はじめに
The machine in question is from Magimix. The other available version (Krups) is very similar and this guide should be applicable to those.
First of all consider your machine’s warranty (usually 2 years), after (partial) disassembly you’re not eligible for warranty anymore.
Unplug the machine and find a workplace that you’re not afraid to scratch, which I found out the hard way.
必要な工具と部品
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Remove all water from the system. (From the Nespresso manual.)
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image 2: exploded view of the machine. Source: buyspares.com
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Pull straight forward with a fair amount of force.
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Once you hear a click, pull the part straight down. This should go easilly.
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Use a T20 torx bit (star-shaped). A screwdriver that fits should work fine.
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Close the cup-holder firmly.
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Photos 2 and 3, push the screwdriver in and wiggle a bit to undo the clips. There's a total of 4 clips.
Il serait bien de préciser de quel couvercle latéral on parle : le droit ou le gauche ? Merci.
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Make sure the notch lines up.
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Pull the cover away. Once there's a little room, move your fingers up a bit and pull on the sides.
This is quite delicate, scary and slow! There are more clips and the side can get stuck on the metal lugs that stick out the side. You may have to ease the plastic cover over them.
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Repeat on the other side
La photo avec la main me semble trop zoomée. Un plan plus large serait plus explicite. Merci.
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Unplug the device first! Remove ground, live and neutral wires.
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Remove the whole wire from its slot.
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Pry loose on these four spots and remove.
When your machine is leaking, this is the right moment to diagnose it once this step is done. I suspect most pressure is on the parts when using a new cup. Screw back the lever to insert a new cup. Reconnect the power cord and put the water tank seat back on so the water container can be used.
When putting the machine back together this point is obviously also the right time to test if everything is working (again) as expected.
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Photo 1: Using leverage, pull up.
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Photo 2: unclip the two clips on the inside of the cover.
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Photo 3: turn over and lift the cover off.
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Push on the assembly, front to back, to free up the lever seats. Then pull them out.
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The top part can be removed by having the metal pins follow the slots in an L shape.
Il porta capsula può essere rimosso sganciando le due linguette;
sotto c'è un O-ring che più perdere acqua in pressione che poi fuoriesce sotto la macchina in funzione!
Qualcuno sa dove posso trovare l'O-ring di ricambio???
Grazie!
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Mark one of the black leads for proper reinstallation.
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Remove the yellow and brown wire.
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And the white connector.
When putting the machine back together make sure the spring on the bottom of the pump is propely back in the seating. If not the machine will resonate like crazy.
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These clips are tricky to remove. The plastic rectangles housing the wire clips are part of the U-pipe. Bear this in mind when detaching the U-pipe from the two other (pump and boiler) pipes - which have cone shaped flanges; easy to push U-pipe faces onto, hard to detach.
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Using the perspective of Photo1 for reference, for ease of working, ensure the background is down towards the floor, and ensure the metal pipe is braced, directly or via the boiler resting on a non-slip surface like a rubber mat or carpeted floor. Set-up the equivalent if working from the pump end of the U-pipe.
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Push a 2.5mm thick pointed tool (rod or flat) into the wire loop that emerges from the centre-bottom of the plastic face. Do not make the loop emerge farther, but you can widen it <1mm with a suitable width screwdriver.
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Left and right shoulders of the wire clip are to be pulled apart as far as the plastic face will allow. Start by inserting (and leaving in place) similar 2.5mm-3.5mm thick pointed/tapered tools between the outside edge of the plastic face and the exposed wire ends. Insert near each shoulder.
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With the wire clip being held apart in three places, check that the wire in the centre of the plastic face is not still hugging the pipe but is just proud of the rim of the cone-flange. Another pointed tool may be needed to manipulate the rest of the wire over the edge of the cone-flange.
