1. MacBook Pro 13インチ Unibodyに留められた底ケースから次のネジを10本外します。
    • MacBook Pro 13インチ Unibodyに留められた底ケースから次のネジを10本外します。

    • 3 mmプラスネジー7本

    • 13.5 mmプラスネジー3本

    It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.

    scott523 - 返信

    The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!

    iphonetechtips -

    A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to "cam out" (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point--not the lousy fake "precision" screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake "precision" screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_sc...: "Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as "Phillips #00" or "Torx T5." These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a "Size 8" dress."

    In other words, the quality of many "precision" screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake "precision" Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a "precision screwdriver", it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    One of the best manufacturers of precision screwdrivers is Wiha (http://www.wihatools.com/tech-tools/prec... cost more, but they're worth it. Or buy screwdrivers from iFixit, who seem to be selling JIS screwdrivers.

    Another article with some good info on screw and screwdriver types:


    Also keep in mind that some screws are tougher to remove and reinstall because they have a thread-locking compound on them, which is usually blue.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Phillips #00 is the correct screwdriver for the lower case. Maybe the one you have is worn or badly made.

    David Fear -

    Perfect man!Many thanks!:)

    wertaerte - 返信

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    twisk - 返信

    thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.

    BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.

    xitxit2 -

    i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big

    plins718 - 返信

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover - 返信

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone: http://www.visibone.com/colorblind/

    Eric Sorenson - 返信

    Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.

    danzeitlin -

    I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.

    jonathanmorgan - 返信

    I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.

    john - 返信

    Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?

    Igor - 返信

    The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.

    Some info here:


    "1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"

    "*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."

    Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.

    Winston -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh - 返信

    I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.

    tarriojuan - 返信

    Had no idea they were so expensive.

    Franklin - 返信

    Phillips #00 is the right tool for all the steps (Except the 4 HD T6 screws). Maybe there is dirt in the notch.

    Luis Soto - 返信

    There is any chance to use the Toshiba MQ01ABD 1 TB 2.5" Internal Hard Drive MQ01ABD100 , it has7200 rpm , shuold it work?

    Luis - 返信

    If you are running OS X 10.11.2 or newer, battery provided by iFixIt will not work. I've already tried 2 batteries from iFixIt and neither worked. iFixIt needs to come clean on this unfortunate situation. I've already put 8 hours into this futile effort when it should have taken me 45 minutes.

    gkofga - 返信

    What was your solution? I'm using 10.11.3 OS X. I may need a battery replacement very soon too.

    John Doe -

    <i>The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.</I>

    I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are <b>NOT</b> the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the "Give the author +30 points" button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore. My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together. :-)

    THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added.

    Joseph King - 返信

    It would be nice to remind fixers which length screws go back in which holes, in case they get mixed up...

    Mike - 返信

    Wonderful guide

    Freda - 返信

  2. 取付台タブを外すため、底ケースをわずかに持ち上げて、デバイス本体の背中側に向けて押します。
    • 取付台タブを外すため、底ケースをわずかに持ち上げて、デバイス本体の背中側に向けて押します。

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike - 返信

  3. 作業前の注意点として、放電を防ぐためロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外してください。
    • 作業前の注意点として、放電を防ぐためロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外してください。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターを持ち上げます。

    why is step 3 necessary?

    gansodesoya - 返信


    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane - 返信


    why is step 3 necessary?

    Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.

    amiller770 - 返信

    I'm thinking of ordering the spudger. I was thinking of order the heavy duty spudger... or should I just order the normal. Will either of the spudgers work for this DIY?

    shockaaa - 返信

    Once you have a set of spudgers, you will wonder how you ever went without them. :-)

    Brian -

    $@$@. Don't use an non-isolated screwdriver for this. I just shorted-out my battery :(

    Lukas Besch - 返信

    You are absolutely right, never use a screwdriver on the logic board or any connector! Delicate use of fingernails or a credit card will get you through most situations if you lack a spudger.

