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はじめに

Replacing the upper case requires the removal of nearly every component in your MacBook Pro. You will also need to transfer your old trackpad over to your new upper case.

ビデオの概要

  1. Remove the following ten screws:
    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws

    • When replacing the small screws, align them perpendicular to the slight curvature of the case (they don't go straight down).

    How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

    gunes314 - 返信

    You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

    Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

    Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

    Robert Wacker - 返信

    Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

    taylornya - 返信

    I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

    rodrigosady - 返信

    I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

    Michael Wilkens -

    My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

    jeremyyoung - 返信

    A good Phillips 00 is your friend here. Also, when reinserting the screws, gently start anticlockwise and you wil feel a click at the start of the thread. This tells you you’re in the right place and less likely to cross-thread through force in the wrong place.

    Iain Boyd - 返信

  2. Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent. Remove the lower case.
    • Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.

    • Remove the lower case.

  3. Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board. It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.
    • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

    Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

    manodh - 返信

    yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

    khull -

    Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

    aekinaka - 返信

    Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.

    Phil Wagner - 返信

  4. Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.
    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

    I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

    Stephen Smith - 返信

    That's a good tip

    Anrothan -

    Great tip, I did that too

    Ahmed Mahran -

    One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

    lelandjordon - 返信

    On my MacBook Pro, the connector seems to be an integral part of the battery.

    Jerry South - 返信

  5. Use the edge of a spudger to gently pry the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector. The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.
    • Use the edge of a spudger to gently pry the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

    • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

    I successfully soldered the fan connector back on for a friend. I used a small soldering iron (maybe 6-10 watts) and ground the tip down to a very fine point. Also used a magnifying light and very fine rosin core solder. I took my time and lined everything up and was careful not to heat any other junction unnecessarily.

    Scott Stanley - 返信

    Yup. Be careful on this one. I was trying to gently pry up and popped it off the socket. Computer working fine after replacing magsafe board, but no fan for cooling…

    Thomas Carr - 返信

    This one is really delicate, as pointed out.  Be careful if using the pointed end of a spudger NOT to dig down and under ….there’s a layer of plastic-y insulation that can be torn.  I accidentally gored it with the pointy end of a spudger and it was slightly ripped.  Fortunately, I was able to press it down and there was no problem when the cable was reinserted.

    Carolyn Ryan - 返信

    For less than $16 I ordered a new fan from amazon. Fans eventually start making noise. If they fail, your system could expire from heat. Consider simply replacing your fan since this model is now about five years old. Here’s link:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FWP...

    airshack - 返信

    I used a guitar pick and gently wiggled underneath to lift it up and out of the socket. no damage! woo hoo! on to step 7!

    jcundy2 - 返信

    I simply skipped this step and left fan wire connected to logic board. Just unscrew screws from Step 6, put fan on the logic board and remove whole stuff togheter.

    paczor - 返信

    Thanks, I did that too,,

    a lot easier

    Ahmed Mahran -

    Yes, tricky. Insert the spudger just like in the photo. You won’t be able to dig it out out from any other side. Also, notice which side of the connector faces down into the socket: it is the side without the four shiny gold areas (again, just like in the photo).

    rmccord23 - 返信

  6. Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the logic board:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the logic board:

    • One 7.2 mm T6 Torx screw

    • Two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws

    These are T5 screws

    dbell316 - 返信

    I think so too, (maybe on a certain batch?) tried a T6 and its too big

    billytalentlovexo -

    I wasn’t able to open mine up. The heads looked like little triangles instead of hex torqx things. Is there a chart with the head shape of all the bits you can buy? I want to just get the one.

    Christopher Roode - 返信

    They might be tri point

    Daniele Carminati -

    they were T6 for me

    lamajr - 返信

  7. Lift the fan out of its recess in the logic board, minding its cable that may get caught.
    • Lift the fan out of its recess in the logic board, minding its cable that may get caught.

  8. Use the tip of a spudger to pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the upper case. Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the upper case.

    • Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    Reminder: When replacing the cable the connector should be placed in from above. This fooled me and I damaged the seat a bit, but not enough to prevent proper connection.

    Lee Hughart - 返信

    Excellent guide, I feel this bit could be clearer tho. As it is a socket like a fan connector.

    Mine had a foam pad on the top like the other lift-up connections and I’ve accidentally taken the socket off.

    So just to be aware if your mac has the foam pad on top of this connection.

    acupton86 - 返信

  9. Disconnect the camera cable from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the camera cable from the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Pulling the cable upward may damage the logic board or the cable itself.

    The camera cable head has bump at both sides. Just use two spudgers to pry it out.

    townbull - 返信

    thank you great suggestion

    Soham Thacker -

    Here's where the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes its first major departure from this guide. No such connection exists. At least nowhere I could find on the motherboard.

