ワイヤレス接続に問題がありますか?このガイドを参照して、MacBook Pro 15インチ Unibody Mid 2012 AirPort/Bluetoothボードを交換しましょう。

  1. 底ケースを固定している以下の10本のネジを外します。
    • 底ケースを固定している以下の10本のネジを外します。

    • 13.5(14.1)mm プラスネジー3本

    • 3 mm プラスネジー7本

    Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

    Bizarre much?

    Will - 返信

    It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

    Andrew Janke -

    I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!

    xtophr -

    I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

    leonie - 返信

    Great advise! Love it! :)

    Ririds -

    I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

    Now I use these:


    The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

    Richard Sato -

    I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

    Roscoe -

    I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

    jelimoore -

    Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

    maccentric -

    I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

    Nils -

    @Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

    Roger - 返信

    Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

    So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

    wresnick - 返信


    Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

    H Stahl -


    Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

    Mountain Lion

    May someone help me?

    I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

    Piero - 返信

    To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

    1982sketcher -

    Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

    - zerø K

    zeroK - 返信

    for all the mac 2011 owner. we should pressure apple to accept their fault. they gave as a piece of junk while they took our $2000. -betrayed apple fanboy

    mindful - 返信

    These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

    Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.


    Marcos - 返信

    During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

    kusi - 返信

    There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

    Print the repair guide.

    Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

    When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

    You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

    Same thing with any part you remove.

    splashzoneent - 返信

    Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

    Tommy Kedar -

    Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

    nclarke36 -

    Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

    It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

    SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .


    1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

    2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

    3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

    cheers- Durango CO!

    Dgodrummer - 返信

    Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

    kevicoll409 - 返信

    The link above is no longer available.

    Kristina Graham -

    Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out.

    Danno - 返信

    Is it necessary to ground oneself to prevent static damage to logic board, etc. when replacing the speakers?

    If so, what is the best way to do this?

    Do you wear wrist strap designed for this purpose? To what metal object do you attach the clip and wire? I’m assuming the aluminum case isn’t going to work.

    Sibyl Smith - 返信

    I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.

    Pete Banks - 返信

    How did that work out if you don’t mind me asking? I’m a bit nervous and been on the fence for a while. Mine isn’t swollen but it’s dying after an hour which is problematic.

    Shawn -

    The instructions say that I am removing PH00 screws. I found that my MBP, mid ‘12, Retina has pentalobe screws instead!

    jsandersonq - 返信

    This laptop definitely originally shipped with Phillips screws—but, Apple has been known to replace Phillips screws with pentalobes when one of their devices is brought in for service. Sorry for the rude surprise! Fortunately the correct driver is easy to find nowadays. [Blatant self-promotion alert!] If you support free repair manuals, consider picking one up from iFixit. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Me, too, and it’s plausible that this machine has been serviced by Apple in the past, replacing the screws as Jeff Suovanen suggests.

    iFixit shipped a pentalobe bit with the kit, but it’s too large for the actual screws, so it looks like I now need to get another bit. But what size?

    Jeff’s link is to a driver with a P5 bit, and that page links to a P2 screwdriver, but since I don’t know what size I actually need (and I don’t have a micrometer to hand) I’m reluctant to buy two on spec.

    Norman Gray -

    (The bit in the kit appears to be a P6, so I’m inclined to order a P5 and see what happens)

    Norman Gray -

    To keep track of screws, I used the suggestions above by taping a photo of the lower case to a piece of corrugated cardboard and inserting/taping the screws in place. Also, as some have noted, the screws go back in at a slight angle; they are angled toward the center of the unit.

    Kristina Graham - 返信

    I have the kit for replacing a 4th gen iPod battery and the screwdrivers look like the same spec – do the plastic opening tools work as a spudger?

