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MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換

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  1. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換, 下部ケース: 手順 1、 1の画像 1
    • 下部ケースを上部ケースに固定している次の10本のネジを外します:

    • 13.5mmプラスネジ 3本

    • 3mmプラスネジ 7本

    important to reassemble the "lower case" successfully: the threads of the seven 3mm phillips screws are drilled at an angle :-/

    mysterioes - 返信

    Same issue with me. After reassembling my 13-inch and my 17-inch, one of the screws are sticking out ever so slightly. Very annoying, especially since I scratch whatever surface I'm on now.

    Kyle Spadaro -

    Very important note; this guide is NOT correct for the Macbook Pro 17" A1297 late '11.

    The A1297 has an assembly adjacent to the optical drive, identifiable by 4 antenna connectors, 1 usb cable (with very small connector) and one PCI-e flat cable running across the optical drive.

    I did not take pictures, but found one on the web. I'm very new to iFixit and have no idea yet on how to create a guide, but here's the picture showing the assembly on top (this pic only has 3 antenna wires, the A1297 has 4, but at least you'll know what to look for.

    - carefully undo all connections and 2 screws

    - remove the assembly and flip it over

    - again carefully remove the shielding tape

    - undo 3 tiny screws

    - gently pry the airport card from the assembly (the flat cable will be a bit of a pain)

    - reverse process with replacement card.

    image can be found here:

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2446...

    Remon - 返信

    It helps if you mark the holes where the long screws go so you can easily find them when the time comes to button things up. Also, a little dish or custard cup to hold those tiny screws is essential.

    Human - 返信

    3 x 13.5 mm screws are actually TWO different types! Return to EXACT SAME HOLES.

    -I discovered this on my mid-2010, but from comments, sounds like it may affect other models as well

    2 x 13.5 mm screws are pointed ends

    1 x 13.5 mm screw is a FLAT end <- CORNER HOLE

    These areTWO slightly different lengths, and must return to correct holes. If you put the flat end screw in the wrong hole, it will stick out slightly. If you put either of the pointed screws in the wrong hole, they will go in all the way, but will not catch threads, and will simply fall out when laptop is flipped back over.

    scottbernardis - 返信

    I printed out the image above and taped each screw to the photo as I removed each one, just to make sure I put them in the right location.

    Grace Morris - 返信

    This is a brilliant suggestion! I did this for all the steps that involved removing screws, numbered the sheets, and that made it very easy to put it all back together in reverse. Thanks!

    Steve Adamczyk -

    Be sure to use Loctite on the screws when re-attaching the bottom of the computer. The screws can and will fall out once they have been removed for repairs if you do not put Loctite on them when you reuse them. Otherwise, purchase new screws before repairing the computer as the new screws come with Loctite material on them. (I have personal experience with this problem.)

    johnpartridge - 返信

    Be sure NOT to Buy this Battery from iFixit. I bought it from eustore.ifixit.com and the Condition of Battery is : Service Battery ,

    from the &&^&^$^ first day.

    Till today my battery Cycle Count is: 80.

    I’ve tried everything as: Battery Calibration, resetting the SMC, PRAM, reinstalling the battery,

    and Service Battery warning still there.

    Just DO NOT BUY crappy, trash from here.

    I have very bad experience.

    Doruntin Koci - 返信

    Hi Doruntin,

    we’re more than sorry to hear about your bad experience.

    I’ll inform our customer service team who’ll reach out to you and offer either a replacement or reimbursement.

    If ever you’d need assistance again, please feel free to directly write to eustore@ifixit.com, as comments are not regularly checked for service issues.

    I’m confident that we’ll find the solution that suits you best!

    Sandra Hiller -

    PLEASE OBSERVE: The image of the left speaker used is NOT for a 2011 model. A 17inch MacBook Pro A1297 - LEFT SPEAKER + MICROPHONE - 2011 has IDENTIFYING NUMBER: Apple Part #:922-9821, 922-9822. And its COMPATIBILITY: 17 inch MacBook Pro Unibody A1297 - Early 2011 MC725LL/A 2.2 i7 - Early 2011 MC725LL/A 2.3 i7 - Late 2011 MD311LL/A 2.4 i7 - Late 2011 MD311LL/A 2.5 i7

    kenneth krabat - 返信

  2. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 2、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 2、 2の画像 2
    • 下部ケースとベントの間に指を差し込み、下部ケースと上部ケースを固定している二つのクリップを外しながら持ち上げます。

