はじめに

このガイドを使ってLCDを交換します。

  1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibodyに留められた底ケースから次のネジを10本外します。
    • MacBook Pro 13" Unibodyに留められた底ケースから次のネジを10本外します。

      • 3 mmプラスネジー7本

      • 13.5 mmプラスネジー3本

    It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.

    scott523 - 返信

    The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!

    iphonetechtips -

    A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to "cam out" (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point--not the lousy fake "precision" screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake "precision" screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_sc...: "Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as "Phillips #00" or "Torx T5." These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a "Size 8" dress."

    In other words, the quality of many "precision" screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake "precision" Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a "precision screwdriver", it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    One of the best manufacturers of precision screwdrivers is Wiha (http://www.wihatools.com/tech-tools/prec... cost more, but they're worth it. Or buy screwdrivers from iFixit, who seem to be selling JIS screwdrivers.

    Another article with some good info on screw and screwdriver types:

    http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-P...

    Also keep in mind that some screws are tougher to remove and reinstall because they have a thread-locking compound on them, which is usually blue.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Phillips #00 is the correct screwdriver for the lower case. Maybe the one you have is worn or badly made.

    David Fear -

    Perfect man!Many thanks!:)

    wertaerte - 返信

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    twisk - 返信

    thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.

    BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.

    xitxit2 -

    i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big

    plins718 - 返信

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover - 返信

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone: http://www.visibone.com/colorblind/

    Eric Sorenson - 返信

    Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.

    danzeitlin -

    I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.

    jonathanmorgan - 返信

    I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.

    john - 返信

    Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?

    Igor - 返信

    The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.

    Some info here:

    http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...

    "1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"

    "*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."

    Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.

    Winston -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh - 返信

    I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.

    tarriojuan - 返信

    Had no idea they were so expensive.

    Franklin - 返信

    Phillips #00 is the right tool for all the steps (Except the 4 HD T6 screws). Maybe there is dirt in the notch.

    Luis Soto - 返信

    There is any chance to use the Toshiba MQ01ABD 1 TB 2.5" Internal Hard Drive MQ01ABD100 , it has7200 rpm , shuold it work?

    Luis - 返信

    If you are running OS X 10.11.2 or newer, battery provided by iFixIt will not work. I've already tried 2 batteries from iFixIt and neither worked. iFixIt needs to come clean on this unfortunate situation. I've already put 8 hours into this futile effort when it should have taken me 45 minutes.

    gkofga - 返信

    What was your solution? I'm using 10.11.3 OS X. I may need a battery replacement very soon too.

    John Doe -

    <i>The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.</I>

    I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are <b>NOT</b> the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the "Give the author +30 points" button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore. My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together. :-)

    THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added.

    Joseph King - 返信

    It would be nice to remind fixers which length screws go back in which holes, in case they get mixed up...

    Mike - 返信

    Wonderful guide

    Freda - 返信

  2. 取付台タブを外すため、底ケースをわずかに持ち上げて、デバイス本体の背中側に向けて押します。
    • 取付台タブを外すため、底ケースをわずかに持ち上げて、デバイス本体の背中側に向けて押します。

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike - 返信

    • 作業前の注意点として、放電を防ぐためロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外してください。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターを持ち上げます。

    why is step 3 necessary?

    gansodesoya - 返信

    Quote from gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane - 返信

    Citation de gansodesoya :

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.

    amiller770 - 返信

    I'm thinking of ordering the spudger. I was thinking of order the heavy duty spudger... or should I just order the normal. Will either of the spudgers work for this DIY?

    shockaaa - 返信

    Once you have a set of spudgers, you will wonder how you ever went without them. :-)

    Brian -

    $@$@. Don't use an non-isolated screwdriver for this. I just shorted-out my battery :(

    Lukas Besch - 返信

    You are absolutely right, never use a screwdriver on the logic board or any connector! Delicate use of fingernails or a credit card will get you through most situations if you lack a spudger.

