to open. I unsoldered the remaining cable at the supply and resoldered the cable directly to the power supply board. To protect the cable from future damage, I added a strain relief. I drilled a 2 holes in the side of the case, looped a zip tie through, then strapped the cable to the side of the case. Oriented cable so that it lies along the side of the supply rather than sticking straight out. It is possible to use the plug prongs as a guide to wrap the cable around the case. I did not bother putting the bunny ears back on and closed up the supply with tape.

tkarches - 返信

The design of the Apple adapters is such that they will all eventually break with how the cable is attached. If you leave some slack in the cable before wrapping the cable around the ears, it will last much longer.

tkarches - 返信

I think mine must have shorted out before dissassembly. I replaced the charge cable with a new one but the charger must have been damaged when it shorted. Is there like a safety component in the charger that stops charging in the event of a short, and maybe can be replaced??? Can anyone advise??

Eduardo - 返信

Mine process was just fine, but I have one problem. That thing gets unbearably hot now :( Is it because of extra resistance ?

Dominykas Sribikė - 返信

Please check that the connecting wires were insulated correctly and that they are not touching anything internally. That might be a hazard. If it heats up so much I would not use it.

Angela Penaherrera -

Opening the case was a B!tcH. One thing I wish I knew ahead of time was more about the basics of soldering. I chewed through a lot of wire just to practice to get the connection right before I ran out of slack and solder too close to the adapter. Buying a cheapo soldering iron (60-watt) was a waste of time. Buy (or rent) an 100-watt so that you can heat the connection up BELOW the wire. Then you can bring in solder from above so that it melts into the wire!! Just need an hot enough gun.

Sean Sumwalt - 返信

I had a frayed cord, with the conducting metal wire completely detached from the rest of the conducting wire (below the insulating material). If that's the case for you, you can peal off the insulating layer from an old iPhone charger, remove the conducting wire and use it to join the two dead ends on the cord of your macbook charger. Apply some electrical tape on top of it and you now have a working charger!

al 4515 - 返信

there is an easier way to open the case. Get a number 10 spanner and use it to prise off the case below the cable tidy clips. Wedge the outer 'fork' into the near corner of the space below the cable tidy clips and push the spanner away from you. Pop! Off it comes. Takes 2 seconds with very little physical effort. It is similar to the pliers approach but easier to do.

Stephen Ashworth - 返信

I have come across many chargers now. Some open the way you said, some are a pain to open. I believe it varies with the year they were manufactured because some have way more glue than others and have a different setup of the circuit board. I now use a hot air gun to soften the internal adhesive, will update the guide later.

Thanks for your comment!

Angela Penaherrera -

Fire hazard man. I’d just replace it.

brian2burnett - 返信

I’ve managed to accidentally sever the white cord from the circuit board. Is it worth trying to solder it back on?

Guy Hide - 返信

It is, I have repaired chargers by resoldering the wires onto the circuit board. Just make sure that both wires are well isolated from each other.

Angela Penaherrera -

I used epoxy to glue the enclosure back together, and molded Sugru around the cable to close up the gap and provide a flexible but strong sheath for the cable. Looks like it will turn out nicely!

edward - 返信

I don’t own any soldering equipment but I spliced the wires with electrical tape and it works just fine.

JC Albers - 返信

That is far easier to just solder the two leads on the outside without opening the plastic box. Usually there is enough length sticking out of the box for that. Just strip both central wires on two ends (3 mm on each end is enough) and solder them together. Don’t forget to put the isolating shrink-wrap on the wire end before. Better yet, put two isolating shrink-tubes - a smaller one to isolate the central wire and a larger one to cover and hold together the whole thing. First, solder the central wire. Then pull the smaller tube over the connection and heat it to isolate (or use electrical tape). After that solder the mesh. and finally pull the larger tube over the connection and heat-shrink it (or use electrical tape). Done.That is not ideal, but it will work and hold if you don’t pull on it too hard. Can be done in 5 mins, no need to open the box.

Igor Litvinyuk - 返信



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