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はじめに

このガイドを使って、Nexus 6Pスマートフォンのバッテリーを交換しましょう。スマートフォンを再度組み立てるときは、必要なところに新しい接着剤を塗布してください。

バッテリーが膨張している場合、予防処置をとってください

  1. この手順にあるように、iOpenerを使ってリアカバーを取り外すことは可能ですが、それは時間がかかり、難易度の高い作業です。 ヒートガンなどをお勧めします。 Nexus 6Pの接着剤は非常に粘着性があります。特に裏面ガラスとプラスチックのカバーは、ほとんどの場合この修理中に破損または曲がります。 SIMカード取り出し用ツールを使って、SIMカードトレイを取り出します。 iOpenerを使用して、デバイス下部に付けられた小さなプラスチック製カバー下に留められた接着剤を温めます。
    • この手順にあるように、iOpenerを使ってリアカバーを取り外すことは可能ですが、それは時間がかかり、難易度の高い作業です。 ヒートガンなどをお勧めします。 Nexus 6Pの接着剤は非常に粘着性があります。特に裏面ガラスとプラスチックのカバーは、ほとんどの場合この修理中に破損または曲がります。

    • SIMカード取り出し用ツールを使って、SIMカードトレイを取り出します。

    • iOpenerを使用して、デバイス下部に付けられた小さなプラスチック製カバー下に留められた接着剤を温めます。

    For the heat gun users — any approximate temperature, and distance from phone, to not damage it?

    Kamal - 返信

    Hi Kamal,

    my advice is the be very, very gentle with a heat gun. Especially the small plastic cover at the bottom end deforms within seconds. Try the lowest heat you can, with a good distance to the cover. Then try to remove the cover. If it doesn’t go off, lower the distance of the heat gun to the phone and try again and so on. I recommend to rather pry a little bit more than to use to much heat. If the cover deforms you’ll need a new one.

    Dominik Schnabelrauch -

    Is their a particular time i should have my heat gun on it like for ex: 10 secs

    PlayStation Studios - 返信

    Hi,

    there’s no particular time but I advise you to go only for a couple of seconds and then try to remove the plastic cover. If you can’t manage to remove it, repeat the heat gun process and so on. Under strong heat the plastic cover deforms very fast and is not usable anymore.

    Dominik Schnabelrauch -

    Hi,

    I used a hair dryer (exhaust air about 60°C) instead of a heat gun: this temperature was sufficient to soften the glue. The plastic and glass cover could be removed without damage.

    Daniel Demuth - 返信

  2. ナイフはとてもシャープです。デバイス本体やご自身をカットしないようご注意ください。 デバイスとプラスチックカバーの間にナイフを差し込みます。開口ピックを差し込める程度までプラスチックカバーを持ち上げます。 開口ピックをプラスチックカバーの下にスライドして差し込み、接着剤を切開します。
    • ナイフはとてもシャープです。デバイス本体やご自身をカットしないようご注意ください。

    • デバイスとプラスチックカバーの間にナイフを差し込みます。開口ピックを差し込める程度までプラスチックカバーを持ち上げます。

    • 開口ピックをプラスチックカバーの下にスライドして差し込み、接着剤を切開します。

    How I did it was to heat the plastic to around 65C (150F) with a hair dryer, then managed to get one of my metal prying tools in and under the edge to pull it up.

    Michael Lerro - 返信

    Request to give some specification/link to the knife used in this process. I dont want to buy a knife too thick for the job. Thanks in advance.

    onkararadhye - 返信

    Hi onkararadhye,

    the knife used in this process was from the Technician's Razor Set in our shop.

