はじめに
このガイドを参考してMacBook Pro 15'' Retina Display Mid 2015のロジックボードを交換してください。
もしヒートシンクを取り外した後、必ず放熱グリスの除去と再塗布をしてください。その際、こちらのガイドを参照してください。
ツール
パーツ
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クラッチカバーに最も近い端から持ち上げて、MacBook Proの底面ケースを持ち上げます。
If you buy the entire kit, make sure you use the opening tool! I cut both of my index fingers trying to slide it off.
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pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....
The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.
I have magnets- is this the wrong guide?
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バッテリーコネクタを覆うステッカーを巻き戻します。
You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.
+1 to above comment
Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3
I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.
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バッテリーコネクターの両側を静かに持ち上げて、コネクターをロジックボード上のソケットから引き出します。
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バッテリーコネクターが誤ってロジックボードに接触しないように、コネクターをバッテリーの方に戻してください。
@lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).
I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.
Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect
Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.
I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.
There is an extra piece of plastic on the connector, you might want to peel that off too. It’s not in the pictures.
Ellie B -
There is a battery cover with two T5 screws that must be removed before prying on the connector.
Hi Dennis,
Thanks for bringing this up! I’ll work on verifying this and adjust the guide as needed.
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ピンセットもしくはスパッジャーを使って、AirPortボード上のソケットからAirPortアンテナケーブルの3箇所をこじ開けて外し、作業の邪魔にならないように反対側に折り曲げます。
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再接続の際は、コネクタをソケット上の位置に揃えて、スパッジャーの平面側を使ってしっかりと押さえ込んで装着します。
When reconnecting these tiny wires, use one hand to guide and align the connector by holding the wire and the other hand to press them down with a flat end of a spudger. Spent 10 minutes figuring it out and connecting the first one, then only a few seconds on both of the remaining connectors :)
If you try to do this with one hand, it’s extremely easy to move them out of the alignment while pressing them down.
I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.
ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…
AirPort/Camera Cables? not AirPort/Bluetooth Cables?
Agreed with Abhishek - removing the wifi card first makes this much easier.
How do you know which is which when reassembling?
I highly suggest against disconnecting these wires. It's very likely that you will damage either sockets or wires. Do as others recommend, just remove the network card. Prying tool is not good for this step. I broke 1 out of 3 sockets. I wish I read all the comments before operating. Now I gotta get another card :(
what size driver does this require? My pentalobe doesnt seem to be the right size.
As many have mentioned, don’t disconnect the wires is reallly a pain in the a… to connect them, it wont be easy and will take a lot of patience….. Better disconnect the card and carefully leave the wires connected.
Just finished replacing both speakers using this guide. VERY good. I did not remove the individual wires - just removed the card with wires attached. Seemed to be the safer, easier way to go.
How? can you explain the procedure?
Just finished replacing my display LVDS Cable with this guide and another one; awesome. I as well just removed the card and left the wires attached. Much easier.
Can anyone explain how to remove the card instead of wires? About to try that out instead, but am going in blind! I see the screw holding the card down, just not sure what to do next…
This is one of those skills that you get experience right after you need it.
I learned these connectors doing RF work. They require a deft touch. Put slight downward pressure while you work to align the pair. Once you get the hang of it, you will know when they are aligned, and they will go back together with a light push and make a slight snap.
If they don’t immediately pop together with a light push, they’re not aligned quite right. Don’t force them, they have a very limited number of make/break cycles.
The cables should retain their bent shape well enough to show where each goes. One it too short to go too far off, and one is too long to fit to the nearest connection.
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、カメラケーブルコネクターを基板上のソケットから押して接続を外します。
This connector is very fragile, the left edge of mine cracked off and ended up in the socket. And during figuring that out the cable or the socket appears to have got damaged because “no camera detected”.
All connectors are incredibly fragile. I damaged the fan connector locking latch just by trying to lock it back in place. Fortunately the cable, by the way it inserts, it’s being pushed in rather than pulled on, however, I do have concerns with it not making a proper connection. Malcolm, I am wondering how you fixed your damaged connector?
