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修理を始めるには

修理する権利

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はじめに

どうやってMicrosoft Surface Pro 4のバッテリーを取り外して交換するのかを書いています。

  1. 作業を始める前にSurface Proのバッテリーを25%未満に放電してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーは、修理中不意に衝撃を受けると燃えたり、爆発したりする可能性があります。
    • 作業を始める前にSurface Proのバッテリーを25%未満に放電してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーは、修理中不意に衝撃を受けると燃えたり、爆発したりする可能性があります。

    • 作業に取り掛かる前に、デバイスの電源が切れていることを確認してください。

    • ディスプレイが割れている場合、ガラス片をガムテープで包んで怪我を防止してください。

  2. ディスプレイはデバイスのフレームに固く接着されています。
    • ディスプレイはデバイスのフレームに固く接着されています。

    • ディスプレイを取り外すには、まず加熱して接着剤を柔らかくします。ヒートパッド、ヒートガン、iOpenerなどを使用できます。これらがない場合は、ヘアドライヤーでも作業が可能です。

    • 加熱しすぎるとディスプレイに回復不能な損傷を与えるおそれがあるため、ヒートガンを使用する際は注意してください。

    • 徐々に、かつ均等にディスプレイの周囲を加熱します。この際、過度に加熱しないように、触れる程度の高温を数分間維持します。加熱しすぎるとディスプレイが損傷することがあります。

    Instead of heating the glass directly, apply a light amount of heat to slightly soften the adhesive as you go and use a all metal xacto knife. Heat the knife blade directly and cut through the foam inside like butter. Stop every 3 inches and place some paper or spacer to keep the glass off the foam. Start at the top right or left side where there is an indent. On the bottom and side only need to go in 1/4”, top more like 1/2”.

    Ken Richards - 返信

  3. 吸盤またはiSclackをガラスに吸着させ、ガラスと金属フレームとの間にわずかな隙間を作ります。 ディスプレイの亀裂がひどいと、吸盤が吸着しないことがあります。あらかじめディスプレイに梱包用テープを貼り付けておくと上手く行きやすいようです。または、吸盤をディスプレイに固く接着することも可能です。 開口ピックを隙間に差し込みます。
    • 吸盤またはiSclackをガラスに吸着させ、ガラスと金属フレームとの間にわずかな隙間を作ります。

    • ディスプレイの亀裂がひどいと、吸盤が吸着しないことがあります。あらかじめディスプレイに梱包用テープを貼り付けておくと上手く行きやすいようです。または、吸盤をディスプレイに固く接着することも可能です。

    • 開口ピックを隙間に差し込みます。

    • 右上端と左上端にタブがあります。ここはディスプレイの下に工具を差し込みやすくなっています。

    • 開口ピックをディスプレイの端と底部に沿ってスライドさせて、接着剤を剥がします。必要に応じてさらに加熱します。

    • 底部側の端では、他の3辺よりもテープがかなり薄くなっています。工具を奥に差し込み過ぎると、ディスプレイに回復不能な損傷を与えるおそれがあるため、慎重に行ってください。

    • ガラスは薄く、無理に力をかけると簡単に亀裂が入ってしまうため、慎重に作業を行ってください。

    • 上端は最後に分離します。両側にアンテナがあるため、これらを損傷しないように注意してください。必要な場合は、無水エタノールを少量使用して、接着剤をほぐすことも可能です。

    Do we need to glue the screen back on? How do we do this? What do we use? Thanks for this tutorial. I wonder if it's necessary to completely unplug the screen when replacing just the SSD

    mujzjiggy2k1 - 返信

    They mention separate the top edge last to prevent antenna damage. I tried to be very careful but still ended up damaging 1 of three antennas. The antennas are directly under the glue and aren’t really that fragile. They key is heat. I was trying to be careful that the glue wasn’t hot enough anymore. If the glue is nice and soft it’ll easily separate from the antenna. Too cold and the antenna will stay with the screen…

    tgruetzm - 返信

    WATCH OUT for the digitizer/LCD cables on the bottom left vertical edge, there are two flex cables that connect the digitizer to the LCD screen - make sure you don’t push the prying tool in too far or else you will rip the cables.

    Gorilla - 返信

    Does the replacement screen have the MS logo?