    Logan Bean -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung - 返信

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    Would it not be advisable to drain the battery completely before attempting to repair, if you want to be sure you don't get a spark when removing the battery connector?


    bduault - 返信

    Disconnecting the battery connector is not that different from simply unplugging a battery from an older model MacBook with a removable battery. You're not trying to protect yourself from a "spark", but the internal circuitry when taking the MacBook apart.

    amiller770 -

    I neglected step 3 and now my computer won't turn on. Could I have shorted out my logic board?

    Plamen - 返信

    I had the same problem , my macbook doesn't switch on working

    marioluiggi -

    A very easy and fast update indeed! Using this guide and the tools indicated on top I replaced the two RAM cards (2GB each) with two 8GB RAM cards from OWC for a total of 16GB RAM in my MBP Middle 2010 Core 2 Duo (Officially not supported according to Apple).


    Make sure you select RAM with these specs: 16GB DDR3 PC8500 1066MHz Kit (8GBx2)


    Apps open much faster and I can run a virtual machine at a decent speed.

    Luis Soto - 返信

    Removing the battery is not required, but in some instances can make installing ram much easier. If you plan on upgrading from 4GB (2X 2GB) to 8GB (2X 4GB) Removing the battery would be better. There are two levels of ram. If you are replacing both levels, then remove the battery. If you are just replacing the top, dont bother. Removing the battery for very long or even at all (depending on the CMOS battery age and health) could possibly reset settings, the clock, saved wifi passwords, and more.

    Everett Whiteman - 返信

    It is beneficial to remove the battery at this stage.

    Knox Karima - 返信

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond - 返信

    Guys I just used my index finger nail. It’s the most useful nail to let grow a little bit for this type of procedure. Came off pretty easy when using both my right hand index and left hand index together to lift the plug up out. Found some plastic folded it and place it right over the socket so the plug would go back in and now the plug holds the plastic in place so I can focus on the main work.

    clsmithj - 返信

  4. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、右側スピーカーケーブルコネクター/サブウーファーをロジックボード上のソケットから外して持ち上げます。 画像に示したようにコネクターの下から持ち上げてください。ソケット自体に接触しないでください。ロジックボードからソケットをアクシデントで外してしまうことがあります。 画像に示したようにコネクターの下から持ち上げてください。ソケット自体に接触しないでください。ロジックボードからソケットをアクシデントで外してしまうことがあります。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、右側スピーカーケーブルコネクター/サブウーファーをロジックボード上のソケットから外して持ち上げます。

    • 画像に示したようにコネクターの下から持ち上げてください。ソケット自体に接触しないでください。ロジックボードからソケットをアクシデントで外してしまうことがあります。

    You must first separate the little foam pad to see better how to pry the cable

    connector up. You must be

    careful not to root up also its socket

    stuck on the logic board

    ramonananos - 返信

    My subwoofer/right speaker connection seemed to be soldered on the main board. Of course, I pried this off..realizing right after that there was no reconnecting it (&^$%^@!). There's really no reason to even disconnect this wire on the MacBook pro 13 mid-2009

    Glad this is my "project" Mac

    srlincoln - 返信

    Please Be Carefully With This Step, Because I Had To Resolder It Back To The Logic Board. But There Is A Black Foam Piece Over The Cable You Have To Pry Up, Lift The Foam Piece And Then Try To CAREFULLY Pry Cable Connector

    BWilliams842 - 返信

    A better description would have been worth a lot....

    I accidently pried off the socket aswell... gonna have to go to the computer/robotics lab at my college to resolder it -.-

    Juliane Aschenbrenner - 返信

    I didn't have to do step 4 for my mid-2010 13" mbp.

    jonk2015 - 返信

    CAUTION!! Note is required here! First off step is truly unnecessary! Secondly, just don't do it!