    Larry Horton - 返信

    IIRC the official service manual suggests putting the blunt or wide edge of a black-stick/spudger underneath the cable and then pressing down on said cable to provide better gripping force while pulling the cable out/away from the connector. It’s my tried-and-true method of choice.

    James - 返信

    Anyone has a data of this cable becausei brkoe it and i have an other same connector ??

    Mail : mr.leminecrafteur@gmail.com

    VARE - 返信

    Just broke this cable by pulling to hard. Definitely use a spudger to pry out the connector instead of pulling the cable.

    maxpoetter - 返信

    Same, any suggestion about its replacement?

    giovanni.billet - 返信

    Really grip those little bumps on the head with a pair of pliers and gently wiggle!

    moonsugar33 - 返信

    In case you need replacement parts for the broken cable : http://www.powerbookmedic.com/MacBook-Pr...

    To find out how to replace the cable, you can have a look at this tutorial : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...

    Guillaume Lamaison - 返信

  10. Disconnect the following four cables: AirPort/Bluetooth cable
    • Disconnect the following four cables:

    • AirPort/Bluetooth cable

    • Optical drive cable

    • Hard drive cable

    • Trackpad cable

    • To disconnect the cables, use the flat end of a spudger to pry their connectors up from the sockets on the logic board.

    On the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the Airport/Bluetooth cable is different from the other three cables in this step. It's fabric wrapped, and its connection works in a fashion more like the display data cable connection, although it does not have a lock that releases by pulling a tab back over the cable. So, to those of you who are repairing this model, be careful. Prying upward is not the way to remove this cable. I played with it until I could detect which parts were moving which way and why. Although I can't say with precision how the connection works, I removed it by gently coaxing slightly up at an angle and back along the plane of the optical drive. The idea is to pull the cable back out of its socket while lifting slightly.

    Too bad we can't post photos in the comments.

    Larry Horton - 返信

    Same with the Mid 2010 model - moving the cable parallel to the board, towards the optical device works fine.

    Hans - 返信

    It is advised to tape all those connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - 返信

  11. Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
    • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

    • The cable may be difficult to insert. If you are having trouble, temporarily attach a piece of tape to the cable to help you guide the cable into the socket.

    Hello i've a late 2011 and have manged to break the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Is this a part that can be replaced? Ribbon is still good just the plastic has broken on the edge. Thanks

    Derek Cowan - 返信

    No, You'll need to replace the logic board. I'd probably just use a wired or bluetooth keyboard and put the money towards a new machine.

    maccentric -

    I ran into trouble reattaching the keyboard ribbon cable into the ZIF socket. I couldn't grasp it in a way that let me push it all the all back. A local repair guy told me his trick: use a piece of tape. Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.

    David - 返信

    Buy that man a pint! I've been working on computers professionally for a decade and I've never thought of that trick. Brilliant!

    Gryyphyn -

    Amazing this saved me!

    Felipe Cordero -

    You've saved me countless hours of crying trying to simply push it in

    Tunipguy -

    Thanks! This saved me hours!

    Marc Steffen -

    Thank you so much. Very clever idea that works like a charm!

    Todd Walls -

    Thank you so much! After 15 minutes of frustration, it inserted in less than 5 seconds.

    Todd Walls -

    After I put it all back together, the keyboard didn’t work; I traced it to this cable not being plugged in all the way. I used the tape trick to coax it all the way in to seat well and it works like a charm.

    Ruedi Schubarth - 返信

    Thanks for the tip about keyboard ribbon, saved me a major headache

    domhnallk - 返信

    It’s worth pointing out that the lever to lift this is at the back of the connector and that you’re pulling it towards yourself - this then releases the plastic on top of the cable that’s holding it in place.

    Nick Watts - 返信

    The tape tirck saved my bacon!! Thank YOU!

    Jonathan Davis - 返信

    Thanks so much. This trick saved the day!!!!

    Rafael Giuliano - 返信

    It is advised to tape this connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - 返信

  12. If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the keyboard backlight cable socket.
    • If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the keyboard backlight cable socket.

    The bottom of the small strip has excellent adhesive which will re-stick upon reassembly without any problems. I handled the sticky side and even stuck it to a plastic tray without any issues. Which is to say the sticky-ness does not seem to wear off.

    airshack - 返信

    This is the most difficult ribbon cable to reinsert. As noted in the comments for the keyboard ribbon cable above I’d recommend also using a a small piece of tape to help reinsert.