    Harold Guerra - 返信

    The trick is getting this started. I overheated the bottom of my display because the glue did not seem to soften. I found that you could not get any tool into the crack and the glass would not lift away. But in fact you don’t need that much heat. Set your heat gun to 200C (400F). Use a meat thermometer to measure it if needed. Then hold it about 2cm above the edge trying to keep the heat away from the actual screen. Go around and around slowly for a minute or so. Then apply the heat to the top right corner for about 10 seconds, moving the gun the whole time. You can get a guitar pick into the speaker hole and just lift the edge of the screen. Move the pick until you feel the glue is stiff again. Then heat another section of 5 cm for 10 seconds. Move the pick through that section. Shim the parts you have moved through with pieces of thin cardboard. Work slowly around the whole screen and you can remove it without any damage. Good example of this here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egnSNnM7...

    Christopher Thompson - 返信

    DO NOT use picks or pry tools on the top of the screen to the left and right of the webcam and microphone area to separate the adhesive. This is where the antennas are, and sticking a pick in there WILL destroy them, and you will have to order a new part, $30 on ebay. The antennas are closely integrated into the factory adhesive and extremely easily damaged.

    jbhand - 返信

    Another good place to start is actually the hinges on the left and right sides. In addition to the narrowed adhesive, and the iSclack, a plastic or vinyl hook can be inserted, if you are very careful, into the opening for the hinge to provide some internal leverage, and that may be enough to separate the glue.

    Surface Rescue - 返信

  4. 吸盤をディスプレイの前面に吸着させます。 吸盤を使用して、ディスプレイを引っ張ってベースから分離します。手でベースを保持しなければならないこともあります。
    • 吸盤をディスプレイの前面に吸着させます。

    • 吸盤を使用して、ディスプレイを引っ張ってベースから分離します。手でベースを保持しなければならないこともあります。

    • 吸盤をスクリーンの中央ではなく、左または右端に取り付けたほうがいい場合も多いです。これにより、スクリーンの取り外しの際に、さらに大きな力が得られます。

    If you pull the screen away from the chassis as much as is shown in this image, you WILL break either the LCD display cable or the digitizer cable. Be extremely careful when separating the display from the body as these cables are super brittle and thin.

    jbhand - 返信

  5. 本体をディスプレイに接続している2本のディスプレイケーブルがあります。 コネクタ端の下にプラスチック製開口ツールを差し込み、持ち上げて、右側のケーブルの接続を外します。
    • 本体をディスプレイに接続している2本のディスプレイケーブルがあります。

    • コネクタ端の下にプラスチック製開口ツールを差し込み、持ち上げて、右側のケーブルの接続を外します。

    You can disconnect from the lcd rather than the motherboard, each cable has an EMI shield, a metal cover, over the connector, and the shield must be pried off first, then they disconnect easily by just prying up on the connectors

    Glen D - 返信

    Don’t open the screen too much when trying to disconnect the cable, or the cable itself might break, like mine did.

    Adrien Crivelli - 返信

    Mine had metal casings over both connectors (see next step).

    David Hill - 返信

    Be very careful, those cables tear really really easily. They’re like paper. I’d suggest putting that as a warning in red at the top of this guide.

    dustinmajewski82 - 返信

    What's names of that cables?

    Shady - 返信

    Is it possible to connect surfaces pro's screen to the laptop motherboard ?

    What I need to do it

    Shady - 返信

  6. 左側のケーブルの接続部は、軽量の金属カバーで覆われています。スパッジャーを使用して、カバーの周囲に沿ってこじ開けます。カバーが緩んだら取り外してください。 プラスチック製開口ツールでコネクタを外します。 プラスチック製開口ツールでコネクタを外します。
    • 左側のケーブルの接続部は、軽量の金属カバーで覆われています。スパッジャーを使用して、カバーの周囲に沿ってこじ開けます。カバーが緩んだら取り外してください。

    • プラスチック製開口ツールでコネクタを外します。

    • これでディスプレイをSurface Proのボディから取り外せます。ディスプレイを持ち上げて、デバイスの他の部分から取り外します。

    • 新しいディスプレイを取り付ける前に、古いディスプレイの背面から、新しいディスプレイに移植する必要がある部品がないかどうかを慎重に確認します。特に、隅にあるNTrigボードは、2本のリボンケーブルを取り外した後、ボードをしっかりと固定している接着剤を加熱し、ゆっくりと剥がして慎重に分離してから、移植する必要があります。

    • ディスプレイを固定している接着剤を交換するには、ディスプレイの背面とデバイスから古い接着剤を慎重に除去します。無水エタノールと糸くずの出ない布を使用して、往復ではなく1方向に拭って表面を清掃します。厚さ2 mmのTesa 61395などの強力な両面テープを貼り付けます。

