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修理を始めるには

修理する権利

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はじめに

このガイドを利用してMacBook Proの接着剤で固定されたバッテリーを交換しましょう。iFixitのバッテリー交換Kitを使うと上手くいきます。キットにある接着剤リムーバーにより、バッテリーに付けられた接着剤を溶解し、簡単に取り出すことが可能となります。代わりに、iOpenerを温めてバッテリーに載せて、バッテリーをこじ開ける前に接着剤を柔らかくすることもできます。

iFixitの接着剤リムーバーは可燃性が高いです。このリムーバーを使って作業をする際は、通気性のよい場所で行ってください。作業中、付近で喫煙したり、火器のある場所で行わないでください。

ダメージのリスクを軽減するため、この作業を始めるにバッテリーを完全に放電してください。充電したリチウムポリマーバッテリーに穴を開けてしまうと、危険かつ手に負えない火事を引き起こしかねます。バッテリーが膨張している場合は、特に注意を払って適切な方法で処理してください

ご注意: リムーバーはMacBook Proのプラスチック製スピーカーエンクロージャ(筐体)などのような、ある箇所のプラスチックにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。リムーバーを散布する際は丁寧に作業を行ってください。

ボトルとスポイトが付いている旧タイプのiFixit接着剤リムーバーを使用する場合は(販売終了)、こちらの修正版ガイドを参照してください。

    • 上部ケースと底ケースを留めている次の10本のネジを外します。

    • 2.3 mm P5ペンタローブネジ−2本

    • 3.0 mm P5ペンタローブネジー8本

    • この修理では、各ネジの装着位置をメモ書きして管理してください。再組み立ての際は、デバイスにダメージを与えないよう、正しい場所に装着してください。

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 返信

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 返信

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - 返信

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - 返信

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - 返信

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - 返信

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - 返信

  1. 上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。
    • 上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。

    • ゆっくりと底ケースを上部ケースから離していきます。

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 返信

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - 返信

  2. 底ケースは上部ケースと2つのプラスチック製クリップで中央付近に接続されています。 再組み立ての際は、丁寧に底ケースの中央を2つのプラスチック製クリップに接続するように押し込んでください。
    • 底ケースは上部ケースと2つのプラスチック製クリップで中央付近に接続されています。

    • 再組み立ての際は、丁寧に底ケースの中央を2つのプラスチック製クリップに接続するように押し込んでください。

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 返信

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

  3. 必要に応じてバッテリーの接続ボードに留められているプラスチック製カバーを外してください。
    • 必要に応じてバッテリーの接続ボードに留められているプラスチック製カバーを外してください。

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - 返信

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - 返信

  4. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。 コネクターのみ持ち上げるよう確認しながら作業を進めてください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードに永久的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。

    • コネクターのみ持ち上げるよう確認しながら作業を進めてください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードに永久的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 返信

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 返信

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 返信

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - 返信

  5. 修理作業中、アクシデントによりソケットがバッテリーコネクターに接続しないよう、折り曲げて邪魔にならない位置に移動させてください。
    • 修理作業中、アクシデントによりソケットがバッテリーコネクターに接続しないよう、折り曲げて邪魔にならない位置に移動させてください。

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 返信

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 返信

  6. ロジックボードの先端に留められた出入力ボードのケーブルブラケットより、2.1 mm T5 トルクスネジを2本取り外します。
    • ロジックボードの先端に留められた出入力ボードのケーブルブラケットより、2.1 mm T5 トルクスネジを2本取り外します。

    At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

    Martin Gray - 返信

    This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

    barak - 返信

    After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.

    driesverfaillie - 返信

    While it may not be necessary to remove the left and right speakers, doing so will make it much easier to get at (and under) the end batteries and their adhesive pads. Also, by removing the speakers, you also get them out of harm’s way while you wrestle with loosening the batteries’ adhesives.

    I recommend removing the speakers and their connectors as described in the iFixit instructions.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    I did this step when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” so it would be easier to access the speaker connector

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    I agree that moving the speakers out of the way makes battery removal easier but I didn’t disconnect the right speaker, just removed the screws and folded it back out of the way. I disconnected and removed the left speaker as instructed below.

    Jim Turney - 返信

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - 返信

  7. 出入力ボードのケーブルブラケットをピンセットで持ち、MacBookから取り出します。
    • 出入力ボードのケーブルブラケットをピンセットで持ち、MacBookから取り出します。

  8. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、出入力ボードのコネクターをまっすぐロジックボードのソケットから持ち上げます。 出入力ボードケーブルのみ接触するようにご注意ください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードにダメージを与えてしまう可能性があります。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、出入力ボードのコネクターをまっすぐロジックボードのソケットから持ち上げます。

    • 出入力ボードケーブルのみ接触するようにご注意ください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードにダメージを与えてしまう可能性があります。

  9. 出入力ボードケーブルのロジックボード端をまっすぐに持ち上げて、邪魔にならない位置に折り曲げます。 ケーブルにダメージを与えないように、ケーブル上の出入力ボードの端のみを折り曲げてください。
    • 出入力ボードケーブルのロジックボード端をまっすぐに持ち上げて、邪魔にならない位置に折り曲げます。

    • ケーブルにダメージを与えないように、ケーブル上の出入力ボードの端のみを折り曲げてください。

    I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.

    lamajr - 返信

    What is the strip sticking out from behind the battery at the top right middle?? How do I reconnect that?? I think that's why my battery isn't working. I was going to get to the Trac pad until I realized how big a job it is. Just want to fix this connection and put it back the way it was :(

    numbers - 返信

    Besser: Das Kabel kann leicht an beiden Enden gelöst und dann herausgenommen werden. Dann ist es nicht im Weg.

