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はじめに

このガイドを使って、MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 トラックパッドを交換します。取り出したバッテリーの再利用は絶対にしないでください。バッテリー を取り出す際のストレスによって、バッテリー セルに見えないダメージを与えています。このため、バッテリー には危険が潜んでいます。新しいバッテリー と交換してください。

iFixitの接着剤リムーバーは可燃性が高いです。このリムーバーを使って作業をする際は、通気性のよい場所で行ってください。作業中、付近で喫煙したり、火器のある場所で行わないでください。

'''安全のため、お持ちのMacBook Proのバッテリーを0%まで消耗してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーはアクシデントで穴が空いてしまった場合、危険性が増し制御不可能な引火が発生する恐れがあります。ご注意ください。バッテリーが膨張している場合は、適切な方法で処理してください

    • 上部ケースと底ケースを留めている次の10本のネジを外します。

    • 2.3 mm P5ペンタローブネジ−2本

    • 3.0 mm P5ペンタローブネジー8本

    • この修理では、各ネジの装着位置をメモ書きして管理してください。再組み立ての際は、デバイスにダメージを与えないよう、正しい場所に装着してください。

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 返信

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 返信

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - 返信

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - 返信

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - 返信

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - 返信

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - 返信

  1. 上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。
    • 上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。

    • ゆっくりと底ケースを上部ケースから離していきます。

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 返信

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - 返信

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - 返信

  2. 底ケースは上部ケースと2つのプラスチック製クリップで中央付近に接続されています。 再組み立ての際は、丁寧に底ケースの中央を2つのプラスチック製クリップに接続するように押し込んでください。
    • 底ケースは上部ケースと2つのプラスチック製クリップで中央付近に接続されています。

    • 再組み立ての際は、丁寧に底ケースの中央を2つのプラスチック製クリップに接続するように押し込んでください。

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 返信

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

  3. 必要に応じてバッテリーの接続ボードに留められているプラスチック製カバーを外してください。
    • 必要に応じてバッテリーの接続ボードに留められているプラスチック製カバーを外してください。

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - 返信

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - 返信

  4. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。 コネクターのみ持ち上げるよう確認しながら作業を進めてください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードに永久的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。

    • コネクターのみ持ち上げるよう確認しながら作業を進めてください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードに永久的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 返信

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 返信

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 返信

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - 返信

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - 返信

  5. 修理作業中、アクシデントによりソケットがバッテリーコネクターに接続しないよう、折り曲げて邪魔にならない位置に移動させてください。
    • 修理作業中、アクシデントによりソケットがバッテリーコネクターに接続しないよう、折り曲げて邪魔にならない位置に移動させてください。

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 返信

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 返信

  6. ロジックボードの先端に留められた出入力ボードのケーブルブラケットより、2.1 mm T5 トルクスネジを2本取り外します。
    • ロジックボードの先端に留められた出入力ボードのケーブルブラケットより、2.1 mm T5 トルクスネジを2本取り外します。

    At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

    Martin Gray - 返信

    This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

    barak - 返信

    After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.

    driesverfaillie - 返信

    While it may not be necessary to remove the left and right speakers, doing so will make it much easier to get at (and under) the end batteries and their adhesive pads. Also, by removing the speakers, you also get them out of harm’s way while you wrestle with loosening the batteries’ adhesives.

    I recommend removing the speakers and their connectors as described in the iFixit instructions.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    I did this step when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” so it would be easier to access the speaker connector

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    I agree that moving the speakers out of the way makes battery removal easier but I didn’t disconnect the right speaker, just removed the screws and folded it back out of the way. I disconnected and removed the left speaker as instructed below.

    Jim Turney - 返信

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - 返信

    I am not sure why I was even bothering with touching the speakers at all. Since April I have done at least another dozen 13” battery replacements. You simply do not need to touch the speakers for any reason, and, in fact, touching introduces unnecessary risk.

    This whole procedure of replacing the battery may easily be done in about 20 minutes.

    davelarose - 返信

  7. 出入力ボードのケーブルブラケットをピンセットで持ち、MacBookから取り出します。
    • 出入力ボードのケーブルブラケットをピンセットで持ち、MacBookから取り出します。

    Totally unnecessary step…

    davelarose - 返信

  8. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、出入力ボードのコネクターをまっすぐロジックボードのソケットから持ち上げます。 出入力ボードケーブルのみ接触するようにご注意ください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードにダメージを与えてしまう可能性があります。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、出入力ボードのコネクターをまっすぐロジックボードのソケットから持ち上げます。

    • 出入力ボードケーブルのみ接触するようにご注意ください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードにダメージを与えてしまう可能性があります。

    This step is not required.

    davelarose - 返信

  9. 出入力ボードケーブルのロジックボード端をまっすぐに持ち上げて、邪魔にならない位置に折り曲げます。 ケーブルにダメージを与えないように、ケーブル上の出入力ボードの端のみを折り曲げてください。
    • 出入力ボードケーブルのロジックボード端をまっすぐに持ち上げて、邪魔にならない位置に折り曲げます。

    • ケーブルにダメージを与えないように、ケーブル上の出入力ボードの端のみを折り曲げてください。

    I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.

    lamajr - 返信

    What is the strip sticking out from behind the battery at the top right middle?? How do I reconnect that?? I think that's why my battery isn't working. I was going to get to the Trac pad until I realized how big a job it is. Just want to fix this connection and put it back the way it was :(

    numbers - 返信

    Besser: Das Kabel kann leicht an beiden Enden gelöst und dann herausgenommen werden. Dann ist es nicht im Weg.

    Karsten Franke - 返信

    Don’t perform this step. I have zero idea why it is in this guide…

    davelarose - 返信

  10. スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の右側のスピーカーケーブル下に差し込み、ロジックボード上のソケットを引き上げます。 スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の右側のスピーカーケーブル下に差し込み、ロジックボード上のソケットを引き上げます。
    • スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の右側のスピーカーケーブル下に差し込み、ロジックボード上のソケットを引き上げます。

    Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

    barak - 返信

    WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!

    jiclark - 返信

    Put the spudger under the very centre where you see the cutout and be gentle !! It does in fact pry upward the wire itself is very fragile.

