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はじめに

このガイドを参照しながら、iFixitバッテリー交換キットを使ってMacBook Proから接着剤で固められたバッテリーを安全に取り外します。キットの中に含まれる接着剤リムーバーはバッテリーにつけられた接着剤を溶解します。これでバッテリーを簡単に取り外せます。

ダメージのリスクを軽減するため、この作業を始めるにバッテリーを完全に放電してください。充電したリチウムポリマーバッテリーに穴を開けてしまうと、危険かつ手に負えない火事を引き起こしかねます。バッテリーが膨張している場合は、特に注意を払って適切な方法で処理してください

ご注意: リムーバーはバッテリーの接着剤を溶解します。そのため、プラスチックのスピーカーエンクロージャーに付着してしまうと、スピーカーにダメージを与えてしまいます。この修理ガイドでは、バッテリーの作業をする前に、スピーカーを取り出します。

ボトルとシリンジが分かれた旧タイプのiFixit接着剤リムーバー (販売終了)をご利用になられている場合は、 こちらの修正版インストラクションをご利用ください。

  1. MacBook Proの底ケースに固定されているP5ペンタローブネジを取り外します。
    • MacBook Proの底ケースに固定されているP5ペンタローブネジを取り外します。

    • 3.0 mmー8本

    • 2.3 mmー2本

    To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

    lantzero - 返信

    In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

    Christian Mohr -

    The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

    Sam Lionheart -

    Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

    Mike -

    will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

    drscottgreenwell - 返信

    Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

    cloughenough -

    This works for rMBP 2012 late

    iyeori -

    Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

    didierma - 返信

    If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

    iyeori - 返信

    Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

    Epifanio - 返信

    It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

    floyd - 返信

    Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

    Emilio Mejia - 返信

    I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

    Alvaro Suarez - 返信

    Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

    Jose David Valle -

    Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

    Bert0ld0 -

    Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6

    brian2burnett - 返信

    Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

    Walt Goede - 返信

    Replaced my Magsafe 2 yesterday and it works perfectly on my MBP 15” ea13. However, when I plugged in the charger I heard the startup sound twice and then I got to the login page where I realized the keyboard didn’t respond.

    So I thought I should restart the computer so I clicked ”shut down”. But the keyboard is dead. I can’t start it. I haven’t tried to use a USB-keyboard yet..

    Any ideas what may have caused this to happen and what component ”handles” the keyboard? Thanks

    /JD

    Jakob Dahlin - 返信

    Not sure if this has been listed.

    PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

    1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

    2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

    3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

    4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

    5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

    erin - 返信

    Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?

    Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…

    Michael Ferenduros - 返信

    So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.

    Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.

    The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.

    Your milage may vary, obviously.

    Michael Ferenduros -

    Success. I needed to replace the right speaker. I thought I was ready at step 22 (you are able to replace the left speaker at this point… but but the right) To replace the right I continued thru step 29 but didn’t completely remove the motherboard. I just lifted it enough to remove and replace the right speaker cable.

    Read all of the comments and solved many problems. Thanks to I-fixit, Walter Galen and all who posted comments.

    Will Brecht - 03/02/2019

    Will Brecht - 返信

    1/2

    If you're taking the shortcut (nylon, wire…and no adhesive for battery removal (you'll def need to remove the adhesive once the battery pack is removed) things to note:

    1 The adhesive may still be pretty strong. Mine was and I broke several wires trying to do the cheese cutter move down the back of the middle two batteries

    2 if you're cheese cutting through the adhesive, when you get to the base, don't go too far. I did and severed the battery cell connector… disconcerting puff of smoke.

    Ruairi Kennedy - 返信

    2/2

    3 the you tube video dude was lucky not to have his two Central batteries adhered . Mine were stuck fast.

    4 don't forget about the two small T 5 screws to the left and right of the battery head board, just below the main battery connector.

    5 the Track Pad sits behind the two central batteries. The batteries are adhered to a flat plate that protects the Track Pad which is pretty resilient. You can do the cheese wire trick without cutting through anything you shouldn't. However be careful if you're using a spudger or other tool between the two centre batteries at the top of the T. This is where the Track Pad connector (its very flat and exposed) to the motherboard.

    6 seems obvious when it's written , but you will need the adhesive remover if you are interested in removing the adhesive. It's a work out.

    Ruairi Kennedy - 返信

  2. クラッチカバー付近の端を持ち上げて、MacBook Proの底ケースを外します。
    • クラッチカバー付近の端を持ち上げて、MacBook Proの底ケースを外します。

    • 底ケースを脇に置きます。

    Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

    jamiegan835 - 返信

    I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

    Tim Peat -

    I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

    This is a "PC" habit.

    On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

    I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

    Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

    crus - 返信

    Hey,

    Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..

    Regards

    Jose David Valle -

    This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

    Andrew Fox -

    I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

    Thanks for help.

    c4rlosv8 - 返信

    There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

    Tim Peat -

    If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.

    auntialias - 返信

  3. バッテリーコネクタを覆っている注意書きラベルを剥がします。
    • バッテリーコネクタを覆っている注意書きラベルを剥がします。

    For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

    iyeori - 返信

    Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

    g000phy - 返信

    Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

    max damage -

    Why is this step necessary?

    67b5ebab - 返信

    67b5ebab Good question !

    Why is this necessary ?

    bigb19791979 - 返信

    This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

    One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

    Hope that helps!!

    ~the more you know~

    Colin Devenney - 返信

    I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.

    Achilles - 返信

    There is another connector here on mine, just to the left and up above the text on the battery sticker. It is an empty ZIPF socket on all these photos.

    Richard C - 返信

  4. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターの接続部分を基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐ引き上げます。 バッテリーケーブルを後ろ側に折り曲げ、バッテリーコネクタがアクシデントで基板に接触しないように確認してください。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターの接続部分を基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐ引き上げます。

    • バッテリーケーブルを後ろ側に折り曲げ、バッテリーコネクタがアクシデントで基板に接触しないように確認してください。

    I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

    Joel Replogle - 返信

    So no need basically to unscrew all the mac

    Bert0ld0 -

    Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

    REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

    Jer - 返信

    I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.

    Thomas Horan - 返信

    Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.

    James Suojanen - 返信

    Question, on the first image above you can read a serial and other information ... The creator of the guide could you confirm if it corresponds exactly to the Apple serial on the box? I wonder why I had the laptop in assistance to replace the GPU, and other problems were born once I returned ... to which removed the cover I saw this sticker and I immediately had doubts about it.

    Antonino Auteri - 返信

    I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:

    1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.

    2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.

    3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide

    4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath

    5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries

    (continued)

    steve - 返信

    6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.

    7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.

    8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.

    Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.

    Worked perfectly.

    Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...

    Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.

    steve - 返信

    i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.

    manu - 返信

    Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.

    One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !

    John Joslin - 返信

    I skipped steps 5-33. These steps are completely unnecessary. I used the back of a flat tweezers to separate the battery from the case.

    support64 - 返信

    so the only reason they are taking all the stuff off before the battery is because of the solvent?

    I used cards and dental floss and just took the battery out … It was a pain in the butt but i got it out with out using the solvent remover solution.

    GR Verner - 返信

    I took this whole thing apart, and broke a speaker connection because something “might” get damaged by solvent? You’re a sadistic SOB!

    Jim Disbrow - 返信

  5. スパッジャーの先端を使って、3本のAirPortアンテナケーブルをAirPortボード上のソケットから接続を真っ直ぐ引き上げます。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、3本のAirPortアンテナケーブルをAirPortボード上のソケットから接続を真っ直ぐ引き上げます。

    will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

    Oleg Babko - 返信

    Yes, this voids your warranty.

    max damage -

    If I am facing the MacBook like I'm surfing or typing, this I/O board is referring to which side of the MacBook? Left or right side? How about replacing the other side of I/O board? The other side I/O port are part of LogicBoard? If I want to replace it, need to replace the whole LogicBoard? TQ.

    Delta - 返信

    These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

    Alvin Chua - 返信

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr -

    I damaged 1/3 of these litte guys, how did you get them back together?!

    is there a way to replace the antenna?

    Fabian Schweinfurth - 返信

    unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

    Arn Custodio - 返信

    The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

    joey - 返信

    Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

    Thomas Kunjappu - 返信

    Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.

    Jer -

    After reading so many reviews on ifixit and other sites regarding the difficulty of replacing my MacBook Pro retina screen assembly, I was a bit nervous. Using this walk through made it super easy. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it!

    cabcpa - 返信

    Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!

    travismlive - 返信

    Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.

    Jer -

    @tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)

    IT’S UNNECESSARY TO DETACH THE 3 TINY CABLES FROM THE CARD, JUST DETACH THE AIRPORT CARD WITH IT’S CABLES ATTACHED BY GRABING IT FROM BOTH SIDES USING TWO FINGERS AND GENTLY SHAKE IT UNTIL IT DETACHES. THEN MOVE THE WHOLE THING A BIT ASIDE.

    THIS STEP IS ONLY NECESSARY TO MAKE WAY TO THE FAN CONNECTOR UNDERNEATH.

    There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:

    1)The rubber heat sink cover

    2 The AirPort/Camera cables

    3)The IO board cable

    All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?

    Itai -

    These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.

    ChrisMBP -

    travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!

    Jasper - 返信

    I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!

    Douglas Johnston - 返信

    Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.

    Douglas Johnston - 返信

    Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - 返信

    the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.

    Frederick Rae - 返信

    The three cables have different lengths. The longest should to the farthest pin, medium to middle, short to nearest.

    Sam Jomaa - 返信

    Also, having the right tools will make the job really easy. I used a spudger similar to the one recommended on this web site. But i had ordered a complete kit from amazon.com. I did not have any problem removing or re-attaching the pins.

    Sam Jomaa - 返信

    tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble

    Jon Ocampo - 返信

    Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.

    chuck60 - 返信

    I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!

    Achilles -

    Use leverage with tip of a spudger, it’s not that difficult to pry the cables.

    When you reassemble, use a tweezers to put the connector on the right position and push it down with a finger on the other hand.

    Grab the neck of the cable when using a tweezers.

    eskoo - 返信

    Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.

    Walt Goede - 返信

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr - 返信

    Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?

    Chapman Harrison - 返信

    Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.

    Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.

    Chapman Harrison - 返信

    I skipped to step 34. Just pushed up the speakers so that they don’t touch the body.

    Sascha Gl Richy - 返信

    I totally agree, this step is not tagged contrarely to others while it is the most dedicate !!! 1/ A warning should be added (the 31 comments should have done it…) 2/True it is possible to skip this step. Result for me : 1/3 damaged (the left one). Luckily, everything seems to work airport, bluetooth (so far, I haven’t tried Airdrop yet). Really disappointed by this guide is way below the iFixit’s standard…

    Antochny - 返信

    Can anyone help me? I would like to replace my speakers. Which steps can i skip?

    Manzil Monabber - 返信

    I have completed replacing my speakers and this step was not needed at all.

    Manzil Monabber - 返信

  6. スパッジャーの先端を使って、カメラケーブルのコネクタをファン側に押して、基板上のソケットから外します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、カメラケーブルのコネクタをファン側に押して、基板上のソケットから外します。

    • 基板に対して平行に押してください。コネクタの一方をまず押してから、反対側を押してください。ソケットには接触しないでください。

    I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

    Sergey - 返信

    Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.

    bhayes9614 -

    This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

    mayer - 返信

    This tip worked for me.

    eskoo -

    If you are removing the right fan it is not necessary to unplug the camera cable. You can slip the fan out underneath the cable.

    noahtfu - 返信

    Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.

    kramerigor - 返信

    the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?

    micheleroger - 返信

    Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.

