はじめに
このガイドを使ってMacBook Pro Unibodyの壊れたディスプレイを交換します。
必要な工具と部品
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ケースを閉じた状態で、平らな作業台の上にUnibodyの上部を下側に向けて配置します。
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アクセスドアの取り外しラッチの溝のある側を押して、飛び出した側の先端を掴んでください。取り出しラッチを垂直になるまで持ち上げます。
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半透明のプラスチックタブを掴んで、バッテリーをUnibodyから引き上げます。
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ラッチが押されると、バッテリーが所定の位置にロックされます。
Do I need to wait for the battery to charge completely before using the computer (while plugged in)?
No. You do not need to charge it completely before removing it.
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下部ケースにカシス(筐体)を固定している次の8本のネジを外します。
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5.4 mmプラスネジー1本
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14 mmプラスネジー3本
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3.5 mmプラスネジー4本
Hi, My name is Jess I need help asap I accidentally dropped my macbook Pro and i cant find the silver screw for the top left back side, Does any one know if I can replace it with an eye glass screw?? If you can help at all Please e-mail me at Chambliss_jess@yahoo.com thx please help me my bf is going off... ;(
The fixit PH00 is the wrong screw driver for this entire job. It did not fit in the screws, it was too pointy and caused screws to be rounded off.
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両手を使って、上部ケースから下部ケースを持ち上げて取り出します。
About midway along each edge is a snap. To release each snap, gently slide the flat edge of a Spudger under the lower case, then lift the lower case away.
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ケーブルのオス型先端をまっすぐソケットから光学ドライブの開口部分に向けて引っ張り、接続を外します。
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カメラデータケーブルを光学ドライブのチャンネルから巻き戻します。
I have a problem with previous made unprofessional teardown of this mac, and the port that the camera cable is connected to, on the m-board, is cracked, because somebody pulled it straight up .. can someone please, share an idea about the way of fixing it, or maybe a name of the part i need ?
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カメラケーブルのブラケットと上部ケースを固定している2本のプラスネジを外します。
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カメラケーブルのブラケットをカメラケーブルから外して、デバイスから取り出します。
For reassembly, it would improve the instructions to note the exact orientation of the camera cable, as well as the LVDS cable, in these steps (7-10). This avoids confusion as to where those cables go when the display is reattached (working steps 11-13 in reverse).
As viewed from the orientation of the laptop at this point (looking into the motherboard from the underside), these cables are routed ABOVE the mounting plates for the hinges.
Viewed from the front of the machine (as it would be sitting on the desk in front of you during normal use), they are routed BELOW those plates.
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上部ケースにディスプレイの左右サイドを固定している6 mmトルクスネジを各2本ずつ外します。(合計4本)
Ccouldn't make it past step 10 as the two T6 screws on the right stripped. I was using the correct tool, correctly seated, but the screws were simply unwilling to turn and the screw head gave out before they turned at all. The ones on the left came out alright, but there seems to be some type of thread glue on them. Recommendations on how to break that seal without stripping the screw heads might be a good idea. Otherwise - be forewarned.
I have the same problem with step 10. Can't remove the screw on the left, it is all damaged.
Benny Chew - 返信
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MacBook Proを開口します。そしてディスプレイを垂直に立てます。
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画像のようにMacBook Proをテーブル上に配置します。
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ディスプレイと上部ケースを片手で両方を掴み、下部ディスプレイブラケットから6 mmトルクスネジを外します。
Unlock without removing them , the two remaining center 6mm Torx screws securing the display to the upper case.
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上部ケースにディスプレイを固定している最後の6 mmトルクスネジを外します。
One of the Torx screws holding the Display in place failed to come out. I tried too hard and it shredded the head of the screw so there was no physical leverage to the screw driver, so I left it to avoid any further damage.
So instead I removed ‘not’the torx screw on the computer but the one on the display itself. There are three on the inner part of the screen, two facing the display and the third on the other side. It sled out easily.
It only added a couple of minutes to my time removing it.
But a word of caution, you must remove the long plastic housing that holds the cables for the iSight and display, just be gentle and slide it off trying not to snag the cables, it should come off easy.
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右手で上部ケースを掴んで、ディスプレイの上部に向けて若干ずらします。すると上部ディスプレイブラケットが上部ケースの端から外れます。
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ディスプレイを上部ケースから少しずらします。
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ディスプレイを上部ケースから持ち上げて外します。ケーブルやブラケットが絡まないようにご注意ください。
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デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
61 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! あなたも貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›
6 件のコメント
I used this guide to replace my hinges, but I noticed that the real problem was that the display was separating from the case. I Googled it and found a few reports like (https://discussions.apple.com/thread/371...) indicating that Apple has a replacement program in place addressing this as a latent defect.