    Mmm ttt - 返信

    I used the flat end of the spudger and tried to match the width of the connector, while applying gentle upward pressure to pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    The key to accomplishing this step easily and without danger to the socket… is to follow the instruction (and the picture) PRECISELY by placing the spudger flat end under the CABLE (not the connector). Lifting the CABLE easily removes the connector from the socket without getting anywhere near the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    Seconding barak’s comment, no need to disconnect the speaker cables, keep them attached and just swing the brackets out of the way.

    Julio Garcia - 返信

    Barak is absolutely correct.

    DO NOT DO THIS STEP…

    davelarose - 返信

  11. 右側スピーカーケーブルを上部ケースから丁寧に取り出します。 右側スピーカーケーブルを上部ケースから丁寧に取り出します。 右側スピーカーケーブルを上部ケースから丁寧に取り出します。
    • 右側スピーカーケーブルを上部ケースから丁寧に取り出します。

    Why? Why does this step exist?

    Fiddling with these small cables is a poor idea if not required…

    davelarose - 返信

  12. 上部ケースに右側スピーカーを留めている次のネジを外します。
    • 上部ケースに右側スピーカーを留めている次のネジを外します。

    • 5.7 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 6.5 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.8 mm T5 トルクスネジー1本

    Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    No. Just no! Another unneeded step…

    davelarose - 返信

  13. ケーブルの先端から右側スピーカーを持ち上げてケースから取り出します。 ケーブルの先端から右側スピーカーを持ち上げてケースから取り出します。 ケーブルの先端から右側スピーカーを持ち上げてケースから取り出します。
    • ケーブルの先端から右側スピーカーを持ち上げてケースから取り出します。

    There may be some adhesive securing the cable - work it loose with a spudger before removal.

    Bob Kemp - 返信

    Very clear step by step tutorial as usual. I removed both of my MBP 2013 speakers and it was just fine. My laptop sounds like the first day now (with genuine used speakers) Thanks?

    pticrounchi@orange.fr - 返信

    Unless you are replacing the speakers, DO NOT do this step, you are risking damage without reason…

    davelarose - 返信

  14. 電子レンジに付着している汚れがiOpenerに付いてしまうことがあるので、使用前に電子レンジの底をきれいに拭き取ってください。 iOpenerを電子レンジ中央に置きます。
    • 電子レンジに付着している汚れがiOpenerに付いてしまうことがあるので、使用前に電子レンジの底をきれいに拭き取ってください。

    • iOpenerを電子レンジ中央に置きます。

    • 回転型の電子レンジ:iOpenerが電子レンジのターンテーブルで回転しているか確認してください。iOpenerが作動中に留まってしまうと、熱しすぎや焦げてしまいます。

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - 返信

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 返信

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 返信

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 返信

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 返信

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 返信

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - 返信

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - 返信

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - 返信

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - 返信

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - 返信

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - 返信

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 返信

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - 返信

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - 返信

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - 返信

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - 返信

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - 返信

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - 返信

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - 返信

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - 返信

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - 返信

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - 返信

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - 返信

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - 返信

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - 返信

  15. iOpenerを30秒温めます。
    • iOpenerを30秒温めます。

    • 修理作業中はiOpenerが冷めてしまいますので、使用毎に電子レンジに30秒入れて温めてからご利用ください。

    • 作業中、iOpenerを温めすぎないようにご注意ください。温めすぎるとiOpenerを破裂させてしまうことがあります。

    • 膨らんでいる状態のiOpenerは絶対に触らないでください。

    • 適切に温められたiOpenerは約10分間、温かい状態を保ちます。

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 返信

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 返信

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 返信

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 返信

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 返信

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 返信

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 返信

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - 返信

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - 返信

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - 返信

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - 返信

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - 返信

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - 返信

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 返信

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - 返信

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - 返信

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - 返信

  16. 電子レンジからiOpenerを取り出します。iOpenerの中央は熱くなっているため、両端の平面になっている部分を持ってください。
    • 電子レンジからiOpenerを取り出します。iOpenerの中央は熱くなっているため、両端の平面になっている部分を持ってください。

    • iOpenerは大変熱くなっていることがあります。必要であれば、オーブン用のミトンカバーをご利用ください。

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 返信

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - 返信

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - 返信

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - 返信

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - 返信

  17. 上部ケースに留められたバッテリーから3.7 mm T5トルクスネジを5本外します。
    • 上部ケースに留められたバッテリーから3.7 mm T5トルクスネジを5本外します。

    • 特定のユニットには、バッテリーの回路基板をフレームに固定するネジが1本しか付いていません。

    In my macbook pro retina, these are some kind of plastic screws. I cannot remove them.

    adriendavernas - 返信

    The plastic screws just need to be pulled out with a spudger/finger and you're good to go. I have the same model, there's also a screw on the power board not mentioned in this guide, takes a T5 screwdriver/bit

    alex - 返信

    Question - when putting the new battery back into the case, do we need to remove old glue/add new glue, use no glue at all, or place the battery in and then reheat to melt the old glue so that it will adhere to the new battery? Thanks!

    chal740 - 返信

    My adhesive didn't have enough tack to hold the battery in. I just reassembled without it and can't hear the batteries moving, but I have the rubber grommets and not screws as MarkB mentioned. Fo future repairers, I'd recommend buying some nonpermanent two sided tape just so you have the option to fasten it in.

    Vince Cipriani -

    I wish they would find another way of securing the battery, this is ridiculous.

    brian whittle - 返信

    On each 'corner' of the frame that surrounds the two centre batteries, rather than 'plastic screws' mentioned by adriendavernas there are 'domed' rubber grommets. These presumably rest against the inside of the bottom cover when it is fitted thus supporting the batteries. As there were no screws underneath in these 4 positions, there is no need to remove these grommets. Agree with alex re: removing the extra T5 screw on the power board.

    MarkB - 返信

    After destroying the adhesive which secures the batteries (bad technique or lack of patience in my effort) what is recommended to secure the batteries when reassembling?

    maxB - 返信

    The iFixit Battery had adhesive pre-applied. plenty of 3M Tissue Tape

    Rhys Goode -

    I only had the single far right screw to remove.

    barak - 返信

    My replacement A1582 battery actually had holes for the screws, though my original A1582 battery only had the 'domed' rubber grommets. Anyways, putting in the OEM A1582 battery without anything in the holes worked ok.