    Bill Kirby - 返信

    I used Blu-Tac on the end of my spudger to provide a gentle grip to get it to slide in.

    moonsugar33 - 返信

    It is advised to tape this connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - 返信

  13. Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

    The first time I reassembled the system I left this tiny ribbon connector under the logic board by accident. If your keyboard backlight no longer works after reassembly it’s because you forgot to reattach this small connector. Fortunately, I caught my mistake before securing the logic board screws. It’s an easy to miss item.

    airshack - 返信

    It is advised to tape this connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - 返信

  14. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the sleep sensor/battery indicator connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the sleep sensor/battery indicator connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    the sleep sensor/battery indicator were not included with my new case, i had to transfer them over from my old case. once the battery is out (step 22), you can see the three screws you need to remove in order to take it out. it’s also secured by adhesive. the button for the battery indicator will likely fall out (at least it did on mine) when you remove the board, so be careful not to lose it…my new case did come with the button for the battery indicator (even though it didn’t come with the board or cable), but i just re-used the old one.

    Matt - 返信

    I forgot to place this tiny flex cable on top of the mainboard, and tried to recover it from under (lazy!) so I broke it.

    In general I would tape all those connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - 返信

    Update: the computer works even without this feature. Of course the led battery indicator does not work, but it is not a big loss.

    dbovey - 返信

  15. Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    Its quite delicate, pull gently and it will pop out with a slight clicking sound

    Leo Jose - 返信

    On my mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the display data cable was square with the motherboard, rather than at an angle. I'm not experienced with working on computer connections, but if I were going to describe this procedure, it would be more like:

    "Grasp the plastic tab on the end of the display data cable connection, and pull it gently back over the cable, toward the DC-in board. The tab is connected to a flat rectangular 'ring' that locks the cable to its connection, and when you pull the tab, the rectangular lock will flip back over the cable, allowing the cable to be removed by pulling the same direction, parallel to the surface of the motherboard."

    Larry Horton - 返信

    Exactly the same as on the Mid2010 Model - never pull up, always parallel to the board, using the spudger to keep the cable down might helpfull while pulling with fingers the cable towards DC-In at the right side.

    Hans -

    My display is not working after reassemble the mac.

    Any reason?

    Nitin Sonwal - 返信

    I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back!

    Shannon Maguire -

    I choose not to remove this, just laid the board over. Worked just fine.

    Justin Patterson - 返信

    I second this. It’s quite easy to leave this connection in place. The board flips over nicely, and everything is still accessible.

    Steven Weeks -

    I used my phone to photograph the entire underside of the Macbook Pro before I started removing things. This photo helped augment the excellent photos here. Take a few close-ups of each section/item before disassembly to reference upon assembly.

    airshack - 返信

    when reattaching the display cable, i used the spudger to tuck the spongy top flap underneath the cable lock, so that i could then get the cable lock down the entire way. i couldn’t get it under there (and get the lock closed) without it, the top part of the display cable blocked it.

    Matt - 返信

    When replaced the logic board when reassembled lap top screens not working. Saw others similar issues plugged in my monitor it’s working great must have messed up any ideas how to fix?

    Wayne McCarthy - 返信

    Hi Wayne, and Michael! I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back! —Shannon

    Shannon Maguire -

    My display is not working after I put everything back together, can hear the macbook chime. Tried shining light onto the display, see nothing. Tried loosening the screw slightly like someone suggested here, that does not help either. Tried cleaning the contacts of the LVDS cable, nothing. Any help appreciated.

    Don Seenu - 返信

  16. Remove the following nine screws:
    • Remove the following nine screws:

    • Five 3.6 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 4.3 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 7.2 mm T6 Torx screws

    • In some models the screws may be slightly shorter as follows:

    • Five 3.0 mm T6 screws

    • Two 3.6 mm T6 screws

    • Two 6.7 mm T6 screws

    2 of the 7 listed 4mm screws attaching the logic board are actually 4.5 or 5 mm.... unfortunately. I didn't notice that until I was reassembling. so I don't know which positions they came from.

    starf1970 - 返信

    I'm just noticing this too... I've put the longer screws as the two on the far left of the picture because they seemed to be the two holes I couldn't see the bottom to.

    ForumHermit -

    Just took one apart and paid attention this time. On this Mac, the screws colored orange should be red, and the 2 screws on the left side of the board should be orange (they’re a bit longer).

    maccentric -

    For keeping the screws straight I drew a simple diagram and placed them on it head down/threads up in their respective positions. Then all screws went back into their original positions without any guess work. Another suggestion I have during assembly is to start the screws without torquing them all the way down - leave them a little loose to allow some adjustment of the logic board for getting them all to line up with their holes, then torque them down. This technique also works for the screws on the bottom cover/lower case.

