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Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6

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  1. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6, Tornillos Pentalobe: 手順 1、 1の画像 1
    • Antes de desarmar tu iPhone, descarga la batería por debajo del 25%. Una batería de litio-ion cargada puede incendiarse y / o explotar si se pincha accidentalmente.

    • Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desensamblaje.

    • Retira los dos tornillos Pentalobe P2 de 3.6 mm situados junto al conector Lightning.

    When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

    Blair Tryba - 返信

    what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

    kristian686 -

    Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

    Howard Bales - 返信

    Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

    For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

    On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

    Maarten Vergauwen -

    Thanks for the suggestion! I heated up a hot/cold pack, and it worked great.

    Linda Chandler -

    I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

    Bailey Wilson - 返信

    Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

    Sam Goldheart -

    See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

    Kenneth Hilstan -

    I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

    socratesmens - 返信

    The guide for the iPhone6 battery replacement needs to be revised. There are a couple of issues.

    1) While the battery cover has two screws, they are different lengths. Since they are very small, it can be hard to see the difference (until one tries to screw the smaller one into the longer hole). The video needs to mention this.

    2) The application of the adhesive strip if very different from what is mentioned. Also, there is a “one piece plastic” applique, and it is very unforgiving. The video should show this process in more detail.

    I believe the attention to this detail would help folks correctly install their iPhone 6 batteries, and with the recent Apple disclosed battery problem, would continue to show that iFixit is very committed to the end-user.

    Gary Long - 返信

    I felt a bit silly getting stuck at the end of a long repair, unable to screw one of these last screws back in. What worked was gently pinching the phone above and below the screw, to make sure the screen and back were perfectly aligned.

    Matt D - 返信

    Apple edits posts on their Communities website that link to this fix page justifying as follows:

    “We’ve edited your post because following the procedures at the site you provided may lead to damage to the user’s device.”

    What is certain is that following Apple Support’s advice of resetting our phones again and again never works whereas this fix works. Apparently Apple does not want people to know that their hardware fails and can be fixed, because then they would need to explain why they don’t offer neither the fixing service nor the fixing advice by directing us to this website.

    Brice - 返信

    Before you get started, I suggest you confirm you are replacing the correct camera. If you are thinking of a camera, the front is the side of the device with the main lens. On an iPhone this is actually known as the rear facing camera. Once the phone is disassembled your orientation can be distorted and it is not that hard to fail to realize your are replacing the wrong camera. Doh!

    William Miller - 返信

    I found it very useful to use a magnet sheet when doing these repairs. I use electrical tape or a sharpie to make a grid, and place each micro screw in a separate box on the grid.

    I work directly over the magnet sheet, so that if something drops I have a better chance at not losing it.

    If you do lose a screw, go over the work area with a fridge magnet. It will pick it up if it hasn’t popped too far away.

    Megan Telliano - 返信

    I agree. The Magnetic Project Mat makes your project incredibly easier and keeps your screws/parts organized. Here is the link for anyone interested:

    Magnetic Project Mat

    Cooper -

    or some masking tape with sticky side up and the ends folded underneath on a piece of paper, then you can write notes like

    “1.4mm for FOO bracket →”

    “7x2.3mm for EMI cover, different one by camera →”

    The arrows point as appropriate.

    If you drop something, put a flashlight on the floor & shine it across the floor — Turn off ceiling & other lights off to maximize the shadow from the flashlight.

    Bass Clef -

    These screws are tiny, and the first two are the biggest of the lot. Get a magnifying glass or good reader glasses.

    Jennifer Porter - 返信

    Which torx is this T?

    klemenecanze - 返信

    The screws are no torx screws they are Apple Pentalobe screws. You need to buy a Pentalobe screwdriver seen above.

    Claes -

    I have to use the P2 right?

    Aman Singh - 返信

    The best advice I can give is not to perform this operation over carpet.

    Bruce codding - 返信

    I'm an amateur, but I was able to replace the parts almost perfectly while looking at this explanation, thank you very much.

    irichin.3.26 - 返信

    was fairly easy more nerves than anything, one thing one should have on hand is alcohol just in case its needed. also if one doesn’t get the entire tape strips out, use the alcohol like suggested and lift the battery up. Then can grab the remaining tape strips with tweezers and pull it out. Easy to put back together just make sure the connectors are in. The screws are tiny so take your time. I plugged it in and it started charging and it worked. Great to have my 6 back for a trip as I wanted to use it for the camera, also my game phone so nice to have a battery that lasts. Yes having a flat place to put the parts and put them in separate area so they don’t get mixed up. It took about a hour with hunting for a spare bottle of alcohol.

    Greg Wischmeyer - 返信

    The first step should always to be to backup your phone as there is always a slim chance that even a simple battery replacement may render the phone inoperable and data on it lost.

    Jim - 返信

    Please do not forget to remove the SIM-Card tray!!

    Steffen Albrecht - 返信

    I didn’t need to remove my sim card tray when I did my iPhone 6 battery replacement. Why do you suggest to remove it?

    Jim -

    You dont need to remove sim card while battery replacement

    bertan - 返信

    Did mine today, with iFixit battery and iFixit tool kit. Did not need suction cup, to open case, as it had partially sprung open on left, as a result of a badly swollen battery. Supported base and screen with a bookend and rubber bands. This kept these parts at a 90 degree angle, so that screen did not need to be removed. IFixit screwdriver tips were perfect fit. Somewhat difficult to remove battery adhesive strips, but slow and steady got it done, after mild heating with hair dryer. Took about 3 minutes to reposition battery connector…just a wee bit tricky, to position correctly. Was careful to place top of screen in place first, and remainder snapped into place with light pressure, and replaced the 2 pentalobe screws.

    Will highly recommend iFixit for such a repair. Repair kit and battery, are first rate. I give this an 11, out of 10.?

    Len Drasin - 返信

  2. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6, Instrucciones Anti-Clamp: 手順 2、 3の画像 1 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6, Instrucciones Anti-Clamp: 手順 2、 3の画像 2 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6, Instrucciones Anti-Clamp: 手順 2、 3の画像 3
    • Los siguientes dos pasos muestran el Anti-Clamp, una herramienta que diseñamos para facilitar el procedimiento de apertura. Si no estás utilizando Anti-Clamp, salta tres pasos hacia abajo para obtener un método alternativo.

    • Para obtener instrucciones completas sobre cómo usar Anti-Clamp, consulta esta guía.

    • Tira de la manija azul hacia atrás para desbloquear los brazos del Anti-Clamp.

    • Desliza los brazos sobre el borde izquierdo o derecho de tu iPhone.

    • Coloca las ventosas justo encima del botón de inicio en la pantalla, una en el frente y otra en la parte posterior.

    • Empuja hacia abajo las copas para aplicar succión en el área deseada.

    • Si encuentras que la superficie de tu dispositivo es demasiado resbaladiza para que el Anti-Clamp la sujete, puedes usar cinta de embalaje para crear una superficie más adherente.

    I found that the single suction cup from the kit worked very well. It didn’t take that much force to separate the front panel from the phone. I think any suction cup that you are able to get a firm grip on will probably work as well. There isn’t any adhesive holding the front panel in. It just snaps in and out. If you have a cracked screen and no screen protector, it may be hard to get a good suction seal. If that’s the case, someone else here suggested applying clear tape to the front glass to get a good surface for applying the suction cup. In my case, I already had a screen protector that was still intact so the suction cup sealed easily.

    fiftysomething - 返信

    WORKED PERFECTLY… easy, no harm at all…. thanks a lot

    carlos restrepo -

  3. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 3、 3の画像 1 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 3、 3の画像 2 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 3、 3の画像 3
    • Tira del mango azul hacia delante para bloquear los brazos.

    • Gira el mango en el sentido de las agujas del reloj 360 grados o hasta que las ventosas empiecen a estirarse.

