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はじめに

スクリーンに亀裂がはいったり、奇妙なラインがはいっていますか?大丈夫です。このガイドはディスプレイアセンブリを取り外して交換する方法です。

  1. MacBook Proに固定された底面ケースから次のペンタブネジを取り外します。
    • MacBook Proに固定された底面ケースから次のペンタブネジを取り外します。

    • 3.1 mm−8本

    • 2.3 mm−2本

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 - 返信

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 - 返信

    WAIT!.. STOP.

    iFixit has had a slew of defective batteries that they will require you take out and return (after gluing them in). Search on: "Battery percentage suddenly drops" here on this site. This process is 50 steps to get the new battery in, and another 50 to put all the parts back. For $199, Apple will do the whole repair, warranty it, and also replace the trackpad and the keyboard (because it's easier for THEM to do).

    Ifixit WILL NOT stand behind defective batteries unless you spend another 4-6 hours swapping in a new one. NOT. WORTH. IT. See posts here (Battery percentage suddenly drops from ~60% to 7%) on frustrated customer’s multiple attempts and class-action lawsuits.

    MFMauceri - 返信

    Thank you for this info, you’ve probably saved a lot of time, and hassle (myself included, if I end up going through with this repair).

    Andrew Poindexter -

    The instructions below have you basically taking ALL of the guts out of case. I’ve been doing my own apple repairs since before ifixit was a thing and this one is a handful. My battery was swelling and I wanted to remove it before it burst or bent the case so I took it out without having a replacement and it occurs to me that aside from using the solvent (liquid) to remove the adhesive, you could probably do this only taking the trackpad ribbon out. I have mine reassembled now and will research the best battery to buy but I think installation will take about 5 minutes. See if you can slip a plastic gift card under the battery and wag/saw the adhesive out without the solvent before you go through all of this. It might work. Note, don’t bend or put too much stress on the battery and certainly don’t puncture it…

    br1ansk - 返信

    I’m having a problem trying to get the screws off. I have a set of pentalobe screwdriver set. I found one screwdriver that fits perfectly on one set of screws, but I am unable to unscrew it. I tried using some force pushing the screwdriver into the screw, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?

    henry_k_wong - 返信

    All the screws on mine are the same length for some reason.

    ccfman2004 - 返信

  2. クラッチカバーに最も近い端から持ち上げて、MacBook Proの底面ケースを持ち上げます。 クラッチカバーに最も近い端から持ち上げて、MacBook Proの底面ケースを持ち上げます。
    • クラッチカバーに最も近い端から持ち上げて、MacBook Proの底面ケースを持ち上げます。

  3. 底面ケースには、上部ケース(オレンジ色)のプラスチッククリップに収まるプラスチック製の2つのペグ(赤色)があります。 再組立中に、底面ケースの中心を静かに押し下げて、2つのプラスチッククリップにケースを再び取り付けます。 再組立中に、底面ケースの中心を静かに押し下げて、2つのプラスチッククリップにケースを再び取り付けます。
    • 底面ケースには、上部ケース(オレンジ色)のプラスチッククリップに収まるプラスチック製の2つのペグ(赤色)があります。

    • 再組立中に、底面ケースの中心を静かに押し下げて、2つのプラスチッククリップにケースを再び取り付けます。

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 - 返信

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus - 返信

    You don't have to take so many steps.

    santa1234 - 返信

    I have magnets- is this the wrong guide?

    Benjamin Jones - 返信

  4. バッテリーコネクタを覆うステッカーを巻き戻します。
    • バッテリーコネクタを覆うステッカーを巻き戻します。

    You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

    Aaron Freidus - 返信

    +1 to above comment

    Andrew Saunders - 返信

    Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3

    Toby Thurston - 返信

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - 返信

  5. バッテリーコネクターの両側を静かに持ち上げて、コネクターをロジックボード上のソケットから引き出します。 バッテリーコネクターが誤ってロジックボードに接触しないように、コネクターをバッテリーの方に戻してください。 バッテリーコネクターが誤ってロジックボードに接触しないように、コネクターをバッテリーの方に戻してください。
    • バッテリーコネクターの両側を静かに持ち上げて、コネクターをロジックボード上のソケットから引き出します。

    • バッテリーコネクターが誤ってロジックボードに接触しないように、コネクターをバッテリーの方に戻してください。

    why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

    Lawtay - 返信

    @lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - 返信

    Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect

    James Mitchell - 返信

    Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

    paul - 返信

    I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.

