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はじめに

このガイドとiFixitの接着剤リムーバーを使って、安全に接着剤で固定されたバッテリーをMacBook Proから取り出します。接着剤リムーバーはバッテリーを固定している接着力を弱めるために使用されます。これにより、バッテリーの取り出し作業が容易になります。

iFixitの接着剤リムーバーは可燃性があります。 この手順に従って、通気性のよい場所で作業を行なってください。作業中、喫煙をしたり火の気のある場所で行わないでください。

ダメージのリスクを軽減するため、MacBookのバッテリーを完全に放電してから作業を始めてください。 充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーは、アクシデントで穴を開けてしまうと、危険でコントロールできない引火を起こすことがあります。バッテリーが膨張している場合は、適切な方法で処理してください

ご注意:溶剤はバッテリーの接着剤を溶解するためですが、あるプラスチックにダメージを与える場合があります。接着剤リムーバーを塗布する場合は、全てのインストラクションに従って、十分注意しながら作業を進めてください。

  1. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換, Auto Bootを無効化する: 手順 1、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換, Auto Bootを無効化する: 手順 1、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換, Auto Bootを無効化する: 手順 1、 3の画像 3
    • この手順を開始する前に、Macの自動起動機能を無効にする必要があります。蓋を開くと、Macの自動起動によって分解中に誤って起動される場合があります。 この手順に従うか、以下の簡略化された指示に従って自動起動を無効にします。このコマンドは全てのMacに応答するわけではありません。

    • Macを起動し、ターミナルを開きます。

    • 以下のコマンドをターミナルにコピー(または正確にタイプ)します。

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • [return]キーを押します。パスワードを求められたら、管理者パスワードを入力し、 [return]キーを再度押します。補足: [return]キーは ⏎ や "enter"として印字されている場合もあります。

    • これで、誤って電源が入ることなく、安全にMacの電源を切り、底面カバーを開くことができます。

    • 修理が完了し、完全に組み上げられた際には、以下のコマンドで再度自動起動を有効化してください。

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    Macrepair SF - 返信

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

    Dan -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - 返信

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - 返信

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - 返信

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - 返信

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - 返信

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - 返信

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - 返信

    If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot

    Roberto Sanchez Bustos -

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - 返信

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - 返信

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - 返信

    Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

    Ed Mechem -

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - 返信

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - 返信

    I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

    hatuxka - 返信

    BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

    I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

    Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

    bcardanha - 返信

    When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

    johann beda - 返信

    When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

    Ed Mechem -

    I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

    I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

    I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

    Mircea Comanici - 返信

    After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

    Ed Mease - 返信

    This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

    G Sena - 返信

    • MacBook Proの電源を完全に切って、接続を外します。ディスプレイを閉じて、ラップトップを裏返します。

    • P5ペンタローブドライバーを使って、次の長さのネジを、下部ケースから外します。

    • 4.7 mmネジー4本

    • 6.6 mmネジー2本

    • これらのネジを外す際に、ネジの方向を書き留めておきましょう。ある決められた角度でインストールしなければならないネジがあります。

    • この作業では、各ネジの装着位置を書き留めておきましょう。デバイスのダメージを防ぐため、組み立ての際は、本来の位置に取り付けてください。

    These screws are TINY and different lengths. I highly recommend purchasing the recommended magnetic project mat.

    Steve - 返信

    So this need to replace each and every screw in its exact former position explains exactly the excruciating difficulty I am having in getting the set of four shorter screws screws back in after everything else having gone successfully. Wanna scream at the top of my lungs. Maybe this point needed to be made in all ALL CAPS and BOLD for me. So can I still just start over trying each screw in each hole or have I messed up the threads in trying to screw in screws mismatched to their holes?

    hatuxka - 返信

    The front screws are at a slight angle, pay attention when putting them back!

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

    I did not have the magnetic project mat, but instead I stuck loops of blue painter's tape on the table, wrote the step number on them in sharpie, and stuck the screws/covers for the corresponding step on them.

    dunhamsteve - 返信

    If the battery you are replacing is swollen and you do not know it is - swollen, Watch out!

    You may strip threads on some of the screws. Rotate the unscrewing as in a clockwise - counterclockwise manner if some of them start to feel tight.

    G Sena - 返信

  2. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 3、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 3、 2の画像 2
    • 吸盤ハンドルを両ネジ穴の間の下部ケースのフロント側端付近に装着します。

    • 吸盤ハンドルを引き上げて、下部ケースの下に小さな隙間を作ります。

    You can probably just skip to step 6 if battery is swollen. These steps will likely be taken care of for you.

    G Sena - 返信

  3. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 4、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 4、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 4、 3の画像 3
    • 下部ケースの下に出来た開口ピックの先端を隙間に差し込みます。

    • 開口ピックを一番近い角の周辺までスライドしてから、MacBook Pro側面の半分上まで移動します。

    • 下部ケースを固定している隠れたクリップの一番目を外します。クリップがカチッと音がして外れる感覚があります。

  4. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 5、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 5、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 5、 3の画像 3
    • 反対側も同じ作業を繰り返します。開口ピックで2番目のクリップを外します。

  5. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 6、 1の画像 1
    • 下部ケースの正面側端を持ち上げて(ディスプレイヒンジと反対側)、指先が入るぐらいまでスライドしてあげて、先端を掴みます。

    • 2つの隠れたクリップが、カバーの中央部分に付いています。まだ外れていない場合は、この時点でカチッと音がしてクリップが外れるはずです。

    • 持ち上げすぎないでください。そして、まだ下部ケースを外さないでください。

  6. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 7、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 7、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 7、 3の画像 3
    • 下部ケースをしっかりとMacBookのフロント側に向けて引っ張り(ヒンジエリアから離します)、下部ケースを固定している最後のクリップを外します。

    • 一方のコーナーから引っ張り、その後で次のコーナーを引っ張ります。

    • 水平に引いてください。上に向けて引かないでください。

    • この作業にはかなりの力が必要です。

    This step drew blood. Darn you Apple!

    Kyle B - 返信

    I found it easier to insert a screwdriver through the hole (not too far down), and use that to pull sideways, as it was hard to get a strong grip with my fingers.

    Athanassios Diacakis - 返信

    If you have a black stick, or a nylon probe tool, you can insert it at the back at the point closest to the screw holes, and use that to push the lower case forward. I’ve seen this help me quite a few times, and it makes it quite easier.

