はじめに

MagSafe DC-Inボードを交換するにはこのガイドをご利用ください。

  1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibodyに留められた底ケースから次のネジを10本外します。
    • MacBook Pro 13" Unibodyに留められた底ケースから次のネジを10本外します。

      • 3 mmプラスネジー7本

      • 13.5 mmプラスネジー3本

    It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.

    scott523 - 返信

    The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!

    iphonetechtips -

    A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to "cam out" (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point--not the lousy fake "precision" screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake "precision" screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_sc...: "Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as "Phillips #00" or "Torx T5." These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a "Size 8" dress."

    In other words, the quality of many "precision" screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake "precision" Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a "precision screwdriver", it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    One of the best manufacturers of precision screwdrivers is Wiha (http://www.wihatools.com/tech-tools/prec... cost more, but they're worth it. Or buy screwdrivers from iFixit, who seem to be selling JIS screwdrivers.

    Another article with some good info on screw and screwdriver types:

    http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-P...

    Also keep in mind that some screws are tougher to remove and reinstall because they have a thread-locking compound on them, which is usually blue.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Phillips #00 is the correct screwdriver for the lower case. Maybe the one you have is worn or badly made.

    David Fear -

    Perfect man!Many thanks!:)

    wertaerte - 返信

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    twisk - 返信

    thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.

    BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.

    xitxit2 -

    i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big

    plins718 - 返信

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover - 返信

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone: http://www.visibone.com/colorblind/

    Eric Sorenson - 返信

    Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.

    danzeitlin -

    I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.

    jonathanmorgan - 返信

    I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.

    john - 返信

    Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?

    Igor - 返信

    The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.

    Some info here:

    http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...

    "1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"

    "*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."

    Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.

    Winston -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh - 返信

    I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.

    tarriojuan - 返信

    Had no idea they were so expensive.

    Franklin - 返信

    Phillips #00 is the right tool for all the steps (Except the 4 HD T6 screws). Maybe there is dirt in the notch.

    Luis Soto - 返信

    There is any chance to use the Toshiba MQ01ABD 1 TB 2.5" Internal Hard Drive MQ01ABD100 , it has7200 rpm , shuold it work?

    Luis - 返信

    If you are running OS X 10.11.2 or newer, battery provided by iFixIt will not work. I've already tried 2 batteries from iFixIt and neither worked. iFixIt needs to come clean on this unfortunate situation. I've already put 8 hours into this futile effort when it should have taken me 45 minutes.

    gkofga - 返信

    What was your solution? I'm using 10.11.3 OS X. I may need a battery replacement very soon too.

    John Doe -

    <i>The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.</I>

    I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are <b>NOT</b> the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the "Give the author +30 points" button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore. My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together. :-)

    THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added.

    Joseph King - 返信

    It would be nice to remind fixers which length screws go back in which holes, in case they get mixed up...

    Mike - 返信

    Wonderful guide

    Freda - 返信

  2. 取付台タブを外すため、底ケースをわずかに持ち上げて、デバイス本体の背中側に向けて押します。
    • 取付台タブを外すため、底ケースをわずかに持ち上げて、デバイス本体の背中側に向けて押します。

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike - 返信

    • 作業前の注意点として、放電を防ぐためロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外してください。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターを持ち上げます。

    why is step 3 necessary?

    gansodesoya - 返信

    Quote from gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane - 返信

    Quote from gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.

    amiller770 - 返信

    I'm thinking of ordering the spudger. I was thinking of order the heavy duty spudger... or should I just order the normal. Will either of the spudgers work for this DIY?

    shockaaa - 返信

    Once you have a set of spudgers, you will wonder how you ever went without them. :-)

    Brian -

    $@$@. Don't use an non-isolated screwdriver for this. I just shorted-out my battery :(

    Lukas Besch - 返信

    You are absolutely right, never use a screwdriver on the logic board or any connector! Delicate use of fingernails or a credit card will get you through most situations if you lack a spudger.

    Logan Bean -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung - 返信

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    Would it not be advisable to drain the battery completely before attempting to repair, if you want to be sure you don't get a spark when removing the battery connector?