    Great guide! Saved me some dough, and now my MagSafe connector stays nice and cool.

    gregory mogle - 返信

    for me the two on the farthest left were the 4.3mm screws. otherwise all went as described

    Levi Hoover - 返信

    on something like this (like in iphones) i print the picture and place the screws on the picture. saves some problems and guessing.

    jeff chasalow - 返信

  17. Remove the following two screws: One 8.6 mm Phillips screw
    • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 5.5 mm Phillips screw

    • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

    Definitely not necessary to remove this bracket. You can disconnect the mic from the logic board and not have to deal with this bracket.

    kc7gnm77 - 返信

  18. Use the tip of a spudger to gently peel the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to gently peel the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    Careful with this one. The wires are very thin fragile and it’s glued down very well making it extremely hard to remove. Just go slow and be patient otherwise you’ll damage the wires.

    Rob Kruit - 返信

    I finally got that mic out by gripping it between two spudgers like a pair of chopsticks and gently pulling it out at an angle. The rubber shroud on it makes the thing hard to grip, and when I finally pulled it free, part of the adhesive ring tore off and stayed stuck to the chassis. When reassembling the machine, I had to kind of squish it back into place. It doesn’t hold quite as well as it did before, but it seems fine.

    Thomas - 返信

    I managed to get the board out without prying the microphone off by twisting the board out while the microphone is still connected.

    You can then disconnect the microphone cable, which is a similar style connector to the fan cable and remove the board completely

    Alex - 返信

    Vraiment pénible cette déconnection, allez y gentiment et la colle partira.

    raph raph - 返信

    when reseating the logic board, first install the DC board in position and loosely seat the screws. then try to align the logic board to the 3.6mm screw housing closest to the firewire/ thunderbolt port and align the board to the ports and gently drop it into position. watch out for the cables that can get snagged under the board while seating it.

    Avocet Peregrine - 返信

  19. Minding the many connectors near its edges, lift the logic board from the end nearest the optical drive.
    • Minding the many connectors near its edges, lift the logic board from the end nearest the optical drive.

    • Without flexing the board, maneuver it out of the upper case, minding the flexible connection to the DC-In board that may get caught in the upper case.

    • Remove the logic board.

    I had the same issue. After wiggling the logic board back and forth and slowly applying more force, just up the threshold where I felt uncomfortable, it came out. The problem appeared to be caused by glue on the heatsink barcode sticking to the layer underneath.

    Shaun - 返信

    I did all this, and worked! .but Im wondering, has anybody unscrewed what seems to be a mini heatsink (black 1 inch square housing) on the integrated GPU? Could I re apply paste on that?

    tony perry - 返信

    I did make the change yesterday. inside it has a thermal pad, that appears to be 3mm or less. i try to clean on my best. I make a making a very tick pea size and added again. but i have no idea if it works or not. still having temps on 56c on idle. there is no much info on that. i use MX-4 from arctic. but i still, in my option, a little to for my use. if someone have more info on that part on the late 2011 i7 macbook pro 13inch please send the info.

    Carlos De Bernard -

    I did and applied Arctic Silver 5 underneath instead of the crap tape they put under there. This alone stopped the random freezing and rebooting problem I was having with this macbook pro. I recommend if you're already that deep into it, you might as well do it. I'm glad I did.

    ej257lgt -

    Need help. After I put everything back together, everything works fine but my macbook just wont charge. Any diagnosis on this? Anyone who can explain to me how the battery and the charging work in a Mac?

    justfinditjoshyip - 返信

    If this happened to me, I would first suspect I hadn't completely connected the DC-in board cable. If I hadn't just replaced the battery, I would wonder if the battery was good. MagSafe power cable connect connections fail too, especially if they've been attached for a long time to a red hot DC-in board.

    If those failed, I'd head to the genius bar!

    Larry Horton -

    I had this problem. I accidentally cut the a cable from the DC-in board and I had to buy this component and replace it. You have to be very careful when mounting back the logic board in its position to not get a cable from the DC-in board cut by the screws.

    Enrique Cerrillo Cuenca -

    I broke the black backlight shield.... be careful when you feel the logic board and the film underneath it seem stickinig togethre.

    EUNAE JO - 返信

    The fan exhaust grille was catching onto the speaker unit so I had to skip to step 28 to take it out. After taking out the airport card the speaker was able to move away from the fan grille and let me lift out the logic board.

    Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - 返信

    Also be sure to lift up the logic board to a slight angle so it clears the optical drive then pull it out gently at that angle. Do not pull it ulwards.

    Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - 返信

    The mainboard got stuck with the speaker and I can't lift it up. So I removed the first speaker screw (Wich is nearest to the mainboard) then I was able to remove the mainboard

    Mauricio Larrea - 返信

  20. Remove the following two screws:
    • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 5.6 mm Tri-point screw

    • One 13 mm Tri-point screw

    I remove the battery first before removing the logic board. Makes it easier to get the logic board out

    kc7gnm77 - 返信

  21. Carefully peel the battery warning label off the upper case between the battery and the optical drive.
    • Carefully peel the battery warning label off the upper case between the battery and the optical drive.

