はじめに
このガイドとiFixitの接着剤リムーバーを使って、安全に接着剤で固定されたバッテリーをMacBook Proから取り出します。接着剤リムーバーはバッテリーを固定している接着力を弱めるために使用されます。これにより、バッテリーの取り出し作業が容易になります。
iFixitの接着剤リムーバーは可燃性があります。 この手順に従って、通気性のよい場所で作業を行なってください。作業中、喫煙をしたり火の気のある場所で行わないでください。
ダメージのリスクを軽減するため、MacBookのバッテリーを完全に放電してから作業を始めてください。 充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーは、アクシデントで穴を開けてしまうと、危険でコントロールできない引火を起こすことがあります。バッテリーが膨張している場合は、適切な方法で処理してください。
ご注意:バッテリーの接着剤用の溶剤は、あるタイプのプラスチックにダメージを与える場合があります。接着剤リムーバーを使用する際は、指示された方法に従ってください。
必要な工具と部品
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Macを起動し、ターミナルを開きます。
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以下のコマンドをターミナルにコピー(または正確にタイプ)します。
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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[return]キーを押します。パスワードを求められたら、管理者パスワードを入力し、 [return]キーを再度押します。補足: [return]キーは ⏎ や "enter"として印字されている場合もあります。
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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P5ペンタローブドライバーを使って、次の長さのネジを、下部ケースから外します。
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4.7 mmネジー4本
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6.6 mmネジー2本
I miss a printable template to leave the screws and removed parts on it for future identification when reassembly, linked maybe with the location in the Macbook, or with the number of the step.
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吸盤ハンドルを両ネジ穴の間の下部ケースのフロント側端付近に装着します。
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吸盤ハンドルを引き上げて、下部ケースの下に小さな隙間を作ります。
Throw away this suction cup and get another. It just doesn't work! Luckily I had one that does work in my tool kit.
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下部ケースをしっかりとMacBookのフロント側に向けて引っ張り(ヒンジエリアから離します)、下部ケースを固定している最後のクリップを外します。
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一方のコーナーから引っ張り、その後で次のコーナーを引っ張ります。
this step must require a lot of force. I tried to pull it with the plastic hookie thing from the ifixit set by hooking it in one of the screw holes — the tip of the hookie thing broke.
PLEASE DON'T PULL!!!
Instead just gently push with plastic pick from the other side (where vents outputs are) towards the center... Cover will very easily open that way.
I hope iFixit will correct this step.
Came here to share exactly this.
Robert -
That's definitely how this step should be done. Thanks!
VovS -
If someone has a photo to share regarding this comment, it might be very useful. Thanks.
I used a screwdriver at 45 degrees angle and pushed the cover from the hinges, it worked really smooth. I had it close to the corners.
Yeah, definitely don't pull; if you do, wear protective gloves. Mine was stuck so strongly that I just cut my palm quite deep.
You would think ifixit would investigate why the last step required them to pull with great force to remove the bottom case lid as the solution.
It's counter-intuitive to use an excessive method to remove a part.
There's always an easier way. It's frustrating because you can't see inside.
Using the iFixit opening Tool in the hinge opening required close to no force to open.
Ah... after attempting to 'pull' this rear cover off, to no avail, I tried to coax the cover off with a nylon pry tool. MUCH better! iFixIt will do well to amend it's recommendation to 'pull' this cover in any way. All I wanted to do was a little house cleaning and exorcize the dust bunnies that took up residence in my MBP's fans. Today is much quieter. Thank you all for pointing out the obvious.
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下部ケースを外します。
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所定の位置に合わせて、スライドヒンジをディスプレイヒンジ付近のクリップをスライドしてクリップを装着位置に揃えます。カバーを押し下げて、ヒンジ側にスライドさせます。 クリップが揃ったらこれ以上スライドしません。
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クリップが完全に装着して、下部ケースが正しく配置されているようであれば、下部ケースをしっかりと押し下げて、隠れた4つのクリップを留めます。 所定の位置にカチッと音がしたら、装着されています。
If I had it all to do over, again, I would blow out the dust with compressed air at this point. During the disassembly, I kept encountering little dust bunnies, and I was very worried that one would get caught in one of the connectors when I plugged everything back up (which wouldn’t get discovered until I put it all back together and tried out all of the components).
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バッテリーに一番近いロジックボードの端で、バッテリーボードを覆っている絶縁ステッカーを剥がします。
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カバーが容易に剥がれない場合は、iOpenerやヘアドライヤーもしくはヒートガンを使って接着剤を温めて、この下に留められた接着剤を柔らかくして、再試行してください。
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バッテリーボードのデータケーブルをバッテリーボード上のソケットからスライドして外します。
Bonjour, super Tuto, petite question elle sert a quoi cette nappe , et quesqui se passe si elle est pas branché ?