    Srini Seetharaman - 返信

    I wanted to put the rubber grommets on the new battery, so I used tweezers to get them back through the holes on the new battery

    Dallin Christensen - 返信

    My battery replacement came with 4 rubber grommets pre-installed, so perhaps this is no longer necessary

    hamiltont -

    Can somebody tell me what kind of screws I would need to secure the new battery? I would like to put screws into the screwholes left open by those rubber grommets.

    thekryz - 返信

    3,7 mm is the lengh I gues. How thick are they?

    Wanna know how I can search for replacement screws cause I lost the originales.

    Chris Shine - 返信

    My model (late 2013 MacBook Pro Retina), did not have any screws in these locations. They were rubber “feet” in the same locations. They are not attached in any way to the computer. They simply lift up with the plastic battery frame. My replacement batter kit came with the plastic frame - and these rubber “feet” - already installed. No need to save the old ones.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    I echo the others who found that there was only one screw (on the upper right). The remainder were rubber-like “feet”. I removed them, but they don’t seem to fasten anything, so this wasn’t necessary. As Ralph pointed out, the ifixit replacement battery comes with new “feet” installed.

    ellamama - 返信

    Mine only had the far right screw. Since the new battery came with another batch of ridiculous adhesive I didn’t bother fretting about not having the rest of the screws

    Tony Le - 返信

    some models have one screw on the upper right corner of the battery cells (battery circuit board), the rest are rubber feet that doesn’t hold anything. no need to replace them if your replacement battery doesn’t come with them.

    Houmem ZAGHDOUDI - 返信

  18. iFixitバッテリー交換キットに付いている液体接着剤リムーバーはMacBook Proのディスプレイの反射防止コートにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。
    • iFixitバッテリー交換キットに付いている液体接着剤リムーバーはMacBook Proのディスプレイの反射防止コートにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    • ディスプレイを保護するために、作業中はディスプレイとキーボードの間にアルミホイルのシートを被せてください。

  19. MacBook Proの準備はできました。次に作業をするご自身の準備をしましょう。 代わりに、温めたiOpenerを利用される方は次の3つの手順はスキップしてください。
    • MacBook Proの準備はできました。次に作業をするご自身の準備をしましょう。

    • 代わりに、温めたiOpenerを利用される方は次の3つの手順はスキップしてください。

    • iFixitの接着剤リムーバーは皮膚へのダメージが少なく、目への刺激も低いアセトンを含んでいます。

    • 接着剤リムーバーを使用する際は、必ず保護メガネを着用してください。(保護メガネはキットに同封されています)

    • 保護メガネの着用無しで、コンタクトレンズを装着しないでください。

    • 保護グローブもキットに同封されています。皮膚への刺激を心配される方は、グローブも着用してください。

  20. 接着剤リムーバーを開封してください。 キットに同封されているスポイトに少量(約1–2ml)採取します。 採取しすぎてしまうと、アクシデントで多量のリムーバーが出てしまうため、一回あたり約1–2ml以上採取しないでください。
    • 接着剤リムーバーを開封してください。

    • キットに同封されているスポイトに少量(約1–2ml)採取します。

    • 採取しすぎてしまうと、アクシデントで多量のリムーバーが出てしまうため、一回あたり約1–2ml以上採取しないでください。

    • この手順全体で、必要に応じてスポイトにリムーバーを採取します。

    Air can tilted upside down to freeze the adhesive works very well also. I just used this method today to pull a battery.

    aadeshina - 返信

    @aadeshina - That’s an excellent suggestion. I took your advice, and tried it with a can of MG Chemicals “403C Super Cold Spray”, which I had on hand for other electronics work. It worked very well — it froze the adhesive to the point where it was quite easy to work the plastic iFixit cards under the batteries, and pry them loose.

    I like this freeze technique much better than the volatile, flammable, risky solvent approach for removing the batteries. I did however find the solvent useful for softening and removing the residual adhesive remaining in the case after the old batteries were removed.

    There are many brands of aerosol freeze sprays available on Amazon, DigiKey, Mouser, etc.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    As above, Another solution to remove the batteries, (Maybe not environmentally friendly): I removed the Logic board and related components to protect them and took a can of compressed air (the kind you buy at office stores for cleaning printers and such) Invert it and use the included straw to direct the propellant (which is extremely cold under the batteries. The adhesive holding the batteries in becomes brittle and u can just pop them out with medium force using a wide putty knife. Took me 3 min to do.

    JVerdonck - 返信

    Before proceeding with the solvent, I suggest considering using dental floss to slice through the old adhesive. (See next step 22 below for more details.) Because the solvent is so dangerous (flammable and caustic), I felt the “dry” use of floss would be better. I assumed that I could revert to the solvent if necessary after trying the floss.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

  21. バッテリーセル右側端の底に、約1ml分の接着剤リムーバーを均等に注入します。
    • バッテリーセル右側端の底に、約1ml分の接着剤リムーバーを均等に注入します。

    • たくさん使用する必要はありません。小さなボトルには、全てのバッテリーセルを取り外すのに必要な量の溶媒の2倍以上の量が入っています。

    • 液体状の接着リムーバーがバッテリーセルの下に浸透するまで、約2–3分間待機してください。それから次の手順に移ります。

    • 必要に応じてより多くの接着剤リムーバーを使いますが、一度に数滴以上は塗らないでください。接着剤リムーバーを使いすぎると、キーボードの裏にそれが入り込んで損傷させる可能性があります。

    I managed to remove the battery without the adhesive by using the thread technique. More info in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... . Just make sure you have someone to help you and hold the laptop in place for you.

    driesverfaillie - 返信

    Thank you very much! This is an absolute win technique

    Денис Медведев -

    I agree that this worked much better. A few suggestions for others:

    - one type of thread that works very well is fishing line. While you can use monofilament (the clear plastic), if you can get the braided fishing line you will find it is extremely thin and super strong and works very well for this

    - string pulled tightly can cut more than just the adhesive, so be careful what you allow the string to rub against while you are pulling it. I can easily cut into another cable or the battery

    - I found that gloves (not latex, big gardening or construction gloves) helped me use string without needing to go “ow” every few seconds from your hand hurting. I have some gloves with nice grip and good hand protection, I would get the string positioned, put on the gloves, and start pulling. It worked fantastically

    I was able to remove the battery easily with the string method, and i did not remove the speakers to do so. However, when I went to seat the new battery I chose to remove the speakers to make it easier to place

    hamiltont -

    Thanks for the awesome suggestion!

