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修理を始めるには

修理する権利

パーツ&ツール

はじめに

ディスプレイガラスと iSightカメラアセンブリを含むRetinaディスプレイを交換するには、この手順をご覧ください。

  1. 上部ケースと底ケースを留めている次の10本のネジを外します。
    • 上部ケースと底ケースを留めている次の10本のネジを外します。

    • 2.3 mmペンタローブネジ−2本

    • 3.0 mmペンタローブネジー8本

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 返信

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - 返信

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

    Edison - 返信

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 返信

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - 返信

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - 返信

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    Just finished replacing my battery (MacBook Pro 13” early 2015), glad I did, the old ones were noticeably swollen. I was surprised to find the battery at 57% upon completion and charging the new battery. No problems with replacement however, kit arrived without the Pentalobe driver. I got a nice complete kit from Amazon for 20 euro in 2 days. iFixit offered a coupon on any future purchase but right now, I have no plans on needing anything. Nice gesture but would have preferred the driver in the kit in the first place.

    Suggest having a small can of compressed air on hand to clean out the interior, after 4 years, mine was quite dirty. Ear buds and alcohol were the best I could do. And a magnetized driver is mandatory I think.

    D M - 返信

    REQUIRED PARTS (SCREWS) TO DO THIS JOB UNAVAILABLE HERE:

    If your keyboard is riveted to the chassis as mine is, Late 2013 MBP 13” retina, you need about 100 screws to reattach the new keyboard.

    ifixit does not have them. I did just now find them at Beetstech for $4.50 along with a back light $13 for the keyboard in case you want one. It looks like Beetstech is a big competitor of ifixit with an excellent reputation (like ifixit has) too. I just ordered these parts and will not happily be moving forward with my keyboard replacement.

    Timothy Hardman - 返信

    Fun Fact: I got three of the 2,3 mm Pentalopes … ;-)

    Paco Demant - 返信

    My PB had eight (8), 2.3 mm screws and two (2), 3.0 mm screws.

    ellamama - 返信

  2. 上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。
    • 上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。

    • ゆっくりと底ケースを上部ケースから離していきます。

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 返信

    Agreed. A decent amount of force is required here.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

  3. 底ケースは上部ケースと2つのプラスチック製クリップで中央付近に接続されています。 再組み立ての際は、丁寧に底ケースの中央を2つのプラスチック製クリップに接続するように押し込んでください。
    • 底ケースは上部ケースと2つのプラスチック製クリップで中央付近に接続されています。

    • 再組み立ての際は、丁寧に底ケースの中央を2つのプラスチック製クリップに接続するように押し込んでください。

    There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

    wrbandllm - 返信

    This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

    addvariety - 返信

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - 返信

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - 返信

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 返信

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

  4. 必要に応じてバッテリーの接続ボードに留められているプラスチック製カバーを外してください。
    • 必要に応じてバッテリーの接続ボードに留められているプラスチック製カバーを外してください。

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - 返信

    There is no point on going near the battery or logic board. I cut out these steps with no issue. It is precautionary but unnecessary.

    Jaime Leonard - 返信

    I agree. No point in removing the battery connection, as it’s one more thing that can break. Just be careful to shut down your machine before doing any work on it.

    Ron LaPedis -

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    My new battery kit included a replacement for this part, so, no need to save the old one.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

  5. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。 コネクターのみ持ち上げるよう確認しながら作業を進めてください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードに永久的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。

    • コネクターのみ持ち上げるよう確認しながら作業を進めてください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードに永久的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 返信

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - 返信

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 返信

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - 返信

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 返信

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    I have verified I have this battery, and I have a mid-2014 macbook retina. And I swear i do not see this battery connector. I didn’t take the cover off, per other comments that said it was an unnecessary risk. What the heck? will I not see the battery cable without taking of that cover?

    martha - 返信

    How can i post a photo of what I am seeing …I don’t see the battery connector! not like in photo above. maybe I have to remove that plastic cover although others recommended not doing that (see above).

