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必要な工具と部品

  1. , バッテリー: 手順 1、 1の画像 1
    • 作業を始める前に、デバイスの電源が切れているか確認してください。電源が入ったまま作業を始めると、感電やデバイスの損傷を引き起こす可能性があります。

    • 3DSを裏返します。ゲームカード、ヘッドホン、充電ケーブル、スタイラス、その他デバイスに接続しているものがあれば全て外します。

  2. : 手順 2、 1の画像 1
    • JIS #0ドライバーを使って、裏面の黒いネジ2本を緩めます。

    • ネジは脱落防止ワッシャーで固定されているので、完全に外れることはないはずです。

    My experience indicates that a JIS #1 is more appropriate here.

    John Menden - 返信

    Same here, much more appropriate.

    Jack Wilson -

  3. : 手順 3、 1の画像 1
    • いったんネジが緩まったらバックカバーをこじ開けます。

  4. : 手順 4、 1の画像 1
    • バッテリーは3DSの左側にあります。取り外すには、上部中央にある小さな隙間を使い、先の尖っていないでツールで押し出します。

    Also you should remove any SD card at this point

    James Grant - 返信

    Does this battery work on a NEW 3DS XL model?

    Froggy The Frog - 返信

    This guide is for the New 3DS XL, which is called the 2015 3DS XL here on iFixit. If you're asking about the 3DS replacement battery advertised in the iFixit store, I believe it works for both new and old models.

    BabblingFishes -

  5. , マザーボード: 手順 5、 1の画像 1
    • JIS #000ドライバーを使って、補助カバーの端沿い付近に留められている6mmネジを6本外します。

    I used a #00 instead it works better for a model form 2016

    matthewmccreary10 - 返信

    remove the micro Sd card or the shell wont come off and damage the Sd card reader and the connecter

    Tyler Callander - 返信

  6. : 手順 6、 2の画像 1 : 手順 6、 2の画像 2
    • ピンセットを使って、3DSの上部端に留められたラバーバンパーを慎重に外します。これを取り出すと、2本の6mmネジが出てきます。JIS #000ドライバーを使って外します。

    Can the rubber bumpers be replaced once you reassemble the 3DS? I'd really hate to have to take them out and never be able to put them back in, if I'm honest...

    Taylor Prince - 返信

    Yep, we were able to put them back in quite easily after repeated teardowns! If they ever refused to stay in for some reason, you could always put a little bit of something sticky on them. (I use scrapbooking tape on my laptop's bumpers.)

    BabblingFishes -

    What happens if I strip one of these screws? How hard would into be to remove them?

    Thomas Ciavattone - 返信

    very hard. i stripped 4 screws on my new 3ds xl and i haven’t been able to get them out. i even bought the precision screw extrator set and nothing the set sucked.

    marco martinez - 返信

  7. : 手順 7、 3の画像 1 : 手順 7、 3の画像 2 : 手順 7、 3の画像 3
    • カバーを外すには、慎重にヒンジから持ち上げて取り外します。(ヘッドホンポートを外すため)それから、ヒンジ側に向けてカバーをテコのように持ち上げて、回路基板を露出させます。

    • まだカバーを外さないでください。デリケートなリボンケーブルがマザーボードに繋がった状態です。

    I accidentally opened it and broke the ribbon cable to the r and zr buttons by accident. How do I fix it?

    Spider Soda - 返信

    You have to replace the whole thing.

    Kevin Canto -

  8. : 手順 8、 1の画像 1
    • ピンセットを使って、L/R/ZL/ZR ボタンリボンをマザーボードに引っ掛けている2つのプラグを持ち上げて外します。これでバックカバーを外せます。外したら脇に保管してください。

    I discovered that there is enough clearance to slide the Game Cartridge Slot assembly out without removing the motherboard. Just remove the two connectors going to the Cartridge Slot assembly and take out the 3 screws holding it down. There were two screws that look like they are holding the assembly down, but they are only holes through the assembly and don’t actually hold it down. At least on the Pokemon version, New 3DS XL that I had.