    Jason Amri -

    Push on the little wings, from right to left.

    Julian Wood - 返信

    This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables

    Jon Ocampo - 返信

    The instruction is not clear to me at all. Frankly the comments mentioning things make me uneasy about proceeding further.

    Ben Moore - 返信

    This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?

    Ryan Brown - 返信

    It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.

    Jen Wells - 返信

    The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.

    Charles Lindauer - 返信

    The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.

    jerryl - 返信

    Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.

    Chuck Barton - 返信

    I used tweezers and the spudger. Take the point of the spudger and push on one side of the “dog ear” while supporting the other side with the closed tweezers on the cable side of the dog ear. (Could use a second spudger) work one side the move to the other repeatedly until the connection disconnects.

    This is allows You to push and support simultaneously and minimize the chance damaging the connector.

    Jonathan Dowling - 返信

  7. 右側ファン上にあるゴム製ヒートシンクカバーの下にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込みます。 スパッジャーをカバー全体にスライドしながら、接着剤を剥がします。 カバーを持ち上げて、裏返します。これで下にあるケーブルにアクセスできます。
    • 右側ファン上にあるゴム製ヒートシンクカバーの下にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込みます。

    • スパッジャーをカバー全体にスライドしながら、接着剤を剥がします。

    • カバーを持ち上げて、裏返します。これで下にあるケーブルにアクセスできます。

    Back (case) side of rubber attachment is flimsy-ish, so need to be delicate when peeling rubber back.

    cahcadden - 返信

  8. 指先を使って、AirPort/カメラケーブルをファンから引っ張ります。 ケーブルはファンに接着剤で固定されています。そのためダメージを与えないように、引っ張る際はゆっくりと丁寧に作業を進めてください。 丁寧にプラスチックのケーブルガイドからケーブルを外します。
    • 指先を使って、AirPort/カメラケーブルをファンから引っ張ります。

    • ケーブルはファンに接着剤で固定されています。そのためダメージを与えないように、引っ張る際はゆっくりと丁寧に作業を進めてください。

    • 丁寧にプラスチックのケーブルガイドからケーブルを外します。

    It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.

    PriorityMail - 返信

    Do we need to use some adhesive to paste them back?

    Aniket Suryavanshi - 返信

    I used scotch tape to temporarily hold the cables in place until I was ready to reinstall the bottom cover, but I removed the tape at that last step (didn’t want it coming loose later, and possibly obstructing a fan).

    ChrisMBP - 返信

  9. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/O ボードコネクターを基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐ引き上げます。再組み立ての際は、このコネクターの先端を先に接続してください。 同じ方法で、I/OボードコネクタをI/Oボード上のソケットから接続を外します。 MacBook ProからI/Oボードケーブルを外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/O ボードコネクターを基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐ引き上げます。再組み立ての際は、このコネクターの先端を先に接続してください。

    • 同じ方法で、I/OボードコネクタをI/Oボード上のソケットから接続を外します。

    • MacBook ProからI/Oボードケーブルを外します。

    Note that the Mac has been rotated 180º between steps 8 & 9

    peteyx - 返信

    When reinstalling the io board cable make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all.

    bitmat23 - 返信

    Sockets are ZIF with releasing levers on the top. If you pull up on the top padding, you will reveal silver lever handels facing the rear of the machine. Pry up on the LEVER to release the pressure, then pull the lever straight up to release the connector from the socket. DO NOT pry under the edge of the connector to remove these or you may damage the ZIF socket. They may have changed these connectors between models, otherwise I don’t know how this was overlooked in the guide.

    hybrid - 返信

  10. 基板上のAirPortカードに固定された2.9 mm T5トルクスネジを1本外します。
    • 基板上のAirPortカードに固定された2.9 mm T5トルクスネジを1本外します。

  11. MacBook ProからAirPortカードを取り出して、AirPortの薄くなっている端を掴んで、基板と平行に引っ張ります。 MacBook ProからAirPortカードを取り出して、AirPortの薄くなっている端を掴んで、基板と平行に引っ張ります。
    • MacBook ProからAirPortカードを取り出して、AirPortの薄くなっている端を掴んで、基板と平行に引っ張ります。

    As others have mentioned, it's not necessary to remove the Airport antenna cables. Leave the cables attached and remove the Airport card.

    Swing the card and the attached cables across the fan.

    stvn chng - 返信

    You may lift a little like few degrees then pull parallel when removing.

    eskoo - 返信

    There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.

    Tristan Harward - 返信

    Yes, lift about 5-10 degrees first, then pull out. If you do not release the adhesive, it may be stuck in place and you could damage the card trying to pull it out.

    hybrid - 返信

  12. スパッジャーの先端を使って、右側ファンのリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げて裏返します。 固定フラップの蝶番部分をこじ開けてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、右側ファンのリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げて裏返します。

    • 固定フラップの蝶番部分をこじ開けてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。

    • 右側ファンケーブルの下に差し込んだプラスチック製の開口ツールをケーブル上部からスライドして、基板から解放します。

    • ケーブルを外す際はご注意ください。基板に多量の接着剤で固定されています。

    I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

    Alvin Chua - 返信

    Easier to do while removing fan.

    mayer - 返信

    The second picture and illustration are not clear enough. The text should say "pry underneath the cable" as I almost broke the fan cable following instruction.

    Kitipong Mork - 返信

    ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.

    Don Steele - 返信

    I don’t know why, but I could pull the connector out & in without flipping up the flap. And fans are working flawlessly.

    eskoo - 返信

    The pictures were confusing to me so let me add some more context. There is a ZIF socket (Zero insertion force) being addressed in the first picture. This socket has a black top that is currently closed down on the socket. Using your tool you need to lift this flap up to release the wire underneath (This release happens in the second step). Hence only pull up on the black flap enough to make it go from horizontal to vertical (Swing flap). Neither picture shows it in the up position. Step 2, Picture 2, Then gliding your flat spudger, you goal is to lift the wire that was in the ZIF socket out by lightly lifting up on both the wire and the rubber cushion on top of it. Make sure you lift both. You are successful when both are lifted up and out and facing vertical instead of horizontal.

    Frank D - 返信

    Can anyone advise what to do if the ZIF socket pulls up from the logic board? I was gentle with it, but it pulled up anyway. The fan and ribbon are fine, but I’m worried this will require an expensive logic board repair.

    Jaysmi - 返信

    To really see which part of the ZIF socket has to be lifted up you should compare the pictures of step 10 and of step 12, preferably in its original size.

    Then you can see that the inner part of the ZIF has to be moved up, away from the batteries.

    Stephan Yaraghchi - 返信

  13. 基板に右側ファンを固定している次のネジを外します。
    • 基板に右側ファンを固定している次のネジを外します。

    • 4.4 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.9 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 5.0 mm T5トルクスネジ(2 mmカラー)ー1本

  14. MacBook Proから右側ファンを持ち上げて取り出します。
    • MacBook Proから右側ファンを持ち上げて取り出します。

    • ファンを再装着する際は、3本のファン用ネジを装着した後にファンリボンケーブルを接続するよりも先にファンを固定してからケーブルを接続する方が簡単です。

  15. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、左側ファンからゴム製ヒートシンクのカバーを持ち上げます。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、左側ファンからゴム製ヒートシンクのカバーを持ち上げます。

    This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?

    Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?

    RT0 - 返信

    I had the same experience as you this was super easy to remove as well.

    spearson - 返信

    Glue was long gone. It just flops over by itself.

    Jer - 返信

    I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover. So verify that you insert rubber clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - 返信

  16. 左側ファンを基板に固定している次のネジを外します。
    • 左側ファンを基板に固定している次のネジを外します。

    • 4.4 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 5.0 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.9 mm T5ワイドヘッドトルクスネジー1本

    check if screw marking here is right

    Oleg - 返信

    One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?

    best regards,

    Seth

    sethroot - 返信

    “Wide Head” just refers to the head of the screw being a bit wider than the others. It shouldn’t affect the size of the tool needed. That said, I also was unable to remove this screw with a T5. The screw on mine looked corroded. I ended up using Vampliers (great tool).

    maccentric -

    seems like T5 is the wrong screwdriver for the "3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw"

    ryanbraganza - 返信

    T4 seems to have worked for me

    jonathaniscarroll - 返信

    i tried unscrewing the screw with a yellow circle around it but it is not unscrewing i think it is stripped

    Habib Sy - 返信

  17. スパッジャーの先端を使って、左側リボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。 蝶番の固定フラップを持ち上げてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。 プラスチック製の開口ツールを差し込んだケーブルの上部から左側ファンケーブルの下までスライドして、基板から解放します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、左側リボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。

    • 蝶番の固定フラップを持ち上げてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。

    • プラスチック製の開口ツールを差し込んだケーブルの上部から左側ファンケーブルの下までスライドして、基板から解放します。

    • ケーブルを外す際はご注意ください。ケーブルは頑丈な接着剤によって基板に固定されています。必要に応じてiOpenerやドライヤーを使ってケーブルに留められた接着剤を柔らかくするため、ケーブルを温めてください。取り外す作業がスムーズにいきます。

    • デバイスから左側ファンを持ち上げて取り出します。

    • ファンを再装着する際は、ファンのネジを3本取り付けた後に行うよりも、ファンを固定の場所に置いてファン用のリボンケーブルを接続する方法が簡単です。

    a question out of curiosity is it possible to remove that left fan completely and use and external fan instead of it?

    and what is that fan for? is it for CPU or VGA? i noticed someone was referring to that fan as vga's fan.

    Albert Einstein - 返信

    I can't imagine any scenario why one might want to do that Einstein. An external fan on a laptop? Seriously?

    maccentric - 返信

    I would say that my cable was permanently adhered, or at least requires chemistry to remove the adhesive. Definitely check if fan parts are in stock before attempting to remove the cable that doesn't seem to be coming loose from the motherboard.

    orders - 返信

    Couldn’t manage to “flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.”, in fact think I may may broken a piece off. In the end just pulled out the cable by sliding it down and out (maybe I did manage to loosen it after all). Cable didn’t appear to be glued down thankfully.

    Chris McKay - 返信

    Holes on the new fan did not exactly match up and ribbon cable has more tension as a result -

    I had to cut the loop on the mount for the 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw. Not ideal.

    Scott Evans - 返信

  18. 基板にSSDを固定している3.1 mm T5トルクスネジを1本外します。
    • 基板にSSDを固定している3.1 mm T5トルクスネジを1本外します。

    When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.

    So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.

    Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?

    Lorte Messenger - 返信

    I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.

    Dave Miller -

    The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.

    The screw for the SSD is Torx.

    Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.

    (However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)

    jkgarrett17 -

    For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?

    Elaine - 返信

    The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*

    Ryan Tucker -

    I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.

    Dave Miller - 返信

    OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).

    Dave Miller -

    It's definitely a T5, just takes more control vs only strength. I went left and right in small increments while pushing down to let the screwdriver dig in before slowly being able to loosen it up.

    Toan Tran - 返信

    Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.