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スパッジャーを使って、慎重にバッテリーパワーコネクタを持ち上げて、バッテリーの接続を外します。
Put a little bit of insulating tape over the terminal to be safe.
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T3ドライバーを使って、キーボードとトラックパッドケーブルコネクタ用のカバーブラケットを固定している1.9 mmネジを2本外します。
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ブラケットを取り出します。
I didn’t have T3 but T4 worked ;)
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T5トルクスドライバーを使って、トラックパッドアセンブリを固定している13本のネジを外します。
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5.8 mmネジー9本
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4.9 mmネジー4本
I dont have the “clicky” feedback from my trackpad anymore - please advise how to fix this
Shadi Saif - 返信
The "clicky" feedback is achieved by electromagnet on the bottom, so for anyone like me who wanted to make sure it is working before connecting battery - it will not.
(MacBook Pro 2019 15” 2 years old) There are 4 screws (2 on the left and 2 on the right, each pair held down by a black metal piece) next to the uppermost 5.8mm screws. What is the size/kind of screw are these? I’d like to purchase these missing items? Please help. A suspicious technician tried to scam me out of money. I asked for my computer back before they could charge me. I decided to do the repairs myself. When I received my laptop back and followed Ifixit instructions I found 2 screws missing and they replaced the original with an unrecognizable rusty screw on the farthest left screw hole, and the black metal pieces were missing as well.
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ディスプレイをわずかに開きますが、MacBookを裏返したままにします。トラックパッドアセンブリは離して、ディスプレイ上で水平に載せます。
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トラックパッドのリボンケーブルを筐体のスロットに慎重に通します。
do not turn the touchpad over, as there are 4+5 very thin spacers/washers, and you might lose them. only the next step warns you about this. dont be me!
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スパッジャーを使って、ロジックボードからキーボードコネクタを持ち上げて接続を外します。
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T3トルクスドライバーを使って、ディスプレイボードのフレックスケーブルを固定している3.5 mmネジを2本外します。
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ディスプレイボードのフレックスカバーを外します。
I was able to complete this procedure successfully without removing the logic board. I don’t use any liquid adhesive remover. I employ A rubber type silicon rubber-semi stiff spatula used for putting icing on cakes. Use careful leveraged prying, sliding under battery to break the adhesive seal. Also careful application of heat with a heat gun being careful to not damage the speakers. I remove all logic board screws, disconnect all service cables including USB C caps on both sides. The goal is to be able to carefully ”lift” The lower edge of logic board most proximal to the battery enough to allow the ribbon cable to clear the “ridge” that is on rear edge of the battery compartment, Thus allowing you to pull the battery back horizontally towards The front edge laptop and out. I use popsicle sticks to keep the logic board lifted. Careful not to bend the board or break it! You need about 1/8” of clearance. 99% isopropyl alcohol libera dabbed on with a Q-tip to adhesive residue will clean it off.
I had some issues using my T3 bit for most of these screws. Had to use a T4. Strange because I do not use either of those bits often, so I would assume they are still in good shape. Using a T3 felt like I was going to round out each of the screws. Wonder if anyone else experienced this same thing? I'm using the 'Pro Tech Toolkit' by iFixit.
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T3トルクスドライバーを使って、ディスプレイボードケーブルのコネクタ用ブラケットを固定している1.7 mmネジを2本外します。
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ディスプレイボードケーブルコネクタのブラケットを外します。
I also did this
Both of these screws also stripped for me. I’m not sure taking extra care would have helped: they stripped almost instantly and felt corroded. I basically continued by carefully manually turning out the right screw head using a regular, (slightly larger than T3) philips driver (and other small tools) until the head popped off the screw and one side of the bracket released. Then the bracket can be lifted and the other screw can be loosened using upward pressure. Upon replacement I basically used a small amount of high viscosity “gel” super glue (or epoxy) to reattach the right side of the bracket.
And now? It's definitely not T3. What the hell do I do now...
Hey everyone, I stripped these screws also. Buy some VamPliers (5" Minis VT-001-5). These will get those screws out. I did the same thing and they worked! Amazon has them.
Another one here with a stripped T3 screw at this section. Was the right screw for me. Got is out using a T4 bit.
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ディスプレイボードのフレックスケーブルを、ソケットから引き抜いて、ディスプレイボードから接続を外します。
Having a lot of trouble getting this connector to re seat into its slot. It just won't snap back in. I've been trying for 30 mins. It doesn't appear to be damaged, but it just won't go back in and the display isn't working.
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T3トルクスドライバーを使って、Touch IDとヘッドホンジャックケーブルコネクタ用のカバーブラケットを固定している 2.4 mmネジを2本外します。
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ブラケットを外します。
Here is a first! I did not notice this when disassembling but spent a bit of time validating I had reassembled things correctly. After 35 years of this stuff, you don’t see much new - just smaller. !
