はじめに
MacBook Pro 15" のマジックタッチが効きませんか？新しいトラックパッドで取り戻しましょう。
必要な工具と部品
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両手を使用して排気口の近くから底ケースを持ち上げて、上部ケースに固定している2本のクリップを外します。
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底ケースを取り外して脇に置きます。
16 GB is the max
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ナイロンスパッジャーの端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをメイン基板上のソケットから持ち上げてください。
nails work pretty well as well...
At first sight I was confused when I read the description at this step, 'cause it seemed that disconnecting the battery connector was optional, in order to eliminate static discharge. While it's a helpful advice in other circumstances (as mentioned as an example changing hard drives), when changing the battery it is not an option - you have to disconnect the battery connector.
It would have been better to mention the optional disconnecting recommendation in a side-note.
Other than that, an excellent guide!
the fact that this step is optional can not be stressed enough. i tried disconnecting the battery and in the process it short circuited which now leaves me with an even more expensive problem than i had before when i just wanted to change hard drives (at least the new hard drive works fine..)
the hard drive changing worked though.
Any tool used to pry on the battery connector must be non metallic, to prevent unintentional short circuit between the connector pins. In my case, my index finger nails were strong enough.
Excellent guide, it was as easy as a breeze to replace my battery. I can't believe I nearly followed Apple in their saying that this part was not user replaceable. Great job for this description, and many thanks. iFixIt is THE reference for Mac owners.
Patrick.
So - I have a weird comment about this. I wanted to make sure that I was getting the right model - so I opened up my laptop and then thought "well, why not just remove the battery while i'm in here, it's shot anyway". Though, I forgot about the stupid screws (Apple really did us over on that one!). Though I disconnected the battery connector and didn't bother to re-connect it when I was finished and just put the cover back on.
Here's the weird part - when I went to turn my laptop back on...MY BATTERY WAS RECOGNIZED...AND WORKING! I was under the impression that the connector "connects" the battery's charge to the laptop, but this just doesn't make sense! Plus, now my very dead battery is in "normal" condition according to the system report. I haven't worked for apple, but have about 5 years of IT experience and am baffled by this! I'm starting to think i've experience a miracle! Has this happened to anyone else?
Possibly disconnecting the battery caused the System Management Controller to reset. That might have been your problem rather than the battery itself. See http://osxdaily.com/2010/03/24/when-and-...
I tried spudging the corner closer to the wires which was probably a bad idea. The corner broke off! I can't believe it was that brittle. So be careful. If it did it again, I'd aim for the corners AWAY from the wires or the sides themselves, though I seem to recall there not being much of a lip.
I used the spudger to gently ease the battery connector out. I then placed a q-tip between the connector and it’s socket to avoid making an accidental connection. A toothpick or some other soft stick might also work.
My battery connector had a shiny metal cover over it like a male USB plug. I had to take the 3 peace symbol screws oit and remove the battery before I could access thr plug properly. My battery plug also came off parallel to the board by walking the black plastic part off the metal part towards the battery. It required quite a bit of force to walk it off the connector. I broke a spudger trying. Something nonconductive but strong like a wittled down bamboo chopstick could work well.
Translate to Spanish:
Para ciertas reparaciones (por ejemplo, el disco duro), no es necesario desconectar el conector de la batería, pero evita cualquier cortocircuito accidental de la electrónica en la placa base. Si no desconecta el conector de la batería, tenga cuidado ya que partes de la placa base pueden estar electrificadas.
Use el borde de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería hacia arriba desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.
Es útil hacer palanca hacia arriba en ambos lados cortos del conector para "sacarlo" de su zócalo.
The BATTERY MUST BE DISCONNECTED - it is NOT OPTIONAL if you are going to remove the logic board.
These instructions are for Removing The Logic Board, so if that is what you are going to do the battery MUST be disconnected.
The informational item beginning with the words “For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), disconnecting the battery connector is not necessary … “ is NOT applicable to a set of instructions on removing a logic board and it should be deleted from this otherwise excellent set of instructions.
In my opinion the RAM should be removed first - i.e., before the battery is removed.
The RAM DIMMS are just in the way if they are left in their sockets on the logic board until step 33.
I cannot see any useful reason to not remove them very early in the sequence.
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バッテリケーブルをソケットから離すように少し曲げておき、作業中に誤ってメイン基板に接触しないようにします。
My battery connect was like mid 2010 model
Why not go ahead and remove the battery at this point instead of bending the battery connector back (see steps 23 -25 below)?
BilMcKelvy - 返信
Translate to Sanish: Doble el cable de la batería ligeramente lejos de su zócalo en la placa lógica para que no se conecte accidentalmente mientras trabaja.
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基板に左側ファンを固定している次の3本のネジを外します。
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3.5 mm T6トルクスネジー2本
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4.2 mm T6トルクスネジー1本
Where can we get the required T6 Torx Screwdriver to do this?