    Berlugana

    bduault - 返信

    Disconnecting the battery connector is not that different from simply unplugging a battery from an older model MacBook with a removable battery. You're not trying to protect yourself from a "spark", but the internal circuitry when taking the MacBook apart.

    amiller770 -

    I neglected step 3 and now my computer won't turn on. Could I have shorted out my logic board?

    Plamen - 返信

    I had the same problem , my macbook doesn't switch on working

    marioluiggi -

    A very easy and fast update indeed! Using this guide and the tools indicated on top I replaced the two RAM cards (2GB each) with two 8GB RAM cards from OWC for a total of 16GB RAM in my MBP Middle 2010 Core 2 Duo (Officially not supported according to Apple).

    .

    Make sure you select RAM with these specs: 16GB DDR3 PC8500 1066MHz Kit (8GBx2)

    .

    Apps open much faster and I can run a virtual machine at a decent speed.

    Luis Soto - 返信

    Removing the battery is not required, but in some instances can make installing ram much easier. If you plan on upgrading from 4GB (2X 2GB) to 8GB (2X 4GB) Removing the battery would be better. There are two levels of ram. If you are replacing both levels, then remove the battery. If you are just replacing the top, dont bother. Removing the battery for very long or even at all (depending on the CMOS battery age and health) could possibly reset settings, the clock, saved wifi passwords, and more.

    Everett Whiteman - 返信

    It is beneficial to remove the battery at this stage.

    Knox Karima - 返信

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond - 返信

    Guys I just used my index finger nail. It’s the most useful nail to let grow a little bit for this type of procedure. Came off pretty easy when using both my right hand index and left hand index together to lift the plug up out. Found some plastic folded it and place it right over the socket so the plug would go back in and now the plug holds the plastic in place so I can focus on the main work.

    clsmithj - 返信

    • ファンコネクタを基板上のソケットからファンコネクタを引き抜きます。

    • コネクタの接続を外すには、ファンケーブルのワイヤ下からスパッジャーでツイストしながら作業をすると上手くいきます。

    • ファンのソケットとファンのコネクタは2番目、3番目の画像で確認できます。スパッジャーを使ってファンのコネクタをまっすぐソケットから引き抜く際に、基板に付いているプラスチックのファンソケットを壊さないようご注意ください。基板のレイアウトは2番目の画像で確認できますが、お手元のデバイスのデザインと若干異なることがあるかもしれません。ファンソケットは同じはずです。

    Bummer, I broke the connector at the solder points. Be careful!

    Hector - 返信

    Any tips on how to solder it back on? I made the same mistake.

    Juan Sebastian -

    Hi Hector, how did you put it back?

    I broke mine too and carefully glued it back in but now the fan isn't working... But I don't know if it's because of this or because it does not need to switch on as I also changed my hard drive from HD to SSHD Hybrid.

    Thanks

    Antoine B -

    I did a terrible mistake when I try to remove the fan connector socket form the logic board I accidentally pop out the connector from the board.. I am not expert in soldering so big problem for me. What should I do?

    Nielven Araullo - 返信

    Bring it to someone who know to solde...

    Chel - 返信

    that you dont have to break off the fan connector).It is possible to leave the fan attached to the logic board by the single torx screw (on the right hand side in the image below). So h

    Graham Tunnadine - 返信

    The image is very misleading. This is why many people are breaking their connectors. Please correct this and make it VERY clear that one has to put the spudger straight behind the cables, NOT behind the connector, as shown in the pic.

    Giunia - 返信

    I agree with Giunia. I just broke my fan socket off the board too

    vejdani -

    I agree with Giunia. Just broke my fan socket off the board >_<

    agoodcourage - 返信

    Thankfully there is a helpful guide in the comments on this post for fixing the socket in the likely event that you snap the sucker clean off like I did:

    I popped off the fan connection from the logic board...Fix?

    agoodcourage - 返信

    This is the worst step from this repair.

    BE CAREFUL.

    Mer - 返信

    i also broke the fan connector off from my board, currently attempting to glue down with super glue. i agree with the others. photo could be updated to show spudger behind the connector wires (not at the corner of the connectors base as it currently, misleadingly shows). and perhaps even another line drawing or illustration showing how this fan connector fits into its socket on the board like a foot being put into a shoe. toes down first, heel with wires clicks in last. coming out the heel of the connector with wires comes up and out of the shoe first, then the toes. be careful out there.

    satanders - 返信

    I see people talking about gluing it back. This is a connector that carries electricity, the electricity is what make the fan turn, not magic. The connector needs to be soldered back, not glued., as glue doesn’t conduct electricity. Any attempt at gluing it back will make further reparations very complicated, as the reparator will have to try to remove the glue you put in order to be able to solder back.