    I've done many phones and ipads in the past. I did 2 of these in a row. Both screens were broken before hand but I was unable to remove either of them completely without leaving fragments around the frame. This would suggest that replacing the drive on one with a good screen will require a replacement of the screen too. Do not put a tool into the speaker areas as it mushes up the screen and requires you to glue the screens back in. The screens I purchased did not have adhesive with them so you need to apply that before plugging the screen back in. I ran 1 or 2 stips of 2 mm tape depending on the with of the contact area. There was a metal cover over the right hand connector on mine. I found the metal covers easier to remove with a dental pick which I inserted into the small holes on each tab then levered up. You have to transfer a small board over to the new screen which requires heating. Make sure to connect the LCD to that board before sticking it back down. Ken Davison meditlondon.com

    ken - 返信

    What adhesive do you recommend?

    Chris P -

    3M 9448A Double Coated Tissue Tape I just did my 3rd (10 min…I don’t think so) especially if display is shattered, this last screen came with tape strips and the backing looks exactly like this one I posted same color and lettering, its very mushy, rubbery make sure screen is perfectly aligned because once this stuff sticks thats it, no adjustment possible. I used a paper cutter the guillotine type to make the different widths from 1/4” strips.

    Ed tabickman -

    It took 1.5 hours to do the second one.

    ken - 返信

    Highly suggest testing the new screen before gluing it in. Making certain you got all the connections done right.

    dustinmajewski82 - 返信

  7. どちらのヒートシンクもメタル製ケースで覆われたパネルを通じて、マザーボードに繋がっています。 端周辺をこじ開けて、ケースを取り出し、全体が緩くなったら持ち上げます。 端周辺をこじ開けて、ケースを取り出し、全体が緩くなったら持ち上げます。
    • どちらのヒートシンクもメタル製ケースで覆われたパネルを通じて、マザーボードに繋がっています。

    • 端周辺をこじ開けて、ケースを取り出し、全体が緩くなったら持ち上げます。

  8. ヒートシンクのメインボディをマザーボードに固定している1.5mm T4トルクスネジを4本外します。 ヒートシンクのメインボディをマザーボードに固定している1.5mm T4トルクスネジを4本外します。 ヒートシンクのメインボディをマザーボードに固定している1.5mm T4トルクスネジを4本外します。
    • ヒートシンクのメインボディをマザーボードに固定している1.5mm T4トルクスネジを4本外します。

    I have to use T5 for this one.

    boeonoz - 返信

    can confirm these were T5 for me as well.

    chrisrjones1983 - 返信

  9. デバイスの下側付近のコッパープレートを固定している1.5mm T3トルクスネジを1本外します。 デバイスの下側付近のコッパープレートを固定している1.5mm T3トルクスネジを1本外します。
    • デバイスの下側付近のコッパープレートを固定している1.5mm T3トルクスネジを1本外します。

    There is another screw immediately east of where the heatsink meets the copper plate that needs to be removed as well

    Jason Stewart - 返信

  10. ヒートシンクのチューブをデバイスのフレームに固定している1.5mm  T4トルクスネジを1本外します。 3.0mm T4トルクスネジを外します。
    • ヒートシンクのチューブをデバイスのフレームに固定している1.5mm T4トルクスネジを1本外します。

    • 3.0mm T4トルクスネジを外します。

    These screws were in a different area on my Surface, Pro 4 bought at release. The fan was visible and attached to the heat sink. Remove the two torx screws on the fan housing. No need to remove the Philips head screws that secure the fan.

    mike_mcquillan - 返信

    My Surface Pro 4 has a fan here. Remove the screws around the fan and the whole heatsink including the fan can now be lifted off. DO NOT try and remove the heatsink from the fan as it is glued on.

    Andy - 返信

    Sorry I’m super brand new to the game. I don’t know the difference between 1.5mm Torx T4 and 3.0mm Torx T4. I look under tools I need to buy, and the tool kits only say Torx T4 or T5, without the milimeters dimensions.

    MInh Le Nguyen - 返信

    Je fais écho au commentaire de vennic, les longueurs indiqués en mm sont les longueurs des vis et n’impactent pas les tournevis à utiliser. Bien ranger les vis par longueur permets de mettre les bonnes vis aux bons endroits lors du remontage de l’appareil.