    martha - 返信

    ooops nevermind..I see it now! tks . But..there is SO much gunk/dust under there (old, hand me down, used by my teen daughter while eating in bed no doubt!) . Should I attempt to clean? Beyond just blowing on it? Is compressed air safe? Or should I just leave it be? Assuming I don’t break it while replacing this battery I’d like not to break it otherwise! tks

    martha - 返信

  6. 修理作業中、アクシデントによりソケットがバッテリーコネクターに接続しないよう、折り曲げて邪魔にならない位置に移動させてください。
    • 修理作業中、アクシデントによりソケットがバッテリーコネクターに接続しないよう、折り曲げて邪魔にならない位置に移動させてください。

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 返信

    Not sure I understand: did leaving the battery plugged in permanently broke the I/O board (or anything else)?

    Adrien -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 返信

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - 返信

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - 返信

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    I agree that inserting a small paper above between the socket and the connector was useful. I used post-it-note, but kept the adhesive away from the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

  7. Nintendo Switch Kits

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    Nintendo Switch Kits

    A quick fix to get back in the game

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  8. ゴム製のファンバンパーをヒートシンクの端から丁寧に外します。 ファンバンパーはヒートシンクの周りに巻かれて、ファンダクトの小さい溝に付けられています。再組み立ての際は、このタブがファンダクトのノッチにきちんと装着されているか確認してください。 ファンバンパーはヒートシンクの周りに巻かれて、ファンダクトの小さい溝に付けられています。再組み立ての際は、このタブがファンダクトのノッチにきちんと装着されているか確認してください。
    • ゴム製のファンバンパーをヒートシンクの端から丁寧に外します。

    • ファンバンパーはヒートシンクの周りに巻かれて、ファンダクトの小さい溝に付けられています。再組み立ての際は、このタブがファンダクトのノッチにきちんと装着されているか確認してください。

  9. アンテナケーブルコネクター付近のアンテナケーブル3本の下にスパッジャーを差し込み、AirPortボードからケーブルを持ち上げます。 3本のケーブルはそれぞれ異なる長さの黒色スリーブでコートされています。再組み立ての際は次の点にご注意ください。 長いスリーブケーブルは中央のソケットに接続してください。
    • アンテナケーブルコネクター付近のアンテナケーブル3本の下にスパッジャーを差し込み、AirPortボードからケーブルを持ち上げます。

    • 3本のケーブルはそれぞれ異なる長さの黒色スリーブでコートされています。再組み立ての際は次の点にご注意ください。

    • 長いスリーブケーブルは中央のソケットに接続してください。

    • 短いスリーブのケーブルはネジの隣に接続します。

    • 最後のケーブルにはスリーブが付けられていません。これをファンの隣のソケットに接続します。

    I struggled with reconnecting these, and in the process accidentally ripped the connector away from the wire. Is there anything I can do to reattached it?

    Vanessa schroll - 返信

    This is most difficult and time consuming portion of this entire procedure. Make sure to lift the connectors straight up - not to damage them. The reconnection of the contacts may take several tries. USE CARE AND BE PATIENT! You will eventually get them to connect.

    Darius - 返信

    does anyone have advice on what is the best tool to use for reconnecting? this is definitely the hardest step to reassembly

    M N - 返信

    When reassembling, I used tweezers to line them up and the spudger to push them down.

    Joshua Johnson - 返信

    thank you Joshua, this helped me get them. they do take a bit of patience but it’s worth taking your time.

    Kevin Lynch -

    everything else was easy... I still haven't managed to figure this step out... good luck in your repair

    M N - 返信

    I got it! line the wire up; push the top part of the metal and give it firm pressure; they should snap in and connect

    M N - 返信

    You'll get 'em in. Work gently. Make sure they're exactly over top the bottom pins. Press down with a flat smudger. It took me a lot of gentle work to get them in.

