はじめに
このガイドを参照して、Nintendo Switch Lite 左側ジョイスティックを交換します。この修理は、悪名高い"Joy-Conドリフト問題" を解決します。このガイドを参照して、Nintendo Switch Liteの右側ジョイスティックを交換しましょう。
Switch LiteはJISネジを使用していますが、急な時はプラス(PH)ドライバーでも対応できます。iFixitのプラスビットはJIS規格のネジと相互互換性があるように設計されているので、ネジを剥がさないように十分注意してください。
ご注意: この修理ガイドでは、シールドプレートとヒートシンクを取り外します。両方のコンポーネントとCPU上に残っている放熱グリスを除去して、シールドプレートとヒートシンクを再インストールする前に、放熱グリスを新しく塗布してください。
必要な工具と部品
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Y00ドライバーを使って、バックパネルを固定している6.3mmネジを4本外します。
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プラスドライバーもしくはiFixit PH000ドライバー で、バックパネルを固定している次のネジを外します。
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デバイス上部の長さ3.6mmネジー2本
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デバイス下部の長さ3.6mmネジー2本
I accidentally stripped the back screw and now I can't open it. I removed all the other screws. What should I do?
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デバイス下部の左側スピーカーグリルの内側に、開口ツールを差し込みます。
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開口ツールをひねって、バックパネルを固定しているクリップを外します。
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プラスドライバーもしくは iFixit PH 000ドライバーを使って、次のネジを4本外します。
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長さ3.1 mmネジー3本
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長さ4.5 mmネジー1本
There are four screws instead of three mentioned
With how easy it seems to be to do serious damage with the next few steps, I figured I'd say that realistically you can skip steps 9-13 when doing this repair. While they provide a bit of extra security by disconnecting the battery, the left stick is completely accessible and replaceable without touching the heat shield or anything underneath (And steps 17 and 18 disconnect power from the daughter board regardless).
i stripped a &&^&^$^ screw
Well I actually removed the screw right next to the 4.5 screw. I did not realize it till my son showed me why the plate wouldn't release. Ha ha, it's funny now but yeah not a big deal. I could have bent it badly assuming I took all screws out though. For anyone reading this before going in. 👍
Toastninja - 返信
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開口ツールもしくは爪先で、マザーボードの相互接続ケーブルのZIFコネクタに付いている小さなヒンジ状の固定フラップを跳ね上げます。
The clip broke off when trying to remove this cable. Audio only works through headphones and the display now won’t turn on after the clip broke. Does anyone know where I could get a clip or how I could fix it without it?
Mi è successa la stessa cosa è non so come ripararla! Chissà se c’è un modo!
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ピンセットでマザーボード上のコネクタから、相互接続ケーブルをスライドして外します。
I turned the unit off beforehand, I used tweezers just like the instructions said (ifixit branded) , my device sparked and now it won’t turn back on
The flap came off is it important or is there a way t fix it?
We're you able to get it working without the white flap? My screen is not working after putting it back together and i noticed this white flap was falling off
Did you get it working without the white flap? Everything on the switch works fine except for audio going through headphones and the display not turning on.
do not use metal sharp pointed tweezers! you will rip your ribbon cable. Use the inside of a Bic type pen or something else dull and plastic to pull the cable away by putting the pen part where the first bend is.
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、マザーボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクタをこじ開けて、接続を外します。
Caution the connector may not be properly soldered onto the motherboard. For me it snapped off the pins and now have to find a place to get that fixed if even possible. may have bricked it.
Yup, broke the connector right off the motherboard. Thanks, ifixit -_-
I backed out when I reached this point. I couldn't risk damaging it. Do u just need to pull it up? Did you mean that it might have been soldered shut below?
Jannalyzer - 返信
You should just need to pull straight up, but make sure you’re pulling on the wires or the gray plug—do not pull on the black socket or it can snap off of the motherboard.
With how easy it seems to be to do serious damage at this point, I figured I'd say that realistically you can skip steps 9-13 when doing this repair. While they provide a bit of extra security by disconnecting the battery, the left stick is completely accessible and replaceable without touching the heat shield or anything underneath (And steps 17 and 18 disconnect power from the daughter board regardless).
just broke my connector... ifixit PLEASE put a warning on how fragile the solder on this connector is.
Note for this step, you do not need to apply a lot of force. I used two tools here: small screwdriver to hold down the black base, and one side of fine-tipped tweezers to get under all 3 wires. Gently, push down on the tweezers to push the wires upwards, which should force the gray connector up and off the base. It did not take a lot of force. Take your time and it will be fine. Again, like others have said, do NOT pull or pry up the black base.