    Logan Bean -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung - 返信

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    Would it not be advisable to drain the battery completely before attempting to repair, if you want to be sure you don't get a spark when removing the battery connector?

    Berlugana

    bduault - 返信

    Disconnecting the battery connector is not that different from simply unplugging a battery from an older model MacBook with a removable battery. You're not trying to protect yourself from a "spark", but the internal circuitry when taking the MacBook apart.

    amiller770 -

    I neglected step 3 and now my computer won't turn on. Could I have shorted out my logic board?

    Plamen - 返信

    I had the same problem , my macbook doesn't switch on working

    marioluiggi -

    A very easy and fast update indeed! Using this guide and the tools indicated on top I replaced the two RAM cards (2GB each) with two 8GB RAM cards from OWC for a total of 16GB RAM in my MBP Middle 2010 Core 2 Duo (Officially not supported according to Apple).

    .

    Make sure you select RAM with these specs: 16GB DDR3 PC8500 1066MHz Kit (8GBx2)

    .

    Apps open much faster and I can run a virtual machine at a decent speed.

    Luis Soto - 返信

    Removing the battery is not required, but in some instances can make installing ram much easier. If you plan on upgrading from 4GB (2X 2GB) to 8GB (2X 4GB) Removing the battery would be better. There are two levels of ram. If you are replacing both levels, then remove the battery. If you are just replacing the top, dont bother. Removing the battery for very long or even at all (depending on the CMOS battery age and health) could possibly reset settings, the clock, saved wifi passwords, and more.

    Everett Whiteman - 返信

    It is beneficial to remove the battery at this stage.

    Knox Karima - 返信

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond - 返信

    Guys I just used my index finger nail. It’s the most useful nail to let grow a little bit for this type of procedure. Came off pretty easy when using both my right hand index and left hand index together to lift the plug up out. Found some plastic folded it and place it right over the socket so the plug would go back in and now the plug holds the plastic in place so I can focus on the main work.

    clsmithj - 返信

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、サブウーファー/右側スピーカーのケーブルコネクタを基板上のソケットから引き抜きます。

    • ワイヤの下から引き上げます。

    Mine had a small piece of insulating material on top of the connector. By removing that first, I could then pry up the connector with less stress on the cable.

    istlota - 返信

    Great tip! Thanks.