    Long story short, if you think gluing it back is a good idea, you should not be attempting this repair (changing the keyboard) in the first place.

    Albert - 返信

    • 次の3本のネジを外します。

      • 7 mm T6 トルクスネジー1本

      • 5.4 mm T6トルクスネジー2本

    コメントを追加する

    • 上部ケースからファンを取り出します。

    コメントを追加する

    • ディスプレイデータケーブルのロックに固定されたプラスチックのタブを掴んで、コンピューターのDC-Inサイドに向けて回転させます。

    • ゆっくりとディスプレイデータケーブルのコネクタを基板と並行に引っ張ります。

      • コネクタを上向きに引っ張らないでください。コネクタにダメージを与えてしまいます。

    On my system the pad on top of the connector was shifted making the bracket difficult to rotate into the up position. The bracket looks like a handle so my first instinct was to pull it straight up. Big mistake. I ended up popping the brass guard off the connector on the logic board. The instructions could benefit from an arrow indicating the direction to pull and rotation of the bracket.

    highnoontoday - 返信

    The same thing happened to me. What did you do when you reassembled? thx Alan

    Alan Schwartz -

    Everything went fine, but now I cannot get the connector back - it seems that I'm doing everything in reverse order, but i doesn't fit

    Alexei Zoubov - 返信

    I have break the connector trying to remove it to fast. Can I fix it by myself ?

    darkelek - 返信

  3. Fixmasのスピリットを広めましょう
    クーポンコードFIXMAS12を使えば、50ドル以上のお買い上げで12ドル割引となります。
    Fixmasのスピリットを広めましょう
    クーポンコードFIXMAS12を使えば、50ドル以上のお買い上げで12ドル割引となります。
    • ディスプレイデータケーブルのブラケットに上部ケースを固定している2本のネジを外します。

      • 8.6 mmプラスネジー1本

      • 5.6 mmプラスネジー1本

    • ディスプレイデータケーブルのブラケットを上部ケースから持ち上げます。

    The 8.6mm screw is stripped, what to do now?

    mwmouawad - 返信

    Same problem here but with the 5.6 mm one. In fact, that screw was slightly different from a phillips, it seems a tiny torq-set screw. Is that possible? Anyone else had a similar problem? I stripped it out using a phillips 00 that worked perfectly removing all the other phillips screws...

    Blackwood - 返信

    Did you solve the stripping problem? I stripped the 5.6.

    Buzzy - 返信

    the other guides call the same screws 7mm and 5mm. please say which one is correct

    garegin - 返信

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、サブウーファーと右側スピーカーのコネクタを基板から引き上げます。

    How does this thing reconnect? there are no visible clips, hooks, pins, nothing. Adhesive?

    Ben Flemming - 返信

    Push it straight down. It should snap in.

    BobG - 返信

    My subwoofer connector cam off the logic board. I guess I’ll see if there is no issue putting it back together with a working sub woofer

    Greg Zulli - 返信

    Haha on the picture the person broke it! You should take it off same way you take off the fan connector. This illustrates what happens when you do it wrong.

    Albert - 返信

    I managed to break the connection to the mother board. I think when you remove the connection the bottom part should remain so as to reconnect. Maybe a little more info here would help. In the meantime my only option is to solder a new connection. Anybody tried this with a fine pointed soldering iron? Solder fine cables direct to the motherboard? By the way I don’t appreciate the haha from Albert.

    malcolm5054 - 返信

    • カメラケーブルコネクタを光学ドライブ側に向けて引っ張り、基板から接続を外します。

    • このソケットはメタル製で簡単に曲がってしまいます。コネクタを基板上のソケットと接続させる前に、位置を合わせて確認してください。

    As mentioned, the socket can be easily damaged when re-inserting it. I didn't care enough and one pin was damaged. Wifi was not detected.

    Hopefully the pin was not broken (only bent). Putting it back in its correct position, the wifi re-appeared.