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ピンセットもしくは指先で、左側スピーカーケーブルをまっすぐ持ち上げて、ドーターボード上のソケットから外します。
pulled from the connector, not the wires, and ended up ripping them off the connector anyways since it encountered tension from the other end (the gray chamber on the left)
consider doing step 15 before pulling the wire, just in case.
Why even disconnect this cable. Not worth the risk leave it connected to daughter board.
while doing this I ripped the pad on the circuit board off. Should i risk trying to repair it or should i just try to go without the speaker???
I also accidentally ripped off the connector, disabling the left speaker. However, that will not break any functionality of the switch. The right speaker works just fine on its own (just remember to turn the audio to mono in system settings) and I was successfully able to replace the joystick. Although the audio quality is a little bit depleted, you barely notice it if you turn up the volume a little, and I think being able to actually MOVE FORWARD in my games is a better plus than having louder, stereo, audio.
Went to pull the speaker connector and it pulled right off the motherboard. Would not come loose.
I'm gonna echo what others said here and suggest that you skip this step. After you complete Step 15, you can just move the speakers enough with your fingers to complete Step 26, which involves a screw half underneath it.
Regarding the ribbon cable in Step 17 & Step 18, you can honestly use your fingers if they're small enough. The ribbon cable is wide enough for you to press down on it a little and slide it out bit by bit.
Overall, this makes the disassembly and eventual reassembly process easier and lets you avoid running the risk of damaging or completely tearing out the wires, like I almost did.Removing the screw from 37 is enough to give you space to remove the board, I honestly think you shouldn't try to remove this connector.
Unfortunately, I had to reinstall multiple daughterboards on the same Switch Lite. I strongly recommend orienting your straight tweezers with ridges (like the ones in the picture) perpendicular to the device. Grab the plastic connector with the tip of the tweezers from the top. It makes inserting and removing this connection significantly easier.
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ピンセットを使って、ドーターボード上のコネクタから左側ジョイスティックケーブルをスライドして外します。
The connector for my left joystick broke. Is there a way to fix it?
How badly did it broke?
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JIS000ドライバーもしくはiFixit PH 000ドライバーを使って、左側トリガーボタンアセンブリを固定している4.5mmネジを2本外します。
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JIS000ドライバーもしくはiFixit PHドライバーを使って、次のネジを4本外します。
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長さ4.5mmネジー2本
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長さ6 mmネジー2本
The two 4.5 mm screws were very difficult to remove here and ended up getting stripped. I CANNOT remove them, help!
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指先でドーターボードを持ち上げて、本体から取り出します。
Stop here if repairing Switch Lite for joycon drift. After removing daughter card you can see the bottom of the joystick. This thin metal actually bends during use causing bad connection of joystick. If you cut out a business card the same size as the joycon and put it on the bottom of the joystick it gives the metal enough backing to fix the issue. I used two layers with just a small bit of glue stick to adhere it. Put it all back together and you will find your issue is fixed.
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ジョイスティックを持ち上げます。
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指先でジョイスティックを摘んで取り出します。
During reassembly when putting the screws back in, slowly turn them CCW until you feel it drop into its thread. You will never crossthread them by doing this.
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このデバイスを再組み立てするには、インストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
このガイドを完成後、パフォーマンスの最適化のために、新しくインストールしたバッテリーを キャリブレーションしてください。
e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？ベーシックなトラブルシューティングのページを参照するか、Nintendo Switch Liteのアンサーコミュニティに尋ねてみましょう。
このデバイスを再組み立てするには、インストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
このガイドを完成後、パフォーマンスの最適化のために、新しくインストールしたバッテリーを キャリブレーションしてください。
e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？ベーシックなトラブルシューティングのページを参照するか、Nintendo Switch Liteのアンサーコミュニティに尋ねてみましょう。
95 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています！ あなたも貢献してみませんか？
翻訳を始める ›
35 件のコメント
Really appreciate the detailed pictures.
This was great, I love how every step was so simply broken down and had pictures. Thank you, my son is very happy to have his switch back in action.
I followed this guide, bought the tools and replacement part, after successfully doing the replacement, my switch light now won’t power on at all, how can I fix this? any help please…
Hi Iczleal I had the same issue when I first did it and then I went back step by step. Turns out I didn’t plug the battery back in correctly, I recommend just repeating the steps and checking to see if everything is connected properly. Hope this helps :)
Thank you to both. Had the same problem and you helped me solve it.
It is not called a daughter board it is called a mother board
It’s called a daughter board because it is not the main device board and it can only work if it is connected to the main (mother) board, thus making it the daughter board. For the normal joy-cons, those boards are considered motherboards because those are separate from the Switches mother board and can operate with their own battery pack. Hope this makes sense :D
Appreciate the detail. Now it's fixed and my character doesn't wander off anymore.