Use the TR6 instead
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板から左側ファンのコネクタの接続を外します。
Mine had all three screws the same length (3.5 mm I believe)
@rustys same here. had some replacement screw’s also with the torx t6 and they also where all the same size. So nevermind i guess if your fans are working well.
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから右側のファンコネクターを持ち上げます。
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ロジックボードに右側ファンを固定している3.4 mm (3.1 mm) T6トルクスネジを3本外します。
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ロジックボード上の外れた部分から右側ファンを持ち上げます。
After doing this remove the iSight connection; it’s the thin strip located at the bottom of the speaker socket. You can carefully pull it out.
Jirosworld - 返信
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ロジックボード上のソケットからカメラケーブルを引き離します。
One can see how to remove the cable in this picture: https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...
Better than pull is to push it with something like a screwdrive at the small angle left and right.
Before doing this remove the iSight connection; it’s the thin strip located at the bottom of the speaker socket. You can carefully pull it out.
Jirosworld - 返信
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからAirPort/Bluetoothコネクタを引き上げます。
Am I the only one but my MacBook has black shielding on the CD-R drive, not some clear tape stuff to reveal the internals on the drive….
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから光学ドライブコネクタを引き上げます。
Mine had a little adhesive strip behind the connector. Pull gently
Also had an adhesive strip, thanks for mentioning it!
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、サブウーハー/右側スピーカーのコネクタをロジックボード上のソケットから引き上げて、接続を外します。
Be really, really careful detaching this connector - make sure it's lifted from the cable side. I managed to remove the whole lot from the logic board by accident. On mine it was disguised under a lump of rubber foam.
To replace it, I removed the socket, held it in place against the solder pads and ran a 750degF soldering iron across the pads. It's definitely reattached it, I'm not sure how good the electrical contacts are yet.
There is foam on the top of this connector. Do not pry up from under that. Instead, put your spudger underneath the red and black wires themselves and pry up. Very little resistance.
Passe auf, nicht den Plastikanschluss des Lautsprechers vom Logic Board abzubrechen, wenn du den Stecker mit einem Spudger gerade nach oben und aus dem Anschluss hebst!
Urs Wihler - 返信
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ロジックボードにキーボード/トラックパッドケーブルのカバーを固定している1.5 mm ( 1.2 mm )プラスネジを2本外します。
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ロジックボードからカバーを取り出します。
I ended up using a #000 phillips screwdriver instead of the #00. I was able to get this piece up without issue.
Dave Bruhn - 返信
Can I get it work with PH#00?
I was able to skip this step, along with 16, 17, & 18, and complete the repair successfully. Instead of fully removing the logic board as described in step 22, I lifted the left edge and then wiggled it left until I could lift it from the hinge edge; this gave me plenty of room to see what I was doing while removing and replacing the DC-in board.
@Sarah Dunlap. Yes, I did the same, it entirely possible ( although fiddly ) to complete this repair without fully removing the Logic board and instead lifting it out of the way taking care not to put too much tension on the keyboard ribbon cable.
bill borez - 返信
I used the J000 bit (I think this is a JIS bit, not Phillips) for these screws and they seemed like a much better fit. It seems like the screws aren’t actually Phillips (ie. with the curved, cam-out corners) but are squared off.
On mine the small black piece of plastic directly south of the plate we just removed that is connected to the aluminum frame underneath by two screws was broken in the middle. Can’t find what this piece is called or what its purpose is. It swings open from the screws like a door because it is broken in the middle but it doesn’t seem to have intrinsic value other than filling up space and seems that it would be held in place by the battery and the plate and the logic board once assembled.
I ended stripping one of the screws with Phillips #00 and just bent the metal piece carefully up instead so I could disconnect the two connectors underneath it. These screws are awful!
Aaron. The small black piece of plastic is one of two clips. The other is to the left of the one you mention. On the inside of the bottom case there are two small metal tabs that slip into these two black plastic clips.
As a couple of others have mentioned (above), I too had trouble getting these two screws out too. My problem was that they had corroded and locked into their threaded sockets. Also, the corrosion had rotted out the inside shape of the Phillips slots so that no screwdriver would fit properly.
I had to cut the cover down the middle and bend it up and out of the way.
Hey I’m trying to find the screws for this step online through ebay or amazon. But I can’t find it.
Is the screws the same as the one used on the trackpad, or the keyboard (ebay selling 100 pieces set)?
Can anyone check?
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指の先でキーボードリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを裏返します。
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、キーボードリボンケーブルをソケットから引き抜きます。
Need a better picture of the zif connector. You lift the lock from the side farthest from the flat cable, and it lifts toward the cable. When reinserting be sure to get the cable all the way or you may have only half the keyboard working.