    Adrian Brown - 返信

    I like adrianbrown's suggestion. Spot on!

    wmetzgerusa - 返信

    Its difficult if the side catches arent released properly, check them again if it seems too much.

    tonygreenfield - 返信

    I snapped one of the spring loaded logic board grounding pins. Take your time. Leverage from the back in order to push it out versus pulling on it.

    stevanuscg - 返信

    Take the opening pick and stick the edge down behind the hinge all the way to one side, so it is perpendicular to the case, and give it a twist. That end should pop free. Do the same on the other side and there you go.

    Indawg Wetrust - 返信

    Thanks Indawg Wetrust, Made it very easy!

    Louis C - 返信

    They, iFixit, are not kidding. Quite a bit of force needed.

    Norm Hils - 返信

    This step requires a lot of force to slide the back cover away. Make sure you get a good grip of the mac body and of the back panel.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

  7. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 8、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 8、 2の画像 2
    • 下部ケースを外します。

    • 下部ケースを再インストールする方法:

    • 所定の位置に合わせて、スライドヒンジをディスプレイヒンジ付近のクリップをスライドしてクリップを装着位置に揃えます。カバーを押し下げて、ヒンジ側にスライドさせます。 クリップが揃ったらこれ以上スライドしません。

    • クリップが完全に装着して、下部ケースが正しく配置されているようであれば、下部ケースをしっかりと押し下げて、隠れた4つのクリップを留めます。 所定の位置にカチッと音がしたら、装着されています。

    I am doing a battery replacement for a client on this model. The battery has swollen more than I have ever seen before on a Mac! Roughly a ½” higher, once cover removed. Cover was so tight that one screw stripped and had to drill out one screw after trying everything else! Fortunately, I’m an exmechanic/machinist and I own a full size drill press! None of the screw extraction tools sold by ifixit worked or were applicable until I finally got the cover off. Then the small screw pliers from Japan were easier to use than anything else I own. My tools are mostly for larger nuts, bolts and screw extraction. Possibly a mini hammer driver screwdriver would work if one could be made small enough for tiny screws! Ross

    Ross Elkins - 返信

  8. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換, バッテリーコネクタ: 手順 9、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換, バッテリーコネクタ: 手順 9、 2の画像 2
    • バッテリー付近のロジックボードの端にある、大きな長方形のバッテリー用ボードカバーを剥がして、取り出します。

    • カバーが容易に剥がれない場合は、iOpenerやヘアドライヤーもしくはヒートガンを使って接着剤を温めて、この下に留められた接着剤を柔らかくして、再試行してください。

    • 再組み立ての際に、カバーがしっかりと装着しなければ、180度回転させて再施行してください。下の接着パッドがボードのネジに接触するには、正しい方向に装着しなければなりません。

    What is the though behind this step? I have replace my trackpad before, and I did not do this step. At the time, there was no guide. As a result, I’m wondering how this changes/or if it is necessary for the repair process.

    Anthony Bleyer - 返信

    It’s necessary in order to disconnect the battery. Always disconnect the battery before making repairs.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I found my one of my fan making some noise, when open the bottom of my Mac I see this piece floating over the fan. Trying to put it back where it goes but don’t seem to stick anymore and move around. Does this piece is really necessary or I can simply remove it or order a new one from you?

    Alexandre Bolduc - 返信

    It should be pretty easy to reattach. Put a dab of rubber cement or a bit of double-sided tape on top of each of the screws underneath the cover, press the cover down, and close up your MacBook. It should stay put. Don’t use superglue or anything else that will harden over the screw heads and make it impossible to fit a driver in there later.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Do you know if this piece is necessary. I lost mine.

    scoop scoop - 返信

    My Macbook doesn’t appear to even have this piece.

    Nate Bartlett - 返信

    This cover is not attached to anything critical underneath, so do not be afraid that you can break anything like pulling anything from the mainboard. Just pull it out. To reattach, I removed the old double side adhesive tape and replaced with fresh one.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

  9. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 10、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 10、 2の画像 2
    • バッテリーボードのデータケーブルコネクタを覆っているテープを剥がします。

    • テープが完全に剥がれないかもしれません。コネクタにアクセスできれば、それ以上剥がす必要はありません。

    Wow, mine peeled up from the board. Now I have some board level soldering. Any part number on the connector for this cable on the board.

    Mark Mata - 返信

    I second that; does anybody know where this battery board data cable connector can be purchased?

    Tim - 返信

    The replacement battery did not come with the “tape” in this cable so it was very difficult to reinsert the cable into the zif socket. Now I can’t get the replacement battery to charge.

    J D - 返信

    I have the same issue, My battery is not charging. Did you figure out how to get your battery to charge?

    Jeremy Smith -

    In my case, the original replacement was faulty. iFixIt sent an RMA without hesitation, and I am happy to report that the new one works fine. But also recheck this step and steps 13/14.

    J D -

    Note that the tape covering that comes on the OEM battery is not included in the battery sent from iFixIt. I removed it from the old and attached it to the new, but it does not “re-stick” very well, so it’s rather difficult to re-insert. Be careful, the ribbon is fragile.

    J D - 返信

    I was able to reinsert the cable easily a number of times with the nice Ifixit angled tweezers as the ziff connectors tiny latch came off! I ended up using a bit of Pliobond 25, contact cement to mke sure the data cable doesn’t move. A future repair will just pull off or at most need an xacato blade knife to slit the rubbery cement. Ross

    Ross Elkins - 返信

    REALLY important. You need to really pull this back in snug for things to work when you reassemble.

    Michael Stelzner - 返信

    I didn’t seem to have any tape covering it, I just proceeded to the next step

    Nathan Skene - 返信

    My battery board connecter is broken. Let me know where can I get these cables.?

    Lalitha Prasad - 返信

    I recommend to just lift a little the right end (end of the cable side), then keep the socket in place with a spudger while removing this adhesive tape, to avoid any accident like ripping off your socket. With a little care, it is safe and easy to remove completely.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

  10. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 11、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 11、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 11、 3の画像 3
    • バッテリーボードのデータケーブル用のZIFコネクタ上のロック用フラップを、スパッジャーで慎重にこじ開けます。

    Mein Sicherungsbügel ist abgebrochen, oder zumindest nicht mehr auf dem ZIF-Stecker. Ist dieser Sicherungsbügel sehr wichtig, oder kann ich das Kabel dennoch zurück stecken?

    Fabio Jock - 返信

    Hallo Fabio, wahrscheinlich wird das Kabel ohne den Bügel nicht mehr halten. Das Zurückstecken geht, aber es bleibt nur sehr fragil drin.

    Fabian Neidhardt -

    Sie sollten in der Lage sein, das Kabel wieder anzuschließen und mit einem guten Klebeband abzudichten.

    mark - 返信

    My zif connector was already open. It apparently never got closed during manufacture. Being so tiny this made it difficult to see why there was nothing to pry up with the spudger. Once I put my finger on top of it I realized the flap was already verticle.

