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MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換

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  1. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換, 底ケース: 手順 1、 1の画像 1
    • MacBook Proの底ケースに固定されているP5ペンタローブネジを取り外します。

    • 3.0 mmー8本

    • 2.3 mmー2本

    To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

    lantzero - 返信

    The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

    Mike -

    Just be careful to store the 2 shorter screws in a seperate space then the other 3mm screws.

    The first time I opened up my Macbook, I put the screws in the wrong order.

    Shahzad Arif -

    Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

    didierma - 返信

    If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

    iyeori - 返信

    It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

    floyd - 返信

    Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

    Emilio Mejia - 返信

    I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

    Alvaro Suarez - 返信

    Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

    Jose David Valle -

    Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

    Bert0ld0 -

    Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

    Walt Goede - 返信

    Not sure if this has been listed.

    PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

    1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

    2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

    3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

    4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

    5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

    erin - 返信

    Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?

    Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…

    Michael Ferenduros - 返信

    So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.

    Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.

    The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.

    Your milage may vary, obviously.

    Michael Ferenduros -

    I changed the battery pack as well without removing the logic board etc. It helped, that the batteries already were swollen, thus access to the glue stripes was easier. It works, if you give a little tension, pulling a pack upwards, and then work with a small blade or knife, and cut the glue stripes. It may take a while, but much less time than dismantling the whole macbook. If you don’t hurry, and don’t apply too much force, you will not damage anything. Beside the 10 cover screws you only have to loose 2 screws for the battery connector. After removing the old pack I used Methanol to remove the glue. I prefer this solvent to Acetone, because it’s less or not harmful to plastic (however, no warranty, just my personal experience). I was able to finish the work in 40 minutes, although it was the first time I opened my Macbook. Well, I am an engineer, that helps, but with dismantling all boards it definitely would have taken double the time. And more risks to break a plug or make a mistake while reassembling.

    Heinrich Jung -

    Success. I needed to replace the right speaker. I thought I was ready at step 22 (you are able to replace the left speaker at this point… but but the right) To replace the right I continued thru step 29 but didn’t completely remove the motherboard. I just lifted it enough to remove and replace the right speaker cable.

    Read all of the comments and solved many problems. Thanks to I-fixit, Walter Galen and all who posted comments.

    Will Brecht - 03/02/2019

    Will Brecht - 返信

    1/2

    If you're taking the shortcut (nylon, wire…and no adhesive for battery removal (you'll def need to remove the adhesive once the battery pack is removed) things to note:

    1 The adhesive may still be pretty strong. Mine was and I broke several wires trying to do the cheese cutter move down the back of the middle two batteries

    2 if you're cheese cutting through the adhesive, when you get to the base, don't go too far. I did and severed the battery cell connector… disconcerting puff of smoke.

    Ruairi Kennedy - 返信

    If you get a puff of smoke removing a bad battery which is going to be replaced it really doesn’t matter, its being replaced.

    robert -

    2/2

    3 the you tube video dude was lucky not to have his two Central batteries adhered . Mine were stuck fast.

    4 don't forget about the two small T 5 screws to the left and right of the battery head board, just below the main battery connector.

    5 the Track Pad sits behind the two central batteries. The batteries are adhered to a flat plate that protects the Track Pad which is pretty resilient. You can do the cheese wire trick without cutting through anything you shouldn't. However be careful if you're using a spudger or other tool between the two centre batteries at the top of the T. This is where the Track Pad connector (its very flat and exposed) to the motherboard.

    6 seems obvious when it's written , but you will need the adhesive remover if you are interested in removing the adhesive. It's a work out.

    Ruairi Kennedy - 返信

    I just completed this successfully. The guide was great, and I recommend reading each of the steps’ comments, too. It is possible to cut out a majority of the steps outlined here if you’d rather not dismantle most of your laptop. As I’m a novice and this was the first difficult fix I’d ever tried, the idea of taking so many things apart — including removing the logic board — was a little scary. Everyone calculates risk and reward differently, but for me, the risk of removing the logic board for the reward of being able to remove the battery packs with adhesive remover was too great, so I opted to only do steps 1–4, 42–53 and removed the battery with one of the cards from iFixit’s kit. If you go this route, expect it to be a little frustrating & slow going — it took me around 20–30 minutes of slowly chipping away at the adhesive with only the card. There are other techniques out there (wire, fishing line, etc.) and I’d advise looking into them. Keep track of screws: tape, draw out diagrams, label them, etc.

    Jake Thornberry - 返信

    I only removed the 10 screws and the back panel, the 5 speaker’s screws (without removing the speakers), and the two battery screws, and managed to remove the battery package without undoing anything else. I used a member card (credit card type) to loosen the adhesives under the batteries.

    To remove the rest of the glue, I soaked it with something called Label Off from Biltema (Nordic). Finally, I used methylated spirit (rødsprit) to clean it all up and let it dry for 5 minutes before assembling the new battery pack.

    Andreas H. Parlow - 返信

    I have now replaced the battery and the dc-in board, and I still can’t get the battery to charge. I also bought a new magsafe power adapter. It appears all cables are connected, and the computer runs fine on the battery (until it runs out of juice, then I will be at a complete loss). No clue what to try next. Any suggestions? Thanks!

    matt rogers - 返信

    Why do you need to remove the entire logic board??? Seems like if you detach the appropriate cables, remove the speakers, that that should be enough. Removing the entire board doesn’t seem necessary - what am I missing?

    Sandwah - 返信

    What on earth are you talking about? This has nothing to do with the logic board.

    Trevor Picard -

    The speaker cables are routed under the logic board, or at least the right-side one is. I found that if you can undo the fastenings on one side of the logic board you MIGHT be able to lever it up and work the speaker wire out without taking the entire thing out.

    bobthrollop.redirect -

    MacBook Pro 15“ 2014:

    if the keyboard is connected nothing works. I disconnected the keyboard and the MacBook was starting automatically. An external usb keyboard is not working either. Is something on the logic board defective or is this failure (usb keyboard not working) because of the disconnected keyboard and the system is confused?

    any idea for this?

    ps: the battery is loading

    Pättes - 返信

    MacBook Pro 15” Mid 2012

    I had the exact same symptom upon initial completion. The keyboard ribbon is actually 2 pieces on mine. There is a plastic cover sheet (that I tried to use as the ribbon the first time) and then there is the actual ribbon sheet. The keyboard works perfectly now that I have the actual ribbon sheet inserted into the the ZIF connector.

    It took entirely too long. I was being very careful. Recovery of the keyboard took me less than an hour. I don’t want to admit how long the original work took me.

    I hope you already have yours working. I was very careful due to not having an alternate device for my son to use if the work had failed. The other likely point of failure for the keyboard is damage to the ribbon as it goes under the battery pack. I caught myself almost poking too hard on that spot.

    EEM -

    You should more clear explain that it is possible to skip the steps 5-35 in the beginning explanation text.

