はじめに
このガイドを参照して、お持ちのMacBook Unibodyの割れたディスプレイを交換しましょう。
必要な工具と部品
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ケースを閉じたまま、Unibodyを裏返しにして水平に置きます。
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アクセスドアのリリース用ラッチの溝側を押し込んで、出てきた先端をつかみます。 リリース用ラッチが垂直になるまで持ち上げます。
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下部ケースをシャーシに固定している次の8本のネジを外します:
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3mmプラスネジ 1本
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13.5mmプラスネジ 3本
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3.5mmプラスネジ 4本
Make sure you have a good quality Phillips screwdriver. Mine had removable tips and had a small play at the connection. As a result I didn't have a good feel and damaged my screws (those securing the fan and the top left in step 23). Game over for me installing new thermal paste...
Be very carefull with your screws! Especially those on the inside.
You can get away with a Phillips #00 for many of the screws involved but the 4 at the bottom case split are likely to strip if you don’t use a JIS #00 or, in a pinch, a Phillips #000.
I used the Phillips #00 tip from my Pro Tech Toolkit, and it worked well enough. But yes, maybe #000 might have been better on the lower row of screws. Note to myself: Always read the comments first.
When replacing these screws, the order to replace them in is as follows:
1, Top left
2. Top right
3. Top center-left
4. Top center-right
5. Bottom center-right
6. Bottom center-left
7. Bottom right
8. Bottom left
I hope this information is helpful.
I followed my usual process of putting in all the screws loosely, then tightening them gradually in distributed pattern, to help ensure that the panel settles in place evenly. But maybe some orders are better.
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両手を使って、上部ケースから下部ケースを持ち上げて外します。
Thanks for the guide!
It's implicit in the two photos, but worth mentioning because it blocked my progress in this step for a bit: You have to put the release latch back into its horizontal, closed position before you can lift off the lower-case panel.
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カメラケーブルのソケットからケーブル オスをまっすぐ引き抜いて、カメラケーブルの接続を外します。
Be EXTREMELY careful when removing and re-inserting the 'camera' cable. The contacts can be easily bent beyond repair if you try to force it back in. Damaging this cable at this connection or near the display may disable your ability to use your iSight camera, AND both your Bluetooth and WiFi. I had to pay apple $300 to replace the entire display assembly because one prong was faulty, causing my WiFi card to not be recognized.
seanheff17 - 返信
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光学ドライブの溝からカメラデータケーブルを巻き戻して外します。
Although I ordered the screen for an A1278 MacBook Unibody Aluminum, the screen glass was marked as a MacBook Pro. The iSight/WiFi /BT cable was about an inch longer than the Macbook one and took a bit of creative re-routing, but everything works fine.
has it got the airport and bluetooth modules built in separately in the display assembly as in the macbook late 2008 and mbp mid 2009?
fericcio -
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カメラのデーターケーブルと右側スピーカーを上部ケースに固定している次のネジを外します。
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9.9 mm 一部分がネジ状のプラスネジ
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9.6 mm ネジ状のプラスネジ
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4 mm プラスネジ−1本
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カメラケーブルのブラケットをサブウーファーの下からスライドして取り出し、デバイスから外します。
My model has different bracket, you need to remove the subwoofer first
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ディスプレイデーターケーブルのロックに固定されたプラスチックのプルタブを摘んで、デバイス本体のDC-in側に向けて回転させます。
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ディスプレイデータケーブルのコネクタをソケットからまっすぐ引き抜きます。
i can't understand what I need to do in this step, I'm afraid with this step, i think i can "hurt" my mac and i don't want to do that, anyone knows what i need to do?
Thanks
There is a steel 'latch' that flips over from the left side of the connector, to the right side. After you flip this latch over, the cable will easily slide out.
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ディスプレイデータケーブルブラケットから次の2本のネジを外します:
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7mmプラスネジ 1本
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5mmプラスネジ 1本
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上部ケースからディスプレイデータケーブルブラケットを持ち上げます。
Note for Step 10 during reassembly: Be careful when replacing the screw for the display cable bracket closest to the magnetic power cord receptacle. The interior magnet might attract the screw causing the screw to get pulled under the DC power circuit board which might then require that you disassemble things again to retrieve the screw.
wintermute - 返信
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ディスプレイと上部ケースを固定している外側6mmトルクスネジを両側で2本ずつ、計4本外します。
Hey guys, with these older models Do Not interchange different colored LVDS cables. Note the connector here is gold, do not use a silver connector on a gold one or vice versa. I fried a logic board this way on an A1278. Note that the core i7 lvds connector is different than the core i5.
I never thought that I’d be required to use PB Blaster to remove computer screws. Had to use two tiny drops for each screw, letting it soak in for 20 minutes or so. The display screws, coated with blue thread lock, did not want to budge. I was so fearful that I would strip them using a T-6 driver. Ended up using a 1/4” drive ratchet with a T-6 bit, pressing down firmly and blocking the MacBook from turning with my elbows. I’ve had a lot of experience doing this kind of work, but wow!
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デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。
デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。
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4 件のコメント
This worked perfectly. My brother had an old MacBook laying around that he had fried when he spilled a drink on it. As a result it sat for a few years after he bought a new computer. His top case was ruined and after some pestering gave me his "broken" mac. I just finished swapping the displays, my computer was 6 years old and my display had dead pixels and a broken isight(for the last three years!) Swapping the display assembly fixed everything. Total time: 2 hrs.
NOTE: Be very careful when removing the cables, always use less force then you think you need, you should be good to go!
My display has a huge stripe down the middle that is inverse contrast. When I have the display in a certain position, like if I bend the screen ALL the way back, it'll be fine but mostly the stripe will pop back. This leads me to think the display cable is loose or not seated properly. I got to about step 9 in this guide, cleaned the connectors and re-seated but it's still there. Any ideas? I think the cable might be messed up when it goes into the black plastic hinge part. Seems pinched?
Curious if you made any progress here -- my brother has exactly the same issue. I'm planning on replacing the assembly outright, but going to open it up first just to see if I can "un-pinch" it. If it's just the cable, I was thinking of replacing it, but it looks like I'd have to take the display apart more which I'm not up to doing (heat gun etc.).
Hey, just so you guys know, reassembling the display is a little tricky. The display might not go on straight, so don't tighten down all of the screws until you are sure the display is straight. You might not even have that problem, but I did with my MacBook.
This is not a a1278 unibody MacBook Pro. A1278 MacBooks backs are one solid metal piece not two separate pieces. This guide is for a different MacBook Pro.
Brad Burgeson - 返信
This guide isn’t for a pro; it’s a MacBook unibody.
Nicholas -
So, it turns out that Apple used the model code A1278 for quite a few different Mac models, including both Pro and non-Pro versions! This guide is for the non-Pro Macbooks. There’s also one for the Pro models with the same A1278 identifier.
tempelmann - 返信