はじめに

このガイドを使ってトラックパッドを交換します。

上部ケースと底ケースを留めている次の10本のネジを外します。
  • 上部ケースと底ケースを留めている次の10本のネジを外します。

    • 2.3 mmペンタローブネジ−2本

    • 3.0 mmペンタローブネジー8本

For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

Carlos - 返信

Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

Fredrik -

Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

Alex Birkett - 返信

Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

addvariety -

the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

Edison - 返信

I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

marketing - 返信

is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

monsieurescargot - 返信

Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

Antoine Thornton - 返信

上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。
  • 上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。

  • ゆっくりと底ケースを上部ケースから離していきます。

コメントを追加する

  • 底ケースは上部ケースと2つのプラスチック製クリップで中央付近に接続されています。

  • 再組み立ての際は、丁寧に底ケースの中央を2つのプラスチック製クリップに接続するように押し込んでください。

There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

wrbandllm - 返信

This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

addvariety - 返信

What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

Tommy Huang - 返信

  • 必要に応じてバッテリーの接続ボードに留められているプラスチック製カバーを外してください。

Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

jodieabc - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。

  • コネクターのみ持ち上げるよう確認しながら作業を進めてください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードに永久的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

jramsey21 - 返信

I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

salvatorebarbera -

Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

andrehedegaard -

Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

Steve - 返信

Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

Vadim Gribanov -

When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

Ethan Tarquin - 返信

Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

Caleb Steinborn -

+1

I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

Jonas Ehrs -

If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

Parth Gudhka - 返信

  • 修理作業中、アクシデントによりソケットがバッテリーコネクターに接続しないよう、折り曲げて邪魔にならない位置に移動させてください。

If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

sebasgaes - 返信

I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

LaymanLab - 返信

That’s a great idea!

David Lilliebridge - 返信

I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

dbrick - 返信

  • ロジックボードの先端に留められた出入力ボードのケーブルブラケットより、2.1 mm T5 トルクスネジを2本取り外します。

At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

Martin Gray - 返信

This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

barak - 返信

After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.

driesverfaillie - 返信

  • 出入力ボードのケーブルブラケットをピンセットで持ち、MacBookから取り出します。

コメントを追加する

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、出入力ボードのコネクターをまっすぐロジックボードのソケットから持ち上げます。

  • 出入力ボードケーブルのみ接触するようにご注意ください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードにダメージを与えてしまう可能性があります。

コメントを追加する

  • 出入力ボードケーブルのロジックボード端をまっすぐに持ち上げて、邪魔にならない位置に折り曲げます。

  • ケーブルにダメージを与えないように、ケーブル上の出入力ボードの端のみを折り曲げてください。

I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.

lamajr - 返信

  • スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の右側のスピーカーケーブル下に差し込み、ロジックボード上のソケットを引き上げます。

Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

barak - 返信

WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!

jiclark - 返信

  • 右側スピーカーケーブルを上部ケースから丁寧に取り出します。

コメントを追加する

  • 上部ケースに右側スピーカーを留めている次のネジを外します。

    • 5.7 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 6.5 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.8 mm T5 トルクスネジー1本

コメントを追加する

  • ケーブルの先端から右側スピーカーを持ち上げてケースから取り出します。

コメントを追加する

  • スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の左側スピーカーケーブル下に差し込み、ロジックボードのソケットからケーブルを持ち上げます。

Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

barak - 返信

  • 上部ケースに留められた左側スピーカーより次のネジを外します。

    • 5.7 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 6.5 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.8 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

コメントを追加する

  • 左側端のスピーカーを持ち上げて、バッテリーから動かし、上部ケースから外します。

  • ケース横にあるネジ穴にスピーカーケーブルを引っかけないようにご注意ください。

コメントを追加する

  • 電子レンジに付着している汚れがiOpenerに付いてしまうことがあるので、使用前に電子レンジの底をきれいに拭き取ってください。

  • iOpenerを電子レンジ中央に置きます。

    • 回転型の電子レンジ:iOpenerが電子レンジのターンテーブルで回転しているか確認してください。iOpenerが作動中に留まってしまうと、熱しすぎや焦げてしまいます。