    Joshua McFarland - 返信

    There is an extra piece of plastic on the connector, you might want to peel that off too. It’s not in the pictures.

    Ellie B -

    There is a battery cover with two T5 screws that must be removed before prying on the connector.

    Dennis Newton - 返信

    Hi Dennis,

    Thanks for bringing this up! I’ll work on verifying this and adjust the guide as needed.

    Arthur Shi -

  6. ピンセットもしくはスパッジャーを使って、AirPortボード上のソケットからAirPortアンテナケーブルの3箇所をこじ開けて外し、作業の邪魔にならないように反対側に折り曲げます。 ケーブルの接続部分は大変デリケートです。コネクタのみを持ち上げてください。ソケットやケーブルには接触しないようご注意ください。 再接続の際は、コネクタをソケット上の位置に揃えて、スパッジャーの平面側を使ってしっかりと押さえ込んで装着します。
    • ピンセットもしくはスパッジャーを使って、AirPortボード上のソケットからAirPortアンテナケーブルの3箇所をこじ開けて外し、作業の邪魔にならないように反対側に折り曲げます。

    • ケーブルの接続部分は大変デリケートです。コネクタのみを持ち上げてください。ソケットやケーブルには接触しないようご注意ください。

    • 再接続の際は、コネクタをソケット上の位置に揃えて、スパッジャーの平面側を使ってしっかりと押さえ込んで装着します。

    I seriously hate this step - it is pretty much the only difficult part of the job. Reconnecting these microscopic stinkin connectors is a monumental PITA…

    T Rowe - 返信

    Guys, be very carefull with these 3 cables.. If you are not going to replace the whole display, just be careful as much as possible.

    Adi - 返信

    When reconnecting these tiny wires, use one hand to guide and align the connector by holding the wire and the other hand to press them down with a flat end of a spudger. Spent 10 minutes figuring it out and connecting the first one, then only a few seconds on both of the remaining connectors :)

    If you try to do this with one hand, it’s extremely easy to move them out of the alignment while pressing them down.

    Aivar Kavshevich - 返信

    I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.

    Abhishek Kathuria - 返信

    ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…

    Antochny - 返信

    AirPort/Camera Cables? not AirPort/Bluetooth Cables?

    Marco Cappelli - 返信

    Je confirme qu’il est plus simple de déconnecter la carte (enlever la vis, et tirer délicatement sur la carte) que d’enlever les trois cables / I confirm that it’s a lot easier to disconnect the Airport card (just remove the screw and pull gently) than removing those 3 wires.

    Maen J - 返信

    Agreed with Abhishek - removing the wifi card first makes this much easier.

    Tammer Saleh - 返信

    How do you know which is which when reassembling?

    Bryan Province - 返信

    I highly suggest against disconnecting these wires. It's very likely that you will damage either sockets or wires. Do as others recommend, just remove the network card. Prying tool is not good for this step. I broke 1 out of 3 sockets. I wish I read all the comments before operating. Now I gotta get another card :(

    Adomas Aleknavičius - 返信

    what size driver does this require? My pentalobe doesnt seem to be the right size.

    jack32878 -

    As many have mentioned, don’t disconnect the wires is reallly a pain in the a… to connect them, it wont be easy and will take a lot of patience….. Better disconnect the card and carefully leave the wires connected.

    ilukewitschalejandro - 返信

    Just finished replacing both speakers using this guide. VERY good. I did not remove the individual wires - just removed the card with wires attached. Seemed to be the safer, easier way to go.

    Dwight Vaughn - 返信

    Just finished replacing my display LVDS Cable with this guide and another one; awesome. I as well just removed the card and left the wires attached. Much easier.

    Alex DeLeon - 返信

    Can anyone explain how to remove the card instead of wires? About to try that out instead, but am going in blind! I see the screw holding the card down, just not sure what to do next…

    Peter Scalzitti IV - 返信

    This is one of those skills that you get experience right after you need it.