Definitely should have read this comment before I cracked the ZIF socket…
this almost trigger panic button in my head, since after reassembly, my macbook wont turn on at all. turned out the keyboard zif cable is not fully inserted to the socket, and since power button is also connected through those flex, its no wonder it wont respond when i press it. Re-seat the zif flex and everything went great.
I could use some advice on reinserting the ZIF cable firmly in its socket. I can get it started, but getting it far enough in to make contact is difficult, given its flexibility. Any tips on manipulating it?
I used a piece of sticky tape that I attached to the ZIF cable, then pulled firmly on the tape (attached to the cable) to get the ZIF cable to seat properly. The tape held to the cable, the ZIF cable seated properly, and the keyboard worked.
REINSERTING THIS CABLE WAS ABSOLUTELY THE MOST DIFFICULT STEP IN THIS WHOLE PROCESS!
Key points:
•Make sure that it's inserted evenly. It's tempting to get one edge in, and then the other, but that approach will prevent it from seating properly.
•The cable goes all the way in. There is maybe 1/16" of the little grooves showing, but not much more.
•Once the cable is properly seated, use a piece of tape to pull it all the way in, and keep the tension on the tape as you use a sprudger to flip down the retaining flap.
•It's a fragile connection, and if you break the cable it's a top-case or keyboard replacement, which is either expensive or a PITA, so patience is key.
It's very easy to do this step incorrectly. Make sure to use your fingernail and pry gently. This was the only step I felt didn't have a great explanation and damaging the part could easily happen.
I messed up and broke the connector. Here is part of a video showing in close-up how to remove it properly (different model Mac, same connector). Wish I had seen it before I tried it.
Thank you for posting that video link. You saved me a lot of frustration!
Thanks for posting the video. Made it much clearer how to disconnect and save damage!
When they say "retaining flap", they are referring to a square plastic clip that hinges to the clip on the board. Starts at 7:15 in the video.
Thanks a lot! Great video
I needed that video. Thanks
Veeerrrry subtle. This video saved me I think. Thank you!
The key is between 7:33 and 7:36 but I didn’t catch it until the third watch.
Aaron -
Thank you to everyone who commented about this step. I did not have any trouble doing this but I could have. Also for all the excellent clarification especially the tips on reinserting the ribbon cable which I have yet to do after I hopefully fix the logic board
When they say "pull" the cable, they mean to "slide" it. Do not lift and pull.
Attaching a small piece of tape and pulling parallel to motherboard did the trick.
I acquired a macbook pro with a cut trackpad wire and no battery. In looking at this layout my concern is… what if the connection is pulled from the hinge and the hinge to hold it into place is completely missing?
The comment Kal left about lifting the retaining flap is key during reassembly!
I, too, totally missed that there is a plastic “bar” covering the end of the pins. Without that lifted up, it’s %#*@ near impossible to push the connector in since the flap/bar is putting pressure downwards.
With the retaining flap down, it comes out without too much effort. But putting it back in is a whole different story. Be sure to lift it up!
For reinserting, just be patient, lining up the ribbon, keeping a good hold on the tab, and applying even pressure along the ribbon, slowly, firmly reinserting. If the power button doesn’t work when you put everything back together, you will know the ribbon needs better connection. I promise you can do it!
ps, donʻt forget to LATCH the retaining flap back in place. i forgot and had to re-open the computer, was only getting the letter “H”. wasted 5 minutes for a 2 second slip up.
Thanks for this priceless comment. Had 8 dead keys. It occurred to me to check the comments here and, lo and behold, same here! Who needs adventure sports or drug taking for highs and lows.
Rob -
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットからバッテリーインディケーターのコネクタを持ち上げます。
It is not obvious which direction to pull. I pulled towards towards the center and pulled off the sponge handle. Easy to put back on. Pull towards the nearest corner.
cvmiller21 - 返信
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ディスプレイデータケーブルに固定されたプラスチックのプルタブを掴み、デバイスのDC-In側に向けて回します。
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ディスプレイデータケーブルをロジックボード上のソケットから引き抜きます。
The metallic flap controlled by the plastic handle looks like it could easily break... a safer route is to grab the shielded cable after rotating the metal flap out of socket and gently pry it out of the socket by applying force parallel to the logic board. It will probably take a few minutes but you could save yourself some gray hairs.
This is the hardest step IMO
"Pull the cable straight" means to slide the connector out, do not lift and pull. Also, check for a square locking clip attached to the plug, if it won't come out.
I really advise you to remove the cable retainer (one 8.6 phillips, you can see a photo in the display replacement tutorial) BEFORE unplugging the cable, to have more freedom of movement (to plug it in back it's even more important). Those are REALLY flimsy (i just broke one without being brutal and believe me you don't want to change it).