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - 返信

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

Fredrik -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - 返信

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - 返信

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - 返信

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - 返信

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - 返信

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - 返信

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - 返信

I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

Sherry Carew - 返信

Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

Esmond Pitt - 返信

Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

Regards,

Cedric

Cedric VINCENT - 返信

  • iOpenerを30秒温めます。

  • 修理作業中はiOpenerが冷めてしまいますので、使用毎に電子レンジに30秒入れて温めてからご利用ください。

  • 作業中、iOpenerを温めすぎないようにご注意ください。温めすぎるとiOpenerを破裂させてしまうことがあります。

  • 膨らんでいる状態のiOpenerは絶対に触らないでください。

  • 適切に温められたiOpenerは約10分間、温かい状態を保ちます。

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - 返信

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - 返信

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - 返信

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - 返信

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - 返信

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - 返信

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - 返信

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - 返信

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - 返信

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - 返信

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - 返信

I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

dave - 返信

If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

Patrick Storey - 返信

I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

mark fitzgerald - 返信

30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

K

Karl Marble - 返信

  • 電子レンジからiOpenerを取り出します。iOpenerの中央は熱くなっているため、両端の平面になっている部分を持ってください。

  • iOpenerは大変熱くなっていることがあります。必要であれば、オーブン用のミトンカバーをご利用ください。

Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

Me berg - 返信

Yes, as does a heat gun.

anonymous 4602 - 返信

I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

Cobus de Beer - 返信

  • 上部ケースに留められたバッテリーから3.7 mm T5トルクスネジを5本外します。

In my macbook pro retina, these are some kind of plastic screws. I cannot remove them.

adriendavernas - 返信

The plastic screws just need to be pulled out with a spudger/finger and you're good to go. I have the same model, there's also a screw on the power board not mentioned in this guide, takes a T5 screwdriver/bit

alex - 返信

Question - when putting the new battery back into the case, do we need to remove old glue/add new glue, use no glue at all, or place the battery in and then reheat to melt the old glue so that it will adhere to the new battery? Thanks!

chal740 - 返信

What is the part number for this battery, or where can I find it?

dfreeman110 -

I wish to ask the same question.

vbivanov -

My adhesive didn't have enough tack to hold the battery in. I just reassembled without it and can't hear the batteries moving, but I have the rubber grommets and not screws as MarkB mentioned. Fo future repairers, I'd recommend buying some nonpermanent two sided tape just so you have the option to fasten it in.

Vince Cipriani -

I wish they would find another way of securing the battery, this is ridiculous.

brian whittle - 返信

On each 'corner' of the frame that surrounds the two centre batteries, rather than 'plastic screws' mentioned by adriendavernas there are 'domed' rubber grommets. These presumably rest against the inside of the bottom cover when it is fitted thus supporting the batteries. As there were no screws underneath in these 4 positions, there is no need to remove these grommets. Agree with alex re: removing the extra T5 screw on the power board.

MarkB - 返信

After destroying the adhesive which secures the batteries (bad technique or lack of patience in my effort) what is recommended to secure the batteries when reassembling?

maxB - 返信

I only had the single far right screw to remove.

barak - 返信

My replacement A1582 battery actually had holes for the screws, though my original A1582 battery only had the 'domed' rubber grommets. Anyways, putting in the OEM A1582 battery without anything in the holes worked ok.

Srini Seetharaman - 返信

I wanted to put the rubber grommets on the new battery, so I used tweezers to get them back through the holes on the new battery

Dallin Christensen - 返信

  • iFixitバッテリーキットに付いている液体接着剤リムーバーはMacBook Proのディスプレイの反射防止コートにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

  • ディスプレイを保護するために、作業中はディスプレイとキーボードの間にアルミホイルのシートを被せてください。

コメントを追加する

  • MacBook Proの準備はできました。次に作業をするご自身の準備をしましょう。

  • 代わりに、温めたiOpenerを利用される方は次の3つの手順はスキップしてください。

  • iFixitの接着剤リムーバーは皮膚へのダメージが少なく、目への刺激も低いアセトンを含んでいます。

    • 接着剤リムーバーを使用する際は、必ず保護メガネを着用してください。(保護メガネはキットに同封されています)

    • 保護メガネの着用無しで、コンタクトレンズを装着しないでください。

    • 保護グローブもキットに同封されています。皮膚への刺激を心配される方は、グローブも着用してください。

コメントを追加する

  • 接着剤リムーバーを開封してください。

  • キットに同封されているスポイトに少量(約1–2ml)採取します。

    • 採取しすぎてしまうと、アクシデントで多量のリムーバーが出てしまうため、一回あたり約1–2ml以上採取しないでください。

    • この手順全体で、必要に応じてスポイトにリムーバーを採取します。

Air can tilted upside down to freeze the adhesive works very well also. I just used this method today to pull a battery.

