ラップトップに電源が入りませんか?DC-In Boardを交換しましょう。

  1. MacBook Pro 13インチ Unibodyに留められた底ケースから次のネジを10本外します。
    • MacBook Pro 13インチ Unibodyに留められた底ケースから次のネジを10本外します。

    • 3 mmプラスネジー7本

    • 13.5 mmプラスネジー3本

    It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.

    scott523 - 返信

    The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!

    iphonetechtips -

    A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to "cam out" (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point--not the lousy fake "precision" screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake "precision" screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_sc...: "Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as "Phillips #00" or "Torx T5." These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a "Size 8" dress."

    In other words, the quality of many "precision" screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake "precision" Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a "precision screwdriver", it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    One of the best manufacturers of precision screwdrivers is Wiha (http://www.wihatools.com/tech-tools/prec... cost more, but they're worth it. Or buy screwdrivers from iFixit, who seem to be selling JIS screwdrivers.

    Another article with some good info on screw and screwdriver types:


    Also keep in mind that some screws are tougher to remove and reinstall because they have a thread-locking compound on them, which is usually blue.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Phillips #00 is the correct screwdriver for the lower case. Maybe the one you have is worn or badly made.

    David Fear -

    Perfect man!Many thanks!:)

    wertaerte - 返信

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    twisk - 返信

    thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.

    BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.

    xitxit2 -

    i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big

    plins718 - 返信

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover - 返信

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone: http://www.visibone.com/colorblind/

    Eric Sorenson - 返信

    Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.

    danzeitlin -

    I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.

    jonathanmorgan - 返信

    I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.

    john - 返信

    Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?

    Igor - 返信

    The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.

    Some info here:


    "1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"

    "*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."

    Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.

    Winston -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh - 返信

    I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.

    tarriojuan - 返信

    Had no idea they were so expensive.

    Franklin - 返信

    Phillips #00 is the right tool for all the steps (Except the 4 HD T6 screws). Maybe there is dirt in the notch.

    Luis Soto - 返信

    There is any chance to use the Toshiba MQ01ABD 1 TB 2.5" Internal Hard Drive MQ01ABD100 , it has7200 rpm , shuold it work?

    Luis - 返信

    If you are running OS X 10.11.2 or newer, battery provided by iFixIt will not work. I've already tried 2 batteries from iFixIt and neither worked. iFixIt needs to come clean on this unfortunate situation. I've already put 8 hours into this futile effort when it should have taken me 45 minutes.

    gkofga - 返信

    What was your solution? I'm using 10.11.3 OS X. I may need a battery replacement very soon too.

    John Doe -

    <i>The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.</I>

    I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are <b>NOT</b> the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the "Give the author +30 points" button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore. My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together. :-)

    THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added.

    Joseph King - 返信

    It would be nice to remind fixers which length screws go back in which holes, in case they get mixed up...

    Mike - 返信

    Wonderful guide

    Freda - 返信

  2. 取付台タブを外すため、底ケースをわずかに持ち上げて、デバイス本体の背中側に向けて押します。
    • 取付台タブを外すため、底ケースをわずかに持ち上げて、デバイス本体の背中側に向けて押します。

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike - 返信

  3. 作業前の注意点として、放電を防ぐためロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外してください。
    • 作業前の注意点として、放電を防ぐためロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外してください。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターを持ち上げます。

    why is step 3 necessary?

    gansodesoya - 返信


    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane - 返信


    why is step 3 necessary?

    Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.

    amiller770 - 返信

    I'm thinking of ordering the spudger. I was thinking of order the heavy duty spudger... or should I just order the normal. Will either of the spudgers work for this DIY?

    shockaaa - 返信

    Once you have a set of spudgers, you will wonder how you ever went without them. :-)

    Brian -

    $@$@. Don't use an non-isolated screwdriver for this. I just shorted-out my battery :(

    Lukas Besch - 返信

    You are absolutely right, never use a screwdriver on the logic board or any connector! Delicate use of fingernails or a credit card will get you through most situations if you lack a spudger.

