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修理を始めるには

修理する権利

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はじめに

Microsoft Surface Pro 5のタッチスクリーンとディスプレイを取り外すための修理ガイドです。Microsoft Surface Pro(2017)とも呼ばれています。

  1. 作業を始める前にSurface Proのバッテリーを25%未満に放電してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーは、修理中不意に衝撃を受けると燃えたり、爆発したりする可能性があります。
    • 作業を始める前にSurface Proのバッテリーを25%未満に放電してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーは、修理中不意に衝撃を受けると燃えたり、爆発したりする可能性があります。

    • ディスプレイはデバイスのフレームに接着剤で頑丈に固定されています。

    • ディスプレイを外すには、熱で温めて接着剤を柔らかくします。ヒートパッド、ヒートガン、 iOpenerを使用することもできます。急を要する時は、ヘアドライヤーでも対応できます。

    • ヒートガンを使用する際は、オーバーヒートしないようにご注意ください。バッテリーやディスプレイに永続的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    • ディスプレイの周辺が、熱くなって触れない程度まで温まるように、均等に少しずつ熱を加えます。数分間、同じ温度を保てるようにしてください。

  2. 吸盤またはiSclackをガラスに吸着させ、ガラスと金属フレームとの間にわずかな隙間を作ります。 ディスプレイの亀裂がひどいと、吸盤が吸着しないことがあります。あらかじめディスプレイに梱包用テープを貼り付けておくと上手く行きやすいようです。または、吸盤をディスプレイに固く接着することも可能です。
    • 吸盤またはiSclackをガラスに吸着させ、ガラスと金属フレームとの間にわずかな隙間を作ります。

    • ディスプレイの亀裂がひどいと、吸盤が吸着しないことがあります。あらかじめディスプレイに梱包用テープを貼り付けておくと上手く行きやすいようです。または、吸盤をディスプレイに固く接着することも可能です。

    • 開口ピックを隙間に差し込みます。

    • 開口ピックをディスプレイの端と底部に沿ってスライドさせて、接着剤を剥がします。必要に応じてさらに加熱します。

    • ガラスは薄く、無理に力をかけると簡単に亀裂が入ってしまうため、慎重に作業を行ってください。

    • 上端は最後に分離します。両側にアンテナがあるため、これらを損傷しないように注意してください。必要な場合は、無水エタノールを少量使用して、接着剤をほぐすことも可能です。

    The screen switch out took me over 8 hours of slow, meticulous, work, for this being my first time attempt at such a fix. As suggested here, my broken screen shattered even more despite taking care and taping it to reduce or prevent more shattering which added greatly to the time needed to fix. I found it helpful to work to separate the screen from the adhesive so that the adhesive remained behind and acted as a protective layer for the antennae. Once the glass was off, I went back and removed the glass shards from the adhesive with a plastic spudger and only replaced the adhesive that I had removed adding new adhesive to the gaps which worked well.

    Lauren Alvarado - 返信

    I just couldn’t get this method to work with an unbroken screen. However much I applied heat with a heat gun and heaved on the suction cup, it just wouldn’t move. What did work was applying a more gentle heat and sliding a razor blade along the edge until it was loose enough to get a plastic pick in. I was able to remove the screen intact but unfortunately it was already damaged by the extreme heat I had used to begin with.

    Hugh Coleman - 返信

  3. The Essential Toolkit

    コンパクト版iFixitキットの中で最も利便性の高いツール

    ショップを見る

    The Essential Toolkit

    コンパクト版iFixitキットの中で最も利便性の高いツール

    ショップを見る
  4. プラスチックの開口ツールを使って、小さなリボンケーブルポートを覆っているメタルシールドをこじ開けます。 小さなリボンケーブルをナイロン製スパッジャーでこじ開けて、接続を外します。
    • プラスチックの開口ツールを使って、小さなリボンケーブルポートを覆っているメタルシールドをこじ開けます。

    • 小さなリボンケーブルをナイロン製スパッジャーでこじ開けて、接続を外します。

    Be very careful here. The ribbon cables are quite fragile.

    Hugh Coleman - 返信

  5. プラスチック開口ツールを使って、大型のリボンケーブルポートを覆っているメタルシールドをこじ開けて、取り出します。 大型のリボンケーブルをナイロン製スパッジャーでこじ開けて、接続を外します。
    • プラスチック開口ツールを使って、大型のリボンケーブルポートを覆っているメタルシールドをこじ開けて、取り出します。

    • 大型のリボンケーブルをナイロン製スパッジャーでこじ開けて、接続を外します。

    There is a small battery logo near the battery on the motherboard , it looks like a battery out of juice logo, you want to short the two parts of the logo together (so that the red led next to it turns off) so that the battery isnt powering the motherboard anylonger so that you dont blow backlight or any other circuts

    aaron stevenson - 返信

    I’d love for this to be true, but I’ve searched very thoroughly and I don’t see it. Checked the Surface Pro 4 and SP6 as well. AFAIK there’s no way to disconnect the battery. Just wasn’t designed to be serviced at all.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s there and it works! Thanks!

    Jay Bremner - 返信

    • デバイスの残りからスクリーンを取り出します。

    • スクリーンを固定している接着剤を交換するには、デバイスとディスプレイの背面の両方から古い接着剤を慎重に取り除きます。 イソプロピルアルコールと糸くずの出ない布で表面を清掃して準備し、一方向に(前後ではなく)拭きます。 2 mm Tesa 61395などの強力な両面テープを貼ります。

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

20 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

100%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! あなたも貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Caleb Granch

メンバー登録日: 2017年10月02日

512 ポイント

2のガイドは作成済み

チーム

Cal Poly, Team S15-G3, Livingston Fall 2017 Cal Poly, Team S15-G3, Livingston Fall 2017人のメンバー

CPSU-LIVINGSTON-F17S15G3

3 メンバー

22のガイドは作成済み

21 件のコメント

Hello Caleb, I am having trouble sourcing a replacement screen. Do you have any suggestions?