    • Asegúrate de que las ventosas permanezcan alineadas entre sí. Si comienzan a salirse de la alineación, afloja ligeramente las ventosas y vuelve a alinear los brazos.

    • Inserta una púa de apertura bajo la pantalla cuando el Anti-Clamp cree un hueco lo suficientemente grande.

    • Si el Anti-Clamp no crea un espacio suficiente, aplica más calor al área y gira la manija en el sentido de las agujas del reloj media vuelta.

    • No des más de un cuarto de vuelta cada vez y espera unos segundos entre vuelta y vuelta. Deja que el Anti-Clamp y el tiempo hagan el trabajo por ti.

    • Omite los siguientes tres pasos.

  4. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6, Procedimiento de apertura manual: 手順 4、 1の画像 1
    • Si no tienes un iSlack, utiliza una sola ventosa para levantar el panel frontal:

    • Presiona una ventosa contra la pantalla, justo arriba del botón de inicio.

    • Asegúrate que la ventosa esté presionada firmemente contra la pantalla para obtener un cierre hermético.

    • Si tu pantalla está muy agrietada, cubrirla con una capa de cinta de embalar transparente puede permitir que la ventosa se adhiera. También se puede utilizar cinta adhesiva muy resistente en lugar de la ventosa. Si todo lo demás falla, puedes pegar la ventosa a la pantalla rota con superglue.

    This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

    Erik Madsen - 返信

    You can put clear tape over it. it works.

    Owen -

    Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

    Joanna - 返信

    Argh!! Don’t put the suction cup over the home button to pull. While it works, it also breaks the screen at the weak point below the home button. Ask me how I know.

    -Tom

    tombuy - 返信

    How do you know Tom>

    Shawn - 返信

  5. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 5、 1の画像 1
    • Mientras sostienes el iPhone con una mano, tira de la ventosa hacia arriba para separar el ensamblaje del panel frontal un poco de la caja trasera.

    • Tómate tu tiempo y aplica fuerza firme y constante. El ensamblaje de pantalla es un encaje mas apretado que otros dispositivos.

    • Utilizando una herramienta de apertura de plástico, empieza cuidadosamente a separar la caja trasera del ensamblaje de la pantalla, mientras continuas tirando hacia arriba con la ventosa.

    • Hay varios clips que retienen el ensamblaje del panel frontal a la caja trasera, así que tendrás que utilizar una combinación de la ventosa y una herramienta de apertura de plástico para liberar el ensamblaje del panel frontal.

    Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

    lauren carroll - 返信

    Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

    Tobias - 返信

    Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

    Dion Sosa - 返信

    That’s a very clever idea, thank you!

    Megan Telliano -

    I did this too and left it throughout the repair. Super easy, and prevented phone from slipping and damaging the display cables.

    Felicia Johnson -

    Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

    youmingc - 返信

    Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

    Adam - 返信

    The new suction cup (plastic handle) is not so suctiony. Prepare for this thing to pop off a couple of times when opening the case.

    Chet Seidel - 返信

    Be very careful because it feels that it holds very tight but with the last pull it can fly away.

    Kristaps Grinbergs - 返信

    Be very careful when you pull up the display! Do not keep your other hand on the display surface or you can broke it!

    Luke Man - 返信

    I did all the suggestions here and it just wasn’t moving until I repositioned the suction cup up over the home button for more leverage. It finally came up enough to slip the plastic opening tool under the edge.

    Alan Derrick - 返信

    Well, my glass immediately and easily shattered. The only reason I’m attempting this is because Apple didn’t have time and the kids at Best Buy, while they accepted my appointment, admitted they had no idea how to actually do it. So… I’m off to Apple to spend a gazillion dollars I don’t have on a new iPhone.

    scottrell - 返信

    dont have a panel so idk know cant buy one help please !!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Kemonie Elliott - 返信

    Suction cup with blue handle is so stiff it would not hold a suction. I ended up putting it in very hot water for about 5 minutes before I was ready to use it, that did the trick.

    lgjerry - 返信

    The MORE iFixit plastic tools you have available for this step the merrier. It was effortless with two.

    Michael Russo - 返信

  6. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 6、 2の画像 1 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 6、 2の画像 2
    • Mueve el botón plástico para soltar el sello al vacío de la ventosa.

    • Quita la ventosa del ensamblaje de pantalla.

  7. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6, Apertura del teléfono: 手順 7、 3の画像 1 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6, Apertura del teléfono: 手順 7、 3の画像 2 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6, Apertura del teléfono: 手順 7、 3の画像 3
    • Abre el iPhone levantando el ensamblaje de la pantalla hacia arriba desde del punto del botón de inicio y en dirección opuesta de la caja trasera, utilizando la parte superior del teléfono como una bisagra.

    • Varios de los clips en el borde de la parte superior del panel frontal forman una bisagra parcial.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, alinea los clips justo debajo del borde superior de la caja trasera. Después, desliza el panel frontal hacia arriba hasta que el borde superior esté alineado con eso de la caja trasera.

    It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

    ethanlust - 返信

    Yes! I wish I had read this before working on my phone. I read the instructions as they are and slowly started to open the case. This is when I heard my screen crack. So in the future, slowly open and when you are about 40% of the way, pull the screen forward so that the top clips pull away (we are talking a cm at most). Sigh just ordered a new screen

    Albert -

    Ein Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Das Display ca. in 45 Grad halten und vorsichtig an die obere Kante des Gehäuses drücken, bis es bündig und glatt anliegt.

    Dann das Display langsam und vorsichtig anklappen und die Clips von oben nach unten festdrücken.

    SAS - 返信

    This entire process went smooth. Final step of re-assembly , the assembly does not seat into the framing. The white gasket seats on one side not the the volume button side. Alignment looks good. How much pressure does one apply on the reassembly?

    Bruce Fournier - 返信

    My problem is the front panel does not want to joint together with the rear panel… it feel like the front is too big but it look perfect but does not clip in place… Help…

    Tony Chicoine - 返信

    same problem, in the final step, the screen does not fit entirely. it looks like the size is not 100% correct, but 99%… one side of the case stays open…

    Andrea Andreoli - 返信

    Same thing here, with a new screen it doesn’t fit quite right during re-assembly. It sits just a little bit higher and doesn’t look seated.

    Adam Carl - 返信

    Some people have noted that the screen doesn’t seat properly on the case. Here’s how I solved it:

    The issue is that rectangular brackets on the back of the display aren’t latching with the corresponding clips in the base. I think the brackets are missing the gap between the spring plate and bracket with the latching bumps on it on the base. Here’s my solution:

    Position the top of the display slightly below the top of the case so the clips on the back top of the display start to engage with the phone case. Important: don’t push it all the way up!

    Now press both sides of the top part of the display until the display seats on the back. Make sure both sides are flush with the case.

    Repeat for the middle of the display. The bottom of the display will remain bent up because it will interfere with the bottom edge of the case.

    Now push/slide the display up so the top of the display lines up with the top of the case. The bottom should then snap into the base, and the display should be flush with the case all round.

    nigel - 返信

    Yes - important to get those two rectangular brackets in place first but not all the way as you say.

    JustinO'Brien -

    Hola soy de Guatemala Me pueden ayudar a saber si puedo cambiar las partes de un A1589 a un A1549 iPhone 6

    alvarezgarcialuizfernando - 返信

    Good thing am reading this prior to beginning any disassembly or re assembly. Thanks guys for the great tips

    Anthony Arenas - 返信

  8. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 8、 3の画像 1 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 8、 3の画像 2 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 8、 3の画像 3
    • Abre la pantalla con un ángulo de 90º y apóyate contra algo para mantenerla sostenida mientras trabajas en el teléfono.

    • En un apuro, una lata de bebida sin abrir funciona muy bien para esto.