    Logan Bean -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung - 返信

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    Would it not be advisable to drain the battery completely before attempting to repair, if you want to be sure you don't get a spark when removing the battery connector?


    bduault - 返信

    Disconnecting the battery connector is not that different from simply unplugging a battery from an older model MacBook with a removable battery. You're not trying to protect yourself from a "spark", but the internal circuitry when taking the MacBook apart.

    amiller770 -

    I neglected step 3 and now my computer won't turn on. Could I have shorted out my logic board?

    Plamen - 返信

    I had the same problem , my macbook doesn't switch on working

    marioluiggi -

    A very easy and fast update indeed! Using this guide and the tools indicated on top I replaced the two RAM cards (2GB each) with two 8GB RAM cards from OWC for a total of 16GB RAM in my MBP Middle 2010 Core 2 Duo (Officially not supported according to Apple).


    Make sure you select RAM with these specs: 16GB DDR3 PC8500 1066MHz Kit (8GBx2)


    Apps open much faster and I can run a virtual machine at a decent speed.

    Luis Soto - 返信

    Removing the battery is not required, but in some instances can make installing ram much easier. If you plan on upgrading from 4GB (2X 2GB) to 8GB (2X 4GB) Removing the battery would be better. There are two levels of ram. If you are replacing both levels, then remove the battery. If you are just replacing the top, dont bother. Removing the battery for very long or even at all (depending on the CMOS battery age and health) could possibly reset settings, the clock, saved wifi passwords, and more.

    Everett Whiteman - 返信

    It is beneficial to remove the battery at this stage.

    Knox Karima - 返信

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond - 返信

    Guys I just used my index finger nail. It’s the most useful nail to let grow a little bit for this type of procedure. Came off pretty easy when using both my right hand index and left hand index together to lift the plug up out. Found some plastic folded it and place it right over the socket so the plug would go back in and now the plug holds the plastic in place so I can focus on the main work.

    clsmithj - 返信

  4. スパッジャーを使ってファンコネクターをまっすぐロジックボードから持ち上げて取り出します。 スパッジャーをファンケーブルワイヤの下から軸方向にひねって使うとコネクターから外しやすいです。 ファンのソケットとファンのコネクターは2番目と3番目の画像で確認できます。スパッジャーを使ってソケットからファンコネクターをまっすぐ持ち上げるため、プラスチックのファンソケットを壊さないようにご注意ください。ロジックボードのレイアウトは2番目の画像に表示していますが、お持ちのデバイスと比べると若干異なる可能性があります。ファンソケットの位置は同一のはずです。
    • スパッジャーを使ってファンコネクターをまっすぐロジックボードから持ち上げて取り出します。

    • スパッジャーをファンケーブルワイヤの下から軸方向にひねって使うとコネクターから外しやすいです。

    • ファンのソケットとファンのコネクターは2番目と3番目の画像で確認できます。スパッジャーを使ってソケットからファンコネクターをまっすぐ持ち上げるため、プラスチックのファンソケットを壊さないようにご注意ください。ロジックボードのレイアウトは2番目の画像に表示していますが、お持ちのデバイスと比べると若干異なる可能性があります。ファンソケットの位置は同一のはずです。

    The fan plug snapped off right away without applying much pressure so the best angle of attack isn't exactly where the diagram shows. Anyone know how to reattach this piece?

    Also worth noting I have the right screwdrivers and the screws inside this thing are really soft.

    Rpo - 返信

    I broke the socket too.. Any one know how to fix this??

    laika117 -

    Mine broke off too :(

    john - 返信

    I broke mine off too. No one knows if it can be reattached? Glue? Tape? Anything?

    philip shiang ho - 返信

    Mine broke, too. None of the repair shops in my area do soldering, so I may be SOL. I spilled water on my laptop and a bunch of keys shorted out. I read online from numerous sources that replacing the keyboard yourself isn't hard, so I figured i'd try it. I am majorly disappointed. Suggestion for iFixit: upload a video of someone disconnecting the fan cable connector. Clearly Apple didn't design it to be easy to remove, and your description is inadequate, given how many people have broken theirs.

    emmaxfeldman - 返信

    I just soldered it back on. . . I tried to clean the pads with braid first, but it didn't do much so I don't think that's necessary. I first supper-glued it in place with the pins on the pads and then I put a tiny dab of solder on each pin/pad. Plugged in the fan and i works!