I found it helpful to remove the bracket for the display cable to allow more movement of the cable when attempting to reassemble
Really great site!! replaced a LB in an mid 2010 MBP with kernal panic crash. Fixed! No issues with detailed procedure and comments. So I'll add one for this step. This was the simplest step really. Additional clues. (Wish I could post a pix). Look at the gold conn in the pix above. Note that the cable mates with the conn with the 2 tabs each side showing full insertion. The silver retainer pops up, bar away from the cable. Using my custom tool, a small screw driver, filed really small as I don't have a #000 Phillips, release the retainer, then carefully wedge open the tab on each side, inserting your "tool" in the slot. Neatly and slowly, the conn comes apart. Putting it back together, once the conn is alligned, just push alternately on each tab. Doesn't take much effort, better that pushing on the cable. I also appreciate the comment that removing the clamp, both clamps with one screw actually, makes this easier.
This made a difference for me. I put my arm behind the computer to pull the hinge and tape everything away from me out of my way and holding out with my thumb and walk each side and bit by bit using the tool. I’ll add be very careful that it is steady parallel force. Also if you can’t get the hinge clip down when the cable seems in try steady flat force across the clip of the hinge with the tool alternating with walking it in even more with your thumb on top holding it down so you don’t actually accidentally pry anything perpendicularly up.
Aaron -
This is indeed a tricky step. First time, after following all the steps and reassembling I had no screen, which freaked me out. Luckily, another go at the connector did the trick and now I’m a happy owner of a macbook with a new trackpad. Thanks!
This step is really unclear! After grabbing what I thought was the “plastic pull tab” and having it come off in my hand, I was clueless about how to proceed. After puzzling over it for about 15 minutes, I saw the actual “plastic pull tab”, which was against the mother board near the fan. Pulling this upward unlocked the metal hinge and everything else was obvious after that.
I agree, this step was unclear. Part of the problem may be variations between logic boards. Mine did not look like the one pictured here. Mine has a tab lying flat against the logic board, as also described by xtophr. If this describes yours, check out [|this video] https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-IE3WNOsrZ... (around 40 seconds in) to see exactly how it comes out. You lift the locking clip up by the plastic tab, then (with a little bit of downward pressure on the cable) slide it out towards the nearest corner of the machine.
Wow Thansks for the video link. That definetly helped out to understand how this part actually moves. It is pretty easy after this explanation
ummm, yeah, this was an intimidating 2-STEP step. sounds easy, lift the latch then pull back on the cable connector, but it took me several minutes (felt like an hour) to figure it out.. reinserting was worse, i couldnʻt figure out how to relatch the connection, lots of attempts, and i finally got it in. tested it gingerly, and i think itʻs ok. at least, the screen is working, so iʻll take that as a good sign.
Fortunately, the step was easy for me thanks to all the great comments above. It could have been a disaster otherwise.
Step 19 :
First remove the cable clamp, one screw in center behind the connector. Lift the plastic tab upwards and rotating back over the connector. Slide connector out by pulling gently on bend in the wire harness. To reconnect, slide connector into place by pushing on back of bend in wire harness, do not push hard. Use small flat blade at each corner to make final connection. Swing locking hinge down. Reinstall cable clamp.
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スパッジャーのの先端を使って、キーボードバックライトのリボンケーブルZIFソケット上の固定フラップを引き抜きます。
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キーボードのバックライトリボンケーブルをソケットから引き抜きます。
Connector slides out, do not lift and pull.
any replacement parts available for this? I pulled up instead of sliding cable :(
This step would benefit from a macro view of hinged retaining flap and clarification. The instruction about flipping up the hinged retaining flap is misleading people into trying to flip out the ribbon.
Another great save by good comments. Thank you, thank you. :)
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次の9本のネジを外します。
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ロジックボード上の3.4 mm ( 3.1 mm) T6トルクスネジー7本
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DC-In ボード上の8 mm T6トルクスネジー2本
Remove T6 (smaller) screws first, that was the last screwdriver that you used (for smooth workflow).
Getting the DC board back in required a non-trivial amount of force to get it into position and lined up with the screw holes. It seemed to want to sit away further from it’s hole in the external case than it had to be to line up. I eventually got it in by leaving the main logic board out of it’s final position (but with the cable connected), which allowed me to get the leverage to push the DC board in so it would line up and be screwed in. Once it was in, I then positioned the main logic board and screwed it in.
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作業中光学ドライブケーブルとI/O端子に掛からないよう注意しながら、上部ケースからロジックボードアセンブリを左側からゆっくりと取り出します。
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必要に応じて、スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って上部ケースからマイクを取り出します。
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上部ケースの横からロジックボードのI/O端子側を引き抜き、ロジックボードアセンブリを取り出します。
I had a little difficulty pulling the motherboard before the battery. I'm not sure why you would want to do it in the order listed here, but doing steps 23 and 24 first helped the board come out easier.
maccentric - 返信
The thing that caught me on this step was that, at least on mine, the speaker box was glued/taped to the case, and so I got rather nervous trying to remove the logic board as it wouldn't move until said adhesive was pried apart. Thank goodness I knew the difference between the sounds of "board breaking" and "adhesive separating", but this step was still rather harrowing for me.
