1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換, 底ケース: 手順 1、 1の画像 1
    • MacBook Pro 13インチ Unibodyに留められた底ケースから次のネジを10本外します。

    • 3 mmプラスネジー7本

    • 13.5 mmプラスネジー3本

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge - 返信

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover - 返信

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh - 返信

    I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

    Cary B - 返信

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 2、 1の画像 1
    • 取付台タブを外すため、底ケースをわずかに持ち上げて、デバイス本体の背中側に向けて押します。

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike - 返信

    Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

    Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

    Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

    Am I allowed to cry?

    Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.


    kath myers - 返信


    That was a brilliant read.

    Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

    Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.


    Cary B -

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換, バッテリー: 手順 3、 1の画像 1
    • 作業前の注意点として、放電を防ぐためロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外してください。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターを持ち上げます。


    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane - 返信

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung - 返信

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond - 返信

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換, ディスプレイ: 手順 4、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換, ディスプレイ: 手順 4、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換, ディスプレイ: 手順 4、 3の画像 3
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、右側スピーカーケーブルコネクター/サブウーファーをロジックボード上のソケットから外して持ち上げます。

    • 画像に示したようにコネクターの下から持ち上げてください。ソケット自体に接触しないでください。ロジックボードからソケットをアクシデントで外してしまうことがあります。

    Please Be Carefully With This Step, Because I Had To Resolder It Back To The Logic Board. But There Is A Black Foam Piece Over The Cable You Have To Pry Up, Lift The Foam Piece And Then Try To CAREFULLY Pry Cable Connector

    BWilliams842 - 返信

  5. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 5、 1の画像 1
    • カメラケーブルの先端をまっすぐにソケットから引いて接続を外します。

    • 小さなハードプラスチップのパーツがロジックボードに取り付けられており、ソケットからカメラケーブルが落ちるのを防いでいます。このパーツをまず取り除いてから作業を進めてください。コネクターにダメージを与えてしまいます。

    • ロジックボードの表面と並行してコネクターを光学ドライブ側に向けて引っ張ります。ソケットからまっすぐ上に引っ張らないでください。

    Be careful to the piece of plastic that prevents camera cable failing out its socket! Do not force connector! Look at plastic before attempting to remove connector Plastic is partially covered by cdrom flat connector at right of camera cable connector

    Silvio - 返信

    This step is unnecessarily tricky. I’ve tried to make it better by adding images highlighting the plastic stopper thingy and showing a clear arrow of the direction the cable should be pulled.

    However, simply pulling the cable may not be enough to remove it. It sure wasn’t for me. I think there ought to be a close-up of the two little nubbins on the sides of the plug which one uses to wiggle it loose from the connector by gently prying with a tiny flathead screwdriver. I didn’t add that tip because (a) it would have made the instructions longer, (b) I didn’t think to take a photo of it, and (c) using a screwdriver carelessly next to the logic board could scratch or break components on the motherboard. A guitar pick or very small spudger might work.

    hackerb9 - 返信

    @hackerb9 Thanks for your edits and comments! I took some additional shots and tried to clean this up a little for everyone. There should be a lot less confusion now. Interestingly, neither of the two MacBook Pros used for these guides had the plastic retainer piece you folks mentioned, but I left that image in a link so everyone can still see what it looks like if needed.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thanks for incorporating some of my edits and for taking new photos.

    Are you the one who took the original photographs? If so, you did originally have the hard plastic retainer as it was in those photos, just obscured by your thumbnail. The glue on the retainer allows it to shift a bit, so it's possible you took out the cable and knocked off the retainer without noticing it.

    Your two frame animation of pulling out the plug is helpful to show the proper direction. Given the number of people who have destroyed their MacBooks from this procedure, I think we should do even better. The instruction would be clearer if it said, “Disconnect the camera cable by sliding it horizontally out of its socket.”

