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MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換

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  1. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換, 底ケース: 手順 1、 1の画像 1
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    • 上部ケースと底ケースを留めている次の10本のネジを外します。

    • 2.3 mm P5ペンタローブネジ−2本

    • 3.0 mm P5ペンタローブネジー8本

    • この修理では、各ネジの装着位置をメモ書きして管理してください。再組み立ての際は、デバイスにダメージを与えないよう、正しい場所に装着してください。

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 返信

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 返信

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - 返信

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - 返信

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - 返信

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - 返信

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - 返信

    Installation of replacement AirPort card was easier than I had expected thanks to this guide. Thank you.

    chaslaw - 返信

    I use replaced SSD and it was super easy and working great. I can finally upgrade Mac OS with plenty of room to spare and no more low memory alerts. Well worth investment and didn’t have to buy new laptop

    Pete James - 返信

    It's interesting that this tutorial is rated Moderate even though you need to remove the battery. The battery removal tutorial which is basically the same but with fewer steps is rated Difficult.

    Marv Ruona - 返信

    when i pulled the screws out i arranged them in the same way they were in. the top 2 middle screws appeared to be shorter than the rest. in order to keep them in place i got a square of packing tape sticky side up, taped both sides down with 2 other pieces of tape. and then put the screws head down in the order i pulled them.

    Jason Wade - 返信

    Excellent instructions although checking battery and speakers aligned before fixing batteries into place is essential. MacBook good as new!

    John Foreman - 返信

    I find it helpful to spread a soft, slightly fuzzy cloth (like flannel) over my workspace before doing something with small parts. It keeps screws and things from rolling or bouncing away. A towel might be too plush, though, as a screw might get lost in it.

    Richard KeslerWest - 返信

    I cannot get the two screws (that are different than the other ones) out and now they’re stripped. Any idea what to do without using a drill?

    Honeybee94 - 返信

    DO NOT REMOVE SPEAKER CABLES!! The connectors are fragile. Just remove speakers and bend attached cable away from battery. Same for trackpad cable connector at front side. This cable crosses the middle of the battery. Just remove the one connector on the back side - leave front side connector attached and fold cable toward front of computer out of way of battery.

    Paul Lebow - 返信

  2. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 2、 1の画像 1
    • 上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。

    • ゆっくりと底ケースを上部ケースから離していきます。

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 返信

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - 返信

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - 返信

  3. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 3、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 3、 2の画像 2
    • 底ケースは上部ケースと2つのプラスチック製クリップで中央付近に接続されています。

    • 再組み立ての際は、丁寧に底ケースの中央を2つのプラスチック製クリップに接続するように押し込んでください。

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 返信

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    If you’re doing an iFixIt battery replacement, the replacement battery has two rubber nubs which are right where the clips are that receive these studs. Folks have been saying it’s hard to get the studs to clip back in after replacement, and I had the same issue. I trimmed the top of these rubber nubs, which are a bit bigger than those on the original battery, with some side cutters. That made the fit much better.

    Rob Gorbet - 返信

  4. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換, バッテリーコネクター: 手順 4、 1の画像 1
    • 必要に応じてバッテリーの接続ボードに留められているプラスチック製カバーを外してください。

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - 返信

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - 返信

    Dear Sir,

    as you seem to be very much experienced with battery replacements you might perhaps give me a hint why after having removed the battery pack successfilly, the keyboard doesn't work anymore after booting the system. The Touchpad works, the keyboard backlight works but typing does not function at all.

    I only disconnected the battery connector and touched nothing else. I am quite desperate …

    Gerd Uyan -

    I agree with Dave la Rose, provided you use heat rather than solvent to remove the old battery (or possibly floss, haven’t done that). Please see my comment further down this thread on how to use an iOpener for correctly heating the glue joint

    I. Margaronis - 返信

    After removing battery contact board plastic. My screwdriver accidentally fell and touched the battery board. And it short circuited. Now my battery doesn't charge. My laptop doesn't work without charger now. shuts after a few minutes of use. Can i fix it without sending it for repairs?

    Phillip Ngwenya - 返信

    Is replacing the battery necessary?

    Ralph Louis - 返信

    How do we know if it's necessary to replace the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board?