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With the perspective of photo1 (or equivalent view from the pump), use a finger either side of the pipe to push the plastic face away from the boiler or away from the pump (towards the floor if positioned as advised earlier). The plastic face may need rocking during this process to manipulate any remaining wire over the last sub-mm of flange.
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The joint should disconnect gracefully. If the joint does not disconnect, examine the centre hole of the plastic face again, checking where the wire is fouling the cone-flange. Reposition the three other pointed tools -previously left in place holding the wire apart- as necessary.
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The 'O' ring each end of the plastic U-pipe will be easily accessible once the joint is apart. The inner diameter is approx 3mm. Outer diameter is approx 5mm ('O' ring is 1mm thick).
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Photo 1 and 2, note the tapered edges, these hold the wire clip in place. Reinstallation is simple, just push the on again.
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This was as far as I was able to go. In my case the part shown on the right in photo 3 was leaking in between the metal and plastic. Sadly it couldn't be disassembled any further.
Van you mark the spot where it was leaking?
I noticed the water in between the plastic and metal part. Only later I was able to take the heater apart with force, the leak was inside, in de middle.
The black part twists a bit to one side that way you can get it off. Needs quite some force, though!
I have a leak at exactly the same spot. How do you fix this? I first thought it was the small o-ring, but I think it's where the heating pipe exits the heater…
I had the same issue and by rotating the plastic part this can be removed from the boiler housing. Inside there is a small o-ring which in my case was worn. Now need to find replacement ring…
Hey Jeroen, I had the same leakage problem, and want to replace the o ring! did you manage to find out which o ring you need? I suspect it is this one, but not sure: https://www.partsnl.nl/ms-0019105-krups-...
Hello, I did not test yet but I replaced the Oring by a nitrile P5 (4.8x1.9) Oring from a Oring kit I have. It fits well and need a little push that feel secured. I recommend nitrile Oring given the temperature and not rubber.
Also got it off, using a screw driver on on side to rotate to the side where there is visibly space to move to. Inside tough, I couldn't find anything, also not that o - ring! Tomorrow I'll take another look I guess. I was wondering if any of you managed to fix the leakage problem in the end, as it seems I have the same problem (magimix m105)
Hi, I had the same problem and arrived to the same step, but I couldn't remove the plastic part from the metal part. In fact I broke a bit the plastic part when forcing it.
I would also like to know if anyone finally fixed it.
Thanks!
Hi, I am close, just ordered a new o ring and will try to assemble tonight or tomorrow, I could show you a little video how to do it if you give me your email, I don't know how to post it here.
I managed to separate the heater from black inner. Held in a vice, gentle tap to turn clockwise and it opens.
There is a little o-ring inside the end of the black plastic. I pulled it out cleaned and reversed it back in.
re-assembled it does not appear to leak, for now at least.
Do you happen to have pictures of the process? I have the same issue and can’t split the heater from the front plastic panel
Can you please show some photos of how to split the black plastic from the heater? Thank you very much in advance
Anyone find the right o-ring to fix the leakage. I tried 2 different one, it all seems to thinner than the original one
VauWeh -
Hi everyone. I seem to have the same exact leak as you all do but haven’t managed to separate the heater from the plastic part yet. I wasn’t planning to as I wanted to fully replace the part. And well, I didn’t think it would be so complicated to find that spare part. You can easily get it from european websites but it’s 230V… For some reason, I cannot find the heater element in 120V through North-American sellers… does anyone know where I could buy one? Thanks a lot :)
Hello Sir. May I ask except for the heater, is there any other part only work in 120V? I have a broken 120v machine ( CPU board broken ) and another broken 220V machine (black plastic part in the heater broken). I want to put the 220v CPU board and heater into the 120V machine. I am wondering if the pump is working on 120V? or it works on a fixed Voltage output by the CPU board? Thank you in advance.