    Ian Simmons - 返信

    lock flap broke when I was about to close it, is there any way to fix it? The computer can't find the battery

    Gabriel - 返信

    I had no issue here but I recommend to use a second spudger to keep the rest of the socket in place while GENTLY lifting the lock. It should lift without effort.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

    When putting it back, be careful, there might be a little piece of transparent adhesive foil on top of the socket, gently lift it up on the side of the cable. The cable should slide in easily, but do not force it. About 0.5mm of the cable contacts will be VISIBLE on the left side, when the cable is fully it, do not force it more than that.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

  11. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 12、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 12、 2の画像 2
    • バッテリーボードのデータケーブルを、ソケットからスライドさせて、接続を外します。

    • ケーブルをスライドする方向は、ロジックボードと並行にしてください。

    If this breaks, what’s the risk to the computer?

    Jose Lopez - 返信

    I tried powering mine on after my zif connector socket broke. It made bad electrical noises. I had water damage at one point and cleaned the unit very well but never replaced the battery. Through excesive, a hot and bad battery, or water damaged weakening the area mine came right off with the tape when i peeled it up. Im working on finding the part and will attempt to solder it back. Of course i still need a battery which ours was swollen. After water damage it worked great for over a year though.

    Mark Mata - 返信

    Mine broke and now the Macbook will not power on, this was after a battery replacement, the Macbook powered up afterwards, but after transporting it, it would not power up. I removed the back cover and noticed the battery board cover was missing and the zif gate for the battery data connector was half off.

    Charles Braxton - 返信

    Same here, I broke the cable which was soldered on the mainboard. I tried to hold it on place with a tape, but I couldn‘t charge my macbook though. Then I tried to solder it and I also failed. I wish I had read the comments before :/

    Sebastian Fritsch - 返信

    I couldn‘t find the fpc 6 pin connector with 0,5 mm grid. However I managed to connect the flex cable directly on the mother board with 0,3 mm isolation filament! It was tough but I‘m so happy that it works again :)

    Sebastian Fritsch - 返信

    Would you be able to give a little instruction on how you were able to make this work? I’m super curious and need a solution to the same issue.

    Tim -

    Anybody know where this connected can be purchased? Mine completely snapped to pieces the moment I touched it.

    Tim - 返信

    Surprised by the tolerance of this little connector to my mistake of not flipping up the not very noticeable clamping element on side opposite to where the contact tip is inserted. The contact tip pulled right out without having done that. Saw in a video I should have done that before pulling the contact tip out. Remembered when reinstalling it.

    hatuxka - 返信

    The cable is stuck on the board underneath with adhesive, so it is best to first work it a little from left under (as the picture is oriented) in order to break the adhesive, and then pull it sideways. At all times, I kept the socket safe with a spudger to avoid ripping it off the board. The cable will come out with a little effort. Remember, it is the socket you need to take care of, not the cable (the cable will be thrown away with the old battery).

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

    I had issues in reassembly - the lever for the ZIF socket was missing. I think it came off with the tape. I found the lever, but it was way too small for me to reattach (I couldn't hold it well enough with the tweezers and wasn't sure where the hinge pins went).

    The computer did not recognize the battery or recognized it with errors (if I got the cable just right) without the lever.

    My solution was to cut a tiny bit of electrical tape and put it on the back of the ribbon cable to make it thicker. This gave it enough traction to stay in the socket and pushed the ribbon onto the contacts.

    dunhamsteve - 返信

  12. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 13、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 13、 2の画像 2
    • T5トルクスドライバを使って、バッテリーパワーコネクタを固定している3.7 mm パンケーキヘッドネジを1本外します。

    It was actually T6 in my case

    Fedor Pudeyan - 返信

  13. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 14、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 14、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーを使って、慎重にバッテリーパワーコネクタを持ち上げて、バッテリーの接続を外します。

    • ソケットからコネクタを外す作業中、コネクタを十分な高さに持ち上げてください。これがアクシデントで接続してしまった場合、MacBook Proにダメージを与えてしまいます。

    I tossed a piece of tape on the connector just to be safe.

    Kyle B - 返信

    wondering if i didn’t heed this warning close enough. mac not powering on. only black screen with battery and lightning bolt beneath it. What happens if this connector makes contact?

    ONYCHA HAZEL - 返信

    im in the exact same boat right now.

    Was everything okay in your case?

    Anthony Gasbarro -

    Same here until I realized that I never reconnected the tiny power button/Touch ID connector in step 31! It’s underneath the headphone cable jack from step 30. Mine was hiding under the board and I carefully fished it out with a tweezers.

    ajm0824 -

    I have the same issue. Followed Instructions to theT. Battery is connected properly as it fully charged however, it will not power on. If i disconnect the battery and connect the power adaptor, it powers on. How did you resolve your issue?

    Ian Duff -

    Mine will power on, but will not charge.

    J D - 返信

    Hi, did you manage to fix this? Ive got the same issue sadly.

    Cooldude2222 -

    Same problem, any solution?

    federico.cirillo - 返信

    Lifting up to about 75 degrees is more that enough and safe, and I did also use some electrical tape to block the contact. When this goes back, there is no socket in place, it is just the screw that keeps it there.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

    I put electrical tape on this as well. Glad I did. "Being careful" during the whole process gets lost when you're focusing on other parts.

    Jay - 返信

  14. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換, トラックパッドアセンブリ: 手順 15、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換, トラックパッドアセンブリ: 手順 15、 2の画像 2
    • T3トルクスドライバーを使って、トラックパッドケーブルのカバーブラケットを固定している1.9 mmネジを2本外します。

    • ブラケットを外します。

    T3 doesn’t seem to fit, somehow on my a1707 the driver doesn’t grip and it just slips on the screw.

    What am I doing wrong?

    I don’t have a T2 to try, what can I do?

    Luciano Colosio - 返信

    I managed to get a holt of a T2, but still no luck: there are a bunch of screws that seem to be T2 but everything I stick inside them just spins around and doesn’t grip :(

    Luciano Colosio - 返信

    T4 worked perfectly

    DonPanchito - 返信

    Indeed, a T4 worked for me, also.

    Roy Vanegas - 返信

  15. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 16、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 16、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーを使ってトラックパッドケーブルをまっすぐ上にこじ開けて、ロジックボードから接続を外します。

    I managed to pry the metal bit with screw holes off first. Whoops.