    Kent - 返信

    I saw the sleeves on these.. and when looking at the replacement display saw they matched exactly and took the chance it was intentional. The only thing that got me.. was the bottom panel screws.. didn't know there were 3 types.. (should have known though, I mean right?! LOL Apple (rolls eyes) They could do like Samsung and use one screw for everything.. but oh no.. there is some OCD engineer that just likes SCREWING with people!

    Tim - 返信

    Pro Tip: When reassembling, do not screw on the metal tab attached to these connectors (part of step 15) until after you have all 3 connected. This gives you uninhibited range of motion for the 3 wires. Go slow as other commenters have said. Start with the shortest wire first. Once all 3 are connected, screw on the metal tab with those 2 screws. Finally double check that all 3 are still connected.

    D B - 返信

  10. スパッジャーの先端を使って iSight カメラケーブルコネクターの一方を動かし、ロジックボード上のソケットから接続を外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って iSight カメラケーブルコネクターの一方を動かし、ロジックボード上のソケットから接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って iSight カメラケーブルコネクターの一方を動かし、ロジックボード上のソケットから接続を外します。

    First, lift the flat cable just off the board as it is normally “stuck” to the board. This will help the connector to release from the socket.

    John Lopinto - 返信

  11. iSightカメラケーブルを内蔵しているファンから剥がします。 iSightカメラケーブルを内蔵しているファンから剥がします。
    • iSightカメラケーブルを内蔵しているファンから剥がします。

  12. 黒色のプラスチックタブを掴み、ディスプレイケーブルコネクターを裏返して開き、ロジックボードのソケットからまっすぐ引っ張ります。 再組み立ての間、ディスプレイコネクターのタブを完全に装着したか確認してください。 再組み立ての間、ディスプレイコネクターのタブを完全に装着したか確認してください。
    • 黒色のプラスチックタブを掴み、ディスプレイケーブルコネクターを裏返して開き、ロジックボードのソケットからまっすぐ引っ張ります。

    • 再組み立ての間、ディスプレイコネクターのタブを完全に装着したか確認してください。

    This is pulled straight out to the side of the Macbook, not up.

    nmackaron - 返信

    Thanks for adding this comment !

    jrbhome - 返信

    Please use a nylon black stick to lift the lock bar up and push the connection apart reason being is the lock bar should not be pulled on and by pulling on it like shown may cause damage to the MLB/DISPLAY connection and then you’re into not just a display repair but a MLB on top of it!!!

    Dutchie - 返信

    hello, im trying to do this because im experiencing a blackscreen problem. Id like to do this but my macbook looks so different than this one. Could anyone help me?

    Karla Díaz - 返信

    If it doesn’t look like this, you’re looking at the wrong guide.

    maccentric -

  13. ゴム製の丁番カバーを左右ディスプレイの丁番から外します。 ゴム製の丁番カバーを左右ディスプレイの丁番から外します。 ゴム製の丁番カバーを左右ディスプレイの丁番から外します。
    • ゴム製の丁番カバーを左右ディスプレイの丁番から外します。

  14. MacBookの両側のアルミニウム製丁番ブラケットに留められた4.2 mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。 MacBookの両側のアルミニウム製丁番ブラケットに留められた4.2 mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。
    • MacBookの両側のアルミニウム製丁番ブラケットに留められた4.2 mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。

    I found these to be very tight and wasnt able to move them with the ifixt screwdriver kit, i had to get a t-handle torx 9 bit to move them

    harveyhalfpint - 返信

    Yes they were tight but I managed to shift them with the iFixit screwdriver set

    Steven Fillingham - 返信

    This is 1 screw on each side (not 2 on each side). They are circled in red.

    nmackaron - 返信

    The T5 in the set I bought from LaptopScreen.com was too big and started to strip these screws. Got an Ace Hardware brand one instead and it worked great.

    Brian Hultin - 返信

    Be careful at reassembling. This screw tends to brake if you tighten it too much.