    Dominik Schnabelrauch -

  3. iOpenerを使って、デバイス上部のガラスカバーの下の接着剤を温めます。 デバイス本体とガラスカバーの間にナイフを差し込みます。開口ピックが差し込める程度までガラスカバーを持ち上げます。
    • iOpenerを使って、デバイス上部のガラスカバーの下の接着剤を温めます。

    • デバイス本体とガラスカバーの間にナイフを差し込みます。開口ピックが差し込める程度までガラスカバーを持ち上げます。

  4. ガラスは割れる可能性があるので、保護メガネと保護グローブを着用してください。 ガラスカバーの下に開口ピックをスライドさせ、下の接着剤を切断します。 ガラスカバーをこじ開けます。
    • ガラスは割れる可能性があるので、保護メガネと保護グローブを着用してください。

    • ガラスカバーの下に開口ピックをスライドさせ、下の接着剤を切断します。

    • ガラスカバーをこじ開けます。

    I had a really hard time getting under the glass using the iOpener. I just don’t think it got hot enough to really loosen up the adhesive. So, I got my wife’s hair dryer and used that. I put it on the highest heat and held it to the glass for a couple minutes. That loosened it up pretty well and I was able to get enough space to put in a prying pick. Once I got one of those in it was pretty easy.

    Davin Studer - 返信

    The way I did this bit was to heat the glass up to around 70C (160F) with a hair dryer, then use a razor blade to get in under the glass, then used a playing card and pushed that along underneath the glass to seperate the glass from the body. I started with my razor blade at the curved edge of the glass on the side of the phone, rather than at the straight edge at the top as they show here, because it was a bit easier for me.

    Nothing else in my toolkit had a fine enough edge to get in under that glass except for a razor blade. The gap is very small.

    Michael Lerro - 返信

  5. ピンセットを使って、液体インディケーターのステッカーを剥がします。 #000 プラスネジを6本外します。 #000 プラスネジを6本外します。
    • ピンセットを使って、液体インディケーターのステッカーを剥がします。

    • #000 プラスネジを6本外します。

  6. メタル製バックカバーとフロントガラスの間にレーザーナイフを差し込み、隙間を作ります。そ開口ピックを隙間に差し込み、上部右側コーナーまでスライドします。 ナイフはとてもシャープです。作業中、デバイスもしくはご自身をカットしないようにご注意ください。 2番目のプラスチックピックを差し込み、上部左側コーナーまでスライドします。
    • メタル製バックカバーとフロントガラスの間にレーザーナイフを差し込み、隙間を作ります。そ開口ピックを隙間に差し込み、上部右側コーナーまでスライドします。

    • ナイフはとてもシャープです。作業中、デバイスもしくはご自身をカットしないようにご注意ください。

    • 2番目のプラスチックピックを差し込み、上部左側コーナーまでスライドします。

    • 開口ピックをエッジに沿ってスライドし、バックカバーとミッドフレーム両方を固定しているプラスチッククリップを外します。

    • リアカバーを取り出します。

    There is a black plastic band around the front glass. So stick the razor between the metal back and outside of the black plastic that is around the front glass. If you look closely at the first picture you can see the black plastic strip outside of the front glass. If you stick it between the black plastic and screen you could leave the mid frame in the metal case and only lift up the the glass and screen.

    igolten - 返信

    Definitely try to get the knife as close as possible to the aluminum body. It will spare you damage to the plastic band… wish I would have read the comment before trying this myself… ah… and don’t get tricked by a possible space between the display and the plastic band it looks tempting to put the knife in there however that will possibly damage the plastic band. That’s where I thought I could get in between the display and the body and did damage my plastic seal. Btw, I got my device open from the left side away from the power and volume buttons.

    Marcel Duda - 返信

    I couldn’t even find room for the knife, ended up using a suction cup to lift the bottom left corner enough to get a plastic shim in. Worked around from there. Damaged a good deal of the plastic around the edge trying to get the knife in—would recommend just using a suction cup.

    Alexander Haase - 返信

    Blow dry the viser and stick an exacto knife under it. Gently pry. The bottom plastic is the same process, it is more difficult.