    Philip Machanick - 返信

    If your vision, like mine, is getting too fuzzy to be able to distinguish between a tiny Phillips screwdriver and a tiny Tri screwdriver, there’s an easy way. With a Phillips (or a Pozidrive) you can get two opposite wings to reflect the light from a lamp or window straight towards your eye at the same time. With a Tri (or Penta) you can only get one wing to reflect at a time, however much you twiddle it.

    Alan Waller - 返信

    There’s a very easy way to avoid cross-threading a screw thread, any size.

    Put the screw into its hole and start by turning it gently, slowly BACKWARDS. When you hear a little “Click!” sound, the male thread has just passed the opening in the female thread and is in exactly the right position to enter into it correctly when you start to turn in the correct forward direction.

    Remember, all drivers except hex (Allen key) and TorX need pressure to avoid slipping out and damaging the head. So even when you want to turn it in with LOW moment/torque, keep the CONTACT PRESSURE high.

    Alan Waller - 返信

  2. 両手を使用して排気口の近くから底ケースを持ち上げて、上部ケースに固定している2本のクリップを外します。
    • 両手を使用して排気口の近くから底ケースを持ち上げて、上部ケースに固定している2本のクリップを外します。

    • 底ケースを取り外して脇に置きます。

    After pulling out the lower case and put it back on, the lower case doesn't stick well with the left clip. What should i do now?

    Januar Wiyogo - 返信

    What is the maximum amount of RAM that can be installed in this MacBook?

    michael - 返信

    16 GB is the max

    Bradon Kelley -

    I can’t get the back panel off !! Removed all 10 screws but the panel is still on. Not a quick easy lift like in the picture of videos on youtube what going on…are the hidden screws locking tabs?

    Tachyon - 返信

    Solved the tabs were hard to get off to the point I thought I was going to bend the back case off before it would let go.

    Tachyon - 返信

  3. ※特定の修理(ハードディスクドライブなど)の場合はバッテリーを取り外す必要はありませんが、マザーボード上で誤ってショートさせてしまうのを防ぐ事が出来ます。バッテリーを外さない場合は、マザーボード上の部品が帯電している可能性があるので注意してください。 ナイロンスパッジャーの端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをメイン基板上のソケットから持ち上げてください。
    • ※特定の修理(ハードディスクドライブなど)の場合はバッテリーを取り外す必要はありませんが、マザーボード上で誤ってショートさせてしまうのを防ぐ事が出来ます。バッテリーを外さない場合は、マザーボード上の部品が帯電している可能性があるので注意してください。

    • ナイロンスパッジャーの端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをメイン基板上のソケットから持ち上げてください。

    • ソケットから接続を外す際、コネクターの縦側の両サイドを上向きに持ち上げると簡単です。

    nails work pretty well as well...

    Sibe Jan Kramer - 返信

    At first sight I was confused when I read the description at this step, 'cause it seemed that disconnecting the battery connector was optional, in order to eliminate static discharge. While it's a helpful advice in other circumstances (as mentioned as an example changing hard drives), when changing the battery it is not an option - you have to disconnect the battery connector.

    It would have been better to mention the optional disconnecting recommendation in a side-note.

    Other than that, an excellent guide!

    Damienn - 返信

    the fact that this step is optional can not be stressed enough. i tried disconnecting the battery and in the process it short circuited which now leaves me with an even more expensive problem than i had before when i just wanted to change hard drives (at least the new hard drive works fine..)

    the hard drive changing worked though.

    nina - 返信

    Excellent guide, it was as easy as a breeze to replace my battery. I can't believe I nearly followed Apple in their saying that this part was not user replaceable. Great job for this description, and many thanks. iFixIt is THE reference for Mac owners.


    Patrick Demaret - 返信

    So - I have a weird comment about this. I wanted to make sure that I was getting the right model - so I opened up my laptop and then thought "well, why not just remove the battery while i'm in here, it's shot anyway". Though, I forgot about the stupid screws (Apple really did us over on that one!). Though I disconnected the battery connector and didn't bother to re-connect it when I was finished and just put the cover back on.