—->The 2.4 mm screw closest to the hinge screws into the logic board screw circled in green T8 (larger head)at step 47.
Try finding that screw in your bucket of spares!
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電源ボタンとTouch IDセンサを、ロジックボードからこのコネクタを引き上げて接続を外します。
This smaller connector cable of the touch ID sensor that sits underneath the power sensor connector is easy to overlook when replacing the logic board. It is small & short and can easily hide. Make sure you account for it when placing the LB in and before screwing it down.
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、2つのスピーカーコネクタ付近の各ケーブルの下にスライドして、接続を外します。
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スライドしたスパッジャーを慎重にひねって、両方のスピーカーの接続を外します。
Both had a dab of glue underneath. I used heat gun to loosen.
On this step, it helped to use the tip of sharp tweezers to open the small metal tab of the connector to the side.
After disconnecting the speaker connector, does the speaker just come out, or is it glued or screwed in place? All I need is to Replace the Right Speaker with a New one. This guide gets me to this point but doesn’t address replacing the speaker. Would like to know if it’s more complicated than that before I get started… Thanks
Would be nice to have a guide just for Speaker Replacement. Thanks
My right speaker doesn't work now because the cable and connector disconnected from the logic board. From one problem to another now... What should I do?
⚠️ DON'T DO THIS FOR THE LEFT SPEAKER!
The right speaker has a six-pin connector which is wider than the spadler. The procedure described is correct.
But the left speaker has a four-pin connector, narrower than the flat end of your spadler. If you slide it under the mat and lift, even gently, you will pull the connector off the motherboard.
And, like me, you'll get the same problem as Blake Johnson.
PS : Why six and four pins for a speaker?
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マイクケーブルコネクタのソケットを覆っているテープがあれば剥がします。
Wenn möglich das Klebeband nicht abziehen! Zwei Schritte weiter bist Du froh darum.
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マイクロフォンケーブルのZIFコネクタ上の固定フラップを、ロジックボードからまっすぐ引き上げて開きます。
During reassembly, when trying to lock the ZIF connector flap, the flap jumped out of the connector.
If this happens to you and you are lucky, as I was, maybe it is not broken. It is possible to fix it, but you will need dexterity and patience as this is a very tiny part.
I had to go and get my watchmaker eyeglass to actually see what was going on.
I also found this iFixit tutorial. Here is the link so you don't have to look for it:
Repositionnement du clapet de connecteur de nappe flexible -
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マイクロフォンのケーブルをファン側に引っ張り、ソケットから外して接続を外します。
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ダメージを軽減するために、できればケーブル自体ではなく、ケーブルに付いているテープを引っ張ってください。
At this stage, when reassembling, I did disconnect the zif connector locking flap.
If this happens to you, it is not necessarily broken. It can be fixed with very fine tweezers, a good magnifier, and a bit of patience.
I had to go and get my watchemaker magnifier to achieve this.
Here is a link to the tutorial if you need it:
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左側から持ち上げて、ロジックボードを取り出します。
To ease logic board removal (and especially later for reinstallation), I choose to gently bend each connector away from the logic board & use a little tape to hold them out of the way.
Tech Medic - 返信
Is there new adhesive for fans? I’m into deep . 50/50 shot.. I get his back together ..😩
For me, I didn’t have to remove the MOBO. To be honest i didn’t need to follow the steps that require you to remove certain plugs. It may help to remove the speakers and what not, but other than that you don’t have to remove the whole thing. Also this is from my experience. So don’t get mad at me if it doesn’t work. Goodluck!
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ゴム製振動バンパーの位置を揃えます。
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アンテナケーブルの束をロジックボードとヒートシンクの間の隙間に通します。ボードを所定の位置に装着する時は、正しい方向に並んでいるか確認してください。
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ケーブルがボード下に挟まっていないか確認してください。特に3番目の画像のマークされた位置がクリアになっているか点検してください。
Would be good to mention (at the end of instructions here) to pay special attention on reassembly that the Touch ID and power button cable does not slip under the logic board at the last moment7
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バッテリーボードを固定しているネジを2本外します。
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2016-2017モデル：T5トルクスドライバーを使って、3.5 mmネジを2本外します。
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2018-2019モデル:P2ペンタローブドライバーを使って、3.2 mmネジを2本外します。
On my mid 2018 15.3” i9 MBP the battery board screws were PL1
I second this. If your repair is time-sensitive, consider making sure you have a PL1 driver in advance. Seeing that IFixit doesn’t seem to sell them, I bought a german-made Wiha driver, hoping the quality would be high. You never want these things to strip!
On my mid 2018 15.3 i9 MBP the keyboard cable is farther to the left (as shown at Step 23)! When reinstalling, make sure it is under the battery cable and its connector sticking up between the battery cable and the aluminum battery frame.