    Easyway to push the unibody/screen apart is pushing hard on the fingerprint reader. No bending/scraping. Going between the screen and body with a pick or blade is stupid.

    If you DONT put the 5 screws back in, it makes future servicing easy. The device has dovetail joints that will snap into place and still hold everything together. The phone is easy to bend/shatter anyways. This kind of gives you a removable back.

    Yazan Sakran - 返信

    That is a terrific suggestion and it’s what I’ve done. Put the cover back on and guess what, those six screws aren’t even needed.

    In fact, thank you all for your input. (I echo Alexander Haase above; there’s no real need for a blade when separating the front.)

    Also, am I the only one who found the “iOpener approach” more effective than using a hairdryer? I don’t have an iOpener and I used one of those blue gel ice/hot packs. Simply placing it on the target area may indeed not be enough, but I covered my hand with a towel and kept it firmly pressed against the surface for a couple minutes. The visor then came off very smoothly on prying, with all the adhesive stuck only on one side.

    Never was there the slightest chance of either part cracking or warping. The operation is far less scary than (and certainly not as Difficult as) the guide would suggest.

    Ω Gsazraetr -

    I had a lot of trouble with this, and the trick that worked for me was to do something similar to Alexander Haase above (minus the suction cup, I couldn’t get my suction cup to stick well enough to pull up the glass enough for a gap).

    The bottom left corner of the phone - at least on mine - seemed to have the biggest gap and be most the ameanable to prying open. I used a razor blade and pushed it in at the very corner (as close as you can to the aluminium, so that you don’t wreck the plastic band around the glass), then jimmied up the glass with the blade until there was a gap. I placed a plastic prying tool / guitar pick in the gap, and pushed it around the edges to seperate the clips.

    Michael Lerro - 返信

    I tried to use the suction cup method, but ended up separating the glass from the phone. The glass cracked and now my screen is broken.

    Louis Kruger - 返信

  7. #000プラスネジを外します。 ピンセットを使い、金属板を外します。
    • #000プラスネジを外します。

    • ピンセットを使い、金属板を外します。

    While I performed this step, the three ribbon cables from the next step came up attached to the metal plate.

    Troy Gaddis - 返信

    As a head’s up the metal plate needs to be removed from the left side first because it does slide under another piece of metal close to the fingerprint scanner. Upon reassembly insert the right side first and then push the left side down. You will know if you have it in correctly if the plate cannot move freely if the screw is in even a little bit.

    Michael Stefanchik - 返信

    There is glue on the underside of metal plate that made it a little harder to pull up the plate than we expected. The flex cables did not come up with the plate, but it was a surprise.

    Catherine Adams - 返信

  8. スパッジャーの平面側の先端を使い、フレックスケーブルを3本外します。 スパッジャーの平面側の先端を使い、フレックスケーブルを3本外します。 スパッジャーの平面側の先端を使い、フレックスケーブルを3本外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側の先端を使い、フレックスケーブルを3本外します。

    While I was performing this, the three flat ribbon cables were stuck to the metal plate and came up with it. Watch out for that possibility.

    Troy Gaddis - 返信

  9. スパッジャーの平面側の先端を使い、ドーターボードのインターコネクトケーブルを外します。 iOpenerを使い、バッテリーの下の接着剤をほぐします。
    • スパッジャーの平面側の先端を使い、ドーターボードのインターコネクトケーブルを外します。

    • iOpenerを使い、バッテリーの下の接着剤をほぐします。

  10. 警告:スパッジャーやプラスチックカードをバッテリー下から深くまで差し込みすぎないでください。ディスプレイケーブルは、バッテリーの下を通っています。 ケーブルの位置を確認したい場合、次の手順にスクロールしてください。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を 切り欠きと同じくらい深く差し込み、 端に沿ってスライドさせて接着剤を切断します…
    • 警告:スパッジャーやプラスチックカードをバッテリー下から深くまで差し込みすぎないでください。ディスプレイケーブルは、バッテリーの下を通っています。