    (The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)

    jkgarrett17 - 返信

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  20. ゆっくりと一番右側のSSDを持ち上げて、基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐスライドして外します。 ゆっくりと一番右側のSSDを持ち上げて、基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐスライドして外します。
    • ゆっくりと一番右側のSSDを持ち上げて、基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐスライドして外します。

  21. スパッジャーの先端を使ってI/Oボードのデータケーブルのロックを持ち上げて外し、バッテリー側に回します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/Oボードデータのケーブルをまっすぐ基板上のソケットからスライドして外します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使ってI/Oボードのデータケーブルのロックを持ち上げて外し、バッテリー側に回します。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/Oボードデータのケーブルをまっすぐ基板上のソケットからスライドして外します。

    • ソケットは大変デリケートのため、I/Oボードのデータケーブルを上向きに引っ張らないでください。基板に平行してケーブルを引っ張ります。

    This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better

    Robert Jan Lebbink - 返信

    I helped me to use the pliers both to get underneath the canble lock and then push on the wings of the cable.

    Calvin Truong - 返信

  22. 基板にI/Oボードを固定している3.1 mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。 ゆっくりとI/Oボードを持ち上げて底ケースから取り出します。
    • 基板にI/Oボードを固定している3.1 mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。

    • ゆっくりとI/Oボードを持ち上げて底ケースから取り出します。

    This did not want to come out. The bottom was really wedged in there good. I had to pry up the bottom part with a screw driver. The funny thing was it was really easy to put back in. *shrug*

    Jer - 返信

    it actually has an extra screw that needs to be removed.

    Reid Rankin - 返信

    Thank you. Removing the screw by the heat sink really helped get this board removed.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    It helped me to push the IO board further into the casing and then lifting.

    Calvin Truong - 返信

    i/o cable was much easier to remove after freeing the i/o board & slightly lifting it. SK

    Stefan Kirchanski - 返信

  23. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットからヘッドホンジャックのコネクターを持ち上げて、接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットからヘッドホンジャックのコネクターを持ち上げて、接続を外します。

    After connect the cable aux is not working

    deepak selvanathan - 返信

    Strange, I'm working on the same model, and it doesn't have a flex here. It's soldered.

    Ross Karnes - 返信

    Same as Ross. No cable to pry. It’s soldered. But looks like I can continue on anyway

    Cameron Melvin - 返信

  24. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、左側スピーカーのコネクターを基板上のソケットから持ち上げて接続を外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、右側スピーカーのコネクタを基板上のソケットから持ち上げて接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、左側スピーカーのコネクターを基板上のソケットから持ち上げて接続を外します。

    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、右側スピーカーのコネクタを基板上のソケットから持ち上げて接続を外します。

    • ケーブルヘッドを持ち上げてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。ソケットを持ち上げてしまうと、基板から外れてしまう恐れがあります。

    This step could use an image showing the cable lock in the "up" position, releasing the connector. It is hard to see how it works in the "down" position. I think this is the actual connector - there are images in the PDF linked here:

    http://www.ddknet.co.jp/English/products...

    My MBP has an intermittent connection in this keyboard cable. It would be good to know where to buy a replacement!

    Rich - 返信

    Pry the speaker connectors *up and out*. Doing it from the cable's sides, next to connectors, is easier.

    Kitipong Mork - 返信

    Not sure what happened, but when I put it back together, i barely had enough room to plug this back in. It’s like the cable shrunk. I had to really yank on it to get it to fit.

    Jer - 返信

    Adhesive under the left cable made it hard for me to remove it. The right one came out very easy.

    Calvin Truong - 返信

    i broke off all the connectors to the logic board any fix for this ?

    Steven Rai - 返信

  25. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、キーボードリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。 蝶番の固定フラップのみこじ開けてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、キーボードリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。

    • 蝶番の固定フラップのみこじ開けてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ソケットからキーボードのロボンケーブルを引き上げて外します。

    On Re-assembly, I found this to be the hardest part. I resorted to using the provided tweezers and taking turns left and right, working it back into its ZIF socket. If someone knows a better way, please share.

    Fred Anderson - 返信

    I just got done with this and my plus/equal, tilde/apostraphe, brackets/braces and volume up keys are not working. Wondering is this isn't seated correctly or if i damaged something. :-(

    sturmjonny - 返信

    This is one of the fussier flex cables to reconnect. I'd say it's worth opening it back up and reseating it. Only takes a few minutes—just disconnect the battery and then come straight to this step. Make sure the cable contacts are clean (wipe them with a little isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth), and that the connector is clear of any dirt/debris (give it a good blast or two with some compressed air). Make sure the cable is inserted perfectly flat and straight into the connector (this is the hardest part, just takes patience and a little dexterity). Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is really a pain to pull out. You sorta have to lift it up and out - I was worried I was going to flex the cable and break it too much.

    Jer - 返信

    Use the retaining flap to pull the ribbon cable back into the socket.

    Andrew Dunning - 返信

    This keyboard ribbon is so thin. It is like thinner than X-ray film. I was afraid to remove the ribbon from the socket. So, I skipped this step and follow other steps till ‘Step 30’. I didn't remove the logic board as shown in Step 31 and 32. Instead, I removed DC board screws and then DC board from the hole. The cable from the DC board connected at bottom corner of the logic board. I hold the MacBook Pro vertically and lift the logic board slightly and removed the DC board ‘plug’ from the socket. Next, I plugged in the new DC board and followed this procedure in reverse order ( from Step 30 to Step 1). Everything went fine. Important Note: When lifting logic board, please do it carefully and very slowly. Don’t be hurry and don’t break anything. Use magnifying glass and Magnifier in your iPhone to see the tiny parts big and clearly, before removing them.

    Jay Rajamanickam - 返信

  26. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットからトラックパッドのリボンケーブルのコネクターを引き上げて外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットからトラックパッドのリボンケーブルのコネクターを引き上げて外します。

  27. 基板上のソケットからキーボードのバックライトコネクターを持ち上げて接続を外します。
    • 基板上のソケットからキーボードのバックライトコネクターを持ち上げて接続を外します。

  28. スパッジャーの先端や指の爪を使ってマイクリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを引き上げて、接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの先端や指の爪を使ってマイクリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを引き上げて、接続を外します。

    • 蝶番の固定フラップを引き上げてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。

    • マイクリボンケーブルをソケットから外します。

    A small elastic popped out when removing the cable. Glad I wore the protective glasses.

    Louie - 返信

    Meaning, pull the ribbon cable out horizontally. And be aware that the copper wiring is on the underside of the cable and the topside is just black plastic, so don’t freak out and think you ripped something pulling it out.

    Chapman Harrison - 返信

  29. スパッジャーの先端を使って、ディスプレイデータケーブルのロックを引き上げて、デバイスのDC-In側に向けて回します。 ディスプレイのデーターケーブルを基板上のソケットからまっすぐ引き上げます。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ディスプレイデータケーブルのロックを引き上げて、デバイスのDC-In側に向けて回します。

    • ディスプレイのデーターケーブルを基板上のソケットからまっすぐ引き上げます。

    • ソケットはとても壊れやすい為、ディスプレイデーターケーブルを引き上げないでください。ケーブルを基板と平行に引っ張ります。

    I'd recommend using the pliers.

    Calvin Truong - 返信

  30. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、MagSafe 2コネクタ付近の盛り上がったネジ頭上のゴム製のネジキャップを丁寧に外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、MagSafe 2コネクタ付近の盛り上がったネジ頭上のゴム製のネジキャップを丁寧に外します。

  31. 上部ケースに基板を固定している次の6本のネジを外します。
    • 上部ケースに基板を固定している次の6本のネジを外します。

    • 2.6 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 5.8 mm T5トルクスネジー2本

    • 3.8 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 5.2 mmナベ頭組込T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.5 mm シルバーT5トルクスネジー1本

    While you're doing this, unplug the right speaker before you lift the logic board. That is the only step missing in the guide.

    anthony - 返信

    anthony: Unplugging the right speaker connector was done in step 23.

    Kitipong Mork - 返信

    when following on the contrary, its good to check all the ribbons and cables to make sure some are not stuck under board prior to screwing down.

    Robert Gregory - 返信

    green indicator: raised head screw is the one you removed the rubber cap from in prior step. (I removed – and then replaced — a different screw in this step. Revisited it with more daylight and saw my error.)

    auntialias - 返信

  32. バッテリーに一番近い側から本体デバイスの上部に向けて基板を持ち上げます。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、MagSafe 2コネクタを基板下側上のソケットからゆっくりと押して外します。 基板を再装着する際は、赤の印でマークされたケーブルの位置を確認してください。基板ときちんと接続されているか確認します。
    • バッテリーに一番近い側から本体デバイスの上部に向けて基板を持ち上げます。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、MagSafe 2コネクタを基板下側上のソケットからゆっくりと押して外します。

    • 基板を再装着する際は、赤の印でマークされたケーブルの位置を確認してください。基板ときちんと接続されているか確認します。

    • 上から時計回りに:キーボード、トラックパッド、右側スピーカー、キーボードバックライト、ディスプレイ、マイク、ヘッドフォンジャック、左側スピーカー

    In bullet #1 I lifted logic board from left side (nearest battery), tilted toward right side (port side) and pulled to to the left a bit to get ports out of chassis cutouts.

    Then I followed bullet #2.

    Kitipong Mork - 返信

    Going revese order, remember about mic connector and backlit connector. Those nasty small tails are easy to omit. Then you will have to repeat disassembly to get them from under mainboard.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - 返信

    Agreed with Radoslaw's comment. It might even be nice to have a list of small cables to watch for during logic board reassembly.

    talarohk - 返信

    @radioerewan @talarohk - I think that's a good idea. I went ahead and added a photo showing all the cable locations to check—hopefully it will save someone some trouble! Thanks for your comments.

    Jeff Suovanen - 返信

    Yes heed everyone’s warning. I had to remove the entire logic board TWICE because i forgot to pull out the antennae and the backlit keyboard plug.

    Jer - 返信

    Yes, be very careful before screwing things down. I also forgot the backlight and the display cables. Had the cover for the display cable out, but not the actual cable. I was able to use tweezers to fish the cables out after removing the screws but without removing the whole board.

    E Carlton Hays Jr - 返信

    My logic board was stuck under the battery PCB, on the top right side of the battery PCB, when viewed like in the first picture.

    I suggest removing the two screws from step 35 holding the PCB down for a little more wiggle room before attempting to remove the logic board.

    Tom - 返信

    I had to go back cause I couldn’t figure out where the logic board connector into (under the board). Funny enough i assembled it and it worked though the night and didn’t come on again. Had to go through the whole process b4 i figured it out. Definitely a good idea to at least breeze through all the images

    Yemi Dalley - 返信

    In link MacBook Pro 15'' Retina Display Mid 2015のロジックボードの交換 step 34 the second picture exit the procedure install ZIP

    raul - 返信

    reassembly: so far the hardest step. After getting all the connectors above board, I still couldn’t quite line up the screw holes. It finally turned out that the board was being prevented from being in its full leftward position because the edge of a flange at the top of the USB port was directly positioned against the edge of a flange on the case. I used my thumbnail to press down on the port’s flange so that it slid under the case flange, allowing the board to shift left another half-millimeter and make everything finally line up.

    Chapman Harrison - 返信

    I Just removed the whole power connector with the main board, seemed a little easier. But that’s just me. Good manual thou.

    Timothy de Wal - 返信

    Had a lot of trouble getting the power cable out. Would definitly recomend this.

    Calvin Truong -

    100% take the power connector out. This guide is amazing but that is something I would change in it. Also I would do step 35 before attempting to remove the logic board. Unsure if there are other implications of this approach.

    kevinhayes656 -

    Am I completely stupid? ...! When I wanted to remove the mainboard, it was still connected to a plug. I searched, but found no indication about this plug. So I had to try to figure out how this plug works. I started trying, which finally tore the console off the board: -o ...: .- ( It is a small plug to the right of the power supply - Pic. #3 top right!!. Comes below the battery. Note, this must be pushed backwards, but may have a lock. What can I do now? If someone has a tip that I do not have to change my motherboard, I am very, very grateful!

    privat - 返信

    I had the same issue where that cable was still connected. I noticed that it was the same type as another one where it needed to be lifted vertically so I did that using the tweesers.