The connector slides into the socket so using the flat end of the Splunger under the cable and gently lifting draws the connector apart.
This step is unnecessary if you are only replacing the right speaker. - simply loosen the cables that run across the fan, and you will later be able to remove the fan without disconnecting this cable. If you are replacing the left speaker, you do need to remove it, as otherwise the cable will be in the way when you lift out the logic board.
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指を使ってAirPort/カメラケーブルをファンから引っ張ります。
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ゆっくりとプラスチックのケーブルガイドからケーブルを巻き戻します。
Leave them attached. Remove the single screw holding the board in place and gently wiggle the airport card out (see Airport card removal instructions). Fold the card up and towards the rear of the computer. Now follow the instructions for the camera cable removal. Lift the airport card with the three leads attached and the camera cable up and fold the, to the outside of the case.
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I/Oボードケーブルのコネクターカバーを固定している2.2 mm T5トルクスネジを4本外します。
why is this needed for upper assembly replacement?
Andrew Chu - 返信
My cable connector covers are not screwed down. Mid 2015 15” MBP. That’s the computer in the title of this article so idk.
I’m having trouble breaking the 2.2 mm screws loose and I don’t want to strip the head. I’m using the T5 screwdriver. Does anyone know any tricks or suggestions?
Ok, so the correct size Torx is the T4, not T5
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右側のコネクターカバーを取り出します。
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットから I/Oボードケーブルの右側先端をこじ開けます。
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ファンに固定されている接着剤から I/Oボードケーブルを剥がして取り出します。
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ケーブルを取り出します。
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ファンを持ち上げて、ソケットからファケーブルを解放するため、ゆっくりとMacBookの後ろ側端に向けて押し出します。
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ファンを取り出します。
I recommend pushing the cable connector away with a spudger instead of using the fan to pull it away…there seems to be too much stress put on the cable using the method proposed here.
Using a spudger does help alleviate stress on the cable. I also used it to help get the cable up from being adhered to the logic board.
Adding to the other comments, the fan is very light and has no resistance lifting out of the place it sits in.
I carefully lifted the fan just before there was any tension on the cable.
With the fan held in my right hand and spudger in my left, I moved the spudger under the fan approaching from the left side.
This allowed me to easily place the flat end of the spudger under the cable where the thicker plastic sits and gently pry the cable up until the cable broke away from the body.
I then used the pointed part of the spudger to gently pry the connector part of the cable away from the socket while gently pulling the fan away until the cable was disconnected and the entire fan was free.
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、左側ファンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを裏返します。
All connectors are incredibly fragile. I didn’t have any problem unlocking the cable but rather after finishing the job and closing the hinged retaining flap. The hinged flap wiggles, it moves and wasn’t 100% properly aligned. It’s not like it was badly out of place and I tried to force it, no, on the contrary, I was being extremely delicate, but it wiggles in place so so very slightly since it’s not a real hinge. You need to make sure it hasn’t moved before applying any pressure trying to close it or IT WILL break off. It’s frustrating that I damaged the fan connector, not by prying on the socket, but in the last step of just locking the latch.
Fortunately the cable, by the way it inserts, it’s being pushed in rather than pulled on, however, I do have concerns with it maybe not making a proper connection. I am now wondering how other’s have fixed your damaged connectors? As I mentioned at the beginning, I’m sure I’m not the first since all the connectors are incredibly fragile. Any feedback?
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ファンを持ち上げて、ソケットからファンケーブルを解放するためにMacBookの後ろ側端に向けて押し出します。
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ファンを取り出します。
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I/Oボードから3.1 mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。
Remove the screw holding the heat pipe, it blocks the I/O board from coming out
It's interesting that you had to remove the heat pipe screw. This didn't seem to be in the way for me. The I/O board came out quite easily without any issues.
But… it could be different for others as it was for you. I just thought I'd share my experience.
Also make sure the I/O cable removed on previous step is out of the way before screwing this down
Keith Kern - 返信
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板中のソケットからtouchpadケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。
seems to be a photo of a different model. connector is more or less in the same place though.