    Also, if you can post a link to a picture without fingers in the shot, I will add an arrow showing the proper direction. (I would have added it to the original, but visually it would have gone through your fingers.)

    hackerb9 - 返信

    P.s. this isn't as important, but where did you hear the tip about the hairdryer? I'd leave that out as firmly peeling it up works fine.

    hackerb9 -

    Negative, I’m not the original photographer. You’re right, I do see the retainer in some of the previous photos, although it wasn’t in any of the images for this particular step. May have been an oversight on the part of the original author! So I’m glad you caught it. I updated the verbiage as you requested. Don’t worry about adding arrows—at this point, if someone ignores both the images and the multiple warnings in the text, that’s no longer a fault with the guide. The heat/hairdryer tip is standard practice for anything that’s secured with adhesive—I hardly ever work on a MacBook of any vintage without using a heat gun at least a couple times. It may not be strictly necessary, but the result is much cleaner and it reduces the risk of accident.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 6、 1の画像 1
    • 光学ドライブの回路からカメラデータケーブルを巻き戻します。

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 7、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 7、 2の画像 2
    • 上部ケースの右側スピーカーとカメラデータケーブルを留めている次のネジを外します。

    • 8 mmプラスネジー2本

    • 4mm プラスネジー1本

    • 8 mmプラスネジのうち1本はカメラケーブルのグランドループの中に留められています。

    • サブウーファーの下からカメラのケーブルブラケットをスライドしてコンピューターから取り出します。

  8. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 8、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 8、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 8、 3の画像 3
    • ディスプレイデーターケーブルロックに留められているプラスチックプルタブを掴み、コンピューターの DC-in側に向けて巻きます。

    • ディスプレイデーターケーブルコネクターをソケットからまっすぐ引き離します。

    • コネクターをソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げるのではなく手前に引いてください。

    Well, my display ended up looking like this after the repair:


    As you can see, there was a light/dark banded pattern along the bottom of the screen, corresponding to the LCD's backlight. In my case it was also accompanied by a constant high pitched whistling noise. I swear to anything that's holy, it was not coming from the fan or the speaker, but rather the motherboard itself.

    Anyway, both these problems went away when I disconnected and reconnected the connector at this stage. I'm saying this on the off chance it helps someone else.

    Jonty Levine - 返信

    It's not to clear but there is a piece of spring steel that rotates away from the main (circuit board side) of the connector....this piece sort of hugs the parameter of the screen cable locking it to the circuit board...both arms wrapped around your brother....looking closely (10x magnifier) at this cable one of the gold connections is slightly oxidized---my display arbitrarily flickers and this symptom is lessened as the temperature increases...I suspect this is the cuase of the screen flashing on/off

    brian62 - 返信

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 9、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 9、 2の画像 2
    • 上部ケースに留められたディスプレイデータケーブルブラケットから次のネジを2本外します。

    • 7 mmプラスネジー1本

    • 5 mmプラスネジー1本

    • 上部ケースからディスプレイデータケーブルのブラケットを持ち上げます。

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 10、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 10、 2の画像 2
    • 上部ケースに留められた2つのディスプレイブラケットから 6.5 mm外付けトルクスネジを2本ずつ(計4本)を外します。

    Hey folks, regarding the screw/driver sizes: there are separate guides for the Mid 2010 model with the T8 screws. Always use the correct guide for your model to avoid confusion, stripped screws, etc. Hope this helps!

    Jeff Suovanen - 返信

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 11、 1の画像 1
    • MacBook 本体を開きます。ディスプレイが上部ケースに対して直角になるように開いてください。

    • 画像に示したようにMacBookをテーブルに対して垂直に立てます。

    • 左手でディスプレイと上部ケース両方を持ちながら、下部ディスプレイのブラケットから残りの6.5 mm トルクスネジを外します。

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 12、 1の画像 1
    • ディスプレイと上部ケースを同時に左手で押さえてください。手で固定せずに作業をするとディスプレイ/上部ケースが落ちて外れてしまい、各コンポーネントにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    • 上部ケースに留めれらたディスプレイから最後の残りの6 mm T6トルクスネジを外します。

    Removing the screen assembly this way, with the computer standing on edge, is needlessly risky and difficult. By the 5th or 6th time I did this procedure (of perhaps a hundred), it dawned on me that there’s a way, way easier method for the whole lid removal job: 1. After removing the bottom cover and disconnecting power, hang the open laptop, keyboard down, facing away, over the edge of your work table with the lid assembly hanging down, monitor facing toward the table and pushed against the table edge. (If you’re klutzy, tape the main body to the table so it can’t slide around.) 2. With the unit positioned this way, you can easily disconnect the various cables & remove the 6 hinge screws. Now the lid assembly will just be hanging, easy to lift away from the main body without difficulty or danger. 3. Reverse this to put it back together.

