はじめに
AirPortカードを交換するには、このガイドを参照してください。
必要な工具と部品
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ケースを閉じたまま、Unibodyを裏返しにして水平に置きます。
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アクセスドアのリリース用ラッチの溝側を押し込んで、出てきた先端をつかみます。 リリース用ラッチが垂直になるまで持ち上げます。
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下部ケースをシャーシに固定している次の8本のネジを外します:
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3mmプラスネジ 1本
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13.5mmプラスネジ 3本
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3.5mmプラスネジ 4本
Make sure you have a good quality Phillips screwdriver. Mine had removable tips and had a small play at the connection. As a result I didn't have a good feel and damaged my screws (those securing the fan and the top left in step 23). Game over for me installing new thermal paste...
Be very carefull with your screws! Especially those on the inside.
You can get away with a Phillips #00 for many of the screws involved but the 4 at the bottom case split are likely to strip if you don’t use a JIS #00 or, in a pinch, a Phillips #000.
I used the Phillips #00 tip from my Pro Tech Toolkit, and it worked well enough. But yes, maybe #000 might have been better on the lower row of screws. Note to myself: Always read the comments first.
When replacing these screws, the order to replace them in is as follows:
1, Top left
2. Top right
3. Top center-left
4. Top center-right
5. Bottom center-right
6. Bottom center-left
7. Bottom right
8. Bottom left
I hope this information is helpful.
I followed my usual process of putting in all the screws loosely, then tightening them gradually in distributed pattern, to help ensure that the panel settles in place evenly. But maybe some orders are better.
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両手を使って、上部ケースから下部ケースを持ち上げて外します。
Thanks for the guide!
It's implicit in the two photos, but worth mentioning because it blocked my progress in this step for a bit: You have to put the release latch back into its horizontal, closed position before you can lift off the lower-case panel.
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カメラケーブルのソケットからケーブル オスをまっすぐ引き抜いて、カメラケーブルの接続を外します。
Be EXTREMELY careful when removing and re-inserting the 'camera' cable. The contacts can be easily bent beyond repair if you try to force it back in. Damaging this cable at this connection or near the display may disable your ability to use your iSight camera, AND both your Bluetooth and WiFi. I had to pay apple $300 to replace the entire display assembly because one prong was faulty, causing my WiFi card to not be recognized.
seanheff17 - 返信
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光学ドライブの溝からカメラデータケーブルを巻き戻して外します。
Although I ordered the screen for an A1278 MacBook Unibody Aluminum, the screen glass was marked as a MacBook Pro. The iSight/WiFi /BT cable was about an inch longer than the Macbook one and took a bit of creative re-routing, but everything works fine.
has it got the airport and bluetooth modules built in separately in the display assembly as in the macbook late 2008 and mbp mid 2009?
fericcio -
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カメラのデーターケーブルと右側スピーカーを上部ケースに固定している次のネジを外します。
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9.9 mm 一部分がネジ状のプラスネジ
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9.6 mm ネジ状のプラスネジ
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4 mm プラスネジ−1本
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カメラケーブルのブラケットをサブウーファーの下からスライドして取り出し、デバイスから外します。
My model has different bracket, you need to remove the subwoofer first
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ディスプレイデーターケーブルのロックに固定されたプラスチックのプルタブを摘んで、デバイス本体のDC-in側に向けて回転させます。
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ディスプレイデータケーブルのコネクタをソケットからまっすぐ引き抜きます。
i can't understand what I need to do in this step, I'm afraid with this step, i think i can "hurt" my mac and i don't want to do that, anyone knows what i need to do?
Thanks
There is a steel 'latch' that flips over from the left side of the connector, to the right side. After you flip this latch over, the cable will easily slide out.
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ディスプレイデータケーブルブラケットから次の2本のネジを外します:
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7mmプラスネジ 1本
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5mmプラスネジ 1本
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上部ケースからディスプレイデータケーブルブラケットを持ち上げます。
Note for Step 10 during reassembly: Be careful when replacing the screw for the display cable bracket closest to the magnetic power cord receptacle. The interior magnet might attract the screw causing the screw to get pulled under the DC power circuit board which might then require that you disassemble things again to retrieve the screw.
wintermute - 返信
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ディスプレイと上部ケースを固定している外側6mmトルクスネジを両側で2本ずつ、計4本外します。
Hey guys, with these older models Do Not interchange different colored LVDS cables. Note the connector here is gold, do not use a silver connector on a gold one or vice versa. I fried a logic board this way on an A1278. Note that the core i7 lvds connector is different than the core i5.
I never thought that I’d be required to use PB Blaster to remove computer screws. Had to use two tiny drops for each screw, letting it soak in for 20 minutes or so. The display screws, coated with blue thread lock, did not want to budge. I was so fearful that I would strip them using a T-6 driver. Ended up using a 1/4” drive ratchet with a T-6 bit, pressing down firmly and blocking the MacBook from turning with my elbows. I’ve had a lot of experience doing this kind of work, but wow!
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画像にあるようにクラッチカバーを手に取り、ディスプレイの右側に向けてスライドします。
i've found this impossible to get back on correctly.
i cant get the plastic to slide back that 1/4" it needs to fit properly
Does anyone know any tricks? :(
I was replacing a clutch cover that had cracked into a few pieces. I found the replacement didn’t slide to the left on installation. On further investigation I found the tabs from the old one were broken off inside where the cover slides. Once they were removed the install wen much better.
I found my replacement cover on Amazon.ca in case someone needs a Canadian source.
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ディスプレイからクラッチカバーを取り出します。
The flat face goes on the bottom edge of the display. The display and wifi cables must be routed below the hinges in the display, that is, closer to the bottom edge of the display.
