はじめに

Retinaディスプレイ、ディスプレイガラスとiSightカメラアセンブリを交換するにはこの手順を参照ください。

上部ケースと底ケースを留めている次の10本のネジを外します。
  • 上部ケースと底ケースを留めている次の10本のネジを外します。

    • 2.3 mmペンタローブネジ−2本

    • 3.0 mmペンタローブネジー8本

For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

Carlos - 返信

Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

Fredrik -

Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

Alex Birkett - 返信

Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

addvariety -

the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

Edison - 返信

I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

marketing - 返信

is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

monsieurescargot - 返信

Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

Antoine Thornton - 返信

上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。
  • 上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。

  • ゆっくりと底ケースを上部ケースから離していきます。

コメントを追加する

底ケースは上部ケースと2つのプラスチック製クリップで中央付近に接続されています。 再組み立ての際は、丁寧に底ケースの中央を2つのプラスチック製クリップに接続するように押し込んでください。
  • 底ケースは上部ケースと2つのプラスチック製クリップで中央付近に接続されています。

  • 再組み立ての際は、丁寧に底ケースの中央を2つのプラスチック製クリップに接続するように押し込んでください。

There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

wrbandllm - 返信

This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

addvariety - 返信

What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

Tommy Huang - 返信

必要に応じてバッテリーの接続ボードに留められているプラスチック製カバーを外してください。
  • 必要に応じてバッテリーの接続ボードに留められているプラスチック製カバーを外してください。

コメントを追加する

スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。 コネクターのみ持ち上げるよう確認しながら作業を進めてください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードに永久的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。

  • コネクターのみ持ち上げるよう確認しながら作業を進めてください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードに永久的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

jramsey21 - 返信

I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

salvatorebarbera -

Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

andrehedegaard -

Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

Steve - 返信

Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

Vadim Gribanov -

When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

Ethan Tarquin - 返信

Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

Caleb Steinborn -

+1

I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

Jonas Ehrs -

If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

Parth Gudhka - 返信

修理作業中、アクシデントによりソケットがバッテリーコネクターに接続しないよう、折り曲げて邪魔にならない位置に移動させてください。
  • 修理作業中、アクシデントによりソケットがバッテリーコネクターに接続しないよう、折り曲げて邪魔にならない位置に移動させてください。

If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

sebasgaes - 返信

I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

LaymanLab - 返信

That’s a great idea!

David Lilliebridge - 返信

I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

dbrick - 返信

ゴム製のファンバンパーをヒートシンクの端から丁寧に外します。 ファンバンパーはヒートシンクの周りに巻かれて、ファンダクトの小さい溝に付けられています。再組み立ての際は、このタブがファンダクトのノッチにきちんと装着されているか確認してください。 ファンバンパーはヒートシンクの周りに巻かれて、ファンダクトの小さい溝に付けられています。再組み立ての際は、このタブがファンダクトのノッチにきちんと装着されているか確認してください。
  • ゴム製のファンバンパーをヒートシンクの端から丁寧に外します。

  • ファンバンパーはヒートシンクの周りに巻かれて、ファンダクトの小さい溝に付けられています。再組み立ての際は、このタブがファンダクトのノッチにきちんと装着されているか確認してください。

コメントを追加する

アンテナケーブルコネクター付近のアンテナケーブル3本の下にスパッジャーを差し込み、AirPortボードからケーブルを持ち上げます。 3本のケーブルはそれぞれ異なる長さの黒色スリーブでコートされています。再組み立ての際は次の点にご注意ください。 長いスリーブケーブルは中央のソケットに接続してください。
  • アンテナケーブルコネクター付近のアンテナケーブル3本の下にスパッジャーを差し込み、AirPortボードからケーブルを持ち上げます。

  • 3本のケーブルはそれぞれ異なる長さの黒色スリーブでコートされています。再組み立ての際は次の点にご注意ください。

    • 長いスリーブケーブルは中央のソケットに接続してください。

    • 短いスリーブのケーブルはネジの隣に接続します。

    • 最後のケーブルにはスリーブが付けられていません。これをファンの隣のソケットに接続します。

I struggled with reconnecting these, and in the process accidentally ripped the connector away from the wire. Is there anything I can do to reattached it?

Vanessa schroll - 返信

This is most difficult and time consuming portion of this entire procedure. Make sure to lift the connectors straight up - not to damage them. The reconnection of the contacts may take several tries. USE CARE AND BE PATIENT! You will eventually get them to connect.