    • Agrega una banda elástica para sostener la pantalla firmemente en su lugar mientras trabajas. Esto evitará que sufran los cables de pantalla.

    A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

    Ryan - 返信

    I did the same. Made the work go so much smoother!

    dcommins - 返信

    I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

    Ergolad - 返信

    This procedure does not require the removal of the battery, so your comment is not applicable unless the batter is being replaced.

    Douglas Fichtner -

    I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

    bobcloninger - 返信

    If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

    Larry House - 返信

    Rubber band and a large can of soup held the front in place. Go slow, steady firm pressure. Take the vibrator out though. Makes pulling the adhesive tape out much easier. Great video and written instructions!

    Sherman Homan - 返信

    I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you WILL tear the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. MUCH Sadness.

    todd adelman - 返信

    Exactly!!!!!

    Bunny -

    I decided to do the repair on my iPhone 6 without detaching the screen. I ended up screwing two pieces of 3/4” x 3” x 6” wood together at right angles. I used 2 rubber bands to secure the screen to the vertical piece and 1 rubber band to secure the base to the horizontal piece. One of the two adhesive strips broke and I had to really work to get the battery out. The rubber bands held everything together nicely. The wood pieces were slightly wider than the phone which made it easy to hold everything together while I was working the adhesive strip out.

    brian - 返信

    Mine worked great install went perfect. Was like a new phone… for a couple months. Phone may be failing for other reasons, but there’s a ghost image in the shape of the battery in the display now. Very strange. The ifixit kit did give life to it for a while though.

    smahar - 返信

    Hey Smahar! If you still have your tools, I’d recommend opening your phone up to make sure the battery isn’t swollen. If it’s pressing against the screen, it’s possible that is the case. If it is swollen, I highly recommend you replace it, it can be dangerous to leave it in place.

    Sam Goldheart -

    I feel like I just pulled off a minor miracle, successfully detaching and reattaching those four connectors. In the past I have also used the lean-against-a-box variant. Now I carefully apply several short pieces of painter’s tape to create a temporary “hinge,” in combo with the lean-against-a-box variant. If the bottom piece could be SUCCESSFULLY SECURED [painter’s tape loops?] to my work surface this should avoid needing to deal with the four connectors. IMPORTANT NOTE: At the end of the day this repair will ALWAYS be about pulling the white stretchy adhesive tape out from under the battery. And again the painter’s tape comes into play. This last battery replacement when I started to pull out the two adhesive strips I also, several times, applied enough tape to combine the strips and form a single grab point. Also, removing the “vibration” block allowed the the pull angle to be insanely shallow. Slowly-but-surely, both strips successfully emerged and battery was totally released.

    Michael Russo - 返信

  9. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6, Extracción de los tornillos del soporte del conector de la batería: 手順 9、 1の画像 1
    • Quita los siguente tornillos del soporte del conector de batería:

    • Un tornillo de 2.2 mm

    • Un tornillo de 3.2 mm

    • Durante la reparación, guarda por separado cada tipo de tornillo, y asegúrate de volver a ponerlos exactamente en el mismo lugar que les corresponde, para evitar dañar tu teléfono

    #000 needed here

    Dave - 返信

    ok well what exactly does 2.2 mm and 3.2 mm mean if a #000 is needed? why even mention those numbers?

    Cory Berends -

    Those are the screw lengths. They’re important to mention so that you don’t put the longer screw in the wrong place. If you start mixing up screws, you can end up with permanent logic board damage.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

    kupies2011 - 返信

    With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

    Wilson Styres - 返信

    Sounds like you need to adjust your technique. The included PH000 driver works fine; I’ve done many many phones with it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

    smcgreg - 返信

    My phone was missing this screw also!

    Gail Starr -

    Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

    smcgreg - 返信

    When I insert the 3.2 mm screw... The phone shuts down, very weird because am not seeing what could cause this short...

    Juan Monge - 返信

    I’m having the same issue. Thinking about just leaving that screw out. Did you ever get your’s working?

    Cavell Blood -

    Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

    Dan Solovay - 返信

    None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

    Elaine Eason - 返信

    I was unable to unscrew the 2.2mm screw with the provided screwdriver. I was able to unscrew the 3.2mm screw but not the 2.2mm

    Jameison Martin - 返信

    what did you do, i have the same problem i don’t know what to do. I should have read the comments at first now I am left with an open phone

    Francky Maemble -

    I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

    Brian Adams - 返信

    Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

    Matthijs Rog - 返信

    Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

    Priscilla Cheng - 返信

    When putting everything back together, I took care of steps 10-12 (or, more accurately 12-10) after reinserting the SIM (so between steps 20 & 19). It was easier to do before dealing with reconnecting the screen.

    dhcohen67 - 返信

    why do i buy a kit from you guys but you don’t provide the necessary tools for unscrewing

    i dont have any screwdrivers at home the 2.2mm simply wont come off its ridiculous now i just have an open phone

    Michael Amara - 返信

    I had to use Phillips #00 for the 3.2mm (orange) and #0 for the 2.2mm (red). The #000 screw driver came in the toolkit is useless on both screws so I had to go out and buy new ones from a hardware store…

    Tung-wei Lin - 返信

    My two screws are the same diameter - 1.1mm, taking a Philips PH000 driver. However the one toward the middle is 3.3mm long, the one nearer the side is 2.2mm long.

    Alastair Lack - 返信

    So my kit didn’t come with the right screw driver, I should have read the comments first before buying.

    My iPhone 6 battery connector bracket has 3.2mm which the PH000 works. But the 2.2mm didn’t work with included Y000.

    What screw driver do I need for the 2.2 mm screw??

    John Palaganas - 返信

    The heads on both of those screws are identical. The included PH000 is the correct driver. There are no Y000 screws anywhere in the iPhone 6.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The Phillips in the repair kit worked fine. I did 2 phones with it.

    Eric Craumer - 返信

    Just a followup to all the comments above for anyone who is confused: the drivers included in the repair kit work fine, assuming you know how to use a screwdriver correctly in the first place. There are quite a few folks who never learned, and that’s nothing to be ashamed of—in fact it’s common enough that we made a guide for it. Those bits were designed first and foremost to work with iPhone screws and have been extensively, extensively tested. You may come across stubborn screws or strip the heads if you’re not careful, and maybe that’s why some folks here are having trouble. In the very rare event that you actually received a malformed bit of some kind due to a manufacturing defect (which should be clear just from looking at it up close), reach out to customer service and they’ll get you squared away.

    Jeff Suovanen - 返信

    I just completed the battery replacement and I too found that the PH000 did not sit properly in either the 3.2 or 2.2 mm screws. Using a magnifying glass it seemed that the PH000 driver bit did not sufficiently fill the space of the screw. I happen to have the iFixit Pro Kit and used the PH00 driver bit instead, and this seemed to fill the space of both screws much better leading to successful extraction and replacement. My lack of experience with phone repair may have been a factor, but it seemed at least for my particular phone the PH00 was the proper driver bit for these two screws.

    Jimmy Doi - 返信

    The PH000 screwdriver I received cannot remove the smaller screw…

    Michael Pesenti - 返信

    So I spend 34 bucks on a kit of tools to repair my phone and they send the wrong sized screwdriver to get the battery cover off. Awesome. I can get the larger screw out but not the smaller one. What a waste of time and money.

    Michael Pesenti - 返信

    @michael_pesenti Those screw heads are the same; the screws are just different lengths. If you have the right driver for one, you have the right driver for both, unless someone put your iPhone together with the wrong screws.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsu

    Nope. Actually turns out that ifixit just sent me a defective screwdriver that only was poorly sized and only managed to catch one of the screws. I had to order a new PH000 Screwdriver on Amazon and it got the screws out instantly and I was able to repair my phone.