So if I’ve understood correctly, almost all the above could have been skipped if apple just made these two screws accessible? Wow, just wow
The screws are accessible, but the ribbon is under the board...
Chi Wang -
Dear Chi Wang, which cables do we remove once the logic board has been lifted? In step 49 and further I can only see the keyboard cable (which needs not getting removed) and the battery board cable doesn't look like it is under the board...
P2 bit end broke unscrewing the second of these screws… Now I have a piece of the bit stuck in the screw head and a MacBook completely disassembled…
Same just happened to me a, but I could get the screw out with a small pair of pliers, and then remove the broken tip from it with some banging on the desk. Took me 5 min, but I wasn’t sure that it will work, so I was a bit nervous 😬
Eike R -
I bought the battery + "kit" pack here and it doesn't include p2 screws. wow.... it seems like you own people don't even know what tools is needed for this? wow... just wow...
I used P0.8 for my Mac 2018
I used P0.8 on my MacBook 2018
There is no P2 in the kit 😞
Pas de P2 dans le kit pour les 2 dernières vis, c’est inadmissible !!! Mon mac est en pièces et je ne peux pas finir !!! J’ai pourtant bien acheté le bon kit complet…
Bonjour @guillaumegerald, je suis désolée d'apprendre cela. Veuillez contacter notre service client au support@ifixit.com (pour la boutique américaine) ou au eustore@ifixit.com (pour la boutique européenne et française) en indiquant ce qui s'est passé et votre numéro de commande. Ce sera un plaisir de vous aider !
C'est possible qu'il y a un malentendu ? Je crois qu'on a seulement besoin du P2 pour les modèles 2018/2019 et il est inclut dans le kit pour ces modèles là : MacBook Pro 15" Retina (Mid 2018-2019) Battery. Par contre, il n'est pas inclut dans le kit pour les modèles plus vieux car pour ceux-ci, un Torx T5 suffirait ?
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ディスプレイを保護するため、作業中はディスプレイとキーボードの間にアルミフォイルシートを装着してください。
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さらに、ペンキ用などの剥がしやすいテープをトラックパッドエリアに装着してください。オプションとして、余分な接着剤リムーバーが飛び散らないように、トラックパッドエリアの下に直接紙タオルなどを載せてください。
I didn’t have any solution and was hesitant to simply use an Isopropyl Alcohol solution of any concentration let along subject my electronics to liquid and aluminum foil, so I simply took a card (something between a metrocard and credit card… i used a rewards card) and brute forced the adhesive while dry (making sure to direct the bulk of the force laterally and not down into the screen below and mostly wiggle back and forth instead of straight on). About 10 minutes later with a sore hand it worked just fine and avoided steps 52-62. (You may want to try the string method detailed in step 62 if stubborn and after started with card.
The alu foil and the paint tape make it much safer, use them!
Also removing battery with adhesive remover is quite dangerous (I don't like the idea of liquids around my MacBook insides) so you can do it slowly a carefully with just some plastic cards (like in step 57) putting below the batteries (I used my old credit cards to do this).
durmstrang - 返信
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接着剤リムーバーを2つの右側バッテリーセルの下に塗布します。まず、ファンに一番近い端に沿って滴らしていきます。
The bottle may (will!) squirt liquid. I used a bit of absorbant paper around the tip while turning the bottle upside down and putting the tip where it needs to go. Be especially careful not to drip liquid onto the speakers.
For this type of work I always have a roll of thick toilet paper nearby: its leaves are smaller than those of kitchen paper.
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2、3分経過後、プラスチックカードの角をバッテリーの下に差し込みます。一番右側のセルの下側端から作業を初めてください。
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カードを左右に揺らしながら、2つのバッテリーセルの下全体をスライドします。
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接着剤を完全に剥がせたら、バッテリーを持ち上げますが、MacBookから完全に取り出さないでください。
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プラスチックカードを一時的にバッテリーの下に残します。次の作業に進んだ時、接着剤が再装着するのを防ぐためです。
I had a great deal of difficulty loosening the batteries. The solvent seemed to have little effect on the adhesive strips. Despite efforts, I deformed the batteries trying to get them free.
Took me three applications of adhesive remover. Think it really is about wiggling though.
It took me about 10 minutes or so to remove all battery modules. I used the adhesive remover as per the guide and also used the card with the corner doing most of the penetration instead of the blunt end. I also would gently wiggle the battery up and down while I applied more adhesive remover to allow it a better chance of getting underneath. BTW, my adhesive strips ran left to right and not back to front on the outer batteries, so I would think it would be more ideal to put the adhesive remover down the left and right sides of the outer batteries. The inner batteries (under trackpad) adhesive strips ran front to back. Keep this in mind when using the remover to loosen them up.