    clinton - 返信

    Nice tip, Clinton! I’ll have to try that next time. Do you have photos of how it is done so this guide can be updated?

    hackerb9 -

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 13、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 13、 2の画像 2
    • 右手で上部ケースを持ち、ディスプレイの上部に向けてわずかにずらしながら押し出します。すると上部ディスプレイブラケットから上部ケースの先端が外れます。

    • ディスプレイを上部ケースから少しずらして外します。

  14. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 14、 1の画像 1
    • ブラケットやケーブルが絡まないように気をつけながら、上部ケースからディスプレイを持ち上げて外します。

    Re-assembly hint: Laying the base, keyboard down, on a table top with the hinge side over the edge about 1/2" toward you is a more stable position for re-assembly than trying to do this up on its edge. This has the added benefit of being able to reinsert the torn screws vertically.

    Pete H - 返信

    May be in the wrong place but then please direct me. At this step, can I just take off the upper half (meaning the screen, LCD, and top housing shell in one) and simply replace it with another upper half of the same edition???

    cmackay13stmarys - 返信

    Yes, you can. Thanks what I'm doing now. :)

    Mike Mayaka -

  15. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換, クラッチカバー: 手順 15、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換, クラッチカバー: 手順 15、 2の画像 2
    • 画像にあるようにクラッチカバーを手に取り、ディスプレイの右側に向けてスライドします。

    • 約0.5cmほどスライドしたら止めます。これ以上無理やりスライドしないでください。

    i've found this impossible to get back on correctly.

    i cant get the plastic to slide back that 1/4" it needs to fit properly

    Does anyone know any tricks? :(

    Ashley Berthon - 返信

    imagine the monitor upside down and the screen facing away from you. You have to put the cover over to the right of where it goes about an inch or 2 and it will go in, then, slide it left to lock it into place

    stdonato - 返信

    I was replacing a clutch cover that had cracked into a few pieces. I found the replacement didn’t slide to the left on installation. On further investigation I found the tabs from the old one were broken off inside where the cover slides. Once they were removed the install wen much better.

    I found my replacement cover on Amazon.ca in case someone needs a Canadian source.

    Dean Landry - 返信

  16. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 16、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 16、 2の画像 2
    • ゆっくりとクラッチカバーを長辺側で前後に揺らしながら、ディスプレイから引き離します。

    • クラッチカバーの長辺側に沿ってこの動作を行い、ディスプレイに取り付けるフレームワークから持ち上げることできれば作業を止めてください。

  17. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 17、 1の画像 1
    • ディスプレイからクラッチカバーを取り出します。

    The flat face goes on the bottom edge of the display. The display and wifi cables must be routed below the hinges in the display, that is, closer to the bottom edge of the display.

    Robert Rossi - 返信

  18. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換, AirPort コネクタ: 手順 18、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換, AirPort コネクタ: 手順 18、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、両方のAirPortアンテナコネクタをAirPortボード上のソケットから引き抜きます。

    • AirPortボードからソケットにダメージを与えないようにご注意ください。

  19. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換, AirPortアンテナ: 手順 19、 1の画像 1
    • アンテナブラケットをディスプレイに固定している3 mmプラスネジを4本外します。

  20. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 AirPortアンテナの交換: 手順 20、 1の画像 1
    • アンテナコネクタが絡まないように注意しながら、AirPortアンテナをディスプレイから取り出します。



36 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。


en jp


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Andrew Bookholt

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3 件のコメント

I have replaced both the antenna and the card, and wi-fi now works! Definitely not for beginners, though. With an unknown wi-fi problem, I decided to replace both - taking the machine apart again would have severely tested my patience!

Don - 返信

By the way, Andrew, thanks for the clear instructions and the pitfall warnings. They helped a lot!

Don - 返信

How can i translate this guide to Portuguese? when i click in "options" then "translate" Portuguese is non accessible.

Wellington Gibson - 返信



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