    I learned these connectors doing RF work. They require a deft touch. Put slight downward pressure while you work to align the pair. Once you get the hang of it, you will know when they are aligned, and they will go back together with a light push and make a slight snap.

    If they don’t immediately pop together with a light push, they’re not aligned quite right. Don’t force them, they have a very limited number of make/break cycles.

    The cables should retain their bent shape well enough to show where each goes. One it too short to go too far off, and one is too long to fit to the nearest connection.

    prreitz - 返信

  7. 右側のゴム製カバーをファンから引き上げて、反対側に折り曲げます。 右側のゴム製カバーをファンから引き上げて、反対側に折り曲げます。
    • 右側のゴム製カバーをファンから引き上げて、反対側に折り曲げます。

  8. スパッジャーの先端を使って、カメラケーブルコネクターを基板上のソケットから押して接続を外します。 基板に対して平行になるようにこじ開けます。一方の角を押したらソケットからその反対側のコネクタを”ずらします”。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、カメラケーブルコネクターを基板上のソケットから押して接続を外します。

    • 基板に対して平行になるようにこじ開けます。一方の角を押したらソケットからその反対側のコネクタを”ずらします”。

    This connector is very fragile, the left edge of mine cracked off and ended up in the socket. And during figuring that out the cable or the socket appears to have got damaged because “no camera detected”.

    Malcolm Hall - 返信

    All connectors are incredibly fragile. I damaged the fan connector locking latch just by trying to lock it back in place. Fortunately the cable, by the way it inserts, it’s being pushed in rather than pulled on, however, I do have concerns with it not making a proper connection. Malcolm, I am wondering how you fixed your damaged connector?

    Robert Habib - 返信

    The connector slides into the socket so using the flat end of the Splunger under the cable and gently lifting draws the connector apart.

    Dennis Newton - 返信

  9. 指を使ってAirPort/カメラケーブルをファンから引っ張ります。 ケーブルはファンに接着剤で固定されています。そのため、ダメージを与えないように、引っ張る際は丁寧に作業を進めてください。 ゆっくりとプラスチックのケーブルガイドからケーブルを巻き戻します。
    • 指を使ってAirPort/カメラケーブルをファンから引っ張ります。

    • ケーブルはファンに接着剤で固定されています。そのため、ダメージを与えないように、引っ張る際は丁寧に作業を進めてください。

    • ゆっくりとプラスチックのケーブルガイドからケーブルを巻き戻します。

    • 再組み立ての際は、ファンにケーブルを装着するため十分な接着剤が必要です。

    Leave them attached. Remove the single screw holding the board in place and gently wiggle the airport card out (see Airport card removal instructions). Fold the card up and towards the rear of the computer. Now follow the instructions for the camera cable removal. Lift the airport card with the three leads attached and the camera cable up and fold the, to the outside of the case.

    George R. O'Connor - 返信

  10. スパッジャーの先端を使用して、ディスプレイデータケーブルのロックを外し、コンピュータのMagSafe 2電源ポート側に反転させます。 ディスプレイデータケーブルをロジックボードのソケットから真っ直ぐに引き抜きます。 ディスプレイデータケーブルのソケットは非常に損傷しやすいため、ケーブルを持ち上げないでください。ロジックボードの面と平行にケーブルを引っ張ります。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使用して、ディスプレイデータケーブルのロックを外し、コンピュータのMagSafe 2電源ポート側に反転させます。

    • ディスプレイデータケーブルをロジックボードのソケットから真っ直ぐに引き抜きます。

    • ディスプレイデータケーブルのソケットは非常に損傷しやすいため、ケーブルを持ち上げないでください。ロジックボードの面と平行にケーブルを引っ張ります。

    • 油脂が付着したり、ピンを損傷してしまうことがあるため、データコネクタとソケットの端子に指や工具で触れないでください。

  11. 2つのゴム製ヒンジカバーを取り外します。 2つのゴム製ヒンジカバーを取り外します。
    • 2つのゴム製ヒンジカバーを取り外します。

  12. アルミニウム製ヒンジカバーを上部ケースに固定している3.2mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。 アルミニウム製ヒンジカバーを上部ケースに固定している3.2mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。
    • アルミニウム製ヒンジカバーを上部ケースに固定している3.2mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。

    Step 12 involves tiny T5 screws, often held in place by surprisingly strong thread lock compound. Very easy to strip the screw heads. Be absolutely sure you have the right driver for the screw, press firmly, and turn SLOWLY. The amount of force required to break the thread lock is nearly the same force that will strip the screw head. If you run into trouble, and you just happen to have a flat-blade screwdriver that fits exactly, that may work better than a T5 Torx driver. I stripped the screw head on my MBP and a flat-blade screwdriver saved the day.