    • 再組み立ての際には、下部ケースの位置を揃えてください。それからクリップが装着するまでしっかりと押し込みます。

    • 下部ケースを取り外します。

    I recommend using anti-static protection, i.e., wearing a ground strap, or at least touch metal chassis inside the computer before unplugging cables. Otherwise, you might create an ESD discharge into your RAM and have to replace it like I did!

    d68ef792 - 返信

  3. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換, バッテリー: 手順 3、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換, バッテリー: 手順 3、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換, バッテリー: 手順 3、 3の画像 3
    • ロジックボードの近くで作業するときは、最初にバッテリーを外してください。

    • バッテリーコネクタに取り付けられているプラスチックのタブを掴み、デバイス前端に向けて引っ張ります。 Late 2011モデルでは、バッテリコネクタにタブが付いておらず、差し込み口をマザーボードの内部に取り付けるだけです。そのため、外すにはプラグをまっすぐ持ち上げます。

    • プラスチックのタブが付いてない場合、スパッジャーを使用して、ソケットからコネクタを引き上げます。

    • ロジックボード表面に、タブを並行に引きます。

    This step is a little difficult in reverse, that is, when re-attaching the battery. It helps to tilt the laptop up so you can see the edge of the board that accepts the plug. It may look like there are two slots for it, it goes in the bigger slot that is further away from the board.

    yary hluchan - 返信

    Is this step really necessary? It is not part of the instructions how to replace the HDD in Apple's User Manual of the 2011 17" MBP.

    Tobias Hahn - 返信

    As it says in the step: "Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits." It is not required, but it is simple insurance to avoid a $1000+ repair should you accidentally short components on the board with something metal.

    Andrew Bookholt -

    There was no tab on my model. Battery is affixed to board and screws must be removed.

    bhodges2 - 返信

    Mine also, and looks as if removing connector could damage motherboard.

    Stephen -

    The battery on my 17” mid-2010 (MC024LL/A -A1297 ) is held by 3 specialty screws CR-V1 (3-wings similar to Mercedes-Benz tri-star)

    It has a tab which I pulled straight up

    The connector to the motherboard came away easily by pulling toward the front edge.

    Peter Grierson -

    * There is no tab on the A1297 (late 2011) model's battery connector. Be careful with the connector, it chips off the edges easily! Otherwise the same as bhodges2 & Stephen's notes.

    ** (Pleas also include the exact Model and Part numbers like P/N: MD311D/A; Mod.: A1297 in the comments and notes for your MBP)

    Pingumann - 返信

    Why are there no guides for the Late 2011 17" MacBook Pro A1297 (2.4GHz i7 quad core, MD311LL/A)??? I just replaced the RAM in mine and discovered that not only is there no tab on the battery connector, but the connector pulls straight up, perpendicular to the logic board, rather than parallel. I almost ripped the wires out of the connector by trying to pull it out parallel to the logic board like this guide instructed! After finally getting it out, my advice to those with the Late 2011 model is to use a spudger to loosen the edges of the connector then lift the connector straight up to get it out safely.

    Dave - 返信

    I replaced the display on my late 2011 model and noticed that it was quite different than the tutorial given here so I detailed all the differences to help others with late-2011 models on my blog: http://johnfixesstuff.blogspot.com/2014/...

    jmueller -

    I just put an SSD in a model #A1297 - MC226LL/A and the battery connector had to be removed by pulling it parallel to and away from the logic board — in other words, not up. I was definitely a bit confused when I tried to pull it up.

    Doug Hogg - 返信

    With some dexterity and carefulness, the MagSafe could be removed from its place without the need to remove the whole logic board!

    Phil Boy - 返信

    Same here, I used a head-band light to see it and got it done without removing anything but the battery connection, the charging port and the display data cable. Then I had to do it again because amazone sent me the wrong charging port, the board has different width between screw holes, and on closer look, different components soldered on, also. AND, one is labeled 2008, the other 2009… make sure you get the correct one, the other ( “wrong”? ) might work, but I’m not risking it! So why does the 2008 fit in my 17” macbook pro(5,2) mid-2009 and the one labeled 2009 does not fit ? It is what it is…

    Tom Seaman -

    The battery on my 17” mid-2010 (MC024LL/A -A1297 ) is held by 3 specialty screws CR-V1 (3-wings similar to  Mercedes-Benz tri-star)

    It has a tab which I pulled straight up

    The connector to the motherboard came away easily by pulling toward the front edge.