    What are the factors that would require that?

    Lux - 返信

  5. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 5、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 5、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。

    • コネクターのみ持ち上げるよう確認しながら作業を進めてください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードに永久的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 返信

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 返信

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 返信

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - 返信

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - 返信

    Thank you Richie I was trying to lift the socket.

    be careful the little square block is actually made of 2 parts and you only have to lift the upper part as Richie said

    ilyes - 返信

    You can do it from the side like the picture, but i would recommend twisting almost like a screw driver once you have leverage under the overhanging part of the left side like in the picture. Twist the tool so that it starts to put pressure on the top, until you’ll hear it click out. You can be somewhat forceful but it shouldn’t require a lot of strength. Guiding the tool with one hand and twisting with the other is a good way to attempt this.

    Colin Nowers - 返信

    After I put the battery back I found out at this step that the new battery connector was off by 2 mm (because I installed my battery slightly off). Since the connector is rigid, I removed it’s plastic cover (just like we all did in Step 4) to free the cable, which allowed me to bent it enough to properly plug the connector.

    Marc - 返信

    Simple question: why we need to do this, I mean, disconnect battery from main board?

    Bin Zhu - 返信

    Well, I’m reading this step in the battery replacement repair guide, so it’s pretty critical to disconnect the battery from the main board. I’m guessing these steps are reused in other guides where disconnecting the battery might not be such an obvious need.

    surf -

    Also wondering the same. I came here from a link to replace the fan. Is it necessary to disconnect the battery inorder to replace the fan?

    Chris Andrews -

    The connector wires from the battery to the connector are long

    You'll have to bend them downward and into the small cove that exists so the connector can fit in place.
    So use the a plastic card or flat end of the spudger to bend them downward and folded a bit back so the connector will fit in place.
    Use your old battery as a guide for how they should be bent.

    RON BUENO - 返信

    Hi All ,

    I followed the instructions step by step and changed the board successfully and reconnected everything back. When I powered it back on I can see it is charging again however it just displays a black screen and no display. Keyboard light comes on as well and the apple logo light on the back lid also turns on. Not sure what is wrong ? It has been charging for more than 15 minutes and still no joy. Anyone able to help solve or identify the issue .

    Thanks

    Kaleem - 返信

    The connector cover is slightly wider and longer than the socket (<1mm) so there is a small "lip" around the top that can be used to lift it.

    Richard KeslerWest - 返信

    If your are not familiar with those repairs, and as with most of those connections, I recommend to take the time to observe your computer and the pictures from the tutorial, reading instructions and comments before starting each step. This battery connector needs both a bit of force and of precision. For a battery repair the connection of the new battery is a bit more tricky, you need to have your battery in the right position and to force it a bit the connector

    David Obis - 返信

  6. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 6、 1の画像 1
    • 修理作業中、アクシデントによりソケットがバッテリーコネクターに接続しないよう、折り曲げて邪魔にならない位置に移動させてください。

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 返信

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 返信

    @sebasgaes, shoot, I'm only part way through the process, but I skipped this step thinking it wasn't necessary. I'm only through step 12 right now, but is there a fix if my machine doesn't recognize the wifi hardware after I've put it all back together? I don't see reference to the "I/O board cable" anywhere else in the instructions, so I'm confused about your mention of that...

    jiclark - 返信

    UPDATE: I completed the job, rebooted, and all is well, wifi and all. Thanks anyway; gotta love iFixIt!!

    jiclark -

  7. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換, 右側スピーカー: 手順 7、 1の画像 1
    • ロジックボードの先端に留められた出入力ボードのケーブルブラケットより、2.1 mm T5 トルクスネジを2本取り外します。

    At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

    Martin Gray - 返信

    This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

    barak - 返信

    After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.

    driesverfaillie - 返信

    While it may not be necessary to remove the left and right speakers, doing so will make it much easier to get at (and under) the end batteries and their adhesive pads. Also, by removing the speakers, you also get them out of harm’s way while you wrestle with loosening the batteries’ adhesives.