    Reed Deemer - 返信

    Can confirm, it's leagues easier to do it that way than to go to the trouble of removing the entire motherboard, potentially screwing something up in the process. Thank you so much for sharing this alternative method!

    João Gaspar -

    I third this alternative method for D-pad replacement. To add to the previously noted detail, you also need to disconnect a 3rd connector going to the Cartridge Slot assembly, the one going to the D-pad Board itself which is underneath the Cartridge Slot assembly, which is shown at a later step in this guide. Also, I found I needed to loosen the two screws on the motherboard located nearest the Cartridge Slot assembly in order to get enough clearance to slide the assembly out, as there are two plastic guide stands that hold the assembly in place which the motherboard otherwise holds too tightly to pass. Otherwise, incredibly smooth sailing, minimal connectors removed, and my New 3DS LL import model finally has a working left/right again. Thanks everyone!

    Chris St-Louis -

  9. : 手順 9、 1の画像 1
    • ピンセットで小さなヒンジ付きロックフラップを持ち上げ、サークルパッドリボンを固定しているZIF コネクタ のロックを解除します。

    • ZIFコネクタからリボンケーブルをスライドして外します。

    Is not the right side, the switch must be pull to the left, otherwise people will brake it.

    DartzSoryu - 返信

    I suggest removing the joystick first, swing to left side, then lift up on ZIF connector from the right. You’re able to pull ribbon cable out easier from the left at that point w/o breaking it, as I did.

    Dylan Riffel - 返信

    2nd the removing of the joystick first via the two screws and to be careful handling the plastic washer underneath. It’s coated with a Teflon type material to aid in stick movement. also use a finger nail over tweezers any change you get. A nail is less rigid with natural give and less likely to break plastic latches. If it doesn’t open from the end you expect, stop, and try the other side right away. Be gently.

    Shiftnumlock - 返信

  10. : 手順 10、 1の画像 1
    • JIS #000 ドライバーを使って、サークルパッドを固定している8mmネジを2本外します。

  11. : 手順 11、 1の画像 1
    • サークルパッドのケースを上向きに持ち上げて、取り出します。わずかに摩擦が生じますが、過度な力を入れる必要はありません。

  12. : 手順 12、 1の画像 1
    • マザーボードの左上にある、赤色のケーブルが付いたゴールドの端子プラグを探します。指を使って、慎重にプラグを上向きに引き抜いて外します。

    • ピンセットを使って、1つのリボンコネクタの接続を外します。

    • 赤色のケーブルを引っ張らないように、特にご注意ください。

    MDR j'avais vu cette erreur il y a un petit moment... et vous pouvez ajouter, ne pas casser le connecteur comme sur la photo !

    Sylvain Delreux - 返信

    Use a spudger to remove the red cable plug.

    Luis Leon - 返信

  13. : 手順 13、 3の画像 1 : 手順 13、 3の画像 2 : 手順 13、 3の画像 3
    • ピンセットを使って、マザーボードの淵に沿って付いている5箇所のリボンケーブルをZIFコネクタから引き抜きます。

    • これらのZIFコネクタは摩擦によって固定されており、ロックはありません。そのためコネクタ上のフラップを持ち上げると壊れる場合があります。ただし、モデルによっては、一番上のコネクタにロックが付いている場合があります。

    • リボンコネクタには、プラスチックの留め金付きフラップが付いており、ズレ防止にリボンを覆っています。ピンセットを使って、リボンを取り出す前にフラップを持ち上げてください。

    • デバイスを再組み立てする際は、ZIF留め金を必ず下ろしてください。

    • SDカードリーダーがこの画像のように外れているように写っていますが、マザーボードを取り外すかどうかはオプションです。

    Hi,

    Can you pls inform me the purpose of the topmost red marked ZIF transparent flex cable, I wish to repair my N3DS XL but I am missing this flex cable (for which part is this cable relevant).

    Thanks

    Khusro - 返信

    I don't have the model on me for reference, but if I remember correctly, it's for the bottom screen.

    BabblingFishes -

    I think it should be noted that the upper most ZIF is incorrectly labelled here as one to remove with tweezers and not to try to open the clamp. I did this recently and have now broken my brand new 3ds. This cable is for the digitizer at the front of the bottom screen. So my touch screen no longer works. I now need to carry out a further repair. Just a heads up.

    Simon Lyell - 返信

    Accurate. I have to purchase a new digitizer because of this. I tore the conductors in the cable removing it from the ZIF connector. And I’m really very angry that no correction has been made in the almost 9 months since you posted.

    Sabs Like Labs -

    Sabs Like Labs, can you please share a picture of your connector ? last time I dismounted one I had no problems with this connector but maby there are different versions ?

    Guillaume Blas -

    Zoe, I don’t suppose you would know what part to search for to replace one of these lock-less friction connectors? Before this article posted I partially broke one of mine thinking it had a lock and would like to replace it. The old one still works but I have to fiddle with it to get a good connection now. The one I broke is nearest to the cartridge socket.

    Arie Beugelsdijk - 返信

    &&^& all those tutoriel now is just break my new 3ds &&^& you internet

    xavier delfini - 返信

    I broke my connectors the little gray pieces broke not the touch screen and the joy stick are broken.

    mcoughlin625 - 返信

    Wish I’d read the comments first, messed up this connection pretty bad too.

    bajah - 返信

    Glad I read the comments first! The topmost red connector DOES have a clamp you need to flip up to release.

    BBW - 返信

    I can confirm there are two different versions of the clip. One flips up and just pushes in

    thomas rhymestine - 返信

    As others have mentioned, the topmost red connector HAS A CLAMP that you need to flip up. It seems like the creator of this guide has a 3ds with older board revision. With multiple people already having brought up the issue, the creator should absolutely update this guide to note the differences as others have already broken their devices due to this guide.

    Jason He - 返信

    Can confirm that the top most connector has a clamp on mine as well. tore the ribbon cable taking it out and now my bottom screen touch screen is unresponsive. also if you are on this guide looking to replace the game card reader, i also found out after trying to replace mine … You DO NOT need to remove the motherboard in order to replace it !

    Harry Appleton - 返信

    I swear there isn't a new 3ds XL tutorial out there without wrong steps ending up in destroying your device… Can ifixit confirm they've read the comments and fixed the guide?

    Anrei - 返信

    Then digitizer absolutely should be updated to note, I also broke the GREY clamp off, when treying to remove, and bought a new one.

    I believe this to be the replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WQY7N9?psc...

    Michael Zaeus - 返信

    I also ruined the digitizer connector thinking it had a lock (yes, I failed to read the guide correctly). I ordered another motherboard that cost me $100 (ifixit had none in stock, only option on ebay) only to find out it still doesn't work (now for some reason no button nor touchscreen work which doesn't even make sense since they all have different connectors). Please update this guide to point people to just remove the card reader without taking the motherboard off. I could have avoided all this by just replacing the card reader directly.

    Aristeu Rozanski - 返信

    Wow...ifixit is flat out lying about that top connector. There is no such thing as 2 different board revisions. ALL models have the clamp type connector. If you zoom in you can clearly see the creator has broken off the clamp in the pictures and is misrepresenting it as a friction connector. Unbelievable.

    deepakdamodara - 返信

    I just broke the not clip connectors thinking they were the ones that flip... Please, how can I fix the connectors?

    m4d83112 - 返信

  14. : 手順 14、 1の画像 1
    • JIS #000ドライバーを使って、マザーボードの端沿いに留められている4mmネジを6本外します。

  15. : 手順 15、 2の画像 1 : 手順 15、 2の画像 2
    • マザーボードの下側にある、さらに2つのZIFコネクタにアクセスするために、ヒンジ側に向けて、マザーボードを直角に回転させます。

    • どちらのコネクタにもラッチが付いておりこれを持ち上げてはずさなければなりません。左側のより長いラッチは黒色で、右側の短いラッチは白色です。フラップを持ち上げて、ボタンをスライドして外し、マザーボードを取り出します。

    • どちらの方向に各ボタンをコネクタ上にスライドするか、ご注意ください。ボタンは異なるからです。

    9-15 aren't necessary at all. Its a super easy fix step 16 is sufficient.

    Javier Rodriguez - 返信

    I think you might be confused; this is a guide for replacing the motherboard, not the entire bottom half of the unit.

    BabblingFishes -

    The top says this is a guide for the directional pad though

    Jimmy -

    Oh! Apologies; I didn't realize iFixit duplicated comments for duplicate steps. The message alert directed me to the motherboard replacement guide. Whoops.

    Anyway, as I recall, the card reader was more safely and easily removed once the motherboard was out of the way. But I agree that it was likely doable without. Thank you for the input!

    BabblingFishes -

    What does changing the motherboard do, is it if u like bricked your system or what?

    Josh TRW - 返信

    Agree here. I’m doing the job to replace the lower screen, and connecting these two cables at the corner was the hardest part of reassembly. I would have done the job without disconnecting these.

    BBW - 返信

    Getting the ribbons back in can be a challenge but don’t give up. Pull them taught and try to work at an angle that give you the most length.

    Shiftnumlock - 返信

    Do you know the name of the shorter zif connector, or how to order it? I am talking about the one that is on the botton side of the board,that sometime it is hard to connect the ribbon cable. I think it has like 30 pins. Thank you.

    Marcos Cabral -

    What is the name or how to order the small zif connectors that is on the bottom side of the board, I think it has like 30 pins. Thank you

    Marcos Cabral - 返信

    I just want to swap out lcd screens, what steps can I omit? this is the only bottom screen guide online and so many bricks wtf can’t someone make a video like top lcds there are many.

    joey grimes - 返信

    Update about the commentaries above :

    If your goal is to replace something in the top part of the console, steps 9-15 are still necessary as all of the components up there travel through the R hinge to connect to the main board.

    - Top screen and Audio/3D cable connect to the back of the motherboard shown at step 15 (screen is the left one shown on the illustration).

    - Camera bar connects to the front of the motherboard (step 13, shown as the up-and-rightmost orange connector)

    - Wifi antenna connects to the antenna connector (step 12), probably the easiest to replace without disconnecting the motherboard since it doesn't involve rolling up and threading a flat cable through the hinge.

    Albert Enstein - 返信

  16. この手順は未翻訳です。 翻訳を手伝う。

    : 手順 16、 2の画像 1 : 手順 16、 2の画像 2
    • A l'aide d'un tournevis JIS #000 enlevez les 3 vis

    • Retirez ensuite le lecteur de cartouche en le soulevant.

    Missing an instruction for releasing the connector left of the top screw. The black latch to flip up is on the back (lower) side of the plug, then the connector pulls out of the front (top).

    BBW - 返信

    Yes, as BBW said, this is missing an instruction to release the ZIF connector left of the top screw. The latch needs to be flipped up on the lower side of the plug.

    Jason He - 返信

  17. この手順は未翻訳です。 翻訳を手伝う。

    : 手順 17、 2の画像 1 : 手順 17、 2の画像 2
    • La pièce marquée en rouge est le support de l'antenne NFC, il faut l'enlever avant d'accéder au bloc LCD/Tactile.

    • Dégagez les clips du support plastique de l'antenne NFC à l'aide d'un outil fin sur le haut et le bas puis détachez-le.

  18. この手順は未翻訳です。 翻訳を手伝う。

    : 手順 18、 3の画像 1 : 手順 18、 3の画像 2 : 手順 18、 3の画像 3
    • Glissez un outil plat entre le support noir du LCD/Tactile et le boitier de la console puis soulevez-le doucement. Glissez ensuite un médiator en dessous pour le maintenir.