    Tony Le -

    For easier removal I used a combination of heat from a hot water bottle and solvent.

    ip_leyland - 返信

    I used waxed dental floss (not sure whether the ‘waxed’ is important), which worked like a charm. I cuts through the tape much easier than seen in the linked YouTube video linked above. Each battery cell was loosened within 5-10 seconds. It worked amazingly well, and taking out the old batteries proved to be no challenge at all.

    Gerd - 返信

    +1 for dental floss - used it too and managed to cut without any effort.

    JX Low -

    Just finished a fix using floss to remove the battery. It works really well.

    pedroparracho -

    Because I preferred to avoid using the flammable adhesive remover, I tried using the dental floss method. I assumed I could always revert to adhesive remover if the floss didn’t work. The dental floss method worked beautifully. I used a slow, methodical “sawing” motion with the floss, rather than brute force. Although it took some strength, it worked well, and I didn’t need to use the remover.

    Rather than using the plastic cards (though I think they would have worked fine), I used a plastic putty knife (standard, available in any hardware or paint store); this gave me a sturdy handle with which to grip and maneuver the blade. This, too, worked well.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    I used the threading technique as well. I had a spool of pretty tough sewing thread. But it kept breaking, so I tripled it up. Still kept breaking but eventually got through it.

    For the 2 middle cells I had to thread the thread behind the plastic frame thing and both cells, but passed the thread in between the side of the frame and the cell. This was really tough and I broke the thread a few times.

    After I was finished I just cleaned everything up with acetone (aka. the adhesive remove/nail polish).

    Tony Le - 返信

    This is the hardest part of the whole process, if you don’t have any of ifixit tools you can use a hair dryer. Apply heat on the cell (make sur you don’t apply too much heat), flip the laptop apply heat for 20 to 30s on the aluminum side just near the trackpad( depending on which cell you wanna pry open) and use a credit cart gently. this will do.

    Houmem ZAGHDOUDI - 返信

    I used dental floss, but fishing line might be better. The floss kept breaking. I wound the floss around the special screwdrivers which helped with pulling it through. I used Goof Off to remove solvent AFTER I got the batteries out. It worked well. You can get Goof Off at any hardware type store.

    Thirtyeyes - 返信

  22. 液体状の接着リムーバーをお持ちでない場合は、温めた iOpenerを使って、バッテリーが上部ケースに留められている部分を温め、接着剤を柔らかくします。それからゆっくりとこじ開けていきます。 温めたiOpenerを右側の2つのバッテリーセルの右端を覆うように配置します。
    • 液体状の接着リムーバーをお持ちでない場合は、温めた iOpenerを使って、バッテリーが上部ケースに留められている部分を温め、接着剤を柔らかくします。それからゆっくりとこじ開けていきます。

    • 温めたiOpenerを右側の2つのバッテリーセルの右端を覆うように配置します。

    • 約1分経過したらiOpener を再度温めて右側の2つのバッテリーセルの残り半分が隠れるように配置します。

    I did not have an iOpener. I did not fancy using a heat gun on the batteries either so I used two flat metal spudgers to prise them off the body of the mac book. I hit the spudgers with a small hammer.

    Alex Birkett - 返信

    I used a sock filled with rice and it worked exactly the same. Microwaved it for 2 minutes (hot enough to barely hold) and set it on the batteries as above for 2 minutes.

    Then I reheated it for a minute and opened up the laptop, and slide my DYI iOpener under so it was directly under the batteries (across the trackpad portion of the laptop). This worked great because the heat went straight thru the aluminum and softened the adhesive. I ended up letting the screen hang over the edge of the table while I pried the batteries out.

    barak - 返信

    This heating with the iOpener took me forever. I tried my fair share of heating followed by nudging slowly with a credit card 1 mm at a time. Finally pried it off after 30 mins.

    Srini Seetharaman - 返信

    I used a hot water bottle (for the body). Realized the one with the cloth cover was not doing anything, but had another plastic one. Poured boiling water in, sealed, and did 2-min at a time. A old airline loyalty card worked. Don’t use a credit card as it may deteriorate.

    Daniel - 返信

  23. プラスチックカードを一番右側のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間に押し込みます。バッテリーとケースの間の接着剤を剥がしていきます。 この作業中、差し込む際にかなりの抵抗力を感じることがあれば作業を中止して、再度温めたiOpener を該当箇所に配置して温めてください。
    • プラスチックカードを一番右側のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間に押し込みます。バッテリーとケースの間の接着剤を剥がしていきます。

    • この作業中、差し込む際にかなりの抵抗力を感じることがあれば作業を中止して、再度温めたiOpener を該当箇所に配置して温めてください。

    • 温めたiOpenerを使う方法で作業をする場合、こじ開ける作業でかなりの抵抗を感じたら、作業を一旦停止して何度も該当箇所に温めたiOpenerを載せて柔らかくしてください。

    In addition to using the wheat bag/iOpener to loosen the batteries, I found it useful each time I inserted the plastic card under the batteries to give the card a 'wipe' with isopropyl alcohol to ensure that it didn't stick to the adhesive holding the batteries down. it also presumably eases the glue away from the batteries somewhat.

    MarkB - 返信

    Do the same tools and steps work on a MacBook Pro 15" late 2015 model?

    Sean - 返信

    Heat can be dangerous to Li-Ion batteries, no???