    Here's the weird part - when I went to turn my laptop back on...MY BATTERY WAS RECOGNIZED...AND WORKING! I was under the impression that the connector "connects" the battery's charge to the laptop, but this just doesn't make sense! Plus, now my very dead battery is in "normal" condition according to the system report. I haven't worked for apple, but have about 5 years of IT experience and am baffled by this! I'm starting to think i've experience a miracle! Has this happened to anyone else?

    Shelly - 返信

    Possibly disconnecting the battery caused the System Management Controller to reset. That might have been your problem rather than the battery itself. See http://osxdaily.com/2010/03/24/when-and-...

    Duke Briscoe -

    I'd just like an advise of where to dispose the old battery. Thanks

    Jaime Serafim - 返信

    Any Best Buy or Batteries + Bulbs accepts batteries for recycling in their stores. Many other stores such as Home Depot do as well.

    xtophr -

    My battery won't work after reconnecting it, I made sure everything was done as stated, what can I do to fix this?

    r1m111 - 返信

    My battery connector pulled off parallel to the board surface

    Mazo - 返信

    I tried spudging the corner closer to the wires which was probably a bad idea. The corner broke off! I can't believe it was that brittle. So be careful. If it did it again, I'd aim for the corners AWAY from the wires or the sides themselves, though I seem to recall there not being much of a lip.

    Dave Kitabjian - 返信

    I used the spudger to gently ease the battery connector out. I then placed a q-tip between the connector and it’s socket to avoid making an accidental connection. A toothpick or some other soft stick might also work.

    Kristina Graham - 返信

    My battery connector had a shiny metal cover over it like a male USB plug. I had to take the 3 peace symbol screws oit and remove the battery before I could access thr plug properly. My battery plug also came off parallel to the board by walking the black plastic part off the metal part towards the battery. It required quite a bit of force to walk it off the connector. I broke a spudger trying. Something nonconductive but strong like a wittled down bamboo chopstick could work well.

    Pii - 返信

    Translate to Spanish:

    Para ciertas reparaciones (por ejemplo, el disco duro), no es necesario desconectar el conector de la batería, pero evita cualquier cortocircuito accidental de la electrónica en la placa base. Si no desconecta el conector de la batería, tenga cuidado ya que partes de la placa base pueden estar electrificadas.

    Use el borde de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería hacia arriba desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    Es útil hacer palanca hacia arriba en ambos lados cortos del conector para "sacarlo" de su zócalo.

    Pakito Villaseñor - 返信

  4. バッテリケーブルをソケットから離すように少し曲げておき、作業中に誤ってメイン基板に接触しないようにします。
    • バッテリケーブルをソケットから離すように少し曲げておき、作業中に誤ってメイン基板に接触しないようにします。

    Move battery removal step to this point in upper case replacement guide.

    Paul Palm - 返信

    My battery connect was like mid 2010 model

    Iain Friend - 返信

    Why not go ahead and remove the battery at this point instead of bending the battery connector back (see steps 23 -25 below)?

    BilMcKelvy - 返信

    Translate to Sanish: Doble el cable de la batería ligeramente lejos de su zócalo en la placa lógica para que no se conecte accidentalmente mientras trabaja.

    Pakito Villaseñor - 返信

  5. 基板上のソケットからカメラケーブルのコネクターをまっすぐ引き離します。
    • 基板上のソケットからカメラケーブルのコネクターをまっすぐ引き離します。

    • カメラケーブルを光学ドライブの入り口側に向けて、基板の表面に対して並行に引っ張ります。

    This step did not provide enough direction and is the reason my cable is either broke/not working now. I tried pulling it out of the logic board, as indicated, but it did not budge. I was extremely careful not to damage it, so I gave up on trying to remove it once I saw that it wasn't moving. Lo and behold, once I fired the Macbook up again, the camera is no longer connected. This step should have additional details/explanation as to why the cable may not come out/what to do if it doesn't (I was able to proceed to the next steps by working around the cable, so it didn't even have to be removed as the guide might have you think).