    juliet - 返信

    • カメラケーブルのオス側の先端を引っ張って、カメラケーブルの接続を外します。

    • コネクタを基板の表面と並行に、光学ドライブ側に引っ張ってください。ソケットからまっすぐ上向きに引っ張らないでください。

    コメントを追加する

    • カメラのデータケーブルを光学ドライブのチャンネルから巻き戻します。

    コメントを追加する

    • 次のネジを外します。

      • 10 mmプラスネジー2本

      • 3.8 mmプラスネジー1本

    • サブウーファーの下からカメラケーブルのブラケットをスライドして、デバイス本体から取り出します。

    コメントを追加する

    • ディスプレイデータケーブルのロックに固定されているプラスチックのプルタブを掴んで、デバイスのDC-In サイドに向けて回転させます。

    • ディスプレイデータケーブルのコネクタをソケットからまっすぐ引っ張ります。

    • コネクタをまっすぐ引っ張り、裏返します。上向きに引っ張らないでください。

    コメントを追加する

    • 上部ケースにディスプレイデータケーブルのブラケットを固定している次の2本のネジを外します。

      • 8.6 mm プラスネジー1本

      • 5.6 mmプラスネジー1本

    • ディスプレイデータケーブルのブラケットを上部ケースから持ち上げます。

    コメントを追加する

    • もしお持ちのデバイスに付いていれば、ディスプレイデータケーブル付近のディスプレイ用ネジに留められたフォーム製テープの一片を剥がします。

    コメントを追加する

    • 上部ケースに2つのディスプレイブラケットを固定している、外側の6.5 mm T8トルクスネジを2本外します。

    コメントを追加する

    • MacBookを開口します。それからディスプレイを垂直に立てます。

    • 画像のように開口したMacBookをテーブル上に配置します。

    • 左手でディスプレイと上部ケースを固定しながら、下部のディスプレイブラケットから残りの6.5 mm T8トルクスネジを外します。

    コメントを追加する

    • 左手で必ずディスプレイと上部ケース両方を押さえてください。ディスプレイと上部ケースが外れてしまうと落下の原因となり、各コンポーネントに致命的なダメージを与えてしまいます。

    • 上部ケースとディスプレイを固定している最後のT8トルクスネジを外します。

    When reassembling, Careful not to drop your screw, or it may get stuck to the (magnetic) power adapter port. Oops!

    Save yourself some time and don't drop it!

    rowdyferret - 返信

    • 上部ケースを右手で掴んで、ディスプレイの上部に向けて若干回転させます。すると上部ディスプレイブラケットが上部ケースの先端から外れます。

    • ディスプレイを上部ケースからわずかに外します。

    Make sure you make a 90 degree angle between the keyboard and the display before taking out the screws. If you have less than a 90, you will never get it apart due to the upper display bracket shape. It has to be at the right angle or it won't come out.

    mastover - 返信

    I place it over keyboard side down hanging over a table. This way I know it's at 90 degrees and it also makes it easier to take it off.

    Nick - 返信

    • ディスプレイを上部ケースから持ち上げて外します。ブラケットやケーブルが絡まないようにご注意ください。

    コメントを追加する

    • 次の手順では、外側の黒いボーターに留められている圧着剤を温めて、柔らかくしてください。圧着剤が付けれている範囲は2番目の画像で赤く囲まれています。

    • ヒートガンの温度を低温にして、ガラスパネルの上側右端付近の黒いボーダーに熱を当てます。

    • 常にディスプレイガラス周辺の柔らかいゴム製ストリップから離してください。ゴムを温めてしまうと若干溶けてしまいます。ゴムの仕上がりが今あるマット感から光沢感へと変わってしまいます。過熱されたゴムに触ってしまうと永久に変形してしまいます。

    • 熱が当てられているため、ガラスパネル内側や/または、LCDの外側に水滴が発生することがあります。ディスプレイからガラスを取り出した際に、ガラスクリーナーで水滴を拭き取ってください。

    Heating rubber strip it becomes glossy You can turn it to matte using ultrafine sandpaper (very ultrafine!!!) P2500

    Silvio - 返信

    Great piece of advice. Thank you!

    Brian -

    With a lot of heating, for me, it was very hard to get the glass to separate from the case. I had better luck starting from the bottom right as I could grip better onto the case. Three mistakes I made:

    1. Once I got the glass separated, I probably didn't heat sufficiently as I was going around and the glass broke. That made the rest of the procedure miserable. Lesson: pull very gently.

    2. I must have touched one of the tiny bits of glass that fell on the LCD and it scratched the actual screen. :-(. Lesson: vacuum the pieces as you go and be very careful when touching the LCD.

    3. I somehow overheated the LCD screen at the top left and right corners and now the display is all wonky and faded at the corners. Not sure what the lesson is here.

    Athanassios Diacakis - 返信

    First, if using a hair dryer, what setting should that be operated at? It would be much cooler than the heat gun, right?

    Second, the iFixit basic set comes with a small, clear suction cup. Would that be sufficient for this project, or does it require the stronger pull of the other cups?

    Finally, must I reapply adhesive to the case when replacing the glass? Does the original remain tacky and re-bond on assembly?

    contact - 返信

    It's been a while since you asked, but since no one answered and someone else may have the same questions:

    Hair dryers vary a lot, depending on wattage. I would start on low or med, and work my way up to high if necessary. I'd keep the fan on the lowest setting.