    Arnaud ROSAY - 返信

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、光学ドライブ、ハードドライブ、トラックパッドケーブルコネクタを基板から引き抜きます。

    コメントを追加する

    • 爪先やスパッジャーの先端を使って、キーボードリボンケーブル用のZIFソケット上の固定用ケーブルを引き上げて裏返します。

    • キーボード用リボンケーブルをソケットからスライドさせるには、スパッジャーを使ってください。

    Sometimes spulger is not the best tool to slide the cable out. If it is difficult to slide, try two toothpicks to pull the cable from two sides simultaneosly.

    Leo Nikitin - 返信

    the zif cable is especially difficult to get back in fully. Seems I might need to make my own tool with fine tweezers that are rubber dipped (or something similar). Have had no luck otherwise and worry I am doing damage.

    Mateo - 返信

    As Mateo said, replacing the zif cable is NOT easy, and in this case, will leave you with a computer that won't power on- this cable connects the power button. I learned a trick somewhere for dealing with these cables- put a piece of good sticky tape on the cable, and use it to pull it back into the connector. Works every time.

    stevesontheroad - 返信

    Yeah! The tape trick worked for me. Thanks!

    Ted Bishop -

    Thank you Steve, it’s works perfectly.

    never_forever18 -

    Steve's trick of using a piece of tape is definitely a good one. It makes the re-insertion much easier.

    BobG - 返信

    Does anyone have pictures showing how to reinstall the keyboard and backlight cable?

    Michele Rathman - 返信

    • キーボードバックライト用のリボンケーブルソケットから黒色のテープで小さな一片を剥がします。

    Be very careful while taking this black tape off. I accidentally broke the chip off the motherboard and so my keyboard is not backlit any more.

    Asim Akath - 返信

    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、キーボードバックライト用のリボンケーブル用のZIFソケット上の固定ブラップケーブルを引き上げて裏返します。

    • スパッジャーを使って、ソケットからキーボードのバックライトリボンケーブルをスライドします。

    Easy to take out Zif cable but can't seem to get it back in again.

    linuxuser101 - 返信

    Be especially careful as my hole socket detached from the board. It would have helped to vertically press the socket to the board with the tip of a spudger. Thus partially blocking the strap, you can first peel the free end, then change position and peel the rest. Slide the ribbon cable perfectly horizontally.

    Rainer - 返信

    I had the same issue of trying to get the ZIF cable back in but found that if I used a piece of scotch tape, it worked. I followed this guide. MacBook unibody keyboard ribbon cable won't go in

    spearson - 返信

    A reassembly trick that works for me is to use some 3/4" blue painters tape to stick to the very back (lower end) of the ribbon cable so I can pull it up and back before locking the cam. Trying to get a good grip without cutting, or crimping the ribbon means no tweezers or pliers can be used.

    originalmachead - 返信

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板からバッテリーインディケーター用ケーブルコネクタを引き抜きます。

    seems like a large leap from step 15 to 16. The microphone is under another mechanism of screws near the data cable bracket. Also there is a step missing above in which the screw is removed.

    Jean Kang - 返信

    If you’re swapping top cases, you might need to remove the battery indicator from the case and swap it to the replacement top case. It attaches with three very tiny Phillips screws. I wasn’t aware that my replacement top case didn’t have this part and got confused when reversing the steps to reassemble and I didn’t have this connector. I had to take the battery back out in order to swap the indicator over.

    Mark Barnes - 返信

    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、上部ケースに留められた接着剤からマイクを引き上げます。

    on the Australian/Asia version speaker cable is located underneath the logic board.

    linuxuser101 - 返信

    • 次のネジを外します。

      • 7 mm T6トルクスネジー2本

      • 3.3 mm T6トルクスネジー5本

      • 4 mm T6トルクスネジー2本

    Can someone tell me what is glued on the ethernet port and what kind of glue it is?

    Harry - 返信

    • 基板を取り出す前にバッテリーを取り出す必要はありませんが、基板を簡単に安全に取り出しやすくなります。バッテリーを残す場合は、基板をバーコード付近のバッテリーケース側に向けて曲げないようにご注意ください。

    • 上部ケースにバッテリーを固定している次のトライポイントネジを外します。

      • 5.5 mmトライポイントネジー1本

      • 13.5 mmトライポイントネジー1本

    • 上部ケースからバッテリーを取り出します。

    Why not do this step near the start? Would make it easier to replace the ribbon cables in step 12, 13 and 14

    Joe Corbett - 返信

    • 上部ケースの横側がクリアになるまで、基板を左側から持ち上げます。

    • 上部ケースサイドから基板を持ち上げて取り出します。DC-Inボードが絡まないようにご注意ください。

    Be careful while taking the board out, as the heatsink usually is caught by the optic drive.