    Alex - 返信

    Excessive heat can be dangerous, but the iOpener is designed to never get hot enough to cause permanent damage. Using a heat gun or hot plate could be dangerous, but the iOpener method is the safest one we know of =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found it helpful to use some dental floss to help loosen each cell and then pry the rest off with the card

    Dallin Christensen - 返信

    Is there a substitute for the plastic cards? have all the other supplies I need. Would like to avoid ordering the whole kit for those cards?

    martha - 返信

    A couple old credit cards should work fine.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My successful alternative to the plastic cards was to use a plastic putty knife, an inexpensive purchase from any pint or hardware store. This tool gave me a strong, grippable handle with which to carefully “work” the plastic blade under the battery cells.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    I have found that different techniques are needed for different parts of the job. The outermost two batteries on both sides can be removed by softening the adhesive as shown with the fluid. The batteries are in a shallow dish so there is less chance of the fluid running everywhere. Just apply sparingly. As Christopher Girke suggested, the middle two are best removed by applying the solvent to the edge of the card. Multiple applications are necessary but this avoids the fluid getting where it should not go. Also it is easier to push in from the sides, not the front as shown in the photo to avoid a lip on the underside of the trackpad.

    johnponter - 返信

  24. プラスチックカードを使って、底ケースと一番右側のバッテリーセルの間に差し込みます。 プラスチックカードを使って、底ケースと一番右側のバッテリーセルの間に差し込みます。
    • プラスチックカードを使って、底ケースと一番右側のバッテリーセルの間に差し込みます。

  25. 次のバッテリーセルでも同じ手順を繰り返してください。 バッテリーセル左端の下に、接着剤リムーバーを少量注入します。液体状の接着リムーバーが浸透するまで、約2–3分間待機してください。 もしくは、必要に応じてiOpenerを温めてバッテリーの上に載せます。
    • 次のバッテリーセルでも同じ手順を繰り返してください。

    • バッテリーセル左端の下に、接着剤リムーバーを少量注入します。液体状の接着リムーバーが浸透するまで、約2–3分間待機してください。

    • もしくは、必要に応じてiOpenerを温めてバッテリーの上に載せます。

    • プラスチックカードを約1インチ(約2.5㎝)ほど、バッテリーセルと上部ケースの間に差し込みます。そして接着剤を剥がしながらゆっくりと持ち上げていきます。

  26. 上部ケースが右側2つのバッテリーセルが再装着するのを防ぐため、一時的にプラスチックカードを差し込んだままにします。 iOpenerを使用する場合は再度温めて載せます。今回は一番左側のバッテリーセルの上に置きます。 ここでも、iOpenerを各箇所に約1分間載せます。その間に再度1回温めて、右側から左側のバッテリーセルに移します。
    • 上部ケースが右側2つのバッテリーセルが再装着するのを防ぐため、一時的にプラスチックカードを差し込んだままにします。

    • iOpenerを使用する場合は再度温めて載せます。今回は一番左側のバッテリーセルの上に置きます。

    • ここでも、iOpenerを各箇所に約1分間載せます。その間に再度1回温めて、右側から左側のバッテリーセルに移します。

  27. 上の手順を繰り返して左端2つのバッテリーセルを上部ケースから外します。 各バッテリーセルの下に少量の接着剤リムーバーを均等に注入します。それから接着リムーバーが下に浸透するまで、約2–3分間待機してください。 2枚目のプラスチックカードを使って、上部ケースと左側2つのバッテリーセルの間に差し込みます。
    • 上の手順を繰り返して左端2つのバッテリーセルを上部ケースから外します。

    • 各バッテリーセルの下に少量の接着剤リムーバーを均等に注入します。それから接着リムーバーが下に浸透するまで、約2–3分間待機してください。

    • 2枚目のプラスチックカードを使って、上部ケースと左側2つのバッテリーセルの間に差し込みます。

  28. 2番目に挿入したカードを二つの左側セルの間に挟んだまま次の作業に移ります。
    • 2番目に挿入したカードを二つの左側セルの間に挟んだまま次の作業に移ります。

    • 次の手順では、3枚目のカードか右側端に挟んでいるカードを使用してください。この時には、右側端の接着剤は乾燥/冷却しているため、バッテリーセルは簡単に持ち上がるはずです。

  29. 最後中央にある2つのバッテリーセルに付けられた接着剤を剥がすには、液体の接着剤リムーバー (もしくは温めたiOpenerを載せる) を各バッテリーの下に数滴垂らしてください。 接着リムーバーを適量垂らしてください。トラックパッドはバッテリーのこのエリアの下に搭載されているためです。
    • 最後中央にある2つのバッテリーセルに付けられた接着剤を剥がすには、液体の接着剤リムーバー (もしくは温めたiOpenerを載せる) を各バッテリーの下に数滴垂らしてください。

    • 接着リムーバーを適量垂らしてください。トラックパッドはバッテリーのこのエリアの下に搭載されているためです。

    • MacBook Proのどちらか一方を数インチ(5㎝程度)持ち上げると接着剤リムーバーがバッテリーの下で流れ出して広がります。分厚い本やブロックを下に置いて、MacBook Proの作業中安定した土台を作ってください。

    • 左側中央のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間にカードを約1インチ(2.5㎝)差し込み、セルとケースの間の接着剤を剥がします。

    My laptop had a strip over these center batteries. I had to remove that before getting the center batteries off.

    Srini Seetharaman - 返信

    My plastic cards were hitting a black trackpad backing. I thought this was the adhesive not coming off. I also didn’t want to harm the battery and didn’t bring the card up enough.

    I found out by going through one of the side batteries, but could have just raised the tip of the card very slightly.

    Cameron Malek - 返信

    I recommend you do not use the liquid adhesive remover for the middle battery pods. These do not rest nicely in their own “tray” like the two parts on the left and right. Consequently, it is very easy to apply too much liquid, allowing the excess to run into your trackpad and logic board. Even though the liquid dries quickly, it does leave behind a little residue. The result from my experience was a slightly faulty connection for my screen, causing random pixel flickers in dark spaces on my screen. Use the floss method found elsewhere online. It is much more difficult to get out but does not risk damaging your computer.

    Andrew Jensen - 返信

    To remove the center batteries carefully, you can add some of the liquid on the tip of the remover card. Put the card at the adhesive and simply wait. It works fine and you wont use too much liquid!

    Christopher Girke - 返信

    I bent the silver plate between the trackpad and the middle battery cells while removing the middle cells, resulting in a sunken trackpad when looking from top. Clicking the trackpad also does not work anymore.

    Tamás Kende - 返信

    Be careful here when you slide any tool under the central cells to pry them open, you could slide it under a sliver plate covering the trackpad electronics, maker sure that your tool is really sliding between the cells and this silver plate, I almost torn this apart, luckily id did not damage the trackpad, dome people reported that it did really damage the trackpad.