    Karsten Franke - 返信

  10. スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の右側のスピーカーケーブル下に差し込み、ロジックボード上のソケットを引き上げます。 スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の右側のスピーカーケーブル下に差し込み、ロジックボード上のソケットを引き上げます。
    • スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の右側のスピーカーケーブル下に差し込み、ロジックボード上のソケットを引き上げます。

    Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

    barak - 返信

    WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!

    jiclark - 返信

    Put the spudger under the very centre where you see the cutout and be gentle !! It does in fact pry upward the wire itself is very fragile.

    Mmm ttt - 返信

    I used the flat end of the spudger and tried to match the width of the connector, while applying gentle upward pressure to pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    The key to accomplishing this step easily and without danger to the socket… is to follow the instruction (and the picture) PRECISELY by placing the spudger flat end under the CABLE (not the connector). Lifting the CABLE easily removes the connector from the socket without getting anywhere near the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    Seconding barak’s comment, no need to disconnect the speaker cables, keep them attached and just swing the brackets out of the way.

    Julio Garcia - 返信

  11. 右側スピーカーケーブルを上部ケースから丁寧に取り出します。 右側スピーカーケーブルを上部ケースから丁寧に取り出します。 右側スピーカーケーブルを上部ケースから丁寧に取り出します。
    • 右側スピーカーケーブルを上部ケースから丁寧に取り出します。

  12. 上部ケースに右側スピーカーを留めている次のネジを外します。
    • 上部ケースに右側スピーカーを留めている次のネジを外します。

    • 5.7 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 6.5 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.8 mm T5 トルクスネジー1本

    Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

  13. ケーブルの先端から右側スピーカーを持ち上げてケースから取り出します。 ケーブルの先端から右側スピーカーを持ち上げてケースから取り出します。 ケーブルの先端から右側スピーカーを持ち上げてケースから取り出します。
    • ケーブルの先端から右側スピーカーを持ち上げてケースから取り出します。

    There may be some adhesive securing the cable - work it loose with a spudger before removal.

    Bob Kemp - 返信

  14. スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の左側スピーカーケーブル下に差し込み、ロジックボードのソケットからケーブルを持ち上げます。 スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の左側スピーカーケーブル下に差し込み、ロジックボードのソケットからケーブルを持ち上げます。
    • スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の左側スピーカーケーブル下に差し込み、ロジックボードのソケットからケーブルを持ち上げます。

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - 返信

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - 返信

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    lamajr - 返信

    I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?

    JangJaeHee - 返信

  15. 上部ケースに留められた左側スピーカーより次のネジを外します。
    • 上部ケースに留められた左側スピーカーより次のネジを外します。

    • 5.7 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 6.5 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.8 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?

    greg steigleder - 返信

    Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.

    Patrick G -

    My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?

    robertverheij - 返信

    Hi,

    If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?

    Horst Droege -

    Where can I replace these screws?

    One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    kate Taverna - 返信

  16. 左側端のスピーカーを持ち上げて、バッテリー周辺にスライドさせて、上部ケースから外します。 ケース横にあるネジ穴にスピーカーケーブルを引っかけないようにご注意ください。 ケース横にあるネジ穴にスピーカーケーブルを引っかけないようにご注意ください。
    • 左側端のスピーカーを持ち上げて、バッテリー周辺にスライドさせて、上部ケースから外します。

    • ケース横にあるネジ穴にスピーカーケーブルを引っかけないようにご注意ください。

    There’s a typo in this section.

    “Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out AROUND the battery to remove it from the upper case.”

    Patrick G - 返信

    If I have a case assembly with battery and trackpad, the above instructions say to skip steps 18 - 44. So, how do the battery and trackpad disconnect otherwise since I need everything else to reassemble. Am I missing something?

    Brett Levine - 返信

    after step 9 what??? i cannot see the next steps….

    kotakidisoklp - 返信

    Réparation faite en moins de 5 minutes chrono (j’avais lu et relu le tuto et l’avais répété autant de fois “dans ma tête” le temps de la réception du haut parleur endommagé). Réparation très facile, faite en moins de 10 minutes tout compris. Vraiment bravo et merci !

    Eric - 返信

  17. 上部ケースに留められたバッテリーから3.7 mm T5トルクスネジを5本外します。
    • 上部ケースに留められたバッテリーから3.7 mm T5トルクスネジを5本外します。

    • 特定のユニットには、バッテリーの回路基板をフレームに固定するネジが1本しか付いていません。

    In my macbook pro retina, these are some kind of plastic screws. I cannot remove them.

    adriendavernas - 返信

    The plastic screws just need to be pulled out with a spudger/finger and you're good to go. I have the same model, there's also a screw on the power board not mentioned in this guide, takes a T5 screwdriver/bit

    alex - 返信

    Question - when putting the new battery back into the case, do we need to remove old glue/add new glue, use no glue at all, or place the battery in and then reheat to melt the old glue so that it will adhere to the new battery? Thanks!

    chal740 - 返信

    My adhesive didn't have enough tack to hold the battery in. I just reassembled without it and can't hear the batteries moving, but I have the rubber grommets and not screws as MarkB mentioned. Fo future repairers, I'd recommend buying some nonpermanent two sided tape just so you have the option to fasten it in.

    Vince Cipriani -

    I wish they would find another way of securing the battery, this is ridiculous.

    brian whittle - 返信

    On each 'corner' of the frame that surrounds the two centre batteries, rather than 'plastic screws' mentioned by adriendavernas there are 'domed' rubber grommets. These presumably rest against the inside of the bottom cover when it is fitted thus supporting the batteries. As there were no screws underneath in these 4 positions, there is no need to remove these grommets. Agree with alex re: removing the extra T5 screw on the power board.

    MarkB - 返信

    After destroying the adhesive which secures the batteries (bad technique or lack of patience in my effort) what is recommended to secure the batteries when reassembling?

    maxB - 返信

    The iFixit Battery had adhesive pre-applied. plenty of 3M Tissue Tape

    Rhys Goode -

    I only had the single far right screw to remove.

    barak - 返信

    My replacement A1582 battery actually had holes for the screws, though my original A1582 battery only had the 'domed' rubber grommets. Anyways, putting in the OEM A1582 battery without anything in the holes worked ok.