    • Do not remove the label from the battery.

  22. Use the attached plastic pull tab to help remove the battery from the upper case.
    • Use the attached plastic pull tab to help remove the battery from the upper case.

    once the battery is out, you may also need to remove the sleep sensor/battery indicator and move it to your new case if it didn’t come with them. mine didn’t, so i had to do so…it’s secured by three screws (i believe phillips) and some adhesive. the battery indicator button was loose on mine and just fell out when i removed the board, so be careful not to lose it.

    Matt - 返信

  23. Remove the two Phillips screws securing the hard drive bracket to the upper case. These screws will remain captive to the hard drive bracket.
    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the hard drive bracket to the upper case.

    • These screws will remain captive to the hard drive bracket.

    • Remove the hard drive bracket.

    • The hard drive bracket may be firmly seated against the upper case.

  24. Use the attached pull tab to lift the hard drive out of the upper case. Pull the hard drive cable away from the body of the hard drive. Remove the hard drive.
    • Use the attached pull tab to lift the hard drive out of the upper case.

    • Pull the hard drive cable away from the body of the hard drive.

    • Remove the hard drive.

  25. Remove the following four screws:
    • Remove the following four screws:

    • Two 3 mm Phillips screws

    • Two 9.7 mm Phillips screws

  26. Carefully peel up the thin IR sensor/sleep LED ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
    • Carefully peel up the thin IR sensor/sleep LED ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

  27. Pull the front hard drive bracket containing the IR sensor/sleep LED away from the front edge of the upper case. Remove the hard drive cable.
    • Pull the front hard drive bracket containing the IR sensor/sleep LED away from the front edge of the upper case.

    • Remove the hard drive cable.

  28. Carefully move the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable out of the way as you peel the camera cable off the adhesive securing it to the subwoofer and the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.
    • Carefully move the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable out of the way as you peel the camera cable off the adhesive securing it to the subwoofer and the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.

    • De-route the camera cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.

  29. Disconnect the four antenna connectors boxed in red in the first picture. To do so, use the tip of a spudger to pry their connectors up from the sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth board. De-route each of the cables from their channels in the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.
    • Disconnect the four antenna connectors boxed in red in the first picture.

    • To do so, use the tip of a spudger to pry their connectors up from the sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth board.

    • De-route each of the cables from their channels in the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.

    I did not even disconnect these cables, because they are easily damaged when reattaching. I just left them in their sockets and folded the whole assembly back and out of my way, when I needed to take out and replace the keyboard.

    Jurgen - 返信

    they are ”antenna connectors” going to the “AirPort/Bluetooth” assembly so I am guessing they are needed for the bluetooth. I removed them with a pair of small flat screwdrivers to gently walk them out of the sockets - which are quite deep.

    jeremyyoung - 返信

    One cable snapped on reassembly. It snapped from inside the copper band where the wires are bare of coating. This is figured made all three of these wires interface and share whatever they are transmitting. So, I crimped the broken wire’s ends and shoved it back into the sleeve. I have tested my wireless features for two days and everything works like a charm.

    Lee Hughart - 返信

  30. Remove the following five screws:
    • Remove the following five screws:

    • Two 10.3 mm Phillips screws

    • Two 3.1 mm Phillips screws

    • One 5 mm Phillips screw

    The second picture shows exactly how things are assembled, so looking at the picture tells you if you done any mistake or not. The first picture is very good for an overview the second to show the details.

    MacWiniac - 返信

    While reassembling make sure the small metal ring attached to the longest antenna cable goes under the left 'red' screw.

    haabee - 返信

  31. Pull the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly and the Subwoofer upward near the center of the side of the optical drive until they clear each other. Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth board assembly.
    • Pull the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly and the Subwoofer upward near the center of the side of the optical drive until they clear each other.

    • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth board assembly.

    When reassembling be sure the camera cable is tucked into the case at this point. Otherwise it will end up on top of the cable bundle and be too close to the bottom case lip.

    Ron - 返信

  32. Remove the three 2.7 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case.
    • Remove the three 2.7 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case.

  33. Lift the optical drive from the edge nearest the display and remove it from the upper case.
    • Lift the optical drive from the edge nearest the display and remove it from the upper case.

  34. Peel the right speaker cable off the upper case.
    • Peel the right speaker cable off the upper case.

    Need to put the vertical piece just above the demonstrator's hand into the new case, or else the CD/DVD drive, logic board, and fan are missing screw holds.

    Carroll Cadden - 返信

    This is where I stopped following the guide because I was only replacing the keyboard. (There are sooo many screws holding the keyboard down. It took a long time.)

