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はじめに

消耗して騒音のでるファンを交換するにはこのガイドをご利用ください。

  1. MacBook Pro 13インチ Unibodyに留められた底ケースから次のネジを10本外します。
    • MacBook Pro 13インチ Unibodyに留められた底ケースから次のネジを10本外します。

    • 3 mmプラスネジー7本

    • 13.5 mmプラスネジー3本

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge - 返信

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover - 返信

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh - 返信

  2. 取付台タブを外すため、底ケースをわずかに持ち上げて、デバイス本体の背中側に向けて押します。
    • 取付台タブを外すため、底ケースをわずかに持ち上げて、デバイス本体の背中側に向けて押します。

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike - 返信

  3. 作業前の注意点として、放電を防ぐためロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外してください。
    • 作業前の注意点として、放電を防ぐためロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外してください。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターを持ち上げます。

    gansodesoyaからの引用:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane - 返信

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung - 返信

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond - 返信

  4. ファンコネクタを基板上のソケットからファンコネクタを引き抜きます。 コネクタの接続を外すには、ファンケーブルのワイヤ下からスパッジャーでツイストしながら作業をすると上手くいきます。 ファンのソケットとファンのコネクタは2番目、3番目の画像で確認できます。スパッジャーを使ってファンのコネクタをまっすぐソケットから引き抜く際に、基板に付いているプラスチックのファンソケットを壊さないようご注意ください。基板のレイアウトは2番目の画像で確認できますが、お手元のデバイスのデザインと若干異なることがあるかもしれません。ファンソケットは同じはずです。
    • ファンコネクタを基板上のソケットからファンコネクタを引き抜きます。

    • コネクタの接続を外すには、ファンケーブルのワイヤ下からスパッジャーでツイストしながら作業をすると上手くいきます。

    • ファンのソケットとファンのコネクタは2番目、3番目の画像で確認できます。スパッジャーを使ってファンのコネクタをまっすぐソケットから引き抜く際に、基板に付いているプラスチックのファンソケットを壊さないようご注意ください。基板のレイアウトは2番目の画像で確認できますが、お手元のデバイスのデザインと若干異なることがあるかもしれません。ファンソケットは同じはずです。

    The image is very misleading. This is why many people are breaking their connectors. Please correct this and make it VERY clear that one has to put the spudger straight behind the cables, NOT behind the connector, as shown in the pic.

    Giunia - 返信

    Thankfully there is a helpful guide in the comments on this post for fixing the socket in the likely event that you snap the sucker clean off like I did:

    I popped off the fan connection from the logic board...Fix?

    agoodcourage - 返信

    As Giunia said I too just broke the connector only because the photo shows to slide a spudger between the connector socket and the motherboard. I am now out of my only computer. This is VERY frustrating.

    Nha1234 - 返信

  5. 次の3本のネジを外します。
    • 次の3本のネジを外します。

    • 7 mm T6 トルクスネジー1本

    • 5.4 mm T6トルクスネジー2本

  6. 上部ケースからファンを取り出します。
    • 上部ケースからファンを取り出します。

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

123 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

en jp

100%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! あなたも貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Walter Galan

660,000 ポイント

1,203のガイドは作成済み

3 件のコメント

Thanks Walter Galan for this guide its my first repair using fixit.

So I noticed MacBook Pro’s Fan is not working leaving the equipment very hot.

I bought a new part in Ifixit and repair my laptop.

The trickiest part is removing the motherboard connector. I did this using spudger tool with success but spend some time with careful.

Just I noticed again before install new part that is noising when spinning. So I force a little the the metal case to put away propellers that was contacting with her.

Another suggestion is clean fan before with a hair dryer for example, same to the place where will put the new fan.

So repair made with sucess!!!

wilsonwistuba - 返信

The repair was quick and simple with the use of an iFixit toolkit that I conveniently already had. The fan works well. Thank you to Walter Galan for this easy-to-follow guide and thank you to the guys at the iFixit store for the speedy shipment.

Luke Tomaneng - 返信

Image #4 is very misleading. This is why many people are breaking their connectors. Please correct this and make it VERY clear that one has to put the spudger straight behind the cables, NOT behind the connector, as shown in the pic.

Giunia - 返信

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