    Cajuteq -

    MInh Le Nguyen, the mm size refers to the length of the screws, not the size of the bit driver

    vennic - 返信

    Don’t forget to unplug the fan (if present) before yanking on the heat sink! It’s just a small grey clasp that needs to be lifted up.

    vennic - 返信

    The fan connector on mine was held in place by a white clamp on the side closest to the middle of the chassis. The long edge toward the middle flips up to vertical. That frees up the fan connector. Likewise for the black “wire” connector right beside it.

    David Hill - 返信

  11. これで両手でヒートシンク全体を持ち上げて取り出せます。 ヒートシンクを装着する際は、放熱グリスを交換してください。 ヒートシンクを装着する際は、放熱グリスを交換してください。
    • これで両手でヒートシンク全体を持ち上げて取り出せます。

    • ヒートシンクを装着する際は、放熱グリスを交換してください。

  12. マザーボードから黒いワイヤーを切断してください。
    • マザーボードから黒いワイヤーを切断してください。

    On mine, the black wire plugs into a connector with a locking mechanism controlled by a white strip on the side closest to the middle of the chasis. Flip the white section up to release before pulling on the “wire” (ribbon cable). Flip down to lock.

    David Hill - 返信

  13. マザーボードを固定している1.5mm トルクスT3ネジを5本外します。
    • マザーボードを固定している1.5mm トルクスT3ネジを5本外します。

    • マザーボードを固定している、2.0 mmのトルクスT4ネジを1本外します。

    The orange cycle t4 2,0 mm screw was actually a t3 1.5 mm screw on my surface pro 4. Just noting this here so others are not confused about that.

    Bob Bobsens - 返信

  14. マザーボードの左下隅にあるメタルケースをプラスチックの工具を使って外します。
    • マザーボードの左下隅にあるメタルケースをプラスチックの工具を使って外します。

    This step is unnecessary as the metal cover was already removed to detach the screen.

    Andy - 返信

  15. 残りのネジを外します。
    • 残りのネジを外します。

    • 2.0 mmのトルクスT4ネジ

    You have to remove camera connectors and speakers to remove motherboard. The battery connector is kept in place by adhesive.

    Matthew - 返信

  16. バッテリーは強力な粘着テープでデバイスに貼り付けられています。プラスチックの工具を使ってバッテリーの底面を引きはがしてください。 バッテリーを持ち上げ、デバイスの底面から外してください。
    • バッテリーは強力な粘着テープでデバイスに貼り付けられています。プラスチックの工具を使ってバッテリーの底面を引きはがしてください。

    • バッテリーを持ち上げ、デバイスの底面から外してください。

    • この作業では金属の工具は使わないでください。もし、バッテリーに穴を開けてしまうと、バッテリーから有害物質が漏れてしまいます。

    My battery was expanding (Screen was lifting on left hand side) and that made this step the hardest part of the whole process. It was like there was gas between the foil and the battery inside, so it would pull away when trying to lift. You can use the iOpener and place under the section of the battery you are working on, that helped loosen it for me.

    mike_mcquillan - 返信

    If this is like the iPhone batteries, then get a piece of dental floss. Double it up to strengthen it and then loop behind the battery. Use a sawing action to cut through the glue.

    Anthony shackman - 返信

    what do you use to re attach it?

    Adam - 返信

    I left the old adhesive pads on and reassembled the heat sink, then plugged in the charger and gave the cpu a good hot supper. That seemed to do the trick.

    vennic -

    Be careful as you get near to the end of this. I was pulling it away and the last section came away suddenly, snapping the connection to the body. Read the comments after the next step BEFORE you begin it. The battery is attached to the case in different ways which can complicate things. It also seems to be advisable to isolate the battery from the motherboard using a piece of paper or equiv. before removing.

    David Hill - 返信

  17. ケーブルをマザーボードの下から引き出す前に、ショートを防ぐために、バッテリーコネクタとマザーボードの間に段ボールもしくは紙やプラスチックの一片を差し込みます。 また、新しいバッテリーのケーブルを配置する際には、マザーボードがショートしないように注意してください。 マザーボードの下からバッテリーを取り外してください。デバイスから外してください。
    • ケーブルをマザーボードの下から引き出す前に、ショートを防ぐために、バッテリーコネクタとマザーボードの間に段ボールもしくは紙やプラスチックの一片を差し込みます。

    • また、新しいバッテリーのケーブルを配置する際には、マザーボードがショートしないように注意してください。

    • マザーボードの下からバッテリーを取り外してください。デバイスから外してください。

    Vor dem Entfernen des Akkus die Kontakte zwischen Akku und Mainboard isolieren. Dies kann mit einem Papierstreifen gemacht werden.