    ( I lost many time to remove parts and there is also more risk to destroy some connectors ?‍♂️)

    Muescha - 返信

    Like many others here, I completed the battery replacement by skipping steps 5-52 and instead removing the battery cells with the “cheese cutter” method. I made my cutter from 20# braided monofilament tied to two 4” wooden dowels (3/8” diameter). I carefully applied 97% isopropyl alcohol to the taut mono with a small artist’s brush. I took my sweet time cutting through the glue, but all in all not too difficult, just tedious. I was super careful and mindful of the fire and explosion hazard, and took necessary precautions. One thing to be careful of using the cheese cutter method is to be sure the mono is is really under the cell package and not just in front of it before sawing away. There are some tight spaces that make this tricky. Once the battery was out I used the iFixit acetone to clean up the glue leftover by carefully applying drops on the strips and letting capillary action take over. After waiting about five minutes, the glue strips could be picked up with the supplied tweezers.

    Acme Nerd Games - 返信

    Hallo Leute, hab das Akku eben erfolgreich bei meinem MacBook getauscht ohne alles vorher auszubauen. WICHTIG: kein ACETON zum Kleber lösen verwenden! Sonst gehen die Lautsprecher kaputt! Auch kein Orangenpower oder ähnliches! Man nehme sich ein dünnes hochzugfestes Nylonband (oder Zahnseide geht auch) und schneide damit die alten Klebepads sägebandmäßig los.

    Also:

    In der Hoffnung mich so klar wie möglich auszudrücken war das Folgende meine Vorgehensweise:

    1. Deckel ab, Achtung die Schrauben mittig unterm Bildschirm sind kürzer!

    2. Akkustecker trennen und vorsichtig umbiegen

    3. die 2 Schrauben, die die Batterie in der Nähe des Steckers halten losschrauben

    4. nun mit zugfestem Band die Akkus rausschneiden

    die im Fix-Kit beigelegten Spatel können dabei unterstützen

    die übrigbleibenden Klebereste können einfach mit einem der Plastikwerkzeuge abgemacht werden: erst ein bisschen mit einem Spatel vorarbeiten, sodass man es mit seinen Fingen greifen kann, dann langsam und Richtung weg vom Logikboard vorsichtig abziehen.

    Jérôme Achilles - 返信

    Was dann noch an Kleberesten übrigbleibt, kann wegen mir auch bleiben. Sonst mit 1-2 Tropfen Lösemittel auf ein Microfasertuch geduldig nach und nach wegwischen. Und Wirklich nur WENIGE TROPFEN verwenden! Sonst gehen die Lautsprecher wohlmöglich kaputt.

    5. Mithilfe von Druckluft (2-3 bar! nur) nun sämtlichen Staub vorsichtig rausblasen. VORSICHT: Die Lüfter dürfen sich dabei nicht drehen! Die erzeugen sonst Spannung und grillen wohlmöglich das Logikboard!

    6. Neues Akku (Folien dabei vom Akku entfernen) reinsetzen und gleich an die Schraubenlöcher ausrichten.

    7. Die 2 Schrauben für die Batterie reinschrauben und mit Gefühl anziehen.

    Die packs einzeln auf ihren richtigen Sitz hin prüfen

    8. Wenn alles sauber ist und alles richtig sitzt, dann den Batteriestecker wieder auf das Logikboard stecken

    9. Deckel drauf. Der Deckel muss von alleine, ohne Schrauben richtig in seiner Ausfräsung liegen. Steht irgendeine Ecke hoch, ist darunter was verkehrt.

    Jérôme Achilles - 返信

    10. Deckel festschrauben. ACHTUNG: 2 Schrauben sind kürzer auf der Seite des Bildschirms!

    Missverständnisse kann ich nicht ausschließen. Darum folgt ihr dieser Anleitung bitte nur auf eigenes Risiko. Ich übernehme keine Haftung für Schäden! Viel Erfolg!

    Jérôme Achilles - 返信

    Hi guys, just successfully replaced the battery on my MacBook without removing everything first. IMPORTANT: do not use ACETON to loosen the glue! Otherwise, the speakers will be broken! Also no orange power or similar! Take a thin high-tensile nylon tape (or dental floss also works) and cut the old adhesive pads loose. Similarly as with a saw tape.

    So:

    Hoping to express myself as clearly as possible, the following was my procedure:

    1. remove the lid, beware that the screws in the center under the screen are shorter!

    2. disconnect the battery connector and carefully bend it over

    3. unscrew the 2 screws that hold the battery near the plug

    4. now cut out the batteries with tension-proof tape

    the spatulas included in the fix-kit can help you to do this

    the remaining glue can be easily removed with one of the plastic tools: first work a little bit with a spatula so that you can grip it with your fingers, then slowly and carefully pull it off in a direction away from the logic board.

    Jérôme Achilles - 返信

    Whatever glue remains can stay because of me. Otherwise, patiently wipe away little by little with 1-2 drops of solvent on a microfiber cloth. And really only use FEW DROPS! Otherwise, the speakers may break.

    Now carefully blow out all dust with compressed air (2-3 bar! only). CAUTION: The fans must not rotate! Otherwise, they will generate voltage and possibly fry the logic board!

    Insert the new battery ( thereby remove the foils from the battery) and align it to the screw holes. 7.

    Screw in the 2 screws for the battery and tighten them with feeling.

    Check the packs individually for proper fit

    8. if everything is clean and everything fits correctly, put the battery connector back on the logic board.

    9. put the lid on. The cover must lie correctly in its groove by itself, without screws. If any corner is sticking up, there is something wrong underneath.

    Jérôme Achilles - 返信

    10. screw the cover. ATTENTION: 2 screws are shorter on the side of the screen!

    I cannot exclude misunderstandings. Therefore, please follow these instructions only at your own risk. I assume no liability for damages! Good luck!

    Jérôme Achilles - 返信

    Another vote for skipping step 34 after step 4. When I tried to reinstall the new battery, I couldn't get the two step 34 screw holes lined up and still be able to connect the battery cable, so I just left them out. Also, one of the bottom cover screws went AWOL.


    I think that anyone with a badly swollen battery can skip to 34 because the battery has already done a lot of the work. I doubt that I used more than a dozen drops of remover, if that. A bit of patience and careful work with dental floss did the trick. Maybe 30-40 minutes to get the old battery out and another 10 to peel off the remaining adhesive.

    schendel - 返信

    Like most have suggested here, definitely read through all of these comments! I learned valuable tips from other commenters above that made this repair easy. Also like many others here, I opted to skips the majority of steps, and instead focused on steps 1-4, 36-53. When removing the small screws from the back plate, make sure to keep them organized and away from the computer. Because they are slightly magnetic, one of the tiny top middle screws magnetized to the MagSafe charger port my my Mac and I spent 20 minutes thinking it fell on the floor.

    I had a nylon thread handy to get some of the packs started. Even with applying the adhesive remover, I found the plastic card iFixit provides was not always strong enough to get the pack started. Cheese cutter method was all it needed to get started!

    Make sure to elevate your Mac when applying the remover in whatever direction you want the remover to run. Make sure to test new battery before committing to the new adhesive in case it is faulty!