    Nathan Skene - 返信

    Make sure the spudger goes under the entire plastic connector, not just the surface metal place, as you risk damaging it like the comment above.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

  16. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 17、 1の画像 1
    • トラックパッドのリボンケーブルに中程度の熱を当てて温めます。バッテリーを固定するために留められた接着剤を柔らかくします。

    • iOpener、ヘアドライヤーもしくはヒートガンを使用できますが、バッテリーをオーバーヒートしないようにご注意ください。ケーブルは温まらならければなりませんが、熱くて触れない程度まで温めないでください。

    I used a hairdrier. Barely needed to hold it there for 20 seconds before I could peel it off.

    Nathan Skene - 返信

    This cable can be carefully peeled off the battery by hand by those deft of hand. Gradually and inching along its length.

    hatuxka - 返信

    Just warming it gently made it easy to peel off. Work with care starting from the free end, lift a little, move your grip, etc. Do not lift it all at once, there is a risk of breaking it. It is safe to then move it at 180 degrees angle, completely on the other side.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

  17. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 18、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 18、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 18、 3の画像 3
    • 慎重にトラックパッドケーブルをバッテリーから剥がし、作業の邪魔にならないように、反対側に押し出します。

    • ケーブルを切断したり折り曲げないでください。作業がうまく進まない場合、無理やり続けないでください。熱を当ててから再試行してください。

    thin ifixit pick opener sliding gently/slowly underneath ribbon cable towards the front edge of mbp did the trick for me. no need for heat.

    Macrepair SF - 返信

    In my case the sticky part of the track pad ribbon remained on the battery. So after replacement the trackpad ribbon does not have a sticker to stay on the battery.

    Neil Robinson - 返信

    Did it work all right without the adhesive there?

    That happened to me too! I thought that was what was supposed to happen, until I read your comment. I managed to peel it off the battery, but before I could catch it it rolled up into a tight ball. I got about half of it unrolled and onto the ribbon.

    rileybk -

  18. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 19、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 19、 2の画像 2
    • T5トルクスドライバーを使って、トラックパッドアセンブリを固定している13本のネジを外します。

    • 5.8 mmネジー9本

    • 4.9 mmネジー4本

    • これらのネジは大変良く似ています。そのため、混在させないようにご注意ください。

    • これらのネジはForce Touchトラックパッド上のクリック機能によって、時間の経過とともに緩くなります。再組み立ての際は、小さなブルーのスレッドロッカーを加えて、ネジを固定させてください。

    • ネジを緩めに取り付けます。そしてトラックパッドのネジを締める前に、正しい位置に取り付けているか確認してください。

    Using a piece of cellophane tape can help hold the trackpad in place with with proper clearance all around.

    Russell Johnson - 返信

  19. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 20、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 20、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 20、 3の画像 3
    • ディスプレイをわずかに開きますが、MacBookを裏返したままにします。トラックパッドアセンブリは離して、ディスプレイ上で水平に載せます。

    • トラックパッドのリボンケーブルを筐体のスロットに慎重に通します。

    • 再組み立て中、トラックパッドケーブルを取り付ける正しいスロットであるかどうか確認してください。MacBookProの前端近くにある大きめのスロットではなく、バッテリーに沿ってある狭いスロットにケーブルを通します。

    WARNING - READ THE NEXT STEP NOW OR YOU WILL LOSE THE WASHERS. Please update this with BIG RED LETTERS in the step to indicate what is about to happen, or you’ll skip forward and the washers will fly everywhere. I’m really upset right now.

    Jason Sherron - 返信

    I would add step 21 to step 20. The warning about potentially losing the washers should be part of this step, not a separate one.

    fippolito - 返信

    this step is BS, I didn’t remove the touch bar, you just need to remove enough screws on the upper board to be able to pull the battery plastic frame and put it gain…

    what a loss of time!

    a m - 返信

  20. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 21、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 21、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 21、 3の画像 3
    • トラックパッドアセンブリを取り出す際は、ネジポストについている9つの小さなメタル製ワッシャーを紛失しないように特にご注意ください。(わずかに当たってしまうだけで飛び出してしまいます)

    • トラックパッドアセンブリを外します。

    They are not kidding about the jumping washers.

    Kent Folsom - 返信

    Pro Tip: put your magnetic mat under the trackpad as you slide it out to catch the tiny washers. Alternatively, a magnetic tool bowl, or a terry cloth towel so the lighter guys can’t get far if they fall.

    Kent Folsom - 返信

    Can I change the battery with out removing the trackpad and logic board?

    Mateo Munoz - 返信

    yes

    I did it, you just have you remove enough screws on the board to bend it upwards in order to pull the battery frame that’s it…

    my mac is working fine

    a m -

    yep lost a washer in the process

    Jason Sherron - 返信

    My trackpad underside was dusty. Without thinking, I tried to blow off some of the dust. One washer and one double washer were finally found thanks to a bright flashlight and the contrasting color of the wood floor.

    hatuxka - 返信

    One of the washer remained stuck on the body, luckily I observed it on the working table when I cleaned the dust from the trackpad casing area. Be VERY careful to not loose these tiny metal pieces!

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

    Without the washers the clicking and moving mouse around doenst work well. very important

    Herbie Computer Service - 返信

    Ok, I have all but 1 round washer. I found the rest. Not knowing a source (not even in my extensive parts collection) I will reassemble with the middle one without a washer. If anyone knows of a parts source (other than buying a trackpad assembly) please post here, Thanks.

    Carl Schultz - 返信

    When you put the trackpad to the side, write a note and put it on top so you don’t forget about the washers when you come to reassemble it.

    Robert Such - 返信

    Followed the advice on disassembly but did not on re-assembly. Lost one of the larger ones.

    Recommend changing text to RED (They will fly off and get lost with very little provocation.)

    *also agree with Robert Such but I was in a bit of a hurry to finish. Take your time.

    G Sena - 返信

    I agree. An obvious warning at or right after the removal of the trackpad screws should be added. The trackpad washers can be easily dislodged and go missing if you are not prepared to protect against that from happening.

    mmorder - 返信

    I used a clean paint brush to dust off the back of the trackpad and internals. One of the round washers flew out of the assembly and got lost. The washers are super easy to lift off the posts. BE VERY GENTLE WITH THE TRACKPAD REMOVAL AND HANDLING!

    Justin Lopez - 返信

  21. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換, ロジックボードアセンブリ: 手順 22、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換, ロジックボードアセンブリ: 手順 22、 2の画像 2
    • T3トルクスドライバーを使って、キーボードコネクタのカバーブラケットを固定している1.9 mmネジを2本外します。

    • ブラケットを外します。

    I’m just curious - why did the entire logic board have to come out in order the replace the battery? It seems like after the trackpad you could skip to battery removal. Is it to protect the board? Thanks!