    Jonathan McCaffrey -

    Definitely unscrew and remove the two screws that hold the MagSafe 2 connector then remove the connector with the board.

    The connector that’s not mentioned in the dissasembly manual is the right hand loudspeaker connector. It pulls up, just the same way as the left hand loudspeaker connector does. No locking tab.

    Other than that it’s a brilliant dissasembly instruction manual, well done.

    I took the logic board out, re-soldered U8900 (well known issue with these boards) and put it back together following the manual in reveres. All works fine now.

    One thing that I did which helped. I printed the manual off, then stuck the screws in every case to the page next to where each screw was described using cellotape. So every screw went back exactly where it came from.

    Steve Hills - 返信

  33. MacBook Proから基板アセンブリを取り出します。
    • MacBook Proから基板アセンブリを取り出します。

  34. 上部ケースと左側スピーカーを固定している次の3本のネジを外します。 5.6 mm T5 トルクスネジー1本
    • 上部ケースと左側スピーカーを固定している次の3本のネジを外します。

    • 5.6 mm T5 トルクスネジー1本

    • 6.9 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 2.6 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 上部ケースから左側スピーカーを持ち上げて、側に寄せておきます。

    On my MBP there was an adhesive holding the speakers down. So, "lifting" was not exactly accurate.

    Fred Anderson - 返信

    Yeah there’s a tiny smidgen of glue around the speaker itself. I just slowly put force on it and it ripped off quite easily.

    Jer - 返信

    I have A1398 15 inch , need to replace or fixed left speaker but i can’t find One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw(yellow one), any idea what to do here?

    Biswajit Patra - 返信

    can you get too the speaker without taking the logic board first

    gianguyen1991 - 返信

    How it possible to get speaker out if system without taking the logic board first?

    Biswajit Patra -

  35. 上部ケースと右側スピーカーを固定している次の3本のネジを外します。 5.6 mm T5 トルクスネジー1本
    • 上部ケースと右側スピーカーを固定している次の3本のネジを外します。

    • 5.6 mm T5 トルクスネジー1本

    • 6.9 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 2.6 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • MacBook Proから右側スピーカーを取り出します。

    My speaker wire was wedged under the edge of the battery. I proceeded to step 35 and removed the two battery screws. This freed up the cable.

    Fred Anderson - 返信

    Mine was stuck too, and I did what Fred did and waited to step 35 to try and remove the cable. It turned out not to be wedged under anything, but just glued in place.

    Chapman Harrison - 返信

  36. バッテリーボードに固定された2本の3.9 mm T5トルクスネジを外します。
    • バッテリーボードに固定された2本の3.9 mm T5トルクスネジを外します。

    When rebuilding, be sure not to pin the square trackpad ribbon cable connector under the wide keyboard ribbon cable. It should be over the keyboard ribbon.

    Chapman Harrison - 返信

  37. キットに含まれている液体状の接着剤リムーバーはMacBook Proディスプレイの反射防止用コートに影響を与えることがあります。
    • キットに含まれている液体状の接着剤リムーバーはMacBook Proディスプレイの反射防止用コートに影響を与えることがあります。

    • ディスプレイを保護するために、ディスプレイとキーボードの間にアルミホイルシートを付けてください。作業中被せたままにします。

    I was wondering how it could leak. I suppose you could spill it, or flood the battery space with it and it leaks through the trackpad.

    Jer - 返信

    You’re correct. On most models, it’s unlikely to leak unless you use way too much. The foil is a “better-safe-than-sorry” precaution.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    At this point removing the screen is a matter of minutes so to be safe I just removed the display assembly all together.

    Tom - 返信

  38. MacBook Proの正面を自分に向け、安定したフォーム製ブロックや本を衝立に使って、デバイス右側を持ち上げて下に置きます。 次の手順では、バッテリーの右端(外側)に液体の接着剤リムーバーを塗布します。MacBook Proの右側を持ち上げて固定すれば、接着リムーバーはバッテリー底に流れ込みます。
    • MacBook Proの正面を自分に向け、安定したフォーム製ブロックや本を衝立に使って、デバイス右側を持ち上げて下に置きます。

    • 次の手順では、バッテリーの右端(外側)に液体の接着剤リムーバーを塗布します。MacBook Proの右側を持ち上げて固定すれば、接着リムーバーはバッテリー底に流れ込みます。

  39. ここまで来たらあなたのMacBook Proは準備万端です、次はあなたの番です。 iFixit接着剤リムーバーにはアセトンが含まれており、マイルドスキンや目には刺激的です。
    • ここまで来たらあなたのMacBook Proは準備万端です、次はあなたの番です。

    • iFixit接着剤リムーバーにはアセトンが含まれており、マイルドスキンや目には刺激的です。

    • 接着剤リムーバーを手にして塗る時にはゴーグルを装着してください。(ゴーグルはキットに含まれています。)

    • ゴーグルなしでコンタクトレンズの着用はやめてください。

    • 保護グローブもキットの中に含まれています。皮膚の荒れを気にするなら、今すぐグロープを装着してください。

    Acetone is not the greatest thing but it’s in common solvents. For example, it’s in nail polish remover. It’s a good idea to do this in a well ventilated area.

    I like how iFixit decides to dye the acetone blue….. it's normally clear.

    Jer - 返信

  40. 接着剤リムーバーの容器から黒いゴム製のキャップを引き抜きます。 先端をカットする前に、ボトルキャップをひねって外すか、緩めてください。 これによりボトルが開封され、アプリケーターチップをカットする前に、圧力が均一になります。 この手順を省略すると、チップをカットした時に、接着剤リムーバーが突然飛び出す可能性がありますのでご注意ください。
    • 接着剤リムーバーの容器から黒いゴム製のキャップを引き抜きます。

    • 先端をカットする前に、ボトルキャップをひねって外すか、緩めてください。

    • これによりボトルが開封され、アプリケーターチップをカットする前に、圧力が均一になります。 この手順を省略すると、チップをカットした時に、接着剤リムーバーが突然飛び出す可能性がありますのでご注意ください。

    • ハサミを使って、シールされた先端をカットします。

    • できるだけ先端近くをカットしてください。接着剤リムーバーを注入する際に少量でコントロールしやすくなります。

    • 次の手順に移る前に、キャップを必ずしっかりと装着してください。

  41. 高く持ち上げた右側のバッテリー外側縁に沿って、少量の接着剤リムーバー(約1ml)を数滴、注入します。 わずかな量で大丈夫です。この小さなボトルには搭載された全バッテリーセルを取り出すために必要なリムーバー量の倍が入っています。
    • 高く持ち上げた右側のバッテリー外側縁に沿って、少量の接着剤リムーバー(約1ml)を数滴、注入します。

    • わずかな量で大丈夫です。この小さなボトルには搭載された全バッテリーセルを取り出すために必要なリムーバー量の倍が入っています。

    • 次の段階に進む前に、液体の接着剤リムーバーがバッテリーの下に浸透するまで、2-3分待ちます。

    You don’t need more than 1mil. It will use capillary action and go along the entire side.

    IMHO, you can start wedging about 20 seconds. The acetone dissolves the adhesive almost immediately, and acetone dries up really fast.

    Jer - 返信

  42. 一枚のプラスチックカードの一角を外側のバッテリーの下から差し込み、スライドしてください。 ゆっくりとカードを捻りながらスライドすると、バッテリーとMacBook Proのケースの間に隙間を作りやすくなります。 カードをさらに奥までバッテリー下にスライドして、バッテリーをMacBook Proの上部ケースに固定している接着剤から解放します。
    • 一枚のプラスチックカードの一角を外側のバッテリーの下から差し込み、スライドしてください。

    • ゆっくりとカードを捻りながらスライドすると、バッテリーとMacBook Proのケースの間に隙間を作りやすくなります。

    • カードをさらに奥までバッテリー下にスライドして、バッテリーをMacBook Proの上部ケースに固定している接着剤から解放します。

  43. バッテリーを持ち上げて、MacBook Proの上部ケースから解放しますが、まだ完全に取り出さないでください。 次の作業でバッテリーがケースに再装着しないよう、プラスチックカードをそのままバッテリーの下に置いてください。
    • バッテリーを持ち上げて、MacBook Proの上部ケースから解放しますが、まだ完全に取り出さないでください。

    • 次の作業でバッテリーがケースに再装着しないよう、プラスチックカードをそのままバッテリーの下に置いてください。

  44. 数滴の接着剤リムーバーを次の右端を上げたバッテリーの縁に沿って均等に塗布します。 次の段階に進む前に、液体の接着剤リムーバーがバッテリー下に浸透するまで、2-3分待ってください。
    • 数滴の接着剤リムーバーを次の右端を上げたバッテリーの縁に沿って均等に塗布します。

    • 次の段階に進む前に、液体の接着剤リムーバーがバッテリー下に浸透するまで、2-3分待ってください。

    You don’t really need to wait 2 to 3 minutes. It starts dissolving right away. In fact if you wait too long, it will dry up again.

    Jer - 返信

  45. 2番目のバッテリー下にプラスチックカードの一角を差し込みます。 カードを2番目のバッテリー下に差し込み、端から端までスライドして、底の接着剤を分離させます。 次の手順に進む間に、溶解した接着剤に再装着するのを防ぐため、プラスチックカードを2つのバッテリーの下に差し込んだままにします。
    • 2番目のバッテリー下にプラスチックカードの一角を差し込みます。

    • カードを2番目のバッテリー下に差し込み、端から端までスライドして、底の接着剤を分離させます。

    • 次の手順に進む間に、溶解した接着剤に再装着するのを防ぐため、プラスチックカードを2つのバッテリーの下に差し込んだままにします。

  46. 高く持ち上げる位置をスイッチします。本やフォーム製ブロックなどをMacBook Pro左側先端の下に置いてください。 前の手順を繰り返して、持ち上げた左側の二つのバッテリーも分離させます。 外側のバッテリー左側の端に接着剤リムーバーを塗って、浸透するまで2-3分待ちます。
    • 高く持ち上げる位置をスイッチします。本やフォーム製ブロックなどをMacBook Pro左側先端の下に置いてください。

    • 前の手順を繰り返して、持ち上げた左側の二つのバッテリーも分離させます。

    • 外側のバッテリー左側の端に接着剤リムーバーを塗って、浸透するまで2-3分待ちます。

    • バッテリーの下にプラスチックカード1枚を差し込んで、端から端までカードをスライドして、バッテリーを分離してください。

    • 右隣のバッテリーにも同じ作業を繰り返します。

    • 次の作業中、バッテリーが再装着するのを防ぐため、プラスチックカードをそのまま置くか、バッテリーを裏返してください。

  47. 本やフォーム製ブロックを取り外します。それからディスプレイの蝶番付近下に据えてください。 本やフォーム製ブロックを取り外します。それからディスプレイの蝶番付近下に据えてください。
    • 本やフォーム製ブロックを取り外します。それからディスプレイの蝶番付近下に据えてください。

  48. バッテリーコネクターかプラスチック製バッテリーフレームを掴んで、わずかに持ち上げます。そして、中央2つのバッテリーせるの上部先端を露出させます。 バッテリーコネクターかプラスチック製バッテリーフレームを掴んで、わずかに持ち上げます。そして、中央2つのバッテリーせるの上部先端を露出させます。
    • バッテリーコネクターかプラスチック製バッテリーフレームを掴んで、わずかに持ち上げます。そして、中央2つのバッテリーせるの上部先端を露出させます。

  49. プラスチックバッテリーのフレームを作業の邪魔にならない位置に持ち上げたまま、2つの中央のバッテリーセル上部の下に数滴の接着剤リムーバーを注入します。 接着剤リムーバーが浸透するまで2-3分待ちます。
    • プラスチックバッテリーのフレームを作業の邪魔にならない位置に持ち上げたまま、2つの中央のバッテリーセル上部の下に数滴の接着剤リムーバーを注入します。

    • 接着剤リムーバーが浸透するまで2-3分待ちます。

    Instead of this, I just went and got safety wire I have, cut about 2ft, and then tucked it under a batter cell and went back and forth, about 5 times, and it cut through the adhesive. Did that for each cell and battery came right out. I didn’t bother removing the old adhesive, no point imo and saved from any liquids in the computer.