aadeshina - 返信

  • バッテリーセル右側端の底に、約1ml分の接着剤リムーバーを均等に注入します。

  • 液体状の接着リムーバーがバッテリーセルの下に浸透するまで、約2–3分間待機してください。それから次の手順に移ります。

I managed to remove the battery without the adhesive by using the thread technique. More info in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... . Just make sure you have someone to help you and hold the laptop in place for you.

driesverfaillie - 返信

  • 液体状の接着リムーバーをお持ちでない場合は、温めた iOpenerを使って、バッテリーが上部ケースに留められている部分を温め、接着剤を柔らかくします。それからゆっくりとこじ開けていきます。

  • 温めたiOpenerを右側の2つのバッテリーセルの右端を覆うように配置します。

  • 約1分経過したらiOpener を再度温めて右側の2つのバッテリーセルの残り半分が隠れるように配置します。

I did not have an iOpener. I did not fancy using a heat gun on the batteries either so I used two flat metal spudgers to prise them off the body of the mac book. I hit the spudgers with a small hammer.

Alex Birkett - 返信

I popped the freaking iopener in the microwave following this instruction. Said to heat for 30 secs put on for a minute then reheat after that minute. Then read on the iopener that I shouldn't heat more the once unless after two minutes. Just wonderful.

Jennifer Myer - 返信

I used a sock filled with rice and it worked exactly the same. Microwaved it for 2 minutes (hot enough to barely hold) and set it on the batteries as above for 2 minutes.

Then I reheated it for a minute and opened up the laptop, and slide my DYI iOpener under so it was directly under the batteries (across the trackpad portion of the laptop). This worked great because the heat went straight thru the aluminum and softened the adhesive. I ended up letting the screen hang over the edge of the table while I pried the batteries out.

barak - 返信

This heating with the iOpener took me forever. I tried my fair share of heating followed by nudging slowly with a credit card 1 mm at a time. Finally pried it off after 30 mins.

Srini Seetharaman - 返信

  • プラスチックカードを一番右側のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間に押し込みます。バッテリーとケースの間の接着剤を剥がしていきます。

  • この作業中、差し込む際にかなりの抵抗力を感じることがあれば作業を中止して、再度温めたiOpener を該当箇所に配置して温めてください。

  • 温めたiOpenerを使う方法で作業をする場合、こじ開ける作業でかなりの抵抗を感じたら、作業を一旦停止して何度も該当箇所に温めたiOpenerを載せて柔らかくしてください。

In addition to using the wheat bag/iOpener to loosen the batteries, I found it useful each time I inserted the plastic card under the batteries to give the card a 'wipe' with isopropyl alcohol to ensure that it didn't stick to the adhesive holding the batteries down. it also presumably eases the glue away from the batteries somewhat.

MarkB - 返信

Do the same tools and steps work on a MacBook Pro 15" late 2015 model?

Sean - 返信

Heat can be dangerous to Li-Ion batteries, no???

Alex - 返信

Excessive heat can be dangerous, but the iOpener is designed to never get hot enough to cause permanent damage. Using a heat gun or hot plate could be dangerous, but the iOpener method is the safest one we know of =)

Sam Lionheart -

I found it helpful to use some dental floss to help loosen each cell and then pry the rest off with the card