    Ron Hudson - 返信

    Just the answer I was looking for Ron! Awesome work buddy!

    lucasjmenzie -

  5. 上部ケースとファンに固定された次のネジを3本外します。
    • 上部ケースとファンに固定された次のネジを3本外します。

    • 6.5 mmプラスネジー1本

    • 5.5 mmプラスネジー1本

    • 4.5 mmプラスネジー1本

    I found it mostly unnecessary to remove the fan and therefore all of the fan screws in this step. Only the two on the left hand side of the fan actually need to be removed. I also found it extremely helpful, after pulling logic boards several times, to remove the speaker screws at this time. The heat sink and the speaker interfere with each other when you are later trying to remove and then install the logic board. The longer screw goes on end of the speaker assembly that is closest to the fan, and the shorter one goes on the end closest to the dvd slot.

    stevesontheroad - 返信

    This article is about replacing the fan. Therefore you have to unplug and remove the old one.

    John Morley -

    The step is referenced in the Left Speaker replacement as well as for the Heat Sink replacement. So, I guess a new step may help with this guide. Either way, I couldn’t remove the right screw on the fan. Any idea which driver to use?

    eswarjj -

    If you are removing the logic board for any other reason than replacing it, or if your replacement logic board came with a fan installed, DO NOT REMOVE THE FAN. It is not necessary for the removal of the logic board. For removal with the fan attached, only remove the two screws on the left hand side of the fan, and leave the cable attached. I see here that too many people have broken the fan cable, and it is too easy to do.

    stevesontheroad - 返信

    Ce fut difficile de mon côté d'ôter les vis, il a fallu que j'utilise un tournevis de précision plus solide et que je l'entoure d'un élastique pour avoir plus de poigne, mais j'y suis arrivée.

    WomanTECH - 返信

    Which screwdriver do I need to remove the 4.5mm screw on the right of the fan? I tried a few and they seem to be damaging the screw (almost fit). So, I gave up. The driver set I have do not have proper markings.

    eswarjj - 返信

  6. 上部ケースからファンを取り出します。
    • 上部ケースからファンを取り出します。

  7. ディスプレイデータケーブルのロックに固定されているプラスチックのプルタブを手に取り、デバイスのDC-in側に向けて回転させます。 ディスプレイデータケーブルコネクタをソケットから、デバイスのDC-in側に向けて引き抜きます。 ディスプレイデータケーブルコネクタをソケットから、デバイスのDC-in側に向けて引き抜きます。
    • ディスプレイデータケーブルのロックに固定されているプラスチックのプルタブを手に取り、デバイスのDC-in側に向けて回転させます。

    • ディスプレイデータケーブルコネクタをソケットから、デバイスのDC-in側に向けて引き抜きます。

    I pulled out the cable and it kind of broke off, now the screen is black when i turn it on but it still makes the chime. How do i fix this?

    robertjriordan1 - 返信

    If the cable broke, you can replace it for around $50ish. If the terminal broke off, I am afraid your logic board needs to be fixed(unlikely) or replaced.

    Jurgen - 返信

  8. ディスプレイデータケーブルのブラケットを上部ケースに固定している次の2本のネジを外します。 7 mmプラスネジー1本
    • ディスプレイデータケーブルのブラケットを上部ケースに固定している次の2本のネジを外します。

    • 7 mmプラスネジー1本

    • 5 mmプラスネジー1本

    • 上部ケースからディスプレイデータケーブルのブラケットを持ち上げます。

    Mine are Torx and got an extra clamp for the cable, just above the left screw

    Martin - 返信

    For some reason I stripped BOTH these screws! All the other screws came out without a problem!

    Johnson Sathaseevan - 返信

    If you only want to replace the DC-in board, stop here and GOTO 17 (and DO NOT 4 and 6).

    When the Logic board is loose, lift it up on the Harddrive end and shift slightly towards the HD, so that the USB connectors at the outside come free from under the case rim and the board can be lifted up a bit. Then there´s enough room to move the DC in board, pull the cable out with a pair of tweezers, wriggle it out from under the microphone cable and wriggle the new connector in. It can be pushed into the socket with tweezers or a small screwdriver. This worked perfect for me.