    Lex Anderson - 返信

    The battery strip is glued down. I flipped the battery over, held the case up on it’s top side. Then while holding the motherboard up I worked a plastic tool up under the connector prying it up until it released. Not easy!

    mcdusty61 - 返信

    I have put it all back together and its not charging it shows the battery is there but not changing from 0% anyideas?

    Jamie - 返信

    The same problem here! Did you resolve?

    artskuz -

    Maybe a bad charger diode. Check out this article: https://www.aonemobiles.com.au/2020/03/m...

    vennic -

    These guys failed to mention that you need to put a piece of paper between the motherboard and where the battery plugs so that you don’t short circuit and mess the machine up. Of course, I did not do this and now it won’t power on. I obviously shorted the thing out. Useless instructions.

    Pebble Beach - 返信

    Just successfully completed this replacement, this step is missing some critical details that could apparently do your device harm, or at the least cause unnecessary headaches. Thanks to those that posted their experiences, you saved me from utter ruin.

    1. Apparently the battery can short to the motherboard during removal, as some have mentioned.. A piece of card stock worked well, as it has more stiffness than “regular” paper. Make it as least as wide as the battery contact tab. I did this when installing as well.

    2. Releasing the battery from the adhesive was a HUGE pain. Some tips to make it easier: floss, heat and leverage. A very long doubled up piece of dental floss actually helped a lot. Pro Glide brand would be best I think (seriously). Continued in next comment…..

    vennic - 返信

    2……Continued from previous comment

    Once I fished the floss under the battery, I wrapped each end around the handle of my small screwdrivers to save my fingers, leaving the strand long enough to pull on the outer shell for leverage. I applied heat underneath with a heat pack, heated until it was just a bit uncomfortable to hold. Unfold the kickstand first. I worked a thick pick and plastic spudger under the edge and let them sit there for leverage while working the floss back and forth in a sawing motion. I had to replace the floss a couple of times.

    3. Once the battery was loose, I checked to make sure the paper strip I had placed was still in place, then set the tablet up on its top edge, letting the battery fold over and rest on edge on the table. There is a square adhesive patch on the backside of the battery contact strip that sticks it to the rear shell of the device. This must be removed. Continued in next comment…..

    vennic - 返信

    3. ……..Continued from previous comment

    At this point it may be helpful to wedge a thick pick or spudger under the left lower edge of the motherboard for better clearance. Using a thin guitar pick, I slowly worked at the adhesive patch under the contacts. There is also a plastic pin sticking off the rear shell that goes through a hole in the far end of the contact strip for alignment. This served as a nice backstop for the pick, so don’t be too concerned about pushing too far. You can see where this hole is placed on the replacement battery. I accidentally ripped through this hole when removing my battery and it I did not offer much resistance, but I don’t recommend this. If you break the plastic pin instead, good luck aligning the new battery.

    Continued in next comment……

    vennic - 返信

    ……Continued from previous comment

    4. Battery removed, I then replaced the paper strip to isolate the new battery contacts, just far enough to catch the plastic pin. I struggled here, but in retrospect I think I would have laid the tablet back down at this point and slid the contact strip over a thick pick to lift it properly in order to hook the hole on the alignment pin. I left the nonstick backing film on the adhesive patch that seats the contact strip to the shell, and here I got kind of lucky, as during the struggle it just kind of came off at the right time. However, I think after aligning the contacts, you could probably lift the battery and coax the nonstick film off the adhesive with a thin pick or a PLASTIC tweezers.

    Ahhh, catharsis. Hopefully this will help some of you. Big thanks again to those who took the time to comment and warn me of some big mistakes. This is my tribute to you.

    vennic - 返信

    Vennic’s comments were very helpful in guiding my own attempt.

    However, after reading the many posts on the internuts of shorted mainboards and other accidents while using the method described here to remove the battery, I decided to just remove the entire mainboard. This just required

    1) 10 more minutes; and

    2) the removal of a few more screws (holding the motherboard, right speaker, power connector and card reader), flex cables and components (only the right speaker actually needed to be removed - the power connector and card reader can stay attached to the mainboard)

    And voila! I could leisurely remove the old battery and adjust the new battery’s position. This turned out to be valuable, because my new battery’s top alignment hole was a little too close to the next 2 and so needed some flexing and adjustment of the contact. I can’t imagine if I had to do this while trying to keep the motherboard clear and work with the narrow gap underneath.