    Good luck!

    Patrick King - 返信

    At step 9, when reinstalling the io board cable, make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all. It took me hours to find my mistake...

    Pierre Arnaud - 返信

    This is just a suggestion or two to help those that might be doing this for the first time.

    1. Separate your screws by the component they came from, i.e. cover screws altogether, fan screws altogether etc. I used PostIt notes turned upside down and put the screws head down to hold them in place and then marked what they were and where they came from.

    2. If you have enough work space put the component next to the screws that were removed. Then you have everything located for an easy reinstall.

    Steve Rowe - 返信

    The photographs in this guide show two slightly different MacBook Pro 15" Retina machines being disassembled, probably because the guide has multiple authors, and there is a subtle but very important difference between them. Look at the photo in Step 55. This shows the old battery being lifted out of the machine, it has six cells, and the battery connector is located in the centre of the top edge of the battery between cells 3 and 4. Now look at the photo in Step 3. This shows a battery connector which is offset by about 3cm and is above cell 4, not between cells 3 and 4. I believe the offset battery connector is from a mid 2012-early 2013 MacBook and the central battery connector is from a late 2013-mid 2014 MacBook. This is important because if you have the wrong battery, it won't work because the connector won't reach the socket. I found this out to my cost when I bought a battery which the seller told me was the right one, it turned out to be the wrong one, and then I couldn't return it.

    Peter Gray - 返信

  2. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換: 手順 2、 1の画像 1
    • クラッチカバー付近の端を持ち上げて、MacBook Proの底ケースを外します。

    • 底ケースを脇に置きます。

    Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

    jamiegan835 - 返信

    I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

    Tim Peat -

    I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

    This is a "PC" habit.

    On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

    I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

    Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

    crus - 返信

    Hey,

    Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..

    Regards

    Jose David Valle -

    This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

    Andrew Fox -

    I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

    Thanks for help.

    c4rlosv8 - 返信

    There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

    Tim Peat -

    If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.

    auntialias - 返信

    There are a couple of small rectangular magnets (~ 1/2” long) that are sitting in pockets near the battery warning label. (One is visible in the Step 3 pic.) One of these left its pocket and was stuck to the bottom cover when I lifted it.

    Jon Scott - 返信

    i had no idea my battery was swollen until i opened the back case to replace it. the back popped up right away on its own as soon as i took the screws out.

    elyze - 返信

  3. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換, バッテリーコネクタ: 手順 3、 1の画像 1
    • バッテリーコネクタを覆っている注意書きラベルを剥がします。

    For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

    iyeori - 返信

    Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

    g000phy - 返信

    Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

    max damage -

    This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

    One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

    Hope that helps!!

    ~the more you know~

    Colin Devenney - 返信

    I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.

    Achilles - 返信

    I've found that it's actually better to NOT remove the sticker. I wish I had skipped that 'peel off the sticker part' ugh

    Miles Raymond -

    There is another connector here on mine, just to the left and up above the text on the battery sticker. It is an empty ZIPF socket on all these photos.

    Richard C - 返信

    Let me stop you guys here. You can skip steps 5-35.

    That’s what I did without a problem.

    Go directly to step 35 after the next step. 5-35 is only so you have more room to pry the old battery off.

    If you are not keeping the old battery, then just pry it off with a flathead screwdriver.

    This is not a difficult fix.

    Chris - 返信

    Chris,

    Thank you for providing the advise to skip several steps. I agree that you will have ample space to remove the old battery without removing everything else. I would like to provide a small correction in your directions. You will need to go to step 34 to remove the two screws holding the battery cable versus directly to step 35. You will not be able to completely remove the battery without this step.

    Laurence Rooks -

    I successfully followed all the instructions and all the steps in this guide. I installed the new battery successfully. However, looking back at the process now, I have no idea why I had to take out the memory, air card, speakers, fans, and motherboard to change the battery. None of that was necessary. I did it, and it worked out for me, but honestly, if you just want the battery out, do what Chris and Laurence said above me. Go straight to step 34.

    matthew.toledo - 返信

    Again, that label will loose its stickyness... order B09WMWH3LM from Amazon so you can reglue - a little smear on both parts, let it dry a few seconds and join them. Done. ... a little will go a long way.

    Alex De Lara - 返信

    I agree that this entire procedure is unnecessarily complex, unless you’d like to disassemble your entire laptop for the sheer fun of it. The point of all the disassembly is to avoid damage to other components from the adhesive remover. So what I did was not to pry at all, no leverage whatsoever, no strain on the battery cells. Instead, I simply slid the provided plastic scraper cards underneath the batteries from every side possible to begin removing the adhesive. Then I put one drop of the remover on each side of the card at the front edge so it was barely wet, slid it in and worked it deeper bit by bit…. When I got near the speakers, I pulled the screws, lifted them slightly, and wedged one of the picks under the long arm coming off each speaker to give it a few mm clearance from the case, so no remover/alcohol could wick underneath. That worked well for me; the hardest part was getting all the old adhesive off the case, which just took some careful soaking. Good luck! .

    Tor Matson - 返信

  4. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換: 手順 4、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換: 手順 4、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターの接続部分を基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐ引き上げます。

    • バッテリーケーブルを後ろ側に折り曲げ、バッテリーコネクタがアクシデントで基板に接触しないように確認してください。

    I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

    Joel Replogle - 返信

    So no need basically to unscrew all the mac

    Bert0ld0 -

    The best tool for battery removal for any glued in Apple batteries is a 6" PLASTIC puddy knife 1.5" or 1" in width. It is strong. It has a bit of a sharp edge to cut the glue. It is long enough to slide all the way from top to bottom on the middle cells and from the side to get the 2nd from the right and 2nd from the left out. Wear gloves doing this and eye protection. I've use the Nylon twine method also without removing the logic board, but that is a pain to get started. I just take the screws of of the speaker, lift them up, don't remove and go to work with the puddy knife.

    Chapman Gleason -

    Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

    REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

    Jer - 返信

    I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.

    Thomas Horan - 返信

    Couldn't agree more: use a wire to cut the glue. No need to remove anything else (I did remove the SSD for peace of mind). I used a thin metal wire, without the help of adhesive remover, wrapping it around two sticks to hold it (as pulling with your fingers is painful!). Took longer to clean the residue than to cut the glue!

    I'm not so mad with Apple's repairability considering that this method is viable.

    Eric Rannaud -

    Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.

    James Suojanen - 返信

    I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:

    1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.

    2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.

    3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide

    4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath

    5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries

    (continued)

    steve - 返信

    6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.

    7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.

    8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.

    Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.

    Worked perfectly.

    Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...

    Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.

    steve - 返信

    cool.

    removed everything and have now 88% after 2 times calibrating and smc reset

    wouldn’t have liked to do everything again, but this seems like a possible solution :)

    Dennis Britsch -

    i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.

    manu - 返信

    Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.

    One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !

    John Joslin - 返信

    I skipped steps 5-33. These steps are completely unnecessary. I used the back of a flat tweezers to separate the battery from the case.

    support64 - 返信

    so the only reason they are taking all the stuff off before the battery is because of the solvent?