Once one of the packs is loose, stick a leaf of toilet paper under it, so that it cannot stick to the body again, while you are working on the other packs.
See my comment in Step 63. Might save you time and trouble. Putty knife to remove batteries, then hot dryer to get black strips off followed by de-solv-it (or the Ifix-it remover) to get off the adhesive junk.
I wanted to comment on what worked for me.
I did put some of the remover on like they showed.
I used the credit card plastic tool to kind of get underneath it.
Then I used plastic putty knife and slowly and carefully pried the batteries off. I take no responsibility here for you, but it worked for me. Also I used 99% isopropoyl to clean the adhesive off.
Also so you are probably reading this because it is hard, put the trackpad back like the other person said before you put the batteries in. I did that and it probably saved me time.
Also as you reassemble, make you go look at every connector and there are a bunch and make sure those leads are all coming up through the logic board. I don't want to tell you I thought I was done 2x when I found a small cable at the end I missed. If you do end up in that case, you can remove some of the screws, and use the curved tweezers to kind of snake the cable up top. I know you aren't there yet, but as someone ahead of you, you'll remember this tip.
The trick here was the use of a putty knife. As someone mentioned, the adhesive strips on mine also ran the direction of the width of the computer, not from the screen side down. Thus, putting the adhesive remover where the directions said only worked on the uppermost adhesive strip. The adhesive remover did nothing to help the process...
If you're very careful not to deform the packs, you can (ON THE SIDE PACKS ONLY) use the spudger to help gently push through stubborn adhesive. DO NOT use it on the middle packs though, because there are little squarish holes in the body that you could push the spudger through and end up gouging the hell out of your display. And then you'll be back here tomorrow praying there's a tut for that :)
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接着剤リムーバーを、バッテリーセルの中央2つの上部端に沿って注入します。
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必要に応じて溶剤の漏れに注意しながら、両側に沿ってさらにリムーバーを注入します。
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数分間経過後、最初のプラスチックカードを取り出して、中央バッテリーセルの一つの上部端の下に差し込みます。
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バッテリーセルの下で左右に揺らしながら、カードをスライドして、全ての接着剤を剥がします。
Once you get the card edge under a cell, you can apply a couple of drops on top of the card and it will flow down to the working edge of the card. This will make moving the card back and forth a lot easier.
I'd consider looking at step 62 first.
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バッテリーセルの下のカードが上手くスライドできない場合、フロスやワイヤを使って、バッテリーセルの下に通し、鋸を引くように交互に左右へ引きます。
Wouldnt the wire damage the underside of the cells?
Yes, but you should never re-use a glued-down battery after removing it like this. These batteries are not designed to be re-used, and can pose a fire risk even when removed carefully.
I used dental floss + pastic card for the middle part. Avoided using the adhesive remover for the middle ones.
I didn’t have to resort to this method, but if I did I would think some fishing line would be a good option. Put some candle wax on it if it starts to bind. I use this method to remove car dash phone holders that are siliconed down to the dash.
I used this method, (while waiting for the iFixIt glue dissolver kit: was over a weekend; so too late). Works well with a strong, doubled (with slight, about 1 turn per cm, twist) 25SWG (0.5mm, 0.02inch) copper wire, wrapped around spare small screwdriver handles. Ensure that the angle of the wire is _very_ _flat_ while ‘sawing’ slowly; take your time, quite a lot of force is required to sheer through the spongy pads in places. I started with the 2 larger central cells to refine the technique.
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バッテリーを持ち上げて取り上げます。
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手袋をはめた指先もしくはピンセットを使って、接着剤の長いストリップを剥がします。
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プラスチック製ツールで残りの接着剤の塊を削ぎ取ります。イソプロピルアルコールもしくは接着剤リムーバーを使ってバッテリー下のエリアを綺麗に拭き取ります。前後ではなく、一方向のみに拭いてください。
Mine was very difficult to remove and clean. I spent forever trying to clean up the residue. However, I tried 70% isopropyl on two bays and the iFixit adhesive remover in the other two, and covered with food plastic wrap. Went to lunch and when I got back I used razor blade scraper (like used to remove stickers from glass), and it was pretty easily cleaned. Both chemicals worked just as well. Just soak and let the chemicals do the work.
I found the best way to do this was to put the hairdrier on the adhesive for a few seconds, then it just peeled off in one go. Wasted a lot of time trying to scratch them off before this.
SECOND THIS ADVICE!! Use a hairdryer it will save you a lot of time and the old adhesive will come off much, much cleaner
Yes, hairdryer and use the plastic card to push/scrape one end so you can grab it with your fingers, then peel off the adhesive strip.
Used a putty knife and removed the batteries, then hair dryer and removed the remaining black strips. Used De-Solv-it (my usual computer anti-glue) to get the gooey glue off. Went well and clean. New batteries in and reassembled.