    The little suction cup is for removing screens like the iMac, which just uses magnets, and possibly an iPad or iPhone. I would not want to use that for this project, get something about 2" wide with a decent handle.

    The screen should have the double sided glue tape already applied, just remove the backing. I wouldn't get glass that doesn't have the tape on it, big waste of time with little savings in cost.

    Jeff Kamis

    maccentric -

    ****EASIEST WAY TO REMOVE GLASS**** Instead of using this large heat gun, I used an Ancor Marine Grade Mirco Thermal Heat Gun (Ancor 702027) I picked up at West Marine. The tip is the exact width of the black trim and really concentrates the heat to the tape without heating outter rubber trim. No lie....I followed the heat gun all the way around the edge with a tiny pry tool and the glass was off in 5 min!!

    LKFitzgerald1 - 返信

    what temperature did u have it set at? I have a digital rework station i want to use.

    Bradley -

    All I can say for this is don't be tempted to hold the heat gun too close. I ended up burning my LCD the first time I did it and having to replace that when all I was looking to do was replace the cable. I got the glass off holding it about 4/5 inches from the screen and being patient (it took about 5/10 minutes in the end).

    Nick - 返信

    The tape is very sticky and the glass is very fragile but at the same time fairly flexible.....I ended up breaking the glass ans it turned out to be a mess picking up the shards....but in the end a new glass is not too costly. the implication is that heating melts the glue but it is really just double stick tape.....there are some "youtube" videos that are worth a look but I would suggest using guitar picks and not a putty knife which creates a point load that breaks the glass....wear safety glasses!!

    brian62 - 返信

    • パネルが十分に温まったら、高荷重用の吸盤カップをディスプレイガラスの上部右側端に装着します。

    • ディスプレイガラスの端に付けられているゴム製ストリップの上に吸盤カップを装着しないでください。

    • iFixit製の吸盤カップを装着するには、まず吸盤カップを定位置に置いて可動式ハンドルをガラスパネルを平行にして開いた状態にします。吸盤カップがガラス上に軽く固定されたら可動式ハンドルを持ち上げて双方が平行になるまでまっすぐ立てます。

    • ディスプレイアセンブリからディスプレイガラスをゆっくりと丁寧に引き上げます。

    • ガラスの上部端を持ち上げたら(3番目の画像を参照)、パネルの端が持ち上がるまでこの手順を1–2回繰り返してください。

    コメントを追加する

    • ディスプレイガラスの端を持ち上げて、ディスプレイアセンブリとの間に作られた隙間にスパッジャーの先端を差し込みます。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ディスプレイにフロントガラスを固定している圧着剤を丁寧にこじ開けます。

    • ディスプレイの上部と右端のコーナーに沿ってスパッジャーをスライドし、右側上部からわずかにガラスパネルを引き上げます。

    コメントを追加する

    • ヒートガンを使ってフロントガラスパネルの右側に沿って黒いストリップの下に付けれられた圧着剤を温めて柔らかくします。

    • 吸盤カップをフロントガラスパネルの右側に沿って装着します。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ディスプレイアセンブリの残りからガラスパネルを引き離しながら、ガラスパネルを引き上げます。

    • ディスプレイから外れるまで、引き続きフロントディスプレイガラスの右側端に沿ってスパッジャーをスライドします。

    • ギターのピックやその他薄いプラスチック製のシート状のものを上部右側コーナーに差し込むと、フロントガラスパネルがディスプレイアセンブリに再装着しないように保護してくれます。

    I ended up breaking my glass panel due to using the spudger. I think if you use something more like a small putty knife you will do better. The spudger puts a lot of pressure in a small spot while the putty knife would put a little pressure over a larger area. Also, if you do break the glass, be sure to get ALL of the broken bits off before putting the new one on. Also, watch out for those broken bits as they tend to penetrate skin quite easily, and stay there for days!