    David Cavanaugh - 返信

  13. MacBook Proから2つのアルミニウム製ヒンジカバーを取り外します。 MacBook Proから2つのアルミニウム製ヒンジカバーを取り外します。 MacBook Proから2つのアルミニウム製ヒンジカバーを取り外します。
    • MacBook Proから2つのアルミニウム製ヒンジカバーを取り外します。

  14. ディスプレイを上部ケースに固定している5.3 ㎜のT8トルクスネジ6本のうち、4本を取り外します。 各ヒンジで最も内側にあるネジはそのままにしておきます。
    • ディスプレイを上部ケースに固定している5.3 ㎜のT8トルクスネジ6本のうち、4本を取り外します。

    • 各ヒンジで最も内側にあるネジはそのままにしておきます。

    • 元通りに組み立てる際には、左側の2本のネジが、ウェブカム/AirPortケーブルのブラケットを通過してヒンジの元の場所で締め付けられていることを確認してください。

  15. MacBook Proを約110°開き、写真のようにテーブルの上に横向きに置きます。
    • MacBook Proを約110°開き、写真のようにテーブルの上に横向きに置きます。

  16. ディスプレイと上部ケースを離れないように左手で保持しながら、残りのT8トルクスネジを下側(テーブルに近い側)のディスプレイブラケットから取り外します。
    • ディスプレイと上部ケースを離れないように左手で保持しながら、残りのT8トルクスネジを下側(テーブルに近い側)のディスプレイブラケットから取り外します。

  17. 必ずディスプレイと上部ケースが離れないように左手で保持してください。こうしなければ外れたディスプレイ/上部ケースが転倒し、これらの部品が損傷してしまうことがあります。
    • 必ずディスプレイと上部ケースが離れないように左手で保持してください。こうしなければ外れたディスプレイ/上部ケースが転倒し、これらの部品が損傷してしまうことがあります。

    • ディスプレイと上部ケースを左手で保持しながら、残りのT8トルクスネジを上側のディスプレイブラケットから取り外します。

  18. デバイスの両方のパーツを左右の手でしっかりとつかみます。 デバイスの底部側の半分をゆっくりと前方に押して、ディスプレイアセンブリから取り外します。 各部品を慎重に脇に置きます。この際には必ず底部側のキーボードを下に向けて、内部部品が損傷しないようにします。
    • デバイスの両方のパーツを左右の手でしっかりとつかみます。

    • デバイスの底部側の半分をゆっくりと前方に押して、ディスプレイアセンブリから取り外します。

    • 各部品を慎重に脇に置きます。この際には必ず底部側のキーボードを下に向けて、内部部品が損傷しないようにします。

    • 交換用のディスプレイのヒンジが正しい角度に調整されていないことがあります。先が細く尖ったプライヤーでゆっくりとヒンジを調整して、古いヒンジと角度を合わせます。

    If you can't get your needle nose pliers under the hinges of the new display, use the blunt end of a 1/8" drill bit through one of the screw holes to leverage the hinge to the correct angle.

    Chris Shenk - 返信

    Another solution is to use a hex key. I also forgot to get needle nose pliers and found a multi-hex key to do the trick of bending the new screen’s hinges into place.

    Aaron Freidus - 返信

    Is this the entire top half of the computer or just the lcd assembly? It looks like your changing the whole thing?