    Srini Seetharaman - 返信

    I wanted to put the rubber grommets on the new battery, so I used tweezers to get them back through the holes on the new battery

    Dallin Christensen - 返信

    My battery replacement came with 4 rubber grommets pre-installed, so perhaps this is no longer necessary

    hamiltont -

    Can somebody tell me what kind of screws I would need to secure the new battery? I would like to put screws into the screwholes left open by those rubber grommets.

    thekryz - 返信

    3,7 mm is the lengh I gues. How thick are they?

    Wanna know how I can search for replacement screws cause I lost the originales.

    Chris Shine - 返信

    My model (late 2013 MacBook Pro Retina), did not have any screws in these locations. They were rubber “feet” in the same locations. They are not attached in any way to the computer. They simply lift up with the plastic battery frame. My replacement batter kit came with the plastic frame - and these rubber “feet” - already installed. No need to save the old ones.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    I echo the others who found that there was only one screw (on the upper right). The remainder were rubber-like “feet”. I removed them, but they don’t seem to fasten anything, so this wasn’t necessary. As Ralph pointed out, the ifixit replacement battery comes with new “feet” installed.

    ellamama - 返信

    Mine only had the far right screw. Since the new battery came with another batch of ridiculous adhesive I didn’t bother fretting about not having the rest of the screws

    Tony Le - 返信

    some models have one screw on the upper right corner of the battery cells (battery circuit board), the rest are rubber feet that doesn’t hold anything. no need to replace them if your replacement battery doesn’t come with them.

    Houmem ZAGHDOUDI - 返信

  18. iFixitバッテリー交換キットに付いている液体接着剤リムーバーはMacBook Proのディスプレイの反射防止コートにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。
    • iFixitバッテリー交換キットに付いている液体接着剤リムーバーはMacBook Proのディスプレイの反射防止コートにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    • ディスプレイを保護するために、作業中はディスプレイとキーボードの間にアルミホイルのシートを被せてください。

  19. MacBook Proの準備はできました。次に作業をするご自身の準備をしましょう。 代わりに、温めたiOpenerを利用される方は次の3つの手順はスキップしてください。
    • MacBook Proの準備はできました。次に作業をするご自身の準備をしましょう。

    • 代わりに、温めたiOpenerを利用される方は次の3つの手順はスキップしてください。

    • iFixitの接着剤リムーバーは皮膚へのダメージが少なく、目への刺激も低いアセトンを含んでいます。

    • 接着剤リムーバーを使用する際は、必ず保護メガネを着用してください。(保護メガネはキットに同封されています)

    • 保護メガネの着用無しで、コンタクトレンズを装着しないでください。

    • 保護グローブもキットに同封されています。皮膚への刺激を心配される方は、グローブも着用してください。

  20. 接着剤リムーバーを開封してください。 キットに同封されているスポイトに少量(約1–2ml)採取します。 採取しすぎてしまうと、アクシデントで多量のリムーバーが出てしまうため、一回あたり約1–2ml以上採取しないでください。
    • 接着剤リムーバーを開封してください。

    • キットに同封されているスポイトに少量(約1–2ml)採取します。

    • 採取しすぎてしまうと、アクシデントで多量のリムーバーが出てしまうため、一回あたり約1–2ml以上採取しないでください。

    • この手順全体で、必要に応じてスポイトにリムーバーを採取します。

    Air can tilted upside down to freeze the adhesive works very well also. I just used this method today to pull a battery.

    aadeshina - 返信

    @aadeshina - That’s an excellent suggestion. I took your advice, and tried it with a can of MG Chemicals “403C Super Cold Spray”, which I had on hand for other electronics work. It worked very well — it froze the adhesive to the point where it was quite easy to work the plastic iFixit cards under the batteries, and pry them loose.

    I like this freeze technique much better than the volatile, flammable, risky solvent approach for removing the batteries. I did however find the solvent useful for softening and removing the residual adhesive remaining in the case after the old batteries were removed.

    There are many brands of aerosol freeze sprays available on Amazon, DigiKey, Mouser, etc.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    As above, Another solution to remove the batteries, (Maybe not environmentally friendly): I removed the Logic board and related components to protect them and took a can of compressed air (the kind you buy at office stores for cleaning printers and such) Invert it and use the included straw to direct the propellant (which is extremely cold under the batteries. The adhesive holding the batteries in becomes brittle and u can just pop them out with medium force using a wide putty knife. Took me 3 min to do.

    JVerdonck - 返信

    Before proceeding with the solvent, I suggest considering using dental floss to slice through the old adhesive. (See next step 22 below for more details.) Because the solvent is so dangerous (flammable and caustic), I felt the “dry” use of floss would be better. I assumed that I could revert to the solvent if necessary after trying the floss.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

  21. バッテリーセル右側端の底に、約1ml分の接着剤リムーバーを均等に注入します。
    • バッテリーセル右側端の底に、約1ml分の接着剤リムーバーを均等に注入します。

    • たくさん使用する必要はありません。小さなボトルには、全てのバッテリーセルを取り外すのに必要な量の溶媒の2倍以上の量が入っています。

    • 液体状の接着リムーバーがバッテリーセルの下に浸透するまで、約2–3分間待機してください。それから次の手順に移ります。

    • 必要に応じてより多くの接着剤リムーバーを使いますが、一度に数滴以上は塗らないでください。接着剤リムーバーを使いすぎると、キーボードの裏にそれが入り込んで損傷させる可能性があります。

    I managed to remove the battery without the adhesive by using the thread technique. More info in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... . Just make sure you have someone to help you and hold the laptop in place for you.

    driesverfaillie - 返信

    Thank you very much! This is an absolute win technique

    Денис Медведев -

    I agree that this worked much better. A few suggestions for others:

    - one type of thread that works very well is fishing line. While you can use monofilament (the clear plastic), if you can get the braided fishing line you will find it is extremely thin and super strong and works very well for this

    - string pulled tightly can cut more than just the adhesive, so be careful what you allow the string to rub against while you are pulling it. I can easily cut into another cable or the battery

    - I found that gloves (not latex, big gardening or construction gloves) helped me use string without needing to go “ow” every few seconds from your hand hurting. I have some gloves with nice grip and good hand protection, I would get the string positioned, put on the gloves, and start pulling. It worked fantastically

    I was able to remove the battery easily with the string method, and i did not remove the speakers to do so. However, when I went to seat the new battery I chose to remove the speakers to make it easier to place

    hamiltont -

    Thanks for the awesome suggestion!