    Michael Pesenti - 返信

    I used the “Maximum” precision set from Canadian Tire and the PH#00 works nicely for both these screws.

    Matt - 返信

    Screws in mine required different size drivers also - maybe because refurbished? But have had the same probs on mbps also. Felt silly but followed Jeff’s suggestion to look at the screwdriver best practice guide and realised I was stripping screws by using too small a driver - have a couple either side of the suggested size and use the largest one that catches - I mainly used PH#0 & 00, though some screws needed #000, and there wasn’t any consistency to which screws needed which driver.

    Trish - 返信

    You’ll want to secure each screw as you remove it - if you sneeze they will fly away and you’ll never find them. I recommend having a small bowl or container for each screw you remove and label them for reassembly.

    Jennifer Porter - 返信

    I was worried about getting the screws mixed up, so I used Sharpies to color-code each screw before I removed it (red, orange, or yellow - corresponding to the iFixit illustrations) When I marked the screw, the bracket got some color on it too, so when I was replacing the screw, I was confident that I was putting the right screw into the right position.

    I also made a template-board by tracing an outline of the phone in the center of a piece of cardboard, and then gluing pieces of masking tape onto the cardboard, sticky-side up, one piece of tape for each bracket I removed. I drew an outline of the part on the tape, and made a red or orange or yellow dot for each screw that came from the bracket. It made it super-easy to keep track of the disassembly and reassembly. Took a little longer, but I didn't damage the logic board by using the wrong screw, and I was relaxed throughout the repair.

    GPS and WiFi now work perfectly!!!

    Thank you iFixit and commentators

    Paul Austin - 返信

    Funny my one screwdriver fit all the screws with no problem!

    Thomas Hayes - 返信

    @Paul Austin: colouring the screws is a galaxy-brain tier idea, I will definitely be doing this!

    povman - 返信

    Are you just out of luck if you start to strip a screw? The first, 3.2 mm came out easily but the 2.2 mm is a little worse for wear. I’d be grateful for any tips you might have.

    Andrea Nixon - 返信

    Turns out the included PH000 head does work with both screws. They are both the same size gauge; only difference is the length. I had the same kind of trouble as most others trying to unscrew them. But if you carefully apply consistent direct downward pressure as you turn, the screw does disengage and unscrew. It helps to stand up over the work for more leverage. And it aids in keeping the screw driver head in full contact with screw head, so it doesn’t slip and strip the head.

    ARNOLD SCHWARTZ - 返信

    I am surprised by all of the comments about the screwdriver bits being the wrong size - I have done several iPhone repairs now with the tools provided by iFixit, and the screwdrivers work perfectly for me every time.

    Joe - 返信

    I bought the Ifixit tool kit on amazon for $70 and i don't see any 3.2 mm or 2.2 mm in the black box. does anyone know what screw i am supposed to use because i have no idea what i'm doing wrong. I opened the bottom screws on the Iphone 6 just fine but for the inside screws i dont see 3.2 or 2.2. can anyone help me? i hope I didnt waste $70 on the wrong thing.

    YuhBoiiJay - 返信

  10. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 10、 1の画像 1
    • Retira el soporte del conector de la batería de metal fuera del iPhone.

    Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

    mjcoughlin70 - 返信

    The YouTube video could use an update, but unfortunately YouTube does not allow that. Always disconnect the battery before disassembling anything else.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    One of the screws is longer than the other, use it for the higher inside hole.

    Bobby Slone - 返信

  11. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6, Desconexión del conector de la batería: 手順 11、 1の画像 1
    • Utiliza una herramienta de plástico de apertura para cuidadosamente desconectar el conector de batería de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Ten cuidado de solo hacer palanca en el conector de batería y no en el enchufe de la placa lógica. Si haces palanca en el enchufe de la placa lógica, puedes quebrar completamente el conector.

    I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

    Tonima Chaudhury - 返信

    I wish I had done that.

    Gail Starr -

    Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

    Andy Milne -

    Me too, no need to detach the screen (when you take care),

    Tom Long -

    In trying to replace my antenna flex cable, I attempted to skip steps 13-19 but eventually gave up around step 31/32 as I simply didn’t have the access I needed - the space was just too cramped with the screen still attached and I was afraid I would break something. If you’re a novice, don’t have good lighting and a magnifying glass, etc. you may just want to go ahead and perform 13-19. (Yes it will take extra time of course.)

    Perrin Haley -

    I also skipped steps 13-19 after reading the first comment.

    youmingc - 返信

    I skipped those steps too and was successful. Thanks for this tip!

    jaksbackpack - 返信

    Can disconnecting the battery connector while power is on ruin the backlight? Or can disconnecting the power connector at a different stage ruin the back light?

    mitch Toler - 返信

    You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I did open the lcd without disconnecting the battery and my lcd wouldn't working

    Reza I. Permana -

    Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

    As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

    Russ Levey - 返信

    It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

    Udo Schuehle - 返信

    I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

    Garret Gray - 返信

    I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

    Garret Gray - 返信

    The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

    Gabriel Zachmann - 返信

    When replacing the battery you should prepare the cable to sit in exactly as you see it in the picture. I had mine all the way back in (with sticky strips) and had to find a way to fit the cable in with the weird way it bends. Dry fit the battery with cable in place - lesson learned.

    Chet Seidel - 返信

    Good idea. All the instructions were great until I got to the last thing- reattaching the battery connector! I like your recommendation to dry fit the connector so you can get the right bend to the connector ribbon first.

    Tom Rohrer -

    I wish I had seen this also, I feel like this should be in the guide. Mine seems to be working out but I had to force the connector into place a little bit.

    Kevin Harvey -

    I wish I had seen this first! I also had the issue, now I have a permanent discoloration of the screen where the connector is pushing against the back. Hoping that it doesnt lead to other problems. This site is really lacking on the reassembly steps… shame..

    thomasjmaclean - 返信

    I'm just wondering if my computer would still recognize my phone with the battery disconnected?

    Sare - 返信

    It appears that I haven’t properly connected the battery back up, since the hard reset didn’t work. I did my best to connect the battery before adhering it to the battery spot, but the connector doesn’t seem to “click” or otherwise confirm that it is properly positioned. The left side of the connector (closest to the battery) seemed slightly raised, which made me wonder if I had done it correctly. So I’m probably going to have to try using my last adhesive strips to lay it in better to allow for a better connection. I’m also worried that I may have damaged the connection spot. Is there anywhere on here where this is discussed? This is my second battery replacement, but first on this particular phone, which is apparently a refurbished one (and which has a slightly different looking connector cover).

    Alex Kosmider - 返信

    Ah, it helps to discover that it’s actually a 6S rather than a 6.

    Alex Kosmider -

    For those of you replacing the Digitizer you to need follow steps 13 - 19.

    lowestseries - 返信

    Doing a lightning connector replacement - skipped steps 13-19 as well. No problems.

    cambo.robertson - 返信

    Hello, Is it necessary to do step 13 to 18 if I only want to change the battery?

    What does can happen if I don’t make all step?

    Juan - 返信

    I can’t seem to get the battery connector to connect to the logic board. Is there some reason it doesn’t click or do something to hold it in place before the battery connector bracket?

    Leif Rambjor - 返信

    @lrambjor No special technique; just line it up and press down, and it should snap into place. Make sure there’s no dirt/debris in the socket; give it a blast with some compressed air if needed. And make sure you’re not trying to jam an iPhone 6s battery into an iPhone 6 (or vice versa)—they aren’t compatible.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So her guys I skipped 13 but when attaching the ribbons( which is the LCD,camera etc ) I got a little smoke while trying to attach the ribbons and now i am not seeing anything but the phone is vibrating and coming on but i cant see anything

    What is the reason

    juniour Bowens - 返信

    Who are you kidding? Plastic tool” is cute, but totally useless for lifting that battery connector off the logic board. But the smaller of the four long-handles Metal tools iFixit sells as a set worked perfectly well.