    Rick Hulun - 返信

  50. プラスチックフレームを作業の邪魔にならない位置に固定したまま、プラスチックカードの一角を中央バッテリーセルの外側端の下に差し込みます。 バッテリーコントローラーに一番近い縁を沿ってカードをスライドしないでください。キーボードリボン ケーブルにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。 カードをバッテリーせるの下側に向けてスライドします。剥がした接着剤が再装着するのを防ぐためそのまま放置します。
    • プラスチックフレームを作業の邪魔にならない位置に固定したまま、プラスチックカードの一角を中央バッテリーセルの外側端の下に差し込みます。

    • バッテリーコントローラーに一番近い縁を沿ってカードをスライドしないでください。キーボードリボン ケーブルにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    • カードをバッテリーせるの下側に向けてスライドします。剥がした接着剤が再装着するのを防ぐためそのまま放置します。

  51. MacBook Proの上部ケースから残りのバッテリーセルを剥がすため、同じ手順を繰り返します。 MacBook Proの上部ケースから残りのバッテリーセルを剥がすため、同じ手順を繰り返します。 MacBook Proの上部ケースから残りのバッテリーセルを剥がすため、同じ手順を繰り返します。
    • MacBook Proの上部ケースから残りのバッテリーセルを剥がすため、同じ手順を繰り返します。

  52. プラスチックのフレーム付きバッテリーを持ち上げ、デバイス本体の蝶番側にスライドします。上部ケースに止められたネジポストが出てくるまで持ち上げてください。 プラスチックのフレーム付きバッテリーを持ち上げ、デバイス本体の蝶番側にスライドします。上部ケースに止められたネジポストが出てくるまで持ち上げてください。
    • プラスチックのフレーム付きバッテリーを持ち上げ、デバイス本体の蝶番側にスライドします。上部ケースに止められたネジポストが出てくるまで持ち上げてください。

  53. バッテリーを持ち上げて取り出します。 新しいバッテリーをインストールする前に、MacBook Proのケースから残りの接着剤を除去してください。
    • バッテリーを持ち上げて取り出します。

    • 新しいバッテリーをインストールする前に、MacBook Proのケースから残りの接着剤を除去してください。

    • 上手くいけば、素手でも接着剤を剥がせます。

    • そうでない場合、残りの接着剤に接着剤剤リムーバーを塗布して2-3分待ってから、プラスチックのツールで擦り落としてください。これは時間を要する作業なので、ゆっくりと作業を続けましょう。

    • 残りの接着剤リムーバーを拭きとり、MacBook Proが完全にドライになるまでまで数分間待ちます。

    • iFixitキットに入っている交換用バッテリー接着ストリップが貼られています。接着ストリップのシールを剥がす前に、バッテリーの装着位置をきちんと確認してください。それから、各バッテリーをそれぞれ正しい箇所に押し込んで装着します。もしオリジナルのバッテリーには付けられていなかった追加のフィルムやライナーが交換用バッテリーに付いている場合は、ここで除去してください。

    • この修理ガイドを完成したら、新しく装着したバッテリーのカリブレーションを行なってください。100%になるまで充電します。充電後も最低2時間はプラグを繋げたままにします。それからプラグを外して、通常通り使用しながら、自然に放電させます。バッテリー残量小のサインが表示されたら、これまでの作業を保存して、スリープ状態になるまで放置してください。スリープ状態に入ったら、少なくとも5時間置きます。それから一気に100%まで充電します。

    • 新しいバッテリーを装着後、通常通り作動しない場合は、MacBook ProのSMCをリセットしなければならない可能性があります。

    Tip: when testing the battery's fit, once you have it in place and the screw holes are lined up, I made two little marks with a pen right where it tucks under the screw posts. Then once you have the adhesive backs removed, just hold the battery upright and line up with your markings, then tilt it down and tuck it under.

    Fred Anderson - 返信

    I ran out of the acetone liquid--why not include a full bottle of the stuff, guys?

    info - 返信

    I'll arrange to send another bottle of the Adhesive Remover Solution your way. :)

    Kadan Sharpe -

    For anyone who's wondering, you can use the solvent quite sparingly—there's more than enough for one, possibly two battery jobs in there. But it can be tough to tell how much is enough if you're doing it for the first time. Stick with about 1 ml per cell, and add a second ml if needed.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I just replaced the battery in a 2011 15 inch MacBook pro last week. It took maybe 5 minutes and cost around $100. Now the life is over 100% because the new battery I got was actually a higher capacity than the stock battery.

    I find it actually almost criminal that Apple has progressively tried to make it harder and harder to do DIY maintenance and improvements. At this point I refuse to buy a new Mac. I have 15 apple products in my house….but they are not going to get any newer. I prefer to buy a good used mac and put new RAM or an SSD drive in it. Maybe the graphics is not quite up to par but they are good solid machines. People (maybe a smaller subset) want choice and options and preventing any DIY work is a bad move in my mind! Typing on a 2012 MacBook pro 13 inch…which is a great size. I was able to add a 1 TB SSD to it, but it has 8 GB or RAM and that is not enough….Chrome freezes constantly and you can only have a few apps open. Come on Apple! listen to your customers, not your shareholders.

    Kris Cone - 返信

    Hi - I was told that you need to replace trackpad and a keyboard when replacing battery for this mac. Is it true? Thank you

    Dany - 返信

    hi, after replacing the battery, all seems to work properly except the headphones jack. I can hear the sound from the internal speakers but when I plug the headphones jack sound is not output and it stills come from internal speakers. I checked again the headphone jack cable and it is properly fit on the board. I also tried resetting the SMC but problem persists. Could you please advise ? Sherif.

    Sherif Fayek - 返信

    I want to remove the 2 center cells to get at the track pad, but it seems that plastic frame forces you to remove all the cells. Am I right? That makes the job much harder.

    joigaloid9 - 返信

    After replacing the battery I can’t charge the battery to 100%. Maximum charging is 91%, the led at the power cable does not get green even after hours of charging.

    Even a SMC reset did not help….. Any ideas?

    hefe_killer - 返信

    Got the same problem as hefe_killer. I reset the SMC, yet sometimes my MacBook just shuts off and when I charge it it says 1% even though it had maybe 50% or so left when it shut off. Also when it runs out of battery it immediately shuts off instead of falling asleep.

    Kevin - 返信

    Me too :( Kevin

    robin delrez -

    Have you tried re-calibrating it?

    Derek - 返信

    I think that in “Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.” - the “mop up part is a major understatament.

    This is by FAR the most laborious, messy, and time consuming step in the whole affair.. Of course it does not have to be done perfect but..

    Alex Miro - 返信

    I recently replaced the battery on my MBP mid 2012 and it was working fine. I did the calibration and it seemed the battery was doing great. I was using my laptop until it hit 10% and the laptop suddenly shut down. I have tried to turn it back on using the power button but it is unresponsive. I have performed an SMC reset but it still will not turn on. How would I know if the battery is defective?

    Justin Hong - 返信

    @justinhong93 Easiest way to check is to plug the old battery back into the board and see if that makes any difference. It’s a little tricky because obviously you don’t want to pry the old battery out until you’re sure whether it’s bad. But IIRC you can carefully set the old battery on top of the new one and plug it in. Secure it with some masking tape and carefully flip it over and turn it on. If that resolves the problem, it was probably a defective battery. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Is it really necessary to remove everything or does it just give you more room to remove the battery and the adhesive?? This seems like such a daunting task when removing the battery seems so simple.

    Cheyanne Witcher - 返信

    I just installed the battery, it wasn’t as bad as i thought. Im anxious to make sure everything is working, can I use the laptop while its charging in its calibration state? The instructions say to charge fully and then an additional 2 hours, so does this mean (A) we can have it charging while we use it or (B) leave it powered off and charging until full, then an additional 2 hours, then we use? im confused

    Joshua Rivera - 返信

    @joshrivera Answer (A). It’s okay to use while it’s charging.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So after double checking everything, and resetting the smc, I notice my battery status was not showing up on the menu bar. I check system preferences and the batter is at 0%. Seems like it’s not being recognized at all.

    Joshua Rivera - 返信

    Since replacing the battery, bluetooth connection is intermittent. Any ideas as to what to recheck?

    jon - 返信

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

203 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Jeff Suovanen

メンバー登録日: 2013年08月06日

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finally something more complicated than replacing the fan in a ps4. Great guide but I'm not going to attempt this even with lots of experience taking MacBook pro's apart to replace the disc drives with second hard drives.

nicholaskessler - 返信

I went ahead and did changed the battery to only find out the battery I bought was defected : (

Edward - 返信

Hi there, Edward. Sorry to hear about the battery trouble. I've reached out to you via email to see how I can help!

Kadan Sharpe -

Thanks for the guide! I used a light duty heat gun to soften the battery adhesive. Use great caution if you try this method, you can easily damage anything plastic so I used the MBP bottom to shield the keyboard bits. I heated one cell at a time until it was slightly uncomfortable to the touch, then waited a few moments until the heat softened the adhesive underneath, then carefully use a plastic card to slide under and pry free. It took about an hour to remove the battery and all remaining adhesive. For the remaining adhesive I used "GooGone", being very careful.

Brian - 返信

You can also set your battery on fire, which can have pretty catastrophic consequences. I'm glad it worked out for you, but I would urge everyone to avoid using a heat gun on or near any lithium-ion battery.

Jeff Suovanen -

Brian, kudos to you for bravery. But I think I would agree with Jeff: for most of us, normal people, who don’t enjoy climbing on building walls,, walking tight rope between skyscrapers or jumping in wing suit from the top of the mountain - keep that heat gun holstered!!! :)

Dimitry Kireyenkoff -

I've replaced a few of these without removing anything except the battery itself.. Just be cautious and patient!!

duston - 返信

Hi, do you happen to have instructions on how to replace the battery without removing the rest?

Thanks!

Rosa Luxemburg -

After going through this process and seeing how messy the adhesive got for me (was unable to purchase the ifixit adhesive remove because it cant be shipped to Canada so I had to use Isopropyl Alcohol). I would recommend taking everything out. That in addition to if there are any sort of accidents at least you logic board etc are protected.

kevinhayes656 -

Same as duston, I changed the battery without removing the logic board. Why do you advise to remove everything ?

