はじめに
Replaces the cable that connects the upper case, power button, trackpad, sleep sensor, bluetooth board, and keyboard to the logic board.
-
Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery, and lift the battery out of the computer.
-
Remove the three identical Phillips screws from the memory door.
Tip for new players - print this guide, then use Sello tape to tape the screws from each step on the picture. Keeps them all organised and easy to know which screws belong to which step when putting it all back together
MPB Monkey - 返信
Thanks a lot for this great advice. I followed it, and it turned out to be very useful and practical.
In regard to the incredible amount of TINY screws, get an Ice Cube Tray or something with AT LEAST 8 compartments, then, when taking out the screws, mark EACH compartment with the step # and how many screws that were taken out, and used for THAT STEP (such as Step # 3 = 4 of 4 screws. Label EACH compartment, and keep them in line of each step. When it comes time to put everything back together, just reverse your Ice Cube Tray, and follow the Steps in Reverse!
As far as marking each compartment, try these POST IT PENS!!!
http://www.staples.com/Post-it-Flag-Ball...
GOOD LUCK! Take your time, it's not as difficult as it seems!
JerseyJeepGurl
An ice cube tray is definitely the way to go!
This guide helped me to remove the keyboard on my MBP, but it doesn't take you further to take the keyboard apart. If you REALLY want to look inside the keyboard, you'll need to remove additional phillips screws (10), and carefully remove the inner plastic/clear layers inside the keyboard.
I did this to look for physical damage inside the keyboard and noticed that the black plastic? sheet was torn on my letter 'v', which was one of the keys not working. I did not see any physical sign anywhere else on the keyboard, though.
So, after pulling the defective keyboard away and installing the new one purchased from iFixit, putting everything back together is not too difficult, just reverse.
One thing, though: Check and double-check before you tighten the case screws to make sure your keyboard backlight is working. I noticed I had forgotten to plug it in, luckily for me before I put all the screws on the case.
To avoid losing any screws, print this guide and use clear tape to tape the screws next to the step. Use double-tape to avoid tearing or one of the tiny screws from falling out.
Good luck!
Thanks iFixit for helping me replace my MBP's keyboard!
juanortuno - 返信
This guide was awesome. I used JerseyJeepGurl's suggestion and used an egg carton, numbering each cavity as a step in the guide. So for a step that had me remove 3 different kinds of screws, I had a cavity for each, numbered: 1a, 1b, 1c and wrote a,b,c on the guide itself next to each bullet point in the step. It was awesome.
I guess that before starting I overlooked what a T6 torx actually was. I started this process at 8pm and realized right away that I did not have a set that small and of course all stores were closing. Lowes actually had an awesome fine torx driver set for only 7 bucks!
So that you fixit.
Quote from tech4eleven:
This guide was awesome. I used JerseyJeepGurl's suggestion and used an egg carton, numbering each cavity as a step in the guide. So for a step that had me remove 3 different kinds of screws, I had a cavity for each, numbered: 1a, 1b, 1c and wrote a,b,c on the guide itself next to each bullet point in the step. It was awesome.
I guess that before starting I overlooked what a T6 torx actually was. I started this process at 8pm and realized right away that I did not have a set that small and of course all stores were closing. Lowes actually had an awesome fine torx driver set for only 7 bucks!
So that you fixit.
Thank you everybody for "thanking me" on the compartment advice! Also, just about ANY Auto parts store will have a set of Torx Screw drivers, in a handy little set, that is all together. Good luck everybody,,remember,TAKE YOUR TIME, BREATH, AND DON'T GET FRUSTRATED!!! (STEALING ADVICE FROM PEARL JAM,,BREATH,JUST BREATH),,,,AND YOU'LL BE ABLE TO DO IT YOURSELF!
JJG
Quote from JerseyJeepGurl:
In regard to the incredible amount of TINY screws, get an Ice Cube Tray or something with AT LEAST 8 compartments, then, when taking out the screws, mark EACH compartment with the step # and how many screws that were taken out, and used for THAT STEP (such as Step # 3 = 4 of 4 screws. Label EACH compartment, and keep them in line of each step. When it comes time to put everything back together, just reverse your Ice Cube Tray, and follow the Steps in Reverse!