    I used cards and dental floss and just took the battery out … It was a pain in the butt but i got it out with out using the solvent remover solution.

    GR Verner - 返信

    I skipped steps from 5 to 33 and directlychanged the battery (before disassembling all). Worked fine.

    derdietrich - 返信

    I also skipped all the additional disassembly. I used cards and wire to cut through the adhesive quite easily. I also did not apply any tape on the new battery. The Mid-2014 laptop seems slim and tight enough to keep the cells from moving and the two screws at the power connector area seem to stabilize the connection and battery as a whole. Such STRONG tape seems unwarranted for the amount of squirm room in such a tight compartment.

    P.S. Remember, while you have it open, clean, clean, clean!!!

    jyee - 返信

    Speaking of the power connector screws, I accidentally screwed down the R speaker flat cable on reassembly, which caused the speaker to malfunction. On finding that, I re-routed slightly and the speaker worked fine, this time, but I recommend being extra careful with that cable when putting things back together. You really do have to remove most everything to replace speakers!

    WillUseSpudger -

    Thanks guys for all the tips. I followed the pragmatic way of cutting short and really taking battery out only. Thanks to the cards it worked well and none of the liquid made it to any other part of the computer. Put some efforts in to properly clean the remaining glue after battery was out - but looked good and this message comes from the old mid 2012 15” Retina modell - but with the new battery in - and all is fine. I am happy - thanks to the short cut encouragement.

    Jochen Färber - 返信

    Also skipped steps from 5 to 32. I used the supplied cards and a piece of string, i.e. braided nylon twine, (thickness 24). and used supplied acetone sparingly, mostly to the middle section. It took one and a half hours and another half hour or so for removing the leftover goo. It was demanding but not challenging, just take it slow and steady.

    jkobli - 返信

    Learnt a lot from former comments. Also skipped steps from 5 to 54. Used fishing line to cut through adjective by myself easily, but needed to put on glove to protect hands. I didnt order full package, so used nail polish remover and eraser to clean the base. Looks good and all is fine! Thanks to the short cut method!

    Gerry GU - 返信

    If you decide to skip to Step 34 or 52 or whatever, at least take note of Step 50. This is the only place I saw reference to the thin metal plate protecting the trackpad. I also skipped to just pulling out the batteries, but this plate came out with the them. I had to carefully pry it off the old batteries, reinstall it, and clean the adhesive residue off it.

    Also, YMMV, but I did not bother with delicately removing the old batteries with fishing line, loosening with solvent, or whatever. They’re going in the trash (ahem, recycling) anyway, so I pried them out with a screwdriver, using the neighboring cell as a fulcrum. 98% of the adhesive remained with the batteries, leaving very little residue in the case.

    Jon Scott - 返信

    I also forwent the many steps to protect components from the isopropyl alcohol. Blocking the back of the computer up an inch or so meant that any spill would run down and away from the logic board, which actually helped loosen the adhesive. I felt that disconnecting so many parts was a greater risk with no real benefit so long as care was employed in the use of the alcohol. Using some twine in a sawing motion behind each battery got through the adhesive without trauma. The entire repair was actually very simple and fast. The toolkit is excellent and well worth buying from iFixit. The machine is now working really well again. Worth fitting a new SSD now.

    Simon Morice - 返信

    Info for assembly: you have place it from top into to connector - watch out for the guidegroove/pimple .

    Not horizontal from battery side (as it seems my first try)

    Muescha - 返信

    Success! I ordered the whole kit and thought I would do all these steps below. But instead I just unplugged the battery and skipped all the steps up to step 36. For getting loose the old glued in battery I used waxed dental floss, it is strong and easily available. I strung it around two wood pieces and wired it around the underside of the batteries, then slowly pulled it downwards till the end. This worked quite well and after 10 minutes all the 6 batteries were free. Now the ‘fun’ part, cleaning up the old adhesive strips. I used the little bottle of alcohol from the kit but found this not the best cleaning solution. Be warned, dont forget that in this position, directly under your downpressing fingers there is the glass trackpad and the display!! I really was scared to break them during this cleaning process. Because of this I switched to LIGHTER FLUID , which is stronger and the process quickly proceeded. Thanks ifixit for your great support.

    Jamba - 返信

    I had to replace my replacement battery ... luckily the ifixit adhesive isnt that overpowered ... ehem ... I just pulled the old one out softly ... used the plastic card, some force ... and build the hopefully-this-time-lasting-longer-than-4-month-new-battery in ... it saved my evening.

    Arne Fischer - 返信

    I just finished doing my second battery replacement on one of these. If you're replacing a battery that came from iFixit you can skip straight to step 34 and use cards/spudgers/guitar picks to remove the batteries. The adhesive on the iFixit batteries isn't nearly as tenacious as the original Apple adhesive (though it's plenty to keep the battery stable) and it was easy to pop the battery segments out with a spudger and peel up most of the excess adhesive strips. What little was left came off easily by putting small amounts of the solvent on paper towel and rubbing - no need to pour any amount of solvent into the case.

    lindensmith - 返信

    When it's time to install the new battery, bend the wires a little more to make a "U" shaped down curve...

    Alex De Lara - 返信

    The acetone bottle shown runs the risk of dispensing a lot of solvent - which may well damage the speaker plastic. I used a 5 ml plastic pipette to deliver small controlled amounts and had no problems removing the battery without having to take everything else out :-) I also used propanol (isopropyl alcohol) on some kitchen towel to remove the adhesive residue from the case - slightly less effective than acetone, but doesn't dissolve the plastic :-)

    Jon Harris - 返信

    I took the good advice of all you previous commenters and skipped to step 34.

    I did not have any solvent but it just took some careful patience prying up the battery with a couple plastic cards.

    elyze - 返信

    I used a guitar string ( high e 9 gauge) and a pair of thin leather gloves (to protect hands ) and after using tweezers to get it behind the batteries I was able to pull thru/ cut thru the adhesive with relative ease .

    brian stoller - 返信

  5. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換, AirPort/カメラケーブル: 手順 5、 1の画像 1
    • ピンセットを使って、3本のAirPortアンテナケーブルをAirPortボード上のソケットを持ち上げて接続を外します。

    • ケーブルの接続部分はデリケートです。ソケットやケーブル上をこじ開けるのではなく、コネクタのみ持ち上げてください。

    • 再接続をする際は、コネクタの位置をソケット上に慎重に揃えてください。スパッジャーの平面側を使って、しっかりと押さえて装着します。

    will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

    Oleg Babko - 返信

    Yes, this voids your warranty.

    max damage -

    These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

    Alvin Chua - 返信

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    Macrepair SF -

    unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

    Arn Custodio - 返信

    The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

    joey - 返信

    Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

    Thomas Kunjappu - 返信

    Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.

    Jer -

    I would never remove those tiny plugs unless I absolutely have to. And we do not have to remove them, just the card itself…

    Jurgen -

    I looked at these plugs under a 8X lupe, since my 56-year-old eyes are not what they used to be. They are circular, so it’s more a question of just aligning the bottom with the top of the plug rather than angle. If I can do it, someone with better eyes can definitely do it.