    Michael Russo - 返信

    Reattaching the battery connector was one of the more difficult parts of this repair. Once you place the battery on the rear cover and the adhesive sticks you cannot make any adjustments to position (even though I tried to just place it as lightly as possible at first). I did a dry run attaching the connector and placing the battery before removing the adhesive cover but I did not get it to sit the quite the same after removing the cover. I had to fiddle with the battery connector quite a bit to get it in place.

    Raymond Rinaldi - 返信

  12. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6, Remover los tornillos del soporte del cable del ensamblaje del panel frontal: 手順 12、 1の画像 1
    • Quita los siguientes cinco tornillos Phillips del soporte de cable del ensamblaje del panel frontal:

    • Tres tornillos de 1.2 mm

    • Un tornillo de 1.7 mm

    • Un tornillo de 3.1 mm

    • La colocación incorrecta de estos tornillos durante el resamblado, puede causar daños permanentes a la placa lógica del iPhone

    Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

    damianodessgillett - 返信

    I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

    griffn - 返信

    I seriously draw a picture of the part, and mark where the screws belong, then place the screw on its location on the drawing! I so don’t want to screw it up(no pun intended)

    lisa OBrien -

    Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

    kev - 返信

    I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

    adlerpe - 返信

    i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

    girlsrock742 - 返信

    @girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

    # Be more specific about what your issue is.

    # Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

    Good luck!

    Bass Clef - 返信

    Nate, you are my hero at the moment! Phillips head screw driver PH000 resolved my issue. Greatly appreciative of your chiming in on this comment! Appreciatively, C.

    Carol N -

    Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

    Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

    Bass Clef - 返信

    It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

    cruz.giovanni - 返信

    I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

    Patric - 返信

    Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

    Michael Aguilera - 返信

    It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

    Adam - 返信

    I agree that it is not necessary to perform steps 13-19. I just successfully replaced my battery and skipped steps 13-19. I kept the screen assembly out of the way be securing it with a rubber band to a heavy candle jar. Note that even Gwendolyn, in the video for this batter replacement, does not mention disconnecting the screen.

    Robert Blackburn -

    Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

    nzf - 返信

    Did anyone even answer your question? I'm having the same issue

    Sare -

    I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

    I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

    Matt Whiteley - 返信

    There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

    arunhn - 返信

    100% agree. Step 13-19 are totally unnecessary and just adds the risk of breaking the display connector. “Don’t disassemble stuff that doesn’t need disassembling.” Just ensure there’s no strain on the display cable when removing the battery, i.e. by placing the phone on a non-slippery rubbery surface and fix the display to something sturdy with rubber bands.

    Dormouse -

    I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

    Joel Horie - 返信

    I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

    kevin hekman - 返信

    I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

    Billy Bob Baler - 返信

    Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

    Tanya Lyn Willard - 返信

    You probably connected the cables wrong, try doing this step again and carefully correct your cables.

    June Beltran -

    Remove each screw, tape it to a piece of letter paper, mark what spot it came out of. red, yellow, orange and the 3 reds. This way you can not possibly put them back in the wrong spots.

    smahar -

    I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

    Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

    June Beltran - 返信

    I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

    Walter White - 返信

    DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

    J Marr - 返信

    Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

    Mc Floyd -

    It’s only necessary if you’re like me an need to fix the screen or water damage (mine fell in water…)

    jacobdanderson -

    I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

    Ergolad - 返信

    How can't you do step 33 if you don't do 13-19? iPhone 6.

    predylindsay - 返信

    This procedure is for replacing the iPhone 6 battery and there is no Step 33. You may have been referred to this page from another procedure. Keep that in mind while reading the comments here that may or may not apply to your original procedure.

    Don Lawton -

    I'm missing something here, I want to swap out the screen. How does one skip steps 13-19 if wanting to remove the screen?

    BW Lee - 返信

    This procedure is for replacing the iPhone 6 battery. You may have been referred to this page from another procedure. Keep that in mind while reading the comments here that may or may not apply to your original procedure.

    Don Lawton -

    Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

    MClare - 返信

    I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

    Heather Best - 返信

    Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

    Peter - 返信

    I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

    Patrick Reed - 返信

    You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

    When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

    Gabriel Zachmann - 返信

    You SHOULD do the steps of removing the display. I have done battery replacements on several dozen phones. Of the ones I did NOT remove the cables, 2 of them had issues directly related to components related to these cables (front facing camera, earpiece speaker, etc.). Although tedious, I recommend removing these connectors to prevent any short circuit when reconnecting the new battery.

    ACMT - 4 years.

    jonbessom - 返信

    I skipped this step and just affixed the screen to the Iphone box with a rubber band during replacement. I decided to take this risk to prevent some of the other issues that have been discussed when removing the screen. I understand it is risky because if you slip or need to use any significant force to remove the battery, disaster awaits. On my repair, it worked out fine and I ensured that I took my time and kept the bottom of the phone held to the worksurface.

    Michael Kirkpatrick - 返信

    There are only 2 screws when i opened mine.The centre one and the left top corner one..Is it okay to use it like that..Please help

    Naresh Annepu - 返信

    If you can try to leave your display how it is. I removed it and it ended with white stripes and touchscreen not working. After a while it touch started to work and stripes went away. I think it was static electricity.

    Kristaps Grinbergs - 返信

    If you decide to go ahead with this step… I did it prior to removing the battery bracket and found it to be easier. Having the screen off made things a lot easier during the battery removal process.

    Eric Craumer - 返信

    Two of the screws are damaged and I can’t open them. What can I do to remove the bracket?

    L He - 返信

    Stay organized with the screws with just a piece of paper. Lay them out, mark ‘em up. Go slow, take your time.

    Sherman Homan - 返信

    I'm noticing some questions I have that others are asking yet no one is answering. You're all talking about the same problem that I find completely pointless. If you skip steps and it works, good for you move on. There are real questions being asked. Someone asked about losing a screw, would that effect anything? You all talk about the importance of having the screws organized, yet don't explain if someone either loses the screws or have them put into the wrong places. Since no one talks about it, I figured it wasn't as important as you all claim it is. Now my phone seems to not want to do anything anymore. Stop arguing with each other about something so miniscule like skipping steps. 40 comments on this part and 5 people actually have real problems but no answers. So, if anyone actually took the time to read this, my questions are; what happens if the screws are put in the wrong order?(other than the obvious long screw damage) and what happens if we put the phone back together without some screws?

    Sare - 返信

    @sarery I’m a little puzzled by your question. If you’re not willing to put the screws back in the right place as instructed, despite all the warnings in both the guide and the comments, why would you want to attempt this repair in the first place? But nevertheless I will try to answer. Some screws, if left out, have no noticeable effect. That’s the best you can hope for. Other screws perform a vital function such as providing a path to ground. Some screws are made of nonferrous materials—getting those mixed up can interfere with things like compass functionality. And putting a wrong screw pretty much anywhere can result in cross-threading or component damage. The reason we go to the trouble of providing all these screw markings and measurements is to help you put your phone back together in perfect working order. Which you may still be able to do, if you are careful, and patient. Good luck.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thank you very much for that information. That's all I and I believe some other people were curious about.

    That's what I thought this website was for, not post fighting over who's the smarter one and not putting others down. This isn't Facebook

    Sare - 返信

    well said Sare - perhaps if folk stuck to the subject instead of proving how clever they are (not) there wouldn’t be 44 comments to scroll through to find an intelligent answer

    philbjh - 返信

    For those who are removing the digitizer, you do need to remove the bracket to get access to cable.

    lowestseries - 返信

    Definitely do NOT disconnect the screen for the battery replacement!