Cameron Wells - 返信

There are china ones on eBay now.

Homer D -

Why remove the ribbon cables from the motherboard side (where you have to pry off covers) and not from the LCD? Also, do the covers need to be replaced?

Homer D - 返信

I helped remove the LCD. No technical reason other than ease of access. It was easier to reach the connection points on the motherboard than on the LCD screen. The screen doesn’t lift up very far, making it tough to get at those connections on the screen. But either way should work fine.

The covers don’t need to be replaced. They are thin metal and are held in place by the small tabs you see around the edges. Those covers were fairly pliable, robust enough to handle lifting them off. Just don’t go folding them like a piece of paper :)

Paul Manzer -

After replacing the LCD + Digitizer Assembly I have no backlight. The Screen is responsive to touch and does display but you have to hold it at a certain angle to see anything the screen is so dim. Any suggestions for why the backlight may not be working? I reattached the old display and the backlight doesn’t work on it either anymore. I’m hoping that there is just an issue with the LCD Cable…

Joe Setterbo - 返信

I have the same problem. No back light!

Benjamin Ille -

my screen has these “internal cracks” touchscreen works just the screen looks cracked but isnt.

Aamin Ojha - 返信

like phyycally cracked

Aamin Ojha - 返信

Hey author, you might want to mention that if you insert the pick or credit card any further than about 5mm on lower edge of the screen, you can probably kiss it goodbye. The bottom edge bezel is less than half as wide as the other three sides and far more vulnerable (there is a tissue paper thin ribbon cable with about 30 conductors under the leftmost of the the three pieces of black tape).

In the garbage it goes.

Milk Manson - 返信

I fractured my screen in manner that the top was not able to come off with the rest of the screen. I understand there are antenas stuck to the adhesive, so I can't just remove the adhesive. Is there anyway out of this mess?

Ramses Angles - 返信

If you haven’t ripped off the antennae from below the adhesive you can still use a plastic spuger to remove the adhesive from the antenae if necessary. I actually did my best to leave the adhesive to use again where there wasn’t broken glass stuck to it. In that way the adhesive protected the antennas which I hadn’t ripped off plus I didn’t have to reapply adhesive all the way around the edge. Then, I just went back with a plastic spuger and very carefully removed the adhesive from on top of the antennae with great success before adding adhesive where necessary. Good luck!

Lauren Alvarado -

The iOpener did not work for me but a heat gun loosened the adhesive very well.

curnutteb - 返信

Upon the reinstall of the new screen, is new adhesive required? If so, where does one source this - not listed in the parts store (after a search for Surface Pro)?

Jesse Espe - 返信

I partially added new adhesive to areas where I had to remove adhesive for my glass shattering. I actually used double sided sticky tape of the proper thickness from a craft store like Michael’s and it worked just fine in combination with the old adhesive I left on. Sealed up nice. If you’ve removed all of the adhesive, I recommend adding some so your screen doesn’t pop off and rip your connecting ribbons out causing more issues. Here’s what is recommended in the parts dept:

[リンクされた製品が存在しない、もしくは無効: IF145-283-1]

Lauren Alvarado -

“Upon the reinstall of the new screen, is new adhesive required? If so, where does one source this - not listed in the parts store (after a search for Surface Pro)? “

I would appreciate an answer to this, too. I see that there are a variety of double-sided tapes for sale on this site, but not sure if they are needed and if so, which width is most appropriate. Thanks

Robin Ensom - 返信

@monkey04191775 @sp5 I updated the guide for you with links and information on replacing the adhesive—check the final step and the tools list. Hope this helps!

Jeff Suovanen -

Good Goddess!

I managed to replace my broken screen but it appears that my digitizer that controls my touch screen is not working.

It’s possible despite my care, that I damaged or didn't connect the digitizer correctly,.

Although, it seemed like the securing flap closed on the pins or it didn’t and mind did.

Deleting / installing new drivers didn't fix the dige issue, I tried everything I could think to no avail but I’m happy to use the touch pad or a mouse.

The screen switch out took over 8 hours of slow, meticulous, work, for this being my first time attempt at such a fix.

I shattered my old broken screen quite a bit despite taking care and taping it to reduce or prevent more shattering which added to the time needed to fix.

The risk of opening up the Surface a 2nd time to see about the digitizer is not worth the risk of shattering the screen again, at least for me.

Overall I do feel very accomplished and am happy with my results.

I would do the whole thing over again.

Thx!

Lauren Alvarado - 返信

The 2 ribbon cables connecting the screen to the motherboard are very easily torn………. but can be replaced

Alan Sears -

I would suggest watching this video first……….. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dP35bO-T...

Alan Sears - 返信

To any one with their touchscreen not working after repair:

I had the same issue, but got it working.

It’s extremely important to properly insert the 2 cables from the new screen to the “Reverse L”-shaped circuit board.

Took me 3 tries:

1st try, no touch functionality at all. Figured I’d retry as I hadn’t yet sealed the device back up.

2nd try, the touchscreen went crazy, registering “taps” without me touching it. This was progress! From there, I knew there was a good chance one of the cables weren’t seated properly.

3rd try (took 20-30 mins to get the cables in properly), it worked!

The cables go in much further than it initially appears & the flap still closes even if not in all the way.

There are notches on both sides of the cables which must clear the tiny metal pieces on both sides of the female connection.

I had to actually move the entire L-shaped piece closer to those two cables to get a solid connection.

For me, the cables also needed to be lifted slightly while inserting them.

Hopefully this helps someone!

Justin Klein - 返信

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