Guillaume Rizk - 返信

You can go straight for the battery—but as stated in the introduction, some of the more effective solvents (including the one we currently use) react badly with certain plastics. I've seen MacBook Pro speakers come out looking like something from a Salvador Dali painting after this procedure. Because of the tight clearances it's very tough to control where every drop of solvent goes, so the approach shown here is to remove the speakers before applying the solvent. (And unfortunately the speakers themselves are trapped under the logic board, so removing them means removing just about everything else first.) Removing the speakers is the cautious approach, but if you know the risks and prefer to do it another way, go for it ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

Wow, this totally took the fear out of replacing my battery. I bought the iFixit kit with the tools and solution and replaced the battery in less than 1 hour. If you're comfortable with computers, you don't actually have to tear down the whole thing before replacing the battery as long as you are VERY careful about the angle when using the solution and are careful not to touch the logic board. The iFixit replacement battery dropped right into place. I'm actually writing this on the Mac that I fixed.

Nigel Smith - 返信

I used isopropyl alcohol and it drained back my display - now I have a lot of wet spots. Protect your display if you doing this job !!!

Tips how to solve this new problem ?

Mario - 返信

I took a serious shortcut and saved a ton of time and effort on this repair. Found some heavy duty mono-filament in the studio, tied the ends to some 1/2" square dowel rod sections, and taped the handles for comfort with some gaffers. I didn't remove the fans, motherboard, or anything other than unplugging the old battery and taking off the two battery terminal screws.

I just tucked used the mono-filament behind the top corners of each battery cell, then held down the computer and slowly cut through the adhesive like a mafia hitman. I found pulling one side while holding tension on the other was more effective than trying to pull both at once. About half a dozen strokes and the cell popped up, and I used a card to snap the last bit of adhesive at the bottom. Repeated for all 6 cells, being especially careful around the one with the track-pad cable. It took about 10 minutes to remove the old battery.

Removing glue residue took a good portion of an hour, a little at a time, using the spudger worked best.

Stan - 返信

Bought all the stuff, took about 2 hours. I removed the fans, motherboard, etc per instructions. It did make battery easier to take off. If you got stuff on your display, it's because you didn't tilt your laptop and it probably leaked out through the trackpad.

I didn't have to use a heat gun or anything. The adhesive remover (blue stuff) they give you is extremely powerful and after about 1-2 minutes, glue starts falling apart and you can gently pry out the battery cells.

One thing to note, WRITE DOWN WHERE THE SCREWS GO. There is about 8 different types.

All in all, cycle count 0, so far so good!

aloshka - 返信

I got stuck at Step 12, so I reverted to Step 4 and replaced the battery without removing the logic board, fans, etc. It is doable with care, be sure you do not leak solvent towards the speakers or logic board.

Laurian - 返信

Please update the batteries products descriptions in the EU store if applicable.

They are currently stating "Please note: this battery is difficult to replace and there is currently no guide. " :)

Veaceslav Cotruta - 返信

Just noticed that the "Adhesive Remover Solution" is not available :/

Veaceslav Cotruta -

Did it without removing the logic board myself too.. It was no big deal, as long as you keep the case tilted AWAY from everything else, especially the speakers.

ajanjigian - 返信

I was able to replace the battery in my 2012 mbp retina. The guide worked perfectly the whole way through. I agree with other comments about the screws - I ended up with 1 screw left-over and I have no idea where it went. Thankfully, everything is held in place with multiple screws and the screws have locktight or some other kind of thread locking glue.

This guide should be read by every apple hardware engineer to make them think twice about designing their laptops like this. I won't be buying another apple laptop due to the extreme steps to repair something so simple as a battery. Breaking the down almost the entire laptop for a stupid battery swap is not worth the reduction in thickness of the laptop.

bilsch - 返信

I did it! I just replaced the battery pack on my MacBook Pro (Retina, Mid 2012) 15" and I looked at Youtube for help... One guy was using canned air (Dust-Off) with the can upside down so the cold liquid would get underneath the battery -- making the adhesive brittle, and then snap! The battery releases. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPqrmt-Ic... Also another trick is instead of using the iFixit adhesive remover which I believe is acetone I used tried and true "Carpel-O-Peel" adhesive remover -- far less noxious. and worked even better at removing the residue AFTER I had removed the battery pack with a small narrow spatula/cake knife/putty knife. I also used the string method on a couple of batteries -- that works too especially with the cold dust-off liquid. Instead of string I found that edge trimmer cord (RYOBI 0.80" twisted bulk line from Home Depot AC04138 and AC04139) was even stronger but I had to get the battery started with a spatula to fit the monofilament underneath and around the battery.

William Tzouris - 返信

To be clear about my comments above I went STRAIGHT FOR THE BATTERY. Just removed the bottom plate on the laptop and that's it. The only screws removed inside the laptop were the two battery screws and the only thing I unplugged was the battery connection in the center

More links: "Carpel-O-Peel" adhesive remover -- http://www.carpelvideoonline.com/carpel-...

I bought a gallon jug about 25 years ago -- still using it. Also saw it on Amazon

I used Carpel O Peel with the spudger to remove the old adhesive after battery removal.

Tilt the laptop so any adhesive remover flows to the bottom metal lip.

Using cold liquid from Dust-Off to make the battery adhesive brittle: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPqrmt-Ic...

Using "String" or "Thread" to cut under the adhesive: (Two Parts)

I used monofilament -- very strong edge trimmer (Weed Wacker) cord. And wear gloves to make it easier on your hands.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55t...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrCX8o_HD...

William Tzouris - 返信

If I were to do it again I would make a wire tool with piano wire/guitar string/picture hanging wire and I like the idea of cutting down two dowels to make comfortable handles for pulling.. Or wear gloves. If you can get your hands comfortable it's not that hard. The only advantage of the plastic edge trimmer cord is that it is slippery nylon and non-conductive like wire. The glue is not nearly as bad as everyone said -- it is double-sided sticky tape on the Later 2012 model. - Also my laptop battery has 750 cycles and was 77-83% health. It was unpredictable when it got low on charge and I wanted a replaced battery for when I decide to sell my computer on eBay.. Now I have cycle count 0 and Battery Health 2 app version 1.4 shows 101% health and 8536 mAh maximum charge capable. This is a great replacement battery! The iFixIt battery was 59% charged after sitting in the box for 5 weeks after being delivered. I'm 99% sure these are unused OEM Apple batts removed from the top case part. Great deal!!!

William Tzouris - 返信

I did it without disassembling any other components besides battery and without using adhesive remover. I just used several spudgers and a pieve of aluminum to pry and work through the adhesive. Slow and required some strong forces but it worked without bending, scratching or starting a fire. Admittedly risky though.

Phillip Apley - 返信

Both speaker connectors snapped off the motherboard under almost no resistance. Camera mount on motherboard also instant snapped off.

If I had to do it again I would not disassemble the whole computer because of fear of solvent destroying the speakers, the connectors on the motherboard are too fragile.

jimjwalker - 返信

My left fan is not working as well and my track pad is barely working. I made my MBP worse than it was. Cannot recommend even for seasoned computer builders.

jimjwalker - 返信

Thank you Jeff Suovanen for the instructions and I successfully replaced my battery without any trouble. The only thing is I noticed I'm getting 7510 mAh now at full charge capacity. The ifixit.com Europe Store said I would get "Capacity: 7610-8460 mAh."

https://eustore.ifixit.com/en/Parts/MacB...

Daniel Brown - 返信

Got a battery from iFixit and used the aerosol trick mentioned by @wtzouris. Watched the YouTube video, and used plenty of aerosol to freeze the adhesive, worked a treat. I even bought a flat cake icing spatula (similar to the video) which I used to pry off the battery cells. Had some leftover foamy sticker stuff from the adhesive which I scraped off with a sharp knife. Any minor actual adhesive residue I removed with nail polish and cotton wool pads. Very easy, no need to remove all the parts, only the actual battery.

Installation of new battery took about 1 minute. Battery Health 2 says ‘0 Cycles’, ‘Current Max 8658 mAh’ and ‘Original Max 8460mAh’. Very pleased with the outcome!

PJ Palomaki - 返信

so instead of using the provided adhesive removal solution you you use aerosol to freeze and then remove safely everything?

Bert0ld0 -

Just successfully changed my battery with your help. Didn’t have the adhesive remover though so I just warmed up the adhesive (cloth full of rice heated in the microwave, seems to cause some moisture though so maybe be careful).

Ólafur Jón Thoroddsen - 返信

I followed the advice from Stan regarding the use of monofilament wire (fishing line). I used 14 lb test (0.3 mm). Even though I got the kit, I didn’t use the solvent, and instead extracted the battery directly without dissembling the main board. I used the kit’s tweezers to place the wire under each corner of a battery module, and pulled in a sawing motion towards the bottom. Mechanic’s gloves are really handy here. I broke a few lengths of wire, but in the end it worked pretty well. Got all 6 battery modules off in about 20 minutes. I went with Goo Gone Gel to remove the remaining adhesive. It’s not as potent as the kit’s solvent, so I had to let it sit for 10-15 minutes. However, the kit’s blue spludger tool made short work of it after that. Wiped it up with a paper towel, and cleaned up with isopropyl alcohol. Even though the gel does a good job of staying put, I’d still recommend putting a barrier between the display and the touch pad (e.g. aluminum foil).

bobmhac - 返信

Just want to emphasize I also went STRAIGHT FOR THE BATTERY. :-)

bobmhac -

I also didn’t remove the logic board and speakers—just be very VERY careful with the injection of acetone under the battery. The syringe, when placed up against the metal back, will accelerate the squirt and catch the tip of the speakers. Just be really careful, and you don’t have to worry about removing the whole assembly. Also be careful to not puncture the battery :)

holachek - 返信

All done. Especially the removal of the old battery and cleaning of the glue residue makes it well worth taking all these sensitive bits out.

Works a dream again. Thanks to Jeff and team iFixit.

Jozef Wiewel - 返信

Hi y’all!

Thank you iFixit for the great battery and instructions! This was by far the most complicated fix I ever did, but it was well worth it!

Just like some people in the comments above, I did not remove the motherboard and all the other parts. After I tried a few (very unsuccessful) other methods, the best working method I found was to use a regular hair blower to warm up the battery for about 20 seconds, after the battery was just a bit warm I used dental floss to cut/saw through the adhesive. When I got stuck again I warmed the battery up again. (I live in the Netherlands and its winter, in warmer areas you might not even need to warm the battery up!) This worked like a charm and after 30-40 minutes all the cells were loose.

The installation of the new battery was a breeze and was done in just a few minutes!

Kind regards, and good luck to those who’re replacing the battery now! :)

Ruben

the Netherlands

Ruben - 返信

Ps. to the iFixit team: If you have another MacBook Pro that needs a new battery, I would strongly recommend to try this technique out and document it if it’s successful. It is a lot easier and less risky compared to removing all the sensitive guts of the MacBook and using a strong adhesive, especially for newbies like me. :D

Ruben -

@carbonvane Thanks for your comments. Applying heat to the battery can definitely work, but heat and lithium-ion batteries are a potentially explosive combination, especially if they aren’t discharged properly before you start. Overheating due to lack of care or experience could destroy your laptop at best, and cause serious fire or injury at worst. So, we try to avoid instructing people to do it that way when possible. Congrats on a successful repair!

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu I understand that totally, I was pretty worried when I first tried this method as well. But the batteries don’t have to be hot, a temperature increase of just a few degrees (my room was about 17C) was already enough. The batteries will get hotter under normal use, so I don’t think it will be very dangerous.