By far the easiest way to remove the adhesive strips for me was to use tweezers. After removing the battery I had mostly large swaths of adhesive. first I used the tweezers, open, then laid it on an angle so the edge laid flat against the surface. Then scraped up side of the adhesive. I wedged up sufficient adhesive so that i could grab it angled (lengthwise not with the point) , Then i slowly pulled up the adhesive without a tear nearly every time, almost satisfying.
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バッテリーの底側にプレインストールされた接着剤が付いている場合は、裏返して、慎重にシールを剥がして、接着面を露出させます。バッテリーに接着シールが付いていない場合は、Tesa 61395のような両面接着テープを使ってバッテリーを固定します。
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バッテリーの装着位置を確認したら、定位置に取り付けます。
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バッテリーをしっかりと5−10秒間、下部ケースに押し込んで、固定させます。
In this photo, the holes that are shown in Step 51, where it states, “2018-2019 models: Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove both 3.2 mm screws,” are in a different position, so that re-securing the battery board doesn’t seem possible.
Step 51 shows the correct procedure for two different models; this step shows only one model, because the procedure here works for both. Order the correct replacement battery for your model, and you’ll have no problem.
I strongly recommend re-installing the touchpad BEFORE installing the battery. Doing that and feeding the ribbon cable through the correct slot will ensure that you don’t block the path of the cable. I did not do this and had to cut some of the framing plastic away to give me just a bit more slack to be able to reconnect the cable.
After you have the touchpad back in, do a “dry” fit of the battery to make sure you see how the battery should go in so you don’t affect the ribbon cable. Then you can peel off the adhesive protection strips to secure the battery.
After reading this comment I went straight back to steps 19/20 and reversed them before installing the battery… will update if something is notable!
The version i got had the individual adhesives stuck to what look like tempered plastic that covered the whole battery. Removing the main plastic took off all adhesives at the same time. Its usefull to have another set of hands at this stage.
I had the same problem as others with the adhesive sticking harder to the plastic cover than to the batteries themselves. Another set of hands here would indeed be useful. This was actually the hardest step of the entire process as you cannot reposition the batteries once you set them down. Luckily it seems there is at least a little wiggle room in there. Make sure the power connection lines up with its screw holes as the number one priority.
I took off the top side full cover of plastic before sticking which meant all the individual cells were flopping about - leave it on until after sticking it down (as per the next step!).
Jonathan B - 返信
Unsticking the packs is messy and dangerous since they may tear if too much force is applied, especially if swollen.
But do they need to be glued in?
The batteries should not move: in time that would damage the connections. Measuring carefully, the space between the unibody and its lower case is 8.2mm. The thinnest packs are 7.0mm: there is some room.
Instead of taking the protective sheets off the glue patches, I put bits of double-sided tape on top. The batteries are now easier to remove, but they cannot slide around.
However, after turning the machine upside up, they are in fact “hanging” from the “ceiling”! My office tape solution works, but the thinner packs might in time unstick and fall down.
It may be advisable to use the strong glue anyway, or else put some thermally conductive silicone sponge between them and the lower case.
The batteries are under the palms of your hands: they don’t get warm, leaving the protective sheets on should not have any effect. The unibody case there is 0.8mm thick.
Position the battery first with the back covers on it, to feel how it would fit in place (the battery logic board position is a good reference, and the relative distance to the two speakers). Only when you get a good feeling of the position, remove the adhesive covers and put it in place. SLOWLY, there are not many chances to pull it up again if you do it wrong!!
I pressed on the batteries for 5-10 seconds but they did not stay stuck after a few days.
tomasponce - 返信
The bettery didnt feet well and there are some part wich are a little bit left up uppon the unibody but there were no solution since the size didn t feet it is a problem ?
Looks like I have the new version too Tesa 61395 not needed?
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バッテリーを正しい位置にインストールできたら、上部から透明のプラスチックライナーを剥がします。
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新しく装着したバッテリーをキャリブレーションしてください。まず100%まで充電したら、そのままプラグに繋いだまま、さらに2時間充電状態にします。それから自動的にシャットダウンするまで放電させて、中断なく一気に100％まで充電してください。バッテリー残量が少なくなったら、作業を保存してラップトップがスリープするまでオンの状態にします。スリープ状態になったら、少なくとも5時間放置してください。それからラップトップを一気に100％まで充電します。
In order to not remove everything, I reduce the procedure in following only steps 1 to 18 (until trackpad cable is pushed away).
Then I removed the “low “ screws of step 46 in order to losen the fixation of “bottom” of the motherboard, as there is no room to remove the battery board and its ribbons).
Then I removed the two screws of the step 50 (battery board). To take off the glued battery, I used twine or thread (e.g. as shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...) but not acetone nor diluant.