    mastover - 返信

    • ヒートガンを使って、ガラスのディスプレイパネル上部端の黒いストリップ下に留められた圧着剤を温めて柔らかくします。

    • ガラスのディスプレイパネルの上部端付近に吸盤カップを装着してディスプレイからガラスパネルを引き上げます。

    • ガラスパネルの上部端に沿って作業を進めて、スパッジャーの平面側先端を使いながら必要に応じて圧着剤を剥がします。

    コメントを追加する

    • ディスプレイパネルの上部左側コーナー付近の黒いストリップ下に留められた圧着剤を柔らかくするため、ヒートガンを使います。

    • ディスプレイパネルの上部左側コーナー付近に吸盤カップを装着します。

    • 吸盤カップを引き上げて、スパッジャーの平面側先端をガラスディスプレイパネルに差し込み、ディスプレイアセンブリから丁寧にこじ開けます。

    • 上部左側コーナーがディスプレイから外れたら、ギターピックや他の薄いプラスチック製シートを挟んでディスプレイアセンブリにガラスが再装着するのを防ぎます。

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    • ヒートガンやヘアドライヤーを使って、正面ガラスパネルの左側に沿って黒いストリップ下に付けられた圧着剤を温めて柔らかくします。

    • 正面ガラスパネルの左側に沿って吸盤カップを装着します。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使ってディスプレイの残りからガラスを外すためにこじ開けている間、ガラスパネルを引っ張り続けます。

    • ディスプレイからガラスが外れるまで、フロントディスプレイガラスの左側端に沿ってスパッジャーを動かしながら作業を続けます。

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    • ここで上部、左、右側のガラスがディスプレイから外れました。ゆっくりとガラスパネルの上部端を丁寧に持ち上げてディスプレイを外側に外します。

    • 必要に応じてスパッジャーの平面側先端を使い、ディスプレイアセンブリからガラスディスプレイパネルの底側端を外してください。

    • 再組み立ての前に、ガラスディスプレイパネルとLCDの内側を綺麗に拭き取ってください。内部に残された指紋や埃はデバイスの稼働中、視界を遮ることがあります。

    How do you clean the LCD without damaging it? I have some glass dust and other things including a fingerprint resting on the screen, though I have yet to damage the LCD and would like to keep it that way.

    Erin - 返信

    • 工場出荷時のオリジナルのガラスを再利用される場合はこの手順をスキップしてください。

    • プラスチック製開口ツールの先端をディスプレイガラスとカメラブラケットの間に差し込み、ディスプレイガラスから剥がすためにカメラブラケットの周辺でこじ開けます。

    • 再組み立ての前に、交換用フロントディスプレイガラスにカメラブラケットを装着したか確認してください。

    I had issues getting the panel back on till I got rid of the little camera bracket. I just made sure the glass aligned properly then removed the bracket. The bracket didn't stick worth beans anyway.

    mastover - 返信

    • ガラスの交換作業中、カメラケーブルがガラスパネル上の圧着剤に付着することがあります。パネルを持ち上げてカメラボードからカメラケーブルの接続を外してください。それでもカメラケーブルがカメラボードに付着している場合は、この手順をスキップしてください。

    • ケーブルを再接続するには、まずスパッジャーの先端んを使ってカメラケーブルのZIFソケットを覆っているフォーム製テープの一部を取り出します。

    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、カメラケーブルソケット上のZIFケーブルリテイナーを取り出します。

    • カメラケーブルをカメラボード上のソケットに装着し、スパッジャーの先端を使って、カメラケーブルをロックして固定し、ZIFケーブルリテイナーを上から押して締めます。

    • カメラケーブルソケットをカバーするテープを再度取り付けてください。

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    • ディスプレイの右側端に向けてクラッチカバーをスライドします。