The microphone cable was easy to pry off the logic board for disassembly. For re-assembly, I was having a heck of a time getting the connector to connect to the logic board. There just isn't enough room to get your hands and tools in there and still see what you're doing (unless you're a dentist and you're used to that kind of thing). Anyway, I finally got brave and pulled the round, rubberized microphone from the case. I connected the short cable to the logic board, set the microphone in the made-for-the-microphone housing on the logic board, hoping it would stick itself back to the case once the logic board was in position, and I was back in business. In this case, simply stating "reverse these steps for reassembly" wasn't very forthcoming.
Pulling the microphone off the case is key to reassembling. Place the mic back into the cut-away in the speaker housing and plug the connection into the backside of the logic board
thx graciaaaas :)
When I did this step the microphone was REALLY STUCK to the upper case, it actually stayed stuck to it and disconnect "itself" from the mother board while I was lifting up everything.
Finally, there was no damage : I separated the microphone from the upper case while reassembling, then connected it back to the mother board and put it on its housing.
Count the number of connectors as you remove the board, so that when you put it back one does not get lost under the board and you can't figure out why it won't go in. You should do this.
If you laptop was getting hot when charging then be extra careful in this step because the foam pad under the logic board my have started to fuse to the casing. If the pad seems stuck then use a knife to gently pry it up.
I have the same case with Joseph Sikorski - it's hard to pull out the mother board because the speaker is glued that I thought their are remaining screws that hook in to it. Better use flat spudger to pry the right side that is stuck when you pull the left upward first.
Auldz Buzz - 返信
Repairing a friend’s laptop… I wonder if the “glue” between the speaker and case is actually juice or soda, lol
This part was highly stressful. The microphone/left speaker assembly are fused to the underside of the logic board. As you are facing the project according to the layout in these photos, the mike assembly is on the right side of the logic board, towards the top end. It is fused to the logic board but it also has adhesive sticking it to the upper case. As you lift, you have to insert a long spudger flat end down into that corner and move it back and forth between the mike assembly and the upper case, and it will release. Be very patient, focused, and slow. The spare part I bought from iFixIt had an extra speaker there in case I messed up, but I did not need it.
Hallelujah! There is a God!…Been sitting here for the past 2 hours, eyeballing the rubber whatever it is ”My New Moto”..When I’m stuck…”READ THE COMMENTS!…Thanks to all of you!!!!
taleahebey - 返信
For reinserting the logic board, it helps to have a second person helping hold connection points to the side so you do not accidentally lay the logic board on top. Just go slowly, being mindful of all connections. (best to start by properly seating the DC power unit in the upper right corner)
This step need a better picture of how the speaker and microphone looked from beneath the board, so people can understand where they should pry with the stick tool to wiggle the adhesive. In my case, it was the microphone that stucked, luckily the connector of the mic itself wigle off when i pull the board sideway. N fortunately the connector wasnt torned.
For any of you have difficulty in this step i would suggest to actually disconnect the socket of the mic from the board first, and then only pull the mic itself from the upper case.
When you put in back, remember there’s 11 connectors-wires
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上部ケースからバッテリーを取り出すには、装着されているプラスチックのプルタブを使ってください。
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、トラックパッドケーブルを覆っている大きな黒色テープの端をつまみます。
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テープを剥がし、トラックパッドの邪魔にない位置に折り曲げます。上部ケースの中に残したままにすると、再組み立ての際に便利です。
Mine did not have this tape.
maccentric - 返信
L’autocollant s’abîme au démontage : il se plisse et le côté collant ne colle plus du tout. Donc pas possible de le réutiliser au remontage.
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トラックパッドのネジブラケットからシルバーの1.3 mm #00 プラスネジを4本を外します。
Well, I was stuffed. So I broke off that side of the spring bracket, sneering the thin metal clean and then filing it down so it didn’t interfere with the new track pad. The remaining screw on that side holds it and it’ll have to do.
jmerwinp -
There are metal strips (the “spring brackets”) on each side of the trackpad which are really the ONLY things holding the top edge of the trackpad to the computer. You can see these strips if you examine the picture for iFixit’s “Trackpad Mounting Screws” part. The trackpad screws to the metal strips, and then the strips screw to the computer body.
The metal strips/brackets are VERY thin and bend very easily. So while you’re unscrewing the silver screws from the trackpad, support the other side of the trackpad with your other hand so it doesn’t move, so you can get enough pressure on the screw heads without bending or possibly breaking the metal strips.