    Houmem ZAGHDOUDI - 返信

    1. flatten the battery before you begin the dismantling

    2. remove the 4 side cells completely by cutting the cables with sharp pliers

    3. Apply adhesive remover around the middle batteries, one side at a time

    4. Use the cards to cut the adhesive from around one side at a time , adding more adhesive remover . Do NOT lift the batteries

    5. profit

    Middle batteries have black glue strips strong as welding. lifting the batteries without dissolving these will damage the touch pad back plate it's a thin metal plate

    Charm Abeywardana - 返信

    I used the floss method without solvent. It came apart relatively easily.

    Thirtyeyes - 返信

  30. カードを取り出して、右側中央のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間にカードを再度約1インチ奥まで差し込み、セルとケースの間の接着剤を剥がします。 カードを取り出して、右側中央のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間にカードを再度約1インチ奥まで差し込み、セルとケースの間の接着剤を剥がします。
    • カードを取り出して、右側中央のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間にカードを再度約1インチ奥まで差し込み、セルとケースの間の接着剤を剥がします。

  31. この時までに外側のバッテリーセル2つは外れており、2つの中央のセルでの接着剤による抵抗を感じるでしょう。もしこの状態でない場合は、前の手順に戻り、合計4つのバッテリーセルを上部ケースから完全に緩めてください。 中央の2つのバッテリーセルに留められた残りの接着剤を剥がし、デバイスからバッテリーを持ち上げます。
    • この時までに外側のバッテリーセル2つは外れており、2つの中央のセルでの接着剤による抵抗を感じるでしょう。もしこの状態でない場合は、前の手順に戻り、合計4つのバッテリーセルを上部ケースから完全に緩めてください。

    • 中央の2つのバッテリーセルに留められた残りの接着剤を剥がし、デバイスからバッテリーを持ち上げます。

    I found that gentle application from a heat gun works well enough to soften the adhesive. Use a plastic card to help as you go. Use caution not to over heat anything.

    John Lerefebvre - 返信

    Just like the recommended adhesive remover method, the dental floss method also left some strips of dry adhesive inside the laptop. I used the flat spudger to peel it off. Have patience; it will peel.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    I used GooGone adhesive remover (non-flammable, non-toxic) to loosen remaining adhesive. It worked well, applied with a paper towel. It took several applications to thoroughly clean the computer case. Allow it to dry thoroughly before adhering the replacement battery.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

  32. バッテリーを上部ケースから取り出します。 新しいバッテリーを装着する前に、MacBook Proのケースから残った接着剤を綺麗に取り出します。
    • バッテリーを上部ケースから取り出します。

    • 新しいバッテリーを装着する前に、MacBook Proのケースから残った接着剤を綺麗に取り出します。

    • 運が良ければ、ゆっくりと指で各接着ストリップを剥がせます。

    • そうでない場合は、各バッテリーセルの下に接着剤リムーバーを少量ずつ付けます。2−3分間待った後、開口ピックやお持ちのツールで接着剤をこすり落とします。この作業には少し忍耐が必要です。

    • 残りのバッテリーセルについても接着剤リムーバーを付けて同じ作業を繰り返します。それからMacBook Proを数分間、空気乾燥させます。

    • 交換用バッテリーはiFixitキットに接着剤と一緒に同封されています。バッテリーの配置やフィット感を丁寧に確認してください。それから接着剤に留められたフィルムを剥がして、バッテリーをしっかりと装着します。もしお持ちのバッテリーに付いていない余分なフィルムやライナーがある場合は、これらを取り外してください。

    • この修理ガイドを完成したら、新しく装着したバッテリーのカリブレーションを行なってください。まず100%まで充電したら、少なくとも2時間はプラグにつなげたままにします。それからプラグを抜いて、そして通常通りMacBook Proを使用してください。バッテリー残量が少ないサインが出るまで放電させます。それから作業を保存し、バッテリーが完全に放電され、スリープ状態になるまで放置してください。スリープ状態になってから5時間待ち、一気に100%まで充電してください。

    • 新しいバッテリーの装着後、何か様子が通常と異なる場合はMacBook ProのSMCをリセットする必要があります。

    RECOMMENDATION: The battery connector and associated screw are critical when considering battery alignment. Also don’t forget the left and right speaker assemblies when aligning the two small outer cells. I didn’t consider these and had issues.

    Also, keep the transparent top film on the battery to keep the cells aligned with respect to each other, and always support all the cells if handling upside down.

    Cameron Malek - 返信

    I agree, if you don’t reinstall the speaker assemblies before installing the battery, they may be impossible to put back in after the battery has adhered

    Dallin Christensen -

    Anyone reconcile the different instructions for batter calibration? Inside battery package is a business card that says drain below 10% then charge uninterrupted to 100%. That is completely different then above: “Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.”

    ryan - 返信

    The longer calibration method detailed in the guide is correct. I believe the printed cards are due for an update.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My replacement battery came with a clear plastic protective cover stuck across the top. This protective cover helps keep the four battery cells and their frame aligned properly for fitting into the space. Remove the protective cover (it peels off easily), however, before closing up your computer.

    I agree that test-mounting the new battery, including re-attaching both speakers, BEFORE removing the adhesive covers, is essential for perfect alignment of the batteries… and especially important for alignment of the battery connector and its solo screw.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    Pay attention to how the new battery sits in place before removing the adhesive strips. Although I did this, I didn’t notice that the rubber “feet” on the plastic frame around the middle batteries were very slightly out of alignment. The result was that the case could not be closed tight enough for the screws to fasten properly seal the case. It took a lot of poking around and attention to minor detail in order to get the case to fasten back in place.

    ellamama - 返信

    I followed the tutorial and everything went pretty smooth, started the calibration and got to the step of recharging after waiting 5 hours and my mac wont turn on. the magsafe charger is glowing red/orange but the mac itself is showing no signs of power or charging. Any tips? thanks in advance

    Ronald Francis - 返信

    Removing the adhesive strips of the original battery was relatively easy - compared to removing the strips of the iFixit battery… what took me 1.5 hours. All because the first battery delivered was defective so I had to repeat the replacement. Thanks for the free and quick replacement battery - fair attitude, but that did not saved my time…

    Andras - 返信

    Always amazing when it all works at the end. Combined the battery repair with the fan replacement. Looks like the battery I got from the Bay is an OEM from SMC. All went well. Now I just need to remove the display gate anti-glare with some Listerine or the W5 towelettes from LIDL (if in Europe) and the machine is like new. ;-) Thanks fixit and everyone who contributed and shared their comments.