Darius - 返信

does anyone have advice on what is the best tool to use for reconnecting? this is definitely the hardest step to reassembly

M N - 返信

When reassembling, I used tweezers to line them up and the spudger to push them down.

Joshua Johnson - 返信

thank you Joshua, this helped me get them. they do take a bit of patience but it’s worth taking your time.

Kevin Lynch -

everything else was easy... I still haven't managed to figure this step out... good luck in your repair

M N - 返信

I got it! line the wire up; push the top part of the metal and give it firm pressure; they should snap in and connect

M N - 返信

You'll get 'em in. Work gently. Make sure they're exactly over top the bottom pins. Press down with a flat smudger. It took me a lot of gentle work to get them in.

Kent - 返信

I saw the sleeves on these.. and when looking at the replacement display saw they matched exactly and took the chance it was intentional. The only thing that got me.. was the bottom panel screws.. didn't know there were 3 types.. (should have known though, I mean right?! LOL Apple (rolls eyes) They could do like Samsung and use one screw for everything.. but oh no.. there is some OCD engineer that just likes SCREWING with people!

Tim - 返信

Pro Tip: When reassembling, do not screw on the metal tab attached to these connectors (part of step 15) until after you have all 3 connected. This gives you uninhibited range of motion for the 3 wires. Go slow as other commenters have said. Start with the shortest wire first. Once all 3 are connected, screw on the metal tab with those 2 screws. Finally double check that all 3 are still connected.

D B - 返信

スパッジャーの先端を使って iSight カメラケーブルコネクターの一方を動かし、ロジックボード上のソケットから接続を外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って iSight カメラケーブルコネクターの一方を動かし、ロジックボード上のソケットから接続を外します。
  • スパッジャーの先端を使って iSight カメラケーブルコネクターの一方を動かし、ロジックボード上のソケットから接続を外します。

コメントを追加する

iSightカメラケーブルを内蔵しているファンから剥がします。 iSightカメラケーブルを内蔵しているファンから剥がします。
  • iSightカメラケーブルを内蔵しているファンから剥がします。

コメントを追加する

黒色のプラスチックタブを掴み、ディスプレイケーブルコネクターを裏返して開き、ロジックボードのソケットからまっすぐ引っ張ります。 再組み立ての間、ディスプレイコネクターのタブを完全に装着したか確認してください。 再組み立ての間、ディスプレイコネクターのタブを完全に装着したか確認してください。
  • 黒色のプラスチックタブを掴み、ディスプレイケーブルコネクターを裏返して開き、ロジックボードのソケットからまっすぐ引っ張ります。

  • 再組み立ての間、ディスプレイコネクターのタブを完全に装着したか確認してください。

This is pulled straight out to the side of the Macbook, not up.

nmackaron - 返信

Thanks for adding this comment !

jrbhome - 返信

Please use a nylon black stick to lift the lock bar up and push the connection apart reason being is the lock bar should not be pulled on and by pulling on it like shown may cause damage to the MLB/DISPLAY connection and then you’re into not just a display repair but a MLB on top of it!!!

Dutchie - 返信

hello, im trying to do this because im experiencing a blackscreen problem. Id like to do this but my macbook looks so different than this one. Could anyone help me?

Karla Díaz - 返信

If it doesn’t look like this, you’re looking at the wrong guide.

maccentric -

ゴム製の丁番カバーを左右ディスプレイの丁番から外します。 ゴム製の丁番カバーを左右ディスプレイの丁番から外します。 ゴム製の丁番カバーを左右ディスプレイの丁番から外します。
  • ゴム製の丁番カバーを左右ディスプレイの丁番から外します。

コメントを追加する

MacBookの両側のアルミニウム製丁番ブラケットに留められた4.2 mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。 MacBookの両側のアルミニウム製丁番ブラケットに留められた4.2 mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。
  • MacBookの両側のアルミニウム製丁番ブラケットに留められた4.2 mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。

I found these to be very tight and wasnt able to move them with the ifixt screwdriver kit, i had to get a t-handle torx 9 bit to move them

harveyhalfpint - 返信

Yes they were tight but I managed to shift them with the iFixit screwdriver set

Steven Fillingham - 返信

This is 1 screw on each side (not 2 on each side). They are circled in red.

nmackaron - 返信

The T5 in the set I bought from LaptopScreen.com was too big and started to strip these screws. Got an Ace Hardware brand one instead and it worked great.