    Mertensa Hens - 返信

    These were T4 not T5 size for me

    Praj Basnet - 返信

  15. ピンセットを使って、アルミ製丁番ブラケットを左右のディスプレイ丁番から持ち上げます。 再組み立ての際は、MacBook中央にあるアルミ製レールに対してブラケットが垂直の向きになるように装着します。 再組み立ての際は、MacBook中央にあるアルミ製レールに対してブラケットが垂直の向きになるように装着します。
    • ピンセットを使って、アルミ製丁番ブラケットを左右のディスプレイ丁番から持ち上げます。

    • 再組み立ての際は、MacBook中央にあるアルミ製レールに対してブラケットが垂直の向きになるように装着します。

    Vorsicht beim Wiederzusammenbau! Diese Schraube ist bei mir am Kopf abgebrochen, als ich sie etwas zu fest hineingedreht habe. Musste das Teil dann notdürftig mit Klebeband fixieren.

    ——-

    Be careful at reassembling. This screw tends to brake if you tighten it too much.

    Mertensa Hens - 返信

  16. 上部ケースにディスプレイを留めている5.3 mm T8トルクスネジを4本(両側に2本ずつ)外します。 あるモデルによっては、T8ではなくT9のトルクスネジを使用しているものがあります。
    • 上部ケースにディスプレイを留めている5.3 mm T8トルクスネジを4本(両側に2本ずつ)外します。

    • あるモデルによっては、T8ではなくT9のトルクスネジを使用しているものがあります。

    Does these three screws are the same size? Can i mix use these screws during the installing process?

    Michael Kwok - 返信

    On my model, there was a thin piece of translucent plastic covering the left-side outer screws. It peeled off easily. It must be replaced upon reassembly. When removing these two (left-side) screws, a metal assembly securing the antenna wires was released below the screws. It must be replaced before reassembling these two screws.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

  17. MacBook Proを画像にあるように、テーブル上に片方サイドを縦にして90度以上開きます。 ディスプレイを左手で押さえながら、残りのT8トルクスネジを上部ディスプレイブラケットから外します。
    • MacBook Proを画像にあるように、テーブル上に片方サイドを縦にして90度以上開きます。

    • ディスプレイを左手で押さえながら、残りのT8トルクスネジを上部ディスプレイブラケットから外します。

    • ディスプレイと上部ケースがきちんと固定されている箇所で作業を行ってください。不安定な場所での作業は落下してしまう原因となりコンポーネントにダメージを与えてしまいます。

    • 上部ケースに留められたディスプレイから最後のT8トルクスネジを取り出します。

  18. 右手で上部ケースを持ち、時計周りにディスプレイ上側に向かってデバイスを回します。するとディスプレイケーブルと上部ケースの端が離れます。 ディスプレイをわずかに上部ケースから離します。 ブラケットやケーブルが絡まないように注意しながら、上部ケースからディスプレイを引っ張りながら離します。
    • 右手で上部ケースを持ち、時計周りにディスプレイ上側に向かってデバイスを回します。するとディスプレイケーブルと上部ケースの端が離れます。

    • ディスプレイをわずかに上部ケースから離します。

    • ブラケットやケーブルが絡まないように注意しながら、上部ケースからディスプレイを引っ張りながら離します。

    When replacing the display assembly with a new one, the new hinges may be very hard to move into the 90 degree position. We found it helpful to loop a paperclip into the screw hole of the hinge to facilitate pulling open the hinge.

    Eric - 返信

    Yes also found the hinges to be extremely tight, could not move them with from their initial position with fingers, ended up using a pair of pliers to rotate them enough to get fingers under them

    Steven Fillingham - 返信

    Are there any cheaper replacement screens? If so I need to know. My parents still haven't found out and I don't make a ton of money...

    Haley Hildreth - 返信

    The paper clip is a great tip. I also used the spudger flat end under the hinge and the metal side of the case as leverage to push it up.