Hoi, Ik wil de Inissia aanpassen voor camping gebruik. Hiervoor zou ik een diode vb P2000M in lijn moeten zetten met de verwarmingsweerstand. Ik heb geprobeerd om de diode in de gele draad te zetten die naar het drukblok loopt (de gele draad die in stap 11 is te zien). Maar dat werkt niet. Het resultaat is een toestel waarvan de lampjes 3 keer kort flitsen, pauze en weer 3 keer kort flitsen. De diode zit dus mogelijk op de verkeerde plaats. Kunnen jullie me verder helpen?
I used a large crowbar as a lever to open the brew unit's bayonet assembly. As mentioned elsewhere, the size of the o-ring (in the cavity of the large black plastic part into which the small black plastic sleeve and metal pipe slide) is 4.8x1.9 mm. In my case, replacing this o-ring did not stop the leakage. A lot of work with no favourable end result. The brew unit does not seem to be made for repair. Regarding the two metal springs and the tiny pipe in the middle of them (behind the cup holder), the following video is useful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TY_B_Ytz...
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Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. The next steps are some points of note.
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Photo 1: reverse of step 11: The easiest way to reassemble the side is to lay it flat and lower the inner body onto the side.
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Photo 2: reverse of step 11: Make sure the black line goes over the white one.
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Fit the rubber collar back over the pump.
Also photo 2: make sure the spring is pushing against the plastic flange, and not going through it as pictured. The machine will be very noisy otherwise.
Please clarify do you mean the tube should not be within the spring?
anony Ab -
I think he means that in my photo, on the right side of the spring it went through the cutout in the plastic housing. The tube does need to go through the spring, but the spring needs to be a bit more compressed to seat in the plastic rim. Imagine the spring in my photo to be compressed to about half its current length and it's still touching the left white plastic part.
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Photo 1: Don't forget this cover.
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Photo 2: reverse of step 10: make sure the clips line up with the slots.
This machine seems to be identical to the Krupps model XN1001. Your instructions were very helpful with the reassembly.
Hey, my nespresso inissia’s cup holder fell off when I was emptying the used pods. I can’t seem to re-attach it. I didn’t find any broken or missing parts either. Please can you contact me on my email: sheza.umar@yahoo.com if you can help me out with it? Thank you!
Sheza Umar - 返信
My clips don't secure the tube to the water heater, leading to leakage. How do you secure the clips? I ended up buying some new clips thinking it would make a difference but they are still very loose and don't hold the tube in
Would you know the size of the o ring in the chamber?
kristopher - 返信
Traducido a Español el comentario de Matthias:
Gracias, esta descripción me ayudó mucho a reparar mi DeLongi Tipo EN 80 B (igual). Mi problema era una junta tórica en la bomba (diámetro interior 4,1 x 2). Se estaba endureciendo y la bomba ya no funcionaba. La cambié por una de diámetro 3,5 x 2 y la máquina vuelve a hacer buen café.
Me ha venido perfecto tu manual, la férrea me pierde Justo por la unión que comentas y he desmontado la pieza! Para sacarla es necesario girarla el sentido horario con fuerza pero con tiento, y ahí se aloja un sello que se deforma con el tiempo.
Jero Calvo - 返信
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order, please take note of steps 19 and 20.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order, please take note of steps 19 and 20.
69 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
22 件のコメント
I wanted to diagnose a leak so I took it apart to about step 10, set the water tank in place, plugged it in, and started a cycle. The heater got hot (the large metal assembly at the top) and when the pump came water gushed out of the joint with the tricky spring clip, the rear one that connects to the metal pipe leading into the heater.
I disassembled the clip (unplugged first and let it cool off) and found that the O-ring inside the joint was split. Now to find a replacement.
Hi Leon, thanks for taking the time to make this guide.
I followed to step 11. Then I noticed the boiler had lots of white limescale streaks on it, indicating a leak. I think this is the part you diagnosed as leaking for you. I’ve decided to give up unfortunately.