    Does anyone know how to properly fix it/where to buy a replacement camera/iSight cable? I would like to fix this if possible.

    jackalbert - 返信

    I would like to add – several months later, my Macbook Pro failed to turn on and the motherboard had to be replaced. I'm giving partial blame to this guide for failing to adequately describe how to safely proceed on this step (I suspect a bad wifi card was part of the problem). Anyone else following this guide be very wary!

    jackalbert - 返信

  6. Nintendo Switch Kits

    A quick fix to get back in the game

    Shop Switch Kits

    Nintendo Switch Kits

    A quick fix to get back in the game

    Shop Switch Kits
  7. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、丁寧に AirPort/Bluetoothリボンケーブルを基板上のソケットから引き抜きます。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、丁寧に AirPort/Bluetoothリボンケーブルを基板上のソケットから引き抜きます。

    This step literally ruined my MacBook Pro. The ribbon cable pulled off of the logic board, and will no longer reconnect.

    Brian Webb - 返信

  8. スパッジャーの先端を使って、 AirPort/Bluetoothボード上のソケットからアンテナコネクターを4つこじ開けます。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、 AirPort/Bluetoothボード上のソケットからアンテナコネクターを4つこじ開けます。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、 AirPort/Bluetoothボード上のソケットからアンテナコネクターを4つこじ開けます。

    I found the problem with my wifi: sadly the connector solder joint j4 of the wifi board was not stable enough. now the socket is inside of the connector and not joined with the board. How do I remove the socket from inside of the connector? Is this even possible?

    Bodo Tasche - 返信

  9. AirPort/Bluetoothハウジングの回路から4本のアンテナケーブルを外します。 AirPort/Bluetoothハウジングの回路からカメラケーブルを外します。 AirPort/Bluetoothハウジングの回路からカメラケーブルを外します。
    • AirPort/Bluetoothハウジングの回路から4本のアンテナケーブルを外します。

    • AirPort/Bluetoothハウジングの回路からカメラケーブルを外します。

    Long antenna cable was a little tricky, harder to de-route...slide to narrow part of cable, and then lift out from under the tab

    Christa - 返信

  10. 上部ケースにAirPort/Bluetoothアセンブリを固定している2本のネジを外します。
    • 上部ケースにAirPort/Bluetoothアセンブリを固定している2本のネジを外します。

    • 8.6 mmプラスネジー1本

    • 3.9 mmプラスネジー1本

    I want to know Lot No. of " 3.9 mm Phillips screw" Step 9.

    That was broken... :( Is there anyone who can help me?

    YoungWook Jo - 返信

    the same problem, do you know which size the screw is??

    adambartusz91 -

    Looking for replacement screws for the Airport/Bluetooth module. The head stripped and I was able to successfully remove the damaged screw but now I need a replacement. If I could get the part number for the screws I could probably order it. It's the screw on the right in step 9.

    MacGyver - 返信

    MacGyver, how did you finally remove that screw? Same problem here.

    Heinz -

    Also curious. Both screws are stripped on mine.

    Marc Opperman -

    Bumping this. I need to know the screw sizes too.

    robbysturms -

    Can i replace a faulty 2011 15" screen with the same one from a 2010 15" model with the same resolution?

    Are they interchangeable?

    lukas - 返信

    It is possible, yes.

    Josh Morelli-Harlan -


    These two screws strip easily, and we need a guide on how to remove them when they become stripped.

    Please that would be so helpful.

    M Santos - 返信

    I got the 8.6 mm Phillips screw completely stripped; is it now impossible to remove the display assembly without removing this screw?

    plugkid90 - 返信

    I’ve used a J00 (JIS00) Screw Driver Bit from the iFixIt Set and it works for me. You have to put pressure from the top of the screw driver while screwing.

