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はじめに

Use this guide to replace the LCD rather than the entire display assembly.

  1. Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:
    • Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge - 返信

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover - 返信

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh - 返信

  2. Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.
    • Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike - 返信

  3. For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge.
    • For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

    gansodesoyaからの引用:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane - 返信

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung - 返信

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond - 返信

  4. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the subwoofer/right speaker cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the subwoofer/right speaker cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    Mine had a small piece of insulating material on top of the connector. By removing that first, I could then pry up the connector with less stress on the cable.

    istlota - 返信

    Great tip! Thanks.

    juliet - 返信

  5. Disconnect the camera cable by pulling the male end straight away from its socket.
    • Disconnect the camera cable by pulling the male end straight away from its socket.

    • Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board and toward the optical drive, not straight up from its socket.

  6. De-route the camera data cable from the channel in the optical drive.
    • De-route the camera data cable from the channel in the optical drive.

    for easy dismantle, just remove 2 screw of subwoofer

    Mohamad Faizal Sharudin - 返信

  7. Remove the following screws: Two 10 mm Phillips screws
    • Remove the following screws:

    • Two 10 mm Phillips screws

    • One 3.8 mm Phillips screw

    • Slide the camera cable bracket out from under the subwoofer and remove it from the computer.

  8. Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket. Make sure to pull the connector straight away and not straight up from its socket.
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket.

    • Make sure to pull the connector straight away and not straight up from its socket.

  9. Remove the following two screws securing the display data cable bracket to the upper case: One 8.6 mm Phillips screw
    • Remove the following two screws securing the display data cable bracket to the upper case:

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 5.6 mm Phillips screw

    • Lift the display data cable bracket out of the upper case.

  10. If present, remove the small strip of foam tape stuck to the display screws near the display data cable.
    • If present, remove the small strip of foam tape stuck to the display screws near the display data cable.

  11. Remove the two outer 6.5 mm T8 Torx screws securing each of the two display brackets to the upper case (4 screws total). Remove the two outer 6.5 mm T8 Torx screws securing each of the two display brackets to the upper case (4 screws total).
    • Remove the two outer 6.5 mm T8 Torx screws securing each of the two display brackets to the upper case (4 screws total).

    You may have to lift/remove a foam tape on the left side as well

    Sebastien CHAPUIS - 返信

  12. Open your MacBook so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.
    • Open your MacBook so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.

    • Place your opened MacBook on a table as pictured.

    • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining 6.5 mm T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

  13. Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.
    • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

    When reassembling, Careful not to drop your screw, or it may get stuck to the (magnetic) power adapter port. Oops!

    Save yourself some time and don't drop it!

    rowdyferret - 返信

  14. Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case. Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.
    • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

    • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

    Make sure you make a 90 degree angle between the keyboard and the display before taking out the screws. If you have less than a 90, you will never get it apart due to the upper display bracket shape. It has to be at the right angle or it won't come out.

    mastover - 返信

    I place it over keyboard side down hanging over a table. This way I know it's at 90 degrees and it also makes it easier to take it off.

    Nick - 返信

  15. Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.
    • Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

    As mentioned in the previous step, place it keyboard side down with the edge hanging over a table. This way it's at 90 degrees and it makes it easier to align and get the screws in.

    Josh - 返信

  16. In the following steps, you will use a heat gun to soften the adhesive securing the outer black border around the underside of the front glass panel to the display. The area the adhesive is applied  to is shown in red in the second picture. With the heat gun set to low, start by heating the outer black border near the upper right corner of the glass panel.
    • In the following steps, you will use a heat gun to soften the adhesive securing the outer black border around the underside of the front glass panel to the display. The area the adhesive is applied to is shown in red in the second picture.

    • With the heat gun set to low, start by heating the outer black border near the upper right corner of the glass panel.

    • Always aim the heat gun away from the soft rubber strip around the display glass. Heating the rubber will cause it to melt slightly, turning its finish from matte to glossy. Touching overheated rubber can cause it to permanently deform.

    • Due to the heat applied, it is normal for a layer of condensation to develop on the inside of the glass panel and/or the outside of the LCD. It can be removed with glass cleaner once the glass is separated from the display.

    Heating rubber strip it becomes glossy You can turn it to matte using ultrafine sandpaper (very ultrafine!!!) P2500

    Silvio - 返信

    Great piece of advice. Thank you!

    Brian -

    With a lot of heating, for me, it was very hard to get the glass to separate from the case. I had better luck starting from the bottom right as I could grip better onto the case. Three mistakes I made:

    1. Once I got the glass separated, I probably didn't heat sufficiently as I was going around and the glass broke. That made the rest of the procedure miserable. Lesson: pull very gently.