    Tony Le -

    For easier removal I used a combination of heat from a hot water bottle and solvent.

    ip_leyland - 返信

    I used waxed dental floss (not sure whether the ‘waxed’ is important), which worked like a charm. I cuts through the tape much easier than seen in the linked YouTube video linked above. Each battery cell was loosened within 5-10 seconds. It worked amazingly well, and taking out the old batteries proved to be no challenge at all.

    Gerd - 返信

    +1 for dental floss - used it too and managed to cut without any effort.

    JX Low -

    Just finished a fix using floss to remove the battery. It works really well.

    pedroparracho -

    Because I preferred to avoid using the flammable adhesive remover, I tried using the dental floss method. I assumed I could always revert to adhesive remover if the floss didn’t work. The dental floss method worked beautifully. I used a slow, methodical “sawing” motion with the floss, rather than brute force. Although it took some strength, it worked well, and I didn’t need to use the remover.

    Rather than using the plastic cards (though I think they would have worked fine), I used a plastic putty knife (standard, available in any hardware or paint store); this gave me a sturdy handle with which to grip and maneuver the blade. This, too, worked well.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    I used the threading technique as well. I had a spool of pretty tough sewing thread. But it kept breaking, so I tripled it up. Still kept breaking but eventually got through it.

    For the 2 middle cells I had to thread the thread behind the plastic frame thing and both cells, but passed the thread in between the side of the frame and the cell. This was really tough and I broke the thread a few times.

    After I was finished I just cleaned everything up with acetone (aka. the adhesive remove/nail polish).

    Tony Le - 返信

    This is the hardest part of the whole process, if you don’t have any of ifixit tools you can use a hair dryer. Apply heat on the cell (make sur you don’t apply too much heat), flip the laptop apply heat for 20 to 30s on the aluminum side just near the trackpad( depending on which cell you wanna pry open) and use a credit cart gently. this will do.

    Houmem ZAGHDOUDI - 返信

  22. 液体状の接着リムーバーをお持ちでない場合は、温めた iOpenerを使って、バッテリーが上部ケースに留められている部分を温め、接着剤を柔らかくします。それからゆっくりとこじ開けていきます。 温めたiOpenerを右側の2つのバッテリーセルの右端を覆うように配置します。
    • 液体状の接着リムーバーをお持ちでない場合は、温めた iOpenerを使って、バッテリーが上部ケースに留められている部分を温め、接着剤を柔らかくします。それからゆっくりとこじ開けていきます。

    • 温めたiOpenerを右側の2つのバッテリーセルの右端を覆うように配置します。

    • 約1分経過したらiOpener を再度温めて右側の2つのバッテリーセルの残り半分が隠れるように配置します。

    I did not have an iOpener. I did not fancy using a heat gun on the batteries either so I used two flat metal spudgers to prise them off the body of the mac book. I hit the spudgers with a small hammer.

    Alex Birkett - 返信

    I used a sock filled with rice and it worked exactly the same. Microwaved it for 2 minutes (hot enough to barely hold) and set it on the batteries as above for 2 minutes.

    Then I reheated it for a minute and opened up the laptop, and slide my DYI iOpener under so it was directly under the batteries (across the trackpad portion of the laptop). This worked great because the heat went straight thru the aluminum and softened the adhesive. I ended up letting the screen hang over the edge of the table while I pried the batteries out.

    barak - 返信

    This heating with the iOpener took me forever. I tried my fair share of heating followed by nudging slowly with a credit card 1 mm at a time. Finally pried it off after 30 mins.

    Srini Seetharaman - 返信

  23. プラスチックカードを一番右側のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間に押し込みます。バッテリーとケースの間の接着剤を剥がしていきます。 この作業中、差し込む際にかなりの抵抗力を感じることがあれば作業を中止して、再度温めたiOpener を該当箇所に配置して温めてください。
    • プラスチックカードを一番右側のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間に押し込みます。バッテリーとケースの間の接着剤を剥がしていきます。

    • この作業中、差し込む際にかなりの抵抗力を感じることがあれば作業を中止して、再度温めたiOpener を該当箇所に配置して温めてください。

    • 温めたiOpenerを使う方法で作業をする場合、こじ開ける作業でかなりの抵抗を感じたら、作業を一旦停止して何度も該当箇所に温めたiOpenerを載せて柔らかくしてください。

    In addition to using the wheat bag/iOpener to loosen the batteries, I found it useful each time I inserted the plastic card under the batteries to give the card a 'wipe' with isopropyl alcohol to ensure that it didn't stick to the adhesive holding the batteries down. it also presumably eases the glue away from the batteries somewhat.

    MarkB - 返信

    Do the same tools and steps work on a MacBook Pro 15" late 2015 model?

    Sean - 返信

    Heat can be dangerous to Li-Ion batteries, no???