    LyveMarketing - 返信

    So my new screen isnt connecting ugh unsure as to whether I accidentally damaged something, or it just doesn’t work with my Macbook

    epicdino123 - 返信

    Ok, help please, what did everyone’s screen look like BEFORE you did this repair? Mine had no display but you could see a slight blue lighted screen or backlight. No functionality though. I called Apple And they told me that it rarely happens, mine is only five years old and it would be probably between 600 and $800 to fix, and I could do something to hook it up to my TV the cable or just something else to hook it up to my iPad Pro. Put my son in Hawaii was to his trying to take over my screen couldn’t do that because I couldn’t except and he said he didn’t think I could take over my iPad because I would have to download an app and I had no wait to do that with a blank screen. ANY HELP?

    Marcy Wood - 返信

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

116 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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42 件のコメント

Can the clutch be replaced in the 2015 15" Retina MacBook Pro?

Thomas Taggart - 返信

Successfully replaced screen and everything is working great. One mechanical exception - the black clutch cover is loose on one side (the left side looking at the keyboard). i can "lift it" towards myself. it wasn't obvious while i was in there that there was a step to "hook it" into anything. what has it let go from and how do i go about ensuring that it's secure when it's flipped? Anyone know?

Thnaks!

J Allard - 返信

It was a perfect job! Thanks!

Mike Mell - 返信

Thank you! These instructions couldn't be better.

Devin Fredericks - 返信

Do you have any intention of releasing a guide for the new A1707 2016 pro retina model with touch bar? Thanks for your help.

Michael Moore - 返信

The Touch Bar models are definitely on our road map—it may be a while before we get to it, but we have every intention of writing and publishing those guides as soon as we can.

Jeff Suovanen -

Just bought my new 15 inch retina display replacement and after opening the cover I've noticed that the rubber on the bottom of the screen is off of the screen just like it isn't even attached on the screen and one of the hindges is loose.Is that normal or its faulty new display replacement screen?This is my first time dealing with this kind of replacement.Please help!

s.viktorijoski - 返信

Any word on the A1707 2016 pro retina model with touch bar? Will the 2015 replacement display work with that? If not, will you be selling it?

Dennis Britton - 返信

Any recommendations sources for a new screen? I'm in the UK and Apple won't sell them without fitting them. Any idea on what they cost? Thanks.

David - 返信

Hey did anyone have problems with the screen is blank when the started the computer back up after the screen replacement?

Thanks.

Gregory Lyall - 返信

Yes, I’ve having this problem. There’s no backlight, and I’m afraid to try my password again since I seem to have done something to it while working blind. To see if the computer is on, you can shine a flashlight to the plastic apple part on the back of the screen and see some of what’s on the screen.

But I don’t know how to fix this. I have noticed several comments about this in another iFixit instruction — mid-2014 — so it’s not an uncommon problem.

Lou Schiano -

Fantastic, just fantastic! Thank you yet again iFixit.

James - 返信

Worked like a charm. Thank you Bert much for this manual!

Diederick Magré - 返信

I saved myself ~$900 doing this myself instead of taking to Apple. Great tutorial! Worked perfectly!

Mel Dell - 返信

Given that the most useful thing you’re likely to do once the screen is removed is to remove the clutch cover to tighten the hinge screws, it would be great to show that too. Thanks for the guide that got me as far as getting the screen off.

Steve Evans - 返信

I followed the guide, and did not have any problems replacing the display! I bought the new display on ebay for around 250 EUR and the tools from ifixit for around 40 EUR(with shipping costs), so I kinda saved myself 600+ EUR at least. Thanks Ifixit :D

Adi - 返信

Worked, took me about an hour! Be careful of step 15, the hinges are not interchangeable.

Having troubles at startup, though — the new display works, but shows me an empty battery with a lightning bolt underneath. I plugged it in to charge overnight, and it still shows the same thing. Did I mess up a battery step?

Rachel - 返信

Followed the guide, took about an hour! The new display works, but one problem: it only shows an empty battery icon with a lightning bolt underneath. Is this a problem with reconnecting the battery?

Rachel - 返信

Excellent directions, thanks! I replaced my display with a minimum of drama, works great.

John Bumgardner - 返信

Great Instructions!!! Completed in 1.5 hours. We really appreciated the detailed photos. Saved us hundreds of $$$. Thank you.

jsmith_csi - 返信

Great Instructions. Took me about 1.5 hours and worked great! Saved us hundreds $$$ of dollars in repair costs. Thank you!

jsmith_csi - 返信

Also having the no backlight problem, and nothing shows up on the screen with flashlight in the Apple (white when on, black when off). Faulty display?

