はじめに
このガイドを使って壊れたディスプレイアセンブリを交換します。
必要な工具と部品
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボードのソケットから上向きに引き上げます。
Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.
Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.
I used the nails of thumb and pointer finger simultaneously - worked pretty fine
I whittled down ends of two wooden strips to use, along with my fingernails to start with. I used halves of a wooden clothespin, but popsicle sticks should work too.
Mike Baker - 返信
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バッテリーケーブルをロジックボード上のソケットから外して、わずかに折り曲げておきます。そうすると、作業中にアクシデントで接続することがありません。
I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.
That's a good tip
Anrothan -
Great tip, I did that too
One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)
On my MacBook Pro, the connector seems to be an integral part of the battery.
I suspect it’s just like the special screwdriver required for seatbelts on cars – to discourage regular consumers from attempting repairs. Of course, this only encourages consumers to use the wrong tool to attempt to repairs
Dissambling my MacBookPro Premium Mid 2012 (i5-3210M 2.5Ghz) was easily, Careful with the screws, use screwdriver fitting exactly with the screws, you damage them very fast. Work very exactly, relaxed with time, consentration, good Tools and with feelings in your hands. Disconnect the Akku was easy if you take care, remove it to be safe, Two screws more, more space to work & haven`t to think about damaging someting. Apple use diffrent screws, you should have many difffrent scewdrivers. It is also good to clean everything inside, With time everything gets very dusty & dirty, don`t forget the sides and little fittings at the case. Use a pinsel, alcohol, soft peace stuff, it will look like new. If you have knowledge & experience, you can paint it in any colour or airbrushing for individualizing. You can also just polish it with a soft Politure (Sonax car Polish No1, NOT with wax or take an other light Politure you familiar & can do the job, A Laptop should serviced once a year, keeping it good working over years
First thing i do is open & cleanig everything inside,specially the cooling & fan, renew the thermal paste with an high quality product. Install the Nain System, clean up Bloatware and other unnecessary things, install standard software for daily use, additional change system components against better one (Edge to Firefox, Windows Media Player to VLC , an Office Suite and configuring everything for Data Protection, Privacy- & Indentety Protection, install Drivers from the component Manufactur (incedible effect, disable limitations, more functions, work better & faster, increasing performance, additional change the WiFi & Bluetooth Card to a better one a UMTS WWAN to an LTE Card, increase RAM with two Dual-Channel working SODIMMs, Use M2 or 2,5" SSD if no M2 Slot aviable) as System- and Software iDrive, a FAT32 formatted 32GB Partition to be safe of metaviruses comes with harmless downloads, and a big 2,5 HDD to store the user data. What does you guys think about this? Old Computer become a new life,
I livein Austria, near Vienna, if someone needs help or anything else, i would be glad to help. I always searching old or broken devices to bring them to new live. I also searching for spare parts, specilly a Bottom & Side Case and a 256GB or higher NGFF Storage Card for a Sony Vaio Tab 11 SVT1144HE (2014), some 14,1" Displays for a HP Probook 440G5 (2016), Elitebook MT 43 Mobile Thin Client, (2011), Dell Vostro 3460 (2012) Lenovo Thinkpad T440s (2014), and a Logic Board for an Lenovo Ideapad 330-15ARR (2017, damaged by Water i think) and a Logic Bord for an Alienware 17R4 with i7-6870HX & Nvidia 1080 (2018, CPU dead, maybe there is a repair Guide or workaround to bring it back to Life). I need always 8GB or 16GB DDR3 and DDR4 RAM Storage (perfectly two ident one for Dual-Channel use for Laptops, M2 SATA 6GB/s and NVMe PCIe SSDs 500GB or more and 2,5"SSD or HDD with 1TB or more and 3,5" HDD with 4GB or above. If you have some of this or other useful parts and doesn`t need them, please make me an offer, maybe
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an change something you need. This is not a Business what i do, it`s more a Hobby with challenging new Excercices.. Thats the best Point. Plase forgive me as a Newbie this very long Post in the wrong Section, but if you are start writing you cannot stop.... But now i have to come to an end and would be happy if someone wants to get in contact. My E-Mail is: udontknowme@gmx.at (the adress name is just a notice against Big Data and for Privacy Protection!
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、AirPort/Bluetoothリボンケーブルのコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットから上向きにして引き上げます。
N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.
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丁寧にロジックボード上のソケットからカメラケーブルを引き上げます。
My cable is broken, have the part number or code to buy?
I found there was plenty of length in the camera cable (as it goes around two sides of the optical drive) so does not need to be disconnected - just ease it out of the slot alongside the drive and lay it diagonally across.