    Michael Erdmann - 返信

  11. ケーブルを引っ掛けないように気をつけながら、AirPort/Bluetoothアセンブリを上部ケースから外します。
    • ケーブルを引っ掛けないように気をつけながら、AirPort/Bluetoothアセンブリを上部ケースから外します。

  12. AirPort/Bluetooth アセンブリ周辺を覆っているEMIテープを剥ぎ取ります。 AirPort/Bluetooth アセンブリ周辺を覆っているEMIテープを剥ぎ取ります。
    • AirPort/Bluetooth アセンブリ周辺を覆っているEMIテープを剥ぎ取ります。

    Where can I get a new piece of EMI tape wrapped around the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly?

    Rusty - 返信

    Use a blade to pick up this tape as it easily tears. Take your time with it and stick it to a clean plastic surface so it doesn't curl. It'll then go back on OK. I suggest you replace with the longest edge first and carefully wrap the tape back on when replacing.

    Rich Moog - 返信

    I’d suggest starting on the larger side with the tape and working around to the smaller side as it is easier to deal with the curling that happens on which every edge is lifted first if it is on the larger side versus the smaller side.

    Also seems like starting with the spine of the tape when replacing makes alignment easy and pretty foolproof.

    But really starting with a new piece of tape would be best. Doesn’t stick back down nearly as well and there is a tendency for it to fray when being removed. Wish they alluded to that at the beginning of the guide.

    Aaron - 返信

  13. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、AirPort/Bluetooth ケーブルをAirPort/Bluetooth ボード上のソケットから引き抜きます。 AirPort/Bluetooth アセンブリからAirPort/Bluetooth ケーブルを外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、AirPort/Bluetooth ケーブルをAirPort/Bluetooth ボード上のソケットから引き抜きます。

    • AirPort/Bluetooth アセンブリからAirPort/Bluetooth ケーブルを外します。

  14. AirPort/BluetoothボードハウジングとAirPort/Bluetooth ボードを固定している3本のプラスネジを外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、AirPort/Bluetooth ボードハウジングの角からAirPort/Bluetooth ボードを取り出します。
    • AirPort/BluetoothボードハウジングとAirPort/Bluetooth ボードを固定している3本のプラスネジを外します。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、AirPort/Bluetooth ボードハウジングの角からAirPort/Bluetooth ボードを取り出します。

    Does anyone know what size screws these are? I stripped one of them pretty bad. My best guess is m2 3 mm but I could be way off. Can’t find the exact screw type anywhere.

    robbysturms - 返信

  15. アルミニウムのハウジングからAirPort/Bluetooth ボードを取り出します。
    • アルミニウムのハウジングからAirPort/Bluetooth ボードを取り出します。

  16. AirPort/Bluetoothのブラケットを上部ケースに固定する前に、左側端の小サイズのタブが黒色プラスチックの光学ドライブの入り口の中にある切り込みに差し込んであるか確認してください。
    • AirPort/Bluetoothのブラケットを上部ケースに固定する前に、左側端の小サイズのタブが黒色プラスチックの光学ドライブの入り口の中にある切り込みに差し込んであるか確認してください。

    No need to buy the bracket for this repair. The only thing you need is the chip, unless somehow your bracket is broken. Which would be very unlikely.

    Caleb Franks - 返信

    Do you know what size these 3 screws are securing the airport card?

    robbysturms - 返信



33 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。



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Andrew Optimus Goldheart

メンバー登録日: 2009年10月17日

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15 件のコメント

Pessoal; Será que temos com trocar essa peça Bluetooth 2.1 por um 4.0?


Folks; Do we have to change this piece Bluetooth 2.1 for a 4.0?