    Reed Deemer - 返信

  35. Use a plastic opening tool or another thin prying object to carefully pry the right speaker up from the adhesive securing it to the upper case. Start prying up from the edge of the right speaker nearest the display. Starting from the other side may damage one of the antennas.
    • Use a plastic opening tool or another thin prying object to carefully pry the right speaker up from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    • Start prying up from the edge of the right speaker nearest the display. Starting from the other side may damage one of the antennas.

    • Pry up along the edge of the right speaker until it is separated from the upper case.

    tip: not only start at the end closest to the display, but start as close to the optical drive slot as you can get. i had to get way back there in order to get underneath the speaker to pry it loose.

    Matt - 返信

    This was perhaps the hardest step. I could not get under the recommended side and had to start at the other end. The speaker was adhered so tight to the keyboard it was impossible to pry up on the right side. But no damage was done.

    Lee Hughart - 返信

  36. Pull the right speaker out from under the optical drive opening.
    • Pull the right speaker out from under the optical drive opening.

    What is that plate with the antenna attached? the one that sits under the speaker? My new upper case doesn't have that on there

    stdonato - 返信

    Fourth- antenna wasn’t on the replacement case. I peeled the antenna off the old case (starting opposite the cable) and removed the disc screen, put both in the new case. The new case doesn’t have a hole for the screw securing the top of the antenna but the adhesive should hold it fine. I’m not sure if that screw acts as a grounding point, because there’s a bracket further up that antenna that also provides a ground from the shielding.

    Ruedi Schubarth - 返信

    i also had to remove the plate with the antenna underneath to transfer it to the new case. there is an additional screw you need to remove in order to do this (you can see it just to the left of the index finger on the hand in the picture), and it was also attached by adhesive. i removed the screw and then used the spudger to get under the plate and loosen it from the adhesive.

    unlike the previous commenter, there was a screw hole on my new case to re-attach the antenna plate (in addition to the adhesive).

    Matt - 返信

    Does anyone actually know what it is for though? Is it necessary?

    Maria ayers - 返信

    It’s either for the Bluetooth or AirPort or possibly WiFi. I don’t know which one. Given the possible applications it’s probably best to move it to the replacement case. Just be careful not to bend it when removing since I don’t know how delicate the internal construction is. Also, when installing it in the new case, make sure it’s stuck down well, maybe even add some new double side tape. Where it’s positioned, if it pops up it could block access to the optical drive.

    Raymond Ives -

    As indicated, carefully remove the metal plate where the antenna is soldered. The plate is glued to the unibody topcase. It came loose when forcing a long strong tool like a flathead screwdriver underneath (spudger too weak) and following the metal plate from the hinge down along the superdrive opening. Careful not to damage the solders. The metal plate is so thin it could tear, but it comes loose quite evenly. Careful here!

    fbr - 返信

  37. Remove two of the three 6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right side of the display to the upper case.
    • Remove two of the three 6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right side of the display to the upper case.

    • We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

  38. Remove the small piece of foam tape covering the left display hinge screws.
    • Remove the small piece of foam tape covering the left display hinge screws.

  39. Remove two of the three 6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the left side of the display to the upper case.
    • Remove two of the three 6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the left side of the display to the upper case.

    • We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

  40. Open your MacBook Pro so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.
    • Open your MacBook Pro so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.

    • Place your opened MacBook Pro on a table as pictured.

    • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

  41. Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.
    • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

    These are the remaining T6 screws

    Benjamin Teasel - 返信

  42. Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case. Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case. Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.
    • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

    • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

    • Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

    • Upper case remains.

  43. Remove the four 1.2 mm Phillips screws highlighted in red.
    • Remove the four 1.2 mm Phillips screws highlighted in red.

  44. Carefully dislodge the edge of the trackpad closest to the keyboard from its recess in the upper case by pushing it away from the brackets attached to the upper case.
    • Carefully dislodge the edge of the trackpad closest to the keyboard from its recess in the upper case by pushing it away from the brackets attached to the upper case.

    • De-route the trackpad cable through its slot cut into the upper case.

    I concur with Anonymous 596. There is a support wall that runs front to back, under keyboard, held down by 2 Phillips screws that will need to be removed & transferred to new upper case. You can see it being touched by index finger in this pic.

    lamajr - 返信

  45. Pull the trackpad away from the outer edge of the upper case.
    • Pull the trackpad away from the outer edge of the upper case.

    • Remove the trackpad and set it aside.

    There's a missing step here. In addition to the trackpad, there's an aluminum structural piece that sits under the center of the keyboard, that has to be migrated from old to new case. It's clearly shown to the left of the repair-person's right hand in step 44.

    anonymous 596 - 返信

  46. In the following steps, you will be working on your new upper case.
    • In the following steps, you will be working on your new upper case.

