はじめに

このガイドを使って、ディスプレイアセンブリ全体を交換します。

MacBook Pro 13" Unibodyに留められた底ケースから次のネジを10本外します。
  • MacBook Pro 13" Unibodyに留められた底ケースから次のネジを10本外します。

    • 3 mmプラスネジー7本

    • 13.5 mmプラスネジー3本

It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.

scott523 - 返信

The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!

iphonetechtips -

A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to "cam out" (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point--not the lousy fake "precision" screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more.

johnsawyercjs -

Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake "precision" screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_sc...: "Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as "Phillips #00" or "Torx T5." These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a "Size 8" dress."

In other words, the quality of many "precision" screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake "precision" Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a "precision screwdriver", it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more.

johnsawyercjs -

One of the best manufacturers of precision screwdrivers is Wiha (http://www.wihatools.com/tech-tools/prec... cost more, but they're worth it. Or buy screwdrivers from iFixit, who seem to be selling JIS screwdrivers.

Another article with some good info on screw and screwdriver types:

http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-P...

Also keep in mind that some screws are tougher to remove and reinstall because they have a thread-locking compound on them, which is usually blue.

johnsawyercjs -

Phillips #00 is the correct screwdriver for the lower case. Maybe the one you have is worn or badly made.

David Fear -

Perfect man!Many thanks!:)

wertaerte - 返信

Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

twisk - 返信

thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.

BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.

xitxit2 -

i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big

plins718 - 返信

Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

mastover - 返信

I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

adlerpe -

That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

joyitsjennie -

Great idea and one I use often

Thomas Overstreet -

Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

Laura Sharkey -

The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone: http://www.visibone.com/colorblind/

Eric Sorenson - 返信

Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.

danzeitlin -

I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.

jonathanmorgan - 返信

I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.

john - 返信

Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?

Igor - 返信

The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.

Some info here:

http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...

"1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"

"*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."

Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.

Winston -

I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

valentinedhdh - 返信

I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.

tarriojuan - 返信

Had no idea they were so expensive.

Franklin - 返信

Phillips #00 is the right tool for all the steps (Except the 4 HD T6 screws). Maybe there is dirt in the notch.

Luis Soto - 返信

There is any chance to use the Toshiba MQ01ABD 1 TB 2.5" Internal Hard Drive MQ01ABD100 , it has7200 rpm , shuold it work?

Luis - 返信

If you are running OS X 10.11.2 or newer, battery provided by iFixIt will not work. I've already tried 2 batteries from iFixIt and neither worked. iFixIt needs to come clean on this unfortunate situation. I've already put 8 hours into this futile effort when it should have taken me 45 minutes.

gkofga - 返信

What was your solution? I'm using 10.11.3 OS X. I may need a battery replacement very soon too.

John Doe -

<i>The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.</I>

I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are <b>NOT</b> the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the "Give the author +30 points" button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore. My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together. :-)

THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added.

Joseph King - 返信

It would be nice to remind fixers which length screws go back in which holes, in case they get mixed up...

Mike - 返信

取付台タブを外すため、底ケースをわずかに持ち上げて、デバイス本体の背中側に向けて押します。
  • 取付台タブを外すため、底ケースをわずかに持ち上げて、デバイス本体の背中側に向けて押します。

In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

Mike - 返信

  • 作業前の注意点として、放電を防ぐためロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外してください。

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターを持ち上げます。

why is step 3 necessary?

gansodesoya - 返信

Quote from gansodesoya:

why is step 3 necessary?

Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

MrKane - 返信

Quote from gansodesoya:

why is step 3 necessary?

Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.

amiller770 - 返信

I'm thinking of ordering the spudger. I was thinking of order the heavy duty spudger... or should I just order the normal. Will either of the spudgers work for this DIY?

shockaaa - 返信

Once you have a set of spudgers, you will wonder how you ever went without them. :-)

Brian -

$@$@. Don't use an non-isolated screwdriver for this. I just shorted-out my battery :(

Lukas Besch - 返信

You are absolutely right, never use a screwdriver on the logic board or any connector! Delicate use of fingernails or a credit card will get you through most situations if you lack a spudger.