    I recommend removing the speakers and their connectors as described in the iFixit instructions.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    I did this step when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” so it would be easier to access the speaker connector

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    I agree that moving the speakers out of the way makes battery removal easier but I didn’t disconnect the right speaker, just removed the screws and folded it back out of the way. I disconnected and removed the left speaker as instructed below.

    Jim Turney - 返信

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - 返信

    I am not sure why I was even bothering with touching the speakers at all. Since April I have done at least another dozen 13” battery replacements. You simply do not need to touch the speakers for any reason, and, in fact, touching introduces unnecessary risk.

    This whole procedure of replacing the battery may easily be done in about 20 minutes.

    davelarose - 返信

    davelarose keeps saying not to remove the speakers, but he is using hot air method. If you are trying to remove the battery using adhesive remover you won’t be able to get the right angle with the spudger if you leave the speakers in, without risking damaging them. I didn’t remove any of the speaker connectors however and just undid the speaker screws and moved the speakers up out of the way temporarily, this worked well.

    Ashley Mills - 返信

    i had a random philips screw wedged between the IO connector and the battery? i dont know if this was a manufacture mistake or what. i didnt put the screw back in because i felt like it was there by mistake.

    Jason Wade - 返信

    I used the rice-filled sock method for warming up the adhesive (see step 23 - thanks barak) but still needed to pry up the cells. As Ashley Mills said, I needed to remove the speakers to get under the battery and lift it from the front, rather than from the logic board side. It was easy to loosen the speakers, but be careful on the left side as the cable runs under a screw post for the bottom cover (the left side in normal use position - it might be turned around for this).

    Richard KeslerWest - 返信

    Reading the comments before starting a battery repair, I decided to use the heat method instead of the solvent and skipped steps 8-9-10-11-12. It was still necessary to remove the speakers, but you can let them connected, provided they are "bent" out of the way when you work to remove the battery. For the IO connector you may want to remove it if you need to use a card in this area to remove the battery and you are afraid to damage it. It was not necessary in may case. The solvent was still useful to remove traces of glue.

    David Obis - 返信

  8. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 8、 1の画像 1
    • 出入力ボードのケーブルブラケットをピンセットで持ち、MacBookから取り出します。

    Totally unnecessary step…

    davelarose - 返信

    Why did I have to do this step?

    Diane St John - 返信

    Good question… I don’t understand it.

    Lilian Valverde - 返信

    I also did not remove this connector for a successful battery repair using the heat method

    David Obis - 返信

  9. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 9、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 9、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、出入力ボードのコネクターをまっすぐロジックボードのソケットから持ち上げます。

    • 出入力ボードケーブルのみ接触するようにご注意ください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードにダメージを与えてしまう可能性があります。

    This step is not required.

    davelarose - 返信

    This step was not necessary for a successful battery repair using the heat method in my case

    David Obis - 返信

  10. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 10、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 10、 2の画像 2
    • 出入力ボードケーブルのロジックボード端をまっすぐに持ち上げて、邪魔にならない位置に折り曲げます。

    • ケーブルにダメージを与えないように、ケーブル上の出入力ボードの端のみを折り曲げてください。

    I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.

    Macrepair SF - 返信

    What is the strip sticking out from behind the battery at the top right middle?? How do I reconnect that?? I think that's why my battery isn't working. I was going to get to the Trac pad until I realized how big a job it is. Just want to fix this connection and put it back the way it was :(

    numbers - 返信

    Besser: Das Kabel kann leicht an beiden Enden gelöst und dann herausgenommen werden. Dann ist es nicht im Weg.

    Karsten Franke - 返信

    Don’t perform this step. I have zero idea why it is in this guide…

    davelarose - 返信

    This step was not necessary for my successful battery repair using the heat method. My guess to include this step is that you may damage the IO connector at a later stage if you need to use a card in this area to remove the center battery cells. These were very well glued in my case, so it is true you need to work a lot with 2 cards, but I was able to unglue them from the sides

    David Obis - 返信

  11. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 11、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 11、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の右側のスピーカーケーブル下に差し込み、ロジックボード上のソケットを引き上げます。

    Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

    barak - 返信

    WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!

    jiclark - 返信

    Put the spudger under the very centre where you see the cutout and be gentle !! It does in fact pry upward the wire itself is very fragile.