    Sam Bortnick -

    After reading so many reviews on ifixit and other sites regarding the difficulty of replacing my MacBook Pro retina screen assembly, I was a bit nervous. Using this walk through made it super easy. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it!

    cabcpa - 返信

    Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!

    travismlive - 返信

    Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.

    Jer -

    @tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)

    IT’S UNNECESSARY TO DETACH THE 3 TINY CABLES FROM THE CARD, JUST DETACH THE AIRPORT CARD WITH IT’S CABLES ATTACHED BY GRABING IT FROM BOTH SIDES USING TWO FINGERS AND GENTLY SHAKE IT UNTIL IT DETACHES. THEN MOVE THE WHOLE THING A BIT ASIDE.

    THIS STEP IS ONLY NECESSARY TO MAKE WAY TO THE FAN CONNECTOR UNDERNEATH.

    There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:

    1)The rubber heat sink cover

    2 The AirPort/Camera cables

    3)The IO board cable

    All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?

    Itai -

    These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.

    ChrisMBP -

    travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!

    Jasper - 返信

    I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!

    Douglas Johnston - 返信

    Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.

    Douglas Johnston - 返信

    Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - 返信

    the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.

    Frederick Rae - 返信

    The three cables have different lengths. The longest should to the farthest pin, medium to middle, short to nearest.

    Sam Jomaa - 返信

    Also, having the right tools will make the job really easy. I used a spudger similar to the one recommended on this web site. But i had ordered a complete kit from amazon.com. I did not have any problem removing or re-attaching the pins.

    Sam Jomaa - 返信

    tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble

    Jon Ocampo - 返信

    Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.

    chuck60 - 返信

    I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!

    Achilles -

    Use leverage with tip of a spudger, it’s not that difficult to pry the cables.

    When you reassemble, use a tweezers to put the connector on the right position and push it down with a finger on the other hand.

    Grab the neck of the cable when using a tweezers.

    eskoo - 返信

    Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.

    Walt Goede - 返信

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    Macrepair SF - 返信

    Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?

    Chapman Harrison - 返信

    Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.

    Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.

    Chapman Harrison - 返信

    I skipped to step 34. Just pushed up the speakers so that they don’t touch the body.

    Sascha Gl Richy - 返信

    Can anyone help me? I would like to replace my speakers. Which steps can i skip?

    Manzil Monabber - 返信

    I have completed replacing my speakers and this step was not needed at all.

    Manzil Monabber - 返信

    I just completed the full screen assembly replacement with 90% success I guess. Like many others noted, this was the hardest step, and one them (leftmost) was extra hard, but I eventually got them all back in. However, I don’t have 5G wifi anymore. 2.4 g works fine, bluetooth works fine, and the screen, camera, and mic are all perfectly functioning. I just can’t connect to 5G wifi. Is there a fix for this?

    Aaron C - 返信

    Absolutely no need to take apart the whole thing, get some strong fishing line and slowly saw the adhesive away. Once the battery is out, (if you are prone to be clumsy just cover/ shield the rest of the computer, than use GOO GONE or the like waiting a couple minutes to scrape out the old adhesive. The only reason they make your take everything out is that they assume you are lazy and will be using the adhesive remover which could damage the rest of the computer if allowed to splatter etc. Just save your self some time and stress, get strong braided fishing line ( works way better than floss or string as it is of a smaller diameter and isn’t smooth and helps the sawing action), and work your way around each cell. This is still way shorter than removing the entire computer and much less likely hood of damaging sensitive connectors.

    Pia Paeh - 返信

    Agreed! Especially if you replace the batttery a second time with a less Apple-like adhesive.

    To prepare for a third time I actually covered parts of the adhesive pads with plastic film on the new battery. I figured that gluing it to the base where it is actually hooked behind the frame makes little sense.

    Cheers to everyone repairing good old things and keeping them alive!

    Jörg -

    Putting these 3 cables back was a lot of work. I bent the outer side of the middle cable, but was able to fix it with fine tweezers from the repair kit.

    olegpsh - 返信

    I did a screen replacement recently using this guide and the disassembly/assembly was fine - very good instructions. But when I turned on the machine there was a very fine flickering, snow-like interference, especially noticeable on black backgrounds. I assumed it was a faulty replacement screen and continued to use it. Recently, I had to change out the battery so I dissasembled the screen again to see if reconnecting it would fix the problem. Now it is perfect. I think the problem was that the left-most (shortest) airport cable connector was touching the black screw next to it on the board and shorting out. Be careful to position this connector well away from that screw.

    rumblefish - 返信

    I found placing the spunger under the part of the connectors AWAY FROM THE WIRE (top and/or side depending on which of the three you’re finessing), and then rocking them gently from side to side pops them out gently.

    MFMauceri - 返信

    I read the note above and managed to fold the card out of the way. I’d put it in a paper envelope to stop it touching anything as it flaps around. The bag also stops static build up and reminds you it’s there ! The wires on mine were held down with two strips of tape, the pointed spudger? pushed along the length of the wires widened the tape loop when I pushed firmly but carefully. Once widened, tweezers can open it fully .

    Simon Anthony - 返信

    I skipped the step of removing the airport antenna cables and removed the airport card with the cables since so many users said it was extremely hard to get the airport cables back on properly. By skipping the airport cable removal I save a lot of potential headaches and performing this task was not any more difficult to do.

    Timothy McDaniel - 返信

    I skipped steps 5 - 40 and removed the old battery with the plastic card and a palette-knife after heating the adhesive strips cautiously with a hair dryer. After that removing the adhesive strips with the solvent was by far the most time consuming part.

    Martin Zeilinger - 返信

    so what happens if you damage 1 of the 3 connectors because you didn’t read all the comments first? Does it work at all or just diminished wifi reception?

    Can someone at ifixit update the main instruction page to advise removing the airport card instead of the super fragile cables?

    Brandyn McKibben - 返信

    YOU DONT NEED ANY OF THIS!

    it is SO stupidly risky to remove all this. Who the HECK wrote this guide?!? Thank God I checked on youtube and found guys who did NOTHING of these steps and simply removed the battery in under 1 h.

    Silly Billy - 返信

    Steps 5-33 are not really needed if you are careful with the speakers, not to spill the fluid onto them. It saves a lot of time and potential dangerous operations. I did it without any problem.

    Cristian Caprar - 返信

    Please be extremely careful, I just ripped out one of the sockets for the cables. I fixed it with Tesa until I can buy a new Airport-Card.

    Josiah Lauer - 返信

    BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP both when disconnecting the cable connection points and while doing the reconnection. I damaged the J2 connector (Wi-Fi and Bluetooth are working just fine, though) while trying to reconnect it to the AirPort card. I’ll suggest, as others have here as well, to not disconnect the cables and just have them connected to the card the entire time as this is, IMHO, a completely unnecessary step to take while doing this whole procedure.