    Peter Grierson - 返信

  4. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換, ディスプレイ: 手順 4、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換, ディスプレイ: 手順 4、 2の画像 2
    • カメラケーブルを外す前に、ロジックボードに付いている小さなプラスチック製のリテイナーをまず、作業の邪魔にならないように動かさなければなりません。 2011年後半のモデルでは、カメラケーブルコネクタにこのリテイナーが付いていないため、この手順をスキップできます。

    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、小さなプラスチックのケーブルリテイナーをカメラケーブルのソケットから押し出して、カメラケーブルを取り出せるスペースを作ります。

    I think I should have a photo of the plastic retainer as there may be more people like me who were afraid to take the part.

    Cassio Machado - 返信

  5. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 5、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 5、 2の画像 2
    • カメラケーブルを光学ドライブの開口側に向けて引っ張り、ロジックボードから接続を外します。

    • カメラケーブルのソケットはとても壊れやすいです、このソケットに上向きの力を加えないでください。カメラケーブルを、ロジックボードの表面に対して平行に引っ張ってください。

  6. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 6、 1の画像 1
    • Bluetoothケーブルをファン側に慎重に引っ張って、Bluetoothボードから接続を外します。

    • 光学ドライブの表面に対して、ケーブルを水平に引っ張ります。

    These pictures are not whats on my a1297. For example the Bluetooth connector is not set up like this. Its actually set up like the Late 2011 A1286. Not sure which model this is.

    Sean Love - 返信

  7. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 7、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 7、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、Bluetoothボードの筐体の上部とサイドから薄いプラスチックカバーを剥がします。2011年後半モデルは、もう一方の画像をチェックしてください。コネクタが違う位置に装着されています。

  8. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 8、 1の画像 1
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、BluetoothアンテナコネクタをBluetoothボード上のソケットからこじ開けます。

  9. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 9、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 9、 2の画像 2
    • Bluetoothボード付近に小さなEMIフォームが付いている場合、これを外してください。

    • Bluetoothボードの筐体にある切り欠きに巻かれたカメラケーブルを取り出します。

  10. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 10、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 10、 2の画像 2
    • 上部ケースにカメラケーブルのリテイナーを固定している7.1 mmプラスネジを2本外します。

    • 上部ケースからカメラケーブルのリテイナーを外します。

  11. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 11、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 11、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 11、 3の画像 3
    • ディスプレイデータケーブルのリテイナーに付けられた黒いプラスチックのフラップを持ち上げて、MacBook本体のDC-in側に向けて回転させます。

    • ディスプレイデータケーブルをソケットから引き抜きます。

    • ディスプレイデータケーブルのソケットは大変壊れやすいです。コネクタの接続を外す際に、上向きに持ち上げないでください。ロジックボードからコネクタが切断してしまうことがあります。ケーブルをロジックボード表面に対して、水平に引き抜きます。

  12. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 12、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 12、 2の画像 2
    • 上部ケースにディスプレイデータケーブルのリテイナーを固定している7.1 mmプラスネジを2本外します。

    • ディスプレイデータケーブルのリテイナーを取り出します。

  13. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 13、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 13、 2の画像 2
    • 2つのディスプレイブラケットから6.8 mm T6トルクスネジを各2本ずつ(計4本)外します。

    • 意図的に1本のネジをディスプレイブラケットと上部ケースに残したまま、次の手順に進みます。

    I viewed a YouTube video showing this process. There was a warning about the stripping of the Torx screws being common on this mid-2009 model MBP. Is that something you have come ever across? It's the only thing holding me back from attempting this myself. TY in advance!

    s0mvh - 返信

    Taking those hinge screws out can be difficult (they are fat, and they resist turning). In my first attempt I destroyed the Torx screwdriver bit (soft metal, I discovered, so the bit twisted into a corkscrew before it snapped off). After buying the ifixit screwdriver set I found that the driver bits were tough enough, but the screws still would not budge! So, I used a small mole-grip wrench to hold the metal part of the screwdriver, and GENTLY turned until I felt the screw give way with a click. Luckily, the threads did not strip. However, if you find that even with that extra torque from the wrench, it is still resisting in a big way, go one more step and try a very tiny drop of thread-loosening fluid on it. (That last suggestion, however, is risky, so be careful.... do not let any fluid get anywhere except the screw, and then give it time to work).

    RichardL -

    What's the url to the youtube video you mentioned?

    David Fear -

    Too late. I should have read the comments first but I was rushing. I just stripped two of them. They are in there super tight.