Logan Bean -

How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

Horace Chung - 返信

yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

maccentric -

Would it not be advisable to drain the battery completely before attempting to repair, if you want to be sure you don't get a spark when removing the battery connector?

Berlugana

bduault - 返信

Disconnecting the battery connector is not that different from simply unplugging a battery from an older model MacBook with a removable battery. You're not trying to protect yourself from a "spark", but the internal circuitry when taking the MacBook apart.

amiller770 -

I neglected step 3 and now my computer won't turn on. Could I have shorted out my logic board?

Plamen - 返信

I had the same problem , my macbook doesn't switch on working

marioluiggi -

A very easy and fast update indeed! Using this guide and the tools indicated on top I replaced the two RAM cards (2GB each) with two 8GB RAM cards from OWC for a total of 16GB RAM in my MBP Middle 2010 Core 2 Duo (Officially not supported according to Apple).

.

Make sure you select RAM with these specs: 16GB DDR3 PC8500 1066MHz Kit (8GBx2)

.

Apps open much faster and I can run a virtual machine at a decent speed.

Luis Soto - 返信

Removing the battery is not required, but in some instances can make installing ram much easier. If you plan on upgrading from 4GB (2X 2GB) to 8GB (2X 4GB) Removing the battery would be better. There are two levels of ram. If you are replacing both levels, then remove the battery. If you are just replacing the top, dont bother. Removing the battery for very long or even at all (depending on the CMOS battery age and health) could possibly reset settings, the clock, saved wifi passwords, and more.

Everett Whiteman - 返信

It is beneficial to remove the battery at this stage.

Knox Karima - 返信

This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

Jeff Diamond - 返信

Guys I just used my index finger nail. It’s the most useful nail to let grow a little bit for this type of procedure. Came off pretty easy when using both my right hand index and left hand index together to lift the plug up out. Found some plastic folded it and place it right over the socket so the plug would go back in and now the plug holds the plastic in place so I can focus on the main work.

clsmithj - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、サブウーファー/右側スピーカーのケーブルコネクタを基板上のソケットから引き抜きます。

  • ワイヤの下から引き上げます。

Mine had a small piece of insulating material on top of the connector. By removing that first, I could then pry up the connector with less stress on the cable.

istlota - 返信

Great tip! Thanks.

juliet - 返信

  • カメラケーブルのオス側の先端を引っ張って、カメラケーブルの接続を外します。

  • コネクタを基板の表面と並行に、光学ドライブ側に引っ張ってください。ソケットからまっすぐ上向きに引っ張らないでください。

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  • カメラのデータケーブルを光学ドライブのチャンネルから巻き戻します。

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  • 次のネジを外します。

    • 10 mmプラスネジー2本

    • 3.8 mmプラスネジー1本

  • サブウーファーの下からカメラケーブルのブラケットをスライドして、デバイス本体から取り出します。

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  • ディスプレイデータケーブルのロックに固定されているプラスチックのプルタブを掴んで、デバイスのDC-In サイドに向けて回転させます。

  • ディスプレイデータケーブルのコネクタをソケットからまっすぐ引っ張ります。

  • コネクタをまっすぐ引っ張り、裏返します。上向きに引っ張らないでください。

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  • 上部ケースにディスプレイデータケーブルのブラケットを固定している次の2本のネジを外します。

    • 8.6 mm プラスネジー1本

    • 5.6 mmプラスネジー1本

  • ディスプレイデータケーブルのブラケットを上部ケースから持ち上げます。

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  • もしお持ちのデバイスに付いていれば、ディスプレイデータケーブル付近のディスプレイ用ネジに留められたフォーム製テープの一片を剥がします。

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  • 上部ケースに2つのディスプレイブラケットを固定している、外側の6.5 mm T8トルクスネジを2本外します。

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  • MacBookを開口します。それからディスプレイを垂直に立てます。

  • 画像のように開口したMacBookをテーブル上に配置します。

  • 左手でディスプレイと上部ケースを固定しながら、下部のディスプレイブラケットから残りの6.5 mm T8トルクスネジを外します。

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  • 左手で必ずディスプレイと上部ケース両方を押さえてください。ディスプレイと上部ケースが外れてしまうと落下の原因となり、各コンポーネントに致命的なダメージを与えてしまいます。

  • 上部ケースとディスプレイを固定している最後のT8トルクスネジを外します。

When reassembling, Careful not to drop your screw, or it may get stuck to the (magnetic) power adapter port. Oops!