That was easy to follow. The procedure went really smoothly! Thanks for the guide! <3
Is it mandatory to replace the thermal paste or can I just place the heat shield back without any consequence?
E. Serrano - 返信
Thanks for this guide! The thumbstick on my son's Switch Lite stopped moving up and down. I already had the iFixit tools so I bought the part and followed the iFixit guide and repaired almost like new.
Glad I had some thermal paste on hand from a previous laptop repair.
This guide is magic! Battery connector does need a bit of a push to re-fit though. Thanks from my daughter and me.
Just so you don't loose it, I'd recommend removing the left shoulder button as well at step 25.
It is kind of hard to put back in because of the spring but it really likes to fall out on its own.
Hi! I attempted this repair years ago when I was less careful, and ended up awfully stripping the left 4.5mm screw on the daughterboard in step 26, making it impossible to access the stick. Since then the drifting has gotten to the point to where the console is unusable and I want to attempt this repair again. Does anyone have any tips as to how I could get that screw out? I'm not really concerned with salvaging the screw at this point, just the console.
Put a rubber band in between the screw and screwdriver, then firmly, but slowly, unscrew it. Otherwise, if you don't mind ruining your bit, put a tiny bit of super glue on the screw, press your screwdriver on the screw, then wait until it's dry and slowly turn. Hope that helps! And good luck :)
We replaced both joysticks on my son's Switch Lite, but it will not turn back on now. I went back step by step to confirm everything was connected correctly & put it on the charger, but it will not power on at all. Any suggestions on what I can do?
Before i found ifixit's repair guide I already got a repair kit featuring a a Philips 2.0 x 40mm should this be sufficient for the repair and if not how does it differ from the the Philips drivers you suggest
Be weary of this process; some of the screws were impossible to remove which caused some damage. I would say invest in going to Geek Squad or having it professionally repaired before you take your entire switch apart!
Did the replacement but now my switch makes noise and is responsive, but the screen is completely blank. How can I fix this? Any help much appreciated
What would happen if I don’t remove the batterie and the screen? I see to access those you need to remove the back plate heatsink and I will need tk replace the thermal paste but I dknt have that. And I also see that j can acces everything I need tk replace the joystick without removing the backplate. Will there be any risks if I dknt?
ermhs Gpro - 返信
I've watched some videos on this and you can definitely leave the backplate in place if you're just replacing the left joycon
Amazing detailed guide. Reall helpful that there are lots of pictures in the guide. Made the repair of my switch really easy.
super easy repair, did both sticks while working (I work from home) took about 3 hours to do both sides.
The new joystick works based on the sound but similar to some of the other reviews the screen no longer illuminates. I tried several times removing and replacing the screen cable multiple times to no avail. Was anyone able to overcome this or at least have any fresh ideas to try?
I followed this guide step by step and the replacement went perfectly. The detailed pictures and guide were great and very helpful. Thank you iFixit!
This guide is very clear and made the whole process a lot simpler.
Thank you for the detailed explanations!
Merci beaucoup pour ce tutoriel. Cela m'a permis de changer les deux sticks sur la Switch Lite de mon fils. En prenant son temps et en triant par ordre chronologique chaque vis et pièce, c'est presque facile. Merci encore pour tous ces détails, ces conseils au fur et à mesure, le tuto est parfait.
Went through the process of replacing both joysticks and now the Switch Lite won't power on. I even tried leaving it plugged in to the charger overnight. I opened it back up to check all of the ribbon cable connections and everything looks snug. The only thing I can think, is that the unit had been sitting for a couple weeks before I did the repair. Could the battery be toast now?
Done it but there is now no backlight and my switch lite just wont go back to normal. I went over everything from this guide only thing is I didnt replace thermal paste. Also the white locking flap to disconnect the battery (step 11) may have come off. Im still genuinely confused about what is the problem.
I did it! These instructions are easy follow. My switch lite battery was completely dead, so now I wait and hopefully everything is right...and it powers on.
Toastninja - 返信
Final step, recalibrate joystick.
David Burk - 返信
This was a fantastic guide, but I'm still having an issue. Replaced a left stick that had a limited range of up/down motion. The new stick worked great at first but within a few hours became even worse than the original stick. Could there be another issue at play here?
All my screws got stripped any ideas on how to remove?
Almost A Mammal - 返信
A Y0 screwdriver seemed to work better for me.
Tommy Morrill - 返信
What type of screw driver do I use to un screw the screws and which way
Luca Capito - 返信
Y 0.6 was all I had but it seemed to fit perfectly
Trevor - 返信