    Be careful not to bend the logic board, but otherwise I think there´s much less risk of messing anything up with all the connectors and bits and pieces that need to be loosened and fastened.

    Mike - 返信

  9. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板からサブウーファーと右側スピーカーのコネクタを引き上げます。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板からサブウーファーと右側スピーカーのコネクタを引き上げます。

    Ouch - broke off the connectors by pulling upwards. As it looks, i should have pulled to the optical drive instead :(

    Thorsten Iversen - 返信

    I accidentally dislodged the right speaker / subwoofer cable connector as well as the fan cable connector. I know for the fan cable connector there is a warning about how easy it is to dislodge, but there should be more pictures to describe exactly how to avoid doing so. I can live without the right speaker / subwoofer, but my logic board cannot survive long without a fan. I'm trying to see if I can find someone who will try to solder the cable connector back on, but no one in my area will, so I may need to send it out (a local repair shop owner recommended a guy he's used to fix iPad backlights.) I am probably SOL, though. A new logic board is quite pricey... Had I known that it was so difficult to replace the keyboard on your own, I would have paid the $200 for a local repair shop to fix it. I found iFixit helpful but ultimately misleading. I may end up having to get a new laptop altogether. How upsetting.

    emmaxfeldman - 返信

  10. この手順ではカメラケーブルの接続を外します。多くのデバイスでは小さな接着付きプラスチックのリテイナーが、コネクタを固定する目的で基板に付いています。ケーブルの接続を外す前に、このリテイナーを作業の邪魔にならない位置に外してください。
    • この手順ではカメラケーブルの接続を外します。多くのデバイスでは小さな接着付きプラスチックのリテイナーが、コネクタを固定する目的で基板に付いています。ケーブルの接続を外す前に、このリテイナーを作業の邪魔にならない位置に外してください。

    • カメラケーブルのコネクタを光学ドライブ側に向けて引き、基板から接続を外します。

    • このソケットはメタル製で簡単に曲がってしまいます。2つのパーツを合わせる前に基板上のソケットとコネクタの位置を揃えてください。

    There is a small piece just below this connector which is just an adhesive block to keep the connector from coming out. It is easiest to peel it up first with a fingernail or spudger then remove the cable. Likewise reinsert the cable before reapplying the adhesive safety stop.

    Justin Jett - 返信

    I couldn't reconnect this cable correctly, so my camera is not working anymore.

    It doesn't matter to me, I didn't used the camera that often...

    But the Ambient Light Sensor uses the camera to control keyboard lighting, so I wasn't able to see my keyboard in the dark anymore... :(

    If you have the same problem, after a couple of google hits I've found this app: https://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/22151/...

    Problem solved! YAY!

    PS: be careful because WIFI passes through this cable as well!!!!

    simbass - 返信

    Look at the photo intently. The connector is inserting not in parallel, but at a slight angle. The bottom corner of the connector is slightly ahead. It is important! Singular metod to insert it.

    Vladimir -

    i bought an used macbook and the connector in step 10 is missing. Where can i buy that connector? Someone can give me the link for an replacement part?

    alexanderfroch - 返信

    The connector in Step #10 is the microphone. iFixIt sells this part here: MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Microphone

    Is that the part you're looking for?

    (FYI You asked the question in the comments section for Step #4. That made it extra hard for me to find your post from the email I received because I follow this page.)

    jonathan12 - 返信

    After 8 years the adhesive on the pull were non existent. Tab pulled off before I got the connector off.

    Robert McGovern - 返信

    I also found reversing this step really hard to do. There is very little space to wiggle that connector in beside those tabs.

    Robert McGovern - 返信

    is it same of wifi and bluetooth?