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トラックパッドを後ろ側に動かしてから右側にスライドします。
Can anybody give any guidance on how to remove the ribbon cable from the trackpad? The battery in my Mac expanded, deforming the trackpad, so I want to replace it. However, the ribbon cable is intact (the trackpad even still works), so I just want to change the trackpad and the two springs, without disassembling the whole Mac.
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トラックパッドが上部ケースから外れたら、リボンケーブルを上部ケースのスロットより取り出します。
Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out
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トラックパッドを再装着する際は、4本のネジを軽く取り付けて上部ケースのキーボード側上のトラックパッドの並びを確認してください。
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上部ケース中にトラックパッドを中央に搭載できたら、プラスネジを最後まできつく締めてください。
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クリックする際の強さを調節するには、トラックパッド底に付けられた大型のトライポイントネジを使ってください。
What direction do you turn the adjustment screw if the trackpad is to hard to push to click
Is it necessary to take off fans, logic. Board etc. can you just work on trackpad after batterybis out?
You need to remove the fans, logic board etc to remove the touchpad. If you’re just trying to do some deep cleaning, you can remove the battery, loosen the 4 screws holding the touchpad pop it out a little bit BUT you need to be careful to not damage the cable, you’ll need to hold it with one hand while getting all the junk out along the edges. I just did that however next time I will just do a full disassemble as it’s not that difficult, the instructions make it sound more involved than it is.
My laptop fell a hard 3 feet while closed. Yikes! But it seems fine except the track pad is now out of whack. It’s not flush and clicking isn’t as defined. It’s lower on the left and too high on the right. Functionality is diminished but mostly still works. Can I adjust the pad without doing a full disassemble? Everything seems intact so I don’t need to replace anything, just adjust whatever got knocked off kilter.
Laura Dyer - 返信
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デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
70 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています！ あなたも貢献してみませんか？
翻訳を始める ›
25 件のコメント
Used this guide for a mid-2010 chassis, which seems the same. I'd recommend moving steps 23-25 to happen between steps 3 and 4. Basically, take the battery out first, immediately after removing the bottom cover. Also, replace it as a last step in reassembly prior to placing the bottom cover back on. What I found was that placing the logic board back into the machine (reversing step 22) was difficult with the fairly stiff battery connector cable. If you have better mojo than I do with a spudger, good on ya mate.
Definitely follow the advice about battery out first and the tip regarding double sided tape and corrugated board is really good. Easy to follow steps and worked perfectly.
Is it necessary to follow all the steps? My battery blew up; shattered the trackpad. Took battery out. Laptop works perfectly but need to replace trackpad. So since the battery is out, do I need to take everything else out, too? I do better with videos than still pictures. Dyslexia rules.
I have followed the steps, now my keyboard and trackpad is not recognised by mac os............ i have checked the cables, everything is connected......
I'm fed up.
mbouchet42 - 返信
Same here... Trackpad and keyboard not working after attempting this. I redid the process to look for errors, couldn't find anything wrong.
For those of you who replaced your trackpad, did you need to buy a replacement with a cable or just the trackpad itself?
Hi Kristina. The trackpad can be replaced with or without replacing the cable. The cable connector does have some tape that secures it to the trackpad, and that can be difficult to work with. Otherwise the cable is secured by a ZIF connector and can be removed with relative ease. If you tug on the cable too much, you run the risk of damaging the cable.
I used this guide multiple times to replace multiple trackpads on the same machine and I can say it's a well written guide. However, I am commenting here just in case someone can help me. Even with a new trackpad in place my mouse goes "crazy" from time to time. Always the same behaviour, stops responding, then responds and works normally, then starts again to move erratically, goes up instead of down, goes left instead of right and so on. When I restart my MBP and do a PRAM reset everything goes back to being normal. Hence I believe there is some kind of short circuit or something else going on as it is very random. Sometimes waking up the MBP triggers this behaviour. So please if anyone can suggest something I'm more than welcome!
I have the same issue with mine and am looking for a fix! It is very bad and mouse is ‘possessed’ and runs off on its own! Did you ever find a solution? Did replacing the trackpad help? Thank you.
You need to clean out all the gunk from the sides of a trackpad itself, and the sides of machine’s body, where it touches the trackpad with some rubbing alcohol. Stuff stuck between the trackpad and the body makes all the false clicks and erratic cursor behavior
This is called “ghost clicking.” To fix it, please see https://youtu.be/awihkz3aYkg
I just spent several hours replacing the trackpad on my mid 2009 Macbook pro. This guide was fairly close but not completely correct for my computer. I wish I had just removed the battery, steps 1 to 4 and then steps 23, 24, and 25. Then removed the track pad, steps 27, 28, and 29 WHILE DISCONNECTING the connector on the back of the track pad. It can be done and eliminating about 20 steps.