Cheers John
John Moule - 返信
There's another stage you can go! The plastic moulding the pod fits into can be removed from the boiler casting. You need to rotate the moulding about 15° clockwise on the boiler using a bit of leverage between the trunions and the moulding both sides. It's rather stiff but once turned it releases a sort of bayonet fitting retaining the moulding to the boiler.
Inside there's another ‘O' ring, that can be suspect for a leak, and a plastic sleeve behind it.
Thank you! Great addition.
do you know the size of the o-ring?
Alex, I haven't measured or taken pictures. The ring is approx 8 mm in diameter (from memory!). Don't know is this is of much use for you, though.
Good luck!
the seal is 4.8x1.9mm
Well done Steven Wilkes
This is a nice guide for a machine that I found to be a nightmare to work on - mainly due to the (all too common) practice of using snap-together plastic components, rather than screws. After the plastic has aged for a few years it inevitably becomes brittle and the clips often break during disassembly. My machine was a Krups Nissia XN100 model what was just on five years old. While there were some differences in the design, your guide was very useful - particularly so because your photos are clear and detailed. I found a leak at the “front” of the heater at the join to the black plastic moulding that forms part of the heater assembly. In an earlier comment, I saw that it’s possible to separate the plastic moulding from the heater so that the O-ring seal can be replaced. Despite applying quite a lot of force, I couldn’t get mine apart :-( I’ve since found that I can buy a new machine for less than three times the cost of a new heater assembly, so I decided to abandon the repair.
Can someone tell me if there is a small circuit-board battery in there that one can remove/replace to reset the machine?
Thanks for this excellent guide. I am nearly there, a utube video suggests it is an o ring. Just need to get the second inner side off now and I should be there! I suspect I will need glue/gaffer tape to re-assemble, I heard a lot of clips breaking to get to this stage…..
This video might help too: https://youtu.be/TY_B_Ytz0Yw
Great helpful guide! My heater assembly was leaking. Ordered a new one on partmaster.co.uk which was half the price of one on a Dutch website. For certainty I also replaced the high pressure connector and o-rings.
I also had a leak between the metal and plastic part of the heater assembly. This was due to a worn o-ring. I could get the plastic part removed by rotating and applying a bit of force. I replaced the o-ring with a new MS-0071881 but still it was leaking. I assumed due to little pressure reamaining. I added a second o-ring on the other side of the small plastic pipe inside the boiler, this added just some extra pressure on the new sealing ring to make it seal.
Buongiorno, la mia inissia si surriscalda troppo, dopo un solo caffè diventa bollente nella parte superiore, il caffè è ustionante, prima di berlo devono passare almeno 7/8 minuti. Cosa può essere?
Mrci bcp vip
For the Magimix the O-ring in the chamber has OD 32mm with a ringwidth of 3mm, so ID(32-6=)26 Look for FDA/ Foodgrade O-rings, with compound ‘70’. They are availlable online (in the Netherlands at least, prices range from eur 8,50 (10-pack) to eur 6,50 a piece.)
Type info: O-ring 32x3 - VMQ - MVQ - Silicone - 70 Shore A - Red - FDA - ORS9901
Excelente informe de despiece, muchas gracias por compartirlo
can someone tell me why there isnt any water coming out of my machine, yes the pump does still turn onn but there isnt any water coming out.
cuando pulso los botones,se encienden los dos haciendo pausas cada tres encendidos ,y no paran que puede ser el motivo ??, gracias
moy5099 - 返信
Prueba esto: Apague la máquina, mantenga pulsado el botón derecho (vaso grande) hasta que el botón izquierdo parpadee 3 veces, listo. Si esto no funciona: Apague, desenchufe, espere 1min, enchufe y continúe como arriba.
Si tienes mala suerte, esta es la causa: Nespresso CitiZ Kondensatoren tauschen
VauWeh -
Nello spaccato manca la parte che sta a contatto con le capsule e la leggenda con i numeri di riferimento dei pezzi.
Riccardo Ricci - 返信