    Todd Wood - 返信

    I am also wondering if it is necessary to remove the logic board. I’m just looking to remove a leaking battery from my macbook pro and safely discard of it while I get a replacement as it is releasing some chemical smell which I assume must NOT be good for one’s health.

    Jean Lescure - 返信

    Sehr geehrtes IFIXIT Team, bitte um Info warum für den Ausbau des Akkus auch das Bord ausgebaut werden muss? Danke für Ihre Antwort!

    Josef Lix - 返信

    As far as I can tell there is a part of the battery that is below the logic board. It’s the thin black stripes next to the battery pcb on either side. You can see it after the logic board is removed on step 50.

    Bhav - 返信

    Absolutely correct. No way to skip the steps.

    Cristian Caprar -

    Actually, a T4 Torx driver works perfectly.

    DonPanchito - 返信

    T3 stripped mine, should have used T4. Screw Extracting Pliers to the rescue.

    Peter Eltgroth - 返信

    Hands up everyone that’s never buying an apple product again?

    Nathan Skene - 返信

    I can confirm that the logic board removal is mandatory, because two battery connection cords are under the logic board and cannot be removed otherwise. Even if that would be possible by cutting them, it is not possible to install the new battery anyway.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

  22. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 23、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 23、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーを使って、ロジックボードからまっすぐキーボードのコネクタを引き抜いて、接続を外します。

    Again, make sure you pry from underneath, not only the metal plate. Goes off easily and then it also gets back easily when putting it back.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

  23. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 24、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 24、 2の画像 2
    • T3トルクスドライバーを使って、ディスプレイボードのフレックスケーブルのカバーを固定している3.5 mmネジを2本外します。

    • ディスプレイボードのフレックスケーブルカバーを外します。

  24. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 25、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 25、 2の画像 2
    • T3トルクスドライバーでディスプレイボードのケーブルコネクタ用のブラケットを固定している1.7 mmネジを2本外します。

    • ディスプレイボードケーブルコネクタからブラケットを取り出します。

    This appears to be a T4 not a T3

    Rich Murfitt - 返信

    They are definitely T3 ;) But not all driver kits are created equal. If your T4 works better for you, go with that.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I concur the the T3 didn’t work, T4 worked great.

    David Balogh - 返信

    't4'나사에 전해 맞습니다.

    jinwoo KIM - 返信

    The bracket of the display board connector in my case is glued. So wasnt able to remove it.

    Neil Robinson - 返信

    I also found a T3 to be too small and T4 too large. I skipped this step and was able to complete the installation by using this connector (still secured by the screws I couldn’t take out) as a hinge to carefully lift the logic board up when needed. I ended up not requiring any of the adhesive remover liquid to remove the battery; just heat from a hairdryer and elbow grease to slide the cards under each cell. Laptop working perfectly again now with this new battery.

    Martin - 返信

  25. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 26、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 26、 2の画像 2
    • ディスプレイボードのフレックスケーブルをスパッジャーでまっすぐ引き上げて、接続を外します。

    When putting it back, I did not notice any “click”, but it was definitely secured in place. Just do not overpress it expecting the “click”. It fits back easily.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

  26. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 27、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 27、 2の画像 2
    • T3トルクスドライバーを使って、各ヒンジのカバーを固定している2本のネジを外します。(合計4本)

  27. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 28、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 28、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 28、 3の画像 3
    • 両方のヒンジカバーを外します。

    My hinge covers seemed to be "aged" and cracked upon reinstall, so do not over-tighten upon reinstall. Was not detrimental overall.

    Jay - 返信

  28. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 29、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 29、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 29、 3の画像 3
    • T3トルクスドライバーを使って、Touch IDとヘッドホンジャックケーブルコネクタ用のカバーブラケットを固定している 2.4 mmネジを2本外します。

    • ブラケットを外します。

    Again, a T4 worked here, not T3.

    David Balogh - 返信

    't4'나사에 전해 맞습니다.

    jinwoo KIM - 返信

    it’s a T4, not T3. Correct this mistake.

    erwancompes - 返信

    T3 worked for me. MBP 2016.

    Gustavo Guida - 返信

    I only had the bottom screw of this pair to remove. The other is missing,

    Jonathan B - 返信

    The top screw of the cover bracket screws into a larger bottom screw. You need to keep that bottom one separate from the others as it is the only one that has a hole for the top screw.

    Bob Donovan - 返信

  29. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 30、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 30、 2の画像 2
    • ヘッドホンジャックケーブルのコネクタをロジックボードからまっすぐ引き抜いて、接続を外します。

    Be very careful with this connector, pry from the bottom of the body, not from the side of the fan, as there is the next connector under it. Just be gentle and patient. Lifting it up to about 100 degrees is safe.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

  30. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 31、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 31、 2の画像 2
    • 電源ボタンとTouch IDセンサを、ロジックボードからこのコネクタを引き上げて接続を外します。

    Pry this from the fan side (right side of the body) and be VERY careful, the cable is extremely thin. Lift it up gently under the previous cable. When putting it back, just work gently, it will snap easily into place if positioned correctly. Do not force it back.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

  31. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 32、 1の画像 1
    • T3トルクスドライバを使って、Touch Barデジタイザーコネクタ用のカバーブラケットを固定している1.3 mmネジを外します。

    Screw was stipped. I had to cut a flathead slot in the head with a Dremel cutting disk. It then came out OK.

    Nick Rhind - 返信

  32. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 33、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 33、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 33、 3の画像 3
    • ピンセットを使って、MacBook Proサイドの端に向けてブラケットをスライドします。ロジックボード上のスロット付きの固定タブを外します。

    • ブラケットを外します。

    When replacing the bracket make sure to loop it through the metal flange so it stays secure.

    Daniel Moravec - 返信

    Lift it gently on the left, 10 degrees, then slide it to the right so that it is freed from the metal strip holding it from under the logic board. It will be obvious how to put it back once you have it out, it has a small cut on the right that has to go first in the metal strip from under the board, then let the left side down.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

  33. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 34、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 34、 2の画像 2
    • ロジックボードからTouch Barデジタイザのケーブルをまっすぐ引き上げて、接続を外します。

  34. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 35、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 35、 2の画像 2
    • T3トルクスドライバを使って、Touch Barディスプレイケーブルコネクタ用のブラケットを固定している1.9 mmネジを2本外します。

    • ブラケットを外します。

    It’s T4, not T3.

    erwancompes - 返信

    Completely stripped the screws on this one - T3 seemed too small, but T4 was too big.. Any way to get replacement screws for this step?

    Benjamin Schemmel - 返信

    T4 worked better for me than the T3. I would suggest trying both lightly as the T3 might strip the screw for you. be careful here… T3 almost stripped the screw.