But, yeah, you need to make sure you don’t apply the heat for too long a period, otherwise will indeed get pretty risky! ;)

Ruben -

Hello! Who tested the ifixit battery? is it good ? does it not cut before 0%? I bought an another one and it’s cut the power a 80% (less than 1hour)

Facon - 返信

This was my first battery replacement and everything went well. Thank you.

Elvis Zunde - 返信

Does anyone know if replacing the battery improves the MacBook’s performance? I don’t mean battery performance. I’m curious if there’s any noticeable difference in the MacBook handling computational/graphically intensive tasks like video editing, rendering, gaming, etc. As I’m sure we’re all aware from the recent publicity in the news, iOS throttles power usage and reduces speed on system wide functions as a device’s battery ages. I’m thinking macOS may do something similar? Has anyone done a performance test before and after replacing a battery in a MacBook? Short of that, does anyone have any anecdotal evidence of their machine performing better after replacing the battery? Again, I’m interested in processing performance, not battery performance.

Jeff Rizza - 返信

They’ve throttled Macs for similar reasons in the past, so I wouldn’t be at all surprised if the answer is yes. But, it shouldn’t really matter—if your battery is degraded to below 80% capacity, it’s time to swap it out regardless.

Jeff Suovanen -

Jeff, thanks for the response and the info. That’s an interesting article. I agree it’s definitely possible they’re still doing this. I’m down to about 71% capacity, so yes, definitely time to swap. A little frustrating since I only have 668 cycles on the current battery. I thought they were suppose to be rated for about 1,000 before dropping to about 80% capacity. Anyway, thanks again. I’ll be ordering a battery replacement kit from you guys soon.

Jeff Rizza -

I’m at 1,003 cycles and my battery health is at 61%. I’m gonna change it asap.

In Denmark, the cheapest Apple authorized repair shop charge you almost $600 to change the battery - definitely NOT paying them $500 for an hours’ work :-P

Joakim Borregaard -

My first battery replacement. Everything went well. I used the thin plates that came with the battery fix kit on the outer batteries. Pushed it in from the side, then from the corner. I also used some plastic tool like this, see picture: (http://images.biltema.com/PAXToImageServ...). These helped me a lot. Specially on the middle and center batteries. Mostly used the tool to the left, and just used raw force and pushed it all the way under the battery until it came lose. The old battery not get damaged, except a little bit bend.

Arvid Larsen - 返信

I have MBR Mid 2012. I followed all the instructions and was able to successfully remove the battery and replace with iFixIt’s OEM battery, took me about 2 hours. A couple of issues I ran into that I think might help few people here.

1. Fan Cables - at the other end of the fan cable, there is a small latch you have to lift from the board for safe release. Same goes for most of the flat styled cables on this entire motherboard. Also make sure to re-seat it with precision. My computer once booted reported at Hardware Check that one of my fan was at faulty and indeed noticed my right side of fan wasn’t running. I had to reinstall the cable a few times to just get it right so it would start spinning.

2. Battery Calibration - If your Macbook is shutting down below 20% or so and SMC/NVRAM reset didn’t do the trick, try this old method designed for older generation of Macbooks. Unplug the Battery cable, hold down the power button for 10 seconds, re-seat the cable and boot. Charge too 100% and let it drain.

Josh Park - 返信

I did it without removing the Logic Board :), Battery out and Battery in :D … Thanks for the guide.

John Grace - 返信

As others have mentioned, I did this repair without removing the logic board, fans, and speakers. Keep in mind that iFixit isn’t condoning this and if you damage some part of your MacBook by going this route it’s because you took a shortcut. That said, I decided the risk of damaging the connectors or other fragile components involved in the full disassembly described above was higher than the risk of damaging my speakers with the adhesive remover. Here are some things I did to (successfully) minimize the chance of destroying the speakers:

1) Fold small pieces of paper towel and jam them into the spaces between the battery cells and the speakers. This created a barrier in case some of the adhesive remover got near the speakers.

2) Use a hairdryer/heat gun to loosen the adhesive on the two outermost cells (the two smallest cells). Be VERY careful doing this. You want to use a relatively low temp if you’re using a heat gun and don’t stick the gun too close.

Jeff Rizza - 返信

As iFixit has mentioned above, you’re running a risk using a heat gun near lithium batteries. If you’re going to go this route it’s essential that you fully drain your battery first.

3) Use the supplied plastic cards as ramps to direct adhesive remover towards the edges of the cells. This helps to block the adhesive remover liquid from splashing or running over towards the speakers. By doing this in combination with using the paper towel barriers I didn’t have any issues with adhesive remover getting on my speakers.

4) Cover the logic board, speakers, and fans with a few layers of paper towel or some other covering (just not anything metal) before you begin working on the battery cells. This helps prevent any drips/splashes of adhesive remover from getting on critical components. It also helps to keep them protected from other types of damage, such as the plastic shard that went flying when I broke a plastic card prying out one of the battery cells :)

Good luck with your repair!

Jeff Rizza - 返信

Why is so much adhesive tape on the replacement battery? Wouldn’t this make it as hard to replace as the original battery? I mean we are “boo-ing” apple for this, just to make the same mistake ifixit? I would put less adhesive (like 60% less) and in thinner bands to make it service friendly. After all the battery don’t need THAT much tape, since the bottom cover will hold it there anyway. (I plan to actually remove much of the tape from the replacement before puting it in).

crus - 返信

This is a great question, and I think the answer is that it’s part of the design. Because of the dangers they present, lithium-ion batteries need to be firmly secured. In the absence of any screws or brackets to mount the battery, you need to use enough glue to make sure the battery’s not going to come loose across a broad range of user behaviors and environmental conditions over a long period of time, plus a margin for safety. Bottom line, if it’s designed to use glue, then that’s what we’re stuck with.

Jeff Suovanen -

Fantastic guide. Did it in a couple more hours than the guide said. Im a newbie though and used extreme caution. Works very well. A good advice is to also read the comments before completing/starting the steps.

Ruben Espelid - 返信

I didn’t have any trouble installing my new battery and my computer worked well immediately following — all battery specs seemed as good as new. I recently ran the battery all the way down and am currently trying to recharge it. The charger has a red light indicating that it’s charging, hooked up porperly, etc. but the computer has been non-responsive for over two hours now. The fans are pulsing lightly on and off but that’s the only activity that I’ve gotten. I’m relatively experienced with this kind of thing and I went slowly and didn’t feel like I made any mistakes. Let me know if any of you have an idea of what’s going on here.

Larry Chüper - 返信

Did you reset SMC as instructed in the final step?

Jeff Suovanen -

I'm very happy with the fix kit, it is of very good quality for the price, but the thread method (you can search on YouTube) is SO much easier, faster and safer, you only need to remove the battery and no glue remover is needed.

Javier Montes - 返信

Score another successful replacement using monofilament to remove the outer 4 battery cells without dismantling the Mac making this a fairly easy fix.

The warning about needing to be careful about the keyboard ribbon cable on the center two cells led me to be more cautious when removing them as there are no pictures showing the Mac without the batteries to more clearly identify the risk. As they are far from the speakers I used the acetone+cards inserted from the sides to weaken the adhesive & remove them. Now that I’ve performed the replacement I see that there was no danger in using the monofilament to remove the middle two cells either.

It took me longer to clean up the remaining adhesive strips and then the remaining glue than every other step. I found that for the glue traces, rubbing alcohol worked better on the aluminum & acetone was better on the bottom of the trackpad.

pmhparis - 返信

Hat super funktioniert! Hatte bei der ersten Bestellung des Akkus Mängel geltend gemacht, da dieser beschädigt war. Der iFixit Deutschland Support hat mir sofort geholfen - zweiter Akku her, dieser einwandfrei. Danke an die Gummibärchen im Retourenpaket, grüße an dieser Stelle an Christoph der sehr kompetent mit meiner Reklamation umgegangen ist :P

Der neue Akku war nach ca. 2 Stunden verbaut. Am schwersten ist tatsächlich die Entfernung der Klebereste, aber auch das geht. (Tipp an alle: Ich habe die Reste sehr gut mit dem Metallspatel aus dem Pro Tec Toolkit entfernen können).

Tim - 返信

I successfully changed out the battery without removing the logic board .. I figured the danger of damaging some of the very breakable connectors was one I didn’t want to risk. I search YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... .. great tutorial to allow removal of battery in a few minutes. I used shoe laces .. it worked really well.

Thank you ifixit - the battery is 100% of design capacity, and although I didn’t use the guide above - the comments gave me what i needed. And the OEM battery is gold.

This was actually remarkably straightforward using shoe laces.

Ant Carter - 返信

(the ‘round’ type of shoe laces .. )

Ant Carter -

I took the back cover off, then skipped down to step #50. I used the provided plastic card, sliding/wiggling it though the adhesive that attached the battery to the case. It took about 10 minutes to remove the old battery in this manner.You do have to be very careful not to pry too much on the two center cells, as they attach to the back of the trackpad cover, which is bendy.

Before installing the new battery, I removed the old adhesive, trial fitted the new battery, lining up the holes of the connector bracket, then marking the case where the battery aligned correctly, using a sharpie to do this.

After reassembling, I hit the power button—nothing. Worried, I figured that the battery was not charged, so I connected the power adapter, and after a few minutes started up normally. Battery showed a charge of 96%. so I’m guessing the startup procedure saw there was a new battery and wouldn’t go. All seems normal now, took a few minutes to charge to 100%, and now will drain it a few times.

Thanks, iFixit!

Dexter Jones - 返信

I skipped steps 5-34. and removed the battery without problems. Be careful with the liquid. It really needs very little as described.

Thomas Jäggi - 返信

I replaced the battery by only unscrewing the lower case assembly back cover and detaching the battery cable. I did not disassemble anything else. I then unscrewed all four speaker cover screws—two on each side— and propped up the speaker cover plastic “wings” using two iFixit cards wedged between them and the bottom case, to bend them up off the case slightly. Open the computer and turn it around so the clamshell is face down. Carefully squeeze solvent at the top and sides of each battery section and slowly work the plastic card, then plastic spudger, underneath each. Be especially careful not to get any solvent on the trackpad cable at the top of the battery, which snakes underneath the metal trackpad plate. Also be careful not to bend the trackpad plate when you unstick the two big middle battery sections—the battery is glued to it, and using too much force will bend it. If you are patient and gentle, you can unstick the battery without taking anything else apart.

Jaime Hovey - 返信

I got the kit to change the battery of my Macbook Pro Retina 2012. I should have done this 2 years ago !! I did follow the guide to make sure I don’t break anything using the adhesive remover. I also took the time to remove dust from all the parts since everything was out of the computer. It took me a bit over 3h to do everything, I guess it can go much faster if you are familiar with Mac repairs.

The only negative point is that I got 2x P5 bit instead of 1x P5 and 1x T5… must have been a packaging error.

Philippe Miron - 返信

Got the old kit (?) with solvent and syringe, which worked very well. I jumped straight to removing the batteries. The mentioned risk of destroying the speakers may be avoided with careful application of the solvent in tenths of milliliters, instead of milliliters as described. A light lift with the spudger made access for the solvent much easier. No I have a well functioning mbp with a well performing battery. Big thanks to ifixit-team for providing this kit!