    • クラッチカバーは約0.6cm動いて止まります。右側に無理やり動かさないでください。

    • クラッチカバーを再装着する際は、ディスプレイ下側の端からディスプレイの最後に取り付けた位置の右側に向けて、突出したコンポーネントの上にスライドします。

    The plastic tabs of the clutch fit into slots that end up holding the clutch in place. The idea is that you need to slide the clutch to the right to free the plastic tabs from the metal slots in the LCD frame.....then you can separate the clutch from the frame.

    brian62 - 返信

    • 一番右端からクラッチカバーを長辺に沿って揺動させながらクラッチヒンジから引き離します。

    • 右から左に作業し、ディスプレイアセンブリの下端に沿ってクラッチを慎重に離して持ち上げます。

    • クラッチカバーを正面のベゼルから持ち上げて、傍に置きます。

    • クラッチカバーを再び取り付けるときは、クラッチカバーが開いているときに開口部を大きく広げてください。小さな黒いプラスチック製のコスメカバーの上に滑り込ませます。コスメカバーは非常に薄くて繊細で、右側のクラッチヒンジに付けられています。

    Highly recommended to remove clutch cover BEFORE heating up glass, because cover is made of very thin plastic and it'll be deformed!

    Basically, I'm removing everything from screen - clutch cover, wifi card, antenna, all plastic bits, and only then proceed with heating and glass removal.

    DigiHead - 返信

    Starting at it's far LEFT end

    Job - 返信

    just slide the plastic cover to the right and it comes right off.

    William - 返信

    • ディスプレイデータケーブルを、ディスプレイ下側端付近の固定ブラケットから巻き戻します。

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    • LCDパネルをフロントベゼルに固定している次の6本のネジを外します。

      • 3.25 mmなべ大ネジー4本

      • 3.2 mmなべ小ネジー2本

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    • LCDを完全に取り出さないでください。ディスプレイ下側端に沿った回路は、アルミ製ディスプレイアセンブリ内のディスプレイ凹みの下側端に沿った隙間にくさび形にされている。

    • ディスプレイを垂直に持ち、LCD上端を摘み、ディスプレイ下端から回路が破損しないように注意しながらディスプレイアセンブリから少し回転させます。

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    • アルミ製のディスプレイアセンブリの凹部からディスプレイの下側端に沿ってスライドし、LCDをディスプレイの上端に向けて引っ張ります。

    • 片方の手でディスプレイの上部端に向けてLCDを引っ張る際に、もう一方の手でディスプレイの上端に向かってLCDを引っ張ると、アルミ製のディスプレイアセンブリのチャンネルを通してディスプレイデータケーブルを取り付け安くて便利です。

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    • ディスプレイデータケーブルコネクタを覆っているテープをLCDに一番近い端から剥がします。

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    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ディスプレイデータケーブルをLCD上のソケットに固定している薄いスチール製固定クリップを裏返します。

    • LCD上のソケットからディスプレイデータケーブルをまっすぐ引っ張ります。

    • LCDをディスプレイアセンブリから持ち上げて、脇に置きます。

    Has anyone had compatibility issues with the LVDS cable not being compatible with certain displays? I am trying to replace an LG LP133WX3 with an AU B133EW04 and it seems the cable connectors are different and not compatible.

    brdnboy - 返信

    how do you reattach the glass since it was held by adhesive?

    Mike - 返信

    I'm doing this tonight and I imagine it's simply reheating the adhesive to get it tacky again and then pressing it into place. At least I hope!

    Brian -

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

65 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

100%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! 貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Walter Galan

568,674 ポイント

1,203のガイドは作成済み

What about using a low-temp oven instead of a heat gun (or is using a heat gun easy enough)?

What would be too hot? Would 70˚ C be too hot (60˚, 50˚)?

I also see that it says "forget to stick the camera bracket down to the NEW FRONT DISPLAY GLASS before reassembly." Do people that do this repair ever reuse the old glass that they just removed with the heat-gun with success?