    Rafael Pérez - 返信

    Well, this is the step that (just through reading these comments) I decided NOT to fix my right speaker. Anytime I have to remove these delicate Airport and Camera wires and connections, I get very nervous. (I've done it before, successfully, on a MacMini [ugh; never again!] - just to replace the two slow HD with SSDs! What a hassle!

    I'll just my headphones or computer speakers through the headphone jack.

    Jonathan Paul Saltzman - 返信

    I'm an amateur, so what do I know - but to replace a battery I skipped this step, and all other steps until step 36, I've no idea why they include all these other steps for battery replacement. Literally all steps from 5 - 35 aren't needed.

    Andy M - 返信

    I broke the J0 connector when this reconnecting step. But Wi-Fi and Bluetooth functionality are still alive I don't know the reason why.

    ppop popy - 返信

    Pretty sure it is fine, but if you want stronger and further WiFi range, that 3rd connector is what gives you that.

    Cary B -

    Why do I have to remove the airport antennas?

    Cary B - 返信

    Surtout ne pas démonter les 3 connecteurs. Extraire la nappe camera/wifi sans enlever le 3 connecteurs. Les 3 connecteurs sont fragiles et très difficile à remettre. Dans mon cas, 2/3 des connexions sur la nappe sont HS.

    bruno Villers - 返信

    This is the point where you should say "No freaking way" and go watch this youtube video and save yourself a nightmare: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfHHIERH...

    There is absolutely no need for this repair to be this insanely convoluted.

    Donovan Rittenbach - 返信

  6. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換: 手順 6、 1の画像 1
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、カメラケーブルのプラグをファン側に押して、基板上のソケットから外します。

    • 画像のプラグには接点が6つありますが、モデルによっては接点が12個ある場合があります。どちらのソケットでも取り外す方法は同じです。

    • カメラケーブルのプラグが外しにくいと感じた場合は、ファンを覆っているカバーをめくってケーブルを扱い安くしてから、スパッジャーでプラグをソケットから外す方向に慎重に押しながらケーブルを慎重に引っ張って下さい。

    • 基板に対して平行に押してください。コネクタの一方をまず押してから、反対側を押して、ゆっくりと「歩く」ようにプラグをソケットから外してください。こじって持ち上げるとソケットを破損する恐れがあります。

    I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

    Sergey - 返信

    Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.

    bhayes9614 -

    This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

    mayer - 返信

    This tip worked for me.

    eskoo -

    If you are removing the right fan it is not necessary to unplug the camera cable. You can slip the fan out underneath the cable.

    noahtfu - 返信

    Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.

    kramerigor - 返信

    the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?

    micheleroger - 返信

    Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.

    Jason Amri -

    Push on the little wings, from right to left.

    Julian Wood - 返信

    This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables

    Jon Ocampo - 返信

    The instruction is not clear to me at all. Frankly the comments mentioning things make me uneasy about proceeding further.

    Ben Moore - 返信

    This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?

    Ryan Brown - 返信

    Did you ever get the fan to stop? how?

    Cyd Trice -

    It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.

    Jen Wells - 返信

    can you give guidance on the soldering? Im new to it and dont want to burn anything / especially the wrong thing!

    Cyd Trice -

    The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.

    Charles Lindauer - 返信

    The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.

    jerryl - 返信

    Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.

    Chuck Barton - 返信

    I used tweezers and the spudger. Take the point of the spudger and push on one side of the “dog ear” while supporting the other side with the closed tweezers on the cable side of the dog ear. (Could use a second spudger) work one side the move to the other repeatedly until the connection disconnects.

    This is allows You to push and support simultaneously and minimize the chance damaging the connector.

    Jonathan Dowling - 返信

    Removed cover (Step 7). Released adhesive. Pulled directly out of socket to the left.

    Pushing out of this connector is ill advised, as no mechanical ledge to push.

    Joseph Gorse - 返信

    The late 2013 Macbook connector is slightly different to the picture, I used tweezers to loosen up first and when the joint appeared used the flat edge of the spludger to push the connector using the gap. Don't rush push this from each side gently till it comes out.

    Lanre O - 返信

    I found this step to be difficult due to the picture and instructions being incorrect for MacBook Late 2013. Unfortunately, I damaged the pins during this step and my camera no longer works. :^( Please update this step.

    Cristina Stoll - 返信

    @xtstoll I looked at two separate Late 2013 units today, and both are indistinguishable from what’s shown in the instructions. Are you sure you’re working on the right model? A photo of what this cable looks like on your laptop would be helpful.

    Jeff Suovanen - 返信

    A MAGNIFYING GLASS really helps on this. The cable’s sheathing may need to be pushed back a tad to find a place to get leverace to work the pin out.

    MFMauceri - 返信

    DO FIRST

    STEP 7 : Untight the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.

    Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

    STEP 8 : Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

    So you can easily disconnect the connector.

    KRIS - 返信

    Tweezers saved me on this one! Take your time and keep trying (gently) if you're still struggling

    Elizabeth Jolly - 返信

    gently set pointed tweezers at the ears on either side and walk it back toward the fan

    Christa - 返信

    I have jewellers glasses and they were so helpful. Without them I would have broken plenty of bits. I really recommend getting some magnification for this job, some of the bits are sooooo small!

    Gordon Young - 返信

    I have a late 2013, and using the tweezers to gently create a gap worked excellently. I used the tip of the spudger to push it out the rest of the way, alternating right and left on the edge exposed by the gap, pushing gently even when it wasn’t apparent there was any movement.

    Troy Hall - 返信

    The way I did it took less than a minute. Ensure the AirPort card is not in place on the board. Get a pair of tweezers to squeeze the ends of the cables into each holder on the card. Apply pressure on the back of the card and the cable end at the same time. If it works, the cables will swivel easily in their slots. Then put the AirPort cable into the board.

    Michael Stroh - 返信

    I did it in less than a minute. Used a pair of tweezers. First thing is to take out the AirPort card from the slot. Hold it in one hand while using the tweezers to squeeze each of the cable ends into their sockets. Ensure that you are squeezing the back of the card at the same time as you are clipping in the cable ends. You will see that each cable end will swivel around and not come out of their sockets.

    Michael Stroh - 返信

    As per other comments, recommend referring to steps 7 and 10 before attempting step 6.
    I found it helpful to remove the airport card first, then use tweezers to gently pull cable 0.5 m from socket, then use pointy end of "spudger" to push connector out of socket.

    Tim Telcik - 返信

    This is the point where you should say "No freaking way" and go watch this youtube video and save yourself a nightmare: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfHHIERH...

    There is absolutely no need for this repair to be this insanely convoluted.

    Donovan Rittenbach - 返信

  7. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換: 手順 7、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換: 手順 7、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換: 手順 7、 3の画像 3
    • 右側ファン上にあるゴム製ヒートシンクカバーの下にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込みます。

    • スパッジャーをカバー全体にスライドしながら、接着剤を剥がします。

    • カバーを持ち上げて、裏返します。これで下にあるケーブルにアクセスできます。

    Back (case) side of rubber attachment is flimsy-ish, so need to be delicate when peeling rubber back.

    cahcadden - 返信

    assume everything is delicate and needs to be worked gently.