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丁寧にAirPort/Bluetooth リボンケーブルを作業の邪魔にならない位置に動かします。それからサブウーファーとAirPort/Bluetoothブラケットに留められた接着剤を剥がしてカメラケーブルを取り出していきます。
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AirPort/Bluetoothブラケットの中に型どられている固定用フィンガの下からカメラケーブルを逆戻しに回して外します。
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前の手順に書かれた方法を使って、残りのアンテナコネクターの接続を外します。
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AirPort/Bluetoothブラケットに切り込まれた溝からケーブルを巻き戻します。
I found re-attaching these antennae connectors the trickiest bit by far as they appear very delicate and seating them correctly was fiddly. In the end lighting them from the side with a small torch helped to check their position before gently pushing them down. The first one made a clicking sound as it connected, the other two went on silently. MBP wifi working perfectly now. I’m fairly sure that was at least £100 of labour had I taken it in for repair so thanks ifixit for saving me money and for the warm glow of accomplishment!
Actually, on my repair attempt, one antenna cable broke (on the image the bottom right one in the red square), I’m not sure whether it broke already before or was morbid somehow. Fact is. suddenly I had this cable in my fingers, and was sure I completely broke the macbook and need to find a new display now.
But as it turned out: the Mac is still fully working, including WIFI, BT, Camera etc. So apart from my huge relief, I want to address that these cables may break easily at their connection with the display. And that one antenna might be not mandatory for WIFI to work.
How do I know which of these cables goes in which slot when attaching the new display?
BellaVulpa - 返信
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ディスプレイデータケーブルロックに留められたプラスチック製のプルタブを掴んでコンピューターのDC-In側に向けて回します。
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ディスプレイデータケーブルをロジックボードのソケットからまっすぐ引っ張ります。
This was the hardest part for me. It took me a bit to figure out what parts were the socket and which was the cable and where were they going to separate. What I did was gently twist the pull tab on the cable in a clockwise direction. This allowed me to see a small separation between the socket and cable. At that point I knew what side of the pull tab I had to use a little pressure on, to continue to wiggle the cable free.
Eric Olson - 返信
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次の2本のネジを外します。
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8.6 mmプラスネジー1本
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5.5 mm プラスネジー1本
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上部ケースからディスプレイデータケーブルのケージを取り出します。
When putting the display case back together, I found it MUCH easier to reinsert the display cable before screwing back in the data cable retainer. It did require me angling my screwdriver to get the rightmost screw in, but it was not too difficult. It certainly made it much easier to reinsert the display cable since I had more freedom to maneuver it back into position. Hope this help others. God Bless!
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ディスプレイが上部ケースに対して直角になるようにMacBook Proを開きます。
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MacBook Proを開いたまま、画像にあるようにテーブルに置きます。
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左手でディスプレイと上部ケースを一緒に持ちながら、下側のディスプレイブラケットから最後のT8 トルクスネジを外します。
I have found that keeping the MacBook more open than you’d think is the key to getting this step right. Initially I opened the lid only about 50º or so, but couldn’t free the hinges from the case even after removing the final two screws. Opening the lid to about 90º has made this much easier, and means the hinges come free without catching on the rest of the body of the Mac.
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上部ケースを右側で押さえて、ディスプレイの上部を少し回転させます。すると上部のディスプレイブラケットが上部ケースの端から外れます。
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ディスプレイをわずかに上部ケースから回して外します。
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ブラケットやケーブルが絡まっていないか、邪魔になっていないか注意しながらディスプレイを上部ケースから持ち上げて外します。
I used this guide to tighten the hinges; screen was all wobbly because the four screws that hold the screen in place had worked themselves loose. Surprised that getting at the screws required the full removal of the display. One thing that's helpful in putting it all together is in regard to adjusting the position of the hinges; with the screws loose, there is a lot of play in the hinges, and if you just torque them down, the lid won't fit right. I snugged up the screws then put the display back in place on the body & inserted one screw into each side, then loosened the hinge screws to align the screen. That has to happen before replacing the black plastic cover over the bottom edge of the display.
My Macbook Pro developed a severe wobble in the display so I took it in to the Genius bar to see what could be done. They told me that fixing it would involve replacing the whole display because the problem is due to a piece of plastic inside breaking off. I suspected it just needed to have the hinge screws tightened so I brought my laptop home and gave it a go using this guide. Well, it turns out I was right! The Torx screws joining the hinges to the the display had come loose at both sides. To fix this, I got the hinges lined up straight on the display and tightened them down. To attatch the hinges to the body, I tightened one screw on each side half way and closed the display to line it up with the body. I then proceeded then to tighten all of the Torx screws on the body. Thank you for the great guide, Philip! I love this site!
gilded yak - 返信
Might be a dumb question but can I swap screens from a broken MacBook Pro to the my working one (both same model)
Yes, you can
When separating the display, be crazy careful with those tiny WiFi antenna wires you undid in step 9. One of mine came apart with almost no force whatsoever. If you do break one, reroute them when reassembling so that ports J0 and J2 on the Airport card have good connections. That’ll retain your laptop’s ability to connect to 5GHz WiFi if you’re unable to replace the entire antenna assembly.
I’ve made the replacement following each step, everything went well except when I turn on the Mac, I can see light in the screen it actually starts all clear in white light, but then it gets dark. The computer is working well I use a external monitor connected with a HDMI adaptor, but the Macbook monitor just doesn’t work, I checked the Flex cable, it is working good, camera, sound, wifi, everything.
I don’t know what else to try. Could it be possible I just broke the mother board connection with the LCD?? Please help!
Don't know, you'll have to take it into a repair technician. Get them to have a look
Deca321 -
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デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
84 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています！ あなたも貢献してみませんか？
翻訳を始める ›
8 件のコメント
Step 18 and 19 is easier if you place the bottom keyboard down, with the display hanging over the edge of a table. This stabilizes the bottom assembly, making teardown and reassembly easier for one person
Fantastic tip - I placed it in front of me so the display rested on my thighs while the base was flat on the table - very safe, no fear of dropping/slipping.
Annette -
Thank you Phillip for providing this Guide. I used it to replace a bad LCD assembly after a water spill damaged it. The last Step 20 is very difficult. I had the worst time trying to separate the two parts after I removed the final Torex screw. It took a while, trying different angles, but I finally got it. Putting in the new one was a trivial exercise...
Phillip, thank you so much for this excellent guide. I have no technical background at all but I found it very easy to use - and it saved me hundreds of dollars on a professional repair job. Keep up the good work!
Thank you so much for going to the effort to explain the steps. It worked out perfect. I work as a Lean Engineer developing Standard Work, which is exactly what you have done. I couldnt have done it any better. Thank you if you ever come to Ireland I owe you a pint :)
Noel Kelly - 返信
I wanted to thank you so very much for your posting. I performed it slowly and methodically detaching and installing a new screen. The only difficulty I had was with re-inserting the camera cable - I figured out that I had it upside down because it wouldn’t go into the connector. Everything else went smoothly. When I completed all the steps and turned on my MacBook, a beautiful screen appeared. Thanks so very much for your hard work in posting this detailed guide! Jim Bieberich - October 17, 2018
Perfect instructions and I was able to use a screen from a dead 13” and transplant it perfectly to a unit that had failed hinges. Thanks ifixit!!!
It took me around 90 minutes and I worked very carefully. I used my iFixit magnetic mat for the third time and it is very helpful to keep the screws separate and to make notes upon. My most difficult step was orienting the display with the top case to insert the first screw. I could have used a third hand. After I accomplished that task everything else was easy. The grade 'C' display works perfectly.
How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?
gunes314 - 返信
You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.
Marshall WahlstromHelgren -
Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.
Robert Wacker - 返信
Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?
taylornya - 返信
iFixit sells a kit: MacBook Pro Unibody Lower Case Screw Set
Darrell Johnson -
I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?
rodrigosady - 返信
I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.
Michael Wilkens -
We have a guide for that!
ネジ山が潰れたネジを取り出す方法
Sam Omiotek -
My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.
jeremyyoung - 返信
A good Phillips 00 is your friend here. Also, when reinserting the screws, gently start anticlockwise and you wil feel a click at the start of the thread. This tells you you’re in the right place and less likely to cross-thread through force in the wrong place.
Iain Boyd - 返信
I feel like these are 000 screws. Amazon sales describe them as such and my 000 screwdriver fits better
cam2000deluxe -
Before ordering a new Trackpad remove the existing battery and try clicking the Trackpad. If it clicks OK with the battery out the source of problem is likely a swollen battery, which should to be replaced even if it still works to some degree. From the side of the battery you will likely see the soft part of the battery bulging beyond the hard case.
Patrick Langvardt - 返信
That’s absolutely correct as I can testify. With the battery removed I also adjusted the T6 set screw that adjusts the sensitivity of the trackpad click, evidently someone had cranked mine down tighter than the factory setting.
Gary Register -
Le quatrième paragraphe dans les instructions en français n’est pas correct : ce ne sont pas les 2 petites vis, mais les 7 petites vis qui sont inclinées. Et les 3 grandes sont bien verticales.
Degeorges - 返信
Bonjour ! Merci de votre observation. J’ai corrigé la traduction. iFixit étant un wiki, n’hésitez pas à modifiez si vous remarquez une erreur :) Encore merci de votre attention et à bientôt !
Claire Miesch -
Tip: if you have a magnetic screw mat or similar, lay the macbook over the mat to make sure it catches any screws that may decide to fall of and hide under your table
Moritz - 返信
Funny, it's not her hands that are doing the close ups. :)
Cinemated Man - 返信
What's the difference between the shouldered and non shouldered screws? They look exactly the same to me.
MLNLRD - 返信