    Daniel - 返信

    If you have only 1 screw and the 4 rubber grommets, be care about the plastic trim piece on the battery be sure it can be seated properly before removing the adhesive. When you do permanently seat the battery be sure the two bottom holes (where the grommets or screws should be) are properly within the case or you won’t be able to seal the back. I had a bit of an issue but it was easily solved by forcing the plastic opening piece into the case with a screw driver tip. I left the battery without the 4 rubber grommets as they seemed impossible to seat into the holes on the plastic piece of the battery. So far, so good.

    Thirtyeyes - 返信

  33. iOpenerをトラックパッドカバーのプレートの上に載せ、上部ケースに留められた接着剤を柔らかくします。
    • iOpenerをトラックパッドカバーのプレートの上に載せ、上部ケースに留められた接着剤を柔らかくします。

    • 作業中、iOpenerを温めすぎないようにご注意ください。iOpenerを再加熱する前に前の作業から少なくとも2分間は開けてください。

  34. プラスチックの開口ツールを使って、トラックパッドカバーのプレートを上部ケースから丁寧に引き抜きます。 プレート上に目に見える折り目を残さないようにゆっくりと丁寧に作業を行ってください。 プレート上に目に見える折り目を残さないようにゆっくりと丁寧に作業を行ってください。
    • プラスチックの開口ツールを使って、トラックパッドカバーのプレートを上部ケースから丁寧に引き抜きます。

    • プレート上に目に見える折り目を残さないようにゆっくりと丁寧に作業を行ってください。

    This adhesive was extremely strong for me and took quite a while to soften up (longer than batteries). I ended up using my wife's blow dryer after the heat pad struggled with it. Just take your time.

    Vince Cipriani - 返信

  35. 開口ツールを使って、ゆっくりと丁寧に上部ケースからトラックパッドカバーのプレートを剥がします。 開口ツールを使って、ゆっくりと丁寧に上部ケースからトラックパッドカバーのプレートを剥がします。 開口ツールを使って、ゆっくりと丁寧に上部ケースからトラックパッドカバーのプレートを剥がします。
    • 開口ツールを使って、ゆっくりと丁寧に上部ケースからトラックパッドカバーのプレートを剥がします。

  36. 丁寧にプレートを剥がして取り出します。 丁寧にプレートを剥がして取り出します。
    • 丁寧にプレートを剥がして取り出します。

  37. 必要に応じて、トラックパッドのケーブルコネクタを覆っているテープを剥がします。
    • 必要に応じて、トラックパッドのケーブルコネクタを覆っているテープを剥がします。

  38. スパッジャーの先端を使って、ZIFコネクタ上の固定タブを裏返します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、ZIFコネクタ上の固定タブを裏返します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ZIFコネクタ上の固定タブを裏返します。

    Qualifier: I have not actually been inside my laptop case yet to do this but judging from the photo in the next step (43) where the cable is being pulled out and the “release position” of the lock is flipped up in that photo…..I’d suggest the two photos in this step (42) should be reversed if one reads from left to right and assumes the photo on the left and what it represents is a step preceding the photo after it. It appears the first photo (left photo) shows the unlocked position with the locking mechanism “flipped into the UP position”. The second photo shows the cable holder in the locked position. Trying to remove (pull) the cable with the lock flipped down may result in a bad ending.

    Timothy Hardman - 返信

    Timothy - The pictures are correct and in the correct order.

    Step 41 is lifting the tape covering the latch that’s part of the ribbon cable, Step 42 is lifting the latch from down __ to up | on the logic board connector, Step 43 is now the removal of the ribbon cable from the left from the connector slot (look again the latch is still up).

    Dan -

  39. トラックパッドのリボンケーブルを基板上のソケットからまっすぐ引き抜きます。
    • トラックパッドのリボンケーブルを基板上のソケットからまっすぐ引き抜きます。

    Don't use tweezers for this (???) Pull straight, starting gently and a little firmer until it gives. 2014 doesn't have the retaining tabs

    Mmm ttt - 返信

    Point of clarification. The cable stays flat and is pulled towards the trackpad. Don’t pull it upwards toward you.

    quinnlawton - 返信

  40. スパッジャーの平面側先端をリボンケーブルが貫通している上部ケースの開口部下に差し込みます。 トラックパッドのリボンケーブルを上部ケースに固定している接着剤を剥がし、トラックパッドのリボンケーブルを外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端をリボンケーブルが貫通している上部ケースの開口部下に差し込みます。

    • トラックパッドのリボンケーブルを上部ケースに固定している接着剤を剥がし、トラックパッドのリボンケーブルを外します。

  41. トラックパッドと上部ケースに留められたトラックパッドブラケットより次のネジを外します。
    • トラックパッドと上部ケースに留められたトラックパッドブラケットより次のネジを外します。

    • 2.2 mm T5トルクスネジー4本

    • 1.7 mm T5トルクスネジー4本

    It’s not necessary to remove the 2.2mm screws.

    Terrence Kovacs - 返信

    No it’s not required, it all depends on the alignment needed with the new unit.