Havin replaced trackpads on 13'“ 2009 MBP’s, I did’nt bother looking for a specific tutorial for a 15” 2009.
Of course I was surprised seeing the cable diappear under the motherboard, but I had bought a replacement trackpad that came without the cable, so I assumed, what the heck!, it was OK pulling it out of the damaged trackpad. Then I kind of squeezed the cable back into the new one (silently praying for it to find its right position!). Restarted ( some more praing to G…eek there), and - halleluya - it worked.
Although I will not take the responsability of recommending the procedure (probably it was my lucky day), I thought some gamblers here might be interested. Good luck, guys !
I agree with rkomives. I did not need to follow the entire procedure to clean the trackpad (due to spilled coffee!), and my steps were similar to his. I did the following:
1. Steps 1-2 (remove case)
2. Steps 23-25 (unscrew battery). You do not need to remove the battery, which is still attached to the laptop by a cable. Just lift it up and place it gently on the laptop.
3. Steps 27-28 (remove 4 trackpad screws).
4. At this point, I then removed the trackpad from the cable, using the procedure described at https://youtu.be/awihkz3aYkg?t=115
5. I then cleaned the trackpad (twice), as in the video, and reinstalled the trackpad. It’s working great so far.
Thank you Andrew and others that put this together, with your help I can still enjoy using my old MacBook for a couple of years more! I agree that you might just skip the whole assembling part if you “just” disconnect the trackpad - you’d need to just get the battery out and you can access the trackpad immediately. Although it was an exciting journey to disassemble and put it back to together - thanks for giving me the chance!
I agree. This is how I handled it:
1. Steps 1-2 (remove case)
2. Steps 23-25 (unscrew battery). You do not need to remove the battery, which is still attached to the laptop by a cable. Just lift it up and place it *gently* on the laptop.
3. Steps 27-28 (remove 4 trackpad screws).
4. At this point, I then removed the trackpad from the cable, using the procedure described at https://youtu.be/awihkz3aYkg?t=115
5. I then cleaned the trackpad (twice), as in the video, and reinstalled the trackpad. It’s working great so far
This worked well for me. Note that if you are ONLY looking to replace the trackpad and NOT the cable on a 2011 15 inch then you do NOT need to remove the logic board which eliminates several steps especially around disconnecting all the connectors from the board. If you want to remove the touchpad AND the cable then you have to remove the logic board. The tips on where to pry up and which directions to move the cables were very helpful to minimize the likelihood of damaging a cable or connector. Note that I found the actual trackpad cable to be fairly delicate and actually damaged one feeding it through the casing. I suggest highlighting that you want to re-tape the trackpad cable to the housing before replacing the logic board. Thanks!
Two things to note: a) to just replace the trackpad you only need to remove the battery. b) After 8 years the battery finally got a bit thicker and blocked the trackpad to the left so a click did not work. Here you just need to replace the battery, not the trackpad. Anyhow, getting rid of the grease in between trackpad and housing was worth dismounting the trackpad.
If I buy the trackpad with screws and cable ($84.99), do I still need to by the mounting screws? Currently the mounting screws are out of stock.
Ich würde gern noch ergänzen, dass man auch einfach das Trackpadkabel abziehen und das neue anstecken kann. Dafür muss man nicht den kompletten Mac auseinander nehmen und kann direkt zu Schritt 23 dieser Anleitung springen. Nach Schritt 28 kann man das Trackpadkabel dann leicht anheben und abziehen.
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I would like to say, that you also can pull out the cable from the trackpad and replace only the trackpad. There is no need to take out the logic Board. You can directly jump to step 23, lift the cable a little bit and pull it out (from the old trackpad) after step 28.
Thank you so much for this detailed guide! My trackpad was ghosting and acted like it had a mind of its own after some water spilled over the trackpad. Purchased a replacement trackpad with the wire and followed through this guide step by step today and then repeated everything in reverse to put my macbook pro 15 2011 back together and the new trackpad replacement installed works like a charm. Could not have done it without the guide. Really appreciate this article and having my trackpad issue resolved now definitely made my day. Thank you thank you!
I’ve just followed this guide through to replace a trackpad on a Mid 2010 MacBook. The track pad is working fine to move the cursor around but is not registering any clicks. I can’t see that any cables are unseated, i’ve double checked them, and everything else seems fine. Any help would be much appreciated.
Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.
Bizarre much?
Will - 返信
It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)
Andrew Janke -
I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!
xtophr -
I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.
leonie - 返信
Great advise! Love it! :)
Ririds -
I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.
Now I use these:
http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...
The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.
Richard Sato -
I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.
Roscoe -
I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.
jelimoore -
Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.
maccentric -
I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.
Nils -
@Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.
Roger - 返信
Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.
So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.
wresnick - 返信
Hi,
Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.