    Continued in next comment…

    denniskhong - 返信

    … continued from previous comment

    But the motherboard goes in (and came out) of the case at an angle, so to prevent shorting accidents I did have a strip of cardboard covering the battery contacts until the motherboard was properly seated. Then I slowly withdrew the cardboard and re-installed/tightened all the motherboard screws.

    denniskhong - 返信

    I should add that the one tool that helped me the most here - but is not mentioned in this guide - is an iSesamo! Or any similar, thin spring-steel product. It’s thin enough to be slipped under the screen after heating the adhesive, and thin and hard enough to simulate a blade (albeit a dull one). So with a little sawing motion (like using a craft knife) I was able to cut through the softened adhesive and work my way around the sides.

    denniskhong - 返信

    As for softening adhesives… I didn’t have an iOpener nor a heat gun, while a hair dryer was taking way too long (plus, like a heat gun, there was no telling how hot I might accidentally heat the tablet up to). So I decided to use a steam iron (you know, the one for ironing clothes). Although that may horrify many techies, hear me out. As I said, I had none of the commonly-used tools. Meanwhile, the steam iron has a very important benefit: the temperature of steam is self-limited to 100 deg C, which means there’s absolutely no way I’d accidentally overheat the tablet/work area.

    continued in next post…

    denniskhong - 返信

    …continued from previous post

    To be sure, these conditions must be fulfilled for this to work safely:-

    1) the tablet must be switched off (duh!)

    2) ensure battery has been run down to flat (set the power options in Windows to do nothing when battery level is critical, then leave the tablet running until it shuts down by itself)

    3) the steam iron should have a steam jet function (which delivers a more focused jet of steam instead of generally emitting steam all over the plate as steam irons normally do

    4) do NOT allow the iron hotplate to contact the screen or tablet - only the steam!

    Engage the steam jet and heat up one section (about half a side) of the tablet frame, then stick an iSesamo in and slice. Repeat.

    I had a cracked screen so I thought I had little to lose. As it turned out, the tablet worked after replacing the battery and even the screen was still functioning (except for the cracks of course).

    denniskhong - 返信

終わりに

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StacyAnn Brown

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thanks for this, use my surface pro 4 all the time, batteries are a disposable item and really need to be user replaceable

(if a company doesn't have a battery replacement service as good as apple's that is)

Bit of hassle but glad it can be done, zero idea where to get a replacement battery from though )-:

Adrian - 返信

found ! selling on ebay, look totally genuine too

Adrian - 返信

excellent presentation. I’d never try it myself. But I came here with what appears to be a battery problem. If you accept it as a bit offtopic: my battery icon reads 100%. when I am connected to my adaptor. When I remove the aadaptor plug, the screen goes to only a faint outline…to faint to read what % the battery is reading at. Any thoughts? I’m in a rural area of South West Thailand. So, v difficult to get to a reliable repair shop. Thanks !

paddy - 返信

This is probably too late for you now, you’ve probably solved this. But for anyone else experiencing this issue, it COULD be the power options. Windows automatically changes the screen brightness when you unplug, you could’ve accidentally set it right down. Go to Control Panel (Small Icons view) > Power Options. There should be options in there for what to do when removing the power adapter. Sorry I can’t be more specific, I’m on a desktop so it doesn’t have the right options to explain it fully.

dave.robilliard -

Thanks for the tutorial. Managed to break a display cable anyway T_T. Just broke itself… The rest was almost a piece of cake.

Seriously WHY so much shields on the motherboard, its insane… As a Mac Technician for almost two decades never saw such a mess (well except the powerbook 12” maybe).

That being said, I love my Surface !

huexley Yannick - 返信

I believe it is shielding EMF/EMI from the LCD, since everything is mounted right behind the LCDin extremely close proximity, electromagnetic interference can distort the picture, at least that’s the theory. On a Mac or traditional laptop, the LCD is well away from the current carrying portions of the laptop

Glen D -

Anyone knows if the Surface Pro is able to run without battery? Connected to power supply of cause.

Søren B - 返信

I was not able to run it with the dead battery, even plugged in. It would start to boot, but once the OS kicked in with all the graphics, it would die. I managed to get Ubuntu Linux to work on it a little better, but I would not suggest it. It did not work well enough to use, and Ubuntu didn’t have drivers to run the pen or touch screen very well. Ultimately, replacing the battery worked, and I am now enjoying my Surface Pro 4 again!

Ray Sewell -

I have two under my belt now.