Then I lifted very carefully the bottom of the motherboard both to push away the battery board and its ribbons and to reinsert the new battery board and ribbons.
Then I proceed backward to remount (step 50, step 46 then step 18 to 1).
Note: my “old” battery was so inflated that the two screws of the lower case near the trackpad were difficult to remove (sometimes, this leads to a malfunctioning…
Thank to Jeff for this overall procedure which helps me a lot.
Did they change the step numbers? You mention step 46 and 50, but now it looks like these are steps 47 and 51.
strells -
Hi Strells, in the english or french version, it seems that it is always step 50 (two screws for battery) and 46 (“lower” screws for motherboard).
jompo -
As Jompo Discovered, I also concur: LB removal not necessary. “removed the “low “ screws of step 46 in order to losen the fixation of “bottom” of the motherboard, as there is no room to remove the battery board and its ribbons)”
Be careful, I removed all screws from LB & disconnected speakers as well. .
Thanks @jompo! Great tip... no, awesome tip! Worked like a charm for me, and saved a ton of work/mess. I've never done the solvent method on any of the batteries I've replaced with the help of iFixIt's excellent guides; I use a plastic card with a 'sharpened' edge to work the batteries loose. Way, way easier than having to take all the innards out (and risk breaking something) and using the solvent.
Another tip: the best tool for removing the remaining double-sided adhesive tape is a #11 Xacto blade; it's basically a super sharp tiny 'paint scraper' shape, and removes the tape remnants beautifully.
Also, quick note to the great folks behind iFixIt: I finally wised up and am buying all my batteries from you now. I learned my lesson about buying cheap knock-offs on Amazon that had to be replaced again in a year. No more; from now on, you get all my business!
Huge thanks all around!
jiclark -
Thanks a lot jompo! Your approach worked like a charm and saved a lot of time (and me potentially breaking something :D). The bit of lifting the motherboard up to take out the battery ribbon was a bit of a fiddle but in the end was worth it. The twine and thread approach definitely is less risker as we can avoid liquid damage from the use of the adhesive remover.
wow, this was awesome. thanks whoever wrote it. very well described.
I did the same a @jumbo . So, I’d be happy to rewrite this into a much shorter and less hazard format as @jumbo suggests which works perfectly and has many fewer steps and less risk of injury to the trackpad, motherboard and connected components. I did this in about an hour on my MacBook Pro late 2016.
Did you ever rewrite this @marcemarc ? I have to do this ASAP and would love to cut out as many steps as possible.
roopesh -
I didn’t rewrite it but basically stopped at step 19, and could get the batteries out without solvents or crazy efforts. Heat, slow working with a good spudger and they pop out.
One thing really important was I found my battery data connector on the motherboard had a loose connection. I had tried three different batteries and it wat the data cable connect on the motherboard. So, that was touch to figure out but it did solve the problem. Bottom line, be careful when disconnecting or manipulating the battery data cable latch.
Marc -
Plastic liner is not releasing from the battery cells. If I hold the foam pad in place the plastic sheet rips the foam.
Newer batteries have foam protection that needs to be removed. The blue tape between the foam and the battery peels off from the battery. https://i.imgur.com/NDwhyVO.jpg
Missing one critical helpful notation and photo on the reassembly part - a checklist of all the cables and connectors that need to be checked to make sure they are not caught under the motherboard. I missed the keyboard cable and it cost me half an hour. I checked off all the ones I could remember to make sure they were clear, but just missed that one. A photo with circles and a checklist would be a big help to make sure everything is clear. Otherwise, everything was very well done.
That’s in Step 49. Easy to miss, but it’s there! I feel your pain though, I’ve made that same mistake.
I think that was the same cable I missed… at the bottom by the battery connector. I mentioned it to ifixit to add a checklist as well…. Who is responsible for editing this guide? Do you know?
robert -
That happened to me, as well. I agree that the list is implied in the instructions (working in reverse during re-assembly), but I also missed the two small cables on the upper left (headphone and touch-id cables). I had almost everything re-assembled by the time I realized my mistake and had to pull everything back apart again to fix the issue. I think that was just me being eager to finish, thinking the hard part was done. (But kudos to the authors for these instructions - my laptop battery is now working great, and everything is functional!!!)
dot1000 -
OK well, followed the instructions to the word, & pleased to say my problem has now been resolved. So very many thanks for the fix kit & cracking easy to follow instructions. The MacBookPro lives to fight another day.
in knapp 3h habe ich den Akku gewechselt gehabt, passt auf die Unterlegscheiben vom Trackpad auf… die gehen schnell verloren und das Tastaturkabel vergisst man auch mal ganz schnell. Der Guide ist eine super Hilfe gewesen und ohne den hätte ich sicher das MBP noch nicht mal aufbekommen.