    The battery replacement worked like a charm but now I am left with whit e stripes in the screen and touch screen functionality is lost despite many tries to get the screen reconnected.

    Indiana Jones - 返信

    Hello, well I accidentally put the screws back in the wrong order after replacing the charging port, phone turns on but stays on Apple screen, any suggestions? Thank you

    d.rando90 - 返信

    i have replaced my iphone 6’s screen twice now, first the phones fingerprint sensor wouldn’t work ( the original one ), so i replaced the entire screen ( new fingerprint sensor), but still doesn’t work and now the phones brightness is extremely dim on both screens. So now both screens now are dim and finger print sensors dont work.

    Regan Murray - 返信

    I have some issue with the 3.1 mm screw. Only this one can’t put it back, but I take off the metal that can turn it on. (I just feel 2~3 circle to turn the screw.) What it’s happen?

    AndyKao - 返信

    Bottom left 1.2 screw assembly broke off from the mother board and now my phone will not power up . Can there be another reason for the phone not switching on . How important to the function of the phone is the broken screw assembly ?

    Gary Brinkworth - 返信

    The phone will power on and work just fine without any of the screws in this particular step—the screws are for securing the bracket and keeping the connectors from popping out. I’m not sure what your issue could be, but a missing screw isn’t it! I’d probably start by reseating all the connections and giving it another try. Check the board carefully for damage. Try posting your question in our Answers forum with all the details and you may be able to get some troubleshooting help there. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thanks for your reply

    even though the screw assembly has broken away from the mother board, this screw assembly was soldered in would not damage the back light or power to the phone ?

    Gary Brinkworth - 返信

    Initially thought I would skip these steps, as many people said to skip steps 13-19, but I tried proceeding without removing the front panel, and my adhesive strips simply would not remove, even with heating….so off the front panel came. Putting it back (connecting the cables back) was definitely a little panic-inducing, but managed to do it without damage - definitely watch some youtube videos!

    Hannah Hyun - 返信

    Most companies standardize the screws on their products, but since Apple does not want you to fix your phone on its own, it has set a trap for you to damage it. I think that this criminal action may be entailing a lawsuit.

    br_flavio - 返信

    I have to use PH000 right?

    Aman Singh - 返信

    Xmas day here 2020 and i decided to skip separation of the screen from the base. got the battery out no problem. did remove the vibrator plate and felt that really helped to remove the adhesive strips. just keep the screen nicely propped up and you should have no problems. not seeing any reason at all to remove the cables and screen.

    keith florine - 返信

    Are there any other alternative i can use to unscrew the 1.7 mm screw?

    mormi mormi - 返信

  13. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 13、 1の画像 1
    • Retira el soporte del cable del ensamblaje del panel frontal fuera de la placa lógica.

    I can’t get the top left screw back in if the cable bracket. Any reason why. My phone has power and back light is coming on. But screen is blank

    Joan Fitzgerald - 返信

    In my case the top left screw - the orange screw - stayed in the front panel assembly cable bracket and would not come out. Later on I realized that the standoff screw which is underneath stayed fixed in the 1.7 mm screw. In fact this was no problem and I didn’t need to figure out how to remove the standoff screw at step 36. I just put it back in altogether and it worked fine. I actually removed both screws at once.

    Anja S - 返信

  14. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 14、 2の画像 1 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 14、 2の画像 2
    • En los próximo cuatro pasos, ten cuidado de solamente hacer palanca en los conectores de cable y no en los enchufes en la placa lógica.

    • Utiliza el lado plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector de la cámara frontal y del cable del sensor.

    I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

    douglas hughes - 返信

    Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

    mahoffman - 返信

    I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

    alyssaavaldezz - 返信

    Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

    Veronica del Rio -

    regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

    David Panak - 返信

    This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

    gybeho -

    omg…. thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Stephanie Mille -

    Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

    lee moran - 返信

    my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

    andrew midgett - 返信

    Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

    gybeho - 返信

    "gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

    cruz.giovanni - 返信

    it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

    Dakota Navarrete - 返信

    I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

    Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

    PG McLaughlin - 返信

    Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

    PG McLaughlin - 返信

    Had the same problem with the correct layering of cable harnesses. Perhaps an additional photo showing the correct layering would be helpful for 1st timers?

    William Breen - 返信

    +1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

    drpotter -

    For everybody who thinks they can skip these steps I commend you. No way I would have been able to get my battery out - two broken strips - without removing the screen. Re-inserting these cables was not really difficult - once the first one is back in place the rest follow quickly.

    Chet Seidel - 返信

    I tried to reconnect these for ages until I watched a video of someone else doing it.

    Don’t try to line up the connectors by looking at them with the screen leaning on a soda can, just hold the two halves in each hand and line the first one up by feel. Really. After that it’s plain sailing.

    Even with great lighting I couldn’t make this work with the bits on the bench - yet when I picked them up it was really easy to feel them line up. I had all four popped back on in about 60 seconds.

    Pitt Monqui - 返信

    Please how much is the battery if converted into Ghana cedis?

    Pappy Joe - 返信

    1 Ghanaian Cedi equals $0.19 United States Dollar. Therefore, the $30 USD iPhone battery kit equals 161.04 Ghanaian Cedi.

    Don Lawton -

    Got it all connected properly but front facing camera won’t work. I heard that connector snap into place but it just doesn’t work anymore. I even took it all apart again and redid that connection but nothing. Bummer, but I’m not a selfie person, I only used it when I was holding my dog on my lap. Everything else works fine after the battery re-install so…whatever.

    C Trigger - 返信

  15. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 15、 2の画像 1 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 15、 2の画像 2
    • Utiliza el lado plano de un spudger o tu uña para desconectar el conector del cable del botón de inicio.

    Muy buenas....una pregunta tecnica...si el botón falla o no está bien conectado...al conectar este conector ¿ se apagaría el teléfono?. Repare mi iphone y al conectarlo se me apaga el movil, sin embargo si no lo enchufo el movil enciende perfectamente.

    Gracias.

    Berta fernandez - 返信

    I have the same problem. The phone turns on when I disconnect the home button cable, but turns off some seconds after I reconnect it. Does anybody have a solution?

    Tim Wende -

    If you look in the prior steps , it clearly says to disconnect the battery when disassembling and reassembling.

    Anthony Arenas -

  16. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 16、 2の画像 1 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 16、 2の画像 2
    • Asegúrate de que la batería esta desconectada antes de conectar o volver a conectar el cable en este paso.

    • Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger para desconectar el conector del cable de datos de pantalla.

    • Cuando reensambles tu teléfono, puede que el cable de datos de pantalla se desconecte el solo. Esto puede resultar en líneas blancas o en una pantalla en blanco cuando enciendas el teléfono. Si esto sucede, simplemente reconecta el cable y apaga y enciende tu teléfono. La mejor manera para apagar y encender tu teléfono es desconectar y reconectar el conector de batería.

    you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

    copykatt - 返信

    My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

    Gabriel Hirata - 返信

    Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

    William Mullan - 返信

    When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

    Christopher - 返信

    NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

    taylor sparks - 返信

    Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

    Dave - 返信

    If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

    grjos - 返信

    If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

    Andrew Hill - 返信

    what if my phone wont turn back on even after following all these steps carefully . i even put the old screen back on and it wont turn on still???

    Daniel Murcia - 返信

    what if the batery was not disconnected?

    Sergio Midence - 返信

    Re-connecting display data cable was trickiest part for me - my eyes are old! I had to do it a couple of times as the cable had indeed popped off its connector, resulting in a black screen when turned on. Needs lots of patience and good lighting, also helped to have a really good look at plug and socket under magnifying glass to see how they fit together, and to reconnect using finger rather than tool - this helped me feel when I had eventually connected properly.