    Hung Nguyen - 返信

    T3 from the kit I bought here works fine for all the steps where they call for T3. So far!

    rileybk - 返信

    T3 from the ifixit kit works fine for me

    Nathan Skene - 返信

  35. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 36、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 36、 2の画像 2
    • Touch Barディスプレイケーブルのコネクタをロジックボードからまっすぐ引き上げて、接続を外します。

    100 degrees lift is safe

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

  36. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 37、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 37、 2の画像 2
    • T3トルクスドライバーを使って、Thunderboltフレックスケーブルのカバーを固定している 1.3 mmネジを4本外します。

    • 左側のネジー2本

    • 右側のネジー2本

    Amazingly, the top right screw here was not a T3 at all but a T4.

    tomputnam7 - 返信

    Top screw head seems to be stripped. Tried various other sizes to no avail.

    Les Hartzman - 返信

    Top screw stripped for me. Stuck here. Can’t progress.

    Jason Sherron - 返信

    Noticed the screws of left bracket of the thunderbolt connector didnt tighten into place (after it goes in and tightens it freely rotates). The right one did. Although both are scecured and working.

    Neil Robinson - 返信

    When reassembling you need to push down snug to make sure the thunderbolt ports work.

    Michael Stelzner - 返信

    I stripped the same screw here too, but I was able to very gently fold the connector up (being extremely careful to not damage the connector or the board

    Kris - 返信

  37. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 38、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 38、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 38、 3の画像 3
    • 左側のThunderboltフレックスケーブルを、ロジックボードからまっすぐ引き上げて接続を外します。

    • 内側の端、ファンに近い側からこじ開けてください。

    • サイド(外側)に向けてフレックスケーブルコネクタを慎重に押し上げます。ロジックボードの取り出し作業中、邪魔にならないようにします。

    Pry on the middle of the connector, not the sides, as it is pretty long. Be careful to position it correctly when putting it back and do not force it back.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

  38. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 39、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 39、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 39、 3の画像 3
    • 続けて、反対側のThunderboltフレックスケーブルのコネクタの接続を外します。

    • 慎重にフレックスケーブルコネクタを外側に押し出します。ロジックボードの取り出しの際に、引っかからないようにします。

    One speaker had some adhesive. Careful prying!

    Dylan James - 返信

  39. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 40、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 40、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 40、 3の画像 3
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、2つのスピーカーコネクタ付近の各ケーブルの下にスライドして、接続を外します。

    • スライドしたスパッジャーを慎重にひねって、両方のスピーカーの接続を外します。

    BE VERY CAREFULL WITH THE SMALLER SPEAKER CONNECTOR!

    The instructions say “TWIST”… DO NOT &&^&^$^ TWIST IT!!!

    I broke the connector off the PCB.. now the left speaker is gone forever!

    robert - 返信

    DO NOT TWIST

    The connectors are very delicate, you must use the spudger as a lever to lift the cable.

    May be the worst part of the whole procedure

    Paolo Zangheri - 返信

    Both of the connector cables were secured with adhesive for me. Had to take my time and work gently to loosen.

    Alfred Haas - 返信

    Which ended up screwing me when reinstalling. The adhesive made it really tough to slide connector in. I ended up breaking the socket connection to board. No more left speaker!!! Argh!

    Alfred Haas -

    I broke off the left speaker connector. I wonder if I can solder it back on. Anyone know??

    Michael Stelzner - 返信

    When putting these back, these seem to just be pushed down from above, rather than slotting in from the back

    Nathan Skene - 返信

    Add me to the Broken Connector club ?. No right speaker for me. Have to think how I can soldier some pins on to fix the connector, or just leave it alone so I don’t make it worse. I should have read thru the instructions and all the comments. Oh well. Shoulda wouldas

    Robert Lee - 返信

    By far the most delicate step. I suggest SLOWLY peeling away the adhesive until gone, then CAREFULLY pull the cable away from the connector.

    The connector is NOT secured well, and you WILL break it off if you don’t proceed with extreme patience in this step. The cable pulls toward the sky. I held the connector down while I gently lifted the cable.

    Daniel Moravec - 返信

    Very easy to snap back into place if you didn’t muck up the connector while removing it. Just finger press directly from the top and they snap right into place.

    Daniel Moravec - 返信

    I used tweezers to carefully hold the sides of the connector as I slowly worked the cable out. Work under the adhesive by rocking the spudger forward and backward (not twisting). As you work toward the connector, gently pull the spudger out every so often and slide back under the cable till you eventually reach the connector. If you do it this way, have steady hands and patience! A magnifying glass helps too.

    Chris Hiepler - 返信

    I heated a little bit the area and then used a spludger to keep the entire socket + connector in place, then SLOWLY and GENTLY introduced a spludger from the top under the cable to break the adhesive. Once the cable was free from the adhesive (3-5 degrees lift, not more!), then I used a spludger to keep the socket in place (it is a U shape with the bottom near the battery cell, I introduced another spludger under the cable from the opposite direction (from UP of the body if the battery is DOWN) and then pried UP the connector. It does not slide, it just pops out of the socket. Putting it back is very easy, just press it gently down and it will get in the socket with a small click sound.

    Same on the other connector.

    DO NOT rush the part where the cable is freed from the adhesive, that makes the operation much safer and simpler!

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

    You update your guide:

    Use the hairdryer to loosen the adhesive for both of the speaker connections, as this will prevent undue stress of the connector and prevent it from snapping the cable or breaking the connector.

    wayne - 返信

    I used Dental floss threaded under and around the speaker cable to cut through the adhesive (really easy) and then one spudger on the circuit board and another to lift the connector out of the socket. Took me a while to workout what to do and the comments above really helped.

    Robert Brace - 返信

    Mint flavor or just regular?

    Tim -

    哈哈哈哈,我直接把整个底座给撬下来了,这些两个扬声器彻底报废,哈哈哈哈

    DpX - 返信

    I use a blow dryer to heat it up and a thin string/floss to cut the glue. It worked well.

    Volvo Truck - 返信

  40. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 41、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 41、 2の画像 2
    • マイクケーブルコネクタのソケットを覆っているテープがあれば剥がします。

    Again I kept the entire socket in place while peeling up.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

  41. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 42、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 42、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 42、 3の画像 3
    • マイクロフォンケーブルのZIFコネクタ上の固定フラップを、ロジックボードからまっすぐ引き上げて開きます。

    I broke off the locking tab upon reinstall, so be careful. Hoping the tape helps hold things together!