    Mark - 返信

  11. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、光学ドライブ、ハードドライブとトラックパッドケーブルのコネクタを基板から引き抜きます。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、光学ドライブ、ハードドライブとトラックパッドケーブルのコネクタを基板から引き抜きます。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、光学ドライブ、ハードドライブとトラックパッドケーブルのコネクタを基板から引き抜きます。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、光学ドライブ、ハードドライブとトラックパッドケーブルのコネクタを基板から引き抜きます。

  12. 指の先かスパッジャーの先端を使って、キーボードリボンケーブル用のZIFソケット上のフラップを固定しているケーブルを引き上げます。 スパッジャーを使って、ソケットからキーボードリボンのケーブルをスライドします。 スパッジャーを使って、ソケットからキーボードリボンのケーブルをスライドします。
    • 指の先かスパッジャーの先端を使って、キーボードリボンケーブル用のZIFソケット上のフラップを固定しているケーブルを引き上げます。

    • スパッジャーを使って、ソケットからキーボードリボンのケーブルをスライドします。

    Flat cable ZIF socket manufacturers do not recommend using any tools to open or close the retaining flap due to its fragile nature. They recommend using only you fingers! It's in most socket datasheet instructions section.

    Leo Bodnar - 返信

    When reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable, make sure you push it in all the way (two plastic tools are helpful - one to push it down flat, the other to coax it all the way in). For 3 days after replacing a top case, my MacBook Pro 13" wouldn't start up. I thought the main logic board was fried too. However, reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable again, this time perhaps 1mm farther in, and it started up again! I did the same for the "keyboard backlight ribbon cable" (i.e. reinserted it just to make sure). Really not sure which completed the circuit so is would start, but I suspect the keyboard ribbon cable.

    amiller770 - 返信


    When reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable, make sure you push it in all the way (two plastic tools are helpful - one to push it down flat, the other to coax it all the way in).

    I usually use a piece of sticky transparent office tape and stick it over the flat cable a bit further away from the mating part then pull on it. There is no better way to force the flat cable into a stiff connector without damaging the fragile cable.

    Leo Bodnar - 返信

    My MBP was dead after replacing DC board too. I reseated the keyboard ribbon several times and it's finally working!!!!

    John Weeks - 返信

    As others have stated, if the keyboard ribbon cable isn't fully inserted the MBP will not power on. Leo Bodnar's recommendation to use a piece of transparent office tape did the trick for me. Many thanks Leo!

    Matthew Rankin - 返信

  13. キーボードのバックライト用リボンケーブルのソケットから黒色のテープに着いている小サイズのストリップを剥がします。
    • キーボードのバックライト用リボンケーブルのソケットから黒色のテープに着いている小サイズのストリップを剥がします。

  14. スパッジャーの先端を使って、キーボードのバックライト用リボンケーブル用のZIFソケット上のフラップを固定しているケーブルを引き抜きます。 スパッジャーを使って、ソケットからキーボードバックライト用のリボンケーブルをスライドします。 スパッジャーを使って、ソケットからキーボードバックライト用のリボンケーブルをスライドします。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、キーボードのバックライト用リボンケーブル用のZIFソケット上のフラップを固定しているケーブルを引き抜きます。

    • スパッジャーを使って、ソケットからキーボードバックライト用のリボンケーブルをスライドします。

  15. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板からバッテリーのインディケーターケーブル用のコネクターの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板からバッテリーのインディケーターケーブル用のコネクターの接続を外します。

  16. スパッジャーの先端を使って、上部ケースに付けられた接着剤からマイクを取り出します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、上部ケースに付けられた接着剤からマイクを取り出します。

    1. You have to unscrew one metal detail to get hold of microphone. That is missing.

    2. This step coulf also be extended with larger image where it's clear how to grab microphone.

    denyspopov - 返信

  17. 次のネジを外します。
    • 次のネジを外します。

    • 3.1 mmプラスネジー5本

    • 3.9 mmプラスネジー2本

    • DC~inボードから7 mmプラスネジー2本

  18. バッテリーと上部ケースを固定している次のトライポイントネジを外します。 5.5 mmトライポイントネジー1本
    • バッテリーと上部ケースを固定している次のトライポイントネジを外します。

    • 5.5 mmトライポイントネジー1本

    • 13.5 mmトライポイントネジー1本

    • 上部ケースからバッテリーを持ち上げます。

    I managed to get the logicboard free without removing the battery. Carefully lift the left side of the board and wriggle it away from the ports. Only try this when you have no tri-slotted screwdriver like myself.