    D B - 返信

    Excellent guide, Andrew! I am an ACMT and when disconnecting the eDP cable, I like to use the pointed ends of two spudgers (Apple calls them ‘black sticks’) to push the connector straight back out of the socket by pushing on its edges. This prevents any stress to the locking bar and also helps to ensure that the connector is disconnected evenly. For reassembly, I line up the connector carefully and once the pins are all lined up and the cable connector partially inserted, I push on the back edges on either side of the connector with the pointed ends of two spudgers, ‘walking’ the connector back into place so that it is even on both sides.

    Also, when disconnecting the camera cable connector from the logic board, I use the same method as above, situating the points of the sticks into the notches on each side of the connector and pushing straight back vs walking it back. I do the same thing when reconnecting the cable, but I ‘walk’ it back as mentioned above with the eDP cable connector.

    Ez Bless - 返信

    Also, once I have removed the clutch covers, I remove the two screws holding the metal antenna grounding loop in place (first picture in Step 15 of your guide). I move the loop out of the way and reinstall the two screws just until the heads of the screws make contact with the metal surface of the hinge. I loosen all of the rest of the screws and then tighten them back down just until the screws stop turning (without torquing them). I thoroughly brush off the surface area of the ESD mat where I am going to situate the MacBook for the next step, and then flip it over and open the display 90 degrees. I flip the machine back over and rotate it 90 degrees so that the ‘Apple’ logo on the back of the display lid is facing me, inverted, and the display hinges are much closer to me. After carefully scooting the machine back just until the display makes contact with the edge of the table, I pull the display up toward me to open it fully. I then carefully remove the hinge screws.

    Ez Bless - 返信

    For removal, you simply need to lift up slightly on the top edge of the display (possible once the 6 hinge screws have been fully removed) until it has cleared the recesses of the top case. It can then be lifted out without any hassle and you should not need to use any paper clips as mentioned in previous comments. I hope this helps someone; it is knowledge I have gained from following Apple’s Service Guides and experience from having replaced hundreds of displays in a short amount of time. We are an AASP on a university campus, so display repairs are VERY common (from mostly student customers).

    Ez Bless - 返信

    Hello everyone! I have problem after display changing. The brightness adjustment doesn’t work anymore. As I fine out its standard situation when you change displays for MacBook. Did anyone know how to fix this issue ?

    Bezromval - 返信

    I'm having the exact same issue! Did you find a solution?

    Victor Bui -

    Excellent guide. My IT guys were scared to touch my mac but I did it myself. Thanks to ifixit

    Soul Reaver - 返信

    This is an excellent guide. I replaced the screen on my macbook pro 13” retina early 2015. However, I am having some odd behavior from my fixed computer.

    With the lid open, the computer does not seem to boot. However, if I close the lid (after booting or re-booting) the apple logo lights up and when I open the lid fully, the computer operates normally. Any idea what is wrong? I bought the screen replacement second hand on ebay.

    Vivek Chivukula - 返信

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

112 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

100%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! あなたも貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Sam Goldheart

メンバー登録日: 2012年10月18日

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32 件のコメント

Dear Ifixit. I just order a display from a mid2014 macbook 13 inch retina, for a friend of mine. Guys congrats. nice support and custumer services. hassle free. Thanks. These is why companies grow huge. Keep it up. I will try to put another other during the week. Thank for everything. I will post my experience with the product as soon is here.!!!!!! Go Ifixit!!!!

Carlos De Bernard - 返信

Shipping to Sweden was super fast. The display assembly was in perfect condition and I am typing this on my repaired MacBook Pro! Whoohoo, thanks ifixit!

conradchristensen - 返信

Thanks for the easy to follow guide! Worked perfectly on my Early 2015 MacBook Pro! Saved me so much money.

strauchler - 返信

sorry your macbook pro is ealy 2015? I run the screen of 2014?

teofilodavid -

Great service, great list of tools required, great advice.