H Stahl -
MacBookPro8,2
Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB
Mountain Lion
May someone help me?
I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)
Piero - 返信
To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually
1982sketcher -
Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!
- zerø K
zeroK - 返信
a video of these steps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SS9is40C...
julie56 - 返信
These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.
Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.
Thanks!
Marcos - 返信
During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed
kusi - 返信
There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.
Print the repair guide.
Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.
When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.
You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.
Same thing with any part you remove.
splashzoneent - 返信
Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!
Tommy Kedar -
Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!
nclarke36 -
Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.
It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...
SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .
SOME TRICKS -
1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.
2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.
3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.
cheers- Durango CO!
Dgodrummer - 返信
Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...
kevicoll409 - 返信
The link above is no longer available.
Kristina Graham -
I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.
Pete Banks - 返信
The instructions say that I am removing PH00 screws. I found that my MBP, mid ‘12, Retina has pentalobe screws instead!
jsandersonq - 返信
This laptop definitely originally shipped with Phillips screws—but, Apple has been known to replace Phillips screws with pentalobes when one of their devices is brought in for service. Sorry for the rude surprise! Fortunately the correct driver is easy to find nowadays. [Blatant self-promotion alert!] If you support free repair manuals, consider picking one up from iFixit. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Me, too, and it’s plausible that this machine has been serviced by Apple in the past, replacing the screws as Jeff Suovanen suggests.
iFixit shipped a pentalobe bit with the kit, but it’s too large for the actual screws, so it looks like I now need to get another bit. But what size?
Jeff’s link is to a driver with a P5 bit, and that page links to a P2 screwdriver, but since I don’t know what size I actually need (and I don’t have a micrometer to hand) I’m reluctant to buy two on spec.
Norman Gray -
(The bit in the kit appears to be a P6, so I’m inclined to order a P5 and see what happens)
Norman Gray -
You’re using the wrong repair guide. This guide is for the 2012 NON-Retina MBP. You have a Retina MBP. The stock case screws in the 2012 NON-Retina are all Phillips, just as the guide says.
Steven Wymor -
To keep track of screws, I used the suggestions above by taping a photo of the lower case to a piece of corrugated cardboard and inserting/taping the screws in place. Also, as some have noted, the screws go back in at a slight angle; they are angled toward the center of the unit.
Kristina Graham - 返信
If your vision, like mine, is getting too fuzzy to be able to distinguish between a tiny Phillips screwdriver and a tiny Tri screwdriver, there’s an easy way. With a Phillips (or a Pozidrive) you can get two opposite wings to reflect the light from a lamp or window straight towards your eye at the same time. With a Tri (or Penta) you can only get one wing to reflect at a time, however much you twiddle it.
Alan Waller - 返信
There’s a very easy way to avoid cross-threading a screw thread, any size.
Put the screw into its hole and start by turning it gently, slowly BACKWARDS. When you hear a little “Click!” sound, the male thread has just passed the opening in the female thread and is in exactly the right position to enter into it correctly when you start to turn in the correct forward direction.
Remember, all drivers except hex (Allen key) and TorX need pressure to avoid slipping out and damaging the head. So even when you want to turn it in with LOW moment/torque, keep the CONTACT PRESSURE high.
Alan Waller - 返信
The keep the pressure on is on point. In my case once I loosened my first screw I thought I could relief my initial pressure. It was a mistake. I was doing the whole thing very slowly as a precaution. That helped me notice that the Phillips screw driver was sliding up out of the screw head. Not being sure why, I put pressure back on the screw driver until almost all the screw was out of the hole. Once out, I examined closely to find out that the threads have some sort of coating. It looks to me like some kind of locktite. Then I understood the importance of keeping the pressure on all the way through. It made me uneasy having to keep so much pressure on such tiny screws, but I found it was the only way to prevent damage to the “slots” on the heads. Anyway, all of them suffered some degree of damage, but I was able to successfully remove them and reinstall all of them back in their original holes.
Martin Mejia -
After reading this page on iFixit several times, I just could not face all the work of replacing the Logic Boards on two MacBookPro 2011s even if I was prepared to pay approx 400 USD (which I wasn’t). Then I read the reviews of a couple of folks who’d stripped down their machines and put their logic boards in the oven and, it worked! I wondered, if I just used my new Steinel Hot Air Tool (heat gun in my language) recently delivered from iFixit, on the logic board in-situ, without removing it? So I removed the battery, hard drive, and RAM and unplugged all the leads I could see WITHOUT removing anything else physically. Then using the 500 degrees set on the gun (setting 2) I ‘played’ the gun over the logic board for about 60 seconds on machine one with the restart problem (plus latterly, not completing start-up). Long story short… it worked! I spent a long time getting the s/w to load, but the commentary is too short to let me relate that part… ping me if I can help you do the same! blackaye@gmail.com
Ian Black - 返信