    Mmm ttt - 返信

    I used the flat end of the spudger and tried to match the width of the connector, while applying gentle upward pressure to pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    The key to accomplishing this step easily and without danger to the socket… is to follow the instruction (and the picture) PRECISELY by placing the spudger flat end under the CABLE (not the connector). Lifting the CABLE easily removes the connector from the socket without getting anywhere near the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    Seconding barak’s comment, no need to disconnect the speaker cables, keep them attached and just swing the brackets out of the way.

    Julio Garcia - 返信

    Barak is absolutely correct.

    DO NOT DO THIS STEP…

    davelarose - 返信

    I thought I was prying the cable connector, but was prying the socket that was attached to the circuit board. It bent the connector a bit, but I was able to push it back into place. If you do this step, lift at the cable, not the connector. Better yet, just unscrew the speakers and leave the cable connected.

    rmcauley - 返信

    I did need to remove both speakers in order to get the battery out. The speakers covered the outermost battery cells slightly. I did not disconnect them, just moved them out of the way.

    Nicole - 返信

    This step was not necessary for a battery repair using the heat method. You can keep the connectors attached, just unscrew the speakers and put them aside by bending slightly the connectors. Just be careful when working to remove the glue with a card, you may need to apply a bit of force, so make sure not to damage the speakers wires

    David Obis - 返信

  12. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 12、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 12、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 12、 3の画像 3
    • 右側スピーカーケーブルを上部ケースから丁寧に取り出します。

    Why? Why does this step exist?

    Fiddling with these small cables is a poor idea if not required…

    davelarose - 返信

    For a battery repair with the heat method, as indicated in other comments on prior steps, you may skip this step, just unscrew the speaker and put it away when working on the battery

    David Obis - 返信

  13. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 13、 1の画像 1
    • 上部ケースに右側スピーカーを留めている次のネジを外します。

    • 5.7 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 6.5 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.8 mm T5 トルクスネジー1本

    Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    No. Just no! Another unneeded step…

    davelarose - 返信

    In my opinion it made it easier to move these out of the way when removing the batteries, though not strictly necessary. Definitely don't need to disconnect the speakers. Also be careful on reassembly that where the battery adheres doesn't interfere with the space needed to put these back.

    Hodi Schnee - 返信

  14. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 14、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 14、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2013 の右側スピーカーの交換: 手順 14、 3の画像 3
    • ケーブルの先端から右側スピーカーを持ち上げてケースから取り出します。

    There may be some adhesive securing the cable - work it loose with a spudger before removal.

    Bob Kemp - 返信

    Very clear step by step tutorial as usual. I removed both of my MBP 2013 speakers and it was just fine. My laptop sounds like the first day now (with genuine used speakers) Thanks?

    pticrounchi@orange.fr - 返信

    Unless you are replacing the speakers, DO NOT do this step, you are risking damage without reason…

    davelarose - 返信

    I’ve replaced both speakers, but now it sounds terrible. Any suggestions on why that’s the case? (supposing it’s not the new speakers’ fault that is).

    Jan - 返信

    grazie e' stata una guida utilissima

    fatto tutto ok

    funzionano nuovamente bene i due altoparlanti.

    sauro pagni - 返信

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

64 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

en jp

100%

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5人の作成者と共同で作成されました。

Sam Goldheart

メンバー登録日: 10/18/12

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8 件のコメント

Easy to follow guide! completed the installation within half an hour. Thanks guys :)

Jeevan Kumar - 返信

Parfait. Comptez 30 min au total. Merci

Jacques Krief - 返信

I bought all the suggested tools and parts and changed both the left and the right speaker on my wifes Mac Book Pro in 30 minutes. Fantastic guide and site for fixing things. I will come back to this site in the future for DIY repairs. Thank you.

Jodel Manning - 返信

On point, simple and complete, thanks

sintobeanrv - 返信

Waaay too easy — thx!

Bruce Coffman - 返信

Grazie mille, Ottima guida!

Chiara Di Gregorio - 返信

Easy to follow. Thanks!!

Obed Ruiz - 返信

Any idea where I can buy one 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw? Stripped that one... not finding it via Amazon or a Google search.

Christian C - 返信

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