I completed this repair in an hour with the step by step guide. I'm a fairly mechanical guy who usually fixes his own appliances and automobiles, so this seemed simple enough up front. The guide made the entire repair straightforward and without any gaps or questions along the way.

bcarlb7 - 返信

For an unknown reason, a small crack appeared in the bottom right corner on my macbook screen. At first colorful lines started showing up but eventually turned into a black band two inches high across the bottom and on the left side a vertical band cutting off an inch reducing my screen from a 13" to a 10.5". I chose to replace the lid assembly after research because it was the simplest, least risky, and most cost effective, even including purchasing the ifixit toolkit. And now I have the tools to fix more stuff.

This guide was very easy to follow forward through disassembly and back through the assembly. Thank you for additional notes for assembly. The pictures and directions made this very easy to execute and prevent causing more damage.

Thank you,

Bryan McIntyre - 返信

Ordered a screen and tools, received them in the Netherlands in only 2 days. Excellent!

Completed this repair, within 50 mins. Guide was very clear. Battery did not need removal. Two minor issues... despite buying the more expensive A quality screen, there is visible and drop damage on the corner of the outside cover.

Secondly, one of the WiFi antenna wires had been removed slightly uncarefully, meaning that it required some finessing before it could be fitted to the WiFi board antenna connector.

Peter van Es - 返信

Thanks for the comment Peter! We have passed your comment along to the iFixit Customer Support Team. An iFixit representative will be reaching out to you shortly regarding the issue. If you need to contact our support team in the future, you may reach them here: help.ifixit.com

Christopher Fernandes -

Hi, I just bought a used MacBook Pro on eBay, which is in perfect condition apart from 3 small chips in the display, which considering that the machines main use is photography, they can make pixel level image adjustments difficult.

I was looking into getting the used part from iFixit and am a bit confused. With the cable in the iSight camera which is glued to the fan, would there be replacement adhesive on the 'A grade' used part?

Thanks!

Henry Alekna - 返信

With my "A-stock" display there was no adhesive on the camera cable. It wasn't a problem though, because there was some slight adhesive left on the fan shroud from the original cable I pulled off. Doesn't seem to get in the way of anything either way, just lets Apple keep things tidy.

Brandon Goranson -

Thanks Brandon, I will keep that in mind when I do the repair. Thanks for mentioning that you had scratches on an A stock part, from what I have read recently, it further supports my decision to look elsewhere for the part as the postage from America to Australia isn't cheap.

Henry Alekna -

Hi Henry,

I've read your comments and I'd like to ask you if you are considering selling the screen you'll take out of the computer?

Kalman Benics -

Hi Kalman,

Probably best not to, my one actually got knocked against the seat in front of me on a flight a few days back, and it now occasionally gets parallel lines running down the screen, which is one of the first warning signs of failure. I probably won't have the time to replace it until next month anyway, so hopefully it holds out until then.

Henry Alekna -

Guide was great, fixing my display was easy.

That said, the screws in steps 15 and 16 were T9 for me, not T8. Not great if someone buys just the tools they need, and not a kit like I did. (Kit's fantastically amazing, by the way!)

Main bummer: bought an "A-stock" display from iFixit and it has a 5 inch scratch on the back. Still works but I would have expected that to be B-stock.

Brandon Goranson - 返信

Hi Brandon - would you please share what exactly the model of your MBP was? I'm preparing to open mine, and wondering if I should prepare a T9 instead of T8.

kwaya -

MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Mid 2014)

I don't know if yours would be the same but one thing to consider is if you don't plan on keeping the screwdriver/bit then maybe go with the T8 to be safe. It will turn the T9 screw, just not a perfect fit. I don't think it would strip it so long as you're careful. It's a pretty solid screw and torx aren't prone to stripping.

Brandon Goranson -

I followed all the steps to replace my MacBook display, but after installing the new display, when I turn on my mac the screen is all black and won't show anything. The MacBook makes the turning on sound but nothing shows. I connected an hdmi from my tv to the Mac to make sure it wasn't anything that got messed up in the process. Every came up on the tv perfectly but nothing on the screen. Could it be a cable that I didn't connect properly or is it the display that came with problem?