    Edward Turkovich - 返信

    A real closeup photo of this small piece of hard plastic that prevents the connector from falling out would be a great help. !

    Peter Mayo - 返信

    Don't follow this step!!!! It is complete unnecessary. I just riped of the socket....

    hilbert - 返信

    Thank you for the warning not to perform this step. It is unnecessary to unplug that connector.

    Fill IP - 返信

    Clearly I should have read this as well, popped the socket off even being gentle.


    cpt awesome - 返信

  5. カメラケーブルの先端をまっすぐにソケットから引いて接続を外します。
    • カメラケーブルの先端をまっすぐにソケットから引いて接続を外します。

    • 小さなハードプラスチップのパーツがロジックボードに取り付けられており、ソケットからカメラケーブルが落ちるのを防いでいます。このパーツをまず取り除いてから作業を進めてください。コネクターにダメージを与えてしまいます。

    • ロジックボードの表面と並行してコネクターを光学ドライブ側に向けて引っ張ります。ソケットからまっすぐ上に引っ張らないでください。

    Be careful to the piece of plastic that prevents camera cable failing out its socket! Do not force connector! Look at plastic before attempting to remove connector Plastic is partially covered by cdrom flat connector at right of camera cable connector

    Silvio - 返信

    that's not only the camera but the wifi and bluetooth too. Be extremely careful!

    Jose Luis Blas - 返信

    So I unfortunately did not find this guide when I was replacing my keyboard. I did at first force this connection, didn't know I could peel that black plastic piece off, then was able to smoothly get it in. Now my Bluetooth/Wi-Fi/web cam isn't working. I'm looking at the connection now and it looks undamaged. How do I know for certain I damaged the cord and/or socket

    Vic - 返信

    Does anybody knows how I can change the cable+connector, and where to buy it? Thanks

    Guillermo - 返信

    Please be VERY careful. I fixed my Macbook Pro A1278 Backlit Keyboard but lost my WiFi/Camera/Bluetooth…

    Caio Carvalho - 返信

    This step is unnecessarily tricky. I’ve tried to make it better by adding images highlighting the plastic stopper thingy and showing a clear arrow of the direction the cable should be pulled.

    However, simply pulling the cable may not be enough to remove it. It sure wasn’t for me. I think there ought to be a close-up of the two little nubbins on the sides of the plug which one uses to wiggle it loose from the connector by gently prying with a tiny flathead screwdriver. I didn’t add that tip because (a) it would have made the instructions longer, (b) I didn’t think to take a photo of it, and (c) using a screwdriver carelessly next to the logic board could scratch or break components on the motherboard. A guitar pick or very small spudger might work.

    hackerb9 - 返信

    @hackerb9 Thanks for your edits and comments! I took some additional shots and tried to clean this up a little for everyone. There should be a lot less confusion now. Interestingly, neither of the two MacBook Pros used for these guides had the plastic retainer piece you folks mentioned, but I left that image in a link so everyone can still see what it looks like if needed.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thanks for incorporating some of my edits and for taking new photos.

    Are you the one who took the original photographs? If so, you did originally have the hard plastic retainer as it was in those photos, just obscured by your thumbnail. The glue on the retainer allows it to shift a bit, so it's possible you took out the cable and knocked off the retainer without noticing it.

    Your two frame animation of pulling out the plug is helpful to show the proper direction. Given the number of people who have destroyed their MacBooks from this procedure, I think we should do even better. The instruction would be clearer if it said, “Disconnect the camera cable by sliding it horizontally out of its socket.”