Eivinn Å. Skjærseth - 返信

I just replace my battery (mid 2012 retina A1398) and like many readers I decidedinstead of disassembling pretty much the entire computer went straight of the battery. I used a 20g solid copper wire to pull under the battery elements with minimum application of the solvent, the computer slightly titled away from the logic board. 10 minutes to remove the old battery complete;y and than another two hours to clean out the adhesive residue ! (the latter part would have been the same even if I did a complete disassembly as suggested by the guide). I think that disassembling a MacbookPro as suggested by this guide has a high potential of damaging gentle connectors and in general getting things wrong, loosing screws etc.. - and some of the comments confirm it. So my advice - don’t follow the guide beyond the opening the bottom cover and disconnecting the battery. Just go directly for the battery removal - it is faster, easier, and has less potential for damaging your computer.

Alex Miro - 返信

..continued from the previous comment:

Of course you have take to the common sense precautions when dealing with a high capacity Li-Ion, if you don’t know what these are than you should not be repairing MacBooks in any event.

Alex Miro - 返信

Well, I did it! gave myself about a 70% chance of everything coming out alright in the end and so far so good! Kept most of the screws in place with painters tape to hold them on or near their respective spots. Definitely that and making sure all the connectors are free as you replace the board(I did have to wiggle the backlight cable free after a preliminary attempt to secure the logic board.)

I think I’d rather attempt just the battery replacement as others have mentioned without pulling the logic board up next time though. It’s all quite doable with the guide and taking time to work through things.

One note was really being careful about the connectors that have to be “flipped” up on their hinge - e.g. the keyboard connecter which I just yanked out….

Makes me feel much better about the possibility of doing some other repair although I can imagine this is getting harder and harder with newer models.

Brian Lamb - 返信

picture hanging wire with crc / wd40 on the wire for lube, works a treat- make sure you disconnect the battery first. Then gentle hair dryer easy. No need for chemicals just the wire and plastic scraper to clean up. Thanks for the comments saving me from possible disaster and hours. Done in 1.5 hrs (extra 30 mins to pull out the fans and clean them).

gleembru - 返信

Great step by step!!! I just changed my battery and everything is working like a charm. Just a little advice: Be patience with the adhesive scrapping process; it’s by far the most annoying and time consuming part of the process.

nicolasgonzalezduarte - 返信

Changed the battery without taking out the logic board- was just VERY careful about where the adhesive remover went. For getting rid of the adhesive residue on the case, I used ronsonoil instead of the adhesive remover- MUCH quicker and more effective. Wiped it all down with alcohol afterwards, everything back together and working great.

Bradley Westerford - 返信

Used the string method under batteries instead of solvent and that worked awesome. Heated batteries with a microwave heated rice pouch before hand and adhesive came of very easy. Left residues in place and just placed new battery on top of that - I don't get why anyone would waste time on removing all of the old adhesive first. Layer was 1 or 2mm at max. Anyway, new battery works so far and I have to say the level of iFixits professionality (kit quality, website quality etc) leaves me in awe. And also this community in the comments sections is mpressive and very helpful. Thanks everone.

Malte Malm - 返信

I replaced the battery in my mbp mid 2012 laptop as per your instructions and it seemed to go just fine except that the new battery does not charge. I have tried numerous online “fixes” but nothing works. A screenshot from coconut battery seems to be saying that my battery condition is poor. Is it possible that you sent me a bad battery?

Brian Martinson - 返信

Any luck finding a solution?

David Baier -

Hi I am having the same trouble as Brian Martinson, I just installed my new battery in a mid 2012 MacBook pro Retina. As soon as i plugged the power cable, the laptop turned on. I notice it is at 0% and when checking it says Replace Now. Battery Is Not Charging. I then followed the instructions for SMC reset by shutting down the computer, pressing Shift + Control + Option + Power buttons or 10 seconds. releasing and pressing power again to turn the laptop on again. Is there anything else i can do for this? Thank you

David Baier - 返信

Plug the old battery in and see if it behaves the same or if it works normally. If normal, there may be a defect in the new battery and you should get it exchanged. If they’re both behaving badly, check to make sure nothing was damaged during the repair.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hey Jeff, I have tried the old battery and it functions normally. I ran th coconut battery app and it says battery condition poor and battery failure. 0 charge cycles. Soo it was dead on arrival. Waiting to hear from customer support for 2 days so far. Thanks for the suggestion

David Baier - 返信

Successfully replaced the battery! This was my first iFixit repair and first MacBook repair. I purchased the full fix kit. After reading the comments here and watching several videos, I skipped straight to the battery after removing the case (step 35). I used twine to saw away the original adhesive as well as the provided plastic card. After I completely removed the original battery, I used the adhesive remover and plastic scraper to remove the remaining original adhesive. Installing the new battery with adhesive can be somewhat tricky as the battery needs to slide horizontally underneath the bottom screw mounts before being fully pressed down. I recommend testing the fit and alignment with the battery screw holes and the battery cable before removing the adhesive pads and securing the new battery. After fully discharging, charging, discharging, and then resetting the SMC, the new battery is showing 8614 mAh max capacity in Apple’s system report.

Thank you to iFixit, Jeff Suovanen, and all other contributors!

Chase Durand - 返信

Ich hab den Akku ausgetauscht, aber er wird nicht erkannt. Kann es sein, dass der gelieferte Akku defekt ist? Alles andere Funktioniert nämlich.

Jan Sprenger - 返信

I did this step by step with no problem. I turned on my MacBook and everything was working like new. Then once the battery got to 30% it turned off and isn’t turning back on again. The only time I get any response is when I plug in the charger. Nothing happens on the screen but I can hear the fans running softly. What do I do to get my Mac working like it just was?

Cade warner - 返信

If you haven’t yet, reset the SMC as instructed. You can find some additional troubleshooting steps in this thread.

Jeff Suovanen -

Por fin, batería nueva! La he cambiado con el kit de ifixit pero solo removiendo la batería con mucho cuidado y todo funciona a la perfección. Gracias!

Javier Leyenda - 返信

I followed all the steps and replaced the battery without too much trouble, but now , from the very first time running down the battery to about 3 charge cycles in, my macbook dies at 25% with the new battery every time. Is this a faulty battery? Or is there a setting I can change to allow the battery to drain down to 0%. I don’t want to accidentally condition the battery to only work from 100% to 25%.

Nicholas Varanelli - 返信

Reset SMC and calibrate the battery as described in the last step. If you’ve done that and you still have problems, it’s most likely a faulty battery.

Jeff Suovanen -

Excellent guide, thanks! Extra pro tip: don’t place the screws back in the holes when you’re removing the given part, rather put them aside. Picked up the I/O board, but forgot about the screws and almost lost them as they fell on the floor.

Rudolf Csiba - 返信

I don’t understand why one should dismantle almost all the parts since the battery is right there, not underneath the motherboard.

I did replace my wifi card in my MBPr 2012 (to have the unlock by apple watch, IT WORKS!) and also just half of the steps were necessary to get the wifi board out and the new in.

Same when I upgraded my hdd in my Mini.

So it is not an isolated case.

It may be that ifixit just reuses the same web page and pictures but still is not OK to put anyone thru this hassle .

Ifixit, thank you for teaching us repairs, but don’t add extra steps, because increases of chances to brake stuff, so it defeats the purpose.

crus - 返信

There’s a fair bit of discussion about this in the comments above if you’re curious. Bottom line, there’s a good reason for removing everything, but a shorter procedure can also work well if you’re mindful of the risk. We’ve also reformulated our solvent so it’s safer (though still not 100% safe) for the speaker plastics.

Jeff Suovanen -

TIP:

On the new battery don’t use the whole area of the adhesive strip, instead just put some thin pvc foil or other thin plastic film on most tof the adhesive and leave just some small area exposed here and there (ex. at the corners like 5x5mm squares) to grip the chassis. This way you can remove again the new battery much easily in the future.

Or better leave most of the original protective film on and remove it just here and there at the corners (peal up the corners and cut it like a triangle) so the battery is still glued (to prevent rattle) but not to the point it is yet again a nightmare to remove it. I believe the battery will stay in place anyway because everything is really cramped inside, no place to rattle :).

crus - 返信

I broke the flat cable keyboard connector that is mounted on the board. The guide was not clear enough on how to remove that cable out of the connector and I had a lot of trouble with that and it is so fragile!!! And then I read in the comments that IT NOT WAS necessary to remove the board!!! Now that is not good! Is it possible to buy that connector it seems that it is just pushed in to the boardmounted metalconnectors.

Claes Lundqvist - 返信

I DID IT ! ! !

From step 35 down, taking everything out is just unnecessary. I use a thin string of nylon to cut thru the adhesive, totally safe since there is absolutely 0 force on the battery (Youtube : How to replace 15" MacBook Pro Retina Glued Battery with a Thread - Part 1).

TIP:

I put my new battery with the protective film still on the adhesive, so not glued back to my mac to trial the new battery in case the new one is defective (call me paranoid, but I heard stories). It rattles a bit but once I give it some more cycles to make sure it is OK, I will reopen and glued the new battery for good.

My old battery was at 62% (5212 mAh) capacity, 806 cycles (a decrease in capacity of ~10%/year from 2014).

The new battery is made by Simplo (known manufacturer I guess since is a common name in Mac batteries), too bad I didn’t look at my old one :).

It was made in 04.2018.

crus - 返信

I followed the advice of the commenters that stated to just pry out the batteries with a string and it worked perfectly. Takes effort but is really easy this way.

Scott Rowe - 返信

I just finished replacing my Mac Book Pro Retina Mid 2012 battery after reading through these instructions and comments. I ended up using the string technique described and shown in a YouTube Video. I was able to removed the batteries in about 30 minutes taking my time and being super careful not to damage anything else. I then used a roll on Tea Tree oil to dissolve the remaining adhesive and clean up the battery container area. It worked well but took me another 45 minutes. New battery installed in less than 5 minutes once all that was clean and dry.

kirkfuller - 返信

They have great repair vids, but their products are not up to par.

I bought this battery back in in 2017, it came defected. So they sent be a replacement that worked for 4 months, until they had to send me another replacement. Everything was good until last month (8 months later) where the 3rd replacement I got died.

Note: Keep in mind they do not renew the one year warranty with a replacement. Your warranty is based on the original purchased date.

So I went else where (Amazon) to get ANOTHER battery replacement. But again, great repair vids!

Edward - 返信

Very disappointed. The replacement went well (I ordered and used the whole kit). But now after calibrating twice and checking with coconut mattery, the new battery does not reach the guaranteed 8200 mAh, but not more then ca. 90% of its designed capacity…far from the guaranteed 8200 mAh.

Jonas - 返信

Geschafft!

Zunächst wurde der Akku nicht erkannt. Ich musste den Akkustecker dreimal neu aufsetzen.

Aber jetzt funktioniert alles perfekt!

Zur Anleitung:

Ich würde es vorziehen, wenn es eine Anleitung gäbe, die ohne den Ausbau der Ventilatoren und des Motherboards auskäme.

Generell hätte ich mir gewünscht, das die Verbindungen in den Fotos größer dargestellt werden und die Zugrichtung präzisier angegeben wird. Eventuell auch durch einen roten Pfeil im Foto direkt.

Die für mich schwierigsten Punkte waren im Einzelnen:

5. Schritt: Airport-/Camerakabel (Sehr tricky. Man weiß nicht recht, wo ansetzen und was die Verbindung aushält).

24. Schritt: Displayfolien"stecker" (Sowohl das Herausziehen und besonders das wieder einstecken ist sehr schwierig. Ich habe die Folie mit der beigelegten Pinzette gepackt und letztlich hineingestossen. Immer mit der Angst, die feinen Kontakte zu beschädigen. Ist zum Glück gut gegangen).

Danke, trotzdem, für die Anleitung. Ohne hätte ich das gar nicht bewältigt.

Robert Kaiser - 返信

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