    2. I must have touched one of the tiny bits of glass that fell on the LCD and it scratched the actual screen. :-(. Lesson: vacuum the pieces as you go and be very careful when touching the LCD.

    3. I somehow overheated the LCD screen at the top left and right corners and now the display is all wonky and faded at the corners. Not sure what the lesson is here.

    Athanassios Diacakis - 返信

    First, if using a hair dryer, what setting should that be operated at? It would be much cooler than the heat gun, right?

    Second, the iFixit basic set comes with a small, clear suction cup. Would that be sufficient for this project, or does it require the stronger pull of the other cups?

    Finally, must I reapply adhesive to the case when replacing the glass? Does the original remain tacky and re-bond on assembly?

    contact - 返信

    It's been a while since you asked, but since no one answered and someone else may have the same questions:

    Hair dryers vary a lot, depending on wattage. I would start on low or med, and work my way up to high if necessary. I'd keep the fan on the lowest setting.

    The little suction cup is for removing screens like the iMac, which just uses magnets, and possibly an iPad or iPhone. I would not want to use that for this project, get something about 2" wide with a decent handle.

    The screen should have the double sided glue tape already applied, just remove the backing. I wouldn't get glass that doesn't have the tape on it, big waste of time with little savings in cost.

    Jeff Kamis

    maccentric -

    All I can say for this is don't be tempted to hold the heat gun too close. I ended up burning my LCD the first time I did it and having to replace that when all I was looking to do was replace the cable. I got the glass off holding it about 4/5 inches from the screen and being patient (it took about 5/10 minutes in the end).

    Nick - 返信

    The tape is very sticky and the glass is very fragile but at the same time fairly flexible.....I ended up breaking the glass ans it turned out to be a mess picking up the shards....but in the end a new glass is not too costly. the implication is that heating melts the glue but it is really just double stick tape.....there are some "youtube" videos that are worth a look but I would suggest using guitar picks and not a putty knife which creates a point load that breaks the glass....wear safety glasses!!

    brian62 - 返信

    Be ready to replace the glass (good thing mine was already broken, I ordered one). Wear surgery gloves and protective glasses. Trust your nose, if it smell melted plastic, it’s a good clue to stop the heat.

    Sebastien CHAPUIS - 返信

    It's more easy to do this step before removing the LCD. You have more control of the LCD and is more easy to remove the Glass.

    Felix - 返信

    If you have a glass cover that is severely cracked then the heating gun and suction cup procedure really doesn’t work. Suction cups won’t hold and the already broken glass doesn’t lift. Here’s what I did that made the job easier. Using 2 inch wide transparent packing tape I laid it along the perimeter of the display but not covering the rubber edge. Then I used a 1/4 inch wood carving tool and very carefully removed the glass and 2 sided tape around the metal border. Use as your guide picture 2 in this step that shows where the camera and cable is located. Where the camera is located in the top center the 2 sided tape isn’t located so you can easily lift the glass. The camera cable runs up the right side in a trough in the metal border so when lifting the tape and glass in this area just keep the sharp end flat and it is wide enough it won’t dip into the trough and damage the cable. The tape was very helpful because it kept the glass from splintering and going everywhere.

    joe lochner - 返信

    • With the panel sufficiently heated, fasten a heavy-duty suction cup near the upper right corner of the display glass.

    • Don't fasten the suction cup on top of the rubber strip around the edge of the display glass.

    • To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.

    • Slowly and gently pull the corner of the display glass up off the display assembly.

    • If only the top edge of the glass lifts up (as seen in the third picture), repeat steps one and two until you can lift up the corner of the panel.

  17. Gently lift the corner of the display glass enough to insert a spudger between it and the display assembly. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry up the adhesive securing the front glass to the display. Pry up the glass panel a few inches away from the upper right corner along the top and right edges of the display.
    • Gently lift the corner of the display glass enough to insert a spudger between it and the display assembly.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry up the adhesive securing the front glass to the display.

    • Pry up the glass panel a few inches away from the upper right corner along the top and right edges of the display.

  18. Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip along the right side of the front glass panel. Attach a suction cup along the right side of the front glass panel.
    • Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip along the right side of the front glass panel.

    • Attach a suction cup along the right side of the front glass panel.

    • Pull up on the glass panel while you use the flat end of a spudger to separate it from the rest of the display assembly.

    • Continue working along the right edge of the front display glass until it is separated from the display.

    • It may be helpful to use a guitar pick or another thin plastic object to keep the upper right corner of the front glass panel from sticking back down to the display assembly.