As far as marking each compartment, try these POST IT PENS!!!
http://www.staples.com/Post-it-Flag-Ball...
GOOD LUCK! Take your time, it's not as difficult as it seems!
JerseyJeepGurl
Quote from Michael Fredrickson:
I get a piece of "corrugated" cardboard and draw an outline of the laptop and all the "compartments" that are accessed. When you take a screw out simply punch it threw top layer of the cardboard exactly where it goes. Multiple compartments - just draw another diagram on the cardboard. Voila!
I just finished replacing my hard drive following these instructions and they were perfect. The only minor complication involved the ribbon cable connecting to the sleep light and IR sensor connectors. The entire cable was tightly glued to the hard drive. But I got it loose with 10 minutes of gentle prying with a spudger.
To keep track of the screws I just sketched an outline of the bottom panel, taped the screws in the right places and numbered them with the step numbers.
I just used that Glad Press' N Seal. I just cut a 4 in piece, cut slits in it to about half way, Put the screws on there, and fold the pieces over the screws. You can number them, i just kept track of them. Also, you might not need that much, i just cut that much just to be safe.
I use magnet
I use the magnet that close the refigerator door.
The screws are put on the magnet, so it didnot fall from the table.
i am french so sorry for my english
Madoc -
Just another idea for a container for all the little screws: pillbox. I got one for about $1.00 at the store with 14 compartments.
-
Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.
-
Remove the two 2.8 mm Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch.
-
Remove the following 6 screws:
-
Two 10 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.
-
Four 14.5 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.
-
-
Remove the four 3.2 mm Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.
"port side of the computer" should read "starboard side". It's on the right-hand side when the computer is positioned normally in front of you.
Port side as in I/O port side, as in the side that has the FireWire and ethernet ports. This is a MacBook, not a sailboat ;)
Maybe I'm too used to running flight simulators on my Macs. But to us sailors or pilots, it would perhaps be clearer if the instructions mentioned "I/O port side" as Andrew did above.
Honestly, it never crossed my mind that 'port' refered to in/out…
-
Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two 3.2 mm Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.
-
Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four 3.2 mm Phillips screws from the side of the computer.
In my machine the screw closest to the power connector had a slightly thicker head, and would not sit flush, upon reassembly, unless it was returned to the same hole.
-
Lift up at the rear of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case (there are some hidden plastic clips that need to be clicked off).
I had already done this once and now have a larger SSD to put in and cannot get past this step as the back just will not pop off. In fact- the front comes off fine but the back, where you cannot get the spudger, is "glued" or wedged solid. I suspect that the rear screw tabs have jammed. :(
I would not rock the case up and back. There are 4 plastic connectors that need to come loose, start on the left side with a spudger about a quarter of the distance from the edge and pop them up from left to right, one by one.
maccentric - 返信
-
Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.
-
Remove the upper case.
Kudos for this fantastic walk-through of replacing the hard drive. I just swapped in a new SSD and it was a piece of cake!
On Step 10, I tried just propping up the keyboard and leaving it connected to the logic board. It worked for a while but eventually the ribbon popped off. Luckily it wasn't damaged and it's super easy to replace.
Same happened to me. No damage here either. :-)
-
Use a spudger to pry up the translucent plastic sheath covering the keyboard connector.
-
Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the black plastic flaps locking down the keyboard and keyboard backlight ribbon cables.
-
Slide the orange keyboard backlight ribbon out of its connector.
-
Peel up the orange tape covering the keyboard backlight connector.
-
Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the brown plastic flap locking down the keyboard backlight ribbon cable.
-
Use a spudger or your finger to slide the keyboard backlight ribbon out of its connector.
-
Disconnect the power button cable, the bluetooth cable, and the sleep sensor cable.
-
Carefully peel up the orange ribbon cable removing tape as necessary.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
7 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