    Jay - 返信

  42. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 43、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 43、 2の画像 2
    • マイクロフォンのケーブルをファン側に引っ張り、ソケットから外して接続を外します。

    • ダメージを軽減するために、できればケーブル自体ではなく、ケーブルに付いているテープを引っ張ってください。

    Be VERY careful fishing that circuit/cable back into the socket. I was using regular tweezers that have a sharp edge. It scratched the circuit under the black plastic sleeve (which is thin). That cable kills your internal mic (which Ifixit does sell a replacement for).

    Jerod Waggoner - 返信

  43. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 44、 1の画像 1
    • T5トルクスドライバを使って、アンテナケーブルの束を固定している2.9 mmネジを1本外します。

    might be easier to do 45 first if the cables are getting too much in the way of the screw

    Kris - 返信

  44. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 45、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 45、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 45、 3の画像 3
    • 3本のアンテナケーブルをソケットから引き上げて、接続を外します。

    • ピンセットもしくはスパッジャーの平面側先端を各ケーブルの下に差し込み、ソケットに近づけけるまでスライドします。そして慎重にスパッジャーをひねって、接続を外します。

    • 各ケーブルを再接続する際は、コネクタをソケット上に直接合わせて位置を揃えてから、カチッと音がするまで押し込みます。

    That is the hardest part. Can’t get one of the three plugs back into position.

    Stefan Scholtz - 返信

    Stefan is right. Mine proved impossible and I think I smashed (yes, smashed) the “sockets” they are supposed to “snap” back into (they didn’t for me). For now, they are taped down (and wifi works well), but looking into soldering these if it won’t ruin the connection.

    Jerod Waggoner - 返信

    Use microscope and fine tweezers.

    Jo Luyckx - 返信

    Do not force them. they snap on with little effort when they are aligned just right. Be patient.

    J D - 返信

    Takes quite a bit of realigntment repositioning to place these back.

    Neil Robinson - 返信

    These are VERY tricky to reconnect. ADVICE: Push down on these at and angle and then snap them in and slowly rotate them to get them to stick. It took me FOREVER to figure this out.

    Michael Stelzner - 返信

    I had no problem getting these on. The trick is to come from just above the connector and pull back on the cable a little bit at the same time. A fully stretched cable will overshoot the connector so that’s why I pulled it back. I used the black spudger to snap it in place. Everything seems fine. There definitely is a slight snap.

    Daniel Moravec - 返信

    I always worked from the cable towards the connector to pry it up, and then when putting it back, it can seem tricky, but I used to push the connector back a little (towards the cable side) before trying to gently press it down. This seems to align it better to the socket. DO NOT force it, but it needs a little force to hear the “click” if it connects properly.

    Correct positioning before pressing down is the key here and it can get very frustrating, so be patient. A microscope /optical zoom would help.

    Also, I advise to start with the longest cable, the one you disconnect first, as it is easier to maneuvre, to get a feeling of how the connector is positioned correctly. The move to the shorter cables.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

    After a frustrating 20 minutes, I tried with the longest one as suggested. Made a re-affirming click. The other two were a wresting match and just eased into place when it happened.

    This was the hardest part of the entire process for me. I'd say I probably spent an hour on these. Have patience.

    Jay -

  45. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 46、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 46、 2の画像 2
    • ロジックボードアセンブリを固定している10本のネジを外します。

    • 2.8 mm T3トルクスネジー2本

    • 2.9 mm T5 トルクスネジー5本

    • 3.7 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.9 mm T8トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.8 mm T8トルクスネジー1本

    • 再組み立ての際は、これらのネジを緩めに取り付けてください。必要に応じてボードの位置を調整して全てのコネクタの位置を揃えます。それからネジを締めます。

    I needed a T9 for the green 3.9 mm “T8” Torx screw

    Nicholas Waller - 返信

    My 3.9mm upper left screw (green) is T8 Torx, while the upper right 3.8mm (blue) screw is a T9 Torx. Note that both are not included in the kit sold by iFixit for this repair @jeffsu

    Alessandro Di Clemente - 返信

    EDIT: actually the T8 is included in the kit description but was not inside the one I got

    Alessandro Di Clemente -

    I had 4 bits in my driver set that I got. One was the T8 that others seemed to have been missing. Maybe they realized this and added to the new kits.

    Scott Shore - 返信

    No T8 in my kit. Now I have a half disassembled macbook pro I can’t finish. Sweet.

    Jamie Wilkinson - 返信

    On my A1707, the Green and Blue are T10 (although T8 and T9 do ‘fit’ but with slack).

    Shawn Marston - 返信

    Don’t confuse the 3.9 torx8 (green) with the 3.8 torx8 (blue): the green one has a tapped hole for one of the two torx3 of step 29.

    Robert Cailliau - 返信

    I have now discovered that an apple technician cross threaded one of the 2.9mm screws and lost another screw earlier -_-.

    Ben Gove - 返信

    Are these T8 screws security versions? If not, why does iFixit include a TR8 security driver in the kit?

    matt - 返信

    Reinstalling Note: I learned the hardway - Count (12 by my method) the number of connectors:
    5 on the right edge.
    4 on the left edge (I count 2 at the very top left, on under the other).
    2 on the bottom edge near the center (NOTE: if you change a keyboard you will need the keyboard ribbon connector from the old case/keyboard).
    1 cluster for antenna (3 wires & 1 ground screw)

    david - 返信

  46. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 47、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 47、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 47、 3の画像 3
    • ファンと2つのゴム製バイブレーション吸収用ストリップを剥がします。(完全に取り外さないでください。)

    • 必要に応じて、iOpenerやヒートガン、ヘアドライヤーを使って中程度の熱を当ててください。ストリップの接着剤が柔らかくなると剥がしやすくなります。

    Only needs to be lifted from the fan, not from the heat pipe, and gently. If the rubber “end connector” comes out from underneath the heap pipe, do not worry, it can be easily positioned back in place when the logic board is out! Do not spend time trying to push it back now.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

    The damping strips came off completely. May try electricians tape.

    Spot - 返信

  47. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 48、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 48、 2の画像 2
    • ロジックボードアセンブリはタイトに装着されています。左側端にスパッジャーを挿入してわずかにテコで持ち上げると、より簡単に取り出せます。

    • ロジックボードを取り外す際には、抵抗がないはずです。全てのケーブルを詳細に点検して、作業の邪魔にならないように避けておきます。ボードに引っ掛けてしまう心配がありません。

    • 左側から持ち上げて、ロジックボードを取り出します。

    A headcount for all the connectors that need to be exposed when reassembling would be really useful here. I count 15. If you have less you’ve missed something.

    Dom - 返信

    This connection is VERY easy to forget when you reassemble. If you go to startup your computer and you see the battery icon but the computer will not start with the power button, this is the connection you missed when reassembly. Drove me nuts until I figured that one out!

    deancuebas - 返信

    Absolutely DO NOT lift the board by the cables as the picture might lead you to think!