Brian Hultin - 返信

ピンセットを使って、アルミ製丁番ブラケットを左右のディスプレイ丁番から持ち上げます。 再組み立ての際は、MacBook中央にあるアルミ製レールに対してブラケットが垂直の向きになるように装着します。 再組み立ての際は、MacBook中央にあるアルミ製レールに対してブラケットが垂直の向きになるように装着します。
  • ピンセットを使って、アルミ製丁番ブラケットを左右のディスプレイ丁番から持ち上げます。

  • 再組み立ての際は、MacBook中央にあるアルミ製レールに対してブラケットが垂直の向きになるように装着します。

コメントを追加する

上部ケースにディスプレイを留めている5.3 mm T8トルクスネジを4本(両側に2本ずつ)外します。 あるモデルによっては、T8ではなくT9のトルクスネジを使用しているものがあります。
  • 上部ケースにディスプレイを留めている5.3 mm T8トルクスネジを4本(両側に2本ずつ)外します。

    • あるモデルによっては、T8ではなくT9のトルクスネジを使用しているものがあります。

Does these three screws are the same size? Can i mix use these screws during the installing process?

Michael Kwok - 返信

MacBook Proを画像にあるように、テーブル上に片方サイドを縦にして90度以上開きます。 ディスプレイを左手で押さえながら、残りのT8トルクスネジを上部ディスプレイブラケットから外します。
  • MacBook Proを画像にあるように、テーブル上に片方サイドを縦にして90度以上開きます。

  • ディスプレイを左手で押さえながら、残りのT8トルクスネジを上部ディスプレイブラケットから外します。

  • ディスプレイと上部ケースがきちんと固定されている箇所で作業を行ってください。不安定な場所での作業は落下してしまう原因となりコンポーネントにダメージを与えてしまいます。

  • 上部ケースに留められたディスプレイから最後のT8トルクスネジを取り出します。

コメントを追加する

右手で上部ケースを持ち、時計周りにディスプレイ上側に向かってデバイスを回します。するとディスプレイケーブルと上部ケースの端が離れます。 ディスプレイをわずかに上部ケースから離します。 ブラケットやケーブルが絡まないように注意しながら、上部ケースからディスプレイを引っ張りながら離します。
  • 右手で上部ケースを持ち、時計周りにディスプレイ上側に向かってデバイスを回します。するとディスプレイケーブルと上部ケースの端が離れます。

  • ディスプレイをわずかに上部ケースから離します。

  • ブラケットやケーブルが絡まないように注意しながら、上部ケースからディスプレイを引っ張りながら離します。

When replacing the display assembly with a new one, the new hinges may be very hard to move into the 90 degree position. We found it helpful to loop a paperclip into the screw hole of the hinge to facilitate pulling open the hinge.

Eric - 返信

Yes also found the hinges to be extremely tight, could not move them with from their initial position with fingers, ended up using a pair of pliers to rotate them enough to get fingers under them

Steven Fillingham - 返信

Are there any cheaper replacement screens? If so I need to know. My parents still haven't found out and I don't make a ton of money...

Haley Hildreth - 返信

The paper clip is a great tip. I also used the spudger flat end under the hinge and the metal side of the case as leverage to push it up.

D B - 返信

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

105 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

100%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! 貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Sam Lionheart

メンバー登録日: 2012年10月18日

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I've been browsing guides to this model and I don't get how in this one on Youtube the laptop looks completely different, although it also claims to be A1502. Either one of them is a different model or I'm really missing something?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lL4gpfcb...

Marina Gorobevskaya - 返信

Unfortunately the A1502 number isn't an exclusive model number, several devices share it, the internal differences between them vary. The more telling number is the EMC number, which tends to me more exclusive to unique devices.

Sam Lionheart -

After a closer look they actually seem to be the same, I just got confused by the video being a lot less detailed than this walkthrough. I just replaced the screen of my macbook following this guide (yay!) without any previous experience of fixing macbooks, though I must admit I assembled a few desktops at the dawn of the millennium. The only slight problem I encountered was that the main display cable wouldn't lie flat enough in that corner, it kept sticking out, and even after screwing the lid on the gap at that corner seems to be a tiny bit wider. But the laptop is working anyway.

Thank you Sam for posting this guide! It saved me a lot of time and money. Being in China I bought the display assembly on Taobao for $250US whereas the shop repair estimate that I got was around $400.

If anyone is still having doubts - you can do it!