Samuel Keechler - 返信

I also have the same problem. Just black display.

silver story -

This worked like a charm. Had an old MacBook pro 2011 15’ that the motherboard cracked but the screen was fine. Friend dropped her 15’ MacBook pro and broke her screen so I used these instructions to swap the screen out - I felt like a total hero. Great job guys and thanks.

Dom - 返信

the macbook screen keeps going dark now any time that i leave it idle for more than 5 seconds. and it hasn’t went to sleep because the keyboard lights and the apple logo on the back are still lit up, even when i close the macbook lid shut. what could have possibly went wrong? how do i fix this ?

mr.solodolo175 - 返信

I just completed a display replacement for a friends MacBook Pro. He got a flawless cheap display assembly from eBay, and the whole process took only 25 minutes. Here is a time-lapse video for those who are interested in it: https://youtu.be/ac4ALQC8C9Y

Jan - 返信

Have to admit that I hesitated to spend $500 for the display because I doubted my ability to repair my MacBook Pro myself, but I took the plunge and purchased the display; followed the instructions to the letter along with the additional comments; and it worked like a charm.  Saved $1,000 in a repair bill at an Apple Service store.  Extend my appreciation to Andrew Optimus Goldberg for authoring this guide and the contributors for their additional follow-through comments.

Terri Mead - 返信

Not a difficult repair at all. I didn’t even have any trouble with the dreaded antenna connectors. The screen I found was $400, so definitely worth doing, as opposed to buying a whole new machine!

jiclark - 返信

Able to replace my broken display on MBP 15”. At first I thought something is wrong when I’ve attached the new display I’ve bought via Amazon. The problem is the model number. :)

After buying the correct model number for the display, it is not that super complicated. The guide really helped a lot.

silver story - 返信

Very informative!

Before I go ahead and try this I wanted to confirm something. I have a bright spot in the middle left of the screen, particularly visible on white background, also the top left and right corners have a slightly blueish glow with a dark background

i can provide pics, before I go shock and awe, is there anything I can do about those?

AlexMorse - 返信

Super Anleitung. Danke!

Thomas Karzelek - 返信

HEllo!

unfortunately, I bought a “new” display in ebay but it had problems with one of its antennas.

after having serious wireless connectivity problems (when bluetooth is on there is almost no wifi connectivity) and trying everything on the software side, i realised one of the antenna connectors was clumsily repaired. the company assumed one of the cables “must be broken”.

I am unable to return the item so i have to find a way to solve it.

would the problem be most likely in that reparation? or somewhere else?

https://ibb.co/XFwgn2c

tips about how to go through this mess?

especulario - 返信

It would be helpful to add the hinge adjustment as a step with a photo showing where the bend needs to be, how its done (where to grip it with pliers), and how to determine what the correct angle actually is.

I’m trying to repair one of these that was dropped from a distance on a carpet, face down while it was open. I was able to reattach the screen where it separated along the top with a heat gun, but the lid doesn’t close completely.

Richard Getter - 返信

Thank you, purchased your Pro tools at Micro Center, this video also helped.

Lou - 返信

I was trying to change the display cable

done thank you!

jacques

jacquessimard - 返信

opération terminé tout fonctionne merci beaucoup

patrick schmidt - 返信

One of the more straight forward display swaps. Compared to the Touch Bar displays these are cake. Takes 30-60 mins.

Ted Teske - 返信

Does anyone know if a screen from a 2013 Retina MacBook Pro 15” can be used in a 2015 Retina MacBook Pro 15”? There are distinct guides, but the connectors all look the same.

Sean Suchter - 返信

Where to find genuine screen (2015 mid 15” mac book pro)

Vijay Ila - 返信

Great stuff! The warnings were worth their weight in gold too, 15 minutes well spent :)

AlexMorse - 返信

Now the hard part is finding the actual display in stock at reasonable prices! :(

Juan Guzman - 返信

can you use regular LCD replacement on mid 2015 Retina Display?

Maxwell Merzin - 返信

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