    Also, when lifting up the board, if you feel any resistence, make sure that:

    - all the screws were removed!!

    - move cables and connectors gently away in the area where you are lifting, they can easily catch the logic board and it feels immediately resisting the lift

    After lifting the left side to be able to keep it between your fingers, work toward the middle and then the right, moving the connectors and cables away to free the board for lifting.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

  48. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 49、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 49、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 49、 3の画像 3
    • ロジックボードアセンブリを再装着する際は:

    • ゴム製振動バンパーの位置を揃えます。

    • アンテナケーブルの束をロジックボードとヒートシンクの間の隙間に通します。ボードを所定の位置に装着する時は、正しい方向に並んでいるか確認してください。

    • ケーブルがボード下に挟まっていないか確認してください。特に3番目の画像のマークされた位置がクリアになっているか点検してください。

    Start from the right, position it down in place and make sure the cables are not under the board, then get the antenna cables from beneath with tweezers, then work to the left, paying attention to get the cables away so the board can go down in place.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

  49. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換, バッテリー: 手順 50、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換, バッテリー: 手順 50、 2の画像 2
    • バッテリーボードを固定しているネジを2本外します。

    • 2016-2017モデル:T5トルクスドライバーを使って、3.5 mmネジを2本外します。

    • 2018-2019モデル:P2ペンタローブドライバーを使って、3.2 mmネジを2本外します。

    On my mid 2018 15.3” i9 MBP the battery board screws were PL1

    Brian Eustis - 返信

    On my mid 2018 15.3 i9 MBP the keyboard cable is farther to the left (as shown at Step 23)! When reinstalling, make sure it is under the battery cable and its connector sticking up between the battery cable and the aluminum battery frame.

    Wolf Naegeli - 返信

    So if I’ve understood correctly, almost all the above could have been skipped if apple just made these two screws accessible? Wow, just wow

    Nathan Skene - 返信

    The screws are accessible, but the ribbon is under the board...

    Chi Wang -

    P2 bit end broke unscrewing the second of these screws… Now I have a piece of the bit stuck in the screw head and a MacBook completely disassembled…

    one.dakine.howlie - 返信

    I bought the battery + "kit" pack here and it doesn't include p2 screws. wow.... it seems like you own people don't even know what tools is needed for this? wow... just wow...

    CHIACHE LEE - 返信

  50. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 51、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 51、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 51、 3の画像 3
    • キットに含まれている液体接着剤リムーバーは、MacBook Proディスプレイ上の反射防止コーティングとプラスチックのキーボードキーにダメージを与えてしまいます。

    • ディスプレイを保護するため、作業中はディスプレイとキーボードの間にアルミフォイルシートを装着してください。

    • さらに、ペンキ用などの剥がしやすいテープをトラックパッドエリアに装着してください。オプションとして、余分な接着剤リムーバーが飛び散らないように、トラックパッドエリアの下に直接紙タオルなどを載せてください。

    I didn’t have any solution and was hesitant to simply use an Isopropyl Alcohol solution of any concentration let along subject my electronics to liquid and aluminum foil, so I simply took a card (something between a metrocard and credit card… i used a rewards card) and brute forced the adhesive while dry (making sure to direct the bulk of the force laterally and not down into the screen below and mostly wiggle back and forth instead of straight on). About 10 minutes later with a sore hand it worked just fine and avoided steps 52-62. (You may want to try the string method detailed in step 62 if stubborn and after started with card.

    ajm0824 - 返信

    The alu foil and the paint tape make it much safer, use them!

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

  51. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 52、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 52、 2の画像 2
    • 接着剤リムーバーの流れをコントロールするには、MacBook Proの裏側端(ヒンジ側)の下に本やホーム製ブロックなどを置くなどして、5cm程度傾斜させてください。

  52. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 53、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 53、 2の画像 2
    • MacBook Proの作業準備が完了です。次は、あなた自身を安全装備しましょう。

    • iFixitの接着剤リムーバーにはアセトンが含まれており、皮膚や目への低刺激性があります。

    • 接着剤リムーバーを塗布する際は、保護メガネを着用してください。(保護メガネはキットに含まれます。)

    • 保護メガネなしで、コンタクトレンズを着用しないでください。

    • 保護グローブもキットに含まれています。皮膚への刺激を心配される方は、こちらも合わせて装着してください。

  53. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 54、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 54、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 54、 3の画像 3
    • 黒いゴム製ストッパーを接着剤リムーバーから引っ張って外します。

    • アプリケーターの先端をカットする前に、ボトルキャップを緩めて外します。

    • アプリケーターの先端をカットする前に、キャップを外してボトを開封し、内側のプレッシャーを均一にします。この手順をスキップしてしまうと、アプリケーター先端をカットした際に内容物が飛び散ることがあります。ご注意ください。

    • ハサミを使ってアプリケーターのシールされた先端をカットします。

    • 先端を細くカットすると、少量のリムーバーをコントールよく塗布できます。

    • 次の作業に進む前に、ボトルキャップをひねって、しっかりと締めてください。

    Eignet sch auch Isopropyl-Alkohol 99,9%?

    Felix - 返信

  54. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 55、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 55、 2の画像 2
    • 接着剤リムーバーを2つの右側バッテリーセルの下に塗布します。まず、ファンに一番近い端に沿って滴らしていきます。

    • 多量に注入する必要はありません。この少量ボトルにはバッテリーセルに使用する量の倍以上、入っています。

    The bottle may (will!) squirt liquid. I used a bit of absorbant paper around the tip while turning the bottle upside down and putting the tip where it needs to go. Be especially careful not to drip liquid onto the speakers.

    For this type of work I always have a roll of thick toilet paper nearby: its leaves are smaller than those of kitchen paper.

    Robert Cailliau - 返信

  55. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 56、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 56、 2の画像 2
    • 2つの右側バッテリーセルの間に接着剤リムーバーを数滴注入します。バッテリー下側のセルに流れていきます。

    • 液体接着リムーバーが浸透して、接着力が弱まるまで、約2分間待機してください。それから次の作業に進みます。

  56. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 57、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 57、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar Late 2016 バッテリーの交換: 手順 57、 3の画像 3
    • 2、3分経過後、プラスチックカードのコーナーをバッテリーの下に差し込みます。一番右側のセルの下側端から作業を初めてください。

    • あまり力を入れないでください。上手くさ仕込めない場合は、さらにリムーバーを数滴滴らして、浸透するまで数分間待機してください。

    • バッテリーを変形させないようご注意ください。ダメージが入ったり、穴の開いたバッテリーは危険な化学物質を排出して、引火の恐れがあります。