    • ケーブルの位置を確認したい場合、次の手順にスクロールしてください。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を 切り欠きと同じくらい深く差し込み、 端に沿ってスライドさせて接着剤を切断します…

    • プラスチックカードを使って、バッテリー下部左側に残った接着剤を切断します。

    The display cable seems to be completely attached to backing, not free to move at all. The warning made me think it would be floating between the battery and the back of the battery area, however this is not the case. You shouldn’t need to worry too much about it, but you also don’t need to stick anything that deep since the adhesive isn’t where the display cable is. You can see where the adhesive is in the picture for the next step. It’s the black sort of rectangular-ish pad to the right of the display cable. There’s a second taller adhesive pad on the left side of the display cable which must’ve stuck to the battery when they removed it for this guide. When I took the battery out both of the adhesive pads stayed attached to the battery.

    Cory Miller - 返信

    Thanks, Cory. This is exactly what we saw, too!

    Catherine Adams -

    How is the new battery secured to the phone? Is there enough adhesive left after removing the old battery to make it stay in place?

    Carolina hiker - 返信

    My battery came up pretty easily:

    I heated the battery to around 60C (145F), then used a plastic prying tool and an old credit card and pushed them in to cut / seperate the glue. Then just pulled the battery up. Be aware of the display cable underneath and where it is (see picks below), but in my case it was fine.

    For the replacement battery the existing black adhesive sticker things in the phone were enough (if yours come up stuck to the battery, pull them off and put them back into the phone), I just heated it up a bit again after inserting the new battery to reglue it back down.

    Michael Lerro - 返信

  11. バッテリーを取り外します。
    • バッテリーを取り外します。

終わりに

デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。スマートフォンを再度組み立てるときは、必要なところに新しい接着剤を塗布してください。

111 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Dominik Schnabelrauch

メンバー登録日: 2016年11月23日

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In case anyone is wondering, I was able to get the two small back covers to reassemble without using new adhesive. I didn’t have any on hand so I just used a heat gun to warm the adhesive that was left over and firmly held them in place. So far it seems to be holding well.

Vince Cipriani - 返信

Adhesive? I’m wondering what kind of adhesive to use for reassembly?

antoine courtemanche - 返信

Didn’t need any additional adhesive and the iopener worked fine for both loosening adhesive for disassembly and getting it sticky again for reassembly.. Managed not to break the glass camera cover!

antoine courtemanche -

any tips on using the iOpener for the top glass? It dosen’t seem to be helping me at all. :(

Ellison Gregg - 返信

These were great instructions, but have to admit this was quite a hair-raising process because of the amount of heat that was required to soften the adhesive and the amount of force needed to pry things apart. Luckily, I have a digital hot air source (Sparkfun 303D) used for surface mount electronics. The safe temperature ended up being about 200 F. If I did it again would be much easier because I know the glass piece at the top is not as fragile as I thought. So, heat gun, definitely. iOpener would be next to useless, especially to loosen under battery. But be careful not to concentrate the heat and melt plastic or make glass crack. Adhesive under battery definitely reusable, easy to peel off old battery. Go slow with the whole process and it will be successful!

Andris Vizulis - 返信

I did mine today. Besides a couple scuffs that are covered by a bumper it is like new again.

My tips: when removing the back glued on parts start at the ends, not middle and use a lot of heat. Mine came up really easy once it got to temp. The case was harder than if thought. I started near the lower speaker. The obvious looking place to pry up is wrong, the outside case lip is very thin and it's easy to try digging up the screen, not the case. Getting the battery out just required a bit more force than I would have thought. But it's all back together and works like new again.

Ed Willson - 返信

Thanks! Wasn’t too bad of a process, but I was expecting the worst. Getting the battery out was the hardest part in my opinion because it was hard to get the glue in that area soft enough.