First was a broken screen, very difficult getting the screen off without leaving shards of glass attached to the adhesive. Replaced all adhesive with new.

Second was a battery that was expanding lifting the left side of the screen. Since the left side was lifted this made getting it started for easier. Screen came off intact. The speaker wire (Red/Black) is very fragile, I pulled the pins out of the holder when trying to remove. I was able to put them back. I would avoid it if you can as you only have to lift the mother board high enough to get the battery out and back in. There is enough slack, so I would recommend only removing if absolutely necessary. Followed tip to remove and replace thermal paste (Cleaner and paste (~$15). Had to replace the adhesive under the batter, just ran several stripes of the 2mm adhesive that I used for the display.

This site was a great guide.

mike_mcquillan - 返信

Thank you for this teardown and instructions! I just finished repairing my Surface Pro 4 after it sat for a year as a brick when the battery died. (I couldn’t get it to reliably boot up - and stay up - with a bad battery, even when it was plugged in.) I purchased all of the suggested equipment but ended up having to use a razor to shave off some of the aluminum case - near the indentation where the speakers are - in order to get the opening pick under the screen. The pictures were very helpful. Mine had a fan attached to the heat sink on the left side of the device, which meant there were a couple more screws to remove, but otherwise, the teardown was spot on.

Ray Sewell - 返信

Hi friend

Where I can get original battery for my Surface Pro 4?

Please give me link

Many thanks

Andread - 返信

Which part of the screen is the actual touch screen connection? I just did all of this and my touch is off a bit. I touch one place and it moves one other place. The pen isn’t accurate anymore either. My guess is it’s that housed connection on the back of the screen itself? I can take this thing apart again and just try it; just wanted to see if anyone had the exact connections..

Thanks

Ward Anderson - 返信

Kinda strange that they take the hear directly to the battery…. I might be paranoid but it smells a little fishy to me!

Also they should make battery replacements way easier! Surface pros are almost a disposable tablet. I didn’t buy one purely cause of this, but I love them so much!

Chloe Mcholoe - 返信

Super !!! Vielen Dank für die Anleitung. Ich habe mir zwar ein wenig mehr Zeit gelassen aber alles funktioniert ;-) der neue Akku läd wieder und mein Surface Pro 4 läuft wieder. Danke noch mal. Achso und es gab noch gleich eine größere SSD =)

Viele Grüße,

Michael

Michael Krömer - 返信

my pro 4 is not working with the replaced battery, only works when plugged in. please what can i do?

Samuel David - 返信

It was challenging for me to get the contacts in the right place. Aside from that, could be a bad diode. https://www.aonemobiles.com.au/2020/03/m...

vennic -

same here, changed the swollen battery, surface boots only with adapter and windows reports 100% full battery. Is there a calibration tool or something?

philipploeffler - 返信

Sounds like a bad voltage diode. I had similar problem replacing battery, screen and diode on mine.

Alfredo -

hallo, kann man das Sur face auch zur Reparatur schicken?

Johannes Baumgartner - 返信

I change the battery on mine (twice !!!) and it doesn’t charge the new battery.

However, the old battery is charged when plugged in.

If anyone has any info..

Thanks

WhuzDaMan - 返信

I seem to be having a similar issue. I have yet to find out what is wrong. If you ever find out what is wrong let me know; I have heard it could be a blown resistor but have yet to find one that does not give a voltage readout.

Logan Rocha -

Thanks for tutorial, but I wonder that if I remove battery and only use power adaptor ( while wait a new battery ) , I can use it as a pc ?

Tai Le - 返信

Be careful around the antenna when removing the display. I sheared the antenna sticker in half and needed to wait 30 days for a new antenna (25$).

Otherwise, the repair was very doable once the screen is off. The recommended adhesive (tesa), does make the display sit lower than original, giving the border a slight sharp edge all around. I would recommend a slightly thicker adhesive for reassembly.

Henri - 返信

Hallo,

kann man das Surface auch ohne Akku, nur mit dem Netzteil, betreiben ?

Achim Dresser - 返信

I have purchased and successfully follow the guide to replace my battery. But it seems that i am not able to restore charge amount of time when at 100% it’s only report 1 hour and a half approx.. when on the new battery. Is there any tool or calibration to restore this new battery that I purchased from ifixt to full capacity?.