    I ended up breaking my glass panel due to using the spudger. I think if you use something more like a small putty knife you will do better. The spudger puts a lot of pressure in a small spot while the putty knife would put a little pressure over a larger area. Also, if you do break the glass, be sure to get ALL of the broken bits off before putting the new one on. Also, watch out for those broken bits as they tend to penetrate skin quite easily, and stay there for days!

    mastover - 返信

  19. Use your heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip along the top edge of the glass display panel. Attach a suction cup near the top edge of the glass display panel and use it to pull the glass panel up off the display.
    • Use your heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip along the top edge of the glass display panel.

    • Attach a suction cup near the top edge of the glass display panel and use it to pull the glass panel up off the display.

    • Work along the top edge of the glass panel, carefully using the flat end of a spudger to separate the adhesive if necessary.

  20. Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip near the upper left corner of the glass display panel. Attach a suction cup near the upper left corner of the glass display panel.
    • Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip near the upper left corner of the glass display panel.

    • Attach a suction cup near the upper left corner of the glass display panel.

    • Pull up on the suction cup and use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry the glass display panel out of the display assembly.

    • Once the upper left corner has been separated from the display, it may be helpful to use a guitar pick or another thin plastic object to keep the glass from sticking back down to the display assembly.

  21. Use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive under the black strip along the left side of the front glass panel. Attach a suction cup along the left side of the front glass panel.
    • Use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive under the black strip along the left side of the front glass panel.

    • Attach a suction cup along the left side of the front glass panel.

    • Pull up on the glass panel while you use the flat end of a spudger to separate it from the rest of the display assembly.

    • Continue working along the left edge of the front display glass until it is separated from the display.

  22. Now that the top, left, and right edges of the glass are free from the display, slowly lift the top edge of the glass panel and gently rotate it out of the display. If necessary, use the flat end of a spudger to free the bottom edge of the glass display panel from the display assembly.
    • Now that the top, left, and right edges of the glass are free from the display, slowly lift the top edge of the glass panel and gently rotate it out of the display.

    • If necessary, use the flat end of a spudger to free the bottom edge of the glass display panel from the display assembly.

    • Before reassembling, be sure to clean both the inside of the glass display panel and the LCD as any dust or fingerprints trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the machine is on.

  23. Skip this step if you're reusing the original glass. Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool between the display glass and the camera bracket, and run it around the camera bracket to separate it from the display glass.
    • Skip this step if you're reusing the original glass.

    • Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool between the display glass and the camera bracket, and run it around the camera bracket to separate it from the display glass.

    • Do not forget to stick the camera bracket down to the new front display glass before reassembly.

  24. During the glass removal process, the camera cable may stick to the adhesive on the glass panel, disconnecting it from the camera board as the panel is lifted. If your camera cable is still connected to the camera board, skip this step. To reconnect the cable, first use the tip of a spudger to remove the piece of foam tape over the camera cable ZIF socket. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the ZIF cable retainer on the camera cable socket.
    • During the glass removal process, the camera cable may stick to the adhesive on the glass panel, disconnecting it from the camera board as the panel is lifted. If your camera cable is still connected to the camera board, skip this step.

    • To reconnect the cable, first use the tip of a spudger to remove the piece of foam tape over the camera cable ZIF socket.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the ZIF cable retainer on the camera cable socket.

    • Insert the camera cable into its socket on the camera board and use the tip of a spudger to snap down the ZIF cable retainer, locking the cable in place.

    • Reapply the piece of tape covering the camera cable socket.

  25. Slide the clutch cover toward the right edge of the display. The clutch cover will move approximately .25" and stop. Do not force it too far to the right.
    • Slide the clutch cover toward the right edge of the display.

    • The clutch cover will move approximately .25" and stop. Do not force it too far to the right.

    • When reinstalling the clutch cover, be sure to slip it over the components protruding from the lower edge of the display about .25" to the right of its final installed position on the display.

    The plastic tabs of the clutch fit into slots that end up holding the clutch in place. The idea is that you need to slide the clutch to the right to free the plastic tabs from the metal slots in the LCD frame.....then you can separate the clutch from the frame.

    brian62 - 返信

  26. Starting at its far right end, rock the clutch cover along its long axis while pulling it away from the clutch hinge. Working from right to left, carefully continue to release and lift the clutch along the lower edge of the display assembly. Lift the clutch cover up off the front bezel and set it aside.
    • Starting at its far right end, rock the clutch cover along its long axis while pulling it away from the clutch hinge.

    • Working from right to left, carefully continue to release and lift the clutch along the lower edge of the display assembly.

    • Lift the clutch cover up off the front bezel and set it aside.