Tyler Young - 返信

I am happy to report that I was able to do this repair successfully. The hardest parts were removing the glass back (covering the camera) and prying the outside case away from the rest of the phone unit. I definitely purchased the “Technicians Razor Set'“ and am glad I did. I used all the tools listed in the guide (most of which I had earlier from a larger kit). I used the blade that is a rectangle that has a sloping / graded end so that it is real thin at the point of entry and allows you to pry a bit. I tried with the standard “exacto-knife” type end but it didn’t seem to do the trick for me plus I felt it was dangerous to push with force with something that sharp.

Use a heat gun. If you have a hair dryer that gets pretty hot that might work as well. A cheap heat gun makes this SOO much easier. I also happened to have one of those laser surface temperature readers and got the glass up to about 180 Fahrenheit which works well. I got the plastic bottom piece to about 150 to get the glue underneath gooey.

Troy Gaddis - 返信

Great guide; detailed and helpful! Just replaced the battery! Great pictures, too, as it really helped me understand the layout of the internals. I bought the battery from ifixit and the essential electronics toolkit that they sell as well. I honestly don’t think I could have done it without that essential electronics toolkit. I certainly don’t have some of those bits and tools on hand.

Good:

I was able to successfully remove the top part (the glass part) without breaking it. I did reuse it again. I noticed the tiny foam circle that surrounds the camera. If you purchase a replacement glass top part like I did (for the possibility of breaking it when removing it), you may find that the foam circle is a little offset. You also may need to remove the existing foam circle if your replacement glass top has one already attached.

Bad:

The battery’s adhesive is very strong. You will have to work hard to pry the battery off, so don’t panic. Keep at it, little by little.

Michael Sokol - 返信

Successfully completed the battery replacement guide. We were able to complete the entire replacement process with the iOpener, but it was slow. We used an infrared thermometer to measure the surface temperature of the iOpener and the phone, to ensure we were reaching an optimal temperature (about 150F for the plastic cover, 180F for the glass cover, and 145F for the battery).

The battery was slow to remove due to adhesive; be patient. We bent the battery slightly in the process. The image in the guide showing the phone with the battery removed (the image in Step 11) shows a black glue strip to the right of the display cable. When we removed the battery, we saw two black glue strips; one on each side of the display cable.

Catherine Adams - 返信

Great guide! I was sure to ruin something at step 6, but everything works perfectly fine. Great guide!

I only have the Pro Tech Toolkit, and only needed a knife. For the iOpener i had a plastic bag in boiling water. It seemed to do the trick for me (filled up a bag with some water an put it in a kettle with more water. When it boiled, wipe off water from the outside of the plastic bag.

Knut Berg-Domås - 返信

Ich habe meinen Akku gestern getauscht, war eigentlich nicht besonders schwierig mit dieser tollen Anleitung.

Wichtig ist den Kleber mit Wärme zu lösen, dann geht’s recht einfach. Habe dafür einen Heißluftfön auf kleiner Stufe genommen.

Beim “heraushebeln” der Platine muß man schauen wo man die Klinge einführt, ich war anfangs einen Millimeter zu weit innen und somit ließ es sich schlecht hebeln weil ich quasi im Platinenteil war.

Beim Zusammenbau habe ich die beiden Abdeckungen oben und unten nur wieder festgedrückt und dann nochmal ein wenig erwärmt, dadurch mußte ich keinen neuen Kleber verwenden.

Dirk Heimann - 返信

I managed to damage both the top and bottom back pieces (steps 2 & 4). Fortunately, Amazon sells replacements. Got them on order now. The rest of the repair went fine, though. 6P is reassembled and charging.

Steve DeGroof - 返信

Thank you for the excellent guide.

Battery replacement took 3/4 of an hour. Most of this time was waiting patiently for the adhesive to soften on the glass and plastic screw covers. I used my Aoyue 2738 rework station hot air gun at 130 C, this gave me a surface temp of 180 F by my Fluke 52 temp probe. Not having the iFixIt Technician’s razor kit, I resorted to a #11 surgical blade that I normally use for mold making; which worked well enough, apart from my inept handling on the plastic screw cover. BUY the Technicians razor kit.