    Christa -

    True @cahcadden.

    Worst case you could accidentally tear it off

    (thank god, that didn’t happen to me, but belive me —> it was a close call)

    Shahzad Arif - 返信

    The glue will be gone, don't fret about it. You can just let it flap back when you are done, you can order this item from Amazon: B09WMWH3LM - contact shoes glue.. A little smear on both parts goes a long way. In my case I already had the stuff from other things I fixed for my wife.

    Alex De Lara - 返信

  8. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換: 手順 8、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換: 手順 8、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換: 手順 8、 3の画像 3
    • 指先を使って、AirPort/カメラケーブルをファンから引っ張ります。

    • ケーブルはファンに接着剤で固定されています。そのためダメージを与えないように、引っ張る際はゆっくりと丁寧に作業を進めてください。

    • 丁寧にプラスチックのケーブルガイドからケーブルを外します。

    It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.

    PriorityMail - 返信

    I used scotch tape to temporarily hold the cables in place until I was ready to reinstall the bottom cover, but I removed the tape at that last step (didn’t want it coming loose later, and possibly obstructing a fan).

    ChrisMBP - 返信

  9. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換, I/O ボードケーブル: 手順 9、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換, I/O ボードケーブル: 手順 9、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換, I/O ボードケーブル: 手順 9、 3の画像 3
    • I/Oボードケーブルのコネクタが、パッドに切り欠きがある場合、ケーブルを取り外すには、切り欠きの下にあるロックレバーを解除する必要があります。この場合、レバーのラッチが外れるまでコネクタをこじ開けないでください。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使用して、I/Oボードコネクタをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ上にこじ開けます。

    • 再組み立ての際には、ケーブルがたわまないように、この先端を先に接続してください。

    • 同様に、I/OボードのケーブルコネクターをI/Oボードのソケットから外します。

    • MacBook ProからI/Oボードケーブルを外します。

    Note that the Mac has been rotated 180º between steps 8 & 9

    peteyx - 返信

    When reinstalling the io board cable make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all.

    bitmat23 - 返信

    ABSOLUTELY ! I found out the hard way. I took a break, came back to me dead computer and wondered - if - this cable would fit the other way round - and voila ! I wish I had read this note first :-)

    Simon Anthony -

    i did exactly the same mistake! Same procedure as well: keep calm, and start again the tutorial.

    every thing work find now

    Guigui -

    Sockets are ZIF with releasing levers on the top. If you pull up on the top padding, you will reveal silver lever handels facing the rear of the machine. Pry up on the LEVER to release the pressure, then pull the lever straight up to release the connector from the socket. DO NOT pry under the edge of the connector to remove these or you may damage the ZIF socket. They may have changed these connectors between models, otherwise I don’t know how this was overlooked in the guide.

    hybrid - 返信

    Confirming, these are indeed zifs for me too. My padding has notches indicating location of lever needing to be raised. Obviously lever is tiny, look closely. If your padding is a clean rectangle as shown in guide, you may not have zif sockets here

    hamiltont -

    Confirmed; if the foam pieces are not perfectly rectangular, you should be able to pry back the side of the foam with the cut-away. It folds in half. You can see the lever under the foam. Lift the handle with the spudger, then when it’s pointing straight up (it flips up), you can lift up on the lever (straight up). This should be done for both ends.

    Patryk -

    Confirmed. These instructions (and photos) should definitely be added to the guide!

    Nathan Lucy -

    I just did this and there are no silver lever handles. The connectors just pop off when you pry on them.

    edc - 返信

    While putting back the I/O cable, I assumed that it just connects back in place with pressure, kind of like Velcro. I just pushed the one on the left down first as instructed, and, while doing so, folded down the tiny wire lever under the padding (As someone stated earlier, the wire lever isn’t on all models) along with it. It seem to go back in place fairly easily if you’re careful to align the two sides (the part under the cable with the part on the logic board). A a novice, I think this warrants being addressed in more detail. Kinda had to do this intuitively.

    Sam Bortnick - 返信

    There is adhesive under the cable. I twisted the cable parallel to the flat fan surface to break it without bending the cable.

    Nathan Lucy - 返信

    Yeah, and a strong adhesive.

    throughout all the repairs i have on my MacBook, I have put changing the right fam on the side, just because I was thinking there will be no way of removing the cable without damaging it.

    Soufiane Ezzine -

    I hope I didn't mess up (I'm still dismantling my MBP) but I didn't detach the cable from the fan housing. Disconnected from both ends, and it appeared contented to flop there in space. Fan was then removed without incident

    Fredrick Mezger - 返信

    you need to lift one side of the rubber/foam cover to reveal the lock

    Alex De Lara - 返信

  10. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換, Airportカード: 手順 10、 1の画像 1
    • ロジックボード上のAirPortカードに固定された2.9 mm T5トルクスネジを1本外します。

    I don't see why this is necessary just to remove the logic board...

    Miles Raymond - 返信

  11. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換: 手順 11、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換: 手順 11、 2の画像 2
    • AirPortカードの両側を摘み、浅い角度(5~10˚)で持ち上げて、ロジックボードに付着している接着剤から乖離します。

    • Air Portカードをロジックボード上のコネクタから水平に引き抜いて取り外します。

    As others have mentioned, it's not necessary to remove the Airport antenna cables. Leave the cables attached and remove the Airport card.

    Swing the card and the attached cables across the fan.

    stvn chng - 返信

    You may lift a little like few degrees then pull parallel when removing.

    eskoo - 返信

    There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.

    Tristan Harward - 返信

    Yes, lift about 5-10 degrees first, then pull out. If you do not release the adhesive, it may be stuck in place and you could damage the card trying to pull it out.

    hybrid - 返信

    I will add to what others have said about lifting the card lightly using a spudger to get the adhesive to let go of the board. Otherwise the card may get damaged.

    jeiboussa - 返信

    Yes. LIFT up slightly on one end to clear retaining pin before tugging.

    MFMauceri - 返信

    Yes. Slight lift to release adhesive and then pull out.

    David Choy - 返信

    Highly recommend attaching to your new logic board right away.

    bmellman - 返信

    I don't see why this is necessary just to remove the logic board...

    Miles Raymond - 返信

    I found it helpful to use the flat end of a "spudger" to gently lift airport card from the main board prior to unplugging.

    Tim Telcik - 返信

  12. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換: 手順 12、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換: 手順 12、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、右側ファンのリボンケーブルの ZIFソケット 上の固定フラップを持ち上げて裏返します。

    • 固定フラップのヒンジ部分をこじ開けてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。

    • 右側ファンケーブルの下に差し込んだプラスチック製の開口ツールをケーブル上部からスライドして、ロジックボードから解放します。

    • ケーブルを外す際はご注意ください。ロジックボードに多量の接着剤で固定されています。

    I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

    Alvin Chua - 返信

    My retaining flap just came off. Can you confirm your fan doesn't need it to function??