    • When reinstalling the clutch cover, be sure to widen the opening when slipping it over the small black plastic cosmetic cover that fills the open end of the clutch cover when it is in place. The cosmetic cover has very thin and delicate plastic arms that hold it to the right clutch hinge.

    Highly recommended to remove clutch cover BEFORE heating up glass, because cover is made of very thin plastic and it'll be deformed!

    Basically, I'm removing everything from screen - clutch cover, wifi card, antenna, all plastic bits, and only then proceed with heating and glass removal.

    DigiHead - 返信

    Starting at it's far LEFT end

    Job - 返信

    just slide the plastic cover to the right and it comes right off.

    William - 返信

  27. De-route the display data cable from its retaining bracket near the lower left edge of the display.
    • De-route the display data cable from its retaining bracket near the lower left edge of the display.

  28. Remove the following six screws securing the LCD panel to the front bezel:
    • Remove the following six screws securing the LCD panel to the front bezel:

    • Four 3.25 mm Phillips with large heads.

    • Two 3.2 mm Phillips with small heads.

  29. Do not try to remove the LCD yet. The circuitry along its lower edge is wedged in a gap along the lower edge of the display recess in the aluminum display assembly.
    • Do not try to remove the LCD yet. The circuitry along its lower edge is wedged in a gap along the lower edge of the display recess in the aluminum display assembly.

    • Hold the display vertically and tip it enough to grab the top edge of the LCD and rotate it slightly out of the display assembly, being careful not to break the circuitry off its lower edge.

  30. Pull the LCD toward the top edge of the display to slide the circuitry along its lower edge out of the recess in the aluminum display assembly.
    • Pull the LCD toward the top edge of the display to slide the circuitry along its lower edge out of the recess in the aluminum display assembly.

    • It may be helpful to use one hand to feed the display data cable through its channel in the aluminum display assembly as you pull the LCD toward the top edge of the display with the other hand.

  31. Peel the piece of tape covering the display data cable connector away from the edge closest to the LCD.
    • Peel the piece of tape covering the display data cable connector away from the edge closest to the LCD.

  32. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the thin steel retaining clip securing the display data cable to its socket on the LCD. Pull the display data cable straight away from its socket on the LCD.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the thin steel retaining clip securing the display data cable to its socket on the LCD.

    • Pull the display data cable straight away from its socket on the LCD.

    • Lift the LCD out of the display assembly and set it aside.

終わりに

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

71 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

Walter Galan

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4 件のコメント

All I can say is THANKS! I was able to replace my daughters display, the bottom aluminum panel and to remove the dents from the top aluminum panel. Without your guide, I doubt I ever could have done this. You saved me hundreds! Your spudger tool was worth its weight in gold....till I used it to break the glass front panel...sigh. Still, I'll use that hundreds of times from now on.

mastover - 返信

==Step 17==

It is extremely critical that when attaching the suction cup to FIRST LIFT THE LEVER ABOUT HALF WAY before attaching to the glass in order to only apply about half the suction the tool is capable of applying!! Lift the lever half way. Set into position on glass. Lift the rest of the way to apply about half of the suction cup's potential suction. Failure to do this WILL result in circular break around the suction cup!

jnserr - 返信

This was extremely helpful. I am a junior in high school who was issued a Mac for class. I am one of those anti-Apple people, so I get easily frustrated with them and tend to beat them up a bit. Consequently, I broke it. Being low on funds, I couldn't afford the repair costs, let alone had the nerve to own up to my actions and tell the teacher about it. SO....after staying up an extra couple hours researching the problem, I discovered this and decided to give it a try. Despite already being somewhat tech savvy, I found this resource very helpful, even more so after re-reading it and watching a couple how-to videos. The problem was fixed in no time.

Lets just say, thanks to this site, the school never found out that I broke the laptop. :)

Alexander - 返信

GREAT GUIDE! Thanks!

I had a laser targeted infrared thermometer for another project ($25 at local hardware store) and found the screen cover adhesive softened nicely at top and sides at 140-145F. I used a hairdryer on high setting.

I found with the top edge and both side edges lifted free of the adhesive in earlier stages, the bottom edge lifted easily at 100-105F. (I had package taped the screen as it had cracks, being sure the tape laid flat so sunction would form in the early steps.

NOTE THE MAXIMUM SPECiIFIED NONOPERATING TEMPERATURE IS LISTED BY APPLE AT 113F for the 2010 MBP 13”. Separating the bottom and top cases allows the keyboard and all the other goodies in the lower case to rest comfortably away from the heat.

One or two very thin flexible pry tools like iSesame (inexpensive online) worked well once the upper corner was lifted with a suction cup

Stan Wingate - 返信

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