Save yourself some time and don't drop it!

rowdyferret - 返信

  • 上部ケースを右手で掴んで、ディスプレイの上部に向けて若干回転させます。すると上部ディスプレイブラケットが上部ケースの先端から外れます。

  • ディスプレイを上部ケースからわずかに外します。

Make sure you make a 90 degree angle between the keyboard and the display before taking out the screws. If you have less than a 90, you will never get it apart due to the upper display bracket shape. It has to be at the right angle or it won't come out.

mastover - 返信

I place it over keyboard side down hanging over a table. This way I know it's at 90 degrees and it also makes it easier to take it off.

Nick - 返信

  • ディスプレイを上部ケースから持ち上げて外します。ブラケットやケーブルが絡まないようにご注意ください。

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まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

63 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

100%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! 貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Andrew Bookholt

496,523 ポイント

619のガイドは作成済み

I installed the display & it is working great. Only one problem, it now says there is no Airport card installed. The airport card was working fine before I switched out the displays, is there something that is typically unplugged or reset when replacing the display?

tsanders - 返信

Awesome guide!! Thank you so much for walking me through this. It was surprisingly easy. Only took me about 30 min to do. Best Buy Canada quoted me $900 to do this repair. Total cost of tools from iFixit and parts from eBay... $280 :) THANK YOU IFIXIT!!!!!

spenczoid - 返信

i did this with a display that was working in order to tighten the mounting bolts and eliminate the wobble in the screen. now when i power up the computer the screen fails to light up and the fan turns on. would this mean a shorted logic board?

mike eisener - 返信

I had the same problem , I tried to tighten the hinges after I put everything back my macbook was dead only the fan which works.

Did you find out what was the problem

marioluiggi -

have you checked that the display data cable (the one in the top right of the logic board) is plugged in all the way, same for the bluetooth/wifi/camera cable (next to the optical drive connector) is also plugged in all the way?

Patrick Caudill -

Wondering if anyone has seen this before. When looking at replacing the Screen Assembly of a 13" Mid 2010 with one from a Mid 2009, which is accepted as compatible, everything went smoothly until connecting the camera/wifi cable which did not seem to fit. On very close examination the older connector proved to be wider by one extra pin.

dullestman - 返信

Part of the 2010 connector had broken off inside the socket. After some microsurgery, the socket now accepts 2009 and 2010 connectors.

dullestman -

I want to change the screen of a 2010 MacBookPro. I have an 2009 MacBookPro-Screen which is working. But does the 2009 screen fit on the 2010 "socket"?

I don't really understand the problem of @dullestman. Does it work, or do I have to make some speacial things?

Would like to have an answer ;-)

No Thanks -

Thank you for the tutorial, it was very easy to follow the instruction

yannqui - 返信

Thanks for the guide, it was spot on. I dropped my beloved MacBook Pro and it cracked the display. Following the guide was a snap even for my old eyes, the ability to make the pictures full screen is great.

jackpollard - 返信

I found a used complete display unit for sale on ebay. Delivered 50$ and half an hour of work and am up and have a lovely MBP 13 inch mid 2010. Many thanks for the useful and detailed guide.

keithp198 - 返信

can i connect the display to a pi computer?

bruce_baltazar - 返信

I want to change the screen of a 2010 MacBookPro. I have an 2009 MacBookPro-Screen which is working. But does the 2009 screen fit on the 2010 "socket"?

I don't really understand the problem of @dullestman (20.07.2015)...

Has anybody an answer?

No Thanks - 返信

Had the standard problem with a loose screen on a MacBook Pro 13in 2010. Followed the guide which is very clear and got to the screws which I could then tighten. Reassembled and on booting could hear the fan but no display aside from a few flashes. Rechecked the screen data cable connection which was slightly mis-aligned. corrected it and it worked fine. That connection is very sensitive!

Saved me $900 quoted by the Macstore - 90 mins work on my own and a few grey hairs. A glass of red wine helps.

Norbert - 返信

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