はじめに
Restore balanced sound to your laptop by replacing the left speaker.
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With the case closed, place the Unibody top-side down on a flat surface.
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Depress the grooved side of the access door release latch enough to grab the free end. Lift the release latch until it is vertical.
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Grab the white plastic tab and pull the battery up and out of the Unibody.
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Remove the following eight screws securing the lower case to the chassis:
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One 3 mm Phillips screw.
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Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.
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Four 3.5 mm Phillips screws.
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Make sure you have a good quality Phillips screwdriver. Mine had removable tips and had a small play at the connection. As a result I didn't have a good feel and damaged my screws (those securing the fan and the top left in step 23). Game over for me installing new thermal paste...
Be very carefull with your screws! Especially those on the inside.
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Use a spudger to pry the fan connector straight up off the logic board.
Solder back to the mother board!
Me too!!! WHAT NOW?
solder back to the mother board
It helped me a lot to look at the closeup pictures of the fan connector socket on the motherboard and the fan connector itself. Then I could figure out where to apply the axial rotating pressure with the plastic "spudger" (a trimmed old credit card). Needed more force to remove the 7-year old connection than I felt comfortable with. The pic's helped with the leverage point to use - just past and under the fan wires BUT not on the board itself.
Excellent guide! Moved fan from MB to MBP and installed new fan in old MB.
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Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
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Two 5 mm Phillips screws.
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One 7 mm Phillips screw.
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Screws were locktited and I have stripped head of right one while trying to remove it…
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Lift the fan out of the upper case.
One of the screw was messed up. How can I remove it ?
sebmeunier - 返信
Two of my screws did not want to come out when I used Philips #00 and it damaged the screw so now I don't know if I will manage to get it out. What can I do?
Don't know about ruined screw head removal, but for future reference: Place the tool lightly on screw head & rotate axially 'til the tool drops into the screw head for a comfortable, firm fit, before applying pressure & torque for screw removal. If the tool does not drop in the screw head for the comfortable, snug fit, you may have the wrong tool or the wrong size. Try a different size 'til U get the right fit before applying pressure & torque to remove the screw. It can save you grief from a ruined screw head.
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Each connector is different, so the following steps will show you how disconnect each in detail.
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Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the keyboard ribbon cable retaining flap.
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Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket.
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If the smaller connector at the right side of the keyboard ribbon cable is populated by another small black ribbon cable, remove it in a similar way to the above.
Trying to get this back in can be really difficult. But it works, just try and try again very patiently. After putting down the retaining flap again, pull a little bit to make sure the ribbon cable is all the way in and fixed.
My late 2008 Macbook 5,1 2.4GHz also had the tiny ribbon plug besides the keyboard ribbon plug polpulated as well (keyboard backlight?) - I missed it blindly following the guide but it made its presence clear when I lifted up the PCB - lucky I was not moving hastily severing the tiny ribbon!
So I added a comment at step 15 as in the guide this tiny plug is clearly not populated in contrast to my Macbook.
Kudos to the author - this guide clearly helped me a lot saving me a lot of time and head scratching.
By the way, minimal thermal paste was found on both CPU and GPU (the original reason I dissasembled my old Macbook) and after I put enough of this thermal transfering stuff on them the Macbook started working much-much cooler after years of hot operation that I thought were due to heavier OSX versions - should have done it 4-5 years ago!
What temp was your Macbook's CPU running at? I have cleaned out exhaust radiator thing, would it be worth redoing my thermal paste as well?
Jake -
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the subwoofer cable connector straight up off the logic board.
This will easily break, resulting in snapped pins. Will cause right speaker to not function if you don't solder them back on. I don't know how to prevent this from happening, I did just as described in step #21. I even went in from the side as shown in the photo, but probably should have gone in from opposite (RH side in photo) as that's where the pins are.
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Remove the following two screws securing the display data cable bracket to the upper case:
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One 7mm Phillips screw.
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One 5mm Phillips screw.
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Remove the two 7 mm Phillips screws from the DC-in board.
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Lift the display data cable bracket out of the upper case.
This step appears to be redundant, but is actually necessary to enable removal of the microphone (later, in step 26).
This step should be clarified, because it otherwise seems un-necessary. Moving step 26 to be after this step would fix the continuity problem.
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Remove the two 5mm Phillips screws securing the keyboard flex bracket to the upper case.
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Lift the keyboard flex bracket out of the upper case.
Definitly!! Step 15 is basicially impossible with Step 25 and Step 7 (if you have to reseat the keyboard ribbon cable like I did [Step 15]) in place. Mine presented as dead, thankfully the battery indicator and magsafe worked. But when I reseated the keyboard cable (Step 15) I wasn't convinced so when the power butten did nothing I took a deep breath and went back in. And success was had on the second attempt (psew!).
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Remove the following five screws securing the logic board to the upper case:
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Four 3mm Phillips screws.
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One 3.5mm Phillips screw.
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Lift the logic board from its left edge and pull it out of the upper case.
When re-assembling everything, before performing step 27, it is very useful to perform part of step 23 *first*. Specifically:
- carefully replace the small DC-in boardand secure with the two 7 mm Phillips screws (step 23 yellow)
The small DC-in board is *much* easier to set in place and screw in if you do it before screwing the logic board back in place.
Thanks for the headups! Binya Binya Pollywog! BaBahLouuu BabaLou!!
14vs35 -
Pay particular attention to the routing of the wires from the DC input board to the logic board relative to the wiring for the microphone and the post that supports the right-hand side of the display data cable bracket; route them improperly and you won't be able to get the data cable bracket back into place. Unfortunately the photos don't capture this detail. I also found it easier to position the microphone before fully inserting the logic board, otherwise the leads wanted to torque it about 80 degrees to the plane of the case and no amount of prodding with a spudger could coax it into position.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up off the logic board.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
6 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
This is not a a1278 unibody MacBook Pro. A1278 MacBooks backs are one solid metal piece not two separate pieces. This guide is for a different MacBook Pro.
Brad Burgeson - 返信