    Also, if you can post a link to a picture without fingers in the shot, I will add an arrow showing the proper direction. (I would have added it to the original, but visually it would have gone through your fingers.)

    hackerb9 - 返信

    P.s. this isn't as important, but where did you hear the tip about the hairdryer? I'd leave that out as firmly peeling it up works fine.

    hackerb9 -

    Negative, I’m not the original photographer. You’re right, I do see the retainer in some of the previous photos, although it wasn’t in any of the images for this particular step. May have been an oversight on the part of the original author! So I’m glad you caught it. I updated the verbiage as you requested. Don’t worry about adding arrows—at this point, if someone ignores both the images and the multiple warnings in the text, that’s no longer a fault with the guide. The heat/hairdryer tip is standard practice for anything that’s secured with adhesive—I hardly ever work on a MacBook of any vintage without using a heat gun at least a couple times. It may not be strictly necessary, but the result is much cleaner and it reduces the risk of accident.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  6. 光学ドライブの回路からカメラデータケーブルを巻き戻します。
    • 光学ドライブの回路からカメラデータケーブルを巻き戻します。

  7. 上部ケースの右側スピーカーとカメラデータケーブルを留めている次のネジを外します。 8 mmプラスネジー2本
    • 上部ケースの右側スピーカーとカメラデータケーブルを留めている次のネジを外します。

    • 8 mmプラスネジー2本

    • 4mm プラスネジー1本

    • 8 mmプラスネジのうち1本はカメラケーブルのグランドループの中に留められています。

    • サブウーファーの下からカメラのケーブルブラケットをスライドしてコンピューターから取り出します。

    For my mid-2010 mbp, removing the 4mm screw is not enough as the camera cable bracket is under the black cover. I need to unscrew another screw (see the dark cover in step 6). However, the speaker (dark circle in step 6) is a strong magnet and the little screw flew onto it and crack the speaker slightly. You need to be very careful of this. The sound wasn't as clear when I turn on loud volume after that.

    jonk2015 - 返信

    in my case the 8-mm screw was stuck. I needed to drill the head.

    Fill IP - 返信

    Be careful when taking off the screws here. When I was taking apart the bracket, one of the screws became severely stripped (to the point where it was rounded. I had to wait to wait until my father got home so he can give me his screw extracting tools. The same can be said for the display cable bracket ( but that one wasn’t such a big deal for me since I didn’t severely strip it, a bigger screwdriver helped out for me.)

    Willie Narvaez - 返信

  8. ディスプレイデーターケーブルロックに留められているプラスチックプルタブを掴み、コンピューターの DC-in側に向けて巻きます。 ディスプレイデーターケーブルコネクターをソケットからまっすぐ引き離します。 コネクターをソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げるのではなく手前に引いてください。
    • ディスプレイデーターケーブルロックに留められているプラスチックプルタブを掴み、コンピューターの DC-in側に向けて巻きます。

    • ディスプレイデーターケーブルコネクターをソケットからまっすぐ引き離します。

    • コネクターをソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げるのではなく手前に引いてください。

    Well, my display ended up looking like this after the repair:


    As you can see, there was a light/dark banded pattern along the bottom of the screen, corresponding to the LCD's backlight. In my case it was also accompanied by a constant high pitched whistling noise. I swear to anything that's holy, it was not coming from the fan or the speaker, but rather the motherboard itself.

    Anyway, both these problems went away when I disconnected and reconnected the connector at this stage. I'm saying this on the off chance it helps someone else.

    Jonty Levine - 返信

    I did what you said, disconnect and reconnect the display data cable but the problem didn't go away. Any idea how to fix this?

    jonk2015 -

    I also encountered the issue at the bottom of the screen. I can't get mine to go away. I can make it vary a bit or at least the whole display to vary by fluctuating the connection, but it just won't go away. I'm open to any other suggestions.

    I might have manhandled the bottom of my screen a bit. I didn't realize how to get the plastic u-shaped cover off, and I fudged around with it for a while before reading somewhere that it just slides down. I thought I had read that it snapped on, so I had been a little flustered on why it wouldn't snap off.

    Anyway, if anyone has suggestions I'd be all ears.