    Sean Love -

    I just did this now (11:21 am, Sept 18 2014) A tip for removing glass bezel on the frame if you don't have a heat gun. I used a very sharp but super thin razor (the one for shaving) and slice the adhesive. Be careful not to hit the lcd. After slicing all around, get any thin plastic card and slide it all around the bezel until the glass comes off. I have a mid 09 macbook pro 17" that had a broken lcd and a 2010 macbook pro i7 17" that had a logic board problem but good lcd. Both A1297. I did it twice using my method.

    J A N Marquez - 返信

    Thanks! This made my display so much easier ...and I just love my new ifixit toolkit. Now... what else can I fix! lol Much appreciated!

    Leshell - 返信

    Be super careful with this part. I just stripped two of these t6 screws and have two more that will not budge. Now I have to figure out how to get them out. How did these get so tight? What a headache.

    Sean Love - 返信

  14. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 14、 1の画像 1
    • MacBook Proのディスプレイを開きます。上部ケースに対して垂直になるようにします。

    • MacBook Proを画像のようにテーブルに載せます。

    • ディスプレイと上部ケースを左手でしっかりと固定しながら、T6トルクスネジを下側のディスプレイブラケットから外します。

  15. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 15、 1の画像 1
    • 必ずディスプレイと上部ケースを左手で持ってください。 そうしないと、解放されたディスプレイ/上部ケースが落下し、各コンポーネントが損傷する可能性があります。

    • ディスプレイと上部ケースを固定しているT6トルクスネジの残り1本を外します。

  16. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 16、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 16、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody ディスプレイの交換: 手順 16、 3の画像 3
    • 右手で上部ケースを掴んで、ディスプレイの上部に向けて若干ずらします。すると上部ディスプレイブラケットが上部ケースの端から外れます。

    • ディスプレイを上部ケースから少しずらします。

    • ディスプレイを上部ケースから持ち上げて外します。ケーブルやブラケットが絡まないようにご注意ください。

    • 再組み立ての際は、ディスプレイを所定の位置に揃えて、ディスプレイブラケットのトルクスネジを取り付けてから、蓋を閉じてノートパソコンを上下逆にして、本体とスクリーンの位置合わせをしてください。 必要に応じて、ディスプレイの位置を再調整してから、ネジを締めます。

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てするには、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

41 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

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Andrew Bookholt

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7 件のコメント

This guide was a bit difficult to follow because the photos didn't represent 'exactly' what I was seeing. I was able to find the corresponding connections.

The trouble I'm having is the guide seems to end a few steps too soon. I still have a display inside the upper shell, the piece with the Apple logo. I'm very concerned for the well-being of the 'old' pieces in question. I have to save the upper case piece while extracting the display.

Any ideas please?

buz - 返信

The title is misleading, and only covers the upper shell removal. I believe your issue is that you want to replace the display panel only, and not the enclosure or camera device. In most cases, however, technicians will simply counsel replacement of the entire upper shell, as replacing inner display components will rack up service hours and end up costing the equivalent of a new shell.

From an iFixit perspective, however, this is moot. You could find a display panel component on ebay, and do the work. I hope you found a more in-depth guide.

brendonwbrown -

According to comments from iFixit on the teardown (MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Teardown), they don’t consider the upper case assembly to be repairable. See comments on step 23 of the teardown.

If anyone has been able to open and close the upper case without damaging it, please share the procedure with the rest of us!

shamino -

How much of this do I need to do simply to replace the LVDS cable?

RB1234 - 返信

17” 2011 Macbook Pro 2.5 (BTO) has a different section at the left hand side, the part where the cables for the wireless hook up. Pay attention to the layout and think before untying any screws. The board that hooks up the wireless is “in” a separate bridge, installed next to the DVD writer with independent screws for suspension.

aramis - 返信

Excellent guide, thank you. My laptop is a bit different to pictures, but by looking at other guides and using this one as my main source it was easy to work it all out. I found it easier to lay the keyboard side on a foam mat on edge of table to remove and refit upper shell as in this demo: https://youtu.be/u7jjMI1Et0k?t=200 - I couldn’t manage it with sitting it on its side. Biggest problem was stripping screws, which I finally figured out I was doing by using too small a driver - best advice from my experience is to have good quality tools with a few sizes either side of the drivers specified, and use the largest driver that catches before going too far with it. I had an extra wi fi cable from my new screen (early 2011 screen for a mid 2010 mbp), which just I taped and tucked it in. Was so stoked when I turned it on and it all works beautifully!

Trish - 返信


Can you replace a glossy display with a matte display? Can this be easily replaced?

ich_bins - 返信

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