Also, there is a pry point for the battery directly beneath the buttons that the spudger fits into perfectly I used this to create a gap to allow the hot air to soften the adhesive holding the battery in place. I found that the Jimmy tool worked very well as a lever to hold the battery away from the case; which allowed the hot air to separate the old battery from the adhesive. This obviated inserting any tool deeply enough to damage the cable running beneath the battery.

jms - 返信

Guide excellent

Il faut 1 heure avec un peu de matériels (spatule, cuter). J’ai utilisé un sèche cheveux pas trop chaud pour chauffer la colle. Pour la batterie, décollage délicatement au cutter pour soulever le bon côté, et petit écarteur pour maintenir. Ensuite avec une spatule longue et fine, j’ai pu facilement découper la colle en tension. Je passe sur les connecteurs de nappe, c’est démontage classique.

Franck MELS - 返信

Comment à tu réussi à te procurer la batterie sachant que Ixifit ne peut pas l’envoyer en Europe?

Thomas Jousselin -

Is that any place I can get help to replace my battery ?I have an Nexus 6P. Help !!

Connie

connie8069 - 返信

I got mine from Amazon, and the price wasn’t too bad. I just replaced mine, and this one came with tools which helped. I used a hair drier instead of an iopener or heat gun, and it worked okay enough. Took about an hour in total.

David -

In a lot of ways I wish I would have read all the instructions and then the comments before even attempting this. Things would have been a lot easier. I only read maybe 1 step ahead while performing this, and the battery itself was a real issue for me. I ended up ripping apart the covering on the old battery, and while I got it out, smelled a bit odd, so I did the rest outside. I also somewhat recommend discharging the battery entirely before doing this. I found the device was easy to turn on during the process, and if the battery had further issues, it’d be less dangerous than being fully charged.

David - 返信

Well, that wasn’t fun.

The hardest parts BY FAR are the camera glass and bottom cover. There was a moment there where I was considering breaking the glass and just buying a new part, but eventually I got it to let go. The problem is that the glass and metal are VERY tight together, so I had to use a little precision razor to scrape away some of the metal in order to fit it in behind the glass to push it out.

The bottom section came out with some patience, but I ended up warping it with the heat gun trying to melt the glue again. That said, this is the first time I’ve used a heat gun, so YMMV.

The battery we got had a cable that wasn’t quite up to spec, so it’s probably slightly crimped. So far it doesn’t seem to be a problem.

The instructions are definitely helpful, though. Good luck!

pocketdrummer - 返信

Done :-).

The instructions were to the point and helped me to replace the battery.

NB: On my device removing the bottom cover and the camera cover was actually quite smooth. With a little help from my hair dryer I could soften the adhesive enough to carefully remote both covers.

NB2: The two hardest parts for me were to pry the alluminum back cover from the display and removing the battery as the adhesive keeping it in place was quite reilient ;-) (I used an old laminated card which worked well for the purpose of seperating the battery from the device). In the process of getting the knife beween the display glass and the cover I slightly damaged the display seal. Nothing big but I could have avoided it I think if I would have known about the seal.

Many thanks for the instructions… I am curious if my Nexus will last another 3 years now.

Marcel Duda - 返信

Done.

I wanted to order the battery via iFixit, but as I am living in France the transport costs were too high. I ordered a simular battery at Amazone France.

The instruction are very clear.