    Leo Nikitin - 返信

    If you only purpose is remove the heatsink, the microphone cable is Okay be leave here.

    yzg1199 - 返信

    • 基板上のソケットからDC-In Boardのコネクタを引っ張り、DC-In Boardの接続を外します。

    Nice tutorial, I went to ace and they had The IFIXIT 64 bit Driver Kit for $23.99. great quality designed for electronic (computer, iPhone ). Make sure the part you buy is exactly the same part number of what you are replacing . The supplier sent me the wrong part as they said it was for the mid 2010 Mac. An the mid 2010 MacBook Pro is smaller.

    kelto1 - 返信

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

67 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Walter Galan

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1,203のガイドは作成済み

The Tri-wing Y1screwdriver suggested for this procedure is too big for the removal of the battery screws. I completed replacing the DC in board without removing the battery.

rkterao - 返信

I have just tested several of those drivers from our shelf in 3 different MacBooks we have here with tri-wing type screws, and they are all a perfect fit. I have sent you an email to try and find out why your driver did not fit, you may have a mid 2009 model with pentalobular screws instead?

Eric Essen -

Thanks! Guide was wonderful! I wish there had been a bit more information about the proper routing of the dc-in cable as the first time I put it back together I accidentally routed the cable on the outside of the mother board riser which made it impossible to seat the display cable hold down clamp properly. I had to re-remove the main board in order to get the dc-in cable on the other side of the riser. Not a biggie, but a note on that step would be helpful. Thanks again!!

joyandrob - 返信

PROBLEM!!!

I followed this tutorial and when I plugged my computer back in the green light went on for the charger, but the power button does not work at all does anyone have any info as to why this happened?

Thanks

Joey

Joey Joe - 返信

To Joey Joe:

I had the same problem, turned out the keyboard zif cable wasn't all the way seated. It can be tricky to get it seated, I use a dental pick to pull up on the cable while guiding it into the slot.

Good luck

maccentric - 返信

Ok this guide was killer. Thank you so much. My only issue is this: Now that i've finished reinstalling everything and fixing my problem- the monitor will not illuminate.. I have Start-up tone and backlit keyboard- but no display? Checked the display connector and it's as seated as it will ever be. Any tips?

Rob W - 返信

Ok, I am getting power, display comes on, doesn't actually boot. The screen stays white, no start-up sound, fan comes on and stays on. Please help

Blair Gibson - 返信

I finished the steps and it worked. The battery indicator only showed a % at the login screen so I did a SCM reset. Did not fix the problem. But turned the charge light to orange instead of continues green. Then after an hour or so the light went out and the battery didn't charge anymore plus the macbook didn't get any power from just the cable as well.

Any ideas?

Sean Stols - 返信

Before I go through this procedure I would like to get input if I should move forward with the DC-IN replacement:

- charger cable does not light green/orange thus no charge

- when charger attached, the battery indicator shows that it is being charged but charge will not increase charge nor decrease.

- replaced charger still no charge

- SMC reset made no difference

- Side charge lights when charger cable is inserted/release DOES work (also with push button)

- replaced battery still no charge

- new battery did power up laptop and Mac OS read charge properly but again no charge

- WEIRD: If I power the laptop and have the charger cable it does not drain the battery but will not increase charge! For example I left the laptop on for 2 hours and it remained at the same battery charge. If I removed the charger the battery would drain.

Sounds like I should go for it however it is pretty complicated however I did completely did an iMac. Thanks for the input.

Jay Mann - 返信

i have exactly your problem, i changed dc-in but no luck ☹️ when i connect charger to laptop, it has no light like you said, i thought it was dc-in but replacing it with a new one didn’t help

vejdani -

I have the exact same issue. We’re you able to figure out what needed to be fixed?

Sarah Kaiser -

This DC in board is compatible com macbook pro 15” early 2011?

nilverton lopes - 返信

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