    Alex - 返信

    Excessive heat can be dangerous, but the iOpener is designed to never get hot enough to cause permanent damage. Using a heat gun or hot plate could be dangerous, but the iOpener method is the safest one we know of =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found it helpful to use some dental floss to help loosen each cell and then pry the rest off with the card

    Dallin Christensen - 返信

    Is there a substitute for the plastic cards? have all the other supplies I need. Would like to avoid ordering the whole kit for those cards?

    martha - 返信

    A couple old credit cards should work fine.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My successful alternative to the plastic cards was to use a plastic putty knife, an inexpensive purchase from any pint or hardware store. This tool gave me a strong, grippable handle with which to carefully “work” the plastic blade under the battery cells.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    I have found that different techniques are needed for different parts of the job. The outermost two batteries on both sides can be removed by softening the adhesive as shown with the fluid. The batteries are in a shallow dish so there is less chance of the fluid running everywhere. Just apply sparingly. As Christopher Girke suggested, the middle two are best removed by applying the solvent to the edge of the card. Multiple applications are necessary but this avoids the fluid getting where it should not go. Also it is easier to push in from the sides, not the front as shown in the photo to avoid a lip on the underside of the trackpad.

    johnponter - 返信

  24. プラスチックカードを使って、底ケースと一番右側のバッテリーセルの間に差し込みます。 プラスチックカードを使って、底ケースと一番右側のバッテリーセルの間に差し込みます。
    • プラスチックカードを使って、底ケースと一番右側のバッテリーセルの間に差し込みます。

  25. 次のバッテリーセルでも同じ手順を繰り返してください。 バッテリーセル左端の下に、接着剤リムーバーを少量注入します。液体状の接着リムーバーが浸透するまで、約2–3分間待機してください。 もしくは、必要に応じてiOpenerを温めてバッテリーの上に載せます。
    • 次のバッテリーセルでも同じ手順を繰り返してください。

    • バッテリーセル左端の下に、接着剤リムーバーを少量注入します。液体状の接着リムーバーが浸透するまで、約2–3分間待機してください。

    • もしくは、必要に応じてiOpenerを温めてバッテリーの上に載せます。

    • プラスチックカードを約1インチ(約2.5㎝)ほど、バッテリーセルと上部ケースの間に差し込みます。そして接着剤を剥がしながらゆっくりと持ち上げていきます。

  26. 上部ケースが右側2つのバッテリーセルが再装着するのを防ぐため、一時的にプラスチックカードを差し込んだままにします。 iOpenerを使用する場合は再度温めて載せます。今回は一番左側のバッテリーセルの上に置きます。 ここでも、iOpenerを各箇所に約1分間載せます。その間に再度1回温めて、右側から左側のバッテリーセルに移します。
    • 上部ケースが右側2つのバッテリーセルが再装着するのを防ぐため、一時的にプラスチックカードを差し込んだままにします。

    • iOpenerを使用する場合は再度温めて載せます。今回は一番左側のバッテリーセルの上に置きます。

    • ここでも、iOpenerを各箇所に約1分間載せます。その間に再度1回温めて、右側から左側のバッテリーセルに移します。

  27. 上の手順を繰り返して左端2つのバッテリーセルを上部ケースから外します。 各バッテリーセルの下に少量の接着剤リムーバーを均等に注入します。それから接着リムーバーが下に浸透するまで、約2–3分間待機してください。 2枚目のプラスチックカードを使って、上部ケースと左側2つのバッテリーセルの間に差し込みます。
    • 上の手順を繰り返して左端2つのバッテリーセルを上部ケースから外します。

    • 各バッテリーセルの下に少量の接着剤リムーバーを均等に注入します。それから接着リムーバーが下に浸透するまで、約2–3分間待機してください。

    • 2枚目のプラスチックカードを使って、上部ケースと左側2つのバッテリーセルの間に差し込みます。

  28. 2番目に挿入したカードを二つの左側セルの間に挟んだまま次の作業に移ります。
    • 2番目に挿入したカードを二つの左側セルの間に挟んだまま次の作業に移ります。

    • 次の手順では、3枚目のカードか右側端に挟んでいるカードを使用してください。この時には、右側端の接着剤は乾燥/冷却しているため、バッテリーセルは簡単に持ち上がるはずです。

  29. 最後中央にある2つのバッテリーセルに付けられた接着剤を剥がすには、液体の接着剤リムーバー (もしくは温めたiOpenerを載せる) を各バッテリーの下に数滴垂らしてください。 接着リムーバーを適量垂らしてください。トラックパッドはバッテリーのこのエリアの下に搭載されているためです。
    • 最後中央にある2つのバッテリーセルに付けられた接着剤を剥がすには、液体の接着剤リムーバー (もしくは温めたiOpenerを載せる) を各バッテリーの下に数滴垂らしてください。

    • 接着リムーバーを適量垂らしてください。トラックパッドはバッテリーのこのエリアの下に搭載されているためです。

    • MacBook Proのどちらか一方を数インチ(5㎝程度)持ち上げると接着剤リムーバーがバッテリーの下で流れ出して広がります。分厚い本やブロックを下に置いて、MacBook Proの作業中安定した土台を作ってください。

    • 左側中央のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間にカードを約1インチ(2.5㎝)差し込み、セルとケースの間の接着剤を剥がします。

    My laptop had a strip over these center batteries. I had to remove that before getting the center batteries off.

    Srini Seetharaman - 返信

    My plastic cards were hitting a black trackpad backing. I thought this was the adhesive not coming off. I also didn’t want to harm the battery and didn’t bring the card up enough.

    I found out by going through one of the side batteries, but could have just raised the tip of the card very slightly.

    Cameron Malek - 返信

    I recommend you do not use the liquid adhesive remover for the middle battery pods. These do not rest nicely in their own “tray” like the two parts on the left and right. Consequently, it is very easy to apply too much liquid, allowing the excess to run into your trackpad and logic board. Even though the liquid dries quickly, it does leave behind a little residue. The result from my experience was a slightly faulty connection for my screen, causing random pixel flickers in dark spaces on my screen. Use the floss method found elsewhere online. It is much more difficult to get out but does not risk damaging your computer.