Arie van Boxel - 返信

My Nexus 6p battery had died on me some time ago while on a 2yr assignment, and while in Thailand I bought a Hauwei Nova 2i as areplacement, which worked fine for Google Fi for the rest of my assignement in India. However, once I returned Home back to USA the Google FI SIM would not work. I bought a Battery for the old Nexus 6p and replaced it today, no problems. I used a portable oven to heat up the glass and the plastic piece enough to gently pry the Glass and the plastic cover off. The battery came off pretty easily by using a plastic pry bar and pushing a guitar pick under the battery at different points while continuing with even pressure of the pry bar. it does help to heat up the whole phone a little to remove the battery.

fscotthall - 返信

I found the hardest part was getting the camera glass off, or at least hot enough to make it come off easier. I did not have a heat gun, and using the iOpener didn’t seem to heat it up enough (worked fine for heating the bottom panel). I tried a hair dryer, but I may have not heated it up long enough. I unfortunately broke my camera glass, but was able to purchase new glass, 2 for 9 dollars (extra one just in case). One other thing I noticed, be sure your using a very thin razor blade. I have a kit that had various thickness of blades, and I wasn’t paying attention to that and caused nicks in the back panel where I was was trying to wedge the glass away from the back panel. Using a thinner blade worked out a lot better. After that, everything was pretty easy, When putting back together, suggest before you replace back panel, make sure everything turns back on as expected, then put it back on. Save you from having to take apart again if a connector wasn’t fully connected.

MoniQx4 - 返信

Just completed this repair tonight, great guide per usual iFixit standards! Used a hot pad filled with beans in leu of an iOpener, this worked well for removing the bottom plastic, but wasn’t enough heat for the glass. As noted in many other comments, a heat gun is the way to go, though don’t have one, so used a hair dryer instead. The glass needs a lot of heat to lift freely, and much patience. While trying to pry up the glass too soon, I did crack the glass, would recommend starting to pry the glass from the non camera side (right side) first. If you crack the glass there, it won’t interfere with the camera. Was able to reheat all adhesive to put all the pieces back together, even the cracked glass - which is hidden by the case :)

Blake Anderson - 返信

in addition to these steps and tools shown here, which worked great, I also used a video from repair universe which shows step by step and was also helpful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEQbQPAU...

Thanks ifixit!

Jared Meadows - 返信

I bought the 6p battery from Ifixit. After spending a good 30 minutes tearing the phone apart. I discovered their replacement battery is about an 1/8” taller than OEM and WILL NOT FIT in the phone Period. How can sell your customers a battery that won’t fit??????? I wrote them this morning about this issue and still waiting on a reply.

Carolina hiker - 返信

Easy and quick in under 30 minutes. Though, I did get a bad battery. It arrived and when connected was at 4% so I charged. It went to 100% real fast in under 1 hour. I then sat it down untouched and in the morning it was dead. So I plugged it into the charger in the morning, the same thing - it charge real fast. When I went to start the phone it started up, the screen came on then the battery went from 100% to 0% then shut down within seconds.

Brian Krecik - 返信

I as well, did not use adhesive other than what was left over from disassembly. I used a heat gun as suggested and a infrared thermometer to about 200 f to come apart, and back together for softening the old adhesive. All went well and I am now doing the initial charge to calibrate. Thanks to all that contributed, especially the author!

LeoJr Lawver - 返信

Good instructions. Just remember to push the knife blade in right next to the aluminium case or you will damage the plastic surround. The obvious place to stick the blade in is not the correct spot! Look carefully.

My kit came with a new glass camera cover but I could have reused the old one. The glue would have held.

I used a heat gun to heat things a bit but I am well experienced as to what it too much heat.

frostyfriday - 返信

My first time doing something like this so thank god for this guide. Despite it being labeled “Difficult” I wouldn’t exactly say its difficult so much as annoying because of all the adhesives and how tight the covers & camera glass is. Honestly if anything I would say buy yourself a replacement at least for the camera glass ahead of time. Its not expensive and its very likely you’re going to break the glass during removal to get at the screws underneath. Otherwise a $20 tool kit from iFixit and $20 in parts off of Amazon saved me from having to buy a new phone because of a bad battery. Worth the investment and the fight for our right to repair.

Ronald Festa - 返信

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