that’s what I thought :D But as others mentioned it can be reduced to a nice amount of steps. but anyway: I think producers should make their products waaaay easier to restore those parts like accumulator, ram, HD or even processor cores.. long live the good old desktop pc with motherboards as big and heavy as macbook airs from nowadays ;)
Great instructions I finally got my mac book back alive! I am noticing that the battery settings do not show that it is charging even though it is plugged in…tried resetting the SMC still nothing indicating it is charging…I have no idea if it is calibrating correctly. Has been plugged in for about 2 hours but only indicates a 30% charge
This guide worked very well for me. Triple-checked all the connectors when reassembling. I was able to get everything inside the machine cleaned up very well including the fans and the fan ports. Very well done!
Got through and it worked perfectly! Then I realized the up arrow key was no longer working :(
Ended up sending it to Apple for a free keyboard replacement since it’s the notorious butterfly keyboard problem.
Hopefully it will come back with the same battery and they won’t mind I replaced it.
Very good guide, I didn’t remove the whole mother board tho (A1707) but this is not my first time replacing a battery of macbook.
I used alcohol 96% to get the glue off the battery and a old card.
The way to do it if you don’t want to take apart the whole laptop is to follow this guide to step 23 and unscrew the mother board screws then start to take out the battery and slide the cable while holding up the motherboard.
I FixIt 😎
Ho acquistato il kit completo per il mio mbp 15" touchbar 2018.
Ho seguito la guida fino al punto 18, poi il 46 Ed il 50.
Non ho usato il solvente adesivo per staccare la vecchia batteria ma mi sono aiutato con la scheda in plastica e con un filo di rame sottile che facevo passare sotto le batterie, una alla volta. Mi sono anche aiutato con un phon per far ammorbidire il nastro adesivo originale sotto le batterie.
L’unica accortezza sta nello stare attenti quando si toglie e poi si inserisce la scheda della batteria sotto la scheda madre. Io ci son riuscito senza problemi.
Ora il mbp è in carica: sto seguendo i consigli di ifixit per la calibrazione della batteria.
Comunque una guida perfetta, in ogni minimo dettaglio. Se avete pazienza, dimestichezza, seguitela ed avrete una batteria nuova in circa 1,5h di lavoro.
Uh oh I did this and now the machine won’t turn on. When I open the lid it shows the battery level for a second then it disappears. No amount of key presses seems to work. Any ideas here? I assume I messed up the keyboard or some other connection?
Ah I fixed it. Double check step 31, that was my issue. The connector for the power button is right below another one.
Same. Thanks .
For sure we need every step so its clear. One misstep and its game over. Shouldnt there be a note or step to work backwards after battery is installed?
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デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？トラブルシュートのヘルプには、アンサーコミュニティを参照してください。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？トラブルシュートのヘルプには、アンサーコミュニティを参照してください。
12 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています！ あなたも貢献してみませんか？
翻訳を始める ›
9 件のコメント
Hey, is it possible to replace battery without removing a logic board? It was possible on 2017 models.
@webcoder It’s similar to the 2017 design. I’m not sure how you’d replace the battery in either model without removing the board first, since the battery cables are routed underneath the board.
Yes, it is doable if you are very careful. I’ve done it numerous times on 2017 -2019 MBP’s. See my comment one step 24. I own a one-man Mac repair business in SF. Anything to save time. This method has been tried and successfully completed at least 10 times.
Where can I buy the battery? It is not available for iFixit?
Thanks for this great tutorial. I was thinking of following the steps up to 19 then 47 then 51, removing the battery with the motherboard by lifting it up a bit seemed risky to me. Finally I followed the procedure, except for the end where I took off the battery with the plastic cards, without solvent, just by heating it a little with a hair dryer. After installing the new battery, simply reset the SMC. As a novice, it took me 3 hours. Thank you so much !
Changement de batterie effectué. Merci pour ce super Tuto. Légèrement plus délicat que ce que je pensais et pourtant je suis super manuel. Attention à ne pas perdre les petites rondelles du trackpad, c'est le piège. J'en ai perdue une, je l'ai remonté sans, heureusement tout fonctionne parfaitement
I just finished replacing my battery but my keyboard backlight stops working and the HD FaceTime Camera. I am not sure which cable to check to get them working again. I checked all the steps three times so far. I did break one of the "antenna" cables. Not sure if related. I doubt it though.
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - 返信
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - 返信
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - 返信
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - 返信
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - 返信
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - 返信
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - 返信
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - 返信
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - 返信
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - 返信
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - 返信
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - 返信
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - 返信
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - 返信
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - 返信
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - 返信
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - 返信
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - 返信
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - 返信
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - 返信
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - 返信
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - 返信
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - 返信
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - 返信
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - 返信
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -