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MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換

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  1. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, Auto Bootを無効化する: 手順 1、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, Auto Bootを無効化する: 手順 1、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, Auto Bootを無効化する: 手順 1、 3の画像 3
    • この手順を開始する前に、Macの自動起動機能を無効にする必要があります。蓋を開くと、Macの自動起動によって分解中に誤って起動される場合があります。 この手順に従うか、以下の簡略化された指示に従って自動起動を無効にします。このコマンドは全てのMacに応答するわけではありません。

    • Macを起動し、ターミナルを開きます。

    • 以下のコマンドをターミナルにコピー(または正確にタイプ)します。

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • [return]キーを押します。パスワードを求められたら、管理者パスワードを入力し、 [return]キーを再度押します。補足: [return]キーは ⏎ や "enter"として印字されている場合もあります。

    • これで、誤って電源が入ることなく、安全にMacの電源を切り、底面カバーを開くことができます。

    • 修理が完了し、完全に組み上げられた際には、以下のコマンドで再度自動起動を有効化してください。

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    Macrepair SF - 返信

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

    Dan -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - 返信

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - 返信

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - 返信

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - 返信

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - 返信

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - 返信

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - 返信

    If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot

    Roberto Sanchez Bustos -

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - 返信

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - 返信

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - 返信

    Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

    Ed Mechem -

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - 返信

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - 返信

    I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

    hatuxka - 返信

    BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

    I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

    Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

    bcardanha - 返信

    I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?

    peter sussex -

    When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

    johann beda - 返信

    When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

    Ed Mechem -

    I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

    I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

    I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

    Mircea Comanici - 返信

    After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

    Ed Mease - 返信

    This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

    G Sena - 返信

    Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?

    maël muzelet - 返信

    Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"

    Claire Miesch -

    Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.

    Tom Markham - 返信

    If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.

    arichard2401 - 返信

    For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.

    Nicholas R Licato - 返信

    Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
    I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).

    Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.

    Cédric Bontems - 返信

    After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.

    Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.

    No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.

    Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.

    webrockers - 返信

    I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.

    I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.

    webrockers -

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, ペンタローブネジを外します: 手順 2、 1の画像 1
    • 作業を始める前に、MacBookの電源を切ります。ディスプレイを閉めて、デバイスを裏返します。

    • P5ペンタローブドライバーを使って、下部ケースに固定された6本のネジを外します。

    • 6.2 mmネジー2本

    • 3.4 mmネジー4本

    • この作業中、各ネジを紛失しないように保管してください。作業後はデバイスにダメージを与えないように、装着されていた位置に取り付けてください。

    Sur le mien A1708 EMC3164 j’ai 4 vis de 6,2 (les coins) et 2 vis de 3,4 celles au milieu en bas

    Olivier Cecillon - 返信

    Ce tutoriel n’est pas dans la bonne section !

    c’est le 13” avec touch bar et non celui avec les touches de fonction .

    l’autre tuto nommé “écran complet” est le bon

    Vincent Morault - 返信

    Bonjour Vincent,

    Si vous cherchez le même tutoriel pour le MacBook 13” non Touch Bar, le voici : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...

    Claire Miesch -

    Before you start I suggest you get magnifier eyeware as screws and connectors are very small and good lightning are a big PLUS

    Gilles Vigeral - 返信

    Completed whole steps in over 4 hours….but worth it. Works back perfect and battery error message is gone….

    Gilles Vigeral - 返信

    Nothing beats a properly grounded ESD workstation, and a grounded wrist strap.

    Robin Ray - 返信

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, 吸盤カップを使って隙間を作ります: 手順 3、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, 吸盤カップを使って隙間を作ります: 手順 3、 2の画像 2
    • 吸盤ハンドルをMacBook Proの正面中央付近の下部ケース上に装着します。

    • 吸盤ハンドルを持ち上げて、下部ケースと筐体の間にわずかな隙間を作ります。

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, クリップを外します: 手順 4、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, クリップを外します: 手順 4、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, クリップを外します: 手順 4、 3の画像 3
    • 下部ケースと筐体の間にできたスペースに開口ピックの先端を挿入します。

    • 一番近いコーナー周辺に開口ピックをスライドして、ケースの片側サイド全体を移動させます。

    • この作業によって、筐体と下部ケースを固定している隠れたクリップの一つが外れます。クリップが外れる音が聞こえて感覚があるはずです。

    The instruction implies that sliding the pick up to the side of the case releases the clip. This is far from the truth; it takes a pretty strong force to pop the clip open. The plastic pick is a good start, but you need to reach in and pull the middle of that side of the case pretty hard.

    dkraemer2 - 返信

  5. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 5、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 5、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 5、 3の画像 3
    • 反対側のサイドでも前の手順を繰り返します。開口ピックを下部ケースの下にスライドさせて、2番目のクリップを外します。

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 6、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 6、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 6、 3の画像 3
    • 開口ピックを下部ケースの正面側端の下、中央部分にある2本のネジの一方付近に再び差し込みます。

    • ピックをしっかりと持って捻り、筐体と下部ケースを固定している3番目のクリップを外します。

    • この手順を繰り返して、中央部分にある2本のネジのうち、もう一方のネジ付近にも差し込んで、4番目のクリップを外します。

    Look at Step 8 pics 2 and 3 to see exactly where the clips are that need to be released. Taking the bottom cover off my MBP took for ever because I didn’t realize the clips were not right around the edges as the wording suggests. Once I realized this, it came off quickly and easily.

    Troy Reimche - 返信

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 7、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 7、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 7、 3の画像 3
    • MacBookの正面側に向けて下部ケースをしっかりと引き抜きます。(ヒンジから外します)ケースを固定している最後のクリップが外れます。

    • まず一方のコーナーを引っ張り、それから反対側のコーナーを引っ張ります。

    • サイドに引っ張りますー引き上げないでください。

    • この作業にはかなりの力が必要です。

    On the 2018 model, there are two more clips that need to be popped on the sides in the middle. Then it slides out easily.

    Cool_Breeze - 返信

  8. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, 下部ケースを外します。: 手順 8、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, 下部ケースを外します。: 手順 8、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, 下部ケースを外します。: 手順 8、 3の画像 3
    • 下部ケースを取り出します。

    • 下部ケースを再装着するには

    • ディスプレイヒンジ付近のクリップの位置を揃えます。カバーをヒンジ側に押し込みます。クリップが装着されると、それ以上スライドできなくなります。

    • スライドしてクリップが完全に装着して、下部ケースが正しく揃ったら、下部ケースをしっかりと押させて、隠れた4つのクリップも装着します。カチッと音がして装着感があるはずです。

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, バッテリーコネクタを露出します: 手順 9、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, バッテリーコネクタを露出します: 手順 9、 2の画像 2
    • バッテリーに一番近いロジックボードの端上に付けられたバッテリーコネクタを覆う大型テープを慎重に剥がします。

    • テープを剥がします。

    Please be VERY careful, I torn up my battery cable and had to replace all the battery.

    Emmanuel Neff - 返信

    Apple worked on my computer and did not put the tape back. I'm assuming it's not important?

    ronfrank - 返信

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 10、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 10、 2の画像 2
    • バッテリーボードのデータケーブルコネクタを覆っている小さなテープ片を慎重に剥がします。

    • テープはリボンケーブルに統合されていて、完全には剥がせません。コネクタにアクセスできるだけの部分を剥がすだけで十分です。

    While the tape in this step was definitely attached to the ribbon cable, I accidentally pulled it off during Step 9, thinking that it was a tab to remove the larger tape covering the whole battery connector. It didn’t seem to do any harm.

    cdowney - 返信

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 11、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 11、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ケーブルをコネクタに固定している小さな黒色のロッキングタブを持ち上げます。

    Be very careful here. I had to repeat this procedure several times on my MacBook Pro to replace faulty monitors. Eventually, after being opened and closed so many times, the small black locking tab came right off of the connector. Now my battery connection is broken and I can only use my MacBook when it is plugged into the power supply. I’m trying to find a way to securely connect the battery cable without this little locking tab (maybe with tape or something), but so far no luck. Does anyone at iFixit have any advice for me?

    Jamie Near - 返信

    Like Jamie said, use mass amounts of caution here. The lever is very fragile, and mine came off as well - and I’m not exactly a muscular guy. Without it, the connection cannot be made to the data connector, and the computer will not think that a battery is installed. I had to finagle my connector with tweezers and a spudger back into place (and the picture above makes it look normal sized. The picture lies. It is TINY! We’re talking smaller than a small eyelash tiny), and then used some of the adhesive battery strip to hopefully keep it in place.

    Wayne Linder - 返信

    The previous comments are not exaggerated. There ain’t NOTHIN’ to that locking bar. I found it helpful to zoom in with my phone to work on it. It really requires no force to move, I imagine the tape is there to hold it down.

    William Brittain - 返信

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 12、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 12、 2の画像 2
    • バッテリーボードのデータケーブルをソケットからスライドして取り出し、接続を外します。

    • ケーブルの方向は、ロジックボードと平行にスライドさせます。

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 13、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 13、 2の画像 2
    • バッテリーボードのデータケーブルをサイドに折り曲げて、作業の邪魔にならないようにします。

    The cable is held down with adhesive. Be very gentle with the delicate cable as you peel it back.

    dkraemer2 - 返信

  14. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 14、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 14、 2の画像 2
    • T5 トルクスドライバーを使って、バッテリーパワーコネクタを固定している3.7 mm パンケーキ頭部ネジを1本外します。

    Why is my screwdriver not turning even when I have the correct screwdriver and the screw is not stripped

    Jia Liu - 返信

  15. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, バッテリーの接続を外します: 手順 15、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, バッテリーの接続を外します: 手順 15、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーを使って、バッテリーの接続を外して、バッテリーパワーコネクタを慎重に持ち上げます。

    • コネクタを十分の高さに持ち上げて、ソケットから離します。修理中、アクシデントで接触しないようにご注意ください。MacBook Proにダメージを与えてしまう可能性があります。

    Dies ist kein Stecker sondern eine Kontaktplatte, die nur leicht angehoben werden muss. Dann am besten mit etwas Tesafilm isolieren.

    SchroedersKater - 返信

    (Translation for myself and others; Thanks for the nice tip by the way!) This is not a plug but a contact plate that only needs to be lifted slightly. Then it is best to isolate with some scotch tape.

    S Woo -

  16. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, アンテナケーブルアセンブリ: 手順 16、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, アンテナケーブルアセンブリ: 手順 16、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, アンテナケーブルアセンブリ: 手順 16、 3の画像 3
    • ディスプレイヒンジ上部のプラスチックカバーを固定している1.9 mm T3トルクスネジを4本外します。

    • 両方のプラスチックヒンジカバーを取り出します。

  17. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 17、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 17、 2の画像 2
    • メインディスプレイケーブル上部のアルミカバーを固定している2.9 mm T3トルクスネジを2本外します。

    • カバーを外します。

    These are T4 screws on A1706 EMC 3163

    Rex Juggler - 返信

  18. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 18、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 18、 2の画像 2
    • ディスプレイケーブルのフレックスコネクタ上部のアルミカバーを固定している 、1.7 mm T3トルクスネジを2本外します。

    • カバーを外します。

  19. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 19、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 19、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ディスプレイケーブルの接続を注意深く外します。

  20. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 20、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 20、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 20、 3の画像 3
    • 2本のディスプレイケーブルコネクタ上部の2つのアルミカバーを覆っている、1.5 mm T3 トルクスネジを4本外します。

    • ピンセットを使って、2つのアルミカバーを取り出します。

    When re-installing the display, be careful to make sure that the display cable from the logic board sits properly ABOVE its connector on the display hinge.

    dkraemer2 - 返信

    What is the exact size of these screws? lost one trying to put it back in and trying to figure out what I need to buy

    laughing rice - 返信

    Step 20….those are T4 Torx screws, not T3.

    scott - 返信

    Is this step necessary? actually i did it, but when installing the new screen, i found the 2 aluminum covers already in the new screen, so i installed the new one without taking them out…

    after it worked, i believe we can skip this step.

    my laptop is 2017 15”, 1707

    Ghannam Adham - 返信

    Isn't it better to remove these two covers during reassembly to have less friction?

    Ludovic - 返信

  21. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 21、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 21、 2の画像 2
    • アンテナケーブルアセンブリを固定している両側の3.9 mm T5トルクスネジ(片側2本ずつ)を4本外します。

    • 両側の1.1 mm P2 ペンタローブネジを12本外します。(片側6本ずつ)

    The 1,1mm screws are completly stuck, I have the screwdrivers but the screws are just not turning. Any tips how to take them off ?

    I tried other screwdrivrer and put a rubber on it while trying to take it off but nothing works,

    Gerard Soprani - 返信

    Had the same problem with my ‘quality’ P2 screwdriver. A dirt cheap set from Ya Xun, nr. YX-6025 saved the day

    Niels Beijer - 返信

    I found that a form downward pressure and gentle slowly increasing rotational pressure consistently worked

    david - 返信

    The 1.1 screws are at a slight angle (on the 2018 model, not sure about the 2017 one) so make sure you angle your screwdriver around 10° off vertical towards the rear edge of the machine.

    Cool_Breeze - 返信

    Stripped a number of these with two different repair kit screwdrivers (other brands). Waiting on a 3rd screwdriver to arrive and then will resort to super glue or a dremel to fit a tool to these and remove. Terrible time with this.

    ajdixon91 - 返信

    Just removing four LCD screen’s now. This is the worst part by far. I have what I thought was a reasonable quality Baku BK-338 P2 Pentalobe screwdriver. I am onto the third display removal and the WiFi antenna removal is where the fun begins. On the first two WiFi antenna, about five (too depressed to count them) screws rounded out in the pentalobe head. I managed to get them all out using flush cutters - gripping them with the cutters as flush as I could to the surface of the antenna and just trying to get them to rotate CCW a little to “break the seal“ so to speak without cutting in so deep as to totally mangle the head and locking them in even tighter :)

    Peter Newman - 返信

    Then I pushed them tangentially with one arm of some stout tweezers and slowly worked them out. Got them all out with minimal damage to the brass part of the antenna but I am confident it will still function OK. On the third one now and four rounded out so I better get back to it. A totally s**t way to attach them and far too many screws IMO. My biggest tip is using a quality tool like the Wera or Wira brands, pushing down into the screw and carefully and slowly applying rotation force. Have some flush cutters on standby in case you round any screws out and good luck.

    Peter Newman - 返信

    F# Apple for making pentalobe screws and f# them for using this many.

    Patrick Simons - 返信

    Wiha calls the P2 driver a 1PL

    maccentric - 返信

    Pay attention: in both sides the two 3,9 mm T5 Torx screws they are different from each other.

    DO NOT mix then otherwise you will won’t be able to install then again correctly.

    Manuel Da Silva - 返信

    Wiha 1PL worked perfectly. the 2PL was too big.

    Robin Ray - 返信

  22. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 22、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 22、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 22、 3の画像 3
    • アンテナ同軸ケーブルをロジックボードからまっすぐ引き上げて、接続を外してください。

    • ピンセットやスパッジャーの平面側先端を各ケーブルの下からソケット付近までスライドしてから、慎重に捻って、接続を外します。

    • 各ケーブルを再接続するには、コネクタをソケット上に直接位置を揃えて、カチッとと音がして装着するまで、押さえます。

    A good check that the antenna cables are connected properly, is to gently wiggle the wire. The connector will move back and forth without disconnecting. If you press too hard when reconnecting, the soft brass can become damaged, and you'll need a new antenna bar.

    Robin Ray - 返信

  23. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 23、 1の画像 1
    • 3本の同軸ケーブルをメインボードに固定している2.8mm T5トルクスネジを外します。

  24. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 24、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 24、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 24、 3の画像 3
    • 開口ピックを使って、画像で示しているアンテナケーブルアセンブリをこじ開けます。

    • 開口ピックを片側から反対側までスライドしないでください。このエリアには2本のディスプレイケーブルが搭載されていて、ダメージを与えてしまいます。

  25. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 25、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 25、 2の画像 2
    • アンテナケーブルの束を、ヒートパイプの下から慎重に引き抜いて、アンテナアセンブリを取り出します。

    Reversing this step was the hardest part for me. There is a small “tunnel” that runs under the heat pipe which the 3 antenna cables plus the securing bracket must be threaded through. The shortest cable easily got stuck or pushed off to the side under the heat pipe. After many attempts, I found success by bending the 3 wires ever so slightly to the left before inserting them in the tunnel, so that when they make it through the tunnel, they were more prone to stay straight. It was easy to grab them one by one with tweezers by doing that. Just have to be very careful.

    cdowney - 返信

    To easily fit the antenna cables – turn the whole antenna assembly about 90 degrees ccw and wiggle it a bit back and forth. Since the cables are a bit prebent they quite easily “pops” up – no need to tie them together. The last trick is to not forget the metal tab – using tweezers or a spudger to help guide the tab in position.

    John Ross - 返信

    I was very nervous about reversing this step (2016 model) but had very little trouble getting the wires back through the channel (only took me a couple minutes). I had a harder time reconnecting them, but did manage that as well.

    ronfrank - 返信

  26. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換: 手順 26、 1の画像 1
    • アンテナケーブルアセンブリを取り外します。

    • 再組み立ての際は、ケーブルの束を慎重に摘んで、ヒートパイプの下を通してボード上の正しい位置に装着します。 必要に応じて、ツールを使って、ケーブルを通してください。うまく行かない場合は、強行しないでください。

    I had a LOT of trouble re-installing the three antenna cables underneath the heat pipe! The only way I could get them through was to use clear tape to bind the three antenna connectors together tightly into one pointy end. I was able to push that through into place, but I was not able to push the three separate wires through.

    dkraemer2 - 返信

    It’s possible to avoid this problem by just not removing the antenna assembly entirely. I secured the three cables and the screw holder together with a small cable tie to avoid them slipping out. You can fit the new screen without removing the assembly completely.

    Stuart Mc -

    Thanks dkraermer2 for that tip of wrapping all 3 wires into a narrow point. I used Capton tape. The metal screw holder needed help as it catches on a ridge in the MB. I used tweezers to “Lift” it over that last ridge.

    Macrepair SF - 返信

    Make sure the antenna cable assembly locates correctly on reassembly. It is important to install this down onto its locating lugs, not pushing from the rear of the machine towards the front. There is a small ‘u’ shaped cutout on bottom of the assembly and a metal tab which must locate into the corresponding ‘u’ shaped lug and slot cut into the metal of the top case. If this is not located correctly there is a good chance that the screen will foul when opening and closing resulting in an audible click as it catches the antenna assembly.

    BrianS - 返信

    +1 for BrianS comment. The U shape is a placeholder for the antenna and is located at antenna center. If this ever happened to you, fold gently the antenna strip to leave 3 mm space from the antenna main block, and place the antenna center first in oder for the antenna to fit into the U shape properly.

    Xavier Fischer -

    +1 to both BrianS and Xavier Fischer’s comments above. Even when the lug and the cutout are identified, it’s not easy to tell if it’s been seated correctly until you test the hinge. I found Xavier’s suggestion worked.

    Stuart Mc -

    Putting the three antenna cables to snap onto the connectors again, It felt like I succeeded after much struggle. But after putting it all together - the screen is black. External monitor works though. 2 of 3 feels certain though as it seems on place.

    Martin Klasson - 返信

    Once all 16 antenna screws are removed along with single screw securing wifi simply loosen the antenna and while holding each end , ROTATE it and pull away gently so as to not disturb the bend of the wifi wires passing thru the heat pipe. The wires are never physically touched and they keep their “natural” bend. To reassemble, holding antenna, guide the two wi-fi wires and the securing lug thru heat pipe as the antenna is rotated into place . There is a very narrow milled slot on the underside that the antennas metal shield must fit into or else it will cause the snapping clicking noise ( spoken of earlier in this guide )as the display assembly hangs up during its opening / closing. Make sure if need be, the spacing between the metal shield and plastic body of antenna is the same as the ridge between the milled slot and the milled out area moving towards rear of palm rest. Alignment is important.

    robert - 返信

    I was able to install the new screen without removing the antenna cables, I just loosen the antenna screw and uplift the antenna enough to get the screen cables out and reinserted new cable underneath, a helper might come handy while you install new screen.

    Abid Khan - 返信

  27. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, ディスプレイケーブルアセンブリのネジを外します。: 手順 27、 1の画像 1
    • 2つのディスプレイケーブルのカバースプリングに留められた3.9mm T3トルクスネジを4本外します。

    Step 27. These are T4 Torx screws, not T3 Torx. FYI

    scott - 返信

  28. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, ディスプレイケーブルアセンブリを外します。: 手順 28、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, ディスプレイケーブルアセンブリを外します。: 手順 28、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, ディスプレイケーブルアセンブリを外します。: 手順 28、 3の画像 3
    • ディスプレイケーブルアセンブリの左側を摘んで、MacBookの下側端まで引っ張り、カバースプリングから引き離します。

    • ピンセットを使用して、ディスプレイケーブルのカバースプリングをくぼみから引き出します。

    • ディスプレイケーブルアセンブリの右側カバースプリングで、この手順を繰り返します。

    When placing back the holder for the display cable I used the wrong length screws and the bolts connected to the connector strip came off. Is this a concern as I am having back light issues in that I can see the outline of an image but its very dim. Thank you.

    David Moheban - 返信

  29. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, MacBookを開く: 手順 29、 1の画像 1
    • MacBookを写真の通り90度に開きます

  30. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, MacBookを置く: 手順 30、 1の画像 1
    • 画面が地面と垂直になるように、MacBookのキーボードをテーブルの端にそっと置きます。

  31. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, ヒンジのネジを緩める: 手順 31、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, ヒンジのネジを緩める: 手順 31、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, ヒンジのネジを緩める: 手順 31、 3の画像 3
    • テーブルから落とさないように優しく手で押さえながらヒンジのネジを緩めます。

    • ヒンジを固定している6本のトルクスネジをゆるめますが、外さないでください。

  32. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, 画面を全て開く: 手順 32、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, 画面を全て開く: 手順 32、 2の画像 2
    • 本体をテーブルと手で支えながら画面を完全に開きます。

  33. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, ヒンジのネジを取り外す: 手順 33、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, ヒンジのネジを取り外す: 手順 33、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, ヒンジのネジを取り外す: 手順 33、 3の画像 3
    • 片手で画面を支え、もう片方の手でヒンジを固定している6本のT8トルクスネジを取り外します。

    • ネジを外したとき画面が落ちないよう慎重に支えながら外しましょう。

  34. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, 画面を垂直に閉じる: 手順 34、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, 画面を垂直に閉じる: 手順 34、 2の画像 2
    • 画面を地面に垂直になるように閉じて戻します。

  35. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, 左のヒンジを外す: 手順 35、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, 左のヒンジを外す: 手順 35、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, 左のヒンジを外す: 手順 35、 3の画像 3
    • 今からの手順では常にディスプレイを支えながら行ってください。

    • MacBookの本体を片手でしっかりと固定します。

    • もう片方の手で、画面の左側を下に向かって押して、左ヒンジを外します。

    • 左ヒンジを外すときは、Touch Barコネクタを傷つけないように注意してください。コネクタは恐ろしく脆いため、すぐに壊れ操作不能なTouch Barになります。

  36. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, 画面を取り外す: 手順 36、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, 画面を取り外す: 手順 36、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017スクリーンの交換, 画面を取り外す: 手順 36、 3の画像 3
    • 右側のヒンジも外し、画面を外します。

終わりに

交換用のパーツとオリジナルのパーツを見比べてください。残りのコンポーネントを移植する必要があるか、パーツを取り付ける前に接着剤の裏張りを取る必要があります。

デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。

e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。

修理が上手く進みませんか?基本的なトラブルシュートのページを参照するか、アンサーフォーラムを検索してください。

82 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

en jp

100%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! あなたも貢献してみませんか?
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作成者

7人の作成者と共同で作成されました。

Nicholas H. of Experimac

メンバー登録日: 03/13/18

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33 件のコメント

What is the ribbon cable that you must remove before disconnecting the battery do?

Max4r - 返信

your mom.

all joking aside, its the communication between the logic board and the battery controller (cycle count, battery health etc)

Joe Jankins -

What is the exact P2 bit you need to remove the 12 screws holding the antenna bar? I ordered a P2 bit on Amazon that says it’s 0.8mm P2 bit and it’s too big. Not sure if they shipped me the wrong one or what. Been trying to find out exactly what bit to use and no luck so far.

Tyson Roehrkasse - 返信

Pentalobe P1L from Wiha tools fits perfectly.

Robin Ray -

What about the display ribbon cable ?

I have a bad cable and don’t want to spend 400 on display assy when the cable is available on this site for 25

Robin Bonathan - 返信

Were you able to do this successfully? I am in this exact situation and am having a hard time finding anything on it. Which ribbon cable is needed?

Carson Orchard -

I will be doing this in couple of days.

I have screen and the tools.

Robin Bonathan - 返信

Many thanks to everyone who put this guide together

G Gudeuk - 返信

I need to replace the battery board data cable and cannot find it. Any suggestions?

thank you

faithey

faith schaafsma - 返信

Does anyone know if the iFixit screens for the 2017 model have a longer backlight cable to combat the flexgate issue? or is it just the same as the original.

Connor - 返信

Fantastic guide! Only difference on my MB Pro was that all the T5’s were T4’s. Satisfied knowing Apple didn’t get me for this repair! HaHa!

MÆTHEIS SOL - 返信

Is this guide valid for the 2019 model as well?

manuel.martella - 返信

Followed this to the letter, and now my MacBook won’t power up, charge or anything. I’m devastated - and it was just the screen that was not working before.

Any advice other than the usual resets, etc? I don’t want to think that I wrecked the Logic Board…

Richard Belson - 返信

I had the exact same thing happen and now I dont know what to do.

What happened in your case? was the board totally fried?

Anthony Gasbarro -

When reassembling the screen (hinge), it is better to temporarily tape the ribbon cable to the back of the screen; ensuring the cable and the screen circuit board not to mistakenly be positioned on top of the keyboard or accidentaly fold/squeeze the ribbon cable by the hinge.

I almost ripped the ribbon cable with the middle hinge when trying to put the screen hinge back into its place.

Aryo Pinandito - 返信

Is this also Working for the MacBook Pro 2017 with Touch Bar. In Title there is it called Touchbar but its in Category from Mac Book Pro 2017 FunctionKeys ?

Marco - 返信

I did it but didn’t do the auto boot and now it won’t turn on any idea on how I could fix this

azza_wikid_tunez - 返信

So I replaced my screen. Works perfectly, but my touch bar is not working anymore! It shows everything, but I cannot touch operate it anymore. I guess I didn't damage anything. It's strange… where is the cable connected, so I can check if anything is wrong?

Maarten Leemans - 返信

I have the same issue, and I can’t manually adjust screen brightness anymore.

Waleed Nazhan -

same issue, The brightness setting is no available anymore and the touch function of the TouchBar too.

SAVARY Sebastien -

why does the display replacement for the non touch bar model link to the touch bar one when they are different internally?

kegancforbes - 返信

These steps worked well and I have successfully replaced my screen! My a1706 Touch Bar has one issue - the screen brightness can’t be adjusted any more. Anyone be got any tips? I can’t do it via the display menu either.

Vikram Jain - 返信

Amazing, really appreciate it, you helped me doing a successful installation.

Ghannam Adham - 返信

Thank you for the procedure it’s really clear ! After the replacement, i lost two functions : the setting of the brightness and the touch function of the TouchBar ( it works but there is not action when i touch the TouchBar…even after SMC and NVRAM intialization …). An idea about how to fix this issue ?

SAVARY Sebastien - 返信

Super Tutoriel. Attention faire des photos du MacBook Pro 13 pouce. Car les tapes pour débrancher l’alimentation et l’antenne ne sont pas pareilles.

Florian Bonanno - 返信

The instructions worked to perfection. However, when rebooting to go back to terminal and turn autoboot back on I cannot open any applications at all and the computer is sluggish. So that said I cannot open terminal. What could be the issue?

Jeff Craigmyle - 返信

One thing that I think may be issue for apps not opening is I may possibly have damaged the battery board data cable connector as I completely missed the part about it having a release clip. I have ordered a new one hoping that fixes the issue. If anyone has any other ideas please reply.

Jeff Craigmyle -

The tiny screws on 18 are garbage. I was able to get 1 screw out and the others sorta stripped really easily. Now I have to figure out how to get them off.

QuickTech - 返信

Excellent guide. Thanks for putting this together. My first time doing anything like this but installation was successful.

Jacob Ford - 返信

I am wanting to convert my 2017 MacBook Pro to a headless set up because the screen stopped working and wanted to know if I can keep the antennas connected and just unscrew them when taking the screen off? Or are they connected to the display like in previous models?

Cameron Stone - 返信

This guide is for A1706 MacBook?

cristiano - 返信

A1708 I believe

Daniel Long -

21th step is not T% for emc3164?

M GKL - 返信

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