    Tim -

    It's not to clear but there is a piece of spring steel that rotates away from the main (circuit board side) of the connector....this piece sort of hugs the parameter of the screen cable locking it to the circuit board...both arms wrapped around your brother....looking closely (10x magnifier) at this cable one of the gold connections is slightly oxidized---my display arbitrarily flickers and this symptom is lessened as the temperature increases...I suspect this is the cuase of the screen flashing on/off

    brian62 - 返信

  9. Apple Watch キット

    スクリーンとバッテリー の修理が簡単にできます。


    Apple Watch キット

    スクリーンとバッテリー の修理が簡単にできます。

  10. 上部ケースに留められたディスプレイデータケーブルブラケットから次のネジを2本外します。 7 mmプラスネジー1本
    • 上部ケースに留められたディスプレイデータケーブルブラケットから次のネジを2本外します。

    • 7 mmプラスネジー1本

    • 5 mmプラスネジー1本

    • 上部ケースからディスプレイデータケーブルのブラケットを持ち上げます。

  11. 上部ケースに留められた2つのディスプレイブラケットから 6.5 mm外付けトルクスネジを2本ずつ(計4本)を外します。 上部ケースに留められた2つのディスプレイブラケットから 6.5 mm外付けトルクスネジを2本ずつ(計4本)を外します。
    • 上部ケースに留められた2つのディスプレイブラケットから 6.5 mm外付けトルクスネジを2本ずつ(計4本)を外します。

    This says t use a 6.5 mm Torx driver. In the required tools list it only mentions a 6 mm Torx driver. Where can we find a 6.5 mm Torx Driver?

    Matthew Shaw - 返信

    The 6mm vs 6.5mm is the length of the screw. It is still a T6 head (although mine was a T7 for some reason). I think the middle screw on each side is 0.5mm longer.

    Dean Landry -

    lol… turns out mine is a mid-2012 model. That accounts for the different screw head. But the 6mm vs 6.5mm still use the same driver if they’re both T6.

    Dean Landry -

    In my case, i had to use a t8 screwdriver. My tools are not from Ifixit but i’m just sayin.

    Willie Narvaez - 返信

    Correct! The screws on the Mid-2010 are T8. As far as the length goes they were 6.16 mm, 6.13 mm, 6.11 mm and 6.07 mm (measured end to end) and the head thickness was consistent at 0.85 mm on mine, so I,m going to go out on a limb ans say they are the same size. FYI, you can’t tell by eye any difference in size.

    It would pay to check on which A1278 sub-model you were working, just to allow for sub-model differences.

    Josh - 返信

    My tools are from ifixit, just saying, also.

    Josh - 返信

    Hey folks, regarding the screw/driver sizes: there are separate guides for the Mid 2010 model with the T8 screws. Always use the correct guide for your model to avoid confusion, stripped screws, etc. Hope this helps!

    Jeff Suovanen - 返信

  12. MacBook 本体を開きます。ディスプレイが上部ケースに対して直角になるように開いてください。
    • MacBook 本体を開きます。ディスプレイが上部ケースに対して直角になるように開いてください。

    • 画像に示したようにMacBookをテーブルに対して垂直に立てます。

    • 左手でディスプレイと上部ケース両方を持ちながら、下部ディスプレイのブラケットから残りの6.5 mm トルクスネジを外します。

  13. ディスプレイと上部ケースを同時に左手で押さえてください。手で固定せずに作業をするとディスプレイ/上部ケースが落ちて外れてしまい、各コンポーネントにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。
    • ディスプレイと上部ケースを同時に左手で押さえてください。手で固定せずに作業をするとディスプレイ/上部ケースが落ちて外れてしまい、各コンポーネントにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    • 上部ケースに留めれらたディスプレイから最後の残りの6 mm T6トルクスネジを外します。