Marina Gorobevskaya -

The guide is very helpful. I managed to replace my screen within 1 hour. I bought my screen from ifixit too! the product is genuine and in good condition although it says that it has been used before! Highly recommended!

henrycwc - 返信

Can you replace just the LCD without the clamshell bezel and cables?

rickcostel - 返信

Kind of. In most laptops the lcd assembly is a separate unit that can be replaced. In these the top case serves as the lcd assembly.

But you can replace just the lcd polarizer. It is much more difficult than replacing the whole display assembly, as the diffuser panel which is directly behind the polarizer is very fragile.

This video provides a guide on how you can do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOS-rjvn...

elec1cele -

I managed to replace the display assembly pretty smoothly and got a cool video out of it! For anyone interested in watching a 2-minute time-lapse version, you can watch it here: (https://youtu.be/BHhpoG-0_oI)

bexoro - 返信

Great guide. I was able to complete this in 45 mins with a 4 year old running around the table I was working on. Thanks for a thorough guide. Also bought the screen from ifixit and it looks great.

searnold - 返信

Excellent guide! Completed it in about 20 minutes and everything works now!

Vsevolod Kamnev - 返信

Great guide, easy to follow.

Replacement display from iFixit had the brackets folded down towards the screen, had to unfold them carefully with pliers.

Take note - the black hinge cover (the bulge on the display assembly) shifts left and right. Make sure to adjust it dead center when assembling. Also make sure to align display with bottom case perfectly before tightening down the bracket screws.

Leonid - 返信

good guide replaced my screen no major issues, reattaching the three small cables was the trickiest bit and definitely needed care.

nikolas hodges - 返信

To reinstall the new display, do you just follow the instructions backwards?

Tee - 返信

A great guide, I spent around an hour to complete removal and install of new display (from iFixit), its cheaper than getting Apple repaired and results in a great quality fix, my daughter is over the moon. I chose the B grade screen and its great, not sure what scratches they are referring to :)

Steven Fillingham - 返信

Followed this guide and mine turned out AMAZING. So happy I didn't spend the $500-$600 to have someone else fix it. Literally spent less than an hour to do it all. I would highly recommend buying the needed tools for it .

Shane Hennessy - 返信

Am I wrong or it is not possible to replace the front-glass only (without the LCD), on the A1502 Model ? (late 2013) ?

I cannot find the front-glass for this model on the internet... any idea where I can find it ?

Clement Bouchardeau - 返信

I need to replace the hinge connected to the display assembly, would that be possible?

Sokar599 - 返信

Brilliant guide as usual all done in half an hour. Worth noting that I could not adjust the brightness at first but a PRAM reset sorted that out nicely.

Thank you.

MattOckendon - 返信

Just did the same repair.. I am also having display brightness issues but already tried PRAM and SMC resets. Brightness works under Bootcamp but not macOS... any ideas? A third party utility I downloaded allows me to control brightness but I really should be able to use the brightness adjustment keys. Lastly, the 1440x900 display resolution option is gone as well. Stuck with 1024x600 or 1280x800 (default but highest resolution option I have).

Santiago Moreno -

Step 15, Does these three screws are the same size? Can i mix use these screws during the installing process?

Michael Kwok - 返信

Thanks for the very detailed guide. Replacing the screen worked like a charm! But I have a problem: My screen does not turn on. I can hear the start-up sound but the display only shows a black light. By connecting an external screen via HDMI and closing the lid I can boot normally. I tried PRAM and SMC reset, but neither helped. I switched back to the old/half broken screen and it turned on normally. Any idea what I could do next?

Sonopha - 返信

Hi, it’s me again. I managed to make it work. It seems that one of the connectors were not connected in the right way. I did not do anything different but switched once back to the old screen and then to the new one again, and it is working. I suspect the one from step 11. I read in other forums that the display connector can be a problem. Thanks for this wonderful guide!

Sonopha -

Super Anleitung. Ich hab es auf den ersten Anlauf geschafft. Danke

Theater Salz und Pfeffer - 返信

My display is fine but my cable appear to be broken. It only works at certain angles. Is there any way I can avoid replacing the whole screen?

Jerry G. - 返信

Excellent, thought I’d killed my screen by dropping the ‘book, but all I needed to do was reseat the main cable. THANKS!!

Benspamm - 返信

This is a great guide! Managed to complete removing the display assembly in less than 20 minutes. Any leads on how to fix/replace a broken lcd? Can that be done? or does one need to replace the entire display assembly?

Mitalee Parikh - 返信

How can I know if my laptop would need a t9 or t8 for step 15??

Ali Asadian - 返信

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