• Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

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Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
  • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

  • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

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  • The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips.

  • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

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  • Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

This plastic cover wasn’t included with the new battery so I placed the original one back in. Was it supposed to go back in? This detail wasn’t clear since the original cover didn’t fit exactly over the newer battery connector. Plus any stickiness of adhesive that may have been there was gone.

arnolfo santoro - 返信

  • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:

    • Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws

    • One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw

Top screw in this image was not a T6. I found that a T5 bit fit this one.

Alex Grayson - 返信

  • Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.

Is adhered to screw beneath, so lift firmly and slowly.

Andrew - 返信

  • Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.

I lost this screw! How important is it? Will it be okay with just the 3 previously removed screws?

Gerardo Jimenez - 返信

  • Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board.

  • It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.

  • Do not fold the board completely over, or crease the cables, as this may damage the battery.

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  • Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.

    • An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.

  • Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.

    • Removing this board will ensure that the battery remains disconnected throughout your repair, preventing your computer from accidentally powering on. It's also a good idea to take it out so it doesn't fall out unexpectedly.

WHy to remove battery contact board? Replace can happen without it also, right.

Behram Beldagli - 返信

You don’t want to work on a live system as you could damage parts

Dan -

How can I remove interposer I m not able to remove it

Raunak - 返信

  • Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board assembly:

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • One 3.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Four 2.7 mm T5 Torx screws

Hi,

found 4 rubber spacers on the 4 2,5mm screws

ddagonetroppo - 返信

Also found the rubber caps on the 4x2.7mm - didn't bother to replace the caps and didn't have any problems with them.

Rand Bell - 返信

  • Lift and remove the heat sink up off the logic board assembly.

  • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.

  • When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.

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  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector.

  • Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

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  • Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the iSight camera cable connector straight away from its socket on the logic board.

  • It is recommended to carefully push on both sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.

I found this connector to be very sticky - required more force than I was comfortable with but I managed to walk it out eventually.

Rand Bell - 返信

  • Move the iSight camera cable aside.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the right fan ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Hey! You skipped a step!

What about the cable (don't know what it does) that runs right across the fan, interfering with pulling the fan out.

It's still in place in Step 14, but here in Step 15 it's magically removed itself, and can be seen resting luxuriously on top of the Airport card.

How do we get that outta there?

Victor Gavenda - 返信

Still no change? I mean that cable doesn’t necessarily have to come off. Just a little irritating and in the way for the reinstall

Ivan Yong - 返信

  • Remove the three 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the right fan to the logic board assembly.

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  • Lift and remove the right fan out of the upper case.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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  • Remove the three 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the left fan to the logic board assembly.

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  • Lift and remove the left fan out of the upper case.

  • Make sure to pull the left fan straight away to simultaneously pull the left fan ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the edges of the I/O board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • It is recommended to carefully push on both sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.

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  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the keyboard backlight connector and the logic board.

  • Gently twist the flat end of a spudger upwards to pry the keyboard backlight connector up off its socket on the logic board.

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  • Grab the black pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

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  • Pry the headphone jack cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

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  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

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  • Repeat the previous procedure to disconnect the Trackpad ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

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  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector.

  • Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.

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  • Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector.

  • Gently pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

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  • Remove the nine 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board and MagSafe DC-in board to the upper case.

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  • Carefully grasp the corner of the logic board (opposite of the I/O ports) and lift the logic board out of the upper case.

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  • Gently push the edges of the MagSafe cable connector away from its socket on the logic board.

  • It is recommended "walk" the connector out of its socket. Simply push the top and bottom corners of the connector and carefully "walk it out" of its socket.

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  • Pull the MagSafe cable connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

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  • Logic board remains.

Removing worked fine........ Followed every step carefully.... Getting another board in will be another chapter.... And hopefully the machine will work again.

Thank you ifixit.......

ddagonetroppo - 返信

まとめ

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

19 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

Walter Galan

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2,891のガイドは作成済み

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NOTE: The logic boards you are placing into your Macbook Pro as a replacement probably are not coming from systems that are current and actively being used (they may have been on the shelf for a while)…more importantly they are almost certainly not coming from systems that were fully updated and running MacOS High Sierra. Realize that if you have updated your Macbook and are running High Sierra, your hard drive has been converted to the latest APFS Apple file system. In order for an older logic board to be able to read any of your APFS hard drive will require that the logic board gets the latest SMC/firmware updates. Without this you will not be able to boot from your hard drive. See how I was able to correct this dilemma here: Hard Drive/OS not recognized after logic board replacement

TimD - 返信

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