    Peter Ungacta, Jr. -

    Easier to do while removing fan.

    mayer - 返信

    ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.

    Don Steele - 返信

    I don’t know why, but I could pull the connector out & in without flipping up the flap. And fans are working flawlessly.

    eskoo - 返信

    The pictures were confusing to me so let me add some more context. There is a ZIF socket (Zero insertion force) being addressed in the first picture. This socket has a black top that is currently closed down on the socket. Using your tool you need to lift this flap up to release the wire underneath (This release happens in the second step). Hence only pull up on the black flap enough to make it go from horizontal to vertical (Swing flap). Neither picture shows it in the up position. Step 2, Picture 2, Then gliding your flat spudger, you goal is to lift the wire that was in the ZIF socket out by lightly lifting up on both the wire and the rubber cushion on top of it. Make sure you lift both. You are successful when both are lifted up and out and facing vertical instead of horizontal.

    Frank D - 返信

    Great clarification, thank you.

    Hunter Gallagher -

    Can anyone advise what to do if the ZIF socket pulls up from the logic board? I was gentle with it, but it pulled up anyway. The fan and ribbon are fine, but I’m worried this will require an expensive logic board repair.

    Jaysmi - 返信

    To really see which part of the ZIF socket has to be lifted up you should compare the pictures of step 10 and of step 12, preferably in its original size.

    Then you can see that the inner part of the ZIF has to be moved up, away from the batteries.

    Stephan Yaraghchi - 返信

    I managed to broke the side, thought this was pulling on sides mechanism to release, not just upwards. Luckily I managed to attach it and the fan is working.

    Josip Ricov - 返信

    Here is video how to open the ZIF socket. https://youtu.be/MQbqpWkCz94?t=360

    Ketut Sandiarsa - 返信

    Many thanks Ketut, that vid clip really helped!

    Paul Clarke -

    very appreciated!

    Alexis Quintana -

    Thank you… that vid is crisp!

    Erich Hentschel -

    Incredibly poor instructions!!! Thanks to the incorrect wording, I have just ruined the fan connector. There is NO lever. The cable gently slid out, after I borked it. I’m done with IFIXIT and the $@$*!& information. How about a little video clip inserted here. You guys can do better!

    Lorne Shantz - 返信

    Can anyone share how to put the retaining flap back onto the connector? Has anyone’s fan worked without it? My hinged retaining flap just slid off and it's extremely difficult to place it back on.

    Peter Ungacta, Jr. - 返信

    I found it easier to slide the flat end of the spudger tool in from the left side of the cable, near the 90 degree bend.

    Aimee Ness - 返信

    There’s no need to take off all this stuff. I’ve just disconnected the battery, used the glue remover and a dental floss to pull off the battery ✌?

    matteo lepore - 返信

    These instructions are pretty lacking for this step. In my case, for both the left and right fans, I did not need to flip up a retaining flap. I did not need to remove the airport card as I could sneak the ribbon cable out from underneath the airport card. There was a tiny bit of adhesive on the ribbon cable. Once that was worked free, I could slide the ribbon cable out of the connector (toward the screen hinge).

    Louis Kreusel - 返信

    To all those who complain about the quality of instructions given here, I find them so simple and clear, if you have problems following them you should be letting a repair shop or Apple do the repairs.

    robert - 返信

    I can recommend, after lifting ZIF clip, gently slide cable out of socket using "spudger" and/or need nose pliers.

    Tim Telcik - 返信

    I destroyed it. Now when the ZIP socket is off the board. Will I have chance to repair with a new or go on only with one fan function. It is so tiny to soldering that I guess the contact legs will connect together and cause a short circuit

    WeDoIt - 返信

    Took me step 28 to figure out the latch. its the rear of the connector

    Alex De Lara - 返信

  13. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換: 手順 13、 1の画像 1
    • ロジックボードに右側ファンを固定している次のネジを外します。

    • 4.4 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.9 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 5.0 mm T5トルクスネジ(2 mmカラー)ー1本

    With most parts, its easier to leave the screws in the holes parts they come off with, and have small containers or a layout to do this with so each major part does not get mixed up - too many similar but different screws!

    AES - 返信

    What I did to separate the different screws, is to take the top of the ifixit essentials-kit (which has lots of small spaces to hold screws) and picked a row of these spaces, which I marked for the cooling-fan screws. So basically I just sort them by lenth: The 5 mm on the top space, underneath it the 4,4mm, and at last the 3,9mm. That way I didn’t loose track, because I was working in tandem with this instruction.

    Shahzad Arif - 返信

    In my case, the 3.9mm screw was connected to a spacer that sat flush to the motherboard. I misplaced this spacer and had to take the computer apart twice to find it… Make sure not to lose it if you have one!

    Daniel Kirk - 返信

    I was able to stop at this step and jump ahead to removing the battery. I did this based on the fact that the batteries were extremely swollen and I could see that the adhesive strips below were already separated from the bottom quite a bit. In retrospect my wife had complained that the computer ran very hot in the vicinity of the batteries (not sure why) but that heat apparently diminished the adhesive properties and allowed me to slowly pry the cells up while using a spudger to push between the case and batteries. Saved twenty some odd steps by doing it that way. If the batteries weren’t swollen I could not have done it this way. NOTE: When ordering just the battery adhesive remover is NOT included. I did not order it because I have acetone here and felt I did not need the iFixit remover.

    Terry Angelli - 返信

    The inner spacers on both fans that appear to have been SMT'd to the logic board fell off. I used a light adhesive to put them back but be cautious not to drop them if yours detach also.

    L. Hille - 返信

  14. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 右側ファンの交換: 手順 14、 1の画像 1
    • MacBook Proから右側ファンを持ち上げて取り出します。

    • ファンを再装着する際は、3本のファン用ネジを装着した後にファンリボンケーブルを接続するよりも、先にファンを固定してからケーブルを接続する方が簡単です。

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

20 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

en jp

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4 件のコメント

doesn't look too bad, my right fan is making a terrible sound, I'm debating if I should bring it to apple or if I should just replace it myself

aaronchasemusic - 返信

pretty easy guide. i replaced the left fan recently, so i decided to do the right as well since it had been making the same grinding noise, albeit not quite as loud. the fans themselves were pretty clean, i’ve typically use a blast of compressed air to dust them out about once a month over the almost 5 years i’ve owned this MBP.

i skipped steps 3-4-5. and using some of the comments as guidance i was able to take a few short cuts and have the fan replaced in about 20 minutes. powered up the MB without the back cover just to make sure the fan would spin, it did, checked to make sure everything worked, internet, BT connection, camera etc, powered down, screwed on the back cover and done.

MacProUser - 返信

easy and fast. it took me 10 min to replace.

dmitrii-bocharov - 返信

Replaced batteries and RIGHT FAN. Made all connections. LEFT FAN runs and won't stop, whether connected with charge cord or running on batteries. Laptop will NOT start up. Disconnected LEFT FAN to save batteries. I'M STUMPED! :-(

keith maxwell - 返信

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