    Trish - 返信

    Followed steps to a “T” - got phone up and running successfully! However, there is a vertical line in the center of the screen that changes color with whatever button is being displayed in the center screen. For example, a dead battery icon shows a red vertical line, acknowledging a blue “OK” button when setting up the phone shows a blue vertical line, etc. Essentially it’s not a black screen or white lines. Could it be that the display data connector is not correctly attached or perhaps a faulty connector?

    Cyndi - 返信

    I finally got the cables to reconnect. I actually was being to gentle pushing them down. Line them up gently then firmly press them in place.

    halac6 - 返信

    i went through all the steps, except i forgot to disconnect my battery, now my phone has lines and i can see horizontal pixels (as in the images are not smooth anymore). when i performed power cycle, the screen is still the same. What can i Do

    kingsley Jide - 返信

    During the reassembly, the ordering of the ribbons on the iFixit part at the top of the phone were mis-layered. The display data cable connector and the digitizer cable connector (steps 18 and 19 in the guide) were swapped in there ordering. This was fixed by my disassembly of the camera bracket following the guide 'iPhone 6 Front-Facing Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement'. This allowed me to fix the layered ordering of the connectors.

    Ryan - 返信

  17. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 17、 2の画像 1 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 17、 2の画像 2
    • Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger para desconectar el conector del cable del digitalizador.

    • Cuando reconectes el cable digitalizador, no presiones el centro del conector. Presiona primero un extremo del conector, luego, presiona el extremo contrario. Presionando en el centro del conector puedes doblar el componente y causar una avería en el digitalizador.

    Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

    griffn - 返信

    i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

    awr - 返信

    How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

    falken1337 - 返信

    Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

    Bailey Duncan - 返信

    This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

    Keith Mullins - 返信

    So what is the fix if there is digitizer damage? Replacing the screen?

    After reinstallation, I am encountering issues with an area of the screen that is not responding to touch. Everything else works fine.

    Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed?

    Jonathan Rivera - 返信

    I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

    What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

    I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to Place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

    So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

    // Simon

    Simon Tengstrand -

    I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector).

    Simon Tengstrand -

    I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

    grjos - 返信

    I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

    Charlotte - 返信

    I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

    What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

    I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

    So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

    I had three screws left when I did some repairs on my iphone 4 and that didn't matter. It worked like a charm :)

    // Simon

    Simon Tengstrand -

    I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector)

    Simon Tengstrand -

    Be especially careful in this step or your iPhone won’t respond to your touch after reassembling.

    Ume Nishikino - 返信

    My home screen button is not working after reassembly, not only the Touch ID but the actual button doesn't work. I have iPhone 6S . How can I fix this? Thanks

    Sissy -

    I noticed that I had bent this connector. Barely. After about a dozen connect/reconnect attempts, bent it back and everything works as intended. Prior to bending it, was getting white lines and touchscreen was unresponsive. After bending and reconnecting, fired up exactly as it had prior to disassembly.

    Heywoz - 返信

    I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

    What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

    I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

    Thank you Simon - this was really helpful. I too suspected I had broken the digitizer connector also. Tried reconnecting 5 times before I saw your comment with resulting white lines and no touch screen. Applied moderate gentle force using long nose tweezer across width of connection and clicked and worked. Glad I read the comments as was looking at new digitizer purchase prior to reading your comment.

    Will - 返信

    I Had two repairs on separate phones, and got sloppy on the second one and pressed the middle of this connector with my finger. It bent the right side ever so slightly. I thought I’d read the comments before ordering a new screen and I’m glad I did. I then took a closer look and saw on the right side the two rows of points at the end weren’t running parallel anymore. Using the tweezers from the kit I squeezed the misaligned rows back true and tried one more time to install, focusing on the right (previously damaged) side first to ensure it snapped into place. Voila! All is well.

    Excellent instructions, great products, and REALLY HELPFUL COMMENTS! Thanks!

    Clint Casanova - 返信

    This was the hardest step for me. The iHold helped a lot. Used my fingers for all the connectors. Just make sure the cable that goes to the lowest connector is placed above all before trying to insert any.

    Pau - 返信

    I’ll strongly agree that this is the most difficult and time consuming step of reassembly. As Pau has stated it is vital that the cables are layered in the correct order before you begin attempting the connections.

    Check back to Step 21. It’s not clear from the photos, but the ribbons can be run under each other. The display connection and the home button connection can become transposed at Step 21.

    If in doubt, check the size of the connections and re-order accordingly.

    Dom Gernon - 返信

    After reassembling I have 3 letters on the virtual keyboard that don’t do anything anymore. It is the B, H and U. Could this be related to this (another) connector. (the screen is also broken but this time I only replaced the battery an it worked before this

    Erik Wegman - 返信

    Bonsoir je voudrais savoir si c'est possible que l'a ou l'on coche la nape de l'écran tactile peut se de fixé

    Et comment faire si c'est le cad

    francoislevi akolia - 返信

    My first attempt resulted in loss of touch response to a vertical column of app icons on the screen. From the Safari app at the bottom to the top of the screen, every app icon in that column was unresponsive to touch. Couldn’t open them. And this was true for every screen, including a corresponding bundle of letters and numbers in the same screen location when trying to use the keyboard. I did a hard reset any number of times without success until I finally realized the pattern: the vertical column of unresponsiveness.

    I remembered the caveat about connecting the digitizer cable — don’t press the center, do each side — and figured I must have made a bad connection. So I opened up the case again and went all the way down to the digitizer connection and did it more carefully, as advised. Sure enough, problem solved. Take the precaution.

    William Damkoehler - 返信

    Replacing the digitizer cable was accomplished by moving the base to line up with the flexible connection then using a finger to press into place feeling that the connection was correct worked, then pressing into place with a click of confirmation. the rest of the cables fell into place afterword.

    Teri Wright - 返信

  18. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6, Separar el ensamblaje del panel frontal y la caja trasera: 手順 18、 1の画像 1
    • Separa el ensamblaje del panel frontal de la caja trasera.

    Is it not possible to start here? Just leave the screen assembly attached and only replace the home button?

    Joeri Boersen - 返信

    Please don’t do that. You will break your cables almost assuredly if you leave it attached to your phone trust me

    Curtis Jordan Lenox - 返信

    Is front camera supposed to be attached to the digitizer?

    Neos Kosmos - 返信

    It would be worth noticing, either at this step or below, the order of the stripes. Reassembling the fron panel requires them in the correct order, and “follow the instructions in reverse order” is not enough if there is not a detail on how the cables are ordered.

    Roger - 返信

    I successfully left the screen assembly attached while replacing my battery. I even had my adhesive strips break off and had to spray isopropyl underneath the battery and then grab the strips with tweezers, but I was still ok. I can see why it’s recommended to detach the screen assembly, but if you rubberband it to a stable support and are careful not to jerk the lower case, it’s possible to accomplish the repair while skipping several steps.

    eswecker - 返信

  19. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6, Placa protectora LCD: 手順 19、 1の画像 1
    • Retirar los siguientes tornillos Phillips de la sujeción del auricular/cámara frontal:

    • Un tornillo de 2.3 mm

    • Un tornillo de 3.0 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.2 mm

  20. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 20、 2の画像 1 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 20、 2の画像 2
    • Retira el soporte del altavoz/cámara frontal del panel frontal.

  21. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 21、 1の画像 1
    • Retira los dos tornillos Phillips#00 de 1.9 mm que aseguran la sujeción del botón de inicio.

  22. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 22、 2の画像 1 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 22、 2の画像 2
    • Retira la sujeción del botón de inicio del panel frontal.

  23. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 23、 2の画像 1 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 23、 2の画像 2
    • Utiliza un spudger para desconectar el conector del botón de inicio levantándolo y retirándolo del propio botón de inicio.

    Note for reassembly:

    On the top end, between the earpiece speaker/front-facing camera bracket and the shield plate is a large section of black ribbon cable that has a large metal box afixed to it, and a 3-wire cable taped to it at its right end.