    • Use a T6 Torx screwdriver to loosely install the 1.1 mm set screw included with your new upper case into its tapped hole near the middle of the trackpad opening on your new upper case.

    • Only tighten it about one turn for now.

    I bought a used replacement case and had to move a few parts from the old case to the replacement. This included the battery indicator cable, the clips for the trackpad and the bracket in the center of the top case. So worth it at this point to compare your old and replacement case to be sure everything you need is there.

    Ron - 返信

    my new case came with the set screw already installed, and i couldn’t loosen it. i didn’t want to strip it and cause a bigger problem, so i left it alone. the trackpad seems to work fine so far regardless, although i may take the bottom case off and play with it a little if i get a chance.

    i also (just like Ron) had to move the trackpad clips, battery indicator and center bracket to the new case. they were not included.

    Matt - 返信

  47. Carefully insert the cable from your old trackpad through its slot cut into your new upper case. Use one hand to hold the trackpad cable in place as you insert the two retaining tabs on the outer edge of the trackpad under the lip on the upper case.
    • Carefully insert the cable from your old trackpad through its slot cut into your new upper case.

    • Use one hand to hold the trackpad cable in place as you insert the two retaining tabs on the outer edge of the trackpad under the lip on the upper case.

    • Pull the trackpad cable as you seat the trackpad into its void in your new upper case.

  48. Insert a 1.2 mm Phillips screw into each of the outer holes drilled into the trackpad (two screws total).
    • Insert a 1.2 mm Phillips screw into each of the outer holes drilled into the trackpad (two screws total).

    • You'll install the rest in a bit.

    • Tighten the screws, then back them out about a quarter turn to aid in aligning your trackpad during the next few steps.

  49. While continually trying to click your trackpad, gently tighten the T6 Torx set screw until the clicks return to their factory "feel."
    • While continually trying to click your trackpad, gently tighten the T6 Torx set screw until the clicks return to their factory "feel."

    • You can tell when the screw is tightened just right by the noise it makes when the trackpad clicks. If the set screw is too loose, the trackpad will have excessive play before it clicks. If it is too tight, the trackpad will click too easily and won't make the characteristic loud mouse clicking noise.

  50. Next, flip your upper case over so the keyboard side is facing up.
    • Next, flip your upper case over so the keyboard side is facing up.

    • Align the trackpad so it is centered in its hole cut into the upper case.

  51. Tighten the outer two screws along the inner edge of the trackpad and check the alignment of it on the outer side of the upper case.
    • Tighten the outer two screws along the inner edge of the trackpad and check the alignment of it on the outer side of the upper case.

    • If its alignment looks good, install the rest of the Phillips screws along the inner edge of the trackpad.

    • Before reassembling your machine, verify that the set screw is still installed in a position so the mouse will click correctly.

    You can actually replace the keyboard alone fairly easily! I don't know why everyone says you have to replace the whole top case, because if you've got the guts to go this far, you might as well just peel back the illuminator cover and get to work pulling all those tiny screws in the keyboard... Just be careful when peeling up the black adhesive keyboard cover, because you will need to replace it. I used the edge of the ifixit Sesame tool (very thin flat metal opening tool) to carefully slip under any bits of adhesive, and had the keyboard exposed in no time. Also be careful because the clear plastic sheet is actually the keyboard illuminator. Once under all that, it's a mere 50 or so tiny screws, 2 screws in the power button backing, and you've got the keyboard out. Use a magnetized #000 phillips, it will make life much easier than anything else.

    Logan Bean - 返信

    Absolutely right. I just replaced a keyboard the same way without much problem but i just want to add that those tiny screws need extra care as the heads can get damaged very easily. If damaged, they become very difficult to remove.

    Masood -

    I did just that on my mid-2010 MacBook Pro about a month ago and sadly will have to do it to my wife's Early-2011 one next week. I was cleaning all the crap off her keyboard and apparently nuked the K and 0 keys on her keyboard. Probably my ply challenge was aligning the keyboard illuminator. It's still not aligned properly on mine so some keys are better lit than others, but otherwise it was a relatively easy fix and far cheaper than replacing the entire upper case.

    John Adam Wickliffe -

    I replaced my keyboard less than an hour ago. The biggest pain/most time consuming was reattaching the ZIF connector for the keyboard and backlight. No matter what I did I could not get the %#*@ thing to reattach. What sadist designs these things? I had to walk away from the project for an hour and finally success.

    All those screws will make you go crosseyed!

    Gordon - 返信

    It helps to put some tape along the cable going lengthwise to the cable, and then fold the end of the tape onto itself to give yourself something to hold onto. This will give you some leverage to get that puppy into the socket.

    maccentric -

    I’m glad you managed !!!