It look the new battery is original here is what it shows using battery only power:

Description Value

Battery Name X910527

Manufacture Name SMP

Power State Discharging

Current Capacity (in %) 80.4%

Current Capacity Value 26,092 mWh

Full Charged Capacity 32,445 mWh

Designed Capacity 38,152 mWh

Battery Health 85.0%

Voltage 7,896 millivolts

Charge/Discharge Rate -6,480 milliwatts

Chemistry Lithium Ion

Low Battery Capacity (1) 983 mWh

Low Battery Capacity (2) 3,244 mWh

Number of charge/discharge cycles 229

Remaining battery time for the current activity (Estimated) 03:37:46

Full battery time for the current activity (Estimated) 04:30:48

Remaining time for charging the battery (Estimated)

lagarescarlos - 返信

Thanks for this information and useful comments.

I need to add that my Pro4’s heat tube has a cooling fan , so I needed to disconnect the fan cable connector by the power switch connector.

Mikio Kuge - 返信

ahhhh This has been a nightmare trying to perform. The shields are such a pain in the ass!

Matt Faherty - 返信

CAUTION! I completed this process to replace the battery on mine, and there is one IMPORTANT step that should be on this guide. Before removing the battery, a plastic card should be inserted between the battery contacts and the underside of the mainboard to isolate the battery from the contacts on the underside of the mainboard. When I was working the adhesive on the battery contacts from the chassis, the connections crossed and shorted something and burned out the IT8528VG chip. I contacted a repair shop regarding replacement of this part and they said it requires a hot air station to remove and micro soldering to replace. They said they see this common error when repairing. Now my Surface is a paperweight. Please add this crucial step to these instructions.

It is very frustrating to have performed this long, difficult process perfectly, with an intact Surface screen at the end, only to have irreparably destroyed it because of one important missing step.

Kyle Wagner - 返信

This can happen because of a blown battery.

Iam still searching why my pro4 isn't running from the battery only with the power connector.

philip oeh -

Appreciate the guide, this was an absolute pain to replace and I do NOT care for removing a battery as easy to damage as these when they’re mounted with such an obscene amount of adhesive. This guide allowed me to do so regardless, thanks.

SparkWorx - 返信

READ ALL STEPS AND COMMENTS FIRST BEFORE STARTING!!!

My surface would not charge the battery and would go dead if unplugged, then would go dead on reboot unless given a hard restart. New battery fixed the issue.

Step 18 is incomplete without reading the comments first, you could apparently brick your device if you don’t remove the old battery using a step that is not included in the guide. Also the guide gives NO guidance on detaching the battery contact strip from the shell, or how to properly install the new battery, which is odd, considering the title of the article. I (and others) wrote some comments on step 18 that should be helpful. The rest of the guide was great, but as is, incomplete.

vennic - 返信

I recently attempted this repair but with a new battery installed the device now won’t power on. The old battery was severely swollen and despite being as careful as possible I tore the outer foil wrapper and even tore the connector on the battery during removal (the battery did not smoke or seem that it had shorted). Regardless, it’s pretty clear that the device is shorted and is now bricked, right? Is there any remedy or is the motherboard “fried”?

I wish I would have seen the comments on step 18 about putting an insulator (paper) between the old battery and motherboard when removing. This may have saved my device.

Tabaplar - 返信

Just finished replacing the antenna and the battery on Surface Pro4. I highly recommend ignoring the steps to remove the battery without removing the motherboard (mb). Removing the mb is less difficult than trying to get the battery ribbon in and out. As many have learned, you can brick your mb, and, like me not get it aligned properly causing “no battery detected”. After removing the mb, I was able to realign the battery ribbon properly and all worked great. This video is great at removing the mb. Don’t worry about removing the buttons, left speaker, or SSD (they won’t interfere).

Youtube video number: n74Pc_luSGI (How to Take Apart the Microsoft Surface Pro 4)

Once mb is removed, remove the battery, and install the new battery, insuring the battery ribbon is on the plastic locator pin (not in instructions), place adhesive under ribbon to hold in proper place for contacts on the mb.

I purchased these and both work great:

Battery (Amazon ASIN): B08595GYBN

Antenna (Amazon ASIN): B08PV8SZ3R

bncote - 返信

Please add a disclaimer about how to AVOID shorting out the motherboard!!!

Ryan Sicard - 返信

This is some kind of sick joke, right? I just got through this and took out my battery. I do not know how the heck I’m going to get this thing back together.

What’s this paste where the old battery terminal connection was and how the heck am I supposed to get the new battery into place

Nicholas Redding - 返信

Did anyone have to use an adhesive to reseat the screen or did you just reheat the original adhesive?

Scott Evans - 返信

You need new adhesive

philip oeh -

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