  14. 右手で上部ケースを持ち、ディスプレイの上部に向けてわずかにずらしながら押し出します。すると上部ディスプレイブラケットから上部ケースの先端が外れます。 ディスプレイを上部ケースから少しずらして外します。
    • 右手で上部ケースを持ち、ディスプレイの上部に向けてわずかにずらしながら押し出します。すると上部ディスプレイブラケットから上部ケースの先端が外れます。

    • ディスプレイを上部ケースから少しずらして外します。

  15. ブラケットやケーブルが絡まないように気をつけながら、上部ケースからディスプレイを持ち上げて外します。
    • ブラケットやケーブルが絡まないように気をつけながら、上部ケースからディスプレイを持ち上げて外します。

    Re-assembly hint: Laying the base, keyboard down, on a table top with the hinge side over the edge about 1/2" toward you is a more stable position for re-assembly than trying to do this up on its edge. This has the added benefit of being able to reinsert the torn screws vertically.

    Pete H - 返信

    May be in the wrong place but then please direct me. At this step, can I just take off the upper half (meaning the screen, LCD, and top housing shell in one) and simply replace it with another upper half of the same edition???

    cmackay13stmarys - 返信

    Yes, you can. Thanks what I'm doing now. :)

    Mike Mayaka -

    @Pete H, nice tip, thanks. 8-)

    Josh - 返信

  16. 画像にあるようにクラッチカバーを手に取り、ディスプレイの右側に向けてスライドします。 約0.5cmほどスライドしたら止めます。これ以上無理やりスライドしないでください。
    • 画像にあるようにクラッチカバーを手に取り、ディスプレイの右側に向けてスライドします。

    • 約0.5cmほどスライドしたら止めます。これ以上無理やりスライドしないでください。

    i've found this impossible to get back on correctly.

    i cant get the plastic to slide back that 1/4" it needs to fit properly

    Does anyone know any tricks? :(

    Ashley Berthon - 返信

    imagine the monitor upside down and the screen facing away from you. You have to put the cover over to the right of where it goes about an inch or 2 and it will go in, then, slide it left to lock it into place

    stdonato - 返信

    This is a great guide but it's lacking one thing - where can I get a replacement clutch? I don't have a donor machine available, can I order just the plastic piece somewhere?

    Wayne Poole - 返信

    I was replacing a clutch cover that had cracked into a few pieces. I found the replacement didn’t slide to the left on installation. On further investigation I found the tabs from the old one were broken off inside where the cover slides. Once they were removed the install wen much better.

    I found my replacement cover on Amazon.ca in case someone needs a Canadian source.

    Dean Landry - 返信

  17. ゆっくりとクラッチカバーを長辺側で前後に揺らしながら、ディスプレイから引き離します。 クラッチカバーの長辺側に沿ってこの動作を行い、ディスプレイに取り付けるフレームワークから持ち上げることできれば作業を止めてください。
    • ゆっくりとクラッチカバーを長辺側で前後に揺らしながら、ディスプレイから引き離します。

    • クラッチカバーの長辺側に沿ってこの動作を行い、ディスプレイに取り付けるフレームワークから持ち上げることできれば作業を止めてください。

  18. ディスプレイからクラッチカバーを取り出します。
    • ディスプレイからクラッチカバーを取り出します。

    The flat face goes on the bottom edge of the display. The display and wifi cables must be routed below the hinges in the display, that is, closer to the bottom edge of the display.

    Robert Rossi - 返信

    This was an easy replacement didn’t need the guide.