    I’m suffering :( take a part about 5 times…… ordered new (used) keyboard, the same results. I tested logic board in my daughter MAC, board works 100% no trouble ……. what could be wrong? there a secret how to reassemble keyboard parts together? I ripped a little bit black plastic thing, not top one with tiny connectors……

    In the end I have two keyboards, cleaned and taken a part, both of them acting identical when installed. Some keys respond by giving absolutely not relevant symbols, beeping noise come with almost every key i pressed…..

    Recovering after massive cappuccino spell after surprising hug :(((((

    Aleksandra Perry -

    I swear to post photo step by step, if I will achieve this one……….. assemble back to 100% working condition after total reassembling, ultrasonic cleaning and drying………. just keyboard panel.

    Give me nightmares :) will be first time I have so much trouble to fix………

    Aleksandra Perry -

    I'm wondering about putting it back together. Different wires and small parts etc were glued or adhered in some way to the case or sides or whatever, as it is put together in the beginning. Is that just to make it easier to put it back together? Should I try to stick them back the way they were with something? Can you use tape or glue if it's just a wire? I wouldn't want to use something that would melt...or is this not something to worry apout?

    ingwis - 返信

    I just used 1/4 polymide tape, and iFixit double sided tape. Works like a champ.

    Brent Hillyer -

終わりに

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

117 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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12 件のコメント

This is a great guide. Just replaced my keyboard after a spill. It's definitely a harrowing experience, especially getting all those 67 microscopic screws holding the keyboard against the top side. But if you sit down with approximately 2 beers (wouldn't recommend more or you'll probably start making mistakes), it's a perfectly manageable 3-4 hour experience. Just take it slow!

Nathan Beach - 返信

If I replace just the keyboard, are there any steps that I can skip?

Duane Wood -

Just finished replacing the top cover assembly. The biggest problem I had was re-inserting the ZIF connectors for the keyboard and backlight. There isn’t enough room for my fat fingers to line up the cable with the socket. The angled tweezers applied carefully (don’t want to puncture or rip the cable) and a little help from a spudger made it happen. When switching the cases check carefully for “missing” parts. Besides the trackpad, the upper case I got from iFixit lacked the center support bracket for the optical drive and logic board, the little screw bracket for the bottom case and the antenna stuck to the case behind the right speaker. The antenna is a little fiddly because it’s stickied to the case and there’s not much room to pry it out without bending and possibly damaging it.

All that said, it wasn’t a particularly difficult job, just labor intensive. And the wife’s reaction to getting her business computer back without buying a new one was worth it.

Raymond Ives -

Just finished this and the only things I would add deal with the metal plate that hold the power meter button in is not mentioned and luckily I was able to slide the cable under the logic board and make the connection. otherwise it would be good to add this step before you re insert the logic board. Also the black and orange rubber part that is the bottom of the hard drive mount. They just lift out of the old case and slide into the new case. And there is a metal piece below the speaker that needs to be transferred as well.

Otherwise great guild.

maxcasas21 - 返信

I just replaced the keyboard with all those pesky screws. But all is working again. I missed the part in replacing the keyboard itself in the first place. You need to have the sheets in the right order and in the right orientation. Also does it need removal of the stiffening bar that run along the keyboard. I forgot when I removed it, so I was a bit puzzeld when to put it back. Would be nice to add those steps also to this otherwise perfect guide!

haabee - 返信

Thank you! I went on to replace the keyboard itself, which I found for $20. If I do it again I will make a guide.

steven - 返信

This video might help in replacing the keyboard part. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCmPqsvV...

pzb4 - 返信

Just changed the upper cover, no way we could have done this without these instructions, many thumbs up

Saumil Patel - 返信

Worked great only took about 45 minutes and works like brand new. I had already purchased another MacBook and just set the old one aside believing it was dead. But great experience, fast shipping, and easy tutorials. Love it

carston staehr - 返信

After seeing how many screws were required to replace just the keyboard I decided I would much rather not risk losing one in the carpet or to the cat or half of them stripping (someone in the factory was lazy when they put my macbook together, half the screws were stripped the first time I opened the case) I went with the full top case replacement and I am so glad I did. Some bits may be slightly different if you had your macbook custom built and/or have made modifications along the way like I have, but overall the guide is perfect. Took me about three hours with distractions, but now my Y key works again and the entire setup is beautifully dust and cat hair free!

vcole - 返信

Great guide. It would be nice to add the steps for replacing the keyboard / backlight - it wasn’t too hard but added at least an hour to the job !

I think its worth using threadlock on the screws as they often work loose later if you don’t

jonathan ansell - 返信

additional info.

because i only need to change keyboard, i didn’t do steps 25~27 and 35~37

note: for keyboard removal use this guide step 27~29 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 Keyboard Replacement (guide 23632)

sai - 返信

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