Dallin Christensen - 返信

  • プラスチックカードを使って、底ケースと一番右側のバッテリーセルの間に差し込みます。

コメントを追加する

  • 次のバッテリーでも同じ手順を繰り返してください。

  • バッテリーセル左端の下に、約1ml分の接着剤リムーバーを均等に注入します。液体状の接着リムーバーが浸透するまで、約2–3分間待機してください。

  • もしくは、必要に応じてiOpenerを温めてバッテリーの上に載せます。

  • プラスチックカードを約1インチ(約2.5㎝)ほど、バッテリーセルと上部ケースの間に差し込みます。そして接着剤を剥がしながらゆっくりと持ち上げていきます。

コメントを追加する

  • 上部ケースが右側2つのバッテリーセルが再装着するのを防ぐため、一時的にプラスチックカードを差し込んだままにします。

  • iOpenerを使用する場合は再度温めて載せます。今回は一番左側のバッテリーセルの上に置きます。

  • ここでも、iOpenerを各箇所に約1分間載せます。その間に再度1回温めて、右側から左側のバッテリーセルに移します。

コメントを追加する

  • 上の手順を繰り返して左端2つのバッテリーセルを上部ケースから外します。

    • 各バッテリーセルの下に少量(約1ml)の接着剤リムーバーを均等に注入します。それから接着リムーバーが下に浸透するまで、約2–3分間待機してください。

    • 2枚目のプラスチックカードを使って、上部ケースと左側2つのバッテリーセルの間に差し込みます。

コメントを追加する

  • 2番目に挿入したカードを二つの左側セルの間に挟んだまま次の作業に移ります。

  • 次の手順では、3枚目のカードか右側端に挟んでいるカードを使用してください。この時には、右側端の接着剤は乾燥/冷却しているため、バッテリーセルは簡単に持ち上がるはずです。

コメントを追加する

  • 最後中央にある2つのバッテリーセルと上部セルの間に約1インチ奥までカードを差し込んでください。あついは液体上の接着剤リムーバー(もしくはお持ちの iOpener)を各セルの下に注入します。

    • MacBook Proのどちらか一方を数インチ(5㎝程度)持ち上げると接着剤リムーバーがバッテリーの下で流れ出して広がります。分厚い本やブロックを下に置いて、MacBook Proの作業中安定した土台を作ってください。

    • 左側中央のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間にカードを約1インチ(2.5㎝)差し込み、セルとケースの間の接着剤を剥がします。

My laptop had a strip over these center batteries. I had to remove that before getting the center batteries off.

Srini Seetharaman - 返信

My plastic cards were hitting a black trackpad backing. I thought this was the adhesive not coming off. I also didn’t want to harm the battery and didn’t bring the card up enough.

I found out by going through one of the side batteries, but could have just raised the tip of the card very slightly.

Cameron Malek - 返信

  • カードを取り出して、右側中央のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間にカードを再度約1インチ奥まで差し込み、セルとケースの間の接着剤を剥がします。

コメントを追加する

  • この時までに外側のバッテリーセル2つは外れており、2つの中央のセルでの接着剤による抵抗を感じるでしょう。もしこの状態でない場合は、前の手順に戻り、合計4つのバッテリーセルを上部ケースから完全に緩めてください。

  • 中央の2つのバッテリーセルに留められた残りの接着剤を剥がし、デバイスからバッテリーを持ち上げます。

I found that gentle application from a heat gun works well enough to soften the adhesive. Use a plastic card to help as you go. Use caution not to over heat anything.

John Lerefebvre - 返信

  • バッテリーを上部ケースから取り出します。

  • 新しいバッテリーを装着する前に、MacBook Proのケースから残った接着剤を綺麗に取り出します。

    • 運が良ければ、ゆっくりと指で各接着ストリップを剥がせます。

    • そうでない場合は、各バッテリーセルの下に接着剤リムーバーを少量ずつ付けます。2−3分間待った後、開口ピックやお持ちのツールで接着剤をこすり落とします。この作業には少し忍耐が必要です。

    • 残りのバッテリーセルについても接着剤リムーバーを付けて同じ作業を繰り返します。それからMacBook Proを数分間、空気乾燥させます。

  • 交換用バッテリーはiFixitキットに接着剤と一緒に同封されています。バッテリーの配置やフィット感を丁寧に確認してください。それから接着剤に留められたフィルムを剥がして、バッテリーをしっかりと装着します。もしお持ちのバッテリーに付いていない余分なフィルムやライナーがある場合は、これらを取り外してください。

  • デバイスの使用前に新しいバッテリーの残量を調整してください。一晩置いて0%まで消耗してから一気に100%まで充電します。そして再び、MacBook Proが自動でシャットダウンするまでバッテリーを0%まで消費させます。その後、再充電をした以降は通常通り使用できます。

  • 新しいバッテリーの装着後、何か様子が通常と異なる場合はMacBook ProのSMCをリセットする必要があります。

RECOMMENDATION: The battery connector and associated screw are critical when considering battery alignment. Also don’t forget the left and right speaker assemblies when aligning the two small outer cells. I didn’t consider these and had issues.

Also, keep the transparent top film on the battery to keep the cells aligned with respect to each other, and always support all the cells if handling upside down.