    Dan -

  42. ピンセットを使って、上部ケースから2つのトラックパッドマウンティングブラケットを外します。 ピンセットを使って、上部ケースから2つのトラックパッドマウンティングブラケットを外します。
    • ピンセットを使って、上部ケースから2つのトラックパッドマウンティングブラケットを外します。

  43. ディスプレイに傷をつけないように、デバイスを直角に開き、垂直に立ててください。 丁寧にトラックパッドのリボンケーブルを上部ケースの溝状のカット部分に通してください。
    • ディスプレイに傷をつけないように、デバイスを直角に開き、垂直に立ててください。

    • 丁寧にトラックパッドのリボンケーブルを上部ケースの溝状のカット部分に通してください。

    • 上部ケース上部の奥からトラックパッドを押し上げます。

    • 落ちないように、反対側の手で取り出したトラックパッドを持ちます。

  44. トラックパッドを上部ケースからゆっくりと引き抜きます。リボンケーブルに引っ掛けないようにご注意ください。 トラックパッドを上部ケースからゆっくりと引き抜きます。リボンケーブルに引っ掛けないようにご注意ください。 トラックパッドを上部ケースからゆっくりと引き抜きます。リボンケーブルに引っ掛けないようにご注意ください。
    • トラックパッドを上部ケースからゆっくりと引き抜きます。リボンケーブルに引っ掛けないようにご注意ください。

    Regarding the re-assembly once the trackpad is back in place, be careful when re-fitting the batteries; the adhesive which takes so long to separate may not hold the batteries to the chassis upon re-fitting. It may be necessary to use thin double-sided foam tape to ensure that the batteries are held firmly in place once again so that vibration does not cause the connections between the batteries to fail.

    MarkB - 返信

    If your new trackpad won't fit into place, loosen the screw at the bottom, center of the case (you can see it in the step 36 pic). Don't forget to tighten it back up. This screw affects the amount of play and click in the mouse, so fine tune it until the pad clicks to your liking.

    Vince Cipriani - 返信

    Make sure you have a good fettle with the trackpad before sticking the battery back in, the brackets in 42 and 43 can move slightly and affect the position and function of the trackpad. Ensure you are happy with it all and fasten it in place before you think about the battery. Took me a while to get it sitting just right and true.

    Phil Taylor - 返信

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

44 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

en jp

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Sam Goldheart

メンバー登録日: 2012年10月18日

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13 件のコメント

I have a non clicking trackpad in a mid 2014 chassis, i brought it to the mac store and they say they found liquid damage throughout the computer. weather i believe them is besides the point it is a backup machine and I am not going to spend $700 to clean it out. There doesn't seam to be any trackpads for sale on here. Are they available?

peteuliana - 返信

Just replaced the trackpad on a Macbook Pro A1502. The customer had used the item very little and the trackpad had just failed completely. I found a seller on ebay with a brand new part and went about replacing it. The pentolope screws should have been no problem but one was cross threaded and would not come out. We had to drill it out. Big pain in the butt. Having swapped trackpads in Macbooks before this by comparison was much harder. The battery is glued in but upon further inspection it looks to have been designed to screw in and even has screw holes in the chassis and covered screw holes in the battery. This design seems to go along with the throw away mentality of apple. Apple store said water damage but there was none at all. They wanted 400$. The previous Macbook model they year before had recalled Trackpad issues but not this one???. Really crappy Apple dropped the ball on this one accusing customers of damage and doing nothing to replace a defective part. Thank You for the great fix it!!

Waynoenterprises - 返信

7/7/2016. I took my 15" retina to the Genius Bar at the Grove where I bought it 3 years ago, as the pointer was jumping around. It would settle down sometimes, then would act up again. A readout showed that the extreme rhs of the pad was not functioning. Had to leave it. Could not open and fix it at home. Was told this was a unibody, and the entire top of the case needs to be replaced. Will cost me $310 plus tax, and 4 days. They sure don't want us to fool with it!

john - 返信

I've a question. At first I want to say, my English is not the best but I hope you understand me and anyone can answer my question. I've also a problem with the trackpad and I studied this guide a lot. I will start in a few days to try to fix this by replacing the trackpad. The only question I have is, that when I have replaced the trackpad, does I have to use some new glue to stick the battery back in the macbook. Or will the glue which is already on the battery be enough ? I found some glue on amazon which u can use for iPhone displays or something like this and I'm probably going to use this one. Has anybody replaced his trackpad and could give me an answer ? Thanks in advance.. :)

markus ernst - 返信

Hello!! I have a Macbook Pro retina 13"(mid 2014) (model:A1502). Yesterday I took my mac to the technical service because the mouse is not working well, and I did'nt know if the problem was software or the trackpad.

They say it's the trackpad, but they should change the whole topcase, and it would cost me almost $ 700 to repair. They say that in this model can not be changed only the trackpad!!! From what I'm seeing here they did not tell me the truth.

How or where can I get a trackpad of this model to solve my problem? Amazon? How do I look for it and how much can it cost? Thanks a lot!!

Serena Zitarrosa - 返信

Thank you for this instructions.

It took me 1h and 20mins with a hair dryer method I saw on youtube. Now my MacBook is running smooth again and I got my Trackpad/Touchpad back. I used uhu silicon (for up to temps of 180°C) to glue my akku back in place.. I now have to wait for 24h. I hope this method will work.

Christian Alf - 返信

Did this work for you in the end?

sjuravle -

hi every one my name is marc i juste wanna know if the track pad is not connected does the keyboard still work ??

marc alkhoury - 返信

I just removed mine and the keyboard would not work without the trackpad plugged in.

Nicholas Gianoplus -

Massive thanks to the Author of this guide and iFixit for providing the parts. My trackpad seized up so I went into Apple to be told its £430 for the repair, I’d also been having battery problems for a while and they refused to change that even when I had Apple care….. So I’m glad to be able to stick it to them now, picked up a replacement trackpad off eBay and got the battery and fitting kit from here all for £130 ish. I would recommend getting the fitting kit 100%!! The adhesive removal solution is invaluable, let it soak in and it makes light work of removing the battery. The black metal cover which is on top of the trackpad was harder and I had to heat up to remove but it came away in the end. This job is totally doable, seems daunting but is pretty easy, I guess its marked difficult due to removing the battery. Thanks to all the contributors I now have a working trackpad and 0 cycle battery!

Phil Taylor - 返信

FYI, this trackpad adjustment screw for the 2013 13” will work in the 2013 15” and 2014 15”(A1398) (Macbook 11,3). I did it myself.

craig - 返信

Hey Everyone,

after having issues with the trackpad on my mac I am about to exchange trackpad and battery. Before putting in the new battery i would like to run a test with the newly installed replacement trackpad. Does my mac run only using the power supply without a battery on the inside?

I’d be happy to hear from you!

Simon

Simon Hamperl - 返信

There is a step missing for removing the left speaker. It is not complicated since there isn’t a cable blocking access to the connector, but the step is left out.

Aside from that, the instructions were very helpful and my laptop is working again.

Eric Bray - 返信

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