    Sandy - 返信

  19. スパッジャーの先端を使って、両方のAirPortアンテナコネクタをAirPortボード上のソケットから引き抜きます。 AirPortボードからソケットにダメージを与えないようにご注意ください。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、両方のAirPortアンテナコネクタをAirPortボード上のソケットから引き抜きます。

    • AirPortボードからソケットにダメージを与えないようにご注意ください。

    a connector got separated from the wire..what now??

    undauntedmg - 返信

  20. AirPortカードをAirPortアンテナ付近のディスプレイに固定している3 mmプラスネジを1本外します。
    • AirPortカードをAirPortアンテナ付近のディスプレイに固定している3 mmプラスネジを1本外します。

  21. ディスプレイにカメラケーブルのリテイナーを固定している3.3 mmプラスネジを1本外します。
    • ディスプレイにカメラケーブルのリテイナーを固定している3.3 mmプラスネジを1本外します。

    this is on the other side, watch the glass of the display below

    Carl Gennheimer - 返信

    Thank you! I thought the photo was looking at the left hand side.

    Andrew Wainwright - 返信

  22. 画像のようにディスプレイの方向を変えて、黒色のプラスチックカメラケーブルのリテイナーをディスプレイの右側に向けて引っ張ります。 カメラケーブルのリテイナーを取り出します。
    • 画像のようにディスプレイの方向を変えて、黒色のプラスチックカメラケーブルのリテイナーをディスプレイの右側に向けて引っ張ります。

    • カメラケーブルのリテイナーを取り出します。

    In the second picture for this step the U notches on the wifi connector are facing out when in the socket, and this is quite misleading. Putting them in like this will not work and could potentially cause some serious damage to wifi card or motherboard. Be wary of this guide, and make sure you take pictures of how things are before you touch them.

    acurns1 - 返信

  23. カメラケーブルのコネクタをディスプレイの右側に向けてゆっくりと引っ張り、AirPortカード上のソケットから引き抜きます。
    • カメラケーブルのコネクタをディスプレイの右側に向けてゆっくりと引っ張り、AirPortカード上のソケットから引き抜きます。

    • AirPortケーブルを再装着する際は、ケーブル先端の片一方上にあるU字型の凹みが目で見えない位置(カード側)にあるか確認してください。ケーブルが正しく装着できていない場合は、基板にダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    I fried both of my Airport cards, couldn't figure out why, and came back here and read about these little U-shaped notches. I had to bring the computer into my office to compare both sides of this cable. I would be nice to make sure that this tid bit of information is very noticeable for those who are following along.

    wcking - 返信

    Yea, I fried two motherboards before I came back here and re-read that the U notches must face the airport card.

    wcking -

    A super closeup photo of these notches would very helpful.

    Peter Mayo - 返信

    If the note in this step can be updated to more accurately describe why the notches must be visible, that would be most helpful.

    Perhaps written as per “The camera cable (ie the AirPort cable) whilst it can fit in both ways, you WILL cause damage to either the card, the motherboard or both if the orientation is not correct.

    The cable MUST be installed so that the notches on one side of the cable are not visible”

    Charlie Nancarrow - 返信

    Er, how sure is everyone about the directionality here? In the various images in this tutorial the connector appears with the U notches both facing and away. Perhaps the images reflect the learning process, but maybe the dot on the cable is key? One thing I can confirm is that it does matter - the cable connectivity is not symmetric.

    Robert Rossi - 返信

    Well, I don't yet know what damage I did to my logic board, but the instructions here are correct, at least for the system I am working with: if installed the other way around (with the U notches facing away from the connector), the system will turn on but when you try to shut it off (power button, shutdown option in OS) it will immediately turn back on. Only a long-press on the power button will shut the system down such that it stays off.

    Robert Rossi - 返信

  24. AirPortカード横と右側クラッチの蝶番を固定している残りの3 mmプラスネジを外します。
    • AirPortカード横と右側クラッチの蝶番を固定している残りの3 mmプラスネジを外します。

    This photo can be slightly misleading if you're not careful. It appears that unlike my cable, the pictured cable has the gray dot on both sides. In this photo you can see the 2 little sideways U notches that should be on the OTHER side. In photo 22 you can see that there are NO such notches as he is sliding the cable out of the connector.