Ilya Kavalerov - 返信

does the adhesive hold on to the reattached glass after the repair? do we need double-sided tape to hold ?

omkar - 返信

All I can say is THANKS! I was able to replace my daughters display, the bottom aluminum panel and to remove the dents from the top aluminum panel. Without your guide, I doubt I ever could have done this. You saved me hundreds! Your spudger tool was worth its weight in gold....till I used it to break the glass front panel...sigh. Still, I'll use that hundreds of times from now on.

mastover - 返信

==Step 17==

It is extremely critical that when attaching the suction cup to FIRST LIFT THE LEVER ABOUT HALF WAY before attaching to the glass in order to only apply about half the suction the tool is capable of applying!! Lift the lever half way. Set into position on glass. Lift the rest of the way to apply about half of the suction cup's potential suction. Failure to do this WILL result in circular break around the suction cup!

jnserr - 返信

This was extremely helpful. I am a junior in high school who was issued a Mac for class. I am one of those anti-Apple people, so I get easily frustrated with them and tend to beat them up a bit. Consequently, I broke it. Being low on funds, I couldn't afford the repair costs, let alone had the nerve to own up to my actions and tell the teacher about it. SO....after staying up an extra couple hours researching the problem, I discovered this and decided to give it a try. Despite already being somewhat tech savvy, I found this resource very helpful, even more so after re-reading it and watching a couple how-to videos. The problem was fixed in no time.

Lets just say, thanks to this site, the school never found out that I broke the laptop. :)

Alexander - 返信

hello alexander i just replaced my screen with a new one but its black screen dosent show anything any thips?

carlos -

i just installed new screen and i get black screen on my macbook and when connected to tv also blackscreen but when i disconect the lcd it works fine on the tv any tips

carlos - 返信

I completed this using parts and tools from amazon and some tools from ifixit. I definitely recommend buying the glass as well as the lcd. The glass is only ~20$ off of amazon and will come with adhesive. You would need to use your own adhesive if you were to use the old glass. My only issue was that I pushed in the display cable a little too hard and loosed the input, so I had to use some electric tape to steady everything at the end.

I recommend watching this video for an additional perspective: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKsPUiin... . A main suggestion would be to test the LCD screen prior to putting everything back together as seen in that video. This repair saved me a ton of money and wasn't particularly hard, though it was time consuming.

Best of luck.

navidashari - 返信

First, GREAT article. How do I replace a, ‘display data cable connector,’ once it has been removed? I don’t see any articles on this. I can best be reached at Robert.Francis.Schmidt@gmail.com on this one.

Thank you in advance!

Rob Schmidt

Robert Schmidt - 返信

First, GREAT article. Having said that how do I replace the, ‘Display data cable connector,’ once it has been removed? The best way to reach me on this one is, Robert.Francis.Schmidt@gmail.com. You have allot of GREAT material regarding Mid 2010 13” Macbook Pro laptops, but I don’t see anything regarding JUST the display data cable connector.

Thank you ahead of time.

Sincerely,

Rob Schmidt

Robert Schmidt - 返信

GREAT GUIDE! Thanks!

I had a laser targeted infrared thermometer for another project ($25 at local hardware store) and found the screen cover adhesive softened nicely at top and sides at 140-145F. I used a hairdryer on high setting.

I found with the top edge and both side edges lifted free of the adhesive in earlier stages, the bottom edge lifted easily at 100-105F. (I had package taped the screen as it had cracks, being sure the tape laid flat so sunction would form in the early steps.

NOTE THE MAXIMUM SPECiIFIED NONOPERATING TEMPERATURE IS LISTED BY APPLE AT 113F for the 2010 MBP 13”. Separating the bottom and top cases allows the keyboard and all the other goodies in the lower case to rest comfortably away from the heat.

One or two very thin flexible pry tools like iSesame (inexpensive online) worked well once the upper corner was lifted with a suction cup

Stan Wingate - 返信

What is the exact model of this LCD and what interface does it have?

juan andrés gimeno crespo - 返信

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