Cameron Malek - 返信

I agree, if you don’t reinstall the speaker assemblies before installing the battery, they may be impossible to put back in after the battery has adhered

Dallin Christensen -

  • iOpenerをトラックパッドカバーのプレートの上に載せ、上部ケースに留められた接着剤を柔らかくします。

  • 作業中、iOpenerを温めすぎないようにご注意ください。iOpenerを再加熱する前に前の作業から少なくとも2分間は開けてください。

コメントを追加する

  • プラスチックの開口ツールを使って、トラックパッドカバーのプレートを上部ケースから丁寧に引き抜きます。

  • プレート上に目に見える折り目を残さないようにゆっくりと丁寧に作業を行ってください。

This adhesive was extremely strong for me and took quite a while to soften up (longer than batteries). I ended up using my wife's blow dryer after the heat pad struggled with it. Just take your time.

Vince Cipriani - 返信

  • 開口ツールを使って、ゆっくりと丁寧に上部ケースからトラックパッドカバーのプレートを剥がします。

コメントを追加する

  • 丁寧にプレートを剥がして取り出します。

コメントを追加する

  • 必要に応じて、トラックパッドのケーブルコネクタを覆っているテープを剥がします。

コメントを追加する

  • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ZIFコネクタ上の固定タブを裏返します。

コメントを追加する

  • トラックパッドのリボンケーブルを基板上のソケットからまっすぐ引き抜きます。

コメントを追加する

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端をリボンケーブルが貫通している上部ケースの開口部下に差し込みます。

  • トラックパッドのリボンケーブルを上部ケースに固定している接着剤を剥がし、トラックパッドのリボンケーブルを外します。

コメントを追加する

  • トラックパッドと上部ケースに留められたトラックパッドブラケットより次のネジを外します。

    • 2.2 mm T5トルクスネジー4本

    • 1.7 mm T5トルクスネジー4本

コメントを追加する

  • ピンセットを使って、上部ケースから2つのトラックパッドマウンティングブラケットを外します。

コメントを追加する

  • ディスプレイに傷をつけないように、デバイスを直角に開き、垂直に立ててください。

  • 丁寧にトラックパッドのリボンケーブルを上部ケースの溝状のカット部分に通してください。

  • 上部ケース上部の奥からトラックパッドを押し上げます。

  • 落ちないように、反対側の手で取り出したトラックパッドを持ちます。

コメントを追加する

  • トラックパッドを上部ケースからゆっくりと引き抜きます。リボンケーブルに引っ掛けないようにご注意ください。

Regarding the re-assembly once the trackpad is back in place, be careful when re-fitting the batteries; the adhesive which takes so long to separate may not hold the batteries to the chassis upon re-fitting. It may be necessary to use thin double-sided foam tape to ensure that the batteries are held firmly in place once again so that vibration does not cause the connections between the batteries to fail.

MarkB - 返信

If your new trackpad won't fit into place, loosen the screw at the bottom, center of the case (you can see it in the step 36 pic). Don't forget to tighten it back up. This screw affects the amount of play and click in the mouse, so fine tune it until the pad clicks to your liking.

Vince Cipriani - 返信

Make sure you have a good fettle with the trackpad before sticking the battery back in, the brackets in 42 and 43 can move slightly and affect the position and function of the trackpad. Ensure you are happy with it all and fasten it in place before you think about the battery. Took me a while to get it sitting just right and true.

Phil Taylor - 返信

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

19 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

100%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! 貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Sam Lionheart

メンバー登録日: 2012年10月18日

327,955 ポイント

1,686のガイドは作成済み

チーム

iFixit iFixit人のメンバー

Community

109 メンバー

6,241のガイドは作成済み

It's also worth mentioning that if your new trackpad doesn't click - there is a T6 torx adjustment screw located dead center of the bottom frame, below the battery (but not underneath it, so battery removal isn't required).

Turning this screw counterclockwise or clockwise will increase or decrease the travel of the trackpad clicking action. When i installed my replacement pad, it was not clicking at all - but turning this screw a bit counterclockwise fixed that problem!

Diver Dave - 返信

Anyone ever noticed problems with keyboard after changing the trackpad?

javdvoort - 返信

Is it possible to replace just the ribbon cable that connects the trackpad to the motherboard?

Alisio - 返信

コメントを追加する

統計データを表示:

過去 24時間: 19

過去 7 日: 176

過去 30 日: 815

今までの合計 35,047