    My gray dot is only on the underside (not visible when the cable is plugged in correctly. When I first took the cable out to replace my Airport board, I thought maybe it had been inserted the wrong way which will damage the motherboard. So the gray dots are not a good indicator, just look for the sideways U notches as indicated in the iFixit directions.

    madmaxmedia - 返信

  25. ヒートシンクからAirPortカードを引き抜いて、ディスプレイから取り出します。 新しいAirPortカードを装着する前に、表面上のサーマル素材はそのままで、ディスプレイフレーム上の小さなヒートシンクと並んでいるか確認してください。
    • ヒートシンクからAirPortカードを引き抜いて、ディスプレイから取り出します。

    • 新しいAirPortカードを装着する前に、表面上のサーマル素材はそのままで、ディスプレイフレーム上の小さなヒートシンクと並んでいるか確認してください。



69 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。



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Andrew Bookholt

522,465 ポイント



I'm sorry if this is a dumb question, but I'm new to the community. Where did you buy (a link would be amazing) the AirPort card for this specific laptop? Thanks.


Joshua Sarver - 返信

you can buy this from violetofficesupplies.co.uk

jocollins94 -

The Wifi from the macbook is working fine, but the bluetooth stop working a week ago. Tried everything software-related, think it is time to start looking at the hardware itself. Just to confirm, the airport card manages wifi AND bluetooth? Or bluetooth has a separate card/adapter? Thanks!

HomemmauBR - 返信

It's the second time, in 2 years, I need to replace this card. Does anyone know what cause this to be demaged?

coelhofb - 返信

Replacing mine didn't even fix it.

It's a load of crap but I think the problem is so rare that Apple doesn't care.

Joshua -

Is there such an airport card AC replacement for 5Ghz band frequency compatible on MBP 13" mid 2010?

mikelphi - 返信


Andrew ...my salute to you. This just worked fine to fix my wifi hardware not installed problem on my Macbook pro (2010 mid). Thank you very much.



abhinay pachhapur - 返信

Hi Andrew, could my missing wifi and Bluetooth be a result of a possible mistake I might have made when removing the optical drive to remove a stuck disc. Looking at the camera cable removal and replacement in step 5 in particular?

Peter Mayo - 返信

I plugged in the airport connector backwards, I put it back the correct way, but know it says Wifi no hardware found, my Bluetooth nor wifi is detected and when I shut off my Mac it turns back on by itself. Did I fry the logic board or maybe I can just buy a new airport card?

DRFPV - 返信

Hi Andrew, relating to my earlier question regarding a possible mistake in step 5, I never found the so called small piece of hard plastic that prevents the connector from falling out so removed said connector by lifting and then pulling towards the optical drive.Could this have resulted in damage to the connectors? is so what do I need to replace? Your advice and expertise would be much appreciated. Regards.

Peter Mayo - 返信

hello I have a MBP mid 2010 and ive tried all types of solutions to fix my Bluetooth problems ex. iphone , speakers, etc.Well my question is that if it is possible to change the BT card or any improvement so I can be able to connect my iphone and such devices also it is a LMP: 2.1 (0x4) and is not handoff supported. I recently upgraded my mac, I bought a 16 GB (8GB + 8GB) ram memory, a 480 SSD, and a new battery. my mac is a potencial beast I use it for university works such as autocad civilcad wich are heavy programs and now everything works fast with no lags. I would really like to have a solution to upgrade my bBluetoothproblems. please help. greeting from PERU

juanderola1899 - 返信

Airport cards of this year are pretty universal. Bought a replacement from a 2010 15 inch macbook pro and it still works just fine.

Willie Narvaez - 返信

wow. I have done this. You’re not kidding it’s difficult! Hope the damned thing works now! I found the Torxes in step 10 to be 8s and a pice of plastic concealing the said torxes on the RHS. Otherwise a great guide! Thank you very much!

Don - 返信

Fortunately I am cannibalising a dead Mac to get a live one working properly - so I could practice on the dead one first.

Don - 返信



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