    Andrew Jensen - 返信

    To remove the center batteries carefully, you can add some of the liquid on the tip of the remover card. Put the card at the adhesive and simply wait. It works fine and you wont use too much liquid!

    Christopher Girke - 返信

    I bent the silver plate between the trackpad and the middle battery cells while removing the middle cells, resulting in a sunken trackpad when looking from top. Clicking the trackpad also does not work anymore.

    Tamás Kende - 返信

    Be careful here when you slide any tool under the central cells to pry them open, you could slide it under a sliver plate covering the trackpad electronics, maker sure that your tool is really sliding between the cells and this silver plate, I almost torn this apart, luckily id did not damage the trackpad, dome people reported that it did really damage the trackpad.

    Houmem ZAGHDOUDI - 返信

  30. カードを取り出して、右側中央のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間にカードを再度約1インチ奥まで差し込み、セルとケースの間の接着剤を剥がします。 カードを取り出して、右側中央のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間にカードを再度約1インチ奥まで差し込み、セルとケースの間の接着剤を剥がします。
    • カードを取り出して、右側中央のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間にカードを再度約1インチ奥まで差し込み、セルとケースの間の接着剤を剥がします。

  31. この時までに外側のバッテリーセル2つは外れており、2つの中央のセルでの接着剤による抵抗を感じるでしょう。もしこの状態でない場合は、前の手順に戻り、合計4つのバッテリーセルを上部ケースから完全に緩めてください。 中央の2つのバッテリーセルに留められた残りの接着剤を剥がし、デバイスからバッテリーを持ち上げます。
    • この時までに外側のバッテリーセル2つは外れており、2つの中央のセルでの接着剤による抵抗を感じるでしょう。もしこの状態でない場合は、前の手順に戻り、合計4つのバッテリーセルを上部ケースから完全に緩めてください。

    • 中央の2つのバッテリーセルに留められた残りの接着剤を剥がし、デバイスからバッテリーを持ち上げます。

    I found that gentle application from a heat gun works well enough to soften the adhesive. Use a plastic card to help as you go. Use caution not to over heat anything.

    John Lerefebvre - 返信

    Just like the recommended adhesive remover method, the dental floss method also left some strips of dry adhesive inside the laptop. I used the flat spudger to peel it off. Have patience; it will peel.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    I used GooGone adhesive remover (non-flammable, non-toxic) to loosen remaining adhesive. It worked well, applied with a paper towel. It took several applications to thoroughly clean the computer case. Allow it to dry thoroughly before adhering the replacement battery.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

  32. バッテリーを上部ケースから取り出します。 新しいバッテリーを装着する前に、MacBook Proのケースから残った接着剤を綺麗に取り出します。
    • バッテリーを上部ケースから取り出します。

    • 新しいバッテリーを装着する前に、MacBook Proのケースから残った接着剤を綺麗に取り出します。

    • 運が良ければ、ゆっくりと指で各接着ストリップを剥がせます。

    • そうでない場合は、各バッテリーセルの下に接着剤リムーバーを少量ずつ付けます。2−3分間待った後、開口ピックやお持ちのツールで接着剤をこすり落とします。この作業には少し忍耐が必要です。

    • 残りのバッテリーセルについても接着剤リムーバーを付けて同じ作業を繰り返します。それからMacBook Proを数分間、空気乾燥させます。

    • 交換用バッテリーはiFixitキットに接着剤と一緒に同封されています。バッテリーの配置やフィット感を丁寧に確認してください。それから接着剤に留められたフィルムを剥がして、バッテリーをしっかりと装着します。もしお持ちのバッテリーに付いていない余分なフィルムやライナーがある場合は、これらを取り外してください。

    • この修理ガイドを完成したら、新しく装着したバッテリーのカリブレーションを行なってください。まず100%まで充電したら、少なくとも2時間はプラグにつなげたままにします。それからプラグを抜いて、そして通常通りMacBook Proを使用してください。バッテリー残量が少ないサインが出るまで放電させます。それから作業を保存し、バッテリーが完全に放電され、スリープ状態になるまで放置してください。スリープ状態になってから5時間待ち、一気に100%まで充電してください。

    • 新しいバッテリーの装着後、何か様子が通常と異なる場合はMacBook ProのSMCをリセットする必要があります。

    RECOMMENDATION: The battery connector and associated screw are critical when considering battery alignment. Also don’t forget the left and right speaker assemblies when aligning the two small outer cells. I didn’t consider these and had issues.

    Also, keep the transparent top film on the battery to keep the cells aligned with respect to each other, and always support all the cells if handling upside down.

    Cameron Malek - 返信

    I agree, if you don’t reinstall the speaker assemblies before installing the battery, they may be impossible to put back in after the battery has adhered

    Dallin Christensen -

    Anyone reconcile the different instructions for batter calibration? Inside battery package is a business card that says drain below 10% then charge uninterrupted to 100%. That is completely different then above: “Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.”

    ryan - 返信

    The longer calibration method detailed in the guide is correct. I believe the printed cards are due for an update.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My replacement battery came with a clear plastic protective cover stuck across the top. This protective cover helps keep the four battery cells and their frame aligned properly for fitting into the space. Remove the protective cover (it peels off easily), however, before closing up your computer.

    I agree that test-mounting the new battery, including re-attaching both speakers, BEFORE removing the adhesive covers, is essential for perfect alignment of the batteries… and especially important for alignment of the battery connector and its solo screw.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    Pay attention to how the new battery sits in place before removing the adhesive strips. Although I did this, I didn’t notice that the rubber “feet” on the plastic frame around the middle batteries were very slightly out of alignment. The result was that the case could not be closed tight enough for the screws to fasten properly seal the case. It took a lot of poking around and attention to minor detail in order to get the case to fasten back in place.

    ellamama - 返信

    I followed the tutorial and everything went pretty smooth, started the calibration and got to the step of recharging after waiting 5 hours and my mac wont turn on. the magsafe charger is glowing red/orange but the mac itself is showing no signs of power or charging. Any tips? thanks in advance

    Ronald Francis - 返信

    Removing the adhesive strips of the original battery was relatively easy - compared to removing the strips of the iFixit battery… what took me 1.5 hours. All because the first battery delivered was defective so I had to repeat the replacement. Thanks for the free and quick replacement battery - fair attitude, but that did not saved my time…

    Andras - 返信

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

188 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

en jp

100%

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Sam Goldheart

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39 件のコメント

What is the part number for the mid 2014 13 inch MacBook Pro battery? I see a lot of batteries for sale for the mid 2013 online. Are they compatible?

johnpaeng - 返信

Macbook Pro A1502 not charging after disassembly/assembly (I just wanted to clean the touchpad). MagSafe is orange but the Macbook is not charging - running only when plugged in. MacOS says the battery needs to be replaced - even if it has 82% charged.. I alson tried reset of SMC and PRAM with no effect..

Any advice? Thanks

tommy69 - 返信

Same problem here. Did you find a solution?

Tim Bo -

guys same problem, did you find some solution? @tim_bo @tommy69

Alpay -

Yes, same thing. Had to replace battery and now it’s working.

Check if it’s actually charging. My battery status stated that it needs to be replaced and mac was running on ac instead of battery.

Dominika -

Bonjour, mon problème : mon Mac Book Pro 13" 2014 mes pourcentage descende de 2 pourcents toutes les 2 minutes il tiens a peine 3h a votre avis vaut t'il le coup que je change la batterie ?

Merci.

Stryken Strix - 返信

I would advise working to step six, then skipping to step 16. Take the speaker cables and plastic frame, once the screws are out, and gently fold them back. I used a stiff plastic-about the thickness and size of a credit card to work the glue off from under the battery. No heat or alcohol. All together, from opening to closing, a very simple 15 minute job.

I followed the steps and unfortunately the left speaker socket came off of the control board. Which is why I advise not doing the steps between 6-15. Once the side frames and speaker is off, just fold them back and out of the way.

Brij Verma - 返信

Thank you for the post. I used it for a friend whose battery was not charging. I am fairly familiar with Macs but don't work on them everyday. This guide was very helpful. Now she has a new battery (good seller on eBay...less than $60) and is back up and going. Thank you again for the post, I greatly appreciate it (enough to give a comment...and I usually never give comments).

MacFixer - 返信

I recently completed this guide and everything went very smoothly. I skipped many of the steps leading up to the adhesive removal, and only found it necessary to pull up the left and right speakers. My adhesive remover had evaporated, so I just used some nail polish (100% acetone) and leverage to get the battery cells to come off the case. Be aware that once you stick the batteries in, they will be very difficult to pull back off. I put mine in slightly crooked, but everything powered up fine and my macbook's battery is good as new. My only real struggle was that since I put my batteries in a bit crooked, the case back wouldn't attach flush to the body, so I had to go back in and wiggle the small tubes surrounding the main cell so they would be seated properly.

Thanks for the guide!

David Thibodeaux - 返信

Do you know when the repair kit is going to be available again?

carlos a. - 返信

Piece of cake. Hardest part was disconnecting the speaker connections, because it’s a delicate job and you really don’t know how much stress you can put on the connection until you undo the first one.

Many have suggested not removing the speakers, but I felt it gave me far better access and leverage to pry the battery out.

Gary Gray - 返信

IFIXIT Rocks! Thank you so much for the fantastic guides.

I wish you the greatest success in 2018!

Langston Holland

soundscapes - 返信

I found this guide to be great. My first time replacing a battery on any laptop. The only hard part was of course removing the old battery. I used the hair dryer method I saw on YouTube. Took me a while, over an hour, only because it was my first time and I wanted to make sure I did it right. Everything powered back up and is working normal. I am so glad I found these guides. Thank you so much. Apple store here in Jacksonville, Fl wanted to send my laptop out to a service center for a track pad replacement, if that was what was needed, for up to $400. Meaning, it might not cost that much, but it could, so be prepared. My issue was a trackpad that was not clicking any more. Fiddled with the screw a bit and it still wouldn’t click right, checked the battery cycle and saw that it was at 890 so that needed to be replaced. So got my battery from here and replaced that and fiddled with the same trackpad a bit and it is better, but still won’t click the same as new, but it does work just OK.

judymarie58 - 返信

Should I be worried about ESD? Anti-static Wrist strap? Plug-in the MacBook to have it grounded? Perform the replacement completely naked on hardwood floors in a moist environment? Or just touch a part of the metal laptop frame before I start touching more delicate components?

Dylan Bartley - 返信

@dylanf79 Yes, always have a strategy for protecting against ESD. Modern devices have a lot of ESD protection baked in, and using ESD-safe tools like the ones recommended in this guide goes a long way—but still, better safe than sorry. Use a wrist strap if you like, or just touch a metal part of the chassis frequently during the repair. Remove rings and other metal jewelry from your hands before you start. Definitely avoid environments with a high static charge (performing the repair while shuffling back and forth across a carpeted room not recommended).

Jeff Suovanen -

I gave a friend my old 2014 MacBook Pro and got myself a new one. I loved the machine, but she needed one. A week after she had it, she spilled a glass of water on it. After drying it out, it worked fine, but wouldn’t run from, or charge the battery. Most people suggested it needed an new $700+ logic board, but a few suggested I start with just a battery replacement. So I bought the kit from Ifixit. The kit was complete with everything I needed. The step by step instructions were clear and easy to follow. And best of all the battery replacement alone has the machine working as good as new for only $99.

Thanks Ifixit!!!

Mike D’Anna - 返信

Done, thanks a lot.

We’ll see if my work is valuable in time by now.

SMC/NVRAM initialisation have been necessary as expected, but all works at first try.

Some comments though,

- in my mid 2014 MBP the battery has only pads instead of screws, and the battery provided in the kit needs a bit of tweaking to fit inside, though nothing that hard.

- maybe you should add some advices about having a little magnifying glass with you to disconnect precisely and safely the connectors with the spudger (especially if you’re older than 50 like me :D) and a blower (the kind you use for photography gears for instance) to get off the dust accumulated in time in the inside. A little vacuum can help to, if handled very carefully (to avoid aspiring little screws or parts of course).

- could be a good advice too to tell people to place the sheet of aluminum foil even before the beginning of the work, as it is safer to manipulate the computer while it is still closed.

However excellent “how to” and toolkit.

Thanks again

Pierre Lagarde - 返信

좋은 정본데 실제 하기는 쉽지 않을듯하다.

99불 박에 안하니까 해볼만은 할것 같은데, 뭔 문제점들이 이렇게 많이 나오냐.

teambase - 返信

Thanks for a great guide. iFixit! I second the remarks of Pierre on the pads instead of screws, the magnifying glass (50+ :-). I havent used the removal solution, slightly worried about messing up the plastic parts. With a bit of patience, 2 blunt metal spudgers and a few business cards to prevent re-attachment it worked in my hands.

Jos Joore - 返信

After battery replacement complete. I have an error “WiFi no hardware installed”

blue tooh not available either

What could I have jostled loose? I reset PRAM and SmC. I’ll try doing those things again. But I was pretty confident with my actions while repairing.

Tbt - 返信

Check the AirPort card and antenna connections, and make sure nothing got knocked loose by accident. Reconnect/reseat all the connectors, reboot, and reset NVRAM and SMC again. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Well it took a few extra days to get my battery due to weather conditions out west but I got it. This is my second foray into the sick-demented-world of the glued in battery. My first was with my 2013 15 inch MacBook Pro and that was a success despite gutting my wee bearin to get it done. The 2014 13 inch MacBook Pro was easy - I wound up carefully prying up the battery and then cleaning up the sticky. It is back together the fan was running full speed. I disconnect and reconnect the battery and that seems to have solved it - guess it did not seat right the first time - said unrecognized battery but now all is well.

abrahambloom - 返信

I am sure glad I have good business insurance. Once these batteries set them selves on FIRE they don’t stop and are as hot as a welding torch and you can’t stop them. I now know why the shipping companies have special requirements for shipping these.

Be careful…. :-)

Rick Wilson - 返信

This is why it’s so important to discharge the battery before you start any repair. Stay safe out there!

Jeff Suovanen -

I used the dental floss method with the iOpener. I removed the cells starting from the top, using the spudger’s tip to push the floss under the cell. Removal of old battery was very fast. I did not remove the speakers at all, since I did not need access to the sides.

Filippo Neri - 返信

Very helpful, I changed the replaced the battery from my mac. Thanks a lot. :)

A precaution though: be extra careful while sticking the new battery the glue is very strong it will not move once it touches the battery compartment . I think i ruined the right speaker because of this. :D. I had to balance 100% of the speaker output to the left speaker because of this.

Kundan Agrawal - 返信

I just went through this process and am appreciative of the guides. I say ‘guides’ (plural) because there are a number of 30-some step procedures for the similar models of Macbook Pro, and they all contain about 25 steps too many. Like many of the others, I did steps 1-4 then carefully freed my discharged battery using a plastic smudger. New one installed without a hitch and my trackpad, which was previously not working properly due to pressure from a swollen battery, is now back to functioning perfectly. Definitely worth the work to get another 2-4 years out of this laptop.

Pro tip: use ‘yes’ to blast your CPU and empty your old battery quickly. In terminal run ‘yes /dev/null’ for each CPU you want to stress so for 4 CPUs you’d do:

yes > /dev/null & yes > /dev/null & yes > /dev/null & yes > /dev/null

If you command-c to quit you’ll only kill one, oddly so after exiting out you’ll need to do this to kill the rest:

killall -HUP yes

strayduck007 - 返信

At 5K cycles my battery was still just above 80% capacity but it was draining when in sleep/powered off.

Bought the replacement battery here, replaced using this guide and everything is fine now! Thanks ifixit community!

Pavlo Sulimenko - 返信

I never received any adhesive remover with my kit purchase. what exactly is the adhesive remover and can I use something similar to take old battery out? please help me

Nelson - 返信

It is acetone. This can be commonly purchased as nail polish remover.

Drew Lyall -

This seems to be a very complicated way of replacing the battery! There are a few videos on YouTube showing how you can use string to remove the battery.

Rodrigo J. Da Silva - 返信

Hi, can you please send a link to those videos?

Michael Goldberg -

Super Beschreibung! Unbedingt an die Anleitung halten. Ich hatte bereits einen gewölbten defekten Akku in der Mitte und nicht die “Karte” bestellt und verwendet. Leider hab ich mit einem Lineal den anderen (nicht defekten) Akku in der Mitte beschädigt, so dass er stark zum Qualmen angefangen hatte. Gott sei Dank hab ich den Akku dann doch noch rausbekommen. Jetzt läuft das Teil wieder wie gewohnt. Danke

Peter - 返信

Worked great! Unfortunately, my “will not boot” issue seems to be with the board and not the battery. Steps were easy; the longest part was prying the old battery off and inserting the new battery. But nothing complicated.

Ben Jiles - 返信

Successful repair! My battery was very well glued so I ended up using a combination of fixit adhesive remover and dental floss. My theory is that you don’t have to use so much of the adhesive remover that way. Thanks a lot for the guide!

kimjohansson - 返信

Everything went smoothly and I was very careful with the adhesive but now some of my buttons stop working like enter and P. Then I followed the instructions that I should let the battery charge and then let it die and then charge it up again. But it will not start!!!!!????? HELP

Indigo Funck - 返信

The battery adhesive is really strong, I’m not sure if the iOpener did anything to help me though.

Kalib Soltesz - 返信

why did not you upload a video?

sahildarisipudi - 返信

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