Fernando Medeiros - 返信

My computer was having trouble with the internet and after much research I came to the conclusion it was my airport/bluetooth board. A bunch of stores I went to said it would cost me around $200-$300 to replace ($100 for board and $100-$200 for installation). Then I found this cite and all of its manuals. I was able to order the part online from this site for only ~$50 and following the steps in the instructions was super easy. Would definitely give 10/10 for this website and manual.

I'd also like to point out I ordered the ifixit tool kit as well (just cause it looked awesome and I have no will power), but only the 2 tools mentioned in the instructions were needed. So no need to go overboard such as myself

Darren Picard - 返信

Hi, would there be chance that the ribbon that is broken? My mid 2012 MBP faced a few times of this wifi/bluetooth issue but the technician never tell me what is the real problem. Or I can just buy the adapter and replace it by myself?

JinHow - 返信

Good chance it is the ribbon. I replaced the board with the one I ordered from this site. Worked great for about 2 months then had the same issue. Figured out it couldn't be the board that was causing the problem. So I played with it and I think it's my ribbon connections. All I do is every few months when I start to get the problem I open it up and reconnect the connections on the ribbon and it's good for another 2 months. I assume a permanent solution would be to buy a new ribbon but I haven't done that yet

Darren Picard - 返信

I second this. My old computer started having bluetooth issues and I needed more power, so I bought a new one and gave the old to my wife. WiFi went out shortly thereafter. PRAM resets worked for a few minutes, but never very long. Replaced the ribbon (very easy, a bit cheaper), and bluetooth works great now, and wifi too. I would try the ribbon first (cheaper and much easier to do).

John Kidd -

Just a little update for those that care, but I ordered the ribbon from the site and installed it on my macbook. I have had no issues with my internet since doing this so I assume i have solved my problem for now. Hope this helps

Darren Picard - 返信

Thanks for the followup, I will then replace my ribbon too.

Degeorges - 返信

@darrenpicard25 What were your specific issues? And can you provide a link to buying the ribbon? My Bluetooth works if I turn off WiFi. Otherwise they compete, my mouse gets choppy and often loses its Bluetooth connection.

Macgeekppc - 返信


Basically the problem I had was my WiFi wouldn’t work. If I connected my laptop directly using a cord the internet worked, so I knew it was something with my wireless card. It would say that it was on but would not show any of the networks around me. and If i turned the WiFi off it wouldn’t let me turn it back on again (id just click the button and it wouldn’t do anything). So then Id restart my computer and sometimes my WiFi would work, sometimes id have the same problem, and other times it would say “No hardware found” (then id have to restart it again until it worked). This would solve the problem for a few days or as little as 20 min, it varied. I googled a bunch and tried a bunch of things on my computer like removing the Wifi and adding it back on but these only worked temporary (same as just restarting it). So then the next steps I did are in above comments, but yeah it was definitely the ribbon cause it has been working fine since

Darren Picard -

Hello iFixit

I am having trouble with my wifi etc. I followed your helpful steps and when I got to ‘step 6’ I realised why my airport wasn’t working anymore.

The ribbon is loose from its socket and the socket element itself is stuck to the logic board and wont budge. Do you have any suggestions on how to remove this or even why it would be stuck to the logic board…?

All the best


dougal - 返信

Do I need to reinstall any software to reboot the card? After replacing, allegedly, faulty card my wifi is still not working, on the top of that the bluetooth is disabled too.

What to do???

przemek - 返信

When you reboot your computer following the installation, make sure to reset your system clock, as most websites will not allow you access without a correct clock.

Michael Arch - 返信

@darrenpicard25 how did you fix your rubber problem? It sounds like I have exactly the same problem as you have.

Liviatschki m - 返信

I assume you mean ribbon. But I just ordered the ribbon from this site and followed the instructions to replace it. It was pretty straight forward

Darren Picard -

Hello, thank you for this tuto! do you know if we can upgrade the airport card from this macbook pro mid 2012 with another to unlock my mac with an apple watch?

Lopez - 返信



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