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基板アセンブリを上部ケースに固定している次の6本のネジを取り外します。
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3.8 mm T5トルクスネジー1本
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5.7 mm T5トルクスネジー2本
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5.6 mm T5トルクスネジー1本(このネジはシルバーで他のネジに比べると若干高くなっています。)
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2.6 mm T5トルクスネジー1本
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3.2 mm T5トルクスネジー1本
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次の手順では下の6つのコネクタの接続を外します。各手順をしっかりと読んでから作業に移ってください。これらのコネクタのタイプは様々で、外し方も異なります。
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マイクケーブル
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左側スピーカーケーブル
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キーボードデータケーブル
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右側スピーカーケーブル
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キーボード用バックライトケーブル
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ディスプレイデータケーブル
I think it would be helpful to mention at this point that the detail of how to disconnect each individual connector is shown in the next six steps.
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、キーボードデータケーブルZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。
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キーボードデータケーブルをZIFソケットから引っ張り、基板と並行に折り曲げます。まっすぐ上向きに引っ張らないでください。
The retaining flap broke on me during reassembly. I was careful, but it kind of got stuck. Pay extra attention and if it doesn’t give, don’t force it.
Same thing happened to me. Didn’t really put much pressure either.
meadowsd -
I had the same issue. Did you find a way to change the retaining flap?
Olivier -
The last picture doesn’t show it but my cable had blue plastic material on both top and bottom, which I had not noticed during disassembly. It slid in nicely but now not sure if it is an insulating material of some kind that should have been set aside?
I can confirm blue colour of cable tip.
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、右側のスピーカーコネクターをこじ開けて、基板上のソケットから接続を外します。
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ケーブルを基板から邪魔にならない位置に丁寧に折り曲げます。
Note that the connector sits inside of a little “box” which is the socket. Don’t try to pry up underneath that but stay under where the wires are connected. The pictures are good, and you can see the “box” in the last picture.
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、キーボードのバックライトコネクターを基板上のソケットから接続を外します。
On reassembly it would be great to have some tips on how to properly locate this connector…it’s kind of fussy.
Thanks for calling this out. I took a picture of the socket after disconnecting. I can see why it might have been less obvious on reassembly.
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、ディスプレイデータのケーブルロックの接続を持ち上げて、MagSafe 2パワーポート側に折り曲げます。
+(mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen)
Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Verschluss des Displaydatenkabels nach oben zu klappen (mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen) und ihn in Richtung MagSafe 2-Powerport zu drehen.
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ディスプレイデータケーブルをまっすぐ基板上のソケットから持ち上げます。
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ディスプレイの蝶番側に向けてディスプレイデータケーブルを丁寧に折り曲げます。MagSafe 2ボード上のネジが触れるようにします。
The wording of the instruction: “Pull the display data cable STRAIGHT OUT of its socket on the logic board” could lead to errors. It almost happened to me.
Instead you should word it: “Pull the display data cable parallel to the face of the logic board being careful to keep it straight and NOT LIFT UP on the cable”.
I realize you mention it later in the warning immediately below, however, by first saying “pull the cable straight out” leads to confusion and could lead the user to attempt to interpret “PULL STRAIGHT OUT” as “PULL UP” unsuccesfully only to later notice, maybe after breaking it, that there was a warning.
Wording it properly the first time will make the warning unnecessary.
I had the same thought as I almost proceeded without noticing the red text warning.
I especially think the second warning about not touching the contacts on the data connectors should be listed before the instructions on removing it.
I think it bears repeating just how fragile this connector is, particularly on reinsertion. The problem isn’t just technicians touching the connector end; you can damage the pins simply by inserting it slightly out of alignment, or at an angle, because the outermost pins are VERY close to the edge and are very fragile. They have the appearance of being embedded in the connector but they’re actually spring traces just lying on top of it. I managed to bend the southmost pin upwards reinserting it; luckily it flattened out again and worked, but if it had not been possible to do that it’d have been a whole new screen assembly.