I took my machine to the local Apple store, and even though I bought it at the end of 2008, they replaced the display for free.
If you're having a display separation issue it's worth seeing what Apple says before digging into it.
This thread is now "not authorized" for viewing. I think Apple doesn't want anyone to know about this issue!
This is a great guide. I also read the guide pertaining to the 2.53 GHz Mid-2009 MacBook Pro Display Assembly.
I wanted to report that I successfully removed the display assembly from a Mid-2009 MacBook Pro (2.53 GHz - no discrete graphics) and installed it on the Late-2008 MacBook Pro (2.53 GHz with dual graphics).
Everything appears to be identical, except (strangely) the screws, that are generally captive in the camera cable and the LVDS cable, need to stay with their original MacBook Pro. Meaning, keep all the screws with the same MacBook Pro. The other screws did appear to be identical though.
Bottom line, keep the screws to the same MacBook. That's easy enough, just remove the captive screws from the cables to keep them with the same MacBook Pro they were from.
(Also, the camera cable where it attaches the logic board was slightly closer to the optical drive and seemed to overlap it slightly when transferring the Mid-2009 display to the Late-2008 MacBook Pro. This didn't seem to pose a problem.)
I have to add to my previous comment about switching a mid-2009 15 inch MacBook Pro display to a late 2008 MacBook Pro. The reed switch that causes the computer to sleep when closing the display is on the other side. I tested this by holding a broken display (which has lots of magnets across the top) near the right side and this 2.53 GHz late-2008 Unibody MacBook Pro went to sleep. The magnet for the reed switch on the mid-2009 display is about halfway up the left side of the display. So I didn't notice this until I tried to close the MacBook and the backlight stayed on.
So while the display works perfectly and the hinges, camera cable, and LVDS cable match, the reed switch magnet is on the left side now (that meets the ExpressCard/34 slot, instead of the SD Card slot) instead of on the right (near the security slot) where the actual reed switch is for the late-2008 MacBook Pros.
I can just choose sleep from the Apple Menu every time, or put a tiny "refrigerator" magnet on the right side of the display.
gatortpk -
So I managed to do all this perfect except now my wifi card isn't recognised. I did miss out step three, which may well be my fatal error. I've ordered a new wifi card and I hope swapping this out will fix it. Anyone come across this?
The A1286 has no Access Door.!!
I actually can see no sign of the battery!...
aguib - 返信
I assume you have the newer model, with the built-in battery. It's still removable with tools, but these are the wrong instructions for that model.
lgc90 - 返信
when will there be a guide for the other unibody macbook pro. that does not have an access door?
irishking - 返信
Is there a manual to show, how disasembly the display, i mean, after step 5, to check the display between lcd and aluminiun back case?
Max
Max - 返信
On other guides you state the height of the HD that can be supported, e.g. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Model A1211 Hard Drive Replacement , I have read ( but have not confirmed ) that the uni-body MacBook Pro can be fitted with the 750GB and 1TB 12mm drive from Western Digital.
Can you confirm this?
Many thanks in advance.
ahothabeth - 返信
My display and aluminum casing has separated.
I don't know if it just snaps back together or does it need to be glued.
I dropped mine on the carpeted stairs and the display still works.
I'm hoping I can just snap it back together and that no plastic pieces or teeth of the snapping
portion have been broken........
SHerwood Ball - 返信
When you say "left fan" is this "left when looking at the logic board after turning the computer over and looking it up opening it up" or "left when sitting at the computer keyboard and typing on it"?
thvv - 返信
We always use left and right in reference to the computer when you're using it.
Andrew Optimus Goldheart -
Directions were great and the worn dc in board was replaced. The hardest part of the procedure is disconnecting the data display cable. A better description of step 21 is to slide the connector parallel to the circuit board towards the outside corner. Reconnecting correctly took several tries.
I used the tip of the spudger to nudge the corners a little at a time to seat the connector.
The ribbon connector for the keyboard has to be inserted all the way before seating the retaining cap. It took me three tries . First try power button did not work second try numbers keys did not work.
Thanks for the directions ...could not have done it with out them!!!
landryd - 返信
Hola. Poseo un MacBook Pro Late 2008 y debo cambiarle las cornetas. Me sirve unas cornetas de un MBP Late 2011?
jegonzalez80 - 返信
Please read the instructions about removing the bluetooth cable - you CAN work around it, and NOT take off the plug.
kenneth krabat - 返信