はじめに
MacBook Unibodyのバッテリーを交換するのは、容易な作業です。
必要な工具と部品
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ケースを閉じたまま、Unibodyを裏返しにして水平に置きます。
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アクセスドアのリリース用ラッチの溝側を押し込んで、出てきた先端をつかみます。 リリース用ラッチが垂直になるまで持ち上げます。
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デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。
デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。
93 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
15 件のコメント
The battery in my Unibody Macbook won't come out. I've tried everything. While it does move from side to side a little bit I am completely unable to remove it.
This is not an A1278 MacBook. I have one Infront of me and it uses a different battery and is attached entirely with screws not some access door.
This is not the unibody A1278 model, that battery is internal and the back cover has to come off.
I agree. Working on mine now. It’s quite different than this example. I hope examples of other repairs are more precise. I have at least the fan and heat sink left to do. Maybe more if it continues to overheat.
This is exactly like my A1278 Macbook unibody and the replacement process was exactly like this. Took one minute. Thanks!!
My used A1278 MacBook has a LIKK mfr battery that says:
"Replace 13" New Aluminum Unibody MacBook Model A 1 2 8 0 Li-ion, 10.8V $@Wh rechargeable" printed on the battery.
The battery never held a charge, even though it says condition "normal" on both System Profiler and coconut Battery app and has but 141 cycles to date.
It comes off full charge showing say 2:38 hrs of battery life, which is bad enough, but is down to 1:35 in about 20 minutes, I've never let it go to see how long it will last, i just carry the charger around to use it plugged in
Is this battery compatible with my MacBook A1278 or do I have the wrong battery installed?
I installed the battery and I didn't work instead I've had it overheat and charge to full and then die within minutes. I'm disappointed. Is there something I missed because I followed the instructions and bought the correct battery. I'd like to know because I have bought parts for my laptop before from this site and followed the instructions and the results were great.
I install the new battery and after 6 cycles the capacity decrease to 66% I don't understand why could you help me ?
Hello Didier, please turn directly to eustore@ifixit.com, they'll be happy to help!
I replaced this with a 3rd party battery and the OS says “replace now” despite Coconut Battery showing a more-than-great capacity. Is this just an issue of the OS not recognizing a 3rd party part and seeing it as broken? Because Coconut Battery does say the battery status is “poor” despite it being brand new
Try cycling the battery a few times this might fix the issue.
If this doesn't help either ask for a replacement/refund from the seller or just use it as is.
If you keep using it you should do some benchmarks (Geekbench etc.) Because the CPU might be throttled. Some MacBook do that when the battery is defective/not installed.
My A1278 does not have a battery access door. You need to update/correct or indicate that alternative back is on A1278. I had to remove entire back cover and use trilobe screwdriver to release the battery.
This in fact is the correct guide for the MacBook (13-inch, Aluminum, Late 2008) which is the Model A1278.
If your A1278 does not have the split back panel it is not the Late 2008 MacBook but rather a Mid 2009-2012 MacBook Pro wich has the same Model number but does not have the split back panel.
this is it for my macBook late 2008 y saw a lot of whit connector,but this the best one thank very much!!!
This is not a a1278 unibody MacBook Pro. A1278 MacBooks backs are one solid metal piece not two separate pieces. This guide is for a different MacBook Pro.
Brad Burgeson - 返信
This guide isn’t for a pro; it’s a MacBook unibody.
Nicholas -
So, it turns out that Apple used the model code A1278 for quite a few different Mac models, including both Pro and non-Pro versions! This guide is for the non-Pro Macbooks. There’s also one for the Pro models with the same A1278 identifier.
tempelmann - 返信