    Remember to place the large section below the box *under* the shield plate before you start screwing it into place!

    Refer to the picture above, where the earpiece speaker/front-facing camera bracket is removed.

    Bass Clef - 返信

  24. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 24、 3の画像 1 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 24、 3の画像 2 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 24、 3の画像 3
    • Retira los siguientes tornillos Phillips#00 que aseguran la proteccion LCD de el panel frontal:

    • Un tornillo de 1.7 mm

    • Seis tornillos (tres en cada lado) de 1.6 mm

    any suggestions on how to remove the screws? there are two screws that i can't remove. looks like they're stuck.

    Hector Torres - 返信

    Assuming you have a screwdriver in the correct size, it's all down to pressure. You need to press pretty hard on the driver while you twist. You can press harder if you support the back of the screw with something, like the flat part of a spudger, so that the shield plate doesn't bend.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I cannot remove the screws holding the thermal shield either! wat do?

    mangosuper - 返信

    A step to remove the front facing camera bracket is missing here.

    jlall - 返信

    Whoops, you're right! The missing step has been added. Thanks for the tip!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  25. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 25、 2の画像 1 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 25、 2の画像 2
    • Levanta ligeramente el extremo de la cámara frontal de la placa protectora LCD.

    • No intentes retirar la protección completamente, aún se encuentra unida al panel frontal por el cable del botón de inicio

    When replacing the shield, be sure to tuck the cables in correct order first, with the broad one under the shield, long silver bar showing. (not sure what function this cable has, but it can fit over or under, should be tucked under as it was, of course.)

    Christa - 返信

  26. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 26、 3の画像 1 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 26、 3の画像 2 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 26、 3の画像 3
    • Desliza la punta de un spudger detrás de la placa protectora para levantar suavemente el cable del botón de inicio hacia arriba y sacarlo del panel frontal.

    • Si el cable no se despega fácilmente, use un poco de calor de un iOpener o un secador de pelo para suavizar el adhesivo que se encuentra debajo.

    • Retira el protector del LCD

    In my experience, this step should have a BIG WARNING. I completely ripped the cable, which made the whole process pointless (as I wanted to reuse the shield and cable on a new LCD). The connector end of the cable has a thin metal backing. I found this was ‘stuck fast’. causing the ribbon to rip when the spudger was carefully used. A contributor below has suggested applying heat to loosen the adhesive. I would very much suggest trying this.

    Chris K - 返信

    Update: It appears someone has added a helpful comment about heat since my comment. You may also find the comments for Step 38, “iPhone 6 Front Panel Replacement“ informative …wish I had read that guide and comments before attempting this.

    Chris K - 返信

  27. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 27、 3の画像 1 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 27、 3の画像 2 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 27、 3の画像 3
    • Retira la cinta de soporte negra del cable del botón de inicio.

    • Es posible que necesites pinzas para comenzar a pelar, sin embargo, la cinta es quebradiza y puede ser difícil completar el trabajo solo con pinzas.

    Given this huge piece of adhesive & the finesse required to deal with it, it seems a better instruction would be along these lines:

    * Only remove the home button cable from the shield plate if the shield plate is damaged.

    * If this plate is undamaged, and you are replacing a frontscreen assembly with its own plate, then simply move this plate to the new assembly.

    Bass Clef - 返信

  28. Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 28、 2の画像 1 Reemplazo del cable del botón Inicio del iPhone 6: 手順 28、 2の画像 2
    • Retira con mucho cuidado el cable del botón de inicio del adhesivo que lo sujeta a la placa de la pantalla LCD.

    Do you need to replace the backing adhesive or can this be reused?

    snowsurfer9896 - 返信

終わりに

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Sam Goldheart

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22 件のコメント

does this repair will work with my error 53 on my itunes pleas tell me ???

xhemajl - 返信

If you had your LCD screen replaced, this is probably your problem. You MUST have your original button. If you have had your phone for less than a year, I would just bring it to Apple. Error 53 is a hardware problem. Check your phone usb and your computer before attempting this. Also, make sure that you have the most recent version of iTunes.

foulmouthedbird -

if the black backing tape tears or is damaged during replacement, will this affect functionality of the screen? if so what can you use to replace the black backing tape? i can't find it for sale anywhere.

alexiskf - 返信

Did you ever use a certain tape for replacing the flex cable? Im trying to fix mine but idk what type of tape i should use? Thank you

Mary -

If i change Home Button Cable, Can it Affect on my Sensor?

Faisal Joiya - 返信

Sometimes the white lines are caused because the battery is low fully change your device and you will see the white bars disappear

Airbibo - 返信

Hi - I changed the flex on a iphone 6 - and new screen.

But now my battery is draining really fast - over night. I changed battery, but same problem. Before I changed the felx I was using it with assistive touch, and no problem with battery?

What could have happened / solutions ? - really annoying since it's not my phone.

I tried charge new battery to 100% and then reset all settings .. but still drains battery. Could flex cable be the problem?

Thanks in advance.

renereuss1234 - 返信

Most sellers now will sell the cable with shield and thermal insulation pre-assembled, for slightly more than flex only

Slot1gamer - 返信

I've read that the home button assembly (on the lower part of the iPhone 6) can't be replaced without losing TouchID capability. I've also read that the home button cable (the cable that’s adhered to the LCD shield plate and that runs from the earpiece area of the iPhone 6 to the home button area) can’t be replaced without losing TouchID capability. Just to clarify, is it the home button assembly, the home button cable, or both that disables TouchID? Thanks.

Lance J - 返信

Damaging either one can disable TouchID. However, a damaged cable can be replaced, and you should get full TouchID function back. On the other hand, if you damage the home button assembly, you'll probably never get TouchID back without help from Apple, since the original home button was paired to your phone's logic board at the factory.

Jeff Suovanen -

Iphone 6+…..problem due to fall

my front display is not broken neither is the phone. the phone boots properly but there is no display, for one time the phone opened properly but went back to the problem and it hasn’t since. i checked it in the internet detailing my problems i could not find any.

any help would be appreciated!!!!!!!!!!

anson_manish - 返信

Please post a the same process for iphone 6s

Koustub Singh - 返信

How to replace iphone 6s home button cable

Koustub Singh - 返信

Is it same cable for 6 and 6s?

Ram - 返信

Just replaced front screen on my iPhone 6 without any problems except, a small black square with a screw size hole in the middle dropped out of no where. Tried to post a help question but no replies, so i reassemble the phone without it (sm blk sqr) and power up the phone. Everything works like new. Thanks Ifixit

Small Black Square !!!!!!

dwleersgt - 返信

Hi dwleersgt! Did you post photos? Could you link your question post? It sounds like maybe an ambient light sensor gasket? You’ll probably be fine with out it though. Great job on your repair!

Sam Goldheart -

My iPhone 6 Touch ID cable frayed from home button now how I solve this problem

Efazul Karim - 返信

If you mean the smaller cable that’s attached to the button itself, there are two options—you can either replace the entire button (which will disable Touch ID if replaced by anyone other than Apple or an AASP, but the button click will still work), or you can seek help from someone who can actually repair the cable, which is a tricky (but common) microsoldering job.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hello my iPhone 6 Touch ID AND HOME BUTTON stopped working after screen replacement and there is no vivid or obvious damage to the flex cables both the home button and touch sensor flex at the back of the metal shield plate … no damage to flex and it’s not working ,,, why’s that ?! What happened it used to work with the old screen before

bash - 返信

Can I replace 6s plus cable like this? I heard that 6s plus cable can't be replaced?

linhaiyxs - 返信

Will the Touch ID work if I have the original home button

Indigo fraser - 返信

Does this work for a 6s too?

Andrew Colville - 返信

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