    Kater - 返信

  19. ポートが上部ケースの端から外れるまで、基板を左側端から持ち上げます。 上部ケース側から基板を引き離して取り出します。DC-inボードに絡まないようご注意ください。
    • ポートが上部ケースの端から外れるまで、基板を左側端から持ち上げます。

    • 上部ケース側から基板を引き離して取り出します。DC-inボードに絡まないようご注意ください。

    • マイクアセンブリの壊れやすいコネクタプラグを引き裂かないようご注意ください。

    When putting the logic board back in place, it's easier to angle the mic down in it's place as you are placing the board in, rather than after the board is seated.

    amiller770 - 返信

    Please use the right and of good quality screwdrivers everyone!

    I officially messed up all the screws and now I can't get further!


    Lusfn shsogh - 返信

    maybe i missed it, but between step 19 and 20 should be heat sink removal. Just remove the four spring-loaded phillips head screws and remove the heatsink.

    hdh607 - 返信

    Lusfn shsoghからの引用:

    Please use the right and of good quality screwdrivers everyone!

    I officially messed up all the screws and now I can't get further!


    I had a tough time getting one of the battery screws out - the tri-slotted ones (who ever heard of tri-slotted screws?!?) and stripped one of them. I covered the rest of the logic board carefully and cut a new slot in the screw head with a dremel - VERY carefully. worked like a charm.

    hdh607 - 返信

    When i pulled mine up, it was stuck to the protective sheet guarding the keyboard and it ripped on the way up

    Stabs Anderson - 返信

  20. 基板上のソケットからDC-In Boardのコネクタを引っ張り、DC-In Boardの接続を外します。
    • 基板上のソケットからDC-In Boardのコネクタを引っ張り、DC-In Boardの接続を外します。

    Nice tutorial, I went to ace and they had The IFIXIT 64 bit Driver Kit for $23.99. great quality designed for electronic (computer, iPhone ). Make sure the part you buy is exactly the same part number of what you are replacing . The supplier sent me the wrong part as they said it was for the mid 2010 Mac. An the mid 2010 MacBook Pro is smaller.

    kelto1 - 返信



81 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。



Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! あなたも貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Walter Galan

606,191 ポイント


Hi, my macbook pro has a problem with the charging, i've already change the DC-In Board, because i thought that was the main problem and it works fine, the battery works perfect (i tested in another mac) the charger works fine (the same than the battery) and the problem is still there. I went to the mac store (México) and they told me "we have to change the motherboard and it will cost $14000 mxn (about $1100 dls)" I don't have the money to do that. do i have really change the the motherboard? there is no other clue to fix this? Thanks for the tutorial it's very well explained.

Tourner vb - 返信

My Mac needs an ac/plug in order to turn it on! Hate to spend $$$ at Apple retailers! Anyone know any place to get one???

vpkc15 - 返信

yyou can get one starting at eleven dollars on amazon

Dj707 -

Reassembling: Make sure, the cable of the DC-In board is on the logic board-side of the screw hole when putting in the logic board. Otherwise the display data cable bracket won't fit in and you have to remove the board again.

So I hope, the DC-In board was really the cause of my problems. I changed the battery and the charging cable before and still had problems. At this moment my macbook loads again, but I don't know if its because of the board or again just luck. Thank you very much for the guide.

lichthexe - 返信

I have a specific question: does anybody know what is the purpose of the connector at step 13/14?? I broke it...

Romain Coulon - 返信

That is the connection for the back light of the keyboard without that connection you will not have any lighting under the keys. if you can live without the glow under the keys it will function fine without the back light working.

Limda Burnson -

Thank you Team for wonderful blog, I had replaced DC-in board successfully.


Dushyanta - 返信

I just replaced the DC-in board but my Mac did not turn on. Any other suggestion?

gypsyp - 返信

Many thanks for this great manual. You helped me to prolong my old MacBook’s life and I saved a lot of money. Carry on the good work!

Yannick Baumann - 返信

Any possibilities to also show “how to upgrade the mother board”?

mats_kallmyr - 返信



過去 24時間: 3

過去 7 日: 19

過去 30 日: 111

今までの合計 53,165