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上部ケースから基板アセンブリ全体を持ちあげて取り出します。
When reassembling, be careful not to leave any cables (such as keyboard backlight connector, step 36) under the board.
Also, make sure to align the right (and left) I/O properly, making sure the tabs on each port are underneath the lip of the aluminum frame. In my case, I couldn’t push the logic board far enough to align the screws until I had done this.
Yes. This step is crucial. Thanks for pointing it out!
jonvdez -
I was struggling to align it and was beginning to get frustrated. I had to look back at photos to make sure the tabs had to go under the lip of the aluminum frame. Unfortunately I read your comment after the fact. Thank you.
if you’re only removing the right speaker, no need to remove the logic board. Simply lift the edge of the logic board to remove the speaker cable.
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、HDMIデータトランスポートケーブルのメタル製固定フラップを押し上げてください。
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基板上にあるソケットからHDMIデータトランスポートケーブルを丁寧に引き上げて接続を外します。
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デバイスを再組立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
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8 件のコメント
Any tips on where to purchase a replacement logic board?
Isaac Hake - 返信
Can i use the mid-2015 logic board to mid-2012?
This logic board is the model whit just one graphic card, in the other model the logic board have one IC close to processor
Can the heatsink be removed without taking out the logic board?
i have a mid 2015 2.5ghz MacBook pro. Can I replace the defective logic board with the 2.8ghz logic board?
geomatrixx - 返信
thanks, i managed to clean up my mac and change cpu and gpu thermal paste. finally, no underclocking when reaching high temps!
The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.
anonymous 1286 - 返信
Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.
anonymous 1286 - 返信
WAIT!.. STOP.
iFixit has had a slew of defective batteries that they will require you take out and return (after gluing them in). Search on: "Battery percentage suddenly drops" here on this site. This process is 50 steps to get the new battery in, and another 50 to put all the parts back. For $199, Apple will do the whole repair, warranty it, and also replace the trackpad and the keyboard (because it's easier for THEM to do).
Ifixit WILL NOT stand behind defective batteries unless you spend another 4-6 hours swapping in a new one. NOT. WORTH. IT. See posts here (Battery percentage suddenly drops from ~60% to 7%) on frustrated customer’s multiple attempts and class-action lawsuits.
MFMauceri - 返信
Thank you for this info, you’ve probably saved a lot of time, and hassle (myself included, if I end up going through with this repair).
Andrew Poindexter -
The instructions below have you basically taking ALL of the guts out of case. I’ve been doing my own apple repairs since before ifixit was a thing and this one is a handful. My battery was swelling and I wanted to remove it before it burst or bent the case so I took it out without having a replacement and it occurs to me that aside from using the solvent (liquid) to remove the adhesive, you could probably do this only taking the trackpad ribbon out. I have mine reassembled now and will research the best battery to buy but I think installation will take about 5 minutes. See if you can slip a plastic gift card under the battery and wag/saw the adhesive out without the solvent before you go through all of this. It might work. Note, don’t bend or put too much stress on the battery and certainly don’t puncture it…
br1ansk - 返信
I’m having a problem trying to get the screws off. I have a set of pentalobe screwdriver set. I found one screwdriver that fits perfectly on one set of screws, but I am unable to unscrew it. I tried using some force pushing the screwdriver into the screw, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?
henry_k_wong - 返信
All the screws on mine are the same length for some reason.
ccfman2004 - 返信
I would recommend the first step is: Run the battery down to ZERO before doing any next step. This reduces risk to you, people nearby, to the MBP and greatly reduces the risk of fire. Step 2 should be: Double-check that the battery is at zero.
I like others listed below and on YouTube, disagree with these full tear down 70+ steps being the only focus. I get that I have to be careful not to get the acetone solvent near the speakers. I skipped 25+ steps by: tilting the MBP away from the speakers and using very little acetone solvent. More pressure with the plastic cards and only a few drops of solvent. While giving the full set of instructions is fine it should be very clear that you can (at the user’s own risk) do this.
Kenneth Schleede - 返信