    • La nappe fléchée en rouge n'est pas vraiment génante mais il faut quand même faire attention à ne pas l'endommager pendant cette étape.

    • Ensuite, vous pouvez soit soulever l'ensemble en le poussant par dessous, soit continuer à faire le tour pour déclipser l'ensemble et l'extraire.

    un métronome ? un mediator non ?

    Jucost - 返信

    C’est ça quand on fait de la technique et de la musique !! Effectivement, c’est bien un mediator !!

    Guillaume Blas -

  19. この手順は未翻訳です。 翻訳を手伝う。

    : 手順 19、 1の画像 1
    • Glissez un outil fin entre le LCD et le boitier noir de l'ensemble puis soulevez doucement. Le LCD devrait sortir sans forcer.

  20. この手順は未翻訳です。 翻訳を手伝う。

    : 手順 20、 2の画像 1 : 手順 20、 2の画像 2
    • Chauffez les contours du tactile pour le décoller plus facilement puis poussez le doucement par dessous avec vos doigts pour l'extraire.

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15 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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4人の作成者と共同で作成されました。

Guillaume Blas

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12 件のコメント

I followed this guide to the letter last night on my hyrule gold new 3ds XL (from hence forth I will refer to this unit as my “old n3dsXL”) before attempting the same repair on my new unit. It worked fine on my old n3dsXL. So I went ahead with doing the same repair on my new unit.

Well it went fine till I tried to turn it on. The blue light comes on then after a few seconds there’s a “pop” sound and the unit turns back off. Can anyone tell me what just happened here?

Also tried putting the original touch screen back in the new unit and it still does the same pop sound and shuts off

Rachel Bell - 返信

You might need to reseat the cables i had this issue on my old ds lite and my old n3ds all i had to do was that and it fixed it for me also if that doesn’t work get a cotton swab and dip it in rubbing alcohol and clean the end of the ribbon cables then re insert them.

Joseph Federico -

Same thing happened to me my first time—brief blue light but would not power on. Tore it down and re-connected all the cables more carefully the second time. That fixed it.

BBW -

I just disassembled my new 3ds xl to clean my lower screen and touch sensor following this guide, it went smoothly but now everything works except the touch sensor, why??

Francesco Baldacchini - 返信

I have done this successfully three times now—thank you for the excellent guide. Newcomers should know there is one ERROR and one OMISSION in the procedure. (1) ERROR - In Step 13, the topmost ZIF connector marked in red *does* have a clamp, unlike the other four. If you attempt to pull the connector loose without opening the clamp you will break it—see the frustrated comments to Step 13 for examples. (2) OMISSION - At Step 16, before removing the cartridge drive you must unplug the connector at the top of the component. This is shown as unplugged in the photo, but the step is missing from the written instructions. The clamp on this plug loosens on the *opposite* side from where the cable is inserted, unlike the other clamps in the guide.

BBW - 返信

Because of you I broke my cable connector for the touch. Thank you very much.

asd - 返信

i used the guide and broke the digitizer and i didn’t have the plastic thing on my model. the galaxy style.

Daniel Beaston - 返信

Do I have to do step 20 if I’m only looking to swap out my LCD?

Stephen T - 返信

No you do not have to disassamble the digitizer if you only want to change the LCD.

Jannik Seuß -

I just want to swap out lcd screens, what steps can I omit? this is the only bottom screen guide online and so many bricks wtf can’t someone make a video like top lcds there are many.

joey grimes - 返信

I just need to clean around the touchscreen because all of the bottom section buttons have stopped working. I’ve gotten everything taken apart, but the instructions don’t mention a double sticky tape that is between the touchscreen and the case. In my case, the double sticky tape came up and twisted so that it is now unusable, I can’t seem to find the double sticky tape mentioned on any sites. How do, or can, I buy a replacement? Do I have to buy a completely new touchscreen just to replace the double sticky tape?

Greg Wilson-Lindberg - 返信

It’s the Tessa tape sold here.

Matthew D. H. -

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