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ディスプレイにカメラケーブルのリテイナーを固定している3.3 mmプラスネジを1本外します。
this is on the other side, watch the glass of the display below
Thank you! I thought the photo was looking at the left hand side.
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画像のようにディスプレイの方向を変えて、黒色のプラスチックカメラケーブルのリテイナーをディスプレイの右側に向けて引っ張ります。
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カメラケーブルのリテイナーを取り出します。
In the second picture for this step the U notches on the wifi connector are facing out when in the socket, and this is quite misleading. Putting them in like this will not work and could potentially cause some serious damage to wifi card or motherboard. Be wary of this guide, and make sure you take pictures of how things are before you touch them.
Sorprende como reparar mac fácil y rápido -
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カメラケーブルのコネクタをディスプレイの右側に向けてゆっくりと引っ張り、AirPortカード上のソケットから引き抜きます。
I fried both of my Airport cards, couldn't figure out why, and came back here and read about these little U-shaped notches. I had to bring the computer into my office to compare both sides of this cable. I would be nice to make sure that this tid bit of information is very noticeable for those who are following along.
Yea, I fried two motherboards before I came back here and re-read that the U notches must face the airport card.
wcking -
A super closeup photo of these notches would very helpful.
Peter Mayo - 返信
If the note in this step can be updated to more accurately describe why the notches must be visible, that would be most helpful.
Perhaps written as per “The camera cable (ie the AirPort cable) whilst it can fit in both ways, you WILL cause damage to either the card, the motherboard or both if the orientation is not correct.
The cable MUST be installed so that the notches on one side of the cable are not visible”
Er, how sure is everyone about the directionality here? In the various images in this tutorial the connector appears with the U notches both facing and away. Perhaps the images reflect the learning process, but maybe the dot on the cable is key? One thing I can confirm is that it does matter - the cable connectivity is not symmetric.
Well, I don't yet know what damage I did to my logic board, but the instructions here are correct, at least for the system I am working with: if installed the other way around (with the U notches facing away from the connector), the system will turn on but when you try to shut it off (power button, shutdown option in OS) it will immediately turn back on. Only a long-press on the power button will shut the system down such that it stays off.
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AirPortカード横と右側クラッチの蝶番を固定している残りの3 mmプラスネジを外します。
This photo can be slightly misleading if you're not careful. It appears that unlike my cable, the pictured cable has the gray dot on both sides. In this photo you can see the 2 little sideways U notches that should be on the OTHER side. In photo 22 you can see that there are NO such notches as he is sliding the cable out of the connector.
My gray dot is only on the underside (not visible when the cable is plugged in correctly. When I first took the cable out to replace my Airport board, I thought maybe it had been inserted the wrong way which will damage the motherboard. So the gray dots are not a good indicator, just look for the sideways U notches as indicated in the iFixit directions.
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デバイスを再組立する際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組立する際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
51 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています！ あなたも貢献してみませんか？
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12 件のコメント
I went through this because after replacing the top case, upon restart the Airport card was not recognized. I was hoping the cable had come loose, as resetting PRAM and SMC didn't fix the issue (and searching the web, a LOT of people have this issue, most without having touched the internals of their Mac). That was not the case, everything appeared correct. So I got a USB wireless dongle and called it good.
maccentric - 返信
I did it! \o/
The guide was really helpful. Be careful with all the delicate connections and DO NOT attempt to use not guide-specified tools. Yeah... You heard me, buy a decent Torx tool. :)
Thank you very much for this guide. No real problem with the good tools! After restart, the wifi comes back! Yes!!! But just a little problem … the white becomes suddenly blue and impossible to change that. I open a second time to disconnect and connect the LCD wire. It seems to be ok but after mounting the screws, my blue problem comes back! Do somebody have an idea?
What is the form factor or bus of the card? Is it pci-e? Any idea?
Took less than 2 hours total. Excellent tutorial. The antenna clip is easily removed without damaging it, no need to buy one of those.
Thanks for the guide. got the air port card replaced in about an hour. was much faster and easier then expected. Now my wireless network isworking again. thanks so much!
Thanks for this very precise guide ! Even if my bluetooth was still working fine, my wifi stopped seing any network, and afterwarming a bit more, just activating the wifi crashed the MacBook (Mojave).Afet, it even failed booting 50% of the time (no startup shame). BootCamp failed seing any wifi too (Win 10). So I ordered a used replacement card on aliexpress for 15$. It was worth it!
My old original Airport card was an CE European model 607-4145-A, and the replacement one is a 607-4144-A. I guess the new card is a world model since there is no CE marking on it and because I saw more chanel on first check under System repport/WiFi before activating airport - now it dropped to the same amount of channels, I guess after localizing my Mac. The new card is much faster than the old card too, my 5Ghz wifi is now connected around 230Mbits (speed test at 200Mbits) and the old card before dying was only working at 150Mbits (speed test at 120Mbits) - maybe it was already damaged since a while.
Managed to do this on a matter of 30 minutes. Good guide, very thorough, and got my WiFi working again on my Late 2008 Unibody MacBook. Kit I used was the IFixit essential electronics toolkit
This is not a a1278 unibody MacBook Pro. A1278 MacBooks backs are one solid metal piece not two separate pieces. This guide is for a different MacBook Pro.
Brad Burgeson - 返信
This guide isn’t for a pro; it’s a MacBook unibody.
Nicholas -
So, it turns out that Apple used the model code A1278 for quite a few different Mac models, including both Pro and non-Pro versions! This guide is for the non-Pro Macbooks. There’s also one for the Pro models with the same A1278 identifier.
tempelmann - 返信