I purchased the screen on eBay and followed the instructions written here.

Algenis Feliz - 返信

I would definitely crack it back open and check the connectors. Could be the display unit but it's worth checking for sure. Good luck.

Brandon Goranson -

I did, it ended up being the display that came damaged. I already returned it and ordered a new one from ifixit, just waiting for it to get in the mail.

Thanks

Algenis Feliz -

Is this P/N: 661-8153? Came from the Apple Service Center with a humongous quoted repair price. I'm looking at replacing it myself. Thanks.

goodspeed1 - 返信

I don't know the Apple part number unfortunately, but you'll find the correct part linked at the top of the guide.

Jeff Suovanen -

I dropped and damaged the lower right corner of the display of my mid 2014 iBook pro 13 inch.The damage resulted in a malfunctioning display. I ordered the A-stock replacement and used overnight shipping. The display was packed well and arrived on time and as described, in perfect condition. I found the repair guide to be comprehensive and easy to follow. I appreciate the wonderful guides you provide and the excellent part service. Besides saving some money, I was able to get up and running within 24hrs and have the fun and satisfaction of repairing it myself!

kskinner - 返信

Great guide had it done in 16 minutes.

John Pastor Jr - 返信

Thank you ifixit. Just replaced the screen on my 14 year old granddaughters MacBook Pro Retina. She is going to be so happy since the screen has been cracked since November of 2016. Your instructions were very easy to follow and makes me look like a genius. (:

James Brichta - 返信

Sam, congrats to these instructions ! You could not have done any better. Feels like magic - its so easy. And its really fun to repair things

following your excellent steps!! Thank you very much !

Oberschrauber - 返信

Absolutely good and informative instructions.

One add-on: screws in Step 15 and 16 may be very tight to remove, need a T8 Torx screw with a large handle, or some gripping treatment to avoid slippery.

Xun - 返信

My display was cracked but still worked. I followed these instructions to replace it and it was very simple, however the screen did not turn on. I double checked the connections and it still would not display. I thought maybe I just purchased a bad display. I reattached my old display and it will no longer turn on. Any ideas?

Gonzo Neko (KitiClub) - 返信

I did hesitate quite longtime before I decide to give this a try because I am a complete novice and never opened a computer not even to remove dust. I finally decided because little by little I have lost too much of my screen. Well, I was afraid I wouldn’t understand some passages and I’d make some bad mistake. But the guide is so perfectly detailed, little step by little step, that it was finally even fun to do it. I was able to have my mac on the run again in about 35 minutes. So cool. Thanks a lot guys!

alemari - 返信

Fantastic instructions. Very well done. One suggestion: a compressed air canister for dust removal.

David Carlson - 返信

Hi, i have a questions, i have a MBP 2015 and i have to change the display the disp on a MPB 2013-2014 work on the 2015 ?

Edhys Santos - 返信

I found out that you can swap the displays and it will work, but with some issues.

What I encountered so far, is that:

- When turning on the MacBook the Apple logo and loading bar screen will show after a couple of seconds.

- Sometimes the backlight will lock up and will not increase/decrease, this can easily be fixed by “sleeping your screen”, then turning it back on, i set that the lower left corner of the desktop will sleep my screen, so whenever i have this issue i just roll the cursor to that corner.

iSight camera, bluetooth and WiFi works perfectly.

Robert G -

Someone please help! I replaced the display assembly… And, now the brightness/dimmer button and the keyboard light buttons do not work. What did I do wrong? Any particular cables I should we reseat? It’s strange because the rest of the keyboard works fine and the brightness/dimmer buttons register on the screen when I click them but the screen only becomes more pale/lighter in color saturation but not brightness. The keyboard light buttons don’t register and show a square box with a line through it. Not sure